ARCHIPELAGO not last,thearchipelago’sallure willcaptivate longafter you’ve finishedyourvisit. spots leftandgooddealstobefound.And,whileyourreverie oncaliphsandsultansmay careen recklessly throughStoneTown’sstreets. However, there are stillsomequiet,unspoiled whelm someareas ofthecoast,costscreep constantlyskywardsand present street development toutswillprobablybeyourfirstintroduction, threatens toover- coves, andapatchworkofneatfarmplotscovers thehillsides. Dense mangrove swampslineitscoast,openingoccasionallyontostunningwhite-sand verdant Pemba –thearchipelago’s‘other’island,seldomvisited andsteeped inmystique. and thewindsofmonsoon.Justacrossdeepwaters ofthePemba channellieshilly, pause toshare thelatest gossip,whilechildren chaseballsthroughthestreets. game of (caps) chatanimatedly over cupsofstrongcoffee whileplayingaseeminglynever-ending houses withbrass-studdedwoodendoors. Elderlymen intheir ofthearchipelago–narrow,cobbledalleywayswindpastArabic-style –theheart and sultans,tothewestcoastofIndiawithitssensualrhythmsheavilyladenscents. In ofPersia,the centuries–toancientkingdom totheOmanofbygonedayswithitscaliphs Step throughthemilesand offtheboatorplaneontoZanzibar,andyou’llbetransported Archipelago Zanzibar 106 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ There is,ofcourse,anothersidetolife onthearchipelago:hasslesfromZanzibar’sever- Along thecoast,life goesonasithasforcenturies,itspacesetbytherhythmoftides

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: Browsing for Discovering Relaxingonpicture-perfect Wandering through fragrant withspices island orelsewhere aroundthearchipelago. fisharoundMnembaatoll,Misali of colourful Diving andsnorkelling ners andculture narrow, cobbledstreets bao (aboardgame).Nearby,veiled womenintheirflowing,black Pemba’s souvenirs % Stone Town’s 024 ( p142 ) unknowncor- ( p126 ) intinyshops ( p118 ) amidshoals beaches ( p112 ) (p128) „ POPULATION: 1,352,000 Stone Town Beaches kanzu (white robes)and piki-piki

Snorkelling Diving & Pemba bui-bui (motorbikes) (motorbikes) (cover-alls) kofia

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M Rufiji Mkomazi Wa ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO ZANZIBAR a Usambar Utete sultans ruling under a British protectorate. sultans a British protectorate. ruling under until 10 December lasted This arrangement 1963 when Zanzibar gained its independence. 1964, the in January Just one month later, the end of the slave trade, Omani rule over rule over trade, Omani the slave the end of Zanzibar in 1862 the and began to weaken, sultanate Zanzibar was formally partitioned. Oman, with Omani became independent of ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ (written (written ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO •• History

Periplus of the Erythraean Sea Erythraean the Periplus of From the mid-19th century, with increas- The arrival of the Portuguese in the early the Portuguese in the early The arrival of Between and 15th centuries, the the 12th History History ing European interest in East and in and ing European interest such a high such point that in the 1840s the Sultan from the his court here Oman relocated of Persian Gulf. island again flourished, centred on slaves, on slaves, centred island again flourished, Caravans set out for the ivory and cloves. the mainland, and trade reached of interior the mid-16th century gave the Portuguese the Portuguese the mid-16th century gave the routing that they no doubt deserved. By the early 19th century Oman had gained the upper hand on Zanzibar, and trade on the amenable rest stop on the long journey to stop on the long journey to amenable rest India, and then by Omani Arabs, who in dominance did not last long. It was challenged dominance did not last long. It was challenged by the British, who found Zanzibarfirst an golden age, as Zanzibar and then Pemba fell fell as Zanzibargolden age, and then Pemba Portuguese under Portuguese control. Yet 16th century temporarily interrupted this this interrupted 16th century temporarily (prayer niche showing the direction to Mecca) to Mecca) showing the direction (prayer niche 12th century. from the early dates archipelago today. One of the most important today. One of archipelago from this era is the remnants archaeological ), whose mihrab p138 mosque at Kizimkazi ( trade from the EastIslam and the also came the that still characterises Arabic architecture for sailors by a Greek merchant around AD around AD merchant by a Greek for sailors trading settle-60) documents small Arabic while import- as distant Asia, as India and With the and textiles. ing spices, glassware Persia also began to make their way to East their way to East to make also began Persia they established settlements Africa, where also at Zanzibar’s and probably on Pemba, Ukuu. as trade links came into its own, archipelago Gulf blossomed. with Arabia and the Persian Zanzibarsup- became a powerful city-state, gold, ivory and wood to places plying slaves, many historians believe to be Zanzibar. From From many historians believe Zanzibar. to be from traders Shirazi around the 8th century, established by the 1st century, and makes established and makes by the 1st century, which Menouthias, of to the island reference ments along the coast that were already well well already were ments along the coast that The had probably beenhad probably at an evenear- visited Arabia. from and sailors by traders lier date and Pemba channels – perhaps in search of in search – perhaps of channels and Pemba The islands beaches. better and fish bigger least to the start of the first millennium, millennium, the first startleast to the of when Bantu-speaking the peoples from across the Zanzibar mainland ventured The archipelago’s history stretches back at back at stretches history archipelago’s The lonelyplanet.com