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Coronet 270 Caledonian Canal FREE DIGITAL MAGAZINE Motorboat DECEMBER 2015 Owner Aordable practical boating MY BOAT Coronet 270 CRUISING Coaster 720 GT l Dell Quay Ranger 27 l Corrosion Sprays Caledonian Canal CRUISING CRUISING Caledonian Canal Charter Highland Fling by Pam Born hen we retired last year, we what to expect along the way. “The Scottish highlands drew up a ‘bucket list’ of the The quickest way to get to Inverness things that we wanted to do. was to fly, so after a one and a half hour are very special to us and cruising WOne was to travel from one end of the flight from Luton and a short taxi ride, we the Caledonian Canal was an Caledonian Canal to the other, by boat. were at the boatyard early one Saturday So we did a bit of research and booked morning in June. First there was the ambition that didn’t disappoint” a week’s charter with Caley Cruisers in all-important and very thorough safety Inverness in June. briefing to attend, after which, we were needed was our provisions, which arrived along the canal to the first swing bridge, We chose Caley Cruisers because we introduced to our boat, a Broom Ocean shortly after courtesy of a Tesco van. and then on to Dochgarroch Lock. At this were impressed by the quality and style of 38 called Balmoral. The boat was clean point the Caley Cruiser staff, who were the boats they offered. Most were Brooms and comfortable, more akin to a private Day 1 – Inverness - Urquhart Harbour aboard boats with less experienced crews, or Haines, fitted out by Caley Cruisers, boat rather than a hire cruiser, and it had Once the briefings were over, it was time waved us all goodbye on the lock side. to their own specifications. We were also everything you could possibly need for to embark on our adventure. We left the Some crews had decided to stay at impressed by their website, giving detailed our weeks stay, including bedding and base in Inverness in convoy with other Dochgarroch Lock for the night, and this information about the cruising area and a supply of lovely white towels. All we fleet boats and cruised the short distance is always advisable if the weather on Loch 14 December 2015 Motorboat Owner © Digital Marine Media Ltd 15 Caledonian Canal The Caledonian Canal lies within the Great Glen, a massive fault line resulting from a tectonic tear in the earth’s crust over 300 million years ago, which virtually cuts Scotland into two parts. Running for approximately 60 miles, from Fort William on the west coast to Inverness on the east coast, the canal Conditions changed dramatically on Loch Ness, provides safe passage for vessels, and our charter boat handled it very well avoiding the exposed waters of the northern coastline. With famous Ness is inclement. As it was only mid- engineer Thomas Telford overseeing afternoon and the weather and conditions the construction, work began over were good, we decided to push on into the 200 years ago and it took 21 years open waters of Loch Ness and head for a to complete. This massive feat of little harbour in Urquhart Bay, just south Going up, the flight of five locks at Fort Augustus took us about an hour to traverse engineering, connects three huge, of the village of Drumnadrochit. Urquhart beautiful lochs, Loch Ness, Loch Harbour is a delightfully tranquil and the boat, admiring the amazing scenery, waves in the centre of the Loch. All due, Oich and Lock Lochy, across some very sheltered basin where mooring fees delved into our Tesco supplies, and had an we were told, to the ‘funnelling’ effect of the most dramatic and rugged are £10 per night and electric hook-up early night. of the weather down the Loch. We were scenery the UK has to offer. £4, paid for at a pay and display machine. completely engulfed by sea mist and All moorings in this harbour are stern- Day 2 – Urquhart - Invergarry rain, with a further 12 miles to go to to, so it gave us a chance to practice our We awoke to heavy rain, but this soon Fort Augustus. Balmoral handled the medi-mooring skills. The harbour is also gave way to bright sunshine. In tranquil conditions beautifully and we felt no home to a Fairline 40, aptly named Nessie conditions, we departed Urquhart danger as we plodded on at 6 knots, Hunter, which runs regular trips out onto Harbour to traverse the length of Loch ploughing through the waves, unfazed. the loch to look for Nessie, and the Loch Ness to Fort Augustus, rounding the Astonishingly, as the Loch broadened Ness research vessel, Deepscan. Although headland where Urquhart Castle stands and we approached Fort Augustus, the there is a taxi service from the harbour to dominant over the eastern end of the conditions changed dramatically. The the village and local restaurants such as Loch. We had been warned about the wind died and we found ourselves, Cobbs Restaurant at the Clansman Hotel, unpredictability of the weather conditions once again, in bright sunshine, perfect There are 29 locks on the Canal. Above, it had been an early start for us, and a on Loch Ness, and soon, a short white- conditions for ascending the flight of five the flight of five locks at Fort Augustus very long and eventful day. We sat in the capped chop began, followed fairly locks in the centre of the town. We hit Fort summer evening sunshine on the back of swiftly by Force 5 conditions with 2–3ft Augustus at just the right time. No sooner Fort Augustus Urquhart Harbour Banavie Invergarry Inverness L O C H L O C H Y L O C H N E S S Fort L O C H O I C H Laggan Locks William Ben Nevis CRUISING There was a out, with tiered terraces, a Lily pond and surprise at the old stone pier. The hotel building itself is pine fringed Kytra very imposing and would have been very Lock. Gold stars were given to grand in its day, with a coach house and lifejacket wearers stone bell tower. After first walking around the fenced off ruins of the castle, we ventured out of the grounds and crossed the bridge, over the fast flowing river, to the village. The Glengarry Castle Hotel comes highly recommended as an eatery On a clear day the dramatic, snow-capped Ben but, sadly, it was fully booked. There is, Nevis mountain range is visible from the canal however, another hotel, the Invergarry Hotel, offering meals in the village, but it where we descended into, Loch Lochy, our had we moored up on the long waiting a lifejacket. We wore our gold stars with is quite a hike. final Loch on the canal. Here we passed pontoon, the Lock Keeper came down to pride that afternoon. the ‘Le Boat’ hire fleet, which is based at meet us to give us instructions and, before Once through Cullochy Lock, and the Day 3 – Invergarry - Banavie Laggan Locks. The scenery had begun we knew it, we were entering the first Aberchalder Swing Bridge, we were at the It was a chilly start to the day so we fired to change, the high rolling green hills chamber with friendly lock staff taking highest point of the canal and once again up the diesel heating and listened to the gave way to more rugged snow-capped our lines. Two crew stayed ashore with in open waters. It was just a short distance Scottish news on the radio. Apparently mountains and, once through Gairlochy bow and stern lines and as each chamber along Loch Oich, with some careful there was a heatwave on the way. Our Locks and Moy Swing Bridge and onto the filled, boats had to be physically pulled navigation via buoys, to our destination, plan was to travel to the end of navigation last section of the canal, we occasionally through into the next chamber. The good a small pontoon directly under the tall, (for hire cruisers), Banavie Locks, as caught glimpses of the sea, many metres waiting pontoons above the locks gave eerie ruins of Invergarry Castle, in the quickly as possible. We could then take a below us, in the distance. us an opportunity to have a quick look grounds of the Glengarry Castle Hotel. leisurely cruise back to base, stopping at Under the gaze of the dramatic Ben around the town and get some supplies of We shared this free mooring with another selected moorings on the way. To reach Nevis range of mountains, we tied up on Highland Whisky. Caley Cruiser, a Broom Monarch. This is that goal we still had approximately 25 the pontoons above the Banavie Locks, We were back on the canal again with such a beautiful, peaceful spot, with high miles, several locks and swing bridges, nicknamed Neptune’s Staircase. Beyond a further two locks to negotiate before hills on the opposite bank extending up and 5 hours of cruising to do. At the end lay the entrance to Loch Linnie. Here, as we reached our intended destination of into the mist. Adjacent to our mooring of Loch Oich we passed through the with many of the other locks along the Invergarry, on Loch Oich. Linda, the jolly pontoon was the sad and pitiful wreck of Laggan Swing Bridge and entered the canal, there are excellent shower, toilet, Lock Keeper at Kytra Lock, insisted on the ex-herring fishing vessel, Eala Bhan, narrow pine tree-fringed section of canal, coming round to all the boats in the lock which sunk here around five years ago.
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