Consumption and Exposure to Finished Cosmetic Products A
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Food and Chemical Toxicology 124 (2019) 280–299 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Food and Chemical Toxicology journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/foodchemtox Review Consumption and exposure to finished cosmetic products: A systematic T review ∗ Anne-Sophie Ficheuxa, , Marie-Pierre Gomez-Berradab, Alain-Claude Roudota, Pierre-Jacques Ferretb a Univ Brest, Laboratoire des Interactions Epithéliums-Neurones LIEN, F-29200, Brest, France b Safety Assessment Department, Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique, Allée Camille Soula – BP 74 Vigoulet Auzil, 31322, Castanet Tolosan – Cedex, France ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT Keywords: According to the European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, cosmetic products should be safe for human health Systematic review when used under normal or foreseeable conditions of use. To perform a safety evaluation, consumption data of Cosmetic product finished cosmetic product are necessary to assess the corresponding consumer's exposure. Consumption The aim of this review was to highlight consumption (percentage of users, frequency of use, amount used, Exposure number of products daily used, types of products co-used …) and exposure data to cosmetic products available in the literature. A systematic approach was used following the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-analyses) guidelines. Literature search was performed in February 2018 using Pubmed and Scopus databases. The following information was collected for the 82 publications included in this review: type of study, characteristics of the population (number, age, sex, region of origin), period of data collection, types of products studied, method(s) of data collection, consumption and/or exposure parameters obtained. Because of the high number of quantitative results obtained in the different studies, these data are not presented here. Readers interested in one or more studies are invited to consult the results available in the original publication (s). This work could be very useful for safety assessors or other persons working in the risk assessment field. 1. Introduction cosmetic product should be safe for human health when used under normal or foreseeable conditions of use (EU, 2009). To perform a safety Cosmetic products are defined in the European Regulation (EC) No. evaluation, consumption data of finished cosmetic product (frequency 1223/2009 as “any substance or mixture intended to be placed in of use, amount per use, amount per day) are necessary to assess the contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair corresponding consumer's exposure (SCCS, 2015). The exposure (mg/ system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the kg bw/day) can be determined by dividing the daily consumption of a mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly finished product by the body weight of the studied population. Ex- to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, pro- posure data to the finished product are essential for determining the tecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body systemic exposure dose (SED) for each ingredient found in the finished odours” (EU, 2009). Cosmetic products, also called personal care pro- product. This SED value is used for the calculation of the margin of ducts, are part of everyday life of consumers of all ages in most regions safety (MoS) which represents the ratio between a No Observable Ad- of the world. Their use is driven mainly by the interest in hygiene, verse Effect Level (NOAEL) and a SED value (SCCS, 2015). personal appearance, or feeling of well-being (Williams et al., 2016). An Initially, two large consumption and exposure studies were carried online survey conducted by Cosmetics Europe in 2017 on 4116 con- out in the 2000s. The first one, conducted in a European adult popu- sumers across 10 European Union Member States has shown that cos- lation, aimed to provide consumption and exposure data for 12 types of metic products were “important or very important in daily lives” for cosmetic products commonly applied by consumers (Hall et al., 2007, 71% of interviewed people and that products used “improved their 2011; McNamara et al., 2007). These European data have been cur- quality of life” for 72% of them (Cosmetics Europe, 2017). A finished rently reported in the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) cosmetic product can be considered as the result of a combination of notes of guidance (SCCS, 2015). The second one provided consumption ingredients. The European regulation No. 1223/2009 specifies that a data for 12 types of products largely used by US adult women (Loretz ∗ Corresponding author. E-mail address: [email protected] (A.-S. Ficheux). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fct.2018.11.060 Received 17 September 2018; Received in revised form 9 November 2018; Accepted 29 November 2018 Available online 05 December 2018 0278-6915/ © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. A.-S. Ficheux et al. Food and Chemical Toxicology 124 (2019) 280–299 et al., 2006, 2005, 2008). These American and European data are 2. Methods presented in the US Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) ex- posure factors handbooks (US EPA, 2011). However, there was a lack of This systematic review followed the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting published consumption/exposure data i) for many types of products Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-analyses) guidelines for re- available in the market and commonly used by the population such as porting systematic reviews (Liberati et al., 2009; Moher et al., 2009). baby wipes, hair dye, sunscreen or depilatory products; ii) for many subpopulations not taken into account in these two large studies, such 2.1. Databases and research equation as babies under 3 years old, children, adolescents or pregnant women; iii) for Asian, South American or African people who represent billions Studies containing human consumption and/or human exposure of consumers whose consumption of cosmetics may be different from data to one or several cosmetic products were identified via electronic Europeans or Americans. database. Literature search was performed in February 2018 using Recent studies conducted in 2010s have investigated the con- Pubmed and Scopus databases. The PubMed Advanced Search Builder sumption and the exposure of various populations (in terms of country, was used to write the following equation: (((((((((“cosmetic product”) of origin, of age or sex) to many cosmetic product types for which there OR ″cosmetic products”) OR cosmetic) OR cosmetics) OR ″cosmetic was no data available in the literature. These recent consumption stu- care product”) OR ″cosmetic care products”) OR ″personal care pro- dies could be large in scale (i.e. important in term of number of parti- duct”) OR ″personal care products")) AND (((((((((consumption) OR cipants in the sample and/or in term of number of products in- ″usage pattern”) OR ″usage patterns”) OR ″use pattern”) OR ″use pat- vestigated) or small in scale (i.e. focused on few product types and/or terns”) OR ″use-pattern") OR ″use-patterns")) OR ((((((exposure) OR focused on a specific subpopulation). Furthermore, many epidemiolo- ″aggregate exposure”) OR ″skin exposure”) OR ″dermal exposure”) OR gical studies conducted in 2010s provided additional cosmetic con- ″inhalation exposure”) OR ″probabilistic exposure")). The research on sumption data. In fact, these studies aimed to evaluate the association PubMed was done on title and on abstract. The query string was used in between cosmetic products or cosmetic ingredients consumption and Scopus to write the same equation. The research was performed on title, adverse events observed in a population. Epidemiological studies were abstract and keywords. As the consumption habits of cosmetic products generally conducted on hundreds or even thousands of people and evolve over time, we chose not to take into account the few studies could be an interesting additional source of information on cosmetic's published before 2000. The data generated could be very far from usage patterns. All of these new data are valuable for safety assessors. current consumption habits. All articles published between January In Europe, a safety assessment is based on the safety of the in- 2000 and February 2018 were taken into account. gredients found into each cosmetic product (EU, 2009). The daily co- use of cosmetics and consequently the aggregate exposure to in- 2.2. Selection of studies for review(Fig. 1) gredients found in these different products is not taken into account in the guidelines of the SCCS, except for preservatives for which an ag- All summaries identified through database searching were read: gregate daily consumption value was defined (SCCS, 2015). However, 3479 references in PubMed and 7071 references in Scopus. Original most of cosmetic products, such as shower gel, deodorant, toothpaste, articles reporting data on human consumption (percentage of users, hand soap, perfume, face cream, mascara, lipstick or wipes, are used on frequency of use, amount of product used, number of products used a daily basis. A survey conducted among more than 2300 people in the daily, number of products co-used etc …) and/or on the human ex- United States showed that, on average, adult women used 12 products posure to cosmetic products were considered for the next step. No re- per day and on the other hand, adult men used 6 products daily (EWG, striction was performed on the country of origin, on the population 2004). Another study recently conducted on 7131 French people studied or on the written language. All the publications which did not showed that, on average, adult women daily used 16 products, adult generated human consumption data were excluded as well as publica- men daily used 8 products and 6 products were daily used by parents tions that reported and/or used previously published consumption data. for their baby aged 0–3 (Ficheux et al., 2015). Therefore, aggregate Consumption data reported only on the last 24 or 48 h in some epide- exposure models for ingredients found in cosmetic products were de- miological studies were excluded.