Try Our NEW Friction Band Pin Assortment $1795 #1028 These friction pins are used instead of screws to attach links and bands. 0.9 thickness to fit most hole diameters, 28 sizes from 6.5mm to 20mm - by 0.5 mm increments. Contains 84 pieces. Refills available. r WATCHBAND , r- LINK REMOVER ., r - BRACELET ., LINK REMOVING DOLDER PLIER
95 HOL-118.00 #PL-399 Only $1 0 Essential for removing pins from HOL-115.00 Adjust watchbands quickly and easily! metal link watch bands. Made of Another must for any bench. Our No more broken screwdrivers, bent glass-filled nylon, this unit includes an bracelet holder allows you to securely tweezers or cut fingers Perfect tool for extra spacer to accommodate thinner hold bracelets for removing screws or removing clip springs in link bracelets. The pusher pin is hardened pins. Four different grooves of varying watchbands. tool steel. Will not scratch or mar gold widths assure the perfect hold for FAST• EASY• SAFE TO USE! or silver. every bracelet. L------~ L ------~ L ------~ Vigor Economy Tweezers
All styles are stainless steel, non-magnetic tweezers. Available in the following popular styles: Item# Style# Description TW651 1 Regular points for general repairs TW652 2 Regular points (Tapered end) Only s21s each TW653 3 Fine points for general work TW653C 3C Extra fine points TW655 5 Super fine points for hair springs & micro-fine work TW657 7 Curved points with smooth tips
.-- . 1165 Medallion Drive • Saint Paul, MN 55120 Toll-Free Nationwide: 1-800-328-0205 \~ ...., Ess 1noer & Co. Local Fax: 612-452-4298. Toll-Free Fax: 1-800-548-9304 ~ ~ - 1ll 1E:J Inquires: 612-452-7180 VOLUME 18, NUMBER 7 JULY 1994 Introducing HOROLOGICAL The Novice Watchmaker 13
Official Publication of the American Watchrnakers-Clockmakers Institute
Wes Door 2 President's Message West Dean
Henry B. Fried 4 Questions & Answers College
Fred S. Burckhart 6 Rock Quarry 23 A Different Look!
Marshall F. Richmond 8 Pickle Barrel Weights and Measures ETA's Henry B. Fried 14 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches Remy Waelchli Part 9, Gaskets for Crystals & Bezels
Archie B. Perkins 18 Technically Watches Trains REC Antique Watch Restoration, Part CIII Instructors Fred S. B urckhart 24 Management Part 3 32
Wes Door 26 Shop Talk Balance Staff Work, Part 4 Newly John P. Kenyon 30 The Apprentice Clockmaker Pivot Hole Repair Elected Board John Kurdzionak 39 Affiliate Chapter Column Members How Did We Get From There to Here? 40 Henry B. Fried 40 Book Review American Pocket Watches Serial Number Grade Book, 1993 Prices
HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copy DEPARTMENTS righted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin Ask Huck 28 nati, Ohio 45211, for $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and Video Previews 36 $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Association News 38 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL Bulletin Board 41 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. News of the Trade 42 Classified Ads 44 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Dates to Remember Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE: (513) 661-3838, 48 Advertisers' Index 48 AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. *Fellows of the American Watchmakers Institute* Robert F. Bishop *Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels Harold J. Herman Milton C. Stevens Henry B. Fried Gerald G. Jaeger Marvin E. Whitney Josephine F. Hagans *Deceased
Executive and Editorial Offices President's Message AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 his past year (or, should I say, these past two years) 3700 Harrison Avenue have been very interesting for me. Being your presi Cincinnati, OH 45211 T Telephone: (513) 661-3838 dent has been exciting, inspiring and stimulating. I have Fax: (513) 661-3131 done my share of traveling around the country to visit AWI Technical Hotline: (513) 661-4636 ... guilds, conventions, seminars, conclaves, etc., and have Milton C. Stevens: Editor enjoyed every minute of these visits. Julie Westing Whaley: Associate Editor I have learned much from all of you and, as president, Diane M. DeVillez: Art & Production Director Donna Baas: Advertising Manager I tried to carry the AWI message of "updating" to our members. We have made changes in these last two years, and we will do the same in the future. You prob Sharon McManus: Circulation Manager ably have heard that "change is the name of the game," or "there is nothing more Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator permanent than change." Any way we say it, it is true and we do need to continu ally move forward. At AWI we have recognized the need to help out our mem Technical Editors Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee bers with more and more seminars, conclaves, bench courses, and material sources. James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon We are increasing our "Project Extend" courses to help educate more of our Fred S. Burckhard! John A Nagle members, to fill the growing need caused by an increasing number of school David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter closings throughout the country. Joe Crooks Marshall R. Richmond The need for education exists also because of the erroneous belief (a while Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney back) that watchmakers were a thing of the past due to the new quartz era. I don't Henry B. Fried know about you, but we are so busy that we cannot keep up, even working many AWIOrficers extra hours each day. We turn down enough jobs to keep a full-time watchmaker Wes Door, CMW: President Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First Vice President busy. So, this year we have cut back and are open just three days a week, and we Charles Cleves: Second Vice President are still taking in more than we can handle but have more "closed" hours to finish Fred S. Burckhard!: Secretary our work. We hope this will help. There is just a lot of repair work out there and Marvin E. Whitney: CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer not enough good repair people to do the work. Hopefully this will change. So AWi Directors when someone asks if this is a good trade, I say, "Yes, it is," and I really do Robert F. Bishop, CMEW, FAWI believe it. James H. Broughton, CMEW, FAWI Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW As I said, I really enjoyed all the nice people I met during my two years as Gerhard Hutter, CMW president, and I will enjoy being a "has been" (I mean, "past president"). I will be Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Benjamin Matz, CMW on the board until my term ends, and will still function as a worker for AWI John A. Nagle during and after that period of time. Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAW! When you see or talk to those at AWI Central, treat them kindly, as they are Marshall F. Richmond, CMW James E. Williams, CC really the ones who make us look good. In other words, they are the ones who really "make us tick." Greg Hostetter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director You have a new president now. Joe Cerullo is a "good Joe," and I know he Tony Knorr: Research & Education Council Director Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate Past will do a great job for us. I just hope he will not make me look too bad by com President parison! Good luck, Joe.
Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Director James Lubic: Associate Executive Director David LaFleche: Administrative Director Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited with out written permission from the American Watcbmakers-Clocl,makers Institute. Copyright ON THE FRONT: A sunset taken in Sanibel Island, Florida by Mark A. Krueger © 1994 by the American Watchmakers Clockmakers Institute. of Hamburg, New York.
2 Horological Times/July 1994 BECAUSE YOU WORK ROUND-T E CLO K IT'S ONLY Fl TING THAT MAXELL GIVES YO
Buy 100 Maxell watch batteries and we'll give you two C-90 audio tapes. ~ ~ At. Maxed, we know that keeping people up-to.the-millJte is a noo-stop - ""' jbb. And if it's your fob, yoo probably alraady know that Maxell makes the - - most reliable watch batteries on the market today. Now, when you ~B"e1t. buy 100 of our batteries, you'll receive two of our profeSsional qlJafity - ~~ 90..minute BUdlo tapes. It's our way of provirYJ that Maxal's reputation fur ~ superior workmanship applies to aft of our other productS as well. It's also ·- - ~ If it runs on batteries, our l:tlanks fur keeping your ~ rlJIJl1itlg witti the best: Maxell. ~ it runs on Maxell.
To order, cal l your Maxell distributor today. Offer subject to availabilit y, Maxell Corporation of America. 22-08 Route 208, Fair Lawn, NJ 07410. Call 1-800-533-2836. [In NJ : 201-794-5900] Questions & Answers
By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC
I am seeking help in identifying a gold pocket It has a three-jaw chuck made by "Morse Twist Drill & • watch (see Figures 1 and 2). On the case is in- Machine Co." New Bedford, MA, Pat Sept 6, 1864. The bed has s ed: Echappen d'ancre, Balancia Compense, two "V' ways of cast iron. The legs are brass with tapered steel POITEVIV FABRICANT, No. 21791. arbor and bearing, white metal pulley and adjustable thrust bear Seth Harvey, Falmouth, MA ing at the back end. The tails stock frame is brass with steel ad justable dead center. The center rest is made of steel and brass. I remember observing a watch by this unlisted There are no other markings on the lathe anywhere. Legs are A • maker as POINTEVIN FABRICANT, which was twelve inches apart. Joe Kunkler, Vista, CA probably an ebauche by Lecoultre. It had a twin train and flying seconds bit--c. 1880. This one is from about 1890. The only close reference to such a company would A • be a Morse of the early part of the 19th century Here is a photo of the jeweler's lathe I asked you who did make machinery in Cambridgeport and in Worces Q • about in Brea, CA (see Figure 3 on page 34). I'd ter. The lathe doesn't appear to have been used in watch like to know more about it: who made it and when, is it mass making, as it is a little crude for such work. It would date produced, etc.? from the 1850-60 period. Continued on page 34.
Figure 1 Figure 2 4 Horological Times/July 1994 New "Easy Snap" Case Opener for Snap-Back Watches
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Horological Times/July 1994 5 Rock Quarry et tu
A Different Look!
By Fred S. Burckhardt
Every now and then, we all get into a rut and become we're talking like a half roll of wallpaper and about a pint rather lethargic and insensitive to things happening around of paint. Not to be discouraged, I went to the shop the us. If this should happen, you must take immediate action next morning and looked around. I could visualize what a before you start to wish you had entered a different type difference this would make. First I would have to get rid of work, such as being a brain surgeon or a bartender. of all the clocks so there would be room for my new deco I must admit, I was falling into the trap described rations. As there wasn't much room, instead of using large above, but fortunately I was able to see the error of my animal heads, I found some dead squirrels, armadillos, ways before it was too late. When I reached the point where possums and turtles, and mounted their heads on the walls. I even lost interest in my favorite pastime, which is pull To give them a final touch, I circled each one with some ing wings off of flies, I knew changes had to be made. used watch batteries. It all came about when we went out to dinner at a new The more I decorated, the more my outlook changed restaurant in town called Road Kill Bistro. I don't nor from negative to positive. After the walls were finished, I mally frequent a high-class place like this, but I felt it was ran the vacuum cleaner over the rug. To my surprise, the necessary in order to get into a new frame of mind. As rug was a beautiful blue color. I remembered that's what it soon as we walked in, I knew this was my kind of place. was when I first moved in. I should have cleaned it more often. The walls were covered with old license plates, rusty farm When I finished, I sat and looked around. I sensed implements, broken tools, ice tongs, and an assortment of there was still something needed to top things off. It came animal heads. I assumed the animal heads were stuffed, to me in a flash. I gathered all the old tweezers and other but there were a lot of flies buzzing around. tools and hung them around the empty spots. Talk about It was during dinner that I received a sign. It was as if class- this was it. the heavens opened and showered me with divine inspira It wasn't long before the customers remarked about tion. I was wrong. The guy at the next table was drinking the new decorations. Many were moved to reverence as a beer and got choked. It went all over my new jacket (and they said, "My God!" Believe me, it was very touching to it wasn't even paid for yet). Anyway, I did come up with a hear the reaction from those who appreciated such an art bright idea, as it was then I realized my problem stemmed ful display. It wouldn't surprise me if pictures of the shop from my surroundings, which were dull and lifeless. What appeared in some of the top decorating magazines. Who I needed was to decorate my shop! knows, maybe the Smithsonian will want to copy it for a You must understand, when I say decorate my shop, display in Washington? 0
700 Precison State '@ Crystal Cutting Co. Street "For All Your Watch Crystal Needs " -~-@v&j£ SAME DAY SERVICE Quincy SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK IL Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter Gem City College 62301 All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience LOWEST PRICES IN THE COUNTRY Where Time Can Equal Money Reference & Price List on Request • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) Ship To: PRECISION CRYSTAL CUTTING CO. •Engraving • Jewelry Store 23944 Eureka Suite 106 Taylor, MI 48180 222- (313) 287-3480 Fax (313) 374-2927 (24 hours) • Clock Repair Management 0391
6 Horological Times/July 1994 • • es1 For 15 years Barbara computerized drafting In the past, fellow BARBARA BLOODWORTH Bloodworth produced made it the wave of the employees have Draftsperson II precision drawings for future. Barbara success Eveready"' Watch Battery "commissioned" her Quality and Specifications Eveready® the old fash fully made the switch. to decorate their Cleveland, Ohio ioned way. She drew them At home, Barbara is mom motorcycles. by hand. Then came com to Belinda and Horace, Jr. puters! The speed, versa She enjoys classic movies, tility and flexibility of painting and calligraphy.
A look around Barbara plants. Jobs run the gamut Bloodworth's expertise, Bloodworth's workplace from battery housings and place speed, flexibility leaves little doubt that components to labels and and accuracy of design she has successfully left packaging. Often, rough among the "invisible" the drafting table behind. drafts and information benefits of each Aglowing screen, keypad received from one plant Eveready® wat~~. / and "cross hair mouse" will be shared with others battery produc/ / are now the tools of in its finished form. Ven her trade. dors receive exact draw _,,... Barbara's job is to create ings and specifications ,./"" precise drawings and for labels and packaging specifications from pre materials. liminary drawings and Computer capability, information received from combined with Barbara
EVEREADY®WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated manufacturing process, a high degree + EVEREAD'® ol technical ex pertise and people dedicated to making the difference. 1!;> 1991 Eveready®B attery Company, Inc. Horological Times/July 1994 7 Pickle Barrel Jewelry Crafting and Repair Weights and Measures
By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW
n working with watches, clocks and jewelry, we find Watch Mainsprings I ourselves dealing with many different weight and mea Watch mainsprings are measured in metric units, surement systems. Much of the measuring we do in watch dennison and inches, while clock mainsprings are mea and jewelry work uses the metric system. We also have sured in inches and metric units. The width and thickness watch movement sizes in US units and in European (Swiss) are measured in fractions of an inch, millimeters and frac lignes. Watch mainsprings are measured in metric units, tions of millimeters, while the length is measured in inches. US units, and dennison. The width and thickness of The most popular clock mainsprings have either a hole or jeweler's saw blades are measured in metric units, frac a loop end. There are other types of ends such as tongue, tions of inches and by the number of teeth per inch. Round open loop or pin ends. Pin ends are not encountered fre wire is measured by fractions of inches, millimeters, B&S quently while doing clock repair, although they are often Gauge, and Stubbs steel wire gauge. Drills are listed in found in clock mainspring charts. These less popular styles fractions of inches and by drill number. Watch crystals are can be ordered by description and specific measurements. generally measured in millimeters; round plastics have If a catalog lists them, they can be ordered by the stock another numbering system, but they are also listed by number in the catalog. metric measure. Fancy crystals usually are measured in Watch mainsprings are classified either as American metric units. The old VTF glass round crystals have an or Swiss. American watch mainsprings usually are listed other measuring system, and the crystal height usually is by the supplier's stock number followed by the American listed on the label in numbers from 1 to 8 as well. It is my watch size: 18 size on down to 22/0 size. American main understanding that these crystals are no longer available springs list the width and strength (thickness) using both in glass, so finding a glass crystal for a hunting case can dennison and millimeters; the length traditionally is given be difficult. Plastic crystals, however, are still readily avail in inches. The type of end on the mainspring is also a fac able in hunting thickness. An example of the difference in tor. Common ends found on American mainsprings in.elude crystal measurements is a GS PKH is 40.0mm in diameter double brace and hole, "T," brace and tongue and hole and a VTF that is 40.0mm in diameter is labeled 7 15/16 ends. over 15 7/8. So I use the metric measurements whenever Mainsprings for Swiss watches and others usually are possible. made with a tongue end. They usually are listed by the
c
Figure 1 Figure 2 8 Horological Times/July 1994 •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• : When you deserve the best, use the best tools! : • • • • BERGEON® from TWIN CITY • • Bergeon® Case Opener Bergeon® Case Wrench For Role~ oyster watch cases. For Ro/ex!' oyster watch cases.
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Horological Times/July 1994 9 supplier's stock number with dennison and metric units used to measure the watch bezel for crystal size. Although used to designate width and strength (thickness) while the this is a convenient and fast tool for closer accuracy, I length is usually expressed in inches. generally use the vernier caliper. It will still measure the Mainsprings with special ends usually are found in a crystal seat in the bezel, and is more convenient in mea special listing that gives the make and model number of suring square, rectangular, oval or any other fancy shape the movement it is designed to fit. Material catalogs usu with accuracy. In the past, when VTF crystals were avail ally identify parts by the watch manufacturer and calibre able and you purchased three crystals of the same num number. To select a mainspring for an unidentified move ber, they would vary slightly in outside diameter. If a cabi ment, I use micrometer calipers graduated in metric (see net was kept up from one number to the next, a snap fit Figures 1-a and 1-b) that will measure the width and thick glass crystal could almost always be found because if one ness to the l/lOOth of a millimeter. These can also be used of the three was too loose, one of the other two would fit to an advantage in checking the width and thickness of tightly enough to snap in. Today any round glass crystal the spring removed, as well as its replacement. Many with a given number will have the same outside diameter. American watches cannot be identified easily, so identi fying the mainspring by measuring it can save a lot of Spring Bars time in making a repair. Figures 1-a and 1-b show metric Spring bars are probably the easiest to fit. There are micrometer calipers that are good for measuring as close several gauges made to find the size quickly. Figure· 3 as l/lOOth of a millimeter, yet are large enough to mea shows a spring bar tool. This tool has a gauge to measure sure most anything we would need to measure in the watch the width between lugs, pin pushers for removing spring or jewelry field. Figure 1-c shows a vernier caliper gradu bars with drilled holes and a rounded blade for removing ated in both metric units and inches. Each millimeter is double shoulder and telescope spring bars. The gauges graduated in 1110 millimeter and each inch in 1/16 inch. measure the seven most popular sizes from 5/16" to 3/4" Most measurements I work with in either watch work or spring bars. If other sizes are encountered, a vernier cali jewelry work are in metric units, so the inch part of the per works well using the inside jaws and the inch gradua caliper is rarely used. Figure 1-d is a millimeter gauge tions. without the vernier scale; it is good for a quick way to Figure 4 shows four gauge tools. Figure 4-a shows a determine a measurement to the closest millimeter. When combination gauge to measure spring bars and American the vernier caliper is opened, a side protrudes from the watch sizes on one end and Swiss and other watch sizes end opposite the jaws (Figure 1-c point 1). This can be on the other. Figure 4-b and 4-c show both sides of the used as a depth gauge, which makes it all the more useful same gauge: 4-b shows American watch sizes, and 4-c when fitting stems, crowns and crystals. It is also useful shows lignes or Swiss or other watch sizes. in retrofitting quartz movements or doing case repairs or altering. Movement When there are no identification marks stamped any Crystals where on the plates of a watch, it is important to be able to GS furnishes a gauge, with the crystal number on one accurately gauge the size of the movement. If the move end and a millimeter scale on the other end, for fitting GS ment is round, the measurement is taken from the stem or Stella round, plastic crystals (Figure 2). This can be location directly across the widest section of the move-
Figure 3 Figure 4 10 Horological Times/July 1994 Are you using expensive, disposable air propellants to clean cases and dials? Zantech offers two money-saving solutions.
?:-·""\-~= -~, =====, r~ft 1V' '. '''V ''sE~- vr=~;;:-- --~~ tJ ~- -· :=,·-t"'~';=-,=====(1=·= , Kif - W~19-. C~ ,, __ , __ _. :AC.U - M'" ~y;~ ,., r;,, . Vacuuming watch cases has been the preferred cleaning method of watch factories throughout the world for many years. Zantech's case and dial vacuum system offers the same vacuuming capability at a price that any watchmaker can afford. The soft bristles of the vacuum brush loosen and vacuum dust and debris without scratching; especially suited for cleaning black dials. ' The compressor Is quiet and compact for use In a retail environment. Handy foot switch provides instant vacuuming power. Vacuuming is the preferred cleaning method for watch cases and dials. I~;uL. ~M -¥-rn&.9f?.R;g1~;9q;:;w:!:~~:! I (Call for information about multiple station systems)
The Zantech air pressure system Is an excellent non-contact method for removing dust and debris from delicate movements, as well as drying bracelets and jewelry after ultrasonic cleaning. The trigger action air gun exerts up to 40 PSI of continuous, clean, dry air at the press of a foot switch. The compressor is quiet and compact for use In a retail environment (the same quiet compressor as the vacuum system). Save money and the environment with this air pressure system.
Horological Times/July 1994 11 ment to the opposite edge. If the movement is an odd shape, register twelfths of a ligne, as a douzieme is 1112 of a one measurement is taken across the movement at the stem ligne. In some gauges of this kind, the inch is divided into location, and another measurement is made of the length tenths and hundredths, and in others the millimeter is of the movement. For round movement, for example, 10 adopted as the unit. Some are made with a double scale of 112 ligne is a very common measurement, while 6 3/4 x 8 millimeter-lignes, while others have millimeter-inches. ligne is a very common measurement for a lady's bracelet These gauges are still available according to the most re watch that is an odd shape. cent catalogs I have. The douzieme gauge is used by watch American-made watch movements are measured in makers for measuring thickness of movements and other the same manner, with the largest round movement being measurements where this type of instrument works best. 18 size and a typical smaller size round movement being In this era of quartz watches and the demand for move 8/0 size. Fancy-shaped American watches, rectangular or ment exchange or retrofitting, accurate measuring is oval, are measured only by width at the stem location to needed to understand how movement sizes are listed, and the opposite side. 2110 Elgin or Hamilton would be a typi to measure cases to find the best movement to fit them. cal measurement of this shape watch movement. Some Waltham watches, although American made, are measured Stems and Crowns using the ligne gauge. When fitting stems and crowns, measuring can play Figure 4-d shows a plastic gauge with American move an important role, as stems and crowns are all measured ment sizes on one side and Swiss movement sizes on the in metric units. The diameters, the square, the lengths all other side. Note that all these measuring tools have a hook are metric measurements, and the threads are also metric on the end where the calibrations begin. This allows you threads. Screw plates usually are available with twenty to hold the gauge tightly against the stem position for an four holes and twelve taps. The screw plate holes are slot accurate reading. All of these measuring tools were com ted to allow the use of a saw blade to saw out any screws plimentary gifts from watch and clock suppliers whose that happen to get broken in the slot when cutting threads. names have been blacked out because they have long since Stems and crowns, prior to the days of the quartz watch, gone out of business. Many such gauges still may be avail were usually found in tap numbers 7, 8 and 10, with 10 able; recently I saw some of them in a catalog. Like most being the most common. Many quartz watches use tap 11 everything else, what once was free is now sold. and tap 12. These can be determined easily by measuring Figure 5 shows a gauge that some catalogs list as a the thread with calipers having micrometer graduations, degree gauge, some list as a spring gauge, but it was given or by using a screw plate to thread the end of the stem in. to me as a "Douzieme gauge" by a retired craftsman sev With experience, much of this measuring can be done just eral years ago. Through Jim Lubic, the AWI Associate by eyeballing it. Executive Director, I found the information needed to tie There is much detail that can be put in writing that is this in with measuring watch movements by ligne. It is a not really necessary to make you a good craftsperson. Some measuring instrument consisting of two limbs hinged to of the old-time watchmakers could not read or write, yet gether with the point of attachment closer to one end. The they could turn a staff or stem that would fit and work. short end of the tool terminates in a pointer so that the size They could also set up an escapement with no knowledge of any object in the jaws is exaggerated on the scale. of angles. Education is necessary today, but is more prac Douzieme gauge only applies to those instruments that tical with much of the fat trimmed off. Most AWI courses are down to earth and are taught by experienced instruc tors. Much of the detail that this article has skipped can be found in published tables of comparison and conversion charts. I use a Best Fit Catalog BK 135, published in 1986, that gives eight pages of tables showing weight and mea suring systems and equivalents and conversions of many things we can use. The next article will be a continuation of this one per- taining to jewelry, metals, stones, etc. D
WATCHMAKER'S/JEWELERS LA THE PRAZI Designed for SUper PNC191on Work a~::J?CATAl.OG$100 / "."'"""" 0 ..... 800-a72-6500 Figure 5 12 Horological Times/July 1994 The Novice Watchmaker
By David Christianson and national horological associations, a means by which the nov ice can tap the brains of the "old timers." A third means is through It begins in school under the expert tutelage of your instruc continued reading, study and practice. Volumes have been writ tor: meticulous, detailed practice in the disassembly and reas ten about our craft-some excellent, some not so good--but all sembly of these miniature horological machines; repeated prac well worth your attention. You'll learn to separate the wheat from tice in the art of repairing these intricate devices to bring them the chaff after you've experimented and practiced what you've back to life. All the while, the ever-present instructor hovers about, read. ready to guide, prod and cajole, often seeing a problem with his This brings us now to this newly resurrected column, 'Tue practiced eye that your novice eyes have missed in the process, Novice Watchmaker." Through this column, I hope to bring you often reaching in with practiced hands to fine tune and adjust everyday, practical repair methods and procedures for the myriad with techniques that are yet a bit beyond your capabilities. projects that cross your bench on a regular basis. The intent is to Graduation comes and you proudly find yourself, with your make you, the novice, better equipped as you start your bench newly developed skills, sitting at your very own bench, ready to work, whether as an employee alone in a jewelry shop, as an plunge headfirst into the first batch of watch movements on your employee working with other watchmakers, or as a watchmaker own. Perhaps the first several go well. "No problems," you think. starting out in his own practice. I'll try to give you ways to im But it doesn't take long until a few of these watches return with prove the quality of your work as well as your speed. And I'll the little problems your instructor would have helped you through introduce you to procedures and skills that you may not have while you were in school. But now you're on your own. The been introduced to in school. guidance, suggestions and hints are no longer there. This will be one watchmaker's approach to daily watch re Given time, any of us with a decent horological education pairing spiced with other methods as well. This approach is gleaned can solve any of these problems. But now you are selling your from twenty years of bench practice and the early guidance of time. You don't have vast amounts of time to struggle through two excellent mentors. It is the result of years of personal study, these repairs. Your productivity, and thus your income, will suffer experimentation, and logic. It tends to be a more traditional ap with each departure from an efficient use of your time. proach with concessions made for speed, but without shortcuts In the early days of watchmaking, apprenticeships were the that would compromise quality. It is an approach from one who norm. Novices entering the trade would enter through an appren loves his craft and seeks to share it. ticeship, serve without pay, and learn in the master's shop over a The novice will see a different approach from what his initial period of years until he was deemed able enough to fly on his training has shown him. Even the master may learn a tip or two as own. Even up until the last decade or so, apprenticeships in watch we go along. It will be a column of interest to all who work in repairing were encouraged. In fact, some state licensing boards watch repair, iffor no other reason than to see how someone else recognized the advantages of an apprenticeship program and re approaches his daily work. quired service as an apprentice as a prerequisite to taking the state The method of presenting this information to you over the watchmaker's licensing examination. next number of months will be to begin with the case and band, During recent years, however, apprenticeships have become and work ourselves through the complete repair of a mechanical, hard to find, even though they are needed as much today as they jeweled lever wrist watch with autowind and calendar complica were in the past Unless a recent watch school graduate is finan tions, along with analog quartz repair. We will be looking at cur cially secure enough to spend a year working under a master rent repair methods, and at watches that are now coming into the without pay and is able to find a master willing to spend a good repair shop. share of his valuable time working with him, a viable apprentice For those of you who are skilled watchmakers, I heartily ship is not in the cards. Nowadays, it is extremely difficult, if not recommend taking on an apprentice. The work is tough but ex impossible, for most beginners to spend a year-and-a-half to two tremely worthwhile as you see your skills transferred to a new years in school and then another year-and-a-half or so in an ap generation. I've found the role as mentor or master to be quite prenticeship. The grants and loans available to college programs rewarding indeed. It has forced me to brush up on skills that have are not as readily available to watch school students. become lax. It has forced me to reexamine my own methods and, Recognizing the need for an apprenticeship and the near more importantly, it has forced me to justify them to apprentices impossibility for one, AWI has instituted Project Extend to give who learned only one way and are absolutely convinced that their the novice a chance at hands-on practice with experienced watch watch school instructor's method is the only way to go! makers and clockmakers one week at a time. This is a must for For those of you who are new to the trade, and seasoned the novice wanting to hone his skills and expand his knowledge. hands as well, I invite you to become my apprentice as we en Another important means to gaining skill and expertise is to at counter the common watch repair situations that are coming across tend and participate in your local watchmaker's guilds and state our benches now. 0
Horological Times/July 1994 13 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches Part 9, Gaskets for Crystals & Bezels This article will cover the use of gaskets to protect watch cases in the area of crystals and bezels. The subject will be covered this month and next.
By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, PAWi, FBHI, *FNAWCC
Gaskets have been used in watches since the late a workable barrier against dust, moisture and water. 1920s when Rolex and others employed them in the In watches with mineral and sapphire watch crys first wrist watches that claimed water resistance. At tals, gaskets of all types of cross-section are used. first gaskets were lead, then neoprene and rubber. Some cross-sections appear as I-beam, L-shaped. Later other synthetics were used, eliminating soft These are made of Teflon, rubber, and composition metal gasketing or brittle plastics that aged prema materials of various types of compressible synthet turely, especially in contact with chemicals used as ics that will retain their original forms after the com lubricants. pression is removed through numerous case open Gaskets are employed in many places in the mod ings and closings. ern, late 20th-century watches. In many quartz Pictured in Figures 65 and 66 are some shapes watches, the crown no longer contains the gasketing. of gaskets and their proper seatings in the case or Rather, it is often part of the hand-setting stem and bezel. When you're replacing the watch crystal and fits quite snugly into the case's stem pipe, effecting it requires the judicial use of a case or crystal press,
Type where the packing Type where the packing is set Type where the pack ing is set into inner cir is set into the case body onto outer circumference of the bezel cumference the bezel
Chamfer Chamfer Chamfer Shape
Chamfer
Installation position
Installation procedure
A B c D E
Figure 65. The gaskets shown in these illustrations of Citizen watch cases are typical of those found in the industry today. Columns A, B and C illustrate gaskets that are set into the case; column D shows gaskets that are fitted to the outer circumference of the bezel; column E shows gaskets that are fitted on the inner suiface of the bezel. Illustrations used with permission of Gene Kelton, Citizen Watch Company. 14 Horological Times/July 1994 Installation position
lnstlation procedure
Figure 66. Some different gasket shapes and their chamfered points of entry into the bezel or case are shown in this illustra tion of Citizen watch cases. select the correct diameter of the crystal press so that Gaskets that are used with crystals and top be it is fairly close to the diameter of the crystal. zels are made so that they supply resilience to the To prevent scratching the crystal or the bezel, sapphire, mineral or plastic crystals during heat ex place a piece of vinyl between the pusher and the pansion or contraction in cold, yet protect the watch crystal as pictured in Figure 67. Make certain that from invasions of unwanted, damaging elements. the gasket is firmly seated and has not been torn, They also provide a degree of protection to the crys but is stretched so that part has been squeezed out tals, especially the very expensive sapphire crystals, of the bezel seating. during extreme stresses when the case itself is being The watch crystal gasket is best left without any closed. This is especially true in those watch cases silicon lubrication, as this might discolor the dial, that are snap-back yet supply water-tightness to more crystal or the reflector. than 3ATM.
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Horological Times/July 1994 15 NEW ASSORTMENTS AT GREAT PRICES! Upper endpiece s~~~,
00~- Vinyl sheet GENUINE ILLINOIS MATERIAL ASSORTMENTS /// Overstock situations allow us to offer Genuine material at prices that are only a fraction of the list price. Take advantage, stock up while we are still overstocked.
1 dozen set levers - 18 to 4 size. 03-5000 ...... •...... •...... $15.95 30 assorted clutch levers - 16 to o size. Figure 67. A piece of vinyl prevents scratching the crystal. 03-5001 ...... ••.... •.•. •...... $9.95 30 assorted locking levers~ cams - 16 to 3/0 size. 03-5002 ...... ••••...... •...... •..•.•. ..•.. ..•. $9.95 Some cross-sections of crystal-bezel gaskets, 1 dozen assorted staffs for small pocket & pendant watches such as those used in Wittnauer and Longines mod - 12 to 3/0 size. els, are shown in Figure 68. 03-5003 ...... ••...... •...... •...... $14.75 2 dozen assorted escape pinions - 18 to o size. 03-5004 .•...•...... •.•...... •.•...... •.•.••..•... $15.95 Gaskets and Glue 2 dozen assorted fourth & fifth pinions - 18 too size. Seiko, too, uses some gaskets as well as plastic 03-5005 ...... •.•...... ••...... $15.95 glue. Scott Chu, Seiko's head technician, claims that 3 dozen assorted clicks - 18 too size. 03-5006 ...... $15.95 the glue they use to secure the watch crystal not only 1 dozen assorted hour wheels - 18 to o size. serves as a binder, but also becomes a resilient bar 03-5007 ...... $13.95 1 dozen assorted minute wheels - 18 to o size. rier to moisture, dust and water. When the glue be 03-5008 ...... $13.95 comes "fixed," it becomes a resilient solid in the 2 dozen assorted regular and keywind barrel arbors - 18 to absence of air. Thus when the fluid enters the nar O size. row confines between the crystal and the bezel, it 03-5009 ...... $15.95 2 dozen assorted winding pinions - 18 to o size. will solidify, but remain resilient to some extent. The 03-5010 ...... $15.95 excess, exposed to the oxygen in the air, will not 2 dozen assorted cannon pinions - 18 to O size. harden and thus can be wiped away easily. 03-5011 ...... $15.95 18 assorted regulators - 18 to O size. Other crystal glues, such as Zantech's liquid, seal 03-5012 ...... •...... •....••...... $18.95 and secure the crystal with a minute-long exposure 2 dozen assorted clutch pinions - 16 to o size. to ultraviolet light, or after about thirty seconds in 03-5013 ...... $15.95 1 dozen assorted motor barrel arbors - 18 to 12 size. direct sunlight. 03-5014 ...... $15.95 Crystal glues come in many types. Some harden 1 dozen assorted motor barrel arbor hubs - 18 to 12 size. in minutes. Others require a full day of curing be 03-5015 ...... $15.95 3 dozen assorted bridge screws - 18 too size. fore they become fully effective. Like some epoxies, 03-5016 ...... •...•...... •...... $17.95 the longer the curing time, the better the bond. 3 dozen assorted set wheels - 18 to o size. Epoxies adhere better to mineral glass than to 03-5017 ...... ······· .•...... •...... $9.95 2 dozen assorted flat train wheels without pinion - 18 to o plastics. size. At times old glue makes it difficult to remove a 03-5018 .. ··········•·········••·········•··············•········· $15.95 broken crystal. Some epoxies can be softened by soaking them in acetone. Most epoxies will soften when the object is immersed for a few minutes in boiling water. This then allows the remaining debris of broken crystal to be wiped away easily, or scooped up with the appointed tip of a pegwood stick. All traces of old glue, glass or plastic must be removed 3223 Yanceyville St., P.O. Box 21208 from a bezel if the new one is to provide a water Greensboro, N.C., 27420,USA tight seal. Phone: (910) 621-1936 The subject of gasket protection in the area of Fax Number: 1-800-537-4513 crystals and bezels will continue next month. D
16 Horological Times/July 1994 3 TYPES WITH REm:RSE ANGLED 3 TYPES
Figure 68. Shown here are cross-sections of Longines and Wittnauer types of crystal-bezel protective arrangements. Illus trations courtesy of Longines and Wittnauer Watch Co.
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Horological Times/July 1994 17 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CI/I Making Pallet Forks, Continued By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, MBHI ©1994 (All rights reserved by the author)
Many detached lever escapement watches have To better counterpoise this pallet fork, the fork a pallet fork that is counterpoised or balanced. This and its neck could have been thinned down more to was done to improve the position rate of the watch. reduce the weight of the fork end of the pallet fork. Many of the methods used to counterpoise pallet Also, the counterpoising arms could have been made forks left them with a very pleasing shape and fin longer and heavier to counterbalance the weight of ish. the fork end. Although this pallet fork is well finished, it is Styles of Counterpoised Pallet Forks not counterpoised satisfactorily. The purpose of Figure 1 shows two styles of counterpoised pal counterpoising is to compensate for the heaviest parts let forks. These pallet forks are from very high-grade of the pallet fork when the pallet fork is suspended watches. This is indicated by the finish on the pallet by its pivots on the jaws of a poising tool. Before forks. High-grade pallet forks usually have beveled, being counterpoised, the heaviest part is the fork, polished corners around the top side of the pallet and the next heaviest part is the arm holding the L fork, as shown in Figure 1, View B. The top side of pallet stone. Some counterpoising can be done by the pallet fork is given a flat polish. reducing the size and weight of the L-stone arm, and Figure 1, View A shows a pallet fork for a high leaving the R-stone arm more massive since this arm grade, single roller watch. This pallet fork is very is shorter than the L-stone arm. This part of the coun highly finished. The edges are polished as well as terpoising will usually equalize the weight of the two its top and bottom sides. The fork slot is rounded pallet arms, but will not take care of the heavy fork and polished, and the curve of the horns is also pol end. The fork end is counterpoised by reducing the ished. The top side of the fork neck is rounded and weight of the fork and its neck, and adding a coun polished. The belly of the pallet is beveled and pol terweight opposite the fork. ished. This pallet fork is not adequately counter When the pallet fork shown in Figure 1, View B poised, however. When this pallet fork is placed on is placed on the poising tool, the fork stands about the poising tool, the fork instantly falls to the bot 30° from a vertical, upright position. The L-stone tom. When motivated on the jaws of the tool, the side of the pallet is the heaviest point. Material pallet fork rocks back and forth very fast. This indi should be removed from the counterbalance arm cates that the fork end is still much too heavy. nearest the L-stone gradually until the fork is level
0
TOP BOTTOM Figure 1. Figure 2.
18 Horological Times/July 1994 with the po1smg tool jaws. When this has been indicates that the tail is too heavy and should be re achieved, the fork is considered counterpoised. When duced in weight. When the pallet fork was turned on the pallet fork is turned on the poising tool jaws, the the poising tool jaws and released, the pallet fork fork should rock back and forth very slowly if at all. rocked back and forth slowly. This indicates that you The faster the pallet fork rocks, the more out of bal would not need to remove much weight from the tail ance it will be. It would be desirable to have the pal to finish counterpoising the fork. Note how the long let fork completely poised like a balance wheel but, L-stone arm has been made slender to make it more due to its irregular shape, this cannot always be equal in weight to the short, massive R-stone arm of achieved easily. the pallet. Also note that the tail is attached to the The pallet fork shown in Figure 1, View B has a R-stone arm. This helps to make the weight of the guard pin that is held onto the fork with a screw and short R-stone arm more equal to the long L-stone is kept aligned on the fork with a steady pin. This arm. This is a beautiful, well-designed pallet fork style of guard pin was used on high-grade, hand-fin and tail. This pallet fork has conical shouldered piv ished watches. ots for cap jewels.
Pallet Fork with Attached Tail Fork and Tail Attached to Separate Pallet Figure 2 shows both sides of a very high-grade Figure 3 shows a different style of counterpoised pallet fork that is counterpoised. The counterpois pallet fork. This illustration shows both sides of the ing tail is attached to the pallet fork with a screw. A pallet fork. The fork and tail are one piece, and this shoulder above the thread on the pallet arbor acts as is attached to the pallet with the threaded pallet ar a steady pin for the counterpoising tail. This pallet bor. The fork is aligned on the pallet frame by the fork has a flat polished top with polished, beveled use of two steady pins. This is a beautifully designed corners. The bottom side of the pallet fork and its and finished pallet fork. The top is flat polished, and tail have a flat stoned finish. The guard pin is fas the corners of the top surface are beveled and pol tened to the fork with a screw and a steady pin. When ished. The bottom side of the fork and pallet are flat this pallet fork was placed on the poising tool jaws, ground. Figure 3, View A shows how the bottom side the fork went to a vertical, upright position, which of the fork has been thinned down at its end to re-
CHROOOS is devoted to the connoisseur, callee· tor, designer and creator of watches and clocks. It will cover watches and clocks from the past and present, and even venture into the future. Our worldwide editorial staff will continuously report on new designs and technical innovations, pro· files of prominent retailers, vintage and auction reports and highlight beautifully illustrated and described clocks and watches from the outstand ing collection of the American Clock & Watch Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, bringing the museum to the reader. You'll be proud to add CHROOOS to your library
Send to: Name D Check or money order enclosed D Charge my VISA or MasterCard Address ------Card No. ______Subscriptions Department City ______Srate ____ Z403 Champa Street • Denver, CO 80205 Expiration Date Zip Code---- Country D $15.00 - 1 year (4 issues ) Signature Foreign subscribers - add $8.00 (Required) Phone A portion of subscTiption money wilt be donated to the American Clock & Watch Museum. Horological Times/July 1994 19 duce weight. Also, View B shows how the long L a stone arm has been hollow ground to remove weight to poise the pallet arms. The guard pin is a brass pin frictioned into a block that is part of the fork. The block was formed by filing or milling the underside of the fork. This pallet fork has square shouldered pivots. When this pallet fork was placed on the pois ing tool, the fork pointed downward 45° from a level position, which indicates that the fork end is still too heavy and needs to be reduced in weight. The counterpoising tail should have been made heavier instead.
Two-Piece Pallet and Fork with Solid Guard Pin Figure 4 shows a two-piece, single roller pallet TOP BOTTOM fork that has a solid guard pin. This illustration shows three views of the pallet fork. The fork and Figure 3. tail are one piece, and this attaches to a separate pal let frame. The threaded pallet arbor and two steady pins hold the fork and tail to the pallet frame. The pallet arms have been poised by removing weight from the underside of the long L-stone arm. When this pallet fork was placed on the poising tool jaws, the fork went to a position that was level with the top of the poising tool jaws. This pallet fork has a flat polished top, and the corners are beveled and polished. The pivots are conical shouldered for cap jewels.
Other Pallet Fork Designs Figure 5 shows two other pallet fork designs. The design shown in View A has an unusually shaped tail on the fork. This pallet fork is beautifully finished TOP SIDE BOTTOM with a flat polished top and polished, beveled cor ners. The fork with its tail is one piece, and is at Figure 4. tached to the pallet with the pallet arbor and two steady pins. Material has been removed from the underside of the L-stone arm to poise the pallet. The guard pin is formed by filing it to shape as part of the fork. The pallet arbor has square shouldered piv ots. This pallet fork was very close in counterpoise. Figure 5, View B shows another unusual coun terpoised pallet fork. This pallet fork is for a single roller watch. The fork with its tail is one piece, which is attached to the pallet by the pallet arbor and two steady pins. The arbor has square shouldered pivots. The fork and tail have a flat polish, but the corners are not beveled. The hole in the tail is beveled and polished. The pallet is polished flat on top, and the corners are beveled and polished. When placed on the poising tool, the fork end was about 30° lower A B than level with the jaws, with the L-stone arm at the bottom. This indicates that the L-stone arm was the heavy spot of the pallet fork. No material has been Figure 5.
20 Horological Times/July 1994 removed from the underside of this arm to poise the of the stones and laps should have rounded corners pallet as was done on some of the other pallets. to form rounded surfaces. All of the pallet forks shown in Figures 1-5 are Figure 7, View B shows a side view of the pallet in my collection of pallet forks. They are all high fork holder on the saw table, with the edge of the to extra high-grade, and mostly are from high-grade pallet fork being worked on. With this method, you European handmade or hand-finished watches. would be able to grind and polish the edge of the work so it would be flat and square with the flat face Making a Guard Pin for a High-Grade Pallet Fork of the work. Figure 6 shows how a detachable guard pin is made and mounted onto a high-grade pallet fork. Beveling the Corner of a Pallet Fork View A shows an exploded view of how the guard Figure 8 shows a holder for the pallet fork for pin attaches to the bottom side of the pallet fork. use when beveling the corner of a pallet fork. This The guard pin is held with a screw, and is lined up with a steady pin. Figure 6, View B shows how a round, high car bon steel rod is filed down to form the material for the guard pin. The guard pin material is left attached to the rod. The rod serves as a handle during the making of the guard pin. The material should be filed to approximately the proper width and thickness. After this, a center line is scribed lengthwise of the width. Then, a center is spotted on the center line for drilling the screw hole. Then the screw hole is drilled and counter bored for the screw head. Figure 6, View C shows how the base of the guard pin is shaped and the material is thinned down for the dart section of the guard pin. Figure 6, View D shows how the dart is shaped and then removed from the rod. Figure 6, View E shows the finished guard pin ready to be attached to the fork. To fit the steady pin Figure 6. into the base of the guard pin, you would attach the guard pin to the bottom of the fork with its screw. Make sure the dart lines up correctly with the fork slot. Then, use the proper size drill through the steady pin hole in the fork to mark the center for the steady pin on the bottom of the guard pin base. Next, spot the center for the drill and drill the steady pin hole. The hole should be drilled about half way though the base of the guard pin. Then, make a steady pin and insert it into its hole in the base of the guard pin.
Finishing the Edges of Pallet Forks Figure 7 shows how the edges of pallet forks can be trimmed and finished on the lathe with grinding wheels and laps. View A shows a top view of the holder for the pallet fork. This holder is used on top of a saw table that fits into the T-rest holder. The pallet fork holder has two screws to clamp the jaw of the holder onto the pallet fork, and two longer screws are used to level the jaw. The grinding stone and laps should be hollowed out on their faces, as shown, to clear protruding sections of the pallet fork when the inner sections are being worked on. Some Figure 7. Horological Times/July 1994 21 method is used mainly for beveling the corner of straight sections of the pallet fork. It also can be used for curved sections, however. View A shows a top view of the holder, and View B shows a side view of the holder and the way it is used on top of the saw table. The jaws of this holder are sloped at a 30° A angle; however, the holder could be made at any desired angle.
Second Method of Beveling Corners of a Pallet Fork Another method that can be used for beveling the corners of a pallet fork is shown in Figure 9. In this case, you would use a flat type pallet fork holder and the edge of the grinding wheel or lap. View A shows a top view of the holder and a bevel being ground on a pallet arm. View B shows a side view of the holder being used on the saw table, and the way the work is presented to the edge of the grinding Figure 8. wheel or lap. When this method is used, the saw table must be lowered enough to place the work below the center of the grinding wheel or lap in order to make the bevel at the proper angle. The grinding wheel or lap should be large enough in diameter to prevent the bevel from having the appearance of being hol low ground. One disadvantage of using the edge of A the wheel is that the wheels and laps must be made the same diameter to avoid having to adjust the saw table up or down when you change from wheel to lap, or from lap to lap. When you change from a large lap to a smaller lap, the saw table would need to be raised in order to grind the same angle, or vice versa.
Shaping and Finishing Circular Sections of a Pallet Fork Figure 10 shows how to shape and finish the sur face around a hole in the tail of a pallet fork. View A shows how the fork and its tail can be held on ace ment brass for finishing the surface around a hole. Figure 9. This method of holding the fork can be used for bor ing out the hole to size in the preliminary steps of shaping the fork and tail. Figure 10, View B shows how a graver can be used to cut the bevel around the hole in the tail. Then, a lap made from a steel rod is used with oilstone paste to grind the surface. Next, a lap made from brass rod is used with alumina paste to smooth the sur face, and the surface is finally polished with a box wood lap and diamantine or Linde A. View C shows a lap being used to finish the surface around the hole in the pallet fork tail. Note: The laps should be shaped to match the bevel that was cut around the hole. A pivot polisher can be used to hold and oper ate the laps. Making pallet forks will continue next month. 0 Figure 10.
22 Horological Times/July 1994 West Dean Colleg...-..e- A Unique Educational Opportunity
The Edward James Foundation was fonned in 1964. It is an If the Advisory Committee so decides, a particularly able educational trust, registered as a charity, and is administered by a student may be invited to join the course for a second year to Board of Trustees. In creating the Trust, Edward James gave to extend his or her knowledge and experience, usually on a special the Foundation his house, West Dean Park, and some 6,
Horological Times/July 1994 23 Management Part3
By Fred S. Burckhardt
How Did You Spend Yesterday's 86,400 Seconds? ing to appear: the feeling that there's never enough time In The Effective Executive, Peter Drucker states, "Time to get everything done, stacks of paperwork that continue is a unique resource. You cannot rent, buy, hire or obtain to multiply, constant interruptions, blunted competence more time. Time is totally inelastic. No matter how high and, finally, loss of competence? If this is your problem, the demand, the supply will not go up. Yesterday's time is try a few simple rules: gone forever and will never come back. It is totally irre 1. Make a list of all the things that have to be done. placeable, without any substitute." List all the urgent and important things first. Remember, In the November 1983 issue of Jewelers' Circular just because something is important, doesn't necessarily Keystone magazine, the report of a study concerning the mean it is also urgent. number of hours and days spent at work by small busi 2. Look over the list and see if there are things that nessmen revealed the following information: can be handled by someone else. (A good manager gets 62% of the respondents work five days a week in their things done through others.) If it's something another can business. handle but doesn't know how, show them, or it will be 76% of the respondents spend more than nine hours a yours to do again the next time. day at work. 3. Schedule time to accomplish the items left on the 11 % of the respondents spend more than twelve hours list. If something doesn't get finished in the allotted time, a day at work. schedule it again the next day. If it's a big job, break it The figures seem to indicate that people in manage down into small tasks and do them one at a time. ment must spend more than the normal forty hours per 4. Put all small things that are not urgent together. week at work in order to be successful. On the other hand, When there are enough of them, do them all at once. maybe they should be used to indicate that the respon 5. Save some time for yourself! dents working eight or fewer hours a day know how to If a job will take a considerable amount of time with a manage their time more effectively! small return, does it need to be done at all? What if it were Ben Franklin said, "Time is money." This is true, yet cut? Can it be simplified, made less detailed or exhaus how much time do we waste each day during our daily work? tive? It may not even be as important as you originally A manager's time is valuable and expensive. If a manager thought. If it's not, forget it. loses one hour per day to disorder, it will cost the finn: The whole idea is to use your time to the best advan tage in order to become a more effective and efficient Annual Salary Yearly Drain manager. Let's say there are two managers. One is able to $100,000 $12,400 get all his work done in forty hours and never takes work 85,000 10,625 home. The other never seems to get work done and takes a 65,000 8,125 full briefcase home very day. Of course we are assuming 50,000 6,250 both have similar jobs with the same amount of work. 40,000 5,000 Without a doubt, the first manager is displaying both 35,000 4,375 efficiency and effectiveness, while the latter is displaying 25,000 3,125 neither. To be effective, a manager must do the right job, knowing what to do and when to do it. It's a matter of This yearly drain averages over 10% of the manager's salary! getting the right things done. An efficient manager is able to perform economically, with a minimum of waste, ex Make a Priority List pense and unnecessary effort. Why is it there are so many days when we can't seem Being effective and efficient means getting the right to get anything accomplished? Could it be because we are job done when it should be done, doing it in the right way becoming disorganized? Are there certain symptoms start- by investing your time for the greatest return. 24 Horological Times/July 1994 Avoid Time Wasters zines, as you already have everything from them that is of There are four things we will call wasters of time: interest to you.
Telephone. Mail. Don't put it aside. Go through it once following If you are lucky enough to have someone screen your these steps: calls, do so. Spend as little time as possible answering 1. Throw everything away that is of no value to you calls. If you have an answering machine, use it, and try to or your business. schedule a certain time of day to return calls. This will 2. If it needs to be forwarded to someone else, do it give you the advantage of making them as short as pos right away. For example, an answer to a special order item, sible, and you won't feel obligated to talk for as long as a watch repair estimate, or anything someone else can you would if you were accepting the call. Remember, if handle should be passed on. you tell a person you'll call back, be sure you do. It's not 3. If it is something that demands your immediate at only good manners, it's good business, and shows the per tention, do it right away so you can get it out of the way. son you are doing your job in an efficient manner. 4. File whatever needs to go into your files: invoices, statements, etc. The faster you get it into the file, the less Idle talk with customers and salesmen. chance it will have of getting mislaid, lost or thrown away It is important to treat your customers courteously. This by mistake. This will save time looking for it later. doesn't mean you have to waste time listening to stories 5. Toss circulars, brochures or catalogs that you feel about their grandchildren or gall bladder operation. Let are of no importance. your customers know you are busy, thank them for their You'll find a great deal of time can be saved if you business, and exit as soon as possible. Never let another handle your paperwork in this manner. customer wait while you are making small talk with some one else. Workaholic It's a good idea to have salesmen call to schedule an Why do some people become workaholics? appointment before coming in. A long-winded salesman 1. To avoid unpleasantness. Work becomes a conve making a cold call can just about ruin a whole day, espe nient escape from a poor marriage or anxiety-producing cially if you have your day planned as discussed earlier. If social functions. you start this practice, you'll find the salesmen will re 2. Inability to have fun and play freely. spect your wishes, and your planning by the day will be a 3. Fear of failure. Fear of not only losing the business, lot easier. but one's self respect. Because of this fear, the workaholic becomes reluctant to delegate, tries to control every facet Meetings. of the business, and spends endless hours on the job. In All meetings should be as short as possible. Don't hold time, he'll end up smothering himself, his employees and, one unless it is necessary. This may sound rather ridicu eventually, the business. lous, but many meetings are not much more than a waste 4. Need to feel in control. This type of workaholic of time. Use discretion when calling a meeting, say what honestly believes the business would fall apart if he were has to be said, and get it over with quickly. not around, or that he's the only one who can do the job. 5. Desire to be needed. If this desire is not met else Paperwork. where, such as by his family, the workaholic creates the A necessary evil in today's business. How many piles feeling that he is needed by his customers, that they would of magazines or other paperwork do you have sitting be lost if he were not there to take care of them. around, taking up space until you finally get tired oflook 6. Belief in myths such as "nothing comes easy" or ing at them and throw everything away? "the harder I work, the better we'll do." Unless you take care of your paperwork on a day-to Remember two things: Work smarter, not harder. And, day basis, you'll never be able to keep caught up. Try the if you think you'll be missed and the business will fall following to see if it will help the problem: apart when you're gone, fill a bowl with water. Stick your Magazines. If you subscribe to very many trade maga finger in it. Now pull it out as fast as you can. As long as it zines, you know by now that it's impossible to read every takes for the hole to fill back up with water is about as article in every magazine. Setting a magazine aside be long as you'll be missed! D cause one article catches your eye only means it will be added to "the pile," and you'll never look at it again. Try looking through magazines, cutting out the articles in which you are interested and placing them in a "reading folder." This way you can read them at your leisure, while you're having lunch, on a plane, etc. Get rid of the maga- Horological Times/July 1994 25 Shop Talk Balance Staff Work PART4
By Wes Door, CMW
Selecting a Staff Most American watch companies make staffs in Let's assume you are lucky and find the correct several pivot sizes. Sometimes we are lucky enough balance staff for your watch. At least, you think it is to find the exact size we want. If not, we have correct. You measured the shoulders shown in Fig choices. We can cut down the pivot to fit a jewel or, ure VII-A. The one pivot you measured seems OK. better still, we can fit a jewel with the proper larger The other one was broken off, so you assumed that hole to fit the staff pivot. both upper and lower pivots were the same. If your On many older watches, over a period of time, staff matches the one shown on the left, it is a single the balance pivots were polished to remove burs in roller type, a combination double roller, or a two stead of replacing the staff. This new reduced pivot piece double roller. You know this because it is de size would need a jewel with a smaller hole. If this signed with only one place for the roller to fit: it is the watch you are working on now, and you fit a must fit just under the hub. new staff, you will need a larger-sized jewel to bring Now look at the staff shown in Figure VII on the the watch back to its original shape. If, on the other right. It is designed to take a two-piece double roller hand, you polish the pivot down to match the small as indicated by the two shoulders. It is made to be jewel size, the watch is more likely to break again. fitted with a large roller table and a small (safety) Also, if both pivots were broken off of your old roller. You know this just by looking at this staff. staff, you could not measure the pivot size. So, you select the proper one. Let's say the one with An easy way of measuring the pivot size is to the two-piece double roller is the one you need. The place the new staff into the jewels as shown in Fig American material charts will list the watch size ure VII-A and see what happens. If the staff falls (which you can measure if you don't know), and also over, the pivots are way too big (and don't fit into the roller information. It will generally be abbrevi the jewels) or too small (and the walls of the bal ated as SR for single roller and DR for double roller. ance hole jewel will not keep them upright). The Also, the pivot sizes in metric will most often be loose staff should fit in the jewels without falling given. over. It should not bind, but should lean just a little-
A c ""
•• •• •• ,• • • .• ~ 0 0
Figure VII.
26 Horological Times/July 1994 maybe as much as 15°, but this depends on the grade too tight. It is safer to chuck up the staff and cut to of the watch. proper dimensions. If this is a very old watch and has had its share of repairs, then there is a good chance that the upper Stake the Staff and lower hole jewels are not the same size. So you Now you need to place the staff into the "die need to check both of the new balance staff pivots in plate" of the stake by selecting the smallest hole the jewels. possible that the roller side (lower side) of the staff will fit into without binding. Now put the balance Checking Jewels wheel in place on the balance staff as shown in Fig You also need to check the jewel for possible ure VII-B. Select two punches from your staking set: cracks. A cracked hole jewel could be the reason the a round and a flat one that will fit nicely over the staff fell over during the test. All cracked or broken hairspring shoulder. (See Figure VII-C.) jewels need to be replaced. A small crack going Start with the round punch; press it down onto across the center (or close to the center) of the hole the balance wheel. Now use your watchmaker's ham jewel could present a sharp area and would, in time, mer and tap on the end of the punch to start your damage a new balance staff pivot. You need to check rivet. Then change to the flat punch and repeat the the cap jewels for the same reason. The best way to tapping until the balance wheel is tight on the staff. check is to separate these two close-fitting jewels In the next article I will explain how to finish and have a good look. A crack in a cap jewel may the work, including truing and poising. D look like it's the hole jewel, and they both may be cracked. Besides, you need to clean the watch any way. You need to clean at least the jewels now while you are fitting the staff, as gummy jewels lead you to false assumptions.
Measuring the Staff So far you have selected a staff by measuring with your eyes, and made a pivot check by placing the new staff into the jewels. You could make one more eyeball check to see if your newly selected staff ,~------, is of the proper length. *ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL* Place the "loose" staff into the lower hole jewel, FOR GREAT SERVICE then put the balance bridge in place. You need to use ON ALL CROWNS, tweezers to line up the staff as you return the bal ance bridge to its fitted position. This is a little hard SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC to do, and some might suggest waiting until the bal CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, ance is fitted to the staff and then test it. If you have MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. a pocket watch size, it's quite easy and is a sure way to precheck end-shake and assure yourself of the CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES correct staff length. TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 The staff is the correct length and the pivot sizes FAX: 1-800-423-4256 are correct. Now you need to measure the balance seat on the new staff and compare it to the old one. Do the same measuring for the hairspring and the 'WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" roller table. Instead of actually measuring with a gauge, some may prefer to put the balance wheel in place and see how it fits. This is probably a good idea. You could check the hairspring shoulder and <~·~B !Zl the roller the same way. For the hairspring and the WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT roller, however, it is safer to measure with a gauge. SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! The hairspring brass collet will spread so easily that, if it were fitted to an oversized hairspring shoulder, 7 DAYS A WEEK! it could spread and crack before you realize it. Like wise, the roller shoulder is even more critical, as it NJ: 1-908-469-7200 is made of steel or brass and can be cracked if fitted ~------J Horological Times/July 1994 27 Ask Huck Clockmaking Bits About... Pinion Loose On Its Arbor Stop Works, Layout Techniques, Pendulum Charts By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI
Question: What method should be used to tighten a lantern pin involves removal of some other pieces from the arbor. ion on its arbor? My recommendation is that of precision fits and workman ship, and not to imply that an adhesive material is a substitute for Answer: Let's discuss this as a pinion with separated shrouds, as good judgment and skill. a wheel hub, or some other device that may be loose on its arbor. In many cases, the treatment is similar. Question: Why stop works? How should this mechanism be Suppose it's a lantern pinion with its outside shroud loose. I adjusted? unload the wires by pushing them out through the shroud with a long-nosed pliers. The hole-burr that has them locked in will usu Answer: Stop works may be used for various functions. A com ally permit this action. mon purpose is to limit the range of cord or chain in a Fusee Remove the shroud and, with a file, knurl the shroud area of driven timepiece. the arbor. Hold the file edge hard on the arbor as you roll the piece The function of stop works in some old American clocks is on a wood block-just a little burr is sufficient. to limit the range of spring tension. This is usually set up to stop Select a piece of pinion wire about two inches long, slip it the winding mechanism a tum or so before the spring reaches full through both shrouds, and slide the loose shroud into place. The wind. long piece of wire serves as an alignment indicator. I drive a shroud A Junghans ships clock I own limits the spring activity to in place with a piece of close-fitting brass tube available from a about twelve days of what would be about twenty-five days of hobby store. This may be an appropriate place to use one of the spring length. This gives a more constant power source to a watch Locktite products in clockmaking. like platform escapement. Reload the pinion wires and lock them in place. I touch the A careful look at the mechanism will usually imply the stop mouth of each shroud hole with a small three-sided punch; only a works' purpose. It is then set up accordingly. small amount of burr is needed to secure the wires. Wheel hubs may be treated in a similar manner, but may Question: How do you layout work when making clock parts? result in wheel wobble. Ifthe slack is minimal, this is suitable, but I'm interested in parts made by saw, file, lathe, and forming. a new hub ensures a true-running wheel. Various other components that are a press-fit on the arbor Answer: I usually make a dimensional drawing to scale. By draw may need to be tightened. Most Americar1 clock arbors are ap ing dimensions, it fixes my mind to the progressive steps and proximately cylindrical in form, and a long press to the center size. Thereafter, I work to measured dimensions, or to scribed region may wind up loose by the time it reaches the arbor center. lines drawn on the raw material. Coat the material with a Sharpie This is also true of pinions and wheel hubs. pen or any permanent marking pen that will write on metal. Make For the long press, it is helpful to place the arbor in a lathe the layout accurately, and saw or cut close to the lines for minimal and cut the arbor to a slight taper in the approach area. This can be file work. A sewing needle fitted into a small pin vise makes a done with a piece of abrasive paper. Now the hub, shroud, etc., is good scriber. a free fit until it approaches its final position. This technique as sures a tight fit Question: I have trouble bringing a clock to time when a suspen The great wheel hub of an American clock is an example of sion spring or rod is replaced. How do you cope with this? one that must be very tight and has a long press. When replacing this one, examine the arbor very carefully. Determine which end Answer: Count the train to determine the beat rate. Many books is best suited to press from. It's often easier to remove the arbor on watch or clock repair tell how to do this. If you have an old hook and approach from the inside end than to approach from the American clock, things are a bit different from a watch: the center winding end. wheel through the escapement is the determining train, even An American clock center pinion is another long press. It's though the center wheel is indirectly driven. usually best to approach from the rear end, even though it Once you have the beat rate, refer to a pendulum table. 28 Horological Times/July 1994 Estimate the pendulum length from approximately mid-range of ---HERMLE MOVEMENTS- the suspension spring to mid-range of the pendulum ball. This from gives a starting point. Make a trial run for a few hours and esti mate error per day. ~ufbrfunrf4 ©lurks, Jlnr. A comprehensive pendulum table will give length by beat 1715 Pearlvlew • Muscatine, IA 52761 Phone & FAX: (800) 258-5418 rate in US and metric units. It will also give the amount of length Technical Info: (319) 263-6759 change needed for one minute per day rate change. This gives Largest selection in US - over 60 different models. intelligence to the amount you move the pendulum ball. For ex Guaranteed lowest prices. ample, a 6()-beat regulator clock beats 3,600 times per hour, the Same day shipping, two year warranty. number you find by counting the train (sixty minutes times sixty Most models bronze bushed, milled ratchets. Factory fresh stock. seconds). I can custom match 21 different pendulum lengths. The pendulum table will tell you that about 0.054" (about Technical help from a practicing clockmaker - Life Member 1.372mm) length change will give a rate change of one minute of AWi. SASE free price list and Info. per twenty-four hours. Shorter pendulums require less change. For example, a 120-beat per minute (twice the beat rate of the YOU HAVE TRIED THEM ALL ... NOW TRY previous example) will change about four minutes per day with PLYMOUTH the same 0.054" change. WE ARE A FULL SERVICE MATERIAL SUPPLIER. If you have trouble finding a good pendulum chart, send a WE SPECIALIZE IN ROLEX PARTS, large SASE to AWI Central and ask for Huck's pendulum table. MATERIALS FOR QUARTZ WATCHES It's free to members. AND HARD-TO-FIND MATERIALS FOR AMERICAN BRACELET & POCKET WATCHES, If you have any questions, please write: CLOCK MATERIALS, & TOOLS. "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, SEND FOR A FREE SET OF CIRCULARS • P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 ••••••••••••••••••••• ••••••• PLYMOUTH WATCH MATERIAL CO., INC. 87 Nassau St., Room 909 New York, NY 10038 Telephone (212) 267-4441 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS LEATHER STRAP.BOOK Lowest prices on 6 popular calibers SAVE I 20 Pieces Assortment Only $19
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SMEA NWf: 1-800-536-7632 5962 Broadway Blvd. Garland., TX 75043 FAX: 1-800-536-7631 Horological Times/July 1994 29 The Apprentice Clockmaker Clock Movement Maintenance Unit Repairs Pivot Hole Repair By John P. Kenyon, CMC
ractically every clock that arrives at the shop for grinds away on the steel pivot, gradually causing it to wear. Then, Prepair has stopped. It is seldom that one is brought in for after the pivot surface becomes irregular and rough, the pressure periodic maintenance, in spite of our ominous warnings to the from the gear train incites the pivot to grind the bearing into an owners. One of the most common causes for stoppage is pivot egg-shaped hole, as illustrated in Figure 1. This situation will hole wear, which is usually associated with insufficient lubrica cause increased friction, and eventually result in pinion leaves tion. When this condition exists, :friction causes the pivot hole to and wheel teeth that jam instead of running smoothly. wear into an egg-shaped pattern. The wear brings about a change in the depthing of the wheels and pinions to such an extent that Where? the train stops, due to the improper meshing and binding of the Pivot hole wear is usually located at right angles to the line of teeth. A bushing can be used to correct the depthing, but now force, at the pinion end of the arbor. This is illustrated in Figure 2. we're talking about major surgery! Our aim is to restore the movement as close as possible to its When? original condition. With this in mind, there are several approved There is no precise rule for indicating when a pivot hole is in methods to repair pivot holes. Simple hand tools are designed need of repair. A rule of thumb is that a bushing should be in specifically for this task, and can be used to make an adequate stalled ifthe pivot hole wear is one-third or more of the size of the repair. Bushing machines are also available that can be used for pivot. Some clockmakers recommend bushing at the slightest quick and accurate restoration. The principle of both the hand sign of wear. As an apprentice, you will soon develop your own and the bushing machine methods is the same, and the outcome standard based on experience, taking into consideration the type can be satisfactory with either procedure, if done correctly. of movement, pivot hole location, pivot size, pivot condition, thick ness of the plates, and other factors. Why? Pivots must be free but not sloppy. A good way to check for Pivot hole wear is a viscous cycle. It is primarily the result of wear is to let down the mainspring so that there is no power on the grit from dust, dirt, brass fragments and other debris that has com gear train, then turn the first or second wheel back and forth and bined with oil in the pivot hole to form an abrasive compound. As watch for sloppiness in the gear train. When the wheels are turn the clock runs and the pivot rotates in the pivot hole, this grit ing in the direction of rotation, the pivots will be forced against becomes impregnated into the soft brass of the pivot hole and the wear surfaces in the elongated holes.
Line of Force Rotation Original Hole \ \, ----+----~ )\ "' + 0 \~ Direction of Wear
Figure 1: Pivot hole wear. Figure 2: Direction of pivot hole wear.
30 Horological Times/July 1994 Principle Many of the "old timers" repair pivot holes by opening the The principle of approved pivot hole repair is always the hole and inserting a solid plug, then redepthing and drilling a new same, even though it can be achieved through different techniques. pivot hole. Ifthis method is done correctly, the replacement hardly First, it is necessary to determine the extent of wear. This is illus can be detected. Modem techniques of bushing either by hand, trated in Figure 3A at (a). Next, determine the location of true bushing machine, or drill press also can be nearly undetectable, if center as illustrated in Figure 3B. Now, use a rat-tail file to extend done carefully. You can check over the different techniques in the the pivot hole an equal distance in the direction opposite from the catalogs. wear as illustrated in Figure 3C at (b ). Next use a drill, reamer, or a cutting broach to open the pivot hole from the inside of the plate Methods to Avoid to a size that is determined by the size of the pivot. Generally, on I am sure you have seen the irreversible damage done to French clocks this will be about three times the size of the pivot. plates by using a center punch to close pivot holes. This is botch OnAmerican clocks, it should be about twice the size of the pivot. ing in its worst form. It not only defaces the movement, but is a Factors to be considered here are the outside diameter of the bush very short-lived repair. Obviously, this method will provide a very ings in your assortment, the size of the pivot, the location of the small bearing surface that does not last long. worn hole in the train, and the thickness of the plate. These choices Another method to avoid is the "First Aid" type of bushing. can be simplified by using a pivot gauge, such as that which is With this method, a flat bushing is placed over the pivot, then available with the KWM system. attached to the outside of the plate with a sheet metal screw. You must be careful when opening the hole so that the cut The "screw in" bushing method-where the plate is drilled, ting tool is at right angles to the plate, or an oversized hole will threaded, and a bushing screwed into place without taking the result and the bushing will not fit tightly. Insert the bushing from movement apart-should also be avoided. It not only perma the inside of the plate. The fit should be snug enough so that a few nently defaces the plate, but permits brass chips to fall into the light taps with a small hammer will drive the bushing flush with movement to cause more problems. It also disregards wear or the inside of the plate. Be sure to protect the end of the bushing other damage on the pivot surface. when tapping. Now, check the pivot for fit. It should be loose Finally, keys, paper clips and other bizarre metal objects enough to allow a 5° incline of the pivot when resting in the pivot should not be soldered to a plate to hold a pivot in place. Some of hole. Finally, burnish the inside surface of the pivot hole with an you have seen examples of these shoddy repairs in my slide se oiled, smooth burnisher. Our single train American movement ries "Horological Horrors." does not have oil sinks at the pivot holes, but movements that do should be finished accordingly, to keep the movement as close as Conclusion possible to the original design. When pivot hole repair is done properly, the wheels and pin Do not try to drill or ream the hole without first enlarging ions are aligned so that friction in the gears and pinions is reduced with a round file the side opposite the wear. It is impossible to to a minimum and the movement is restored as close as possible drill, and very difficult to ream, a hole that has not been centered to original condition. If you develop good restoration technique as spelled out above. The likely results are illustrated in Figure as an apprentice, you can take pride in your work, and the work 3D. The new center would be located halfway between the cen manship will not come back to haunt you later. ter of the worn hole and true center, as illustrated at (c) and (d) Next time, we will continue with a study of measuring in- respectively. Some haphazard repair people feel this is close struments used in a clock shop. 0 enough. It's not! --e- Al"' a B c D
Figure 3: Pivot hole layout. Horological Times/July 1994 31 Scholastically S • The 1994 REC Meetings April 15-17, 1994 Cincinnati, Ohio By Arnold Van Tiem
As last year, the Research and Education Council McKinney (Ohio Valley Watchmaking School, Cincinnati, (REC) meetings were held two months before the Board OH); Frank Poye (Paris Junior College, Paris, TX); Arnold of Directors meeting because the guest speaker, Remy Van Tiem (Career Prep Center, Sterling Heights, MI); Waelchli, was scheduled to be in town in April. David Miskie (English Center, Miami, FL); Tony Knorr For those of you who are not familiar with the REC, it (North Seattle Community College, Seattle, WA); Tom is the branch of AWI dedicated to the training and educa Bransford and Ken Pell (Winter Park Adult Vocational tion of future horologists. To be a member of the REC, Center, Winter Park, FL); Wit Jarochowski (Oklahoma you must be a horology instructor from an AWI member State University, Okmulgee, OK); Toby Witherspoon school. If you are a horology instructor and want to be (Kilgore College, Kilgore, TX); and Jerry Jerue (State long to REC, please call AWI Central at (513) 661-3838. Technical Institute, Plainwell, MI). They will give you information on how your school can The REC meetings went well this year; in fact, during become an AWI member school. our stay there was an NAWCC MART at the nearby Draw This year there were thirteen instructors in attendance. bridge Inn in Fort Mitchell, KY. We moved our business It was nice to see these instructors and was unfortunate meeting to Friday evening so we could all attend the that more didn't attend. The REC Seminar/Bench Courses NAWCC MART early Friday morning. Many instructors keep the instructors up to date on new innovations in the purchased instructional books, tools and various field. The instructors then pass this information on to their horological items. It was a fun outing. students, the future horologists. The annual business meeting was held Friday evening The instructors in attendance at this year's meeting/ at AWI' s Project Extend. The meeting went very well. Last Bench Course were: Allen Linkey (Gem City College, year's minutes were approved, and discussion centered Quincy, IL); Jim Lubic (AWI instructor, Cincinnati, OH); on the three US schools that were chosen to attend the Jeff Broughton (AWI assistant instructor); Chuck Watchmaker Training Program in Switzerland. This is
New REC officers being sworn in by Jim Lubic (far right): REC instructors gather around Remy Waelchli as he dem Chuck McKinney, chairman; Ken Pell, vice chairman; and onstrates the Valjoux 7751. Toby Witherspoon, secretary. 32 Horological Times/July 1994 sponsored by the Swiss Watch Industry and administered through WOSTEP. In order to be approved, the schools had to have a watch curriculum with approximately 3,000 hours. The three instructors/schools are as follows: Tony Knorr (North Seattle Community College, Seattle, WA); Wit Jarochowski (Oklahoma State University, Okmulgee, OK); and Ken Pell (Winter Park Adult Vocational Center, Winter Park, FL). Congratulations to these fine instruc tors! They will fly to Switzerland to attend the train-the H trainer courses at WOSTEP and visit some of the Swiss ~eal ~harp ~eal watch factories. I'm sure they will have some interesting information to share with the rest of the REC instructors at next year's REC meetings. The REC then discussed the election results. The fol lowing officers were elected for the coming year: Chair man, Chuck McKinney; Vice Chairman, Ken Pell; Secre tary, Toby Witherspoon. Chuck McKinney volunteered for the Job List Committee, and Arnold Van Tiem volunteered for the Nominating Committee and the REC Horological Times Article Committee. The meeting proceeded, and it was good to hear that many watch schools are getting an influx of students en rolling into horology programs. In fact, a couple of in Time structors mentioned they have a waiting list because their Offer classes are filled. This is proof that the word is getting out. There is a need for good watchmakers and clockmakers, as you probably know. The average horolo gist is approaching retirement, making this an excellent Order "l 50" or more career choice with a bright future. There were other items discussed, but for the most part this ended the business assorted RENATA Batteries portion of the REC meeting. On Friday afternoon, Remy Waelchli, director of the and recieve a FREE Swiss ETA Training Center (ETA SA, Grenchen, Switzerland), began his program by giving us some background on the Quality Pocket Knife with a company. He is employed by ETA SA. ETA SA is a divi- special watch case opening blade. Education center
UNITED TOOL AND MATERIAL CO. SINCE 1918 535-16TH STREET, SUITE 840 DENVER, CO 80202-4243 REC Bench Course Participants: Left to right: Front row: PHONE: 303-629-6717 Jerry Jerue, Arnold Van Tiem, Frank Poye, Ken Pell, Wit Jarochowski, Jeff Broughton. Back row: Tony Knorr, TOLL FREE: 800-332-4158 David Miskie, Allen Linkey, Chuck McKinney, Toby Witherspoon, and Remy Waelchli, instructor.
Horological Times/July 1994 33 sion of the Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and justments needed so the calendar and chronograph functioned Watch Industries, Ltd. (SMH). ETA SA is the division that properly. What an enjoyable experience! develops and manufactures the watch movements and Once everyone completed these movements, Remy gave us parts. The entire SMH group employs about 14,000, while another new mechanical movement to work on: the ETA 2000, a the ETA division employs approximately 9,000. Remy also 20 Jewel Automatic Wmd-Date Model 8 3/4 Lign. ETA started mentioned some of the brand names that are part of the production in 1993. This was also a very nice movement to work SMH group: Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, on. Certina, Mido Hamilton, Pierre, Balman, Swatch, Flik Remy then talked about markings appearing on EfA move Flak, and Endura. ments. He explained thatnearthe movement caliber number, you Following the information about the company, Remy will also see a number and a letter (for example, 4A-ETA 2000). gave these interesting statistics: In 1992, the world watch The "4" means the movement was manufactured in 1994. The and clock production of both quartz and mechanical time "A" means that it was produced in the first semester, January pieces was 860 million. Of that number, the Swiss made June. If it were a 4B, this movement would have been manufac 155 million, or about 18%. Of the total dollar cost of the tured during the second semester, July-December 1994. Remy world production, Switzerland accounts for 50%, or about explained that by using this system, you can determine when a $5 billion (US dollars). Of all the countries in the world, watch was produced. He also mentioned that V-8 appears on most Hong Kong imports the largest number of watches from of the Swiss watch movements. This means that not only were all Switzerland; the US is second, and Italy third. the parts manufactured in Switzerland, the movement was as Remy also talked about the difference between a sembled there as well. Some of the low-grade ETA movements chablon and an ebauch. He said a chablon is a complete are assembled in other countries, but the parts (chablon) are made unassembled quartz watch movement, and an ebauch is in Switzerland. Watches not assembled in Switzerland will not an unassembled mechanical watch without the escapement. bear the V8 marking. He then talked about the quartz watch movements ETA is Remy completed Sunday courses at approximately 3:00 p.m., manufacturing, focusing on the regulating systems. Remy thus concluding our Bench Course session. Remy did an excel mentioned that the trimmer type regulators have been lent job instructing the repair and adjustment of the previously phased out on quartz watches due to problems. Trimmers mentioned watches. are affected by moisture and shock, which can change the On behalf of REC and AWI, I would like to thank Remy for timekeeping accuracy. So, on better quality watches, the his superb presentation and Bench Course. I would also like to inhibition system is being used. The inhibition system is a thank all of the REC instructors who attended this year's meetings. regulating system that is mechanically programmed into Please note the updated list on the following page of watch- the integrated circuit (IC). It can only slow down the fre making and clockmaking schools that belong to the REC. D quency from the quartz crystal. Therefore, the quartz crys Questions & Answers, Continued from page 4. tals used on the quartz watches must have a frequency I have searched through my many references on makers of greater than 32,768 Hz. In tum, the IC can be programmed machinery for watchmaking and related names to the industry, to adjust for the time regulation of the watch. There is and the maker of your device is not to be found among them. also electronic programming of the IC, called EPROM Neither is he listed among the patent holders or seekers of (Electrically Erasable Program Read Only Memories). This horological items or devices. Nor is a patent recorded to a Morse, system is also frequently used. near the date you mention, in any of my patent references related The meeting with Remy ended Friday afternoon. The to horology. I wish I could help further, but perhaps if you are Bench Courses were scheduled for Saturday and Sunday. interested, you might write to the county clerk of New Bedford On Saturday morning, Remy began the complicated and inquire of that company's history and background. D Mechanical Chronograph Bench Course. He gave each instructor an ETA 7751 mechanical movement to work on. These movements have the following functions: auto matic wind, small second, small 24-hour hand, day indi cator, month indicator, date hand, moon phases, chrono graph second recorder, 30-minute recorder, 12-hour re corder, hour hand and minute hands. It was such a plea sure to work on a high-grade, complicated movement. Each instructor completely disassembled the calendar, automatic wind and chronograph parts of the movement. Remy explained step by step how these mechanisms work By the end of the day, we had the movements about half way reassembled. On Sunday, we began final assembly of the movement. Once each movement was assembled, there were certain tests and ad- Figure 3 34 Horological Times/July 1994 R.E.C. Member Schools
ALABAMA Sterling Heights PENNSYLVANIA Mobile Career Preparation Center Johnstown Bishop State Community College 12200 15 Mile Road Hiram G. Andrews Center Southwest Campus Sterling Heights, MI 48312 Office of Rehabilitation 925 Dauphin Island Pkwy. Arnold Van Tiem, Horology Department 727 Goucher St. Mobile, AL 36693 (810) 825-2818 Johnstown, PA 15905 Stephen Lange, instructor Harry Hinzy, Horology Dept. (205) 479-7476, ext. 26 MINNESOTA (814) 255-8371 St. Paul fax: (814) 255-3406 CALIFORNIA St. Paul Technical College San Francisco 235 Marshall Ave. TEXAS City College of San Francisco St. Paul, MN 55104 Kilgore Mission Campus, Room 214 Woody Woodward, instructor Kilgore College 106 Bartlett Street (612) 221-1408 1100 Broadway San Francisco, CA 94110 Kilgore, TX 75662 Don Patterson, Watchmaking Class MISSISSIPPI Toby Witherspoon, Watchmaking Dept. (415) 550-4380 or (415) 550-4384 Ellisville (903) 984-8531, ext. 220 voice mail: (415) 731-0621 Jones County Jr. College (903) 983-8220 (office) Ellisville, MS 39437 COLORADO Elbert Lewis, instructor Paris Denver (601) 477-4075 Paris Junior College Emily Griffith Opportunity School Texas Institute of Jewelry Tech. 1250 Welton Street NEW YORK 2400 Clarksville St. Denver, CO 80204 Brooklyn Paris, TX 75460 Bob White, Mr. Elliot, Horology Dept. George Westinghouse Vocational-Technical Frank Poye, Horology Dept. (303) 572-8218 High School (903) 784-9361 105 Tech Place FLORIDA Brooklyn, NY 11201 WASHINGTON Winter Park James Reilly, instructor Seattle Winter Park Adult Vocational Center (718) 625-6130 North Seattle Community College Clock & Watch Repair School 9600 College Way N. 901 Webster Ave. Woodside Seattle, WA 98103 Winter Park, FL 32789 Jos. Bulova School of Watchmaking Tony Knorr, Horology Dept Tom Bransford, department head; Ken Pell, 40-24 62nd St. (206) 528-3806 (8 a.m. to 1 :30 p.m.) Robert Lowry, instructors Woodside, NY 11377 (407) 647-6366, ext. 278 Frank Shank, Warner Rupert, instructors Tacoma (718) 424-2929 Bates Technical College ILLINOIS 1101 S. Yakima Champaign OHIO Tacoma, WA 98405 Parkland College Cincinnati George Mitchell, Horology Dept. 2400 W. Bradley Ohio Valley Watchmaking Institute (22-month course) Champaign, IL 61821-1899 Horology Dept. (206) 596-1577 Bill Clary, mechanical technician 10600 Springfield Pike (217) 351-2288 Cincinnati, OH 45215 CANADA Chuck McKinney, instructor Quebec Quincy (513) 771-4800, ext. 224 The National Watchmaking School Gem City College 1725 Bou!. du Carmel School of Horology OKLAHOMA Trois-Rivieres, Quebec 7th and State Streets Okmulgee Canada G8Z 3R8 P.O. Box 179 Oklahoma State University/Okmulgee (819) 691-3366 Quincy, IL 62306 1801 E. 4th St. fax: (819) 379-6928 (217) 222-0391 Okmulgee, OK 74447-3901 Wit Jarochowski, Watch Repair SWITZERLAND MICHIGAN (918) 756-6211, ext. 266 Neuchatel Plainwell fax: (918) 756-1315 Watchmakers of Switzerland State Technical Inst. & Rehab. Ctr. Technical and Education Program (WOSTEP) Alber Drive Case Postale 118 Plainwell, MI 49080 2006 Neuchatel, Switzerland Jerry Jerue, instructor (038) 304-830 (616) 664-4461, ext. 251
Horological Times/July 1994 35 Video Previews
By Milt Stevens Rhone to become a Patek Philippe watch. While many of Geneva's traditional watch manufacturers AWI has expanded its efforts to bring videos relating to our have merged, Patek Philippe retains its independence as a fam trade to our members and for use by our members for presenta ily-owned company. Today, it is the last of the complete watch tions to church, fraternal and service club meetings. makers left in the city, guardians of Geneva's great tradition of Here are three videos we have recently previewed. All are horology. available for use by AWi members. Contact the audio visual li brary of AWI for details. THE SEVEN CRAFTS OF PAIEKPHILIPPE. Approximately 8 minutes. Produced for Patek Philippe, Geneva, Switzerland. 1RADIDON IS OUR FUTURE. Approximately 20 minutes. Suitable for horological meetings and for the public. Produced for Patek Philippe, Geneva, Switzerland. Suitable for This is an abbreviated version of Tradition Is Our Future, horological meetings and for the public. which runs about twenty minutes. In this tape, the seven manu The tradition of Patek Philippe is cleverly presented through facturing operations shown in the longer tape are featured in ab out this video when Antoine de Patek and his partner Adrien breviated format. The seven crafts shown include: Philippe step down from a portrait on the wall; each escorts the The Designer. The role of the designer is to give substance to viewer through the various operations of producing the modem objects that are still only ideas. As artists and craftsmen, acad Patek Philippe watch. emy-trained and versed in all the techniques, Patek Philippe de The Patek Philippe watchmaking company traces its origins signers make hundreds of preliminary sketches and dozens of to the association in 1839 of two Polish exiles who took refuge in final drawings before selecting the one that will take shape as a Geneva: Antoine de Patek and his friend, Fran9ois Czapek. new watch. During its six years, the partnership between Patek and The Watchmaker. Only a few watchmakers in the world, Czapek produced about 1, 120 watches. Those that survive testify driven by the passion for perfection, are capable of the extreme to the high standard of workmanship established by the new com meticulousness required to create a Patek Philippe movement, pany. In 1845, Czapek left the partnership, and Patek joined forces the living heart of each watch. with a French watchmaker of great talent, Adrien Philippe, in The Goldsmith. The word ''goldsmith'' denotes a host ofrare, ventor of the first reliable keyless winding and setting mecha specialized skills: jewelry maker, lapidary case maker,jewelsetter nism for watches. and polisher. The Patek Philippe goldsmith is a multiskilled spe The two men vowed to dedicate their lives to the creation of cialist who masters each technique and applies it in total accor ''the finest and most valuable watches." One hundred and fifty dance with craft traditions that are sometimes more than three years later, their resolve is still the driving force of the company centuries old. that bears their names: Patek Philippe. The Chainsmith. A Patek Philippe watch is a unique, refined Since its birth, Patek Philippe has become part of the eco jewel, down to the tiniest link of its bracelet, which is designed, nomic and cultural history of Geneva. The Patek Philippe build created and hand-woven by chainsmiths. The Patek Philippe ing, surmounted by its clock, has been a familiar landmark on chainsmiths are artists more than craftsmen, and still work en Geneva's left-bank lakefront since it was first erected, complete tirely by hand employing age-old techniques. with the latest hydro-electric machinery, in 1854---fifteen years The Engraver. Engraving on watch cases is far more exact after the foundation of the company. The building at 41 rue du ing that any other form of engraving on metal: each action here is Rhone houses the headquarters of Patek Philippe to this day. Ex reduced to its purest expression. The engravers work on plates of tended several times over the years, the building today comprises precious metal that are sometimes no more than a rnillirneterthick. the offices of the company's management, a vast ground-floor The Patek Philippe engravers, therefor, all have many years of shop-the retail showroom-as well as workshops for casing training and work experience, under the supervision of one of the up watch movements and for after-sales servicing. It is here that few master-engravers still practicing the profession today. the enamellers, engravers, jewel-setters, goldsmiths and The Enameller. An age-old art whose zenith was during the chainsmiths work to give the company its unique capability as a Renaissance, enameling today is a specialty practiced only by a complete watchmaker. few, increasingly rare specialists. Hardly any miniaturist The workshops in which the movements are made were trans enamellists remain, and in Geneva, they almost all work for Patek ferred in 1962 downriver to the Jonction area of Geneva, where Philippe. Patek Philippe is, in fact, the only watchmaker from the Rhone meets its tributary the Arve. In the engineering bu whom a pocketwatch can be ordered enamelled with the motif of reaux, laboratories and workshops of the Jonction building, the one's choice. mechanism of each timepiece undergoes its long development to The Lapidary. The watch is a jewel. But the master-lapidary emerge as the perfect movement. Then it is sent to the rue du has the ability to transform a precious jewel into a pure gem. Like
36 Horological Times/July 1994 Video Previews CASIO WATCH all Patek Philippe's craftsmen, the lapidaries have undergone PARTS lengthy training in the firm's concept of perfection. &ch day, the No Minimum Order Required ambition that presided over the founding of Patek Philippe comes closer to fulfilhnent: to make the most precious watches in the world. Kahen Enterprises Official Casio Distributor A CONVERSATION WITH HENRY: HENRYB. FRIED IN- 1ERVIEW. Interviewed by Robert A. Nelson. Approximately 1 hour 40 minutes. Produced by The American Watchmakers In + We carry ALL the parts stitute, filmed in June 1992. for ALL Casio Products! Robert Nelson skillfully employs the interview technique to draw the details of the life experiences of this internationally rec + Prompt, Courteous Service ognized horological authority. Henry Fried is a descendent of Polish immigrants; his father and grandfather were watchmakers + We accept MasterCard, Visa, in Poland. Henry's father immigrated to the United States and and American Express eventually settled in Brooklyn. When Henry was 13, his father died, leaving a widow and + Overnight Shipping Available six siblings. During the interview, Henry discusses his early train ing as a watchmaker, a student and apprentice in the horological centers of New York City. CALL TODAY TOLL FREE From here, the tape chronicles Henry Fried's experiences as an artist, teacher, author, consultant, athlete, international author (800) 418-2345 ity, inventor and contributor to horological associations. D
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Horological Times/July 1994 37 Association News
FLORIDA ing on May 10 in Cranford, NJ. They held a buy, sell, The Suncoast Guild of the Florida Watchmakers Associa swap session during the meeting. Members were encour tion held a Round Table Seminar on Sunday, June 26 in an aged to bring items to auction (so a small commission went effort to continue to provide members with the latest in to the association) or to donate (so the association received formation in the watch/clock industry. all the proceeds).
INDIANA NEW ZEALAND The Indianapolis Horological Association had at its most The "Tick Talk" newsletter of the New Zealand recent meeting a program titled "Tricks of the Trade," pre Horological Institute reports that members say more pocket sented by Gary Beckman of Indianapolis. Gary openly watch repairs are coming into their shops because cus shared many bits of helpful information and trade secrets tomers want to own "the real thing." that were once kept private by the harboring craftsman. The Annual General Meeting of the New Zealand His program was geared mostly toward jewelry, but also Horological Institute was held at 7:30 p.m. on Monday, included some watch and clock repair material. Gary at May 30 at the Wellington Workingman' s Club in tempted to show easier ways to do things that members Wellington. may have been doing the hard way for years. VIRGINIA MARYLAND The George McNeil Potomac Guild of the Horological May 21-22 was not only the weekend of the running of Association of Virginia is preparing to celebrate its 20th the Preakness, it was also when the Horological Associa anniversary this coming September. Plans are to combine tion of Maryland celebrated their tenth anniversary-an the group's fall seminar and the anniversary into one great event of nearly equal greatness! On May 21, two work celebration. Under the guidance of new guild president shops were presented: Clock Repairing, by AWI instruc Ray Thomas and chairman Skee Jenssen, a fine program tor John Nagel; and The Swiss Quartz Chronograph, by is being put together. One of the presenters will be David Dan Fenwick of the Swiss Watch Technical Center. Satur Todd of the Smithsonian Institution. He will give a talk on day night was one of levity, good food and door prizes. the Bond Clock, which was used in the early years of our During the evening event, Dennis Warner, one of the country when time was disseminated by telegraph. Mr. founders of the Horological Association of Maryland, pre Todd has made a working replica of this historical piece sented an overview of their history. that will be on display. A happy surprise was the attendance of Ralph Eckert who, although not fully recovered from illness, was able Book Review, Continued from page 40. to attend the celebration. Ralph, too, was instrumental in listed. with an extra eighty-seven pages of serial numbers and the formation of the association, and everyone was de grades. lighted to see him. The Rockford Watch Company didn't produce as many as On Sunday three programs were held: The Develop Elgin or Waltham, but Ehrhardt and Meggars supply twenty-four ment of the Karrusel Watch, by Henry B. Fried; Those pages of similar listings and values. Pesky Ailments that Drive Clock/Watchmakers Up the The Maiden Lane, twenty-four jewel model of the Seth Tho Wall, by Marvin E. Whitney; and The Psychology of Deal mas Watch Company, is still tops among collectors, and is valued ing with Comebacks, a New Approach, by Joseph Cerullo. between $1,800 and $2,000. A few ending pages list the products of South Bend, MASSACHUSETTS Studebaker, with three final pages providing a quick reference of The Massachusetts Watchmakers Association has selected ages by serial numbers of all fifteen companies included in this a new meeting place: Wes Parker's Restaurant, 296 Salem book, along with some other American watches such as Newark, Street, Reading MA. The group meets on Tuesday eve Dudley, Cornell, California, Ingersoll and Trenton. The serial pro nings, and a dinner is selected from a special meeting menu. duction dates of European watches included are Schaffhausen The association subsidizes the cost of the dinner, thus (IWV), Petek Philippe, Longines, Rolex, and Vacheron members enjoy a meal worth $17.50 for only $8. Constantin. This latest book by Ehrhardt and Meggars appears to be a NEW JERSEY compilation of most of the preceding books and, as such, should The Watchmakers' Association of New Jersey celebrated make a comprehensive reference of these more productive com its fifty-fifth year of service to members during its meet- panies in America's history of watchmaking. Henry B. Fried
38 Horological Times/July 1994 Affiliate Chapter Column How Did We Get From There to Here?
By John Kurdzionak
The views expressed are those of John Kurdzionak. Mr. cupation. Many watchmakers left the field entirely, and cer Kurdzionak is the editor of the Massachusetts Watchmakers tainly did not encourage others to enter the profession. Of Association newsletter; he has been the MWA delegate to the course, the number of watchmaking schools declined as the A WI Affiliate Chapter meeting for three years. supply of veterans declined, and because of a lack of interest in watchmaking by young people graduating from high One of the prime concerns of many affiliate chapters of school. AWI is the decline in membership they have experienced in Because the supply of trained watchmakers was so large the recent past. As an affiliate chapter delegate to the June at this time, not many people forecast what would happen to meeting of AWI for the past three years, I have heard many our numbers when these WW2 veterans reached retirement of the delegates express this concern to the members at those age. As the 1970s progressed, it became painfully apparent meetings. Many of these delegates were hoping to find meth what was going to happen as the number of watchmakers in ods by which this decline could be stopped and then reversed. this country declined precipitously. Many chapter members are concerned because they per At the same time, our profession was wracked by the ceive themselves to be members of a profession that has no largest and fastest change in watchmaking technology in our future. They are also concerned because the decrease in mem history. Watches became electronic devices, and the tradi bership has caused a number of tangible problems including tional watchmaker was now challenged by new technology chapter financial difficulties, low turnout to meetings, and a as he was approaching retirement. The watch industry of lack of guest speakers at those meetings (because good speak Switzerland almost went bankrupt during this period as it ers do not like speaking to an empty room). watched Asian countries move into what had been a Swiss Before suggesting any solutions, the background of the monopoly. These Asian countries became the dominant watch problem must be examined. How did we get to where we are producing nations of the world. today from where we were during the 1960s and 70s? At that Is it any wonder that membership in professional watch time, America had more than 40,000 watchmakers. A watch making associations declined? It is a wonder any even sur maker could be found in every town in this country that was vived. Thanks to the dedication of the remaining members large enough to support a jewelry store. Many of the owners of these associations, many of them did survive, though they of these jewelry stores were trained as watchmakers at the are much smaller than they were thirty years ago. end of World War II. The returning Gis were entitled to edu The watchmaker of today has survived because he has cational benefits, and many of them elected to study in one of been able to change along with the technology. He cannot the many watchmaking schools that existed at that time. The operate as he did thirty years ago. Those of us old enough to government encouraged returning veterans to study watch remember the profession at that time probably remember re making because it was considered critical to the nation's de placing countless balance staffs, jewels, mainsprings, etc. fense if we ever had to mount another war effort. Occasionally anAccutron or a Hamilton electric would come Unfortunately for our profession, watchmaking was of to the bench for a cell. Today cells dominate the work at the ten perceived as an entry level craft to enter the more lucra repair bench, and the replacement of a balance staff is only a tive field of jewelry sales and service. Many of those veter weekly or monthly occurrence. We cannot hope to go back ans who studied watchmaking went on to own or operate to our old ways at the bench, because those days are not ever retail jewelry stores. A number of watchmakers found their going to return. manual skills in demand in other industries. Many entered Why do we still try to operate our local and state watch the field of electronics. The watchmaker of that period who making associations the way we did thirty years ago? I don't repaired timepieces remained a low wage earner due to an know the answer to that question, but I know it is not pos oversupply of watchmakers. To increase his wages, he had to sible to continue our associations the way we did for so many leave the watch repair bench and change the focus of his oc- years. D
Horological Times/July 1994 39 1994 Election Results AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS
The tabulation of ballots in AWI's 1994 election for Board of Directors has resulted in the following candidates being elected to serve three-year terms: M.R. Buddy Carpenter, Tarboro, NC; Henry Frystak, Linden, NJ; Roland Iverson, Elgin, IL; Robert A. Nelson, Richfield, MN; Robert D. Porter, Florissant, MO.
Thanks to all the members who voted in this year's election! Our thanks also go out to the candidates for allowing their names to be placed in nomination. All of them were eminently qualified and have already contributed to the progress of the Institute. We look forward to utilizing their special talents as we strive to better the field of horology for the members of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.
MR. Buddy Carpenter Henry Frystak Roland Iverson Robert A. Nelson Robert D. Porter
Book Review
AMERICAN POCKET WATCHES SERIAL NUMBER number is included. Webb C. Ball requires six pages of move GRADE BOOK, 1993 PRICES, by Ehrhardt & Meggars. 8 1/2" ment pictures, but twelve more to list the types and values. These x 11", spiral bound, b&w copier pages. Pub. 1993 by Heart of include watches made for them by Hamilton, Record (Swiss), America Press @ $35.00 Hampden, Howard and Illinois and, as with all others, values are included. A new publication from the Ehrhardt-Meggars team is acom There are four pages of serial numbers, their factory origin, prehensi ve listing of the serialized production numbers on Ameri code Gewel, cases, original factory model, year of manufacture) can-made watches. The fifteen manufacturers represented are: and the markings peculiar to each group. These refer to their ad American Waltham Watch Co., Aurore, Ball, Elgin, Fredonia, justments, double or single part of a mixed production run and Hamilton, Hampden, Howard, Illinois, Independent, New York, which R.R. Standard was used. Peoria, Rockford, Seth Thomas, South Bend. There are sixty-three pages of detailed Elgin listings by se Produced for the serious collector and dealer of American rial number, grade, jewel count, sizes, description, and the pro made pocket watches, this edition has the usual illustrations of duction count of each run and the number of these "runs" for the basic models of each company. But there's more. Not only each model. does the book supply the serialized production numbers, their The Hamilton section includes military and chronometer grade, jewel count, and movement size, but also includes how timepieces. Like Elgin and Hamilton, the same serialized details these movements are marked with their model names. are included for the others. The Edward Howard, with wolf Each of the fifteen companies provide a list of their special toothed winding wheels and highly jeweled motor barrel, is val products. For example, the American Watch Company has a full ued at $8,000-12,000. page devoted to their repeating watches, chronographs and their Illinois probably had more individual names applied to its 1993 values. There is another page that details values depending individual models than any other American maker. This book on how these were cased. lists them all, and the margins contain handwritten details added The "diagrams" are the companies' catalog illustrations of right before press time. More than five hundred such items are each movement. Every company's production and date by serial Continued on page 38
40 Horological Times/July 1994 Bulletin Board
A. NEW REQUESTS about the St. Louis School of Watchmaking, which oper HAMILTON 999 PARTS LIST ated around the turn of the century. John Archuleta, Tokyo, Japan seeks parts list/information for a Hamilton calibre 998/999. Records show that this L.F. & W.W. CARTER CLOCK, BRISTOL, CT calibre was supplied to the Ball Watch Company of Cleve Jerry H. Brazil, San Antonio, TX writes: land, Ohio for their Railroad Watch. This was done during I have an L.F & W.W. Carter double dial shelf clock on the period 1940-1942, and our notes indicate that the es my bench for restoration, and am in need of a few parts. cape wheel is the same as Hamilton calibre 992B. Records The clock is a shelf model with 8" dials. It is very similar also indicate that there were 998 and 999 calibres made to item number#182 on page 65 of the Survey of Ameri for the Ball Company in 18 and 16 size, 17J, 19J, 21J and can Clocks, Calendar Clocks by Miller and Miller. I am 23J. What we seek are parts lists for these calibres if they missing the upper dial completely. The main problem is exist. that I'm missing the drive gears for the movement of the day of the week hand on the time movement. So far I've HIGH TIME CEILING CLOCK not been able to find a picture or description of this com Marvin Blasser, Dallas, TX is seeking any information plete movement, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. I've available about the High Time Ceiling Clock. This clock restored the time and strike weight driven movement, but projects the time onto the ceiling of the bedroom, and was /find no additional wheels or gears to drive the day of the marketed by one of the "upscale" catalog companies. week hand. By the way, I'm also missing this third hand.
MARSHALL 1133 DRAWER MATERIAL JUNGHANS B-09 INFORMATION ASSORTMENT Howard Partlo, Spring Hill, FL is seeking service infor Jon Horton writes that he has a Marshall 1133 drawer as mation for the Junghans B-09 clock. sortment: one drawer is marked Swiss Stems and contains bottles numbered from 1-180, a second drawer is marked MAKER AND DATE OF WOODEN CLOCK Swiss Staff and contains bottles numbered 1-180, and sev MOVEMENT eral drawers are marked "Hands" and contain bottles num bered 1-512. Mr. Horton is seeking the charts for these drawers that will identify the material each bottle contains.
B. RESPONSES DANAKER CLOCKS We have been advised by several members that this com pany has gone out of business. One reader indicated his last contact with them was in February 1980. If this infor mation is inaccurate, we would like to hear from you. Per haps someone has purchased the name?
VIGOR PEN PLATER #PM515 Paul Loftus, Lemont, PA is trying to determine the maker, Earl Babb, Grand Junction, CO has supplied a copy of the date of manufacture and type of wood used in the wooden instructions for using this plater as requested by Pete clock movement shown, and whether it was encased as a Derkotch, Bellmawr, NJ. wall or tall clock. A recommenoed bibliography would also be appreciated. C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED L&R STANDARD 2 WATCH TIMER AND MODEL 320 ULTRASONIC TANK Ken Setser, Potsdam, OH seeks schematics and operating instructions for the L&R Standard Watch Timer, and for the L&R model 320 Ultrasonic Tank.
ST. LOUIS WATCHMAKING SCHOOL Gene Bertram, Kirkwood, MO is seeking information
Horological Times/July 1994 41 News of the Trade
FRENCH WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION CENIBR of the Supervisory Board of the SDH and vice-chairman of the SELECTS ANEW CHAIRMAN Permanent Committee of the European Watch and Clock Indus The new board of directors of the French Professional Com try (Cornite Permanent de l'Horlogerie Europeenne). mittee to Develop the Watch and Clock Industry (Cornite Professionnel de Developpement de l'Horlogerie: CPDH), bet CITIZEN OFFERS PROFESSIONALDNER WATCHES ter known abroad as the French Watch and Clock Information The success of the Promaster series of sports watches, the Centre (Centre d'Information de L'Horlogerie Fran9aise: CIH), Aqualand series in particular, has prompted the Citizen Watch elected Mr. Michel Dalin as chairman (see Figure 1). Company to focus on divers with its 200 Meter Professional Diver. A graduate of the Institute of Political Studies in Paris, Mr. Of the four models, two (pictured in Figure 2) feature neo Dalin spent his entire career in the watch and clock industry, pri prene straps, while the other two feature two-tone stainless steel marily at the French Watch, Clock and Microtechnics Manufac and gold bracelets. Each of the 200 Meter Professional Diver turers Association (Chambre Fran9aise de l'Horlogerie et des watches are 200 meter water-resistant and feature day and date at Microtechniques: CFHM), a professional federation that includes 3:00, luminous hands and markers for easy underwater reading, most French watch and clock manufacturers, either directly or one-way rotating elapsed time bezel, five-year power cell and a through their branch associations. He was general delegate until battery life indicator. The series retails for $195 to $295. 1978, and once again from March 1991 until December 1993 when he was succeeded by Mr. Patrice Besnard, who was previ ously general secretary. The CPDH brought about the foundation of the Watch and Clock Developement Company (Sociere de Developpement de l'Horlogerie: SDH), a financial company founded in 1969 that has holdings in twenty-five of the sector's companies. Mr. Dalin is chairman of its board and has just had his mandate renewed for another three years. A member of the board of directors of the Watch and Clock Industry Technical Centre (Centre Technique de l'Industrie Horlogere: Cetehor) since 1973, Mr. Dalin was its managing di rector from 1989 until 1991. In this role, he helped modernize and expand the activities of the Centre, now directed by Mr. Michel Froelicher. Mr. Dalin thus succeeds Mr. Guy Cheval, who had been chairman of the CPDH since 1982, and who remains chairman
Figure 2. Two of Citizen's new 200 Meter Professional Diver watches feature neoprene straps.
TIMESAVERS ACQUIRES CLOCK DIVISION OF JEFFERSON ELECTRIC COMPANY Tnnesavers of Scottsdale, Arizona is pleased to announce the acquisition of the clock division of Jefferson Electric Com pany, a subsidiary ofMagneTek. Under the banner of the Golden Hour Clock Company, Tnnesavers' owners, Marsha and Steven Berger, will manufac ture and sell the popular Golden Hour Clock and its replacement components from their Scottsdale location. This facility currently houses Tnnesavers, an international mail order firm that distrib utes clock repair material and supplies. Figure 1. Mr. Michel Dalin, chairman, French Watch and For further information, contact Timesavers at 7745 E. Clock Information Centre Redfield Rd. #500, Scottsdale, AZ 85260, or call (602) 483-3711.
42 Horological Times/July 1994 News of the Trade
ASSORTMENTS QUARTZ HANDS This new 124 piece hand assortment includes alpha, baton, pointed, luminous, and sweep second style hands. Bmm, lOmm, llmm, 11.Smm, and 13mm in length. Available in Yellow, White, and Black. #MM-HAN-124 { r ~) $39.!IS Eat:h :::f:vaHable!! SEIKO YELLOW CROWNS
Figure 3. The "Trailmaster" with Lumibrite by Lorus. 24 of the most popular Seiko yellow crowns. Refills available! NEW LORDS LUMIBRITE WATCHES ·~~.BB iijj Lorus introduces a new series of sports watches-Lorus #CRN-SEl-24 ,PU_,, ~ Lumibrite-featuring special glow-in-the-dark watch faces that shine brightly for hours. Lorus Lumibrite watches, which have striking green-toned GUCCI STYLE DOMED CRYSTALS faces when glowing, operate with no extra batteries or buttons to Domed mineral glass crystals are now avail push. They shine brightly for three to five hours and are recharged able in all popular sizes fron 19.0mm to by just two minutes of sunlight or ten minutes of exposure to ordinary fluorescent light. 31.0mm. Order separeately or in the 24 piece Three models are included in this new Lorus line. Shown in assortment and save! Figure 3 is the ''Trailmaster," which features a slide-on compass for outdoor adventures. Easy to wear with a rugged black nylon band, the ''Trailmaster" is water-resistant to 50 meters. #CRY-DMG-24
ESSLINGER & COMPANY INTRODUCES HOLIDAY MAILER Esslinger & Company has introduced a new, exciting holi day advertising mailer for interested retailers. Unlike any other mailers being offered this year, this advertising tool will give re tailers the exposure they need at the right price and time of year. This piece contains a good mix of new merchandise with popular price points, and will be provided free with a minimum purchase. Call Jacque at 1-800-328-0205 for further information or for a sample mailer.
Horological Times/July 1994 43 Classifieds
REGULATIONS AND RATES
Ads are payable in advance $.70 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance {e.g. September issue closes for copy on August 1st).
HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131
, FACTORY-CERTIFIED •• :'PREEACCUTRON REPAIR · e • ROLEX SERVICE Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) Ii ii Master Watchmaker, 45 years experience. Will repair one free and keep the other Certified Rolex specialist. Only genuine ma SPACE VIEWS-$150 terials used. Service includes case & brace George Hite, 246 Del Pond Drive, HAMil..TONELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR. let refinishing & waterproofing of case. High Canton, MA 02021 , (617) 821-5288 Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 grade watches & clocks are our specialty. Ask for Alvin or Marcus; (203) 792-4539. and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy ~ ~ Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabil DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, ia. -- Rene Rondeau, P. 0. Box 391, Corte Madera, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (414) 924-8423. MELHEFNERTRADESHOP Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit Professional watchmaker repairs mechanical, the quartz movement. Send your works to: Accutron tuning fork, and analog quartz watch KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR es. Request price list. Expert retrofitting. P.O. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral Box 419, Dadville, AL 36853; (205) 825-4559. or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, phone/fax (910) 889-0148. rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. REPIVOTING-balance staffs, pinions, arbors L.l THE ACCUTRON MAN for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER. I have 40 years original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer A "Cracker Jack" when it experience in restoring and making parts for standards. Juliusz Dabrowski, J.D. Watchworks comes to repairing Accutron Watches! platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, pin Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA ions, repivoting, hairsprings,jewels, etc. JOHN 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397- BARRS, 3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, WA 0601. Let me "Spaceview It" according to 98136; (206) 935-0596. Bulova Factory Standards!
Not anxious to spend money >·> ..... then trade TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR in your model 214 & 218 junker watches BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON MURPHY'S for cash credit against your repair bill! HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call (814) 692-2285. CRYSTAL SERVICE Why not give me a call and ..... FAST -- QUALITY WORK LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS! • 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. CLOCK WHEEL AND • Complete crystal fitting service George Fruge' for new and old wrist and pocket 251 Greenwich A venue PINION CUTTING watches. Greenwich. Ct, 06830 Fast service -- Write for free Bro CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST Tel: 203-661-0056 chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 FAX or PHONE (209) 576-8865 Fax: 203-661-0703 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. 986-7698. MODESTO, CA 95355
44 Horological Times/July 1994 Classifieds r------, I QUARTZ CONVERSIONS BHHMAHHE! PYCCKHE qACLI.! DIAL WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? I NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? DIMAS TRADING COMPANY is pleased I REFINISHING SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA to announce to the United States watch trade I , FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT that w~ have been appointed sole importers 2 · AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. of several of the top Russian watch and I 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. clock factories. The pro~ucts are very high SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. I • quality and high value. Full warranty, .. 4 . ALFONSO ZAMORA I . ~;. ; - 280 PRESIDIO PLACE repair, and parts are supported by us. I BUFFALO, NY 14221 Retail, wholesale, and representative I BEFORE AFTER (716) 633-6138 inquiries are welcome. Quartz Conversions l Diamond Dial Conversions Samples: Mechanical wristwatch alarms, I Emblem & Name Personalization gold plated: $35; Mechanical chronograph CLOCK WHEEL & PINION CUTTING I Write for Brochures watches (chrome or gold plated) :$100; STARRETT COLLETS INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Quartz watches: $20; Automatic watches: I QUICK SERVICE 58 W. SUGARTREE $35; Quartz alarm clock: $6; Mechanical I SEND FOR PRICE LIST. MC & VISA P.O. BOX970 alarm clock: $12. We also stock Jim DuBois, 330 Rte. 101 I WILMINGTON, OH 45177 mechanical, double-boxed ships' Amherst, NH 03031 (603) 673-3645 I (513)382-4535 chronometers. Write, call or fax for color L------_J catalog. CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, ... material and tools. Custom made to order or Dimas Trading Company, 1260 Huntington repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog AR.JICtES.FOR SAlE Drive, Suite #107, South Pasadena, $2.00. TANIENGINEERING, Box338,Atwater, II II California 91030. Phone:l-800-280--0680, OH 44201; (216) 94 7-2268. 213-344-0680, 213-734-5006, Fax: 344- MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed 0542 lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. ions. Module 0.2to1.0. Constant profile produc Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. ingtraditionalsquare bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. HALLCLOCKSHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Char Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead lotte, NC 28205. beat (set offour sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper · Schohl Machine Inc. Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. COMPLETE CRYSTAL MAKING SYSTEM
ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE WE'RE OFFERING A "COMBO" SPECIAL! Overhauled with a three-year (3) warranty on all labor Both Machines MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC CUTTER& 1326 Stanford Street Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 GRINDER Established in 1982 & AWi Trained Plus 100 FREE Please Call (31O)828-6707 Crystal Blanks Shipping Free
ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE $995.00 We are Factory Authorized Service for: * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R WE ALSO SELL CRYSTAL BLANKS! We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. 1HICKNESSES: 1.3 mm 1 mm .09 mm .08 mm .07 mm 50¢. ea. JACK PHILLIPS ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE VISA & MASTERCARD ACCEPTED 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 P.O. Box -Hl6 208 B.11ber Street Spring Like, ,\JI -19-15h For Information Call (415) 453-9266 l'honL' (b lh) 8-12-6025 FJX (616) 8-12-2198
Horological Times/July 1994 45 Classifieds
CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL 11 II Save time, money, and work re-covering I~ ~I bellows. Easler than replacing. For Infor mation, send business-size SASE to: HAMILTON MILITARY Many MATERIAL. JANDi GOGGIN Fine jewelry store located in Midwest needs parts availablefor992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 professional watchmaker. Full-time position watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hard with above average compensation and benefits ware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, De package. Send resume to: Box HW794, cloHor von, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272. ological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. VIBROGRAF B200A, little use, excellent con EQUIPMENT: Like new K&D 18R inverto dition, $895. (608) 269-8131 (business hours). staking tool set, $395; Vibrograf B-200, $795; VibrografB-200A, $895; Marshall 3-jarcleaner, WATCHMAKER-Knowledgeable inmost phas $149.95; Watchmaster WT cleaner, $350; es ofrepair from antiques to modern. Fax price L&R Varimatic·Ultrasonic, $500.00 (2); Watchmaster WT Mark II, $595; L&R console list to Richard Mazza at (404) 422-8759 or mial L&R Master $50.00 (2); Watchmakers cleaner, $150; Bestfit 1986 microfiche system to P.O. Box 420574, Atlanta, GA 30342. with viewer, $395; Vigor EN 775 engraver, Benches (2). Ken Waldhorn (810) 399-3067. $595; new Hermes inside-ring engraver, $595; new Hermes engraver floor model, $1495. 0th· er watchmaker's, jewelers and engraving equipment available! Send SASE for our COMPUTER-AIDED TIMING MACHINE Ji equipment and hand tool list. Watches Etc., With a touch of the computer keyboard, you can 5934NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) display information on the screen that lets you B00KS 789-2824. know just how well your clock or watch is II II working. Detects fast or slow, in beat or out, and problems with balance wheel or escape wheel. This unit is essential for all repair shops! Free CLOCKMAKERS NEWSLETTER Subscribe today! $35.00 for one year; $62.00 for GRIFFIN WATCH COMPANY brochure. Write H&S Technical Systems, Inc., two years. Six-year index $2.50. Sample copy 5 South Mast St., Goffstown, NH 03045 54 Wake Robin Way, Asheville, NC 28805 or call (603) 497·2624 (704) 299-8245 or (704) 252-0820. $3.00, including CNs list ofbooks, back issues, Specializing in Mechanical Parts & Movements lubricants, and more. Clockmakers Newsletter, Wrist, Pocket, Chrono. Crystal Fitting 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607. Steven Over 30,000 movements in stock. G. Conover, editor. Check wtth us for common parts, movements too. Buying accumulations of parts and movements. II II
Custom Made Watch Bands Watch/Clock Repair and Engraving Shop. Est. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii;;::;.:.111 To Fit Your Vintage Watch 25 years. Sales: gifts, clocks, awards. Excellent Ll~I equipment & inventory. Gross six figures & 1950s Style (Not Tapered), Made in USA growing steadily. Located on Army base/5-year City College of San Francisco Watch Repair GENUINE ALLIGATOR & CROCODILE government contract - requires watchmaker on Training since 1938. In order to speak with the premises. Perfect for watchmaker owner/oper Instructor and at the same time register for the ator. For serious inquiry please call (602) 458- class: Voice Mail (415) 731-0621. Open enroll 0076. Business hours 9-5 Mon.-Sat. AFRICAN OSTRICH ment throughout the semester. 106 Baztlett St., Room 214, San Francisco, CA 94110. When ~tt;:,;!W\D'fti:- :~ writing for information: CCSF Watch Repair Instructor, 2425 Yorba St., San Francisco, CA AvaD&ble in ALSO AVAILABLE - THE EXECUTIVE Quality Instruction Since 1945 Thickly padded & stitched with rounded end, Crocodile & Ostrich •• $22.50 WATCHMAKING (17months) Send SASE for other selections WATCH REPAIR Send Check To: Watch and jewelry repair concessions available (9 and 13 months) FOX ENTERPRISES in national retail chain. Small investment re JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR 4011 Dalevlew Ave., Seaford, New York 11783 quired. Ifinterested, write to: Action Time, Inc., 20423 State Road 7, Suite 6132, Boca Raton, FL Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation OR CALL 516-781-5754 33498. 46 Horological Times/July 1994 Classifieds WANTED TO BUY Watches Wanted LONGINES & OMEGA Pre-1950 Parts, Cases, Case Parts, Movements Any condition: running to demolished ANY MAKE: UNUSUAL, COMPLICATED ROLEX MOVEMENT WANTED. Caliber Watch parts, case parts, movements from Repeaters, 1530, 1535, 1560, or 1565. Hands and dial Chronos, Musical, etc. in..,am'. condition also. Ken Waldhorn, (810) 399-3067. GRIFFIN WATCH CO. 5 So. Mast St., Goffstown, NH 03045 (603) 497-2624 We desperately need our retail New old-stock leather wristwatch bands--sil customers' fine watches by: ver, gold, platinum cases, chronographs, older Rolex parts, bands. Sam Hansen, 6605 Argent, WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Easy Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Pasco, WA 99301; (509) 545-9929. Opener. Also need Ro lex crystal press and Rolex movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buy watch Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, makers tools and equipment, pocket watches, Gubelin, etc. WANTED: High-grade electro-mechanical and wristwatches. Single items or complete clocks, literature, and parts. Elliot Siegel, 930 collections. Watches Etc., 5934 N.W. 39th, We are paying top prices for any high Broadway, Wassapequis, NY 11758; (516) 541- Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. quality, unusual or complicated 2400. Wrist or Pocket Watches ANYTHING ILLINOIS When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch WANTED: CHRONOGRAPH MOVE Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 MENTS. Will pay: Valjoux 88 & 69, $300; 72C, ments, and cases (complete or parts) in any In Texas 1-214-902-0664 $150; 72 & 23, $125; 22, $75; 7733, $40; Venus condition for avid private collector. Please call 140 & 178, $100; 150, $50; split 179, $1,500; (800) 421-1968, x5520; Fax (714) 725-9787 or Always prompt immediate payment! Longines 13ZN & 13.33, $350; Movado 90 & 95, mail to: Fred Friedberg, do TAMS, P.O. Box $350; universal, $100-$1,000; repeater move 2068, Tustin, CA 92681-2068. Wingate's Quality Watches ments, $100-$2,000; Rolex movements, $100- P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 $500. Will pay more for complete watches. Also want cases, dials, parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; Phone and Fax (703) 885-6064. We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any WE'RE INTERESTED IN YOUR amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: COLOR SLIDES AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and WANTED clockmakers where a camera is not also there. • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) • Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from Sets, Etc. color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable. ~~tt FREE 1-800-426-2344 If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8-1/2 x 11 inch color photo. It SPECIALTY METALS will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with REFINING COMPANY 10 Bay Street description to: Horological Times, P .0. Box 11011, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, Westport, CT 06880 OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmak Members: Better BusinessBureau ers-Clockmakers Institute. Jewelers Board of Trade Our 111th Consecutive Ad Ron Fried, President Horological Times/July 1994 47 ..___ D_at_e_s_to_R_e_m_e_m_b_e_r __ _.I IL..__A_d_In_d_e_x_ ___. JULY 1994 20-21-Watchmakers Association of 9-10-Mechanical Chronographs Bench Pennsylvania Convention/Seminar, Blue Ridge Machinery ...... 12 Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Hiram G. Andrews Center, Johnstown, Birmingham, AL.* PA. Borel ...... 5 15-17-Advanced Clock Repair Bench 20-22--L.A. Jewelry Show, Los Angeles Con Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instruc vention Center, West Hall. (800) 523-7469. Butterworth ...... 29 tor; Minneapolis, MN.* SEPTEMBER 1994 Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover 17-North Carolina Watchmakers 9-12-Lathe Course Bench Course, Phase Assocation Cape Fear Chapter Annual I (AWI); Roy Hovey, instructor; Austin, Auction. Call (910) 425-3387 for details. TX.* Chronos ...... 19 15-18--Lathe Bench Course, Phase I (AWI); 10-11-Pennsylvania Jewelers Associa Esslinger ...... inside front cover Roy Hovey, instructor; Denver, CO.* tion Keystone Jewelry Show, Monroeville, PA. 23-26-JA International Jewelry Show, Eveready ...... 7 Javits Convention Center, New York, NY. 16-18-Iowa Jewelers Assocation Con vention, location to be announced. Gern City ...... 6 29-31-Watchmakers-Clockmakers Asso ciation of Ohio Annual Convention, Park 17-18-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Hotel, Columbus, OH. For more informa Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, in Kaben ...... 37 tion, contact Bob & Mary Allis, 106 structor; Austin, TX.* Earnst St., Fostoria, OH 44830; (419) Livesay's ...... 43 435-8009. 17-18-Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Tucson, Maxell ...... 3 30-August 1-Heart of America Jewelry AZ.* (Held in conjunction with conven Show, Overland Park, KS. tion.) McCaw ...... 37 AUGUST 1994 18-Basic Pocket Watch Repair Bench 13-14-Hairspring Vibrating Bench Course (AWi); Alice Carpenter, instruc Plymouth ...... 29 Course (AWi); Joseph Cerullo, instruc tor; Tucson, AZ.* (Held in conjunction tor; Rochester, NY.* with convention.) Precision Crystal...... 6 13-14-Introduction to Clock Repair 24-25-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, Course (AWi); James Williams, instruc S. LaRose ...... 16 instructor; Austin, TX.* tor; Columbus, OH.* 13-14-Indiana Jewelers Association OCTOBER 1994 S&G ...... - ...... 27 Convention & Trade Show, Indianapolis, 14-16-Illinois State Watchmakers Asso IN. ciation Annual Convention; Keller Con SMEA ...... 29 vention Center, Effingham, IL. 20-21-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Twin City ...... 9 Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; 22-23-Florida State Watchmakers Asso Baltimore, MD.* ciation Convention, Orlando, Florida. United Tool ...... 33 20-21-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair *For more information on AWI Bench Course (AWI); Robert Bishop, in Bench Courses, Project Extend, and Vibrograf ...... 15 structor; Nashville, TN.* Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 20-21-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati OH Witschi ...... 17 Course (AWi); James Williams, instruc 45211; (513)661-3838; Fax (513) tor; Springfield, IL.* 661-3131. Zantech ...... 11 48 Horological Times/July 1994 Gasket ortmen. Our popular 0-Ring ..... Gasket Assortment now has 3 each of 8 New Ultra-Thin Numbers! MM Inside Outside MM Inside Outside MM Inside Outslclo Number Thkk Diam Dllim Numt.r Thick Diam Diam Numt.r Thick Diam Diam 30-2000 30 20.00 20.60 &o-2700 .60 27.00 21 20 80-1650 .IO 16 50 11.10 A complete selection for today's thin 30-2200 .30 22.00 22.60 6().2190 .60 21,90 JO. 10 80-1675 .eo 15-75 11.J5 30-2600 .30 26.00 26.60 60-2950 .60 29.50 J0.70 80-1170 .IO 11.70 20 JO quartz watches as well as for most 35-1580 .35 15.80 16.50 (O.JOOO .60 J0,00 31 .20 11().20)0 ,IO 20.30 21 .!IO ~1100 .40 11.00 11.IO (O.JOIO .IO JO.IO 32.00 80-2100 .IO 21.00 22.60 mechanical and diver's watches. ~1250 .40 12.50 13.JO 60-3115 .IO 31.IS 33.00 80-2760 .IO 27.80 29.20 ~1400 .40 14.00 14.IO 61).)220 .60 32.20 33.40 B0-2MO .IO 21.40 J0.00 One of the most comprehensive 0-ring gasket ~1500 .40 15.00 15 IO 60-JllO .11111 33.IO 35.00 80-2'00 .IO 21.00 30.60 40-1500 .40 16.00 16 IO 71).1740 ,70 17.40 11.IO 80-2115 .IO 29. 15 J0.75 assortments released In several years. It covers 40-1700 .40 17.00 17.IO 71).1150 .70 11.50 19.90 I0-29JO .IO 29.30 JO.IQ both thin gaskets for modern quartz watches 40-1800 .40 11.00 11.IO 7G-1190 .70 11.!IO 20.JO 80-2960 .IO 21.60 J 1.20 40-1900 .40 19.00 19.IO 71).1925 .70 19 25 20.65 80-3000 .IO 30,00 J 1.60 as well as for most older mechanical watches 40-2100 .40 21.00 21.IO 70-1960 .70 19.60 21 .00 80-3060 .IO 30.60 J2.20 40-2300 .40 23.00 23.IO 71).1980 .70 19.IO 22.20 80-3070 .IO JO. 70 J2.JO that use 0-ring gaskets. The assortment contains .., . ,. .... ,. ·· 40-2400 .40 24.00 24 IO 70-20IO .70 20 IO 22.20 80-3130 .IO J 1.30 J2.IO 40-2500 .40 25.00 25.IO 71).2130 ,70 21 JO 22, 70 80-3160 .IO 31 .80 JJ 20 three each of 141 sizes of Cas-Ker brand 0-ring · ·l'l!!i!!i!l!!i!ffJYf!!.lf/;.'f#.llt 40-2700 .40 27.00 27.IO 70-2300 .70 23.00 24.40 80-3240 .IO J2.40 34.00 40-2780 .40 27 IO 21.60 71).2460 .70 24 .60 26.00 BO-HOO .IO JJ.00 34.80 gaskets, 423 total. Comes In a convenient hinged lid box · 40-2800 .40 21.00 21.IO 71).2510 .70 25 .00 26.40 15-2940 .15 21.40 Jl.10 40-2900 .40 29.00 29.IO 71).M&Q .70 26.60 21.00 9().1150 JlO 11.50 20.30 with a listing of thickness and Inside and outside diameters 40-3000 .40 30,00 30.IO 7G-2700 .70 27 00 28.40 9().1860 JlO 11.60 2040 of each number. 40-3070 .40 30.70 31.50 70-2750 .70 27 .50 2890 9().1900 JlO 19.00 20 IO $ 45-0810 .45 110 900 70-2780 .70 27 .IO 2920 9().1920 JlO 19.20 21.00 9().2060 95 50-1650 .so 16.50 17.50 70-2850 .70 21,50 29 !IO JlO 2080 2240 50-1750 .50 17-50 18.50 70-2900 .70 29.00 JO 40 9().21JO .90 21.30 23.10 50-2020 .50 20 20 21 .20 71).2940 .70 29.40 JO IO 9().2220 .90 22.20 24 00 Asst CK-133, 423 0-Ring Gaskets...... 50-2070 50 20.70 21 ,70 70-2980 .70 29,IO 31.20 9().2510 .90 25. 10 25-90 39 50-2200 50 22.00 23 00 71).JOOO .70 J0.00 31 .40 9().2840 .90 2140 J0.20 Refills ...... $1.50/3 $2.20/6 $3.SOdz 50-2400 50 24.00 25,00 70-l020 .70 J0.20 31 .11111 9().28'0 .IO 21 60 30.40 50-2500 50 25,00 25-00 71).JO&O .70 JO.liD 32 00 9().2190 JlO 21.IO 30.70 50-2600 .50 26.00 27.00 71).3140 .70 31.40 32.IO 9().3000 .IO JO 00 Jl.10 50-2700 .50 27.00 21.00 71).3180 .70 31.10 33.20 9().3020 .IO J0.20 32.00 50-2800 .50 21.00 21.00 75-1660 .75 16,11111 11. 10 to-3060 ,IO 30 60 J2.40 50-2150 .50 21,50 29.50 75-1815 .75 II.IS 20.35 9().3100 ,IO 31.00 J2.IO 50-2900 .50 29.00 30.00 75-1920 .75 19.20 20.70 9().31IO .IO 31.IO 33.10 50-3000 .50 30.00 31.00 75-2300 .75 23 ,00 24.50 100-ltoo 1.00 11.00 21.00 Cas·~Co. 50-3100 .50 31 ,00 32.00 75-2600 .75 26,00 27.50 100-2IOO 1 00 26 00 21.00 50-3200 .50 32,00 33.00 75-2740 .75 27 .40 2190 100-2750 1.00 27.50 29 50 50-3300 .50 33.00 34.00 75-2790 .75 27 .!IO 29.40 100-2900 1.00 29.00 31 .00 55-1800 .55 17.90 19.00 75-2880 .75 21,IO JO.JO 100-2950 1.00 29 50 31.50 60-1000 .60 10.00 11.20 75-2910 .75 29.1 0 JO.SO 100-2975 1.00 21.75 31.75 Call Today 60-1750 .60 17.50 11.70 75-2930 .75 29,JO JO.IQ 100-3000 1.00 JO.GO 32.00 50-1- .60 19,IO 21.00 75-2970 .75 29.70 31.20 100-3060 1.00 J0.60 J2.60 60-2100 60 21.00 22.20 75-JOOO .75 J0.00 31 .50 100-3075 1.00 JO 75 J2.75 60-2165 .60 21 .65 22.15 75·l065 .75 J0.65 32. 15 100-3175 1.00 Jl.75 33.75 50-2450 .60 24.50 25.70 75-3100 .75 31 .00 32.50 100-3200 1.00 J2 00 34 00 1-800-487-0408 60-2500 .60 25,00 25-20 75-JlJO .75 Jl .JO 32.IO 100-3250 1.00 32.50 34.50 FAX 1·800-487-5848 2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 LOCAL PHONE 5131241-7073 FAX 5131241-5848 /COURSES & INSTRUCTORS 1994 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop, CMEW AWi BENCH COURSES Basic Pocket Watch To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration Alice Carpenter, CMW, CMEW fee of $50 per instruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Introduction to Clock Repair PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW EARLIEST POSTMARKS. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, Advanced Clock Repair and signature. Roland Iverson, CMC FAX: (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION: (513) 661-3838 Repair of the Atmos Clock Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI JULY 1994 Mechanical Chronographs 15-17--Advanced Clock Repair--Minneapolis, MN (FULL) Mechanical Watch Repair 15-18--Lathe Course (Phase 1 )--Denver, CO James Lubic 16-17--Mechanical Chronographs--Birmingham, AL Cuckoo Clock Repair AUGUST1994 James Williams, CC 13-14--Hairspring Vibrating--Rochester, NY 400-Day Clock Repair 13-14--lntroduction to Clock Repair--Austin, TX Striking Clocks 20-21--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Baltimore, MD John Nagle 20-21--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Springfield, IL Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs SEPTEMBER 1994 James Broughton, CMEW, FAWI 9-12--Lathe Course (Phase 1 )--Austin, TX Hairspring Vibrating 16-17--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--San Antonio, TX* Joseph Cerullo, CMW, CMC 17-18--Striking Clocks--Tucson, AZ* 17-18--Basic Pocket Watch--Tucson, AZ* Modern Mechanical Chronographs 24-25--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Columbus, OH Remy Waelchli OCTOBER 1994 The Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Course 7-10--Lathe Course (Phase 11)--Austin, TX Roy Hovey 8-9--Hairspring Vibrating--Birmingham, AL Phase I: Basic Lathe & Accessories 21--lntroduction to the Watchmakers Lathe--Orlando, FL* Phase II: Mounting Wheels, Arbors, & Staff Blanks Phase Ill: Staffs, Repivoting, Jewel NOVEMBER 1994 Setting; Bushings, Lantern 3-4--Striking Clocks--Minneapolis, MN* Pinions, & the Jacot Tool 4-7--Lathe Course (Phase 11)--Denver, CO (Please contact A WI Central for more detailed course outline.) * Held in conjunction with a convention " 1994 PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES To register for these courses, please JULY 1994 SEPTEMBER 1994 send with your request a registration 18-22--0uartz 1--Jaeger 12-16--Watch IV--Lubic fee of $50 per instruction day (AWi 25-29--0uartz 11--Bishop 19-23--Watch Vlll--Lubic members) to: AWi Central, 3700 26-30--Basic Jewelry Repair--Richmond Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cin AUGUST 1994 cinnati, OH 45211. You may register 1-5--0uartz 111--Carpenter OCTOBER 1994 by fax if you wish; if so, please include 8-12--Clock 1--LaChapelle 3-7--Clock Vl--Nagle your Visa or MasterCard number, card 1 5-1 9--Clock IV--lverson 17-29--Lathe Course--Hovey expiration date, and signature. FAX: 22-26--Clock V--Christianson (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION: 29-Sept. 2--Clock Vll--Christianson 1513) 661-3838