Dublin to Cork

C O N TE N TS

D ublin to Cork Newbridge Kildare Maryborough Roscrea Thurles Holy Cross Cashel

L c B t a t imerick Jun tion , ut ev n Mallow Cork

Queenstown Harbour

Pa a s w ss ge , Queen to n

H aulbowli n e C a , rossh ven E xcursions from Cork Rostellan an d Cloyne Blarney Youghal The Blackwater Cappoquin Mount Melleray Lismore Fermoy Limerick Junction to Waterford Mitchelstown Clonmel Waterford Waterford to Rosslare To Waterford from Dublin CONTENTS

Kilkenny J erpoin t To Killarney— (l ) Direct Route (2) Prince of Wales Route to Killarney Bandon Bantry Glengariﬁe Castletown B erehaven Kenmare (3 ) Macroom Route to Killarn ey Killarney Gap of D unlo e and the Lakes Muckross Abbey Mangerton

The R eeks .

a Va a t rv e and Parkn asilla Kill rney to lenti , Wa e ill

K a D n e Gallerus K a a ill rney to i gl , , ilm lked r B LACK’ S GUID E TO KI L LARNE Y

APPROACHES TO IRELAND

The hours of passage given below are of course only approximate . The lowest saloon fares for the single journey are alon e

t F o r t ta s see the sa s s the quo ed . fur her de il , iling bill of different Companies or the useful list of steamers at the ” B a s aw end of r d h .

1 . To D UB L I N A N D D I STRI CT

Ho u rs S i n gle

Rou te . o f Steam er C o m an Sai li n s . S aloo n p y . g F Passa e are . g .

H l h a ! 1 5 o y e d to Ki n gstown 2% Ci ty of D u blin Steam 2 daily 0 . P ack et H o l head to Ki n s w L N y g to n 3 . 8; . H ol head to D u lin N 3 } y b ( . 1 Wall)

L i ver ool D 13 5 . 6d p to ubli n City of D u bli n Steam . Pac et an d o th rs k , e Ted castle L i n e Glasgo w to D u bli n B urn s (Roy al Mail) vi a B elfast vi a ree d ir G n o ck , ec t L ai rd L i n c H ey sham to D u bli n L ai rd L i n e L on do n to D u bli n B riti sh an d I ri sh Steam P ac et C o m an L d k p y , t . P ort smou th to D u lin B I P b . . S . C o . S outhamp ton to D ubli n P lymou th to D u bli n F almo u th to D u bli n Silloth to D u l in D u li n i ll h n I b b , S o t a d sle ,

o f M an S teamers .

S n d a i n l u c u d d . x d y e 1 S u n d ay s e cepte . APPROACHES TO IRELAND— conti n u ed

2. To S OU TH A N D WE S T IRE L AN D

F i sh u ard to Ro ssl are rea es rn i lwa 2 d ail g G t W te Ra y . y F i shgu ard to Wat erfo rd D aily F i sh guard t o C o rk Ci ty o f C ork Steam P ack et 3 a week B ri stol to C o rk 1 a week P ly mou th to Cork 1 a w eek L i verp o ol to Cork 3 a week L o n d o n to C ork 1 a week S o uthampto n to C o rk 1 a week l d i L o n don t o Waterford C y e Sh p p i n g C o . 1 a week a i d L i verp o ol to Waterfo rd W terfO Steamshi p C O . 3 a week B ri sto l to Waterfo rd 2 a week Glasgow to S ligo L ai rd L i n e 2 a week l de hi i n 2 a w e Glasgow to Wat erford C y S p p g C o . e k C o r 2 a wee ’ k k L i verp ool to Wes tp o rt Laird Li n e 1 a week to B alli n a Altern ate Glasgow an d Westp ort S aturd ay s

1 1 f r n o r at n see . 3 3 8 For t 3 . u her i f m io pp , BLACK’ S GUID E TO IRELAND (KILLA ‘RNEY SE CTION)

’ A Rai lwa Gu i de Offi c e B achelor 5 Wal D u li n an d al C. I ri sh ci B . [The Ofﬁ . y ( , k, b ) , ’ B I ri sh Gu i de U er S ac ville S treet D u l i n ost F al con er s A . . C. ( pp k , b ) ; p d ea h are recomm en ded free, 5 . c , !

P age i n S UMMER S TEAMERS thi s book

—A steamer run s b etw n Y hal and 122 B St am . . lackwater e ers ee oug m f 3 0. The ti es o Cappo qu in from early i n J u n e to S ept . i n each d rect on var w n 0 A . M . an d P . M . de artur bet e 8 . 3 7 p e, e i i , y ord n to the t d an d o n certa n da s t er are n o sa n s acc i g i e , i y h e ili g

fro m on e en d .

E di r n le 25 . an d 1 5 . 6d . F A R S or n a . S ( y ) i g , an d 5 Return , 3 5 . 2 .

F or deta s a l ecr tar Y ou a an d Blackwat r il pp y S e y , gh l e

Touri st Steamshi O Ltd Y o u hal . p C . , . , g

rf d t a Wate or S e mers . r oo un Wed F ri B el ast Sa To Li ve l S . . To f , t . p , . B ri stol Tues , . Lon don , S at . Cork Th urs . ,

N ewhaven S at . D 4 P M . over Sat . , , , P M d i l 5 . F i sh ua rd a . g , y ’ mou th wed ' P ly ’ M n ed a u Gl o W . o t asgow, . , b

m ton S at . 4 P M 1 P M S ou tha . . . . p , ,

S UMMER CARS

’ d s C ss S tat t o Ca h —Car eaves if assen ers 98 . . Gool ro ion s el l , p g

a M M. o ffer, t A . . ; R

F 25 d are 6 . ea w s c a . . h y “ 2 a tr to K a e Pr n ce o f Wales Rou te — b Mo t r 14 . B n y ill rn y ( i y o - - a Char a b ncs) . M P . . de B an try p . a ri tfe arr Gl en g r . n e mo rn i n A M D ep . xt g . . from Gl en garri ffe m r arr Ken a e .

P . M .

Kill arn ey B antry

' M n b M r ha - -ban c acroom to Gle garri ﬁe ( y oto C r a ) .

A . M . P . M . Macro om Killarn e see a o e y ( b v ) .

P . M n arr ﬂ Gl i e . . e g dep Keiman eigh K eiman eigh

Gl en garri ffe Macro om Killarn e see abo y ( ve) . Page i n SUMMER CARS — con ti n ued thi s book

- hi r n rk i ll 1 65 6 . Ca ci vee to Pa n as a

Gran d Atlanti c C ast rou t — b Motor C a -a-ban c ( o e y h r ) .

Parkn asilla Waterville

’ ’

P arkn asilla arr . Cahi rci veen

1 -6 arknasi lla to Ken a e b M t r C ara -ban e P . 65 . m r ( y o o h )

A . M . P . M . P . M .

Parkn asilla 9 5 1 2. 3 0 1 45 . . Ken mare

Ken mare

Parkn asilla

l F or F ares an al other detai ls of above i l otor S ervi ces app ly to Tou ri st M swor h r et D u bli n m n t I relan d L td . 3 0 ole t S t e , . D evelop e ( ), , L I S T O F MA P S

Cork (Plan)

S ’ t . Finn B arr s Cathedral

III . Queenstown Harbour

Blarney District

V l n arifi e an d K a I . G e g enm re

V K a . ill rney

V K a a d a I. ill rney n W terville

Killarney an d Cork District

IL L U S TRATI ON S

Mu k c ross Abbey Frontisp i ece

Co Pa S rk, trick treet Faci ngp age 104

Blarney Castle 118

R B a wa L iver l ck ter, ismore 122

’

K St. Ca Ca a ilkenny, nice s thedr l 13 6

Gap of B anloc 154 M DUB PRO LIN TO CORK.

T — a G a an his route , the m in line of the re t Southern d Western Ra wa —w c a s t a a a c lo il y, hi h le d hrough very ple s nt stret h of w a t 165 s a w t l nd coun ry , lies for mile in south es direction . The c t a are a a w oun ies p ssed through , gener lly spe king, ell a A a c an d at c he cultiv ted . bund n e of sheep of c tle rop t green a an d a s an d a h w . e c p stures , give look of pro perity e lth T s enery on both sides of the railway line affords at times picturesque w a a s and a a vie s of mount in r nges , full river , luxuri nt pl ins . The railway touches many towns of great antiquarian fame an d t t w - a C a interes , runs hrough the orld celebr ted urr gh of a an d B o A Kild re , skirts the g of llen .

C onda ki n 4 D l a w l l , } miles from ub in, possesses ﬁne round to er,

a . The w 85 the ne rest one to the metropolis to er, feet high , a at a a a wa and i s st nds convenient dist nce from the r il y , sur a c ca It can a the mounted by oni l top . be scended from

a a I a. a inside by series of l dders . t possesses singul r pro ecti n a a 13 a acc j g b se ne rly feet in height, simil r, ording to P a at Roscarber an d t etrie , to th t y ; bo h , in this respect, s ca Brunless B c c It has re embled the stle of in re kno kshire . no “ s the a and c the dressing to pertures , is onsidered one of h a a st . T e c a M c e rlie chur h of Clond lkin was founded by St. o hu ’

the h c an d as ti a s . T in 7t entury, w for some me bishop see here a a an d t an d a a t w is h ndsome modern church conven , mon s ery ith a t tw s who t at bou enty monk , devote heir lives to the educ ion of a has a youth . Clond lkin been remark ble for some centuries for i ts a - an d has at the a an d p per mills, present l rgest most modern I a in rel nd .

F i d Haz lha ch a 10 a a rom Celbr ge ( e t ) St tion , 1 miles , good ro d goes direct north -west to Maynooth through the pretty village

C w c 1 the a . It was of elbridge, hi h is 5 mile from st tion here “ a M Va w D a Sw t a Van th t iss nhomrigh lived, hom e n if n med e a an d Ma A s c t a the w ss in rley bbey , her re iden e, ook pl ce ell c t T a had w tt to known s ene between hem . his l dy ri en the Dean asking him whether the report of his marriage with NAAS— NEWBRIDGE— KILDARE 93

S el a was . In Sw an d a t l true reply, ift hurried hither, ngrily c M Va a w the onfronting iss nhomrigh , d shed do n letter before

an d w w t a w . She a her, ent ithou ord died soon fter.

8 H otels R a Ra wa C a aa Naas . 3 6 : N (pop 3 oy l , il y, ommerci l ; s Railway Station 20 miles from D ublin) is a thriving market and a w w t a a a ac w a an d at f ir to n , i h milit ry b rr ks , to n h ll , ne - t Naas was the a the L . Of cour house . se t of einster kings its still earlier greatness the B ath is the sole relic left . N a an d a a w a all orm n l ter mon steries ere built, but they h ve a a dis ppe red .

The name Naas ron unced Nase i s derived fr m Nas a fair or meet (p o ) o , ” i n - la g p ce. It i s 20 miles fr m D u blin b road from the Curra h 8 Blessin t n 8 ) o y , g , g o , an d less than 15 from Ki ure the l oft northern basti on of the Wi ckl w pp , y o hills .

TH E H I LL OF ALLE N 6 6 to , 7 feet , is seen the right from the a a S t at r ilway before re ching Newbridge tation . I is situ ed in the Bo A a a but n ow a g of llen, origin lly of very gre t extent, p rtly ai recl med .

Newbri cl e H otels A C wn the n t g ( : lbert, ro ) is most co venien

tat the Curra h f Ki 2 the s a . s ion for g o ldare ( § miles), one of ﬁne t r ce “ s and as a a - the course in the kingdom, used r ce course from

a s a J o ce . a an a a e rlie t ges ( y ) It is lso important milit ry c mp, the a a th D he a C a he dqu rters of the 7 ivi sion. T pl in of the urr gh the the C w an d c a a 0 a is property of ro n , ont ins bout 5 00 cres of Si r m a a . T a beautiful green p stur ge W . emple bout 1600was the me ans of obtaining a Government grant of £100 to be run for annually on the Curragh race -course with the view of encouraging I It af a a the breed of rish horses . forded p r de ground for the V s 17 83 an d U I m 18 olunteer in , for the nited rish en in 04. A large number of mound s an d earthworks are still to be seen on it . T i s a G f-Cou se at C a a here ol r the urr gh , l rgely used by mem a s and bers of the g rri on others .

“ The Curra h i s the N ewmar et of Ireland o g k , f r here are the training ” sta les for Punchestown Fair h us L a b , o e eo rdstown B aldo le etc . y , p , y ,

Ki a e o . 1576 K a H n ot c ld r (p p ; ild re otel) is the ounty town . It w c s a st c T is , ho ever , of on ider ble hi ori interest . he c onvert B 5th t B c the N St. ridget, in the cen ury , ere ted unnery of ridget, 94 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK

’ Kildare s a w holy f me , in hich the nuns for seven hundred years ” a a a t H L dr s m int ined the inextinguish ble ﬁre , un il enry de on e , A c s D 1220 a a r hbi hop of ublin, extinguished it in it w s fterwards a ut H V II rekindled, but ﬁn lly p out in the reign of enry I . In 6 A oal D u bh Bla H 3 8 , , or ck ugh , retired from the throne of Lein s ta a A t a M a a d ter to ke up his bode in the ugus ini n on stery, n a wa s ca A and B K a f fter rd be me bbot ishop of ild re , one of the ew instances on record of a crown an d sceptre being resigned for a d The 13 at mitre an crosier . th century C hedra l has been care o b Mr S r e a fully rest red y . t eet . Th unusu l form of the nave wa and a a c lls the south tr nsept deserve speci l noti e . The n ew a w top of the centr l to er is uncommon .

The Carmelite Abbey is situated on the south side . of the The a was L l a i town . origin l founder ord Wi li m de Vesc (1260) ’ was G a F -Ma O Fale e the completion of it left to er ld itz urice y . D esci a 1290 an a w a s In V lso founded , in , bbey for hite fri r , the c a b the a a i s a s c a ou chur hy rd , close y c thedr l, ﬁne pe imen of R nd a The a ca Tower bout 103 feet in height . origin l coni l top has and now b a been removed, the tower is surmounted y sort of M S ac i a parapet or battlement . iss tokes pl es t mong the earlier “ ” and at s buildings of the kind , notes th the dres ings of the windows an d doors are of the same stone as the rest but its date has been hotly disputed .

M n s a 0 a an a o a terevan (pop . bout 80 ) is so c lled from bbey M b St. E E th . founded y imhin , or vin, in the 7 century oore A a t i s n ow s bbey , on the site of the older est blishmen , the re i c the M a E a D a w a den e of oore f mily ( rl of roghed ) , hich c me to ’ Ireland in Elizabeth s reign . 1943 H otels Portarlington (Refreshment Rooms ; pop . ’ ’ Brown s Fen elly s) is an ancient borough situated on the river Ba d w the a wa a t w. L A s rro or rlington , to hom est te gr n ed by

C a II . w c t w h rles , formed the port on the river, from hi h the o n a a It Ea the Daw w s n med Portarlington . gives the title of rl to son

a c Emo Pa . F c H f mily , the demesne of whi h is rk ren h uguenots settled here at the close of the l 6th century an d built many ﬁne residences . 2 o l H a M r b r u Marrbro . 9 H te s : a y o o gh pop 57 iberni n, ’ Aird s a a t Ma w e the t , etc. n med f er Queen ry, in hos reign coun y s a s Ma an d was i t w . B w formed , the s ize o n et een ryborough “ ” S a a ast R c D un -a- a w c was tr db lly (e ) is the o k of m ise, hi h for w t oak n ow t merly completely covered i h ﬁne trees, but is qui e ROSCREA 95

“ ts a a s ss Mas who was bare . I n me me n the fortre of g, one of s L s T was s t the the ancestor of the ein ter people . his the i e of

MacMorrou h K L . It was castle of g , ing of einster frequently he I an d a a a b E taken by t rish , g in rec ptured y the nglish .

“ o ic hus descri es the s ot. The roc i s accessi le onl D r. L dw k t b p k b y on id hi ch i n i ts i m roved state was defen ded b r i the eastern s e w , y a ba b can . , , p From th e barbi can y ou advan ce to the gate of the lower balli um (3 12 feet hen arri v at he ate of he u er alli um whi h di ameter . Yo u t e t t p b c i s laced ) g p , p in a tower ; an d from thi s begin the walls whi ch di vide the u pp er and lower n he hi hest oin was the ee and he a a m n s balli um. O t t k t rt e t for g p p , p

oﬂi cers .

Thi s place was originally the royal residence of Laoi sach Hy

Moradh . The a the a c Lai seach found tion of fortress is s ribed to g , rd c The H -Moradh a ca early in the 3 entury . y f mily be me united the H -Morra hs an d c r s as t with y g , hen e the fort e s p sed in o the

a ami L st . W Eva a D i t roy l f ly of ein er ith , d ughter of ermot, passed into the hands of Strongbow and hi s daughter brought a a w to W li a E a Ma s a who s c a it s do ry il m rl r h ll, uc eeded his f ther - i n law as E a P . The cas w c t are rl of embroke tle , of hi h here n ow s a i s a to a cc n only light rem ins , scribed the l tter o upier . I 13 25 ’ th e a t O More ot ss s an d e heredit ry proprie or , , g po es ion, k pt it a an d a a the E wa III a for four ye rs g in, in time of d rd . , his f mily o a he held i t for tw ye rs . T town is s omewhat overshadowed by the c t L a c A presen e of its errible un ti sylum . From B a llybrop hy (662miles from D ublin) a branch line to Limerick passes

Ro ea . 2825 H otels : P ta A a scr (pop or rlington rms, very a c t a -t w a 620 a c n ien m rket o n , m de in into bishopri , which in the 12 h was t . t d to cent uni e Killaloe . It is surrounded by a rich t act at the S B M a r the foot of lieve loom ount ins . The western

a the c c w - a a g ble of hur h, ith its round he ded door, is prob bly part the 1 1th t a t a t a of cen ury bbey buil on the found tion of h t of S t. “ C a 7th t . The S St. C a ron n of the cen ury hrine of ron n, a c w a ca the C c s a broken ross ith rving of ru iﬁxion , t nds in the c c a . N a the c c a Rou nd Tower hur hy rd e r hur h there is , of simil ar a to at at K a In 113 d te th ild re . 5 its summit was displaced by lightning.

The Book o D innm n ow in i n f , Tr ity Colle e D ublin a e bel n ed to g , (p g o g the A e of R screa bb y o .

On e the t w the a l of K a of o ers of c st e ing John still st nds, as 96 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK also the castle erected by the Ormon des in the reign of Henry

VIII. an d n ow o a ta a ac , the dep t t ched to the b rr ks . A portion of the Franciscan friary founded in 1490 is n ow part of the a a c c Rom n C tholi hurch .

Birr Parsons own 12 . R c a a or t , m north of os re , is f mous for the a c t c L R gig nti reﬂector eles ope erected here by ord osse in 1842. It 6 f a an d 60 n is eet in di meter feet lo g .

’ m 2 4 ~ H el h Tem e ore O . 77 ot T e A a pl (p p Queen s rms) , some w a ca w has a a w - n ew c Ad h t de yed to n, l rge ell built chur h . join w the P a Sir C Ca B a ing the to n is riory, the se t of John . rden, rt . , a c Th a one of the most be utiful in the ounty . e m nsion is a a an a modern , but the entr nce is through portion of ncient

‘ a K T a The W c are c stle of the nights empl r . grounds , hi h well w an d a b a wa are he ooded , dorned y ﬁne sheet of ter, open to t c On t t a are the s a publi . the sou hern side of his l ke ruin of a a w the a t b a l rge squ re keep, hile northern shore is orn men ed y a a c i ts w t wa a portion of mon stic chur h , exhibiting in es ern ll c ﬁne Gothi window. ’ he Devi s Bit M a ca a a t T l ount ins, so lled from g p in the summi , c the a wa to the are for some miles conspicuous obje ts from . r il y - T P H a t north west of emplemore . rimitive iberni n geology old how his grim Majesty bit out a part of the ridge an d deposited it ” a a wa s c R c Ca . in the pl in, fter rd to be ome the o k of shel

R a we to ejoining the m in line , go on 4411 H otel : an a t w Thurles (pop . ncient o n , origin ’ a a D a O Fo art . In l oth c t was the lly c lled , url s g y the en ury it a I s D a The a scene of the defe t of the ri h by the nes . origin l castle is supposed to have formed part of the preceptory of the K T a A c ca t was a t wa t b nights empl r . se ond s le f er rds buil y a B w c a t was c at V t J mes utler, one of hose des end n s re ed iscoun Th A w - a at urles . ell preserved tower of this castle st nds the he e bridge . T t own is the seat of the Roman Catholic archdio ces

as The a a St. Pat c was ct at a c t of C hel . C thedr l of ri k ere ed os of There are a large Catholic College and an Ursuli ne

. In c was 18 50 the S T convent the ollege held , in , ynod of hurles , all a at c a composed of the Rom n C holi bishops of Irel nd . Ho Cross Abbe 4 s T a the ly y is mile from hurles , ne r line of

a wa and 9 Ca a a . r il y, from shel (only sm ll inns in vill ge) T e i s mu h e It s w w h re c left of this int resting ruin . i ell orth

98 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK from that on the north side a staircase leads up to the substantial tower . Of c and a w the loisters mon stery buildings , here the Cistercian are a t a brotherhood lived, there only the sc n iest remn nts .

The title of its dedi cation i s attributed to the p ossessi on of a pi ece of the r n d ed tru e Cross rese ted b PO e Paschal I I to h p ete , p n y p . Murtag , monarch of

ll Ireland in the ear 1110. Thi s reli c set i n old an d adorn d a , y , g e wi th preci ous stones was preserved i n the abbe until the Reformati on when i t was saved , y , h famil of rmon d I i s said to h en na l by t e y O e. t ave be ﬁ l y deli vered to the a ho i c hi erarch of hi s di stri ct Roman C t l y t .

he a as E a H C was a a a T bbot, rl of oly ross , peer in p rli ment was ca - a C st c a Ir he , moreover , vi r gener l of the i er i n order in e a G at t s c a i ta s l nd . re mul itude , in luding m ny mpor nt per ons , m a a a i ts s t but at the de pilgrim ges to the bbey in pro peri y , D was a wi all its a a tat s the issolution it gr nted , th v lu ble es e , to a he a a 1 Earl of Ormonde t t nnu l rent of £ 5. ’ Goold s Cross a S ee a 8gmiles beyond Thurles is st tion . pink p ge .

’ ’ 3 000 H otels : S wa t s C c a s 6 Cashel (pop . ; te r , or or n ), % miles ’ M s was c c the s st . from Goold s Cro s , on e the residen e of king of un er

was b St . Pat c who is sa to a A synod held there y ri k , id h ve F or a t i a h founded the church . long ime t w s t e seat of an c n ow to at E Wa an d L archbishopri , united th of mly, terford , i s

t at a s c . more . I is still the se of bi hopri In the town i s a very handsome modern cross to the memory of Archbishop Croke . a an d s a The country round i s rich exten ive pl in, out of which the Rock of Cashel rises with great boldness an d abrupt a 3 00 t an d a c ness to the height of bout fee , , but for the bsen e a t a a a at the of se , migh remind the im gin tive of cert in fe ures of ’

a t M c a M t . On su i t is a romantic situ tion of S . i h el s oun its mm “ a w c ss an d magniﬁcent assembl ge of ruins , hi h , though rooﬂe at s ta a wi ndowless and greatly sh tered , till s nd up in lmost their ” a T c i t original height from their splendid pl tform . hey ons s of ’ a ac c a na c a t w a cathedr l, Corm s h pel, mo sti buildings, round o er, and a great stone cross . ’ The most ancient are prob ably the Round Tower and Cormac s a Ch pel .

“ -T a P t an d The Cathedral . his is in the e rly ointed s yle , - a U the of later date than the above mentioned ch pel . nder CASHEL 99

are a an d t a and a . N tower h ndsome lof y rches , groined roof ote a a ca c ha and the good e rly r ding of the ncel , the depressed tops a a c s nd curved b ses of the lere tory lights . I a 1 4 5 the E a K a n the ye r 9 turbulent rl of ild re, desiring to

r A c s C a ca a . It re dest oy r hbi hop re gh , set ﬁre to the thedr l is “ at a c s hi s t an d a a corded th he re dily onfes ed guil , dded th t he w a a a c never ould h ve done it, but th t he thought the r hbishop ’ a a t The ca an d c w s within t the ime . ndour simpli ity of hi s confession convinced King Henry that he could not be capable of the intrigues and duplicity with which he had been charged ; an d when the Bishop of Meath c oncluded the last a w w You all I a arti cle of the impe chment ith the ords , see rel nd ’ ‘ ‘ a a a h c nnot rule this gentlem n, the king inst ntly replied , fl en ’ a all I a an d w a he sh ll rule rel nd , forth ith ppointed him to the ” - a a he a a s a lord lieuten ncy of th t kingdom . T c thedr l i con or a D s c spi cuous object f m ny miles round . ivine ervi e continued w A c s P to be performed ithin it until the time of r hbi hop rice , who i n 1752 removed the roof from the choir an d converted the whole into a ruin .

’ ‘ Corma s Cha e was a C ac M Carth c p l prob bly built by orm y , M an d B s Ca a a 1 12 King of unster i hop of shel , bout the ye r 7 a an d the t a A . D though its found tion , omb it enshrines h ve been generally assigned to Cormac MacCu lli n ai n or Cormac ’ h a a the l h llen t e s ot c . It O Ci . e rlier dignit rie , of entury is a he i an d an d c a prob bly t r chest most interesting, ert inly the best preserved of all the ancient Roman esqu e churches in Ire B wa w t a a an d land . oth the door ys , i h their el bor te mouldings t m an u m- c are c s an d uncommon y p s ulpture, fine spe imen , the use a c B u t the c of the rosette orn ment should be noti ed . hief are 1 a overcro ts c s tw features ( ) the roof ch mbers or f , en lo ed be een the b arrel vaulting of both nave an d chanc el an d the steeply The sa c st c w pitched roof above . me on ru tion ill be found in the K an d Glen dalou h t w chapels at ells g , hough these ere built some s 2 The two towers a are a a 200 year before . ( ) lso r re dditions ; their ru de simplicity and girding bands may be compared to the M a mou h 1 D a S axon work of onk We r t tower ( 075) in urh m . The ’ elaborate carving on the mouldings and walls within afiords a B c -w good specimens of Norm n designs . esides the ri hly orked o ha u s tomb o Cormac w a sarc p g , there is the f , from hich c me the ” i w L w n ow D fine bronze croz er , covered ith imoges ork , in ublin 100 FROM DUBLIN TO CORK

M In a ma a useum . the l tter museum y lso be seen the silver a an d a a p ten e rly bell discovered in this ch pel .

The R und Tower tw 80 and 90 t o , be een fee in height, is con sidered by Miss Stokes to be earlier than those at Glendalough and K . O wa a a c an ilkenny ver the door y is the e rly r h , d though ” the t are cut an d s he s ones cemented , the dre sings of t are a at a as wa windows of the s me m eri l the lls . It will be a i s a noticed th t this , unlike the other buildings , of s ndstone . In a c w a a the s me en losure of this eird, de d city is the ncient ss The w w as a Cro . stone belo it is kno n the coron tion stone of ” the K s M - a Li a Fa the s t On ing of unster sort of il of ou h . a a c c c c c can t rac an d the side c rving of on entri ir les be s ill t ed , “ ’ ” tradition has it that it was a Druid s altar ; it may be the - the a an d a the a t oldest stone work in pl ce, mong most ncien a carvings in Irel nd . Parts of the dormitory an d other portions of the Monasti c i ldi n s a a the Ca a Bu g rem in ne r thedr l . Of the two 13 th century religious houses once standing in w s the D omtn tcan Pri or s t the town belo , ruin of one, y , till exis , At the bottom of the rock is the extensive ruin of

—The w and a s t Ea Here Abbey. to er g ble of his ( rly Pointed) church are seen about half mile to the right on leaving the “ ” a It was a a B gate of the C shel enclosure . origin lly ene a 12 2 D a MacCarvi ll A c s o f dicti ne mon stery, but in 7 vid , r hbi hop

a as hi s t wa a a t a C shel , being , he told mo her, fore rned in dre m h t a B c s t to cu t off a the bl ck monks or enedi tine in ended his he d , an d s t ac w n banished them , upplied heir pl es ith mo ks of the a w H A an d Cisterci n order, for hom he founded ore bbey , en a B c s dowed i t with the forfeited l nds of the enedi tine .

A D Cas to the - a t a 12 FE TH R is 10 miles from hel south e s , bout

Ca an d 8 C . T w a miles from her, from lonmel his to n is rem rkable for the wonderful preservation of some of its walls an d forti ﬁca

ct the K . On e a tions , ere ed in time of ing John of the entr nces to

t w a ca a a c wa . The a the o n is through stell ted r h y bbey, founded a the 14th has an d st s e rly in century , been restored, is ill u ed . This is n ot to be confounded with another town of the same name

Co . W . 1 3 3 in exford , p .

’ n 98 Leavi g Goold s Cross (p . ) the MAIN LINE continues KILMALLOCK— BUTTEVANT 101

w s a D an d a s through the ood ne r undrum , bene th the gentle lopes a L c ct 1 0 r of the Tipper ry hills to imeri k Jun ion , 7 miles f om D n an d 21 r L c ubli , 2miles f om imeri k

At t n H otel : G. S C r Limerick Junc io ( outhern), the line to o k h L c an d at he B ac is intersected by t e imeri k W erford line . (T l k water an d Youghal may be conveniently visited from Mallow

ct a t to C . S a a Jun ion , or f er proceeding ork ) hortly fter p ssing Limerick Junction we obtain good views of the Galtee mountains - a in the left hand dist nce .

Ki lmallock (124; miles) derives its name from an abbey

b Mochcallo th . At an a founded y St. g in the 7 century e rly period it was a favourite place of residence of the nobility and t and was a a t wa gen ry , formerly surrounded by gre t s one ll t w t a a and a a for iﬁed i h mound of e rth, h ving four imposing g te a s an d w s T n ow a a s w y to er . hough pr ctic lly in ruin , the build The 1ngs l n the time of the Roundheads were extensive . older s a The A houses are till surrounded with b ttlements . bbey

Church and the D ominican Priory deserve a visit . L ou h Gar 10 K a a g , miles north of ilm llock , is of gre t interest to a a a who c a w w ntiqu ri ns , will ﬁnd the prehistori rem ins ell orth e insp ction .

At C a 129 Hotel : I a a a wa h rleville ( 1 miles mperi l) , nother r il y t L ta c 25 i e t un rk junc ion for imerick (dis n e m les) , w en er Co ty Co , the a I a The e c l rgest of the shires of rel nd . west rn surfa e of the t ta n a t an d a an d coun y is moun i ous, th t on the nor h e st is rich

- ' t . In the a S a ata c thou h old fer ile south e st the iluri n str rop up , g a an d ta red s ndstone moun in limestone prevail elsewhere . Copper an d a are a a he ar co l found mong its miner ls . T chief crops e w a a a . The ma a a he t, o ts , pot toes, etc cli te is rem rk bly mild , but a c a a an d w The c lso humid, espe i lly in utumn inter . ounty is well watered small lakes are numerous in i t the rivers Lee and Ba w s t an d the B ac t ndon hold their hole cour e hrough it, l kwa er, al the a a wat wa af s a t a ong gre ter p rt of its er y, ford f cili ies for inl nd a at b a as far as Ca n vig ion y b rges ppoquin in Waterford .

B te ant 13 was ca Bothion a wa d K a ut v ( 7i ) once lled , fter r s iln “ a mull gh . It giveth name unto that ancient citie which Kilne ” a ole ed is en er On a c a the A e mull h p of old (Sp s ) . ro k bove wb g is B a Ca t he a a s uttev nt s le . T town t one time cont ined numerou ’ s and a a a a S hou es m ny m nsions of the gentry , but lre dy in penser s 102 FROM D UBLIN TO CORK

“ a a r t and it i time the r gged ruins breed gre t u h p t e. The Fran ci scan A B a was E wa b bbey of uttev nt founded inthe reign of d rd I . y

D a B a . the s a vid de rry Judging from present ruin , it must h ve a at The cas been house of gre splendour . t window should be

. B a t i s n ow an ta t a t observed uttev n impor n g rrison own . F - a ta KI L COLMAN A ive miles north e st of the s tion is C STLE , the t S s w a the home of poe pen er, here he wrote considerable

F aeri e u een e. D on erai le Park c t portion of the Q , on e the proper y S a 6 - a a F of penser, is bout miles south e st on the ro d to ermoy .

Mallow (1445; H otel : The Royal) is a town of 4542 i h a ta a t t at the B a wa w c i s h bi nts , be u ifully si u ed on l ck ter, hi h a a Pa crossed here by a ﬁne vi duct of ten rches . ssengers for the ct K a G a S an d W dire route to ill rney, by the re t outhern estern Ra wa a at Ma w w c a a ct F il y, ch nge llo , hi h is lso jun ion for ermoy, a on and Wa L L D un r a c . The ismore , g v , terford ; lso for imeri k ss a t a s c t town po esses epid miner l pring, formerly mu h frequen ed , Ma w a the s . In the i s C but n ow de erted neighbourhood llo stle , a Norre s On the s t the t w seat of Sir D enh m y . i e of o n formerly Cas an d the t i t a t b the stood Short tle , on sou h of no her built y

D e 1 641 . At the esmonds, but d stroyed during the rebellion of a t a re eshment-room a ac s a st tion here is good ﬂ , f t unu u l enough on an Irish railway to be specially noted .

104 CORK

1493 Ma r C was a and honours in , the yo of ork h nged the city s c a The a was 1 . 609. H s lo t its h rter ch rter restored in olin hed , c w a 1 5 the ta o the chroni ler, riting bout 77 , thus describes s te f the city of Cork

On the lan d side they are enc umbered with evil n eighbors— the Iri sh outlaws that the are fain to watch heir a s ho li e hem hu , y t g te ur , to keep t s t ervi e-time an d a meal fr n at s c , t es, om sun to sun , n or suffer an i e stra ger to r h i i e wi h hi ea n u h ente t e c t t s w po , b t t e same to leave at a l odge app ointed . lk u a n f r e a ni They wa s o t t seaso s o r cre ti on with p ower of men fur shed . The tru st n ot the c untri e adj oi ni n but match i n wedlocke amon them y o g, g h whol i i s l i n h h i n selves onli e, so that t e e c ty we ln gh li nked o e to t e ot er ” afﬁniti e.

D P t a C a was uring the ro ector te , ork held out for Ch rles , but a In 1 0 r Ma in 1649surprised n d taken . 69 it sur endered to rl It a a c b a a borough . is corpor te ity , being governed y m yor,

‘ I s s s a a and s . t ldermen, councillor pos e se number of very s a and are a a e p cious streets , there m ny ﬁne vill s on the slop s a Lee a s c a of the hill bove the , besides the l rge re iden es bove the H a In S a S a C H Macli se rbour . he rs treet, ne r the ourt ouse , ﬁrst da and S a K w was the saw the light of y , herid n no les born in adjoinin g James Street . The ch armi ng gaiety an d frankness of the southern Irish a The a I ri sh Sketch B oole was ladies is proverbi l . uthor of the ”

a a . I saw w an t quite carried w y never , he rote, in y coun ry such a general grace of m anner and ladyhood and in this a he did n ot speak only of the upper cl sses . who w 3 0 at K a The lines of Spenser , lived ithin miles , ilcolm n , put the chief physical features of the city in a nutshell

“ e tha li e an i sland fa re The spreading L e t, k y , d d E ncloseth Corke with hi s divide ﬁoo e.

The principal modern streets are in that porti on of the town

a a . known as the isl nd , bounded lmost completely by the river This island is connected with the shores on either side by several bridges spanning the stream both on the south an d on the north .

PARN E LL B RID GE is on the south branch of the Lee . ’ s the t a c the . ST. PaTRc s BRI D GE cros es nor hern br n h of river ct 1798 w c was It occupies the site of the old bridge ere ed in , hi h 1 851 an d i s a an partially destroyed by a ﬂood in , it bro der th any bridge over the Thames except that at Westminster .

CORK 105

N T B RID GE a PARLIAME is on the south side , le ding into the a South M ll . ’ r k s St a a s t a St. Pat ic reet , the ple s nte t horoughf re of the ’

w w wa St . Pa c s B w a city , s eeps est rds from tri k ridge ith curve a s as ac as t a H S t O lmo t gr eful h t of igh tree , xford ; but the t a At buildings are quite unwor hy of rem rk . the upper end of he t as n ow a Sac S D a at to t stree , lso in kville treet, ublin, is st ue Mathew F ather .

“ - n s l f Tem eran e wa a a u hin dev The well k own Apo t e o p c s C p c , oted to and beloved b the oor folk of Cork. H e started hi s reat crusade , y p g d h s la ours in E n lan a d me i a ai n st dri nk i n 183 8 and exten ed i b to d n A r ca. g , g Under the great stress of hi s work and ﬁn anci al di ﬁi culti es i n 1856 he broke r m n B rid Thac era i urch was i nit Chur h n ear Pa lia e t e. down. H s ch Tr y c , g k y , i n restin s etch of him sa s Wi h the state of the who gi ves an te g k , y t f landl d enan t and easantr he seemed to b e most curiousl country , o or , t , p y , y

in ima l ac uai nted . H i s n owled e of the e le i s rodi i ous and an d t te y q k g p op p g , ” i im r a thei r con ﬁdence n h as g e t.

GRAND PARAD E a a t has a is ﬁne str igh street, but the s me

a as Pat c S . In the c was a w f ult St. ri k treet entre there formerly ide “ c a w c was a 1 80. At t h nnel, hi h rched in 7 the south end here a a CorkYoun I a S t 1906 is l rge monument, put up by g rel nd ocie y in , “ ” to commemorate the men who fought in the wars of Ireland ’ ’ “ 1798 1 3 46 6 to c her 80 . in , , , 7 , re over sovereign independence TH E SOUTH MALL at a t Pa a runs right ngles wi h the r de . w i t a Though not the idest , is one of the most import nt streets in C c a and ork , being oc upied by profession l men the chief a t A a a a o merch n s . bout hundred ye rs g the middle of this street as a and a a a w river , the south side formed one side of tri ngul r a two C a a and isl nd, the other sides being formed by h rlotte Qu y

i a . The Ba I a S a Of c and Morr son Qu y nk of rel nd , the t mp ﬁ e , ‘ C H oﬁi ces P a the County lub ouse , the of the rovinci l , the Na a M and H a B a are a tion l , the unster , the iberni n nks , situ ted as a a B A in this street ; lso the Commerci l uildings , the ssembly P a a a d L a H n C . Rooms , the rotest nt ll , the ork ibr ry GRE AT GE ORGE STRE E T is the newest street in Cork ; beyond r a a a a Muske ry R ilw y St tion it becomes the Western Ro d . TH E MA RD Y KE a of the a a s , once the promen de f shion ble of n ow s to the t a s and Cork , though con igned r de people shop

a a W t R a . It i s a th keepers , runs p r llel to es ern o d mile in leng , - rs a w a s an d a a a . is ove h do ed by t ll elm tree , is f vourite promen de e i et n a the o Th Cr ck grou d djoins on north side . T the left we 106 CORK

’ a a w C a h ve vie of the Queen s ollege , a h ndsome structure over

the southern fork of the river. On the southern bank of the Lee i s a an d a - s s b a c the city p rk r ce cour e, kirted y pi turesque a the Mari na a a promen de , , forming be utiful avenue .

For C the ﬁnest building in ork , the Cathedral of St . Finn Barr S S a A .M . an d 7 P . a St Patr c ( ervices , und ys , le ve . i k S Pa a an d at c t treet by the r de (left) , on e turn righ by St. George Street to S ou th Mai n Street ; at the far end of latter cross S ou th

Gate B ri d e and . The vi ew ta g , turn to the right ob ined by thi s a ac a t i s the the a a ppro h , from the e s , best of building s whole . An c c t h old stru ture , o cupying the si e of t e ancient bui lding ’

St. F B a at 7th c a of inn rr s found ion of the entury , w s taken w and was c b a n ew an d at do n, su ceeded y r her mean cathedral

1 3 5. The c the in 7 ere tion of present building , due to the B G was s 1 8 exertions of ishop regg , ﬁni hed in 7 9.

H a c c Mr. W. B s has cc ere the r hite t , urge s , su eeded in giving I a t c c s rel nd one of the very bes modern hur he of the kingdom .

To c a a w a s the s s omp re sm ll ith gre t thing , group of pires i , c s at at Li chfield l owev r of our e , inferior to th it is, e , very “ The t Ea F w a s w a fine . s yle is rly rench , hich gree ith E rly ” a a English In general ch r cter . ho c Mr B has Observe w mu h . urgess employed the round or ” w w and - a a a a rose indo , the ring b nds upon the sm ller pill r sh fts . ll three s i res are a an d w A the p h ndsome, the hiteness of the a a The a stone adds n unusu l brightness . West Front h s a most a f w a s ac ple sing e fect, hich g ins richnes from the gilded b k c a ca are ground with which the prin ip l rvings relieved . All the are N c c a s the carvings good . oti e espe i lly the figure round West Door ; the eleven figures of the central doorway represent the and a a an d B wise foolish virgins of the p r ble, the ride ” i an d w a . groom s in the centre , holding e ring roses — Three features of the Interior strike the visitor the great h i ht a a ac t c F c f c the a u ri ht e g , ch r teris i ren h e fe t m rked use of p g li n s c a c a wa a the e , espe i lly noti e ble in the ll sh fts supporting an d ch ess the -w to the vaulting ; the ri n of stone ork , due c and t a s varied olouring , to some ex ent, to the ring b nd of the a sh fts . The capitals of the pillars are remarkable for their French character and the pulpit an d font for the unusual additions of he Central Tower i s a a brass texts . T interior of the speci l '

o aom n m o r or FINN B ARR CAT ED RAL . . H ’ - Based on ha f D the r m ch. t t o r. Caulﬁeld s Hand book to Cathed al Ch 108 CORK f a a a a d e ture ; see the v riety of the m rbles used , n the brightness t b a t s c len y the inl nd gil mo ai . R a se the c an a a ound the p , beyond hoir , runs mbul tory and s ast c the the tone colouring of the e ern end is very ri h , prevailing blue of the walls being in contrast with the red “ ” a a a - m rbles of the n ve isles . The carefully balanced toning ’ w w a a c at B s of the indo s, the el bor te de or ion of the i hop s Throne , and the a a a all s mos ic p vement of the pse de erve notice . The entire decoration has been minutely worked out in Mr B tc b . who a ske hes y urgess , died soon fter the erection of the building .

’

Shandon C urch St. A a 1 25 a ac h ( nn s) , built bout 7 , is ppro hed ’ ’

P a w St. Pa c B b the t from ope s Qu y , est of tri k s ridge , y righ ’ a s St Ma I a a h nd turning just hort of . ry s Church . t i s rem rk ble i ts and s w w w for steeple , the bell ithin it, hich ere rendered famous by Father Prout in his lines

With deep affection and recoll ecti on I often thi nk of the Shandon bells , Whose s und so wi ld would in da s of childhood o , y , Fli ng round my cradl e thei r magi c sp ells ’ h r On thi s I ponder, w e e er I wander, hus o fonde swe e And t gr w r, et Cork, of the ; With th bells of Shan don y , That sound so grand on l s n w r f The p ea a t ate s o the ri ver Lee.

— a a af a a st a of The tower queer , pieb ld f ir , but di inct fe ture — the town is of red stone on the north an d e ast faces onl y ; b a w t and is topped y curious hi e turret of three stories , remind a a K The w ing us of a similar effort t Herne B y in ent . bells ere hall G the a at a cast by Bud of loucester in l st century, the s me ’

s St F B a a a ca . foundry from which tho e of . inn rr s c thedr l me “ The place derived its name from the Shan -dn n or old a fort ne r . Ma F S . In the adjoining graveyard Father Prout ( . hony) s 1 6 a ma t wa buried in 8 6 . Though ord ined , he never per nen ly a w but was a a st w undertook cleric l ork , eng ged in journ li ic riting H e at Pa a a a a as in London . died ris , h ving cted for m ny ye rs

Paris correspondent to the Globe newspaper . ’ ’ Mar s oman Ca o i Ca edra i s a few m wa St . y R th l c th l inutes lk an the Shandon ste s a away to the north d on side of the p , le ding

and Mal rave R a Green CoatS chool. down to Roman Street g o d , is the

110 CORK

The Court-House w a C a , ith good orinthi n portico, which ” Ma a a c w Pa a is c ul y onsidered ould do honour to ll dio , in St. ' h a ﬁ George Street. T e gener l e ect of the buildi ng i s less spoilt by its a a F C dome th n th t of the our ourts of Dublin .

The Crawford Muni ci al Techni a Ins i u e a p c l t t t , situ ted in E P a a a c an d mmet l ce, is h ndsome building of red bri k stone , containing an old and a n ew portion the former coincides with “ ” C I t 1 803 an d t the old ork ns itution , founded in , previous o a was t C H The a a wi th t the Governmen ustoms ouse . ddition l ng M a at a an d was erected by the late r. Cr wford cost of n ew was the P Wa s 1 885 as the building opened by rince of le , in , “ ” aw M c a S Art. The ct a s the Cr ford uni ip l chool of pi ure g llerie , a a few w t the on the first floor, cont in only orks, the proper y of C a an d are a a S K orpor tion, pictures obt ined on lo n from outh ens i n ton and a c In t all g from priv te colle tions . the sculp ure g ery, on f c as c t the first loor, is a unique colle tion of c ts presented to the i y a b Ma s Ca a by George IV . , including c sts of figures y the rqui nov , c c as F at P t an d a number of busts of elebrities , su h her rou , groups e Art has a a cc s by Hogan . Th School of est blished su es ful industry

all an d sc . of lace an d crochet work , designed executed in the hool

In arne i brar a Pa B the the C gi e Free L y, ne r rnell ridge, reference - 10 10 ws 9 A . M. to 10 P . M . room is open from to ne room , It is strange that art should ﬁnd so little encouragement in a city that has always been famous for her sons in literature and “ ﬁ a t a the n e arts ; th at has sent to Engl nd a number of li er ry men, of reputation too whose citizens are the most book -loving men ” “ that the above -named critic ever met whose streets boast “ ” he a - w c a ac only of t be uty of the bright eyed, ild, lever, e ger f es of the Munster folk an d that has given birth to no less a a a a S a K w H a m ster th n D niel Maclise. herid n no les , og n the t D r W l a a a . sculptor, Crofton Croker, B rry the p in er, i li m

Ma an a Ma w all of C . guire, d Father Fr ncis hony ere men ork

’ St. J ose h s Cemeter a a di a w p y is bout mile st nt from the to n . It was B ta Ga and was t a formerly the o nic rden, converted in o b Fa Ma w 18 30 The w l a cemetery y ther the in . ground is e l l id an d a t A out pl n ed . mong the ﬁner specimens of sepul chral a w a s a a c a P la s rchitecture hich it cont in is s r oph gus of ort nd tone, u b a an a b H a w I a a s rmounted y ﬁgure of ngel , y og n, in hite t li n a m rble . To so -wes L C a the uth t of the town is the ough of ork, sheet CORK 111

’ of water only interesting as the scene of one of Crofton Oroker e s fairy legend .

e sa s that i t was on ce a small fair well covered b a stone c ncern H y y , y , o i n whi ch a traditi on had been han ded down from remote times whi ch g , d that if the ston e which covered the well were not re laced ever pre i cted , p y morn i ng after the dwellers i n the vall ey had taken from it their daily supply a r a torr n t would rush forth an d i n un date the vall e and drown all of w te , e y , n hi s alamit was at l n h i n curred b a c r ai n ri n ess the inhabita ts . T c e t e t c y g y p , l n h i n un cti on for ot o close h mou h f h ll who n e ecti t e j , g t t e t o t e we and , g g , i n f h r fa h r and h l cau sed the destru ct o o e t e i s p eop e. An i n terest of a more racti cal i nd i s attached to the three reserv irs p k o , situated about 3 00 feet above the l evel o f the cit whi ch su l th i nhabit y , pp y e h w an d a half milli on all n s of f sh a r f m h ants wit t o g o re w te ro t e ri ver L ee. Th ese waterwor s were con stru cted at a cost of whi ch c nsiderin k , o g hara r ma b on sidered s r m r their exten si ve c cte , y e c a ve y ode ate.

c s a a as a Cork is of on ider ble import nce shipping port. It ss a s t a U K h posse es the l rge t but er m rket in the nited ingdom . T e t an d s c a s s Th expor of pork live to k is l o very exten ive . e dis tilleri es are a a sca an d on l rge le, the other industries include w and i a ac a - a a an oollen l nen m nuf tures, p per m king, t nning, d c and a ac The c two / opper tin m nuf tures . ity returns members to a Parli ment. “ QUEENSTOWN AND THE HARBOUR OI CORK.

h w n There are t ree a s of reachin ueen s own B G . S . a d W. Railwa y g Q t y y,

fr m lanmir i » h far n la 1 o G e Stat on ; time about our ; e 2 d c ss , s . 2 B , 5 , ( ) y r i fr m Al r n n t a n o be t Street Stati on to Mo kstown , the c e per steamer o ueenstown total a ou mi n fare 3rd class 8d 3 t Q ( b t 50 s . ) , , . () The sail ’ ’ f m Merchant ua n ar P atri ck s B ri d e to ueen s ro s Q y ( e St. g ) Q town should refer ed if he h an d ti m n in be p r t weat er be ﬁne e ot press g. But the railway runs for the most p art close by the coast and affords ﬁn e

Vi ews .

The harbour trip is so interesting that the visitor who makes ” a t a The H a most use of the ste mers will be mos rep id . rbour t a a n M t w an d Rushbrook proper begins jus fter p ssi g onks o n . F w a a A hada rom Queensto n the ste mer should be t ken to g , on the east coast (page an d from then ce the car to Cloyne a Ba c t R c P t a (p ge lly ot in , or o hes oint or, on the o her h nd, t a s to C a the w s ast are a a frequent s e mer rossh ven, on e t co , v ilable . ’ L a St. Pa c B b a the C H s e ving tri k s ridge y ste mer, ustom ou e is

as a w two a s the Lee . Th p sed , ne r hich the stre m of unite e a w the an d the t w Marin is ell seen on south, on nor h is the ooded M tt a t w t a . hill of ontenotte, do ed bou i h vill s Special bathing tickets are issued from June to September to

s wn Baths G. S an d G a S at W. ue . Q en to , by from l nmire t ion ; d 6d b ares t c at 1 s . 9 . . an d f , re urn , in luding b h , , , or ; y

A M . a s w a an d A . M . a S a . tr in on eek d ys , tr in on und ys . “ — a t Cork Ha b r. F z an d t a r ou rom its si e , s fe y, scenery , si u C H a a a as the s tion, ork rbour is dmittedly reg rded one of ﬁne t

w . T s a wat t an in the orld hi noble exp nse of er, divided in o t and a b s a S R c and ou er inner h rbour y the i l nds of pike , o ky , aulbowli n e to s s a i ts a s a H , is be een pre ding bro d bo om in sweep s c c b s ct tt of 7 mile , en ir led y green hill , pi uresquely do ed over with white mansions an d villages ; whilst conspicuous in the ac the G at Is a st w b kground, formed by re l nd , rises Queen o n in ’

t ac t wa . T i ts hi s tiers of err es , righ from the ter s edge hough al a a are a a a c a act tori c ssoci tions m inly of m ritime h r er, on the QUEENSTOWN 113

a a c a I a Pa a other h nd, there is sc r ely type of rish ntiquities, g n C a a n ot to the a or hristi n , th t is be found in immedi te vicinity

T. C a o R. S . A nt. H andbo k ( olem n , ,

Bl ackrock Castle stands out conspicuously upon the promontory Ri ma on I a w W a of g h . t is supposed to be the pl ce from hich illi m P a A a The U at B ac c enn emb rked for meric . rsuline convent l kro k 18 one of the most important educational establishments for girls in Ireland .

A R w Pa a 6 C fter ochesto n , ssage, bout miles from ork, is the ta t s an d a a next s tion on the line . I posse ses docks sever l l rge wa rehouses .

G rook a a a as a lenb , h lf mile f rther, used to be frequented

- ' wa ac and bath are n ow . tering pl e, but the hotel s closed

Monkstown (H otel : Imperial) is situated about a mile from

Pa a and w a a . The ss ge, beyond it the river idens out into l ke a w s M w i n ow a was 1 63 6. c stle , hich ruin , built in onksto n is the a art s a Ya C an he dqu er of the Roy l Munster cht lub , d on certain days of the week the white-winged yachts are a beautiful F an t ai sight in the bay . rom here one c continue in the r n to M C a c a th t a w . In rossh ven , or h nge to e s e mer for Queensto n onks w Ba the H S er ld as a a - M. E m a to n y is ﬁne old . . , used tr ining ship, She as at the t principally for Irish boys . w one time one of bes n a The a a a tt ﬁghti g ships in the n vy . ste mer m kes li le round on

wa t wn a at R a an d Haulbowli n e. the y to Queens o , c lling ing skiddy Ri n askuld 4 t - a t ta i ts a Skidd s g y ( miles sou h e s ) kes n me from the y , ” - a D a d a For H au lbowli ne a . nish descende f mily . see next p ge

’

uee s own . 9082 H otels The Rob Ro Q n t (pop ; Queen s, y , I a C a the t s G a I a was mperi l , olumbi ) , on sou h ide of re t sl nd, “ ” w as the C C an d its long kno n ove of ork, received present a at e a he w s V c 1 849. T ppell ion from the vi it of Qu en i tori in to n, which is built on the face of a hill sloping steeply down to the s and w a a a a a c hore, cro ned by m gniﬁcent grey gr nite Rom n C tholi a a is a t s s ba I c thedr l , very s riking ight een from the y . t is frequented by invalids on account of the mildness an d salubrity “ ” c at of the lim e . It is the Port of Call for the steamers bearin g A ca a s an d a Yacht Clu b the R a the meri n m il , is f mous for its , oy l ” C 1720 oldes the w d. ork, founded , the gclub of kind in the orl 114 QUEENSTOWN

E e R. Yac S a xc pt the ht qu dron , this is the only club of which the i s t to ﬂ U a The a commodore enti led y the nion J ck . dmiral in a I a t has at comm nd of the rish st ion his residence Queenstown .

’ S t Colman s Cathedral i s a most eautiful s ecimcn of M s rs . b p t e s . P ugin and ’ ” hli n s or uilt i n h ri d h As w k, b t e ﬂo Got i c st le. Th e erti cal mouldin s y v g , h r s of the wooden roof the dia r t e i b , e carvi n s and ca i tals all i ve it a p g , p g n i hn n uall in Ir n d luxuri a t r c ess u eq ed ela . Note the remarkabl e con tin u ati on h n a e walls as screen s a ross h cf t e v , , c t e tran septs ; and the un broken and ela orate stri n -cour se whi ch en irdles the whole uildin The ri h b g g b g. c arcading r h s a ll h and trace y of t e ap e, s we as t e beauti ful colouri n of the east wi ndow g , to ether with the min ute detail of the marble reredos all combi n e to make g , n “ the eastern end striki g i n character.

Golf may be found at Q ueenstown Junction (6 miles) and w w Rushbrooke, the estern suburb of Queensto n .

S ike Is and c s an d a p l is the most conspi uou , the l rgest of the

a the ba . It c b F W a isl nds in y is oc upied y ort estmorel nd , which aff a da a c n a ords ccommo tion for o sider ble number of men . The s a was a c ct s a s an d a i l nd formerly used for onvi e t bli hment, m ny n w w c th importa t orks ere exe uted by e prisoners .

Haulbowline a a a n t s t w is sm ller isl nd lyi g jus oppo i e Queensto n . It c a a a a an d i s the de ﬁt all ont ins the n v l docky rd, p for ordnance m . R k I a d the s a the s a an stores oc y sl n is llest of three i l nds , d a w a a i a a t t cont ins the po der m g z ne under dequ te pro ec ion . On leaving Queenstown for Crosshaven the steamer crosses the a c a w c a w m gniﬁ ent h rbour, hi h c nnot be properly seen bet een M w an d u w an d at t an c a b h onksto n Q eensto n , the en r e gu rded y t e Ca s and Ca e t t the t twin forts , rli le md n , urns in o mou h of the

a a w ta C a H otel . F C rrig line river, here s nds rossh ven ( ) rom the hill there is a splendid view of Queenstown an d the whole scenery a c a an d the At a c It of the m gniﬁ ent h rbour, even of l nti . is a la e a a t D the as a favourite p c for ple sure p r ies . uring se on there re a cheap excursions about 2 days a week from Cork . C rrigaline as a t c c an d a the h his ori re ord , like most pl ces in neighbourhood, a can show the ruins of an old c stle .

Trustworthy history passes over the burial on Great Island of st c Nemedh who it sa ca s the prehi ori , , is id, me to these hores ts r the Ea t but the c t at S t a a c s . with b nd of oloni f om s , eviden e h Finnbar entered the harbour in the 6th century an d founded his

116 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK

’ Inchi ui n w Si r L O of q , hich descended to ucius Bri en, Bart a wa L r Inchi ui n . The a a i fter rds o d q m nsion, be ut fully situated at a C C the e stern end of the ove of ork , occupies the site of a a F a a a Imokill c stle of the itzger lds , the ncient senesch ls of y . It c a h ont ins some old documents of historic interest . T e demesne c a a c s Sa ont ins cromle h on the hore of leen creek . Here also is “ a and c a silex mine, l ys from which some beautiful Rostellan ha wa s a fact . V are a t re been m nu ured isitors dmit ed, on applica the ds w w a a tion, to groun , hich ill mply rep y a visit.

a Cast e Mar a I i s a Ne r l y is nother cromlech . t n immense as st an s a m s of lime one of oblong h pe , one end resting on the ” n and two grou d , the other supported by huge upright stones . The a s i s 15 b a t 8 a an d l rge tone feet long y bou bro d , 3 to 4 “ A a a a thick . djoining this gre t lt r is a smaller one of a triangular a and e t two sh pe , , lik the other, suppor ed by uprights in an I s a inclined position . t is suppo ed th t this lesser stone might a b ac c h ve een used for the purposes of common s riﬁ e , while the greater altar was reserved for occasions of extraordinary solem ” — ovN E ni ty . C .

C o ne 5 mi A a a a caves l y ( i les from gh d ) so n med from its , is a a Imokill b situ ted in the v lley of y , surrounded y hills , well Ma and a a Ca . T a wooded, bout mile from stle ry hus ne r a heathen altar a Christian church was erected in the 7th century

b St . C a a c St. F Ba T s y the pious olm n , dis iple of inn rr . ho e portions of the 13 th c entury Cathedral which the pitiless hands “ of the 18th century restorers spared have lost much of their a a w -was interest owing to the p inful dditions of the hite hers . In “ F a T a ca the the north or itzger ld r nsept, so lled from tomb of a the a Bi sho Si r F . Fitzger ld is ﬁne ﬁgure of the le rned p

e Berkel y .

fam us author of Pri nci les o Hu man Kn owled e who held the see i n The o p f g , a rn D s rt an d attended he same the time of George II . , w s bo at y e , t school if H f rds o ai n ed a fellowshi in Tri n i lle in Kilken n as Sw t. e a terwa bt p ty Co e y g , D ublin b ecame cha lai n to the E arl of P eterborough on his embas s to , p y

l nd was a oi nted i n 1 24 to the dean er of D err . B ermu da was Ita y , a pp 7 y y m i f r f r h ur ose of es a li shin a coll e e f vi sited by him so e t me a te , o t e p p t b g g or nati ve teachers an un dertaki n in whi ch he los t a con siderable p art of the , g ’ f him E s h r J ohn son Swif s S ll fortune whi ch had been le t to by t e , t te a. i of l n i n 1 4 and di ed ver suddenl B erkeley was con secrated B shop C oy e 73 , y y at Oxford i n 1753 . BLARNEY 117

“ ’ ’ In the south or Poore s aisle notice the striking epitaph “ ” which foretells the resurrection of the reanimated body of ’ Mrs P The a eas D r . t . Johnson s friend , iozzi h ndsome “ t t ac a u 18 wi ndow of reticula ed r ery w s p t up in 56 . In the churchyard adjoining the cathedral are the ruins of “ ” i the Fi re H It i s a a little bu lding called ouse . believed th t until the beginning of the 19th century this building contained

a . N a c c a Rou d Tower the rem ins of the founder e r the hur h is n , a s an d a 92 t . lmo t complete , origin lly fee high

“ On the night of the l oth of J anu ary a ﬂash of lightni ng ren t the conical to tumbled down the bell an d three lofts forced i ts wa throu h on e side p , , y g f he ui ldin an d drove the s ton es whi ch were admira l well oin ed and o t b g, , b y j ” ea h other thr u h e r f a oin i n a le. locked into c , o g th oof o an dj g st b

c an a t has n a a n Sin e then emb t lement bee dded , r isi g the height

102 . B all cotton to w a a to feet y , hich the c rs go on, is ﬁshing a village and summer resort on the co st.

II . CORK TO BLARNEY .

Blarney can be reached by the Cork an d Muskerry Railwav (85; miles) ’ m i n n r f fro stat o ea nd r r l b G . Rai e o t Geo e s S e t a so . S lwa S . g t e ; y W. y l mi s n mi es . C cli n i (6 ) y g (7 les) hocki n g. A go od vi ew i s obta ed on the way of arri rohan Castle s an di n i s u l n a s ee lime on e ro C g , t g p cture q e y o t p st ck ’

n he o osite an . t A n n s ill H r h c E sta li shmen i s o t pp b k S . e H yd op at i b t l asan tl situa ed mil f h n p e y t 2 es west o t e Blarn ey railway stati o , and 6 il s w s f r r m e t o . a hir r n e Co k C e, 8 s . etur .

B arne Cas e 6d. ac the a t l y tl ( e h) , l s of three on this site , was ‘ h 1 th c b ac M Car h It c s built in t e 5 entury y Corm t y . on ists n ow th a s w a 120 t and a of e m s ive donjon to er bout fee in hight , nother

w s s s a It was and a lo er portion le s ub tanti l . besieged t ken by c s C w the for e of rom ell . A stone in the castle of Blarney has long been endowed by tradition with the power of conferring on those who kiss it a — remarkable faculty a sweet persu asive eloquence th at none may s s The rea l st w c a to a at re i t . one , hi h is s id h ve one time borne the sc t CORMAC MAC CARTH Y F ORTI S MI F IE RI F E C I T n o in rip ion , w an d had a i t a a c illegible , engr ven on sh mro k in high relief, is a t 8 t the to the t w at i ts - ast a t bou fee from p of o er north e ngle , bu another more acce ssible has been substituted at a more con ul o s a a a ve ent p ition for the less dventurous c ndid tes . It is 118 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK

c as wi t a an d was - ac l ped h iron b rs , displ ed from its position by a ca - a the cast nnon b ll during the siege of le by Cromwell . The general fame of the stone of B larney dates from the publication ’ “ ” Milliki n s G B a e in 17 99 of song, the roves of l rney . W quote a sample of the song

’ ’ f Blarn The groves o ey , Ti s there s the daisy h loo so charmin An d he swee carna i n T ey k g, t t t o , D own by the purli n g The bloomi n in k g p , m n Of sweet silen t strea s, A d the rose so fair, ’ ‘ s B ei ng bank d with p o i es Th e daﬂodown dilly , ha n an us ro here Li ewi se he lil T t spo t eo g w t , k t y , Planted i n order All ﬂowers that scent ” lose. The s ee fra r n air By the sweet rock c w t g a t .

The version published in the Reli gu es of F ather Prou t contains the allusi ons to the Stone .

“ A cl ever s ou ter There IS a ston e th ere, p ’ r i s s H e ll sure turn out, o That whoever k se , an d uter Oh I he never mi sses An out o , l u n To be l et al on e 2 To grow e o q e t . ’ ‘ D on t ho e to hin der him Ti s he may clamber p , ’ der him ham er Or to bewi l , To a lady s c b , ’ he s a il rim Or become a member Sure p g

From the Blarn e Stone. Of Parliament . y

- a w w e The pleasure grounds surrounding the c stle , hich er a c s es and formerly adorned with statues, grottoes , l ove , bridg ,

BLARNEY 1 19

c a are a a every description of rusti orn ment , still be utiful , lthough Fa P t wh since the time of ther rou , en

The muses shed a tear, i Wh en the cruel auct on eer, hi han d eet Blarne me With hi s hammer i n s , to sw y ca , their beauty has been gradually diminishing the ﬁne old trees a and a h ve been felled , the st tues of

h n ds And Nic dem The heat e go , o us, m h fair All s andin na An d n y p s so , t g ked. ” B ld un e Plutarch In the o en air 1 o Nept , , p ,

a a The Rockclose a the a a fe a h ve v nished . , djoining c stle , w cres t a w an d was at in exten , is dorned ith evergreens , one time wi t sta t b D O m In embellished h tues erec ed y the uke of r onde . a a a The it there is a Druidic l lt r .

— grave1 walks there F or speculati on An d c onversati on

are w . The n ew Ca B a a , ho ever, in good order stle of l rney , a s b Si r G C who n ow the s a m n ion built y eorge olthurst, owns e t te,

i s w c . In 1825 Sir Wa surrounded ith mu h ﬁne timber lter Scott, Mr L a t an d M ss E w ca . ockh r , i dge orth visited the stle . T a a B a w a a an a here is vill ge of l rney , ith sm ll hotel , d woollen “ ” w c c s w l - w B a T e mill hi h produ e the el kno n l rney weeds . Th i s w a s mill orthy of vi it from the tourist .

ar e Lake i s a w c wa a a a Bl n y s eet pie e of ter, bout qu rter of he ca A t a a s a a a a mi le from t stle . r dition rem in th t t cert in seasons a herd of white c ows rises from the bosom of the lake a a the c as w c c t a to gr ze mong ri h p ture hi h lo hes its b nks . A t i s t at E a Clan cart who nother s ory , h the rl of y , forfeited the ca at the R t cas all hi s at a c a a t stle evolu ion, t pl e into ert in p r ; “ ‘ that three of the M Carthys inherit the secret of the plac e w t are t an w c at here hey deposi ed, y one of hom dying ommunic es i t a t the a an d t t at the c to no her of f mily , hus perpe u es se ret, ‘ which i s never to be revealed until a M Carthy be again Lord ” a It i s a of Bl rney . said that in the lake there i s particular kind of t t w w n s th ﬂ red rou , hich ill ot ri e to e y .

’ “ 1 Millikin s Gr ves of B larn e o y . 120 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK

On C a w a - the river om n , ithin the ple sure grounds , is a very c an d a - ﬁne cromle h , number of pillar stones Inscri bed with ancient O a a ac gh m ch r ters .

III. ORK Y C TO OUGHAL.

B G. S . W. Railwa 26 miles y y , 3 . E xcursi ons fr m Cork i n theseas n at o o , n on or soon aft r a u hre e bo t t e da s a week . o , y

This trip i s usually taken in connection with the steamer the B ac wat as journey on l k er, there is nothing much to bring a to Y a its own a f i s s visitor ough l on ccount. I it de ired to return C the sa da i t ma be c s a a t c to ork me y , y ne e s ry to dop a ircular Ma w an d the a route by llo Junction, direction t ken will depend t of a Ca an d Y a a on the ime s iling from ppoquin ough l . Gener lly

‘ t w c t to e Y a I i ill be found onvenien proce d ﬁrst to ough l . t should be remembered that the steamer does not begin to run until about the end of June . Leaving Cork by Glanmire Station we pass between the a a a an d w c and the w ple s nt g rdens oods on the high ro ks , ide Lee a w t a breezy mouth of the , on the right, b nked i h l rge river Mi dlet 12 a c far on . a residen es on the side . ( k m ) origin ted in a a 12 h It c i Cisterci n bbey founded in the t century . re eived ts M C t c a C a II . At ﬁrs h rter from h rles idleton ollege , founded in 1696 a e a c v ca , sever l p rsons of eminence h ve re ei ed their edu tion, a an d a T i s a a w including Curr n Eg n . here l rge hisky distillery a and a i t a i s w Si r Wa t Midleton, ne r ford pointed out hich lter a - a a a F a s c a R leigh held single h nded g inst itzger ld , enes h l of “ ” Imokill and a u s a w I y , n merou b nd of ild rish rebels , till his e o B own men came up . Th town gives the title t the rodrick emart r a N a M 1 1 . Castl f mily . e r ogeely ( 7 ; m ) is y , the demesne of he E a S a an d c a which belongs to t rls of h nnon , ont ins the ruins i a a a s of an old fortress and some interesting eccles stic l rem in .

Y ou a . 53 H otels : G Pa D A gh l (pop 93 reen rk , evonshire rms, t w an d a in the o n , Atlantic) is 262miles east of Cork on the b y of

a a at the the B ac wa . Com the s me n me, mouth of river l k ter merciall has a w a an a y , it dec yed some h t, but incre sing number of “ ” s s a a an d z a w t an vi itor ﬁnd here cle n bree y se side, i h interest an d a at a and w t a a a sea- ing ncient port its b ck , i h ple s nt front of m two t t so e miles in ex en .

122 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK

a a an at and a c thedr l , or ory , holy well . The monastery and a w b ‘ ’ St . D c a o d or tory ere founded y e l n, wh i ed about the 5th “ ” c an d was at a entury buried the gr ve . Ardm ore remained an E sc a 12th O pi op l see till the century . f the cathedral the chief a are 12th t a and a c a fe tures the cen ury n ve, e rly h ncel entered by a a an d a a be utiful very e rly rch . Note the stones marked w O a an d a a ith gh m inscriptions , the rc ding on the outer walls of the building . ’ St . D c a 9. e l n s stone , huge boulder with an arched hollow a a underne th, is lso supposed to possess a miraculous power a of he ling . Pilgrims (on July 24) creep beneath i t in the beli ef a w ss s . The Rou th t they ill receive ble ing nd Tower, 97 feet in h eight, possesses some curious sculptures .

IV. THE BLACKWATER.

The times of sailing of the Blackwater steamer between Youghal and Cap poquin depen d on the tide on several days i n the month there i s n o sail l i n . All parti cu ars can be obtained from the Mana er Blackwater g g , uri i ﬂi u hal To st Steamsh O ce Yo g . p ,

For C Y a see a 12 The a the route from ork to ough l , p ge 0. ro d a c Y a Ca i s 18 s dist n e from ough l to ppoquin mile . The i a s I a mouth of th s river, one of the l rge t in rel nd , forms the a Y a w c a an d w l s t h rbour of ough l , hi h , though ﬁne e l hel ered ba i s acc a s s b a bar The y , rendered in essible to very l rge ve sel y . trip up the river is made in a light steamer specially built for the a a Y a a we a he a . S t n ew n vig tion t rting from ough l qu y , p ss under 1 6 t c ct c s C iron bridge 7 8 feet in leng h , onne ing the ountie of ork a a On a the we see the nd W terford . le ving bridge on left the c f c w b a c t the K s T a li fs ro ned y ruined pre ep ory of night empl r,

hi n crew Castle Ra le G 1 183 . R , founded by ymond ros in Immediately the hills rise at either side to a cons iderable a t c c o w t the height, on one h nd hi kly l thed i h ﬁrs , on other, green an d dotted with cottages an d tilled patches . Higher up t a the i s the s a on the left, in one of the pre tiest p rts of river, qu re T M c a a t he Fitz eralds e t . k ep of emple i h el, ruined for ress of g On s Molan a s a a Tem le Mi chael b an the i let of , ep r ted from p y are s A Molan ﬁdes n d inlet, extensive ruin of the bbey of , fou de i s lac Fachnan 1 . A a by St. in 50 st tue of the founder p ed upon a c a a n a pedest l in the loister, but it is of comp r tively moder

THE BLACKWATER 123

The Ra lo G a a S r erection . body of ymond ros, comr de of t ong

bow a a a . , is s id to h ve been buried in the bbey Passing by the angle of the stream in which the fine mansion B alli n atra s at we et w a the of y is itu ed , g fine vie s long bending The w tw a aw a an d river . river, flo ing be een noble l n on one b nk c w w a a a ri h oods on the other, idens out into l ke , c lled the B a C as a a a w ro d of l hmore , from the vill ge of th t n me, hile the view forward reaches over miles of a cultivated slope termi n at a at -c a F s w s ing in lofty he her overed pe k . rom thi spot it ind a c s a through suc e sion of be uties . The ruins of old Stran ca lly Castle are seen on the left ; ivy and wa a a a covered shed by the stre m , they seem lmost p rt of the - r w c w c a rough moss g o n ro k on hi h they st nd, directly over the

. The wa a to an d a river ter here is s id be of immense depth , c c a a a sa a a essible by subterr neous p s ge from the c stle, known s M H a was a the urdering ole , bec use here , it s id , some cruel D s a s e mond, of d y long gone by, used to dispose of the bodies of his t s vic im . N ew Stran ca lly Castle stands a short distance from its pre It a a ‘ decessor . is b ttlemented Gothic structure embosomed in

w s . t a a ca d the B lovely ood Jus beyond , sm ller river, lle ride , a B ac wa . A t a Cam hi r an f lls into the l k ter lit le bove it is p e, d a ank i lli ersto ne rly opposite , on the right b , V wn . About this we a s sc c an a point h ve the prettie t enery on the ex ursion, d bend the a a a Kn ockmealdo n in m in stre m reve ls the w mountains . Dr a a Ca st e a H . V S a a om n l , the se t of illiers tu rt, couple of a t t miles f r her on , is not in i self striking, but is charmingly a I situ ted . t overlooks the river from an eminence of about 60or 70 an d a feet, seems b rely to peep through the magniﬁcent woods w c i t an d the w - w a hi h fold round , clothe hole river side ith be uty . s a a sw a a Fi ni sk Ju t bene th, eet little tribut ry, c lled the , loses itself t he B a c wa . F a in l k ter rom the grounds of the c stle, which are w to s a a freely thro n open vi itors , n rtistically conceived opening

the t ca s w wa s ta s in rees rrie the vie up to rd the moun in , or down the a ac the . A a over bro d surf e of river sm ll islet in front, c w t w w an d a overed i h illo s drooping shes , forms a pretty fore n the ur D a a grou d to pict e of rom n . Adjoin ing the site of the c s the ca t modern building on e tood old s le of the Fitzgeralds . It was ac Ca C t D s the birthpl e of therine , oun ess of e mond, who is sa to a a a e 140 an id h ve re ched the g of , d to have met her death b y a a c Affan e a D a a f lling from herry tree in , ne r rom n , where the 124 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK c b b S i r herry rought y Walter Raleigh from the Canary Islands was st ca It a ﬁr domesti ted . w s said she had been climbing in a c a e t se r h of her f vourit frui . H igher up on the left bank are the ancient castle of Tourin and the modern structure of the same name the latter the Seat of Sir R a M a b w at e a ich rd usgr ve, y hose f h r, the l te proprietor, the capabilities of the Blackwater as a navigable river were ﬁrst tested . ’ We soon approach Capp oquin (H otel : Walsh s Commercial an d Fa w a d a a mily), hich from ist nce is decked in somewh t

c a m . It a a t a c ﬁctitious h r s lies in be u iful situ tion, but on loser a a a a It a a c cqu int nce is likely to dis ppoint. m kes onvenient ta t - a B ac wa M M a s r ing pl ce for the l k ter scenery , or ount eller y, to w car a 2s he a a a L s hich the f re is . return . T ple s nt vill ge of i more is four miles west. The Mon aster o Mt Mellera y f . y lies on the south slope of the Knockmealdown a s a 4 s a an d mount in , bout mile from C ppoquin , a e c a a and as n li n on the e st sid of the dire t ro d to C her C hel ( o cyc g) . The views of the Kn ockmealdowns obtained from the road are an d a a are a a a very good , lthough l dies not dmitted f rther th n G H all t s s the outer uest ouse , should include hi hort trip in their a a progr mme , if only for the ple sure of the journey . of the a to all t t s The interior mon stery is open gen lemen visi or ,

! T who w a a t act i t casual or otherwise. hose ish to m ke pro r ed v si w are boarded an d lodged in the Guest House ithin the enclosure . Lady visitors are boarded in a house immediately outside the t are a a t a a t monastic buildings, but hey lodged in house bou qu r er V ma a a of a mile from the monastery . isitors y rem in for fort night. T a t are s ct The rules of the order ( r ppis s) severely tri , being he exceeded only by the Carthusians in severity . T monks live ta at i n exclusively upon vege ble diet, use no stimul ing drink ; ’ t s a c s a t an d dulge in bu six to even hours sleep ; l bour in e s n ly , The a t i s a a maintain perpetual silence . l s rule rel xed in f vour of t a c as a the a few members for essen i l purposes, su h te ching in s c a s an d c s t schools, tran a tion of necess ry busines , re eption of vi i ors, The c an d ea who are very numerous . hief ( for some the only) m l

- a In the D Ha i s a t a t the a i s about mid d y . ining ll por r i of rem rk

Pa w st i s t t . able Father ul , hose hi ory in eres ing The ground upon which the monastery stands was a wild tract

' of unreclaimed mountain rented to the community by the late THE BLACKWATER 125

Sir Richard Keane of Cappoquin . The community is now com at posed of n ives of Ireland .

1 5 H ot l B a Li smore (pop . 83 ; e s : Devonshire Arms ; l ckwater a i s V . The D s A s i s st as it the a t le) evon hire rm put ﬁr l rges , but i s a to B ac wa Va w the visitor dvised go to the l k ter le, here , in s a t w a a a pite of poor ex erior, he ill ﬁnd re l old hostelry , bright

a an d a a c a . g rden , re son ble h rges

The town deri ves its name from the prehi stori c Celti c li s or fort on the as s o t, and i ts hi story goe back t 588 when a bi sho alread watched o er e , p y v “ h M codi founded h r h r t. artha o e e n its welfare. In t e 7th centu y S C g o e of the reat u bli c schools for which Ireland was at one time famous an d a g p , monastery whi ch was (afterwards) con sidered a suitable place of retreat for ” Th wn i s sai religious meditati on for ki n gs and prin ces . e to d to havepos n h a ha ime an ha a a sessed as ma y as twenty churc es t t t t , d to ve ttr cted even f i l e F or man ears it suffered hard un der he dea ki ng Al red to ts co leg . y y t dly han d of th e cruel D an e ; but on ce more it rose to life agai n i n the 12th l m ur oon af er uld oas of a cast e. At he i e of c en t y , an d s t co b t t t the Armada h wn was re uilt and i ronwor s were started b Ri chard B o le t e to b , k y y .

In the 12th century its Castle (op en on week-days) was ’

the site of St. Cartha h s C an d c built on g ollege, here for enturies ’ was the Bishop s Palace i t is n ow one of the six residences of u D and a the D ke of evonshire , is one of the most be utifully a a s I a t has situ ted m n ions in rel nd ; indeed , no touris seen the south of Ireland properly who has omitted the views from the and B Flag Tower the ridge . he en tran ce atewa i s a t an T g y one of the older p r s, d on the ’ arli sle Tower Ki n J ohn s Tower left is C , corresponding to g on the At far t c a other side . the corner (righ ) of the ourty rd is the F lag Tower a w- B a wa and w t , splendid vie point over the l ck ter, i hin the ” “ ’ c u t a the w ca d a upper o r y rd (left) is oldest to er, lle R leigh s a a M n (but much earlier th n his d y) . odern additio s were made by

Pa . The w a Sir J . xton oldest ing is th t on the north , or moat side . Within the en tran ce ha ll are the Corporation sword and mace

a an d a s L s re Cr er. T a of Yough l , the f mou i mo osi his is d ted 1101 ‘ b M s St who a L C C y i s okes, s ys ike the ross of ong, this relic ’ is one of the finest examples of the goldsmith s art that has been ” “ I a It c s sts a as a -c found in rel nd . on i of c e of p le oloured bronze w c s an oak t c a the a hi h en hrines old s i k , prob bly origin l staff of “ ” “ L S t Carthach and was the the founder of ismore, . , crosier of ” B N a l the — Pra or Ni a ll son ishop i l , referred to on inscription y f , 126 EXCURSIONS FROM CORK o MacAeduca T f i n . his relic was found in a hole within an old wa ll, together with the B ook of Li smore. - The banqueting hall i s the finest room a few pictures hang - ' in the dining room ; and from the celebrated window in the drawi ng-room can be - seen that splendid view of the wooded Blackwater at which even James the Second started back in a a m zement . ’ ’ The a a St . Mochuda s St ar ha gre ter p rt of ( . C t gh s or ’ Mocodi s Cathedral i s n ow ) modern . The church i s easily r i ts w I a ecognised by hite spire . t cont ins some very ancient s a a a at a epulchr l sl bs , not bly th of Colg n The philosopher Robert Boyle an d the poet Congreve were both born at Lismore ; an d the castle passed to Si r Walter Raleigh ’ 1589 see Mr Westro s . a er in ( pp p p , L s at w a wa are ismore is delightfully itu ed, the oodl nd lks s an d a c c ta all h endles , the ro ds for y ling s r out in directions . T e salmon -fishing in the Blackwater an d i ts tributaries i s let out by da w a at ma ta the the y, eek, or se son inform ion y be ob ined from s f c L fi hery o fi e , ismore . The beauties of the Blackwater by no means terminate at L an d the a w wa ismore, if tourist h ve leisure he ill be re rded by a trip to Fermoy ; the ro ad an d the railway follow the river all he a F F ma t M tc s w Ca s a t t w y . rom ermoy he y visi i hel to n ve , bou 6 s a a H e ma b a to Ma w an d 1 miles di t nt (p ge y go y r il llo , to c K a thence either return Cork or pro eed to ill rney .

6126 H otels : R a B i s an ta t Fermoy (pop . ; oy l , ridge) impor n m ta a w a a t an d a a ili ry st tion, ith b rracks for both inf n ry c v lry,

a a ta 3 000 . The t w w c c ts c p ble of con ining men o n , hi h onsis of w t the t some good streets , o es much of its prosperi y to en erprise Mr A s he a - a c c a the a . C t c ac of S ot hm n , l te nder on of ork , m il o h a d a ac s ac The a c c a at the ac n b rr k contr tor . r hite tur l fe ures of pl e are w and s c c an d c ts chieﬂy the to ers pires of the hur hes onven , ff A a ac he B t c . s t some of hem very e e tive you ppro h from ridge , the chief religious and the largest buildings are seen high up t s a w w c s w T among the ree domin ting the to n hi h lie belo . hey — a — f om t to the P tat c t Lo tt re Er lef right resen ion onven , re o

t C w t w an d R a Cat c C c . conven , the ollege ( i h to er) om n holi hur h r t -ﬁshi n B ac wat A a There is free t ou g on the l k er, r glin , - Funcheon and Bride salmon ﬁshi ng i s preserved . a a Ma 1 s M c w 11 w 6 . it helsto n, amiles by r il (p ge llo , 2mile

128 LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERFORD

a the a S and a comm nding position on b nks of the uir , is one of a s I a the ﬁnest ex mples of the old fortre ses in rel nd . In 1599 it as a b E a E s and 1650 b C w w t ken y the rl of s ex , in y rom ell . a a an - s an d c a a There is h ndsome m sion hou e , the h rming p rk attached to it occupies both banks of the river for about 2 miles Cah a t s a M c t w below the town . er is convenien t tion for it hels o n s Caves (10 mile ) .

’ H otel : F a a Mitchelstown ( itzger ld s) is high up mong the hills . It can be conveniently reached from Fermoy by the small branch

The w a a an d ac a e . line of 12 miles . to n is ne t, b re , br ing in clim t

r s erha s on th unf r una Its chi ef reputati on est , p p , e o t te con tretemp s whi ch occurred here between the p eople an d the p oli ce durin g the last Nati onalist i h a ment mar he di sturbances . Crosses n t e p ve k t places where three men ’ fell under the barracks fire. There are two ood vi ews n ot to be missed— from the stati on and fr m g , , o ” h f n ate of the Protestant Church . The thin s to see are the Co l e t e ro t g g l eg , a s The rst at the far end i s he es i f h the castl e and the c e . fi , , t b t b t o t e town , v , and through it you pass to The Ca tle rounds o en dail on a lica i on at the estate fii a he s (g p y , pp t o ce t t a h f m h G r n h f te . B ear ri ro t e a de s wi hin . T i s h ro ert g ) g t , t , t e p p y o the

Countess of Ki ngstown , i s one of the most imp osin g man si on s of this coun r n d i and a tl men an en w o t y . Beyo ts towers b t e ts you get excell t vi e f

the graceful Galtee Mountains . The Ca are a out 10 mi les n orth-east ood cars i n Mitchelstown ves b % (g ) , l h a ll w h a nearly midway between Mitche stown and Caher. T ey re we ort i l r m no o i n s lo hes and a ea l as v sit ; but if ou ex o e the , do t g be t c t st rt r , y p , y n n all e vis ed under or 4 h the best parts ca ot b it 3 ours . These caves i n the limest n e valley between the Galtee an d Kn ockmealdown , o — mountai n s were o en ed robably for the first time in their exi sten ce— ln , p p a ident It will be n oti ced that th u h a arentl ossessin nl 183 5 by cc . o g pp y p g o y f e h the one outlet the air i s always r s . ' a h tta e Guide s fee accordi n to e ten of im [Tea provided t t e co g . g x t t e and art p y . ! B y a long descending and somewhat slimy passage we en ter the House of “ mmon s where i s the or an then a halt i n what i s enerall the Co , g g y place of - h I n he ne cham r th much conversation t e Lobby. t xt be , e House of Lords , , “ ” na ur has n o mean s a ro ria el laced the Golden Fleece a t e by pp p t y p , Rasher ” “ of B acon the largest stalactite called the Tower of B abel the D i amon d , , “ ” “ ’ ” Rock and Turki sh Ten t as well as H er Maj esty s Shawl and the , “ ’ ” s In the thedra i s han in the L ord Chancell or Wool ack . Ca l g g s Wig ; and the floor of thi s porti on i s the lowest of all an d erha s 350 feet below the , p p “ ’ ” d The F our Courts i s furni shed wi h a ue n B h i roa . t Q e s en c t i s adorn ed l ’ b Qu een E li z abeth s Ruffle and not enti rely o verwhelmed b the y , y

Avalanche.

ll s h r ma m I f time a ow , t e e are n ore wonders to be ex lored be on d y p y , l h to ller notab y t e Ki ngs n Ga y. CLONMEL 129

“ I n some of the chambers the massive pyramids of stalagmites are orn a men wi h s uccessi ve ti ers of cr stall isati on o f the mo st fan tas i f m ted t y t c or s, n when a i ht i s suddenl thrown on them the ehold a d l g y , b er c ould easily ” i i h ala e of the Gen ii f h M un ai imag ne himself n t e p c o t e o t n . On n o accoun t omit to cli mb up the li ttle hill whi ch covers the cave and rama f en circli n hills Y ou as n d h h al ee obtai n the splen did p an o o g . ce wi t t e G t s behin d ; at the top the Kn o ckmealdown s an d Coomeragh H ills are a little to l an d almost faci n and farther to th e left awa eas ward h so r the eft, g , y t , t e lita y Sli man di d s the alle s of the Ah n er l eft and the uir ri h evena vi e v y ( ) S ( g t) .

Eleven miles south -east of Caher the railway passes through

’ n . H otels : H a O Clo mel (pop e rn s ; rmonde), whose s c 188 9 a s as gaol ha , sin e , been f mou the temporary residence in ’ n M Mr. W. O Bri e . P. that year of ,

’ Readers need not be reminded of the honourable member s spirited repudia f h ri s n r f f ti on of an unmen ti onable but n ecessary p orti on o t e p o ga b, or lack o “ l whi ch he found hi mself unpleasantly left i n the co d .

The names of Gladstone an d Parnell streets smack of political an d s s an d wa s s a feeling, the numerou mill rehou es , no le s th n c a a c a e the en ircling rr y of ﬁne residen es in the neighbourhood , r s t tangible proof of prosperi y . Clonmel was the birthplace of the great humourist Sterne in 1 1 It a t s s S an d a c 7 3 . st nds on bo h ide of the river uir, lso o cupies M an d L I a w c are b t oire ong sl nds , hi h connected y hree bridges, a a c e ch of three r hes . In 1650 took place the memorable siege of Clonm el by C w who a a f a 2000 c rom ell, , fter h ving su fered loss of men , su ceeded c the a ca a w in ompelling g rrison to pitul te, hen he demolished the a an d t a whi c n ow nl the s a c stles for iﬁc tions, of h o y ruin rem in .

The c c ST. MARY a a t G t c c ca hur h of , be u iful o hi stru ture, es ped a a I ha a wi t . t s a thou d m ge l tely undergone extensive restor tion,

n ot a . The i s a a a though in good t ste steeple oct gon l, emb ttled , 4 The G t c ac a an d 8 feet in height . o hi tr ery of the e st window has a t been much dmired , being though by some superior to that he w ws H r The a the t C . a of indo of oly oss b se of steeple is squ re, an d seems to be of a much older date than an y other portion of At h the building . t e opposite side of the church is another w to er . The churchy ard i s in a great measure encompassed by the old c t a At i y w ll . intervals on it are observable the remains of s a qu re towers . 130 LIMERICK JUNCTION TO WATERFORD

C flour- s a w a lonmel possesses extensive mill , bre ery , t nneries , and an a a . It was a import nt butter m rket here th t in 1817 Mr. Bianconi first established his system of cheap and expeditious car- a w c ex a tr velling, hi h soon tended over the south nd west o f — “ I a a as w at a rel nd c rrying , one riter expresses it, civilis ion n d letters into some of the wildest haunts of the ru dest races in ’ Erin s Isle Many fine walks are to be had in the neighbourhood of the w w c at a to n , hi h is situ ed in the midst of much beautiful n d ct sc Th a a a highly pi uresque enery . e f vourite promen de is F iry

H R a . H w aff a a a t as a s the ill o d ey ood ords ple s nt s roll , l o and a Wilderness the Qu y . naman 2 4 Sli eve 3 6 f t N . E C ( ee ) , is 9 miles to the . of lonmel .

- - Carri ck ou S uir (pop . 5406 ; H otel : Bessborough Arms) is the T t w t a next station after Clonmel . his o n is si u ted in County T a i s Ca c a S ipper ry , but joined to rri kbeg by bridge over the uir, the small portion o f County Waterford across the river being specially included in Tipperary for purposes of county administra ’ i a t a few wa the C K n tion t i s lso wi hin minutes lk of ounty ilken y . a B a t The castle an d p ark djoining belong to the utler f mily . I d the wa a wa a a t w an . s formerly w lled o n, some of ll still rem ins n ow c but t are an d The woollen manufacture is extin t, here linen ﬂax The t w t Ea to a a c B t mills . o n gives itle of rl br n h of the u ler

a as D O . f mily , it did formerly to the uke of rmonde

County Waterford i s situated south of the counties of a K the w b C an d Tipperary n d ilkenny , bounded on est y ork , on ’

G C a . The c t a the south by St . eorge s h nnel oun y is gener lly a as i s b Kn ockmealdown Comera h mount inous , crossed it y , g , llah and - a s wa a its ac Mon avu , other hill r nge , but to rd the e st surf e

a . The a a a ts to a s w c is low an d m rshy re moun cre , of hi h - ar a a and a a are a three fourths e r ble , bout cres l id out in a plant tions . WATERFORD .

— Mall a i ll on ua . HOTE LS . Adel hi and Im eri al on the Gr nv e, Q y p p ,

— n D ubli n RAI L WAY STATIONS . T7l e Great S outhern and Western Rai lway a d a h- as i a i n at N end f B rid e and Water ord nd Sout E tern (J o nt St t o ) , . o g ; f ’ i nald s Tower an d Tramore, about 1 mile from Reg .

MAI - n Passa e A o t d Tr re a d . L C RS t Fe har , I/akeswell, amo , g — u nn ili n n land ale c. see i nk a es. S s a a For sa gs to E g , Scotland, W s, et , p p g

Con stant steamers to Checkpoi nt, etc.

GOLF at Tramore (page

POP .

T s a a and a a hi ncient city is of gre t historic interest, is ple s ntly a S a 39 situ ted on the uir, here sp nned by the wooden bridge of arches ; but though it possesses remains of ancient buildings a ae can a b i t interesting to the rch ologist, it bo st of only one of ’ t RE GINALD S TOWE R ta at the pic uresque, , s nding the corner of

two a a an d Ma . the m in streets, the Qu y the ll F a l rom the Bridge turn left along the qu ay toward The M l . A a the P Of a n a t H t a fter p ssing ost ﬁce t ke ext turn f r her on, enrie t S the Ca e a a a as a t treet, for th dr l , rem rk ble st nding on the si e of D a C a w c as an act co c R II . w the nish hur h of egin ld , hi h ex py of the D a C t C C c D a ac a nish ryp of hrist hur h , ublin , f t st ted by K H erewaral the Wake an d c ingsley in , proved orrect by the accidental discovery in 1894 that a plan of o ne church coincided

act w t . The a a a ex ly, pier for pier, i h the other origin l c thedr l was 1 1th c t t 1 9 t built in the en ury, rebuil 77 , burn , restored

1818 and c a an d . I , the interior rede or ted modern ised in 1891 t ta a a 14 6 c con ins monument to J mes Rice ( 5 ) whereon he is depi ted, a w as w a ccording to his ish , he ould look twelve months fter death Passing the Cathedral and going back to the Quay by a “ small street farther on we see a ruin known as the French ” c T Chur h . his is the remains of the Holy Ghost Friary founded Hu P 124 by gh urcell in 0.

’ In Regi nald s Tower there probably remain parts of the old fort of Regi n ald the Ostmen who a out th l h 11 n l n h li shed , b e ot or th ce tury a ded ere and estab 132 WATERFORD

“ one of the most im rtant Dani sh settlements i n the coun r E po t y . very ’ im ortant sea ort in Ireland owes its exi sten ce to those sturd Vi in s s n p p y k g o s. So sa s Ki n sle who in hi s Hereward the Wake i s an y g y , g ve interesting sketch ’ of the D ani sh Ki ng s hou se of pi n e logs on Waterf rd Qua and the con o y , orar manners of the settlers Th la e m n h a temp y . e tt r o arc w s the second Re i nald the son of Si tr who en coura ed trade with Fran ce and g , g yg, g Spain , “ ’ ” an d whose tworkmen coi n ed mon e i n the old round tower n y . A ce tury later Waterford p roved itself p owerless before the Normans and yi elded to w oon after H enr II la d Strongbo . S y . n de here, an d at the end of the 12th ur it was f rti ed and a ai n hon oured wi h a Mi n F or su cent y o ﬁ g t t . ccessfully in P er i n War ec the cit rec i from H resist g k b k y e ved enry VII . the motto n acta Man et and from H enr VIII a word of ta e ain I t , y . S S t . Ag st Cromwell f r some time e uall su cessf l ut surr n dered it was o q y c u , b e to Ireton .

' Interesting excursions may be made to Cheekp oi n t H ell D an more 11 and D n n brod A bbe (7 miles), ( § miles), y y, which dates from the 12th century .

To the south lies Tramore (pop . 173 3 H otels Grand Ma a a wa Wa 6 s a rine) , ccessible by r il y from terford, mile , st nding on a bay between Great N ewtown Head an d Brownstown Head an d ac w a t a a the be h , hich is of consider ble exten , is f vour ble for - a . T are a s two c t a a ac b thing here l o oncer h lls, r e course , golf - s an d a t wat an d T s at . link , s l er urki h b hs The pleasantest excursion (good cycli ng) is to GRE AT N E W AD an d METAL MAN N w w C TOWN HE miles) the . e to n ove i s a I t a t s an d at bout Q mile here urn left under spre ding ree , once T a the c f ass the at - a e right . hen long li f edge, p ing b hing pl c s, ” ou a a t w. A a t t y h ve deligh ful blo he d , on the midmos of hree c s the sta a ac Tar unpicturesque olumns, is een unmi k ble J k point a The w are t a ing seaw rd . vie s here very good ; no ice the j gged a t at dark rock of the co s bene h . abbi t B a rrows the as the w an d a h R lies to e t of to n, rep ys t e walk .

r H otel 11 b car Wa a Dunmo e ( ) , miles y from terford, is picturesque little seaside village on the west side of Waterford t a s an d b ac t has a H arbour. I is frequented by b ther y y h smen ,

an d w e w at . To the good stone pier, is ell shelt red from the e her south of the pier is a high promontory called the Black Knob “ ’ S - w c M s Ca (more commonly the hin noon under hi h is erlin ve, a a a s of such a depth th t l ntern is required to explore its rece ses .

WATERFORD TO ROSSLARE.

This forms part of the direct route between England an d R w F a an d R ss Killarney by the G. W. . crossing bet een ishgu rd o WATERFORD TO ROSSLARE 13 3

' a a a w c a The trai ns b ome l re , for p rticul rs of hi h see pink p ges . t Wa m Ma w as F L hrough to terford fro llo , p sing ermoy, ismore , D n D a a a a etc b ac Wat . At u g rv n, . efore re hing erford ung rv n

(hotels) there i s a fine harbour well seen as the train crosses it . Shortly after the line turns inland an d eventually reaches the a s the a Kilmcaden A a t a b nk of Suir t . fine view of this gre t id l i s ta as the a wa s a s river ob ined r il y run long be ide it . Wa t ha n its wa s c . 1 1 O terford i self been des ribed on p 3 . y eastward the train crosses Waterford harbour at a narrow neck an d t a t t a a Clonmi n es a here f er s rikes the he d of Bannow B y . ne r was c an a t t w an d ta a of here on e import n o n, con ins the rem ins a ast It was a m ny mon eries . prob bly one of the first settlements N a of the orm ns .

FE TH ARD 6 iles fr m Clo mi nes I n an i n si n iﬁcan t ﬁshin villa e ( m o n n ) , g g g , stan ds n he sh a F m l s n r h- a f i are the o t west ore of B ann ow B y . i ve i e o t e st o t remai ns o f Ti ntern Abbe fou n ded i n 1200b the E arl of P embroke son -ln y , y , law f r n h h a d n r s a he o St o gbow. T e l egen d states t at, being i n gre t a ge at e , ma de a vow to foun d an abb ey on the sp ot where he shoul d lan d i n safety . H is boat foun d shelter i n B ann ow B a an d here he accordingly establi shed y , a monaster whi ch he eo led with monks from Ti n tern Abb e i n Mon y , p p y mou h hir I hi h t s e. t i s beautiful ly situated i n the demesne of Ti ntern , w c was gran ted b Queen E li z abeth to Sir Anthon Colcl u h to whose family y y o g , it s i l n s t l l be o g . Along the whole of this route one is struck by the splendid at a a n ur l h rbours of the coast . After B ri dgetown we soon arrive at R s a Ha o sl re rbour .

On a t t are St. the ste mer rou e here four ﬁne turbines , the

Patri ck t. D avid S t Geo e an d St An drew the S . r . , , g , , belonging to Great Western Railway of England ; these most comfortable a s are w t a a and a a eto bo t ﬁtted i h every modern ppli nce, the p ss g F s a 2 i hgu rd is only 2hours .

W T R D M D IN A E FOR FRO UBL .

The route as far as Kildare is described under Dublin to Cork a 2 a he s m (p ge 9 egg ) . After changing at Kild re t ﬁr t town of i ta c i s A c w t acc as a as por n e thy (pronoun ed i h ent on l t syll ble, a

5 m Athy (pep . 3 99 : H otel : Leinster Arms) derives its n a e an a c t w a M st c Ae was a from n ien ford here un er hief, , sl in in at h b tle . T e town owes its origin to two monasteries founded in the 13th t . In c the n the cen ury the entre of town, overlooki g “ ’ ” i s W t Ca t the l 6th t b Ea river, hi e s stle , buil in cen ury y the rl K a and n ow as a a ac T a of ild re, used b rr ks . here is lso Woodstock 13 4 KILKENNY

a a t w and h C t e . stle, bove the o n on river Near the town is the “ a c M at ca i tat w 00 th n ient o of de p ion, here 4 of e rulers of the Pa w a sac b I E a t le ere m s red y the rish in the reign of liz beth . A ’ Bath M a at O Conn ell the a hi s the of ullin v , held l st of great “ A tat . At the Meat Ardscul 4 s f gi ion meetings of , mile rom the t w Sc ts E wa B c c a a o n , the o , under d rd ru e , inﬂi ted he vy a the E Ra le G s 1 3 1 defe t on nglish under ymond ro in 5.

651 - Ca ow . 3 H otels : The R a A C rl (pop oy l rms , lub house, I a the c t w a a at mperi l), oun y to n , is f vour bly situ ed on the river

Ba w w c a a b a w to Wa . The rro , hi h is n vig ble y b rges do n terford exchequer of the kingdom was established here in 13 61 by the

D C a c who had the w t . In uke of l ren e, , moreover, to n for iﬁed the wars of the Protectorate the Castle was bombarded by the parlia a ment ry forces under Ireton an d was ﬁn ally surrendered . Of the 12th century castle nothing n ow remains save two corner w s a t 60 t an d wa the st to er bou fee in height, the connecting ll, re a w w t w b a a t an h ving been blo n up i h gunpo der y medic l gen lem ,

who 18 14 c t at c t it t a a c a . , in , on empl ed onver ing in o lun ti sylum Carlow contains a Roman Catholic cathedral noted for its c c at I a a ex essive de or ion . t cont ins the celebr ted monument to b a Bishop Doyle y Hog n .

KILKENNY .

H ru — Club Hous Im r l c r o s e ; p e i a ; Vi to ia . - — S C h re t. P OP. PO T OFFI E . n St e “ T s a c c Fa K as S a i t i s hi n ient ity , ire ilkenny , penser n med , a s a c t ca ass c at well worth vi it, being unusu lly ri h in his ori l o i ions

a ca a . It t at N an d arch eologi l rem ins is si u ed on the ore, here two an d B s K crossed by bridges, the regen divide ilkenny into o n at he two parts . Each had formerly i ts w corpor ion ; but by t It a s a t Municipal Reform Act they were united . bound in qu in x ct c an d a s n a w i ts une pe ed orners , m ny is the intere ti g vist do n back streets .

Many parliaments were held at Kilkenny in the olden time . That of 13 67 ordained the punishment of death to any English I s w a A R an Cat c man who married an ri h om n . rebel or om holi a i am t met r 1 642 w c c c ms an c K P rl en he e in , from hi h ir u t e ilkenny “ ” he Pa a n t the C e at . T i s c alled the City of onf der ion rli me , ’ a s u b the P at us emboldened by s istance bro ght y ope s leg e, ref ed r w the L L a t an d c the to make te ms ith ord ieuten n , in onsequence a w i n 1650 city was besieged an d t ken by Crom ell .

13 6 KILKENNY

6th c In 13th in the entury . the century the church was la a cat a the at att ac th en rged into ﬁne hedr l , but l ter soon r ted e ’ s a an d a t a c t ta i ts a spoiler h nd ; , f er m ny vi issi udes, no bly p rtial st c C w it was ca 18 66 D a de ru tion by rom ell , refully restored in ( e n V s b Sir T as D a ignole ) y hom e ne . The Tower i s st an d has a t e at it intere ing, good v ul ing b ne h . In c t the t t a s t t w w as the the orner (lef ) of nor h r n ep , o her ise kno n ’

Pa C c St. Chi arai n s chai r the C a t H a rish hur h , is ; h p er ouse ne r h s t t a s was he a a t e ou h r n ept originally t L dy Ch pel . ‘ The Mon u ments are a c a t an d p rti ul rly interes ing numerous , an d t w t the a who w cannot be unders ood ithou loc l guide, ill point out ’ as a a a 8 00 a s a o items, from the f hion of l dy s h ir ye r g , to the ’ tat c c w c w at P t a represen ion of the o k hi h cro ed e er s deni l . The famous Fitzgerald monument to the eighth Earl an d his Amazonian ll Countess is in the south transept. A the monuments are in the

- a ac K a . T a c at s home qu rried ﬁne bl k ilkenny m rble hree n ient fe ure , h a w t w w its viz . t e reliqu ry before the es indo , only one of kin d in Ireland the beautiful groinin g beneath the tower ; an d the 13 th a w w s century moulding round the ch ncel indo s, mu t not be ’ s The a c t s c a the t a mis ed . n ien bishop h ir is in nor h tr nsept. a as i s a The modern carving on the st lls is good , lso the beautiful a s I s a w t the c a pavement of v riou ri h m rbles i hin ommunion r ils . O t t a a Rou d T wer a a w u side the sou h tr nsept is n o , of l te d te, ith d an d w w ac a e st t a wa s oor indo f ings of ﬁn r one h n the ll . A t a t s the c e are B ac F a s mong o her ncien building hi f the l k ri r , ’ the F a c ca P St. J ohn s Chu rch w t its c a r n is n riory , , i h h pel of “ a t w ws ca d the La t I a an d the be u iful indo lle n ern of rel nd , olle e G a a Sc C g , or r mm r hool . “ K Sc ca the Et I a a ilkenny hool, lled on of rel nd, enjoyed at and c t a n its c ar the a s D a high reput ion , oun ed mo g s hol s f mou e n “ ’ Sw who t at the t a e si x. Two Sw t s ift, en ered ender g of of if a w cat C n two a s hi s contempor ries ere edu ed there . o greve , ye r w s a was c . F t a t Sw t junior, one of his s hoolfello s our een ye r f er if had t c it was t b G B st e lef the s hool en ered y eorge erkeley, de in d 1 to wi n a a the st an d st an d c t f me of pure highe kind , to ome in o a st an at to Sw ft It w a to ask w at r ge rel ionship i . ould be v in h credit may be claimed by Kilkenny School for thus producing a at t l a t w e c an d the gre test s irist, the mos bri li n rit r of omedies , the a a E n a a Lesli e Ste hen subtlest met physici n in the glish l ngu ge ( p ) .

1 See Cloyne, p . 116.

J ERPOINT ABBEY 137

a t a a ac At Kilkenny several trials for witchcr f h ve t ken pl e, the t 1 3 2 most remarkable being that of Lady Alice Ke tel in 5. t Castlecomer w c a Twelve miles to the nor h is , hi h gives its n me to the coalﬁeld of that district ; an d to the carboniferous lime t Ca c s the a stone of this county the city of S . ni e lend n me of “ w as . he i st ca Kilkenny marble T l me one verns, kno n the ” av s o D u more are a the Ca t c a C e f n , ne r s le omer ro d , 7 miles north K of ilkenny .

0 i t -w s K an d of Freshford Church is 1 m les nor h e t of ilkenny, c a t a a t st acc a mu h n iqu ri n in ere , chieﬂy on ount of its unusu lly ﬁne

a wa . The s an d the Rom nesque door y proportion of its form , a an d a a an d ca i t be utiful el bor te mouldings rvings , give a high M s St ac 1l th an d 12th c w . pl e among entury ork i s okes , in t the tat c t a art I a commen ing on impor ion of on inent l into rel nd , ’ notes that the Byzantine Pai n ters Guide directed that in

s r i a the V ta s St. picture of the C uc ﬁxion , ne r irgin s nd John , in ’ s w hi s c a — as St Moedoc s orro , heek resting on his h nd just on . “ and the s u a the a shrine, culpt red p nels of doorw y of the old ” at church Freshford .

Over the doorway are two bands in scribed i n Iri sh characters as follows , , A ra er for Niam dau h r f nd a h ha a hai rmei c b p y , g te o Cove, a M t g m in O C , y “ whom was mad hi n n e t s church , a d A prayer for Gilla Mocholmoe O Ce ” eu cain who made it.

r int A l T a S a J e p o bbey, ﬁmile from hom stown t tion on the Wa an d K Ra wa an d 12 Kil terford ilkenny il y, miles south of is a C st c a t kenny , ruined i er i n house of much in erest . In ” a n d a c t ctu a s w t a w t N . P e l h, honours , r hi e r l splendours, ri e . “ W s er oin t was b t a c t t illi , J p exceeded y no o her mon sti ins itu ion he a t in Irel and . T demesne l nds ex ended over 1500acres of fertile an d c the a c and t w ground, the buildings in luded bbey chur h o er, a ct an d f c s w c c an a a 3 refe ory , dormitory , o ﬁ e , hi h oc upied re of he a acres . T whole of this was gr nted at the D issolution to ”

T as Ea O e. It was h hom , rl of rmond founded about the 11t 12th t s an d a ts t a t an d or cen urie , the older p r , the r nsep s c a c are the R a the t a h n el , of om nesque order, res being of v rying at The a l er periods . central tower is m ssive and of remarkable c a act The att t w c c he s h r er. b lemen s hi h rown t tower are tated “ b D r a s s y . J me Fergus on to be identical with many found in the t Ita but a t t E a nor h of ly , very unlike ny hing ei her in ngl nd or ” Sc a an d a the w he a otl nd , give foreign look to hole . T door is 138 CORK TO KILLARNEY

c an d Ea E c as ~ uriosity , the rly nglish loisters, well as the monu

t c . The a ai men s , should be noti ed pl ce is s d to have been sacked “ S T a an d C w both by ilken hom s rom ell . The tourist who is desirous of exploring the varied scenery with which the banks of the river Nore abound from Kilkenny to its c w t the Ba w a N ew R w H O A jun tion i h rro , ne r oss, ill ﬁnd T M S ’ TOWN H o el Walsh N . 909 t s : V w c . (pop s , ore ie onvenient

Ke s a s ac T a w S a m w c ll , l o re hed from hom sto n t tion, fro hi h ta t an a c t c b a w it is 7; miles dis n , is n ien ity, founded y follo er ’ Ea St h w cal G f F t -R t c of rl rong o s, led eo frey i z ober , his obje t being a a I s to provide garrison for the subjugation of the Tipper ry ri h . L st the t a s ac to hi s c c ike mo of o her inv ders , he ought pe e cons ien e a s s c a a ca a ac by founding religiou hou e, whi h gr du lly be me pl e of a m s H II incre sing i portance until di solved in the reign of enry VI . he as a a a P the T Prior w spiritu l lord in P rliament. ortions of s c the a s t w s an d a s an d the ruin , omprising rem in of o er h ll ,

a t a a t to the ac . The t w cloisters, still t r ct some t ention pl e o n of h a as was b Kells in t e county of Meath , where mon tery founded y fa St olumbkille a 4 the mous . C , is described p ge 7 . Waterford (page

TO KILLARNEY .

The two main routes from England to Ireland (midland an d a E south) are ri d Kingstown (Dublin) an d Rossl re . ither route is

d W. the G . S an met by a service of fast trains to Mallow on . Ra wa a H c 1 t to il y of Irel nd . ere there is choi e of ( ) going on direc he K a 2 Ban an d Glen ariffe. As t ill rney or ( ) going by Cork , try, g j ourney (2) rid Glengariffe embraces scenery unsurpassed in charm b K a all who are n ot a ss t even y ill rney itself, gre tly pre ed for ime ar s It o a e trongly advi sed to adopt the latter route . sh uld lso be m ar ri d Glen ariffe kept in ind that the views e more striking , the g

a rom K a . At C a route, in journeying towards th n f ill rney ork ma an d e t c a at to c t night y be spent, w mus h nge st ions on inue on the C k an d Ba The ac d Glen ari ﬂe rid or ndon line . co h rive from g Kenmare to Killarney goes through scenery resembling the A a s s a S n a s C to K a r id lpine p s e in gr ndeur . i gle f re , ork ill rney , Glen ariffe s 16s The 3 b Mac is 1 t 2l s . r g , , 3 d . route ( ) y room described on p age 1 48 . PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY .

By the Cork an d B an don Railway (Albert Quay Stati on) .

F or man y o f the plac es reached by thi s most en terp ri sing railway com ’ i n ed Get the Com an s tourist bi n ed hotel an d rail tickets may be o bta . p y r prog amme.

Miles .

I nterm. Tot. Cork to Ban don (rai l) 20 Glengariffe (road) D un man way (rai l) 17 3 74 Ken mare (road) D ri moleagu e (rai l) 81 46 Killarney (road) B antry (rai l) 11g 572

The ro ute obtai ned its name i n 1858 when the Pri nc e of Wales travelled over

‘

n e essar o s a a ni h a Glen a ﬁe. it. It will be c y t t y g t t g ri

Shortly after leaving Cork the railway i s carried over a deep b the C tw V a c 120 an d 100 glen y he ynd i du t, feet in length feet In c s n a w a the c t we in height . ros i g, good vie is obt ined of i y an e a t Wat a a t d th a the w . A h ve lef , of be utiful v lley to est erf ll (65 miles) the distant Kerry mountains are seen bounding the A a a S a we a s western horizon . mile beyond W terf ll t tion p s , on the the Ball macadan e A a 1450 right , ruin of y bbey , founded bout A an d a an a e the for ugustine nuns , ne r it old fort ttribut d to

D a . E a t a 1200 a t nes merging from unnel bout y rds in leng h , M t Ma we ac B a 10 F under oun ry, re h allinh ssig ( miles) . ( rom the station may be seen the aerial ropeway— the only one in Ireland w c c s the bri cks f rom the Balli n helio w s 3 — hi h onvey p ork , 5miles sta t to the stat The a a t a the cast was di n , ion . ) vill ge bou mile to , 1 600 the sc a a t w the E s an d the w in , ene of b t le bet een ngli h follo ers ‘ F c M a h K sa n 13 l a of loren e C rt y . At in le Ju ction ( 4; mi es) a br nch 10 s as to K a (of 31; mile ) p ses south ins le .

4 m KINSAL E o . 250 Hotels n ale Arms i a sea ort and i (p p ; : Ki s , S ea V ew) , p

’ o rtan t fishin stati on i s i ctures u el s ituated on the accli vit of Com ass p g , p q y . y p H ill on a fine na l ha n s , tura rbour formi ng the estuary of the B an don . The Da e are said to h ave attacked first thi s p oi n t o f the c oast ; the Angl o-N orman ’ vaders u i c l saw its advan a es an d i n E dward II s r i n i in q k y t g , . e g t was already an s a Th cas le f th D an import t e town . e t o e e C ourcy s stood here i n the n t r n s f m twel fth ce u y . I on e re ect that a il i s of uni qu e i nterest for the p y , ri vil e e o f remain i n u n covered in resence o n h p g g p f the mo arc , a p ri vilege

last e erci sed at the court o f G eor e IV. was ran ted to a D e ourc x g , g g C y by ’ Kin g J ohn for that kn ight s o ffer to stan d as si ngle-combat champi on o f ’ E n land d uri n the Ki n uarrel wi th F ran ce h o s i r n g g g s q . T e m t mpo ta t ’ event i n Ki n sale s hi stor however was the sei z ure of the to wn i n 1601 b y , , u y ’ ’ n ds r n ila n u o -m the Spa i ar unde J ua D Agu , a d the to gh tw onths task he pro vided for the E n li sh ef re i eldi n t Moun t o F or the un usual g b o y g o j y .

mann er in whi ch the E n li sh l i l r ed h i r or see . g so d ers ce eb at t e vi ct y p . 7 140 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY

- Kinsale thou h much of it i s i n a tumble down condition bears evidence , g , f its former im ortan ce an d i s still a most i nterestin lac o p , g p e to vi sit , with i w half-forei n -loo i n streets the ﬁne ld c wrch ts narro o h of St. Mal , g k g , tose, and the remai ns of Charles F ort i n the mi ddl e of its wi n din g harbo ur. At

‘ on e time it im orted more to acco than an other lace i n Irelan p b y p d (J . Th fin e har ur i s sti ll used naval hi s Coleman . e bo by s and the Ro al Naval ) p , y h i an h e annuall Reserve hold t e r m oeu res er . It i s besides the headquarters v y , , u hern sh ri The d H ad o Ki of the so t fi e es. Ol e f nsale the first B ri ti sh land , m Am mil s ravellers fro eri ca i five e . an n i sightedby t , s S W d conve ently reached ’ r he World s E nd is sai d to be a S ani h l n fer . T Th hy t he y p s co o y . ere i s a h an d de a harl lar e barracks near t e to wn , a pot t C es F ort. At Summer Cove g , i n l i s a a al Re about a mile from K sa e, N v serve battery of importan ce as a trai ni ng centre.

ta U t 1 5 an d I s The next s tion is p on ( 1; miles) , beyond nni hannon c w w an d the w (18 miles) the ountry is ell ooded , line follo s closely t a At 20 along the winding s ream of the B ndon . miles we reach

d n . 283 0 H otel D s A s a c a d Ban o (pop evon hire rm ), le n an - t w the at a 1 608 b well buil to n , on river of th n me , founded in y It was a the ﬂax a the Earl of Cork . here th t industry w s ﬁrst t I b a started in the sou h of reland y Lord Bern rd . a D a Sw a On entering the g tes , e n ift is s id to have written on the wall

w Tur or Athei st ma en r here but n Pa i J e , k , y te , ot a p st.

Some wag added h Whoever wrote t i s, wro te it well , h ame i s written on the ates of hell T e s g .

Ba was b wal an d w t w ndon fortiﬁed y strong ls to ers, but hey ere b a removed y William of Or nge .

A t 1 111. w t w Ca B a s at bou s es of the to n is stle ern rd , the e of the Ea Ba w i s ad c t Sun rl of ndon, to hich there free mission , ex ep on da C a s are C a a a b the ys . he p ticket issued from ork v il ble y noon a B a c t c ac s to H a V w t tr in , to ntry in onnection wi h o he rbour ie (ho el an d at K tta T a u a I a golf links ilbri in), imole g e, lso to nnish nnon , w a a a d C t a a . D . o nd niel stle , etc , the l ter y trip From Bandon we follow the course of the river through a a a an d w -w c t ass the tat s C a ple s nt ell ooded oun ry, p ing s ion of lon kilty Junction (3 3 ) (change for Clonakilty an d Courtmacsherry D esert an d Balin een A ss the Ba we a the l t the fter cro ing ndon river, h ve on ef ruined Ba aca a Ca an d at D u nman wa 3 8 s llyn rrig stle ; y ( mile ) , formerly s a ca c t c w and un posses ing stle , the oun ry be omes ilder more c a e a D ri mole u e 56 the c ultiv ted till w re ch ag ( 5 miles) , jun ti on

142 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY

Crookhaven a a men and skilful pilots . is sign lling station for the A t c ff C a - ships to or from tlan i . O rookh ven is the well known

Fastnet Lighthouse .

After leavin g Drimoleague (page 140) we pass bogs an d bleached s awa to M Ow ﬁr root y the right is ount en .

’ E L of th s Vi cker s i s the est . HOT S e e, y b

r Glen ariffe road Kenmare r d D I STAN CE s : Co k g ( ) , (ea ) , 295 r ad 49 C as letown-B erehaven 33 chull 1 Killarn ey (o ) , h; t , ; S , 7?

H E To Glen ari e an d Ki llarne see in a es. T as l COAC E S , TC . g ﬁ y, p k p g o C t etown r i rvi e f s eamers and a mail ~ car Berehacen the e s a se c o t .

“ the a wa w a d This, terminus of the r il y, is ell situ te on the ” ba I a w c a . Of al th finest y in rel nd , ith s enery to m tch l e harbours cutting up this wonderful coast between Kenmare and a a Ba Ba the t In Cork into rocky he dl nds , ntry y is fines . the a the ac a w a O mackerel se son pl e is live ith fishing bo ts . nce a a F i ts a a oe A year the Ch nnel leet holds here utumn m n uvres . the L ad E lsi e the a w B a t an d steamer, y , plies in se son bet een n ry ariffe an d a b a a c c b sea Gleng , p ssengers y r il h ve the hoi e of going y c c a a instead of coach, the ti kets being inter h nge ble . Those who have been to Dublin Museum will remember the skeleton of the whale (65 feet long) hanging there which was ba caught in this y . “ In 1796 the French Fleet arrived here the second time for ’ I a En a a a al the w the invasion of rel nd ; but gl nd s n tur l lies , inds wa a a t a to ff ct a an i and the ves, being g inst them , hey f iled e e l d ng a w t t a o an d soon set s il , ith the excep ion of one vessel h t g t ‘ ’ an d a e the Ta ta w was a as a wrecked, noth r, r re, hich t ken prize ” B s d Whi dd I sland between Ba t t . r of war in o Cork e i es y L n y and

n ariffe I sland o B are . 145 a t the Ba Gle g , the f (p ) gives v rie y to y surface. At B antr t i s sea-ﬁshin G a t y here excellent g ( r n ) , good

and s m a t . E i the t t w bathing, o e u umn shooting nter ng li tle o n

9 o . a wa w (3 10 p p ) from the r il y, one is struck by the idth of the BANTRY 143

e a w c at a a a bi bare op n sp ce hi h possesses , le st, one ttr ction in its g ” E t a name of ger on Squ re . D escending to the harbour you take the left road for Bantry H us e the Ea B a t rounds o en o , formerly belonging to rl of n ry (g p es A s t sta a a the severe dai ly n o cycl ) . hor di nce long this ro d is

at wa w w c a a to the . The looking g e y, ithin hi h drive le ds up house s a w art but a at a t latter i no gre t ork of , p h le ds up to the lef through dainty gardens an d up some terraces to a splendid view All a Ba Ba w Whidd point. the he d of ntry y lies before you , ith y ’ I Glen ariﬁe S a L a M a t and sland, g , the ug r o f ount in on the lef ,

t tc ca . The t t Ba n ow some ﬁne s re hes of lo l scenery i le of ntry, was c a t the c Mr a t ct . W ex in , re ted in recogni ion of servi es of hite, he 1 9 as l m n a a at t 6 J . Co e a loc l l ndlord, the time of 7 inv ion ( ) . The sea or road excursion to Berehaven (see above) an d the

o G . 141 are w road trip t oleen (p ) ell worth doing . w at ca Glen ariffe ma a a Should the e her be lm , g y be re ched by a ac Ba t Ba the c a w c i delightful s il ross n ry y, unique h rm of hi h s

wa a . P a a in this y more fully re lised edestri ns, inste d of following car Glen arif e an d K a w ta a the route to g f enm re, ill ob in more thorough knowledge of the character of the mountainous r egion to the b t n at S n are B ri d e 6 mi les an d north y urni g up g , , then 1 to Sa S c an d P t L 2 o either ( ) ns ou i , over ries eap ( 000 feet) t Kenmare (24 mi les) ; or (2) bearing north -east over the hills to Ki a a S a 24 mi les K a 3 3 mi les lg rv n t tion , , or enm re 1 . For those wishin g to proceed by the Pri nce of Wales route to ’ Ki llarney there is a car from Vickery s Hotel in waiting at the

tat . A a t a at s a nts s ion h l being m de the t tion for refreshme , Glen ariﬂe 11 s a t the journey to g ( mile dist n ) is resumed . It cc a an an d a a an d i s a ta o upies bout hour h lf, usu lly ken leisurely , t at the c ma Th h s enery y be more fully enjoyed . e road bounds t a ba w h a we the nor hern m rgin of the y, of hic , s reach higher we a a t t ground, h ve deligh ful prospec , the Chapel Islands and Whidd I a a t nd h y sl nd being p ssed on the lef , a t e picturesque Ca a M a w S a L a h ount ins, ith ug r o f in the foregroun d, looming a the di a A t a gr ndly in st nce . bou mile beyond Bantry we cross the Meala h w c river g , hi h , on the left, forms the fantastic falls of D un n amark a w c c t , ne r hi h on e s ood a castle built in the reign of

K h . H a n an a ing Jo n ere, ccordi g to old tr dition , human foot st I ﬁr trod on rish ground . At Ball licke 3 w we ar y y ( miles), here e joined by the road from Mac v a and a room , the ne is crossed, , mile an d a half farther 144 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY

C a w c L N ambrackder a on , the oomhol , hi h rises in ough g, moun a ta c the a s ac t in rn o cupying side of prehi toric gl ier . This region may be explored by taking the central of the three roads a a v a On wa o immedi tely fter crossing the ne . the y t Glen ' ariﬁe we a the Kn ockli n e M a 1 61 m e g p ss ount in ( 5 feet) , so e mil s to t an d Cobdh uv 1244 t c at a . S t the righ , ( fee ) , lose h nd hor ly ’ a t wa we u s R c s H t c a a f er rds enter the gro nd of o he o el , omm nding w Glen ariffe H a an d the a a M The ﬁne vie of g rbour C h ountains . car a t w a s s s , f er stopping to set do n p s enger , proceed one mile a t a at E s H at the a the f r her to its destin tion ccle otel, he d of a h rbour .

! ’ ’ Glen ari ﬂe H otels : R c a a E cc g ( o he s , very ple s nt les , good) . ” The a a an d s to the c s r n me me ns rugged glen, refer ro k of eve y a w c c w c s f v riety of form hi h ro d it in bewildering onfu ion . Lo ty mountains of the same wild irregular outline surround it on the a t and w t w i s ha w i e s , north, es ; hile in front the y , ith ts s tc the sea an t winding shore stre hing out to open , d i self t w t a tast c c s ts w t s s udded i h numerous f n i ro ky i le , hose ou line ,

' the wa add a t a w tc reflected in the depths of ter, ddi ion l i hery 1 t the c o s ene. The crevices of the rugged ro cks are filled with a luxuriant ta w c t an d beautifies t u a t s vege tion , hi h sof ens heir irreg l r ou line , The s the c a an d clothes them in a vivid green . mildne s of lim te a s c as an d s to a nu permits even ger nium , fu hsi , myrtle rem in a S a t ca an d t a sheltered throughout the ye r . ever l ropi l sub ropic l a are to w c w w E pl nts be found here , hi h gro no here else in urope, he a ai r w t the t w s s to all the an d t b lmy , i h frequen sho er , give

es an d . The a t s vegetation a wonderful richn s profusion rbu u , an d c s a a w to holly, bir h envelop the rock in luxuri nt foli ge do n ’ the water s edge .

“ The long promontori es which j ut out alon g the southern coast are the n ds o n The serri d extremi ties of mountain ridges of Lower Old Red Sa t e. e

‘ f l n ariﬁe washed b the waters of B an tr B a are erha s the ridges o G e g , y y y , p p i n h n seen from the o osite shore a ains t the l owi n most strik ng ; a d , w e pp g g g back roun d of an even in sun set afford stu di es of shade an d colour for the g g , n n ot often sur assed i n de th an d ri chn ess of ton e amon st the pai ter, p p g H B ri ti sh Isles (Professor ull) .

' Glengariﬁe i s strongly recommended by medical authorities

1 Ri a There i s a glowi ng description in The Si nner ( t ) .

GLENGARIFFE 1 45 as a health resort in winter for all suffering from chest and lung a Its c a i s an d and compl ints . lim te mild uniform , the mountains t - ast an s protect it on the nor h e d we t . The pretti est bit of the village itself is -the charming view ’ of the rui ns of Cromwell s B ridge seen from the modern he a a On an a ba a a bridge on t m in ro d . isl nd in the y is m rtello tower. for a an d len ariffe a Both bot nists geologists, G g is district of espe cial interest an d for other persons making a lengthened stay a a a a n an d an d " there are bund nt f cilities for bo ti g ﬁshing, for Ca a M a an d w various excursions to the h ount ins else here . The a a - ar a a Glen ariffe Ca w B ars 22 d ily m il c lso p sses g for stleto n , miles a the a S a L a an d Ca a M a b long b se of the ug r o f h ount ins, y the ' Glen ariﬁe H a an d Ba Ba shore of g rbour ntry y . Repaying excursions can be made to Adrigole Waterfall (about 13 i t a a a A t 10 m les) on the lit le h rbour of the s me n me . bou miles farther west along the northern shore of the bay is Castletown B ehaven H otel a B ere I sland A 3 er ( ) , ne r . bout miles south w a a the Ca of D unbo est long the co st is old stle y , whose famous 1602 a a I s a siege in forms most memor ble incident in ri h nnals . “ The a a t the a D un bo retre t, f er f ll of y, of the senior members of ’ the O sullivan -Reave family with many of their followers from t a c a a to I a heir n estr l l nds here, the north of rel nd, whence they t a a S a th ul im tely emigr ted to p in, is one of e most thrillin g epi ” s des at a st T ca an o in our n ion l hi ory . his old stle d the coast ’ f c c Mr. F n s t The Two Chi e orm the s ene of mu h of ro de s ory, fs of

D un bo . The a i s g ﬁne modern m nsion near. The quiet western port is the headquarters of the Atlantic F an d a a b the F leet is visited nnu lly y Channel leet (p .

' The car rom Glen ar e to Ki llarn e a t f g iﬁ y, f er receiving passengers

’ ’ ” R c s H a t E c s H from o he otel , st r s from c le otel in the early ’ . The sta to K a c cli n 6 mi les ushi n morning di nce ill rney (y g, p g, then ood i s 3 8 the st ta e g ), 1 miles, ﬁr s ge b ing to Kenmare (171 w are c a an d a miles), here horses h nged , stop of half an hour a . Pass t the a Glen ariffe m de for luncheon ing hrough vill ge of g , we ta the a to the t a ke ro d righ , h ving on the left Glengarif e L od e s a L Ba g , formerly one of the e ts of ord ntry . Beyond this i s ’ ” the Ea s N t an a re01 i ce gle es , in ccessible p p . ’ A Crosster B ri d e t the Na a S h fter crossing y g , opposi e tion l c ool , the a a a a on left, the ro d gr du lly scends, and magniﬁcent views I O 146 PRINCE OF WALES ROUTE TO KILLARNEY are a a and Ba a obt ined of the surrounding mount ins ntry B y . I a w i s the a P an d Ba mmedi tely belo v lley of the roudly, rley Lake the Ca a M ta s is a it a c sun on h oun in seen bove , gl n ing in the . To the t we see P L a a a n right, in fron , the riest e p ro d, le di g across he a to K a G a a asc h t mount ins ill rney. r du lly ending t e Eek ’ M ta w c s we a s T r oun in in inding urve , p s under w ner s Rock by a tu n n el a 200 a c muddy bout y rds in length, onnecting the counties an W we i t a s of Kerry d Cork . hen emerge from gorgeou prospect st the a s a who s bur s upon stoni hed tr veller, behold in one grand a a a t a the S e ac b the a e panor m the be u iful v lley of he n , b ked y j gg d ’ Mac illi cudd s R an d Ma M ta an d tops of g y eeks, ngerton oun in the the Pa s w s w a a summits of p , ho e bold , ild forms, seen in cle r d c a e e an . atmosphere , en h nt both y mind e n ow w the S to K a a the W follo heen enm re , p ssing on left aca a M a 1 23 8 t an d a Derryn her gh ount in ( fee ) , in front of it Roman a c c a C tholi h pel .

li ill ﬁn d this on e of the randes descents in ev r r t Cyc sts w g t , e y esp ec , in

the kin dom. A halt of five mi n utes shou ld be made n ear B unan e be ond g , y ri o tai n the eautiful vi ew down the va e f m Releagh B dge, to b b ll y ro the bridge i h f n over the falls j u st r t o the road . D ow stream i s a ri ver lan dsca e of , g p n h fore round the fall s an d the fir- rees rare beaut . I t e g t ; be on d more y y , nd soft reen meadows far awa the unu suall fin e outlin e of h firs, a g ; y y t e “ " i n s er Ki llarn e throu h all the thread of the sil ver mounta ov y ; g y Sheen.

ur d with a S e tem er sun set ou will not for et this em. If favo e p b , y g g

a a c w K a Ba As We gr du lly des end, our vie of enm re y widens an d c the w a a o an d extends ; rossing river , here ro d goes ff (left) a b La w we to Bereh ven , y the nsdo ne suspension bridge, enter a Kenm re .

1 H otels : G a S t t Kenmare (pop . 122 ; re t ou hern , ﬁrs class ;

w A s 3. cl ean t w two at ss ts Lansdo ne rm ) , o n of fe urele stree , is the t the Ma s La s w a e proper y of rqui of n do ne , h ving b en founded in r W l a P t It s a a Si . t t 1 670 by his ncestor, i li m e ty is ﬁnely i u ed on b a a s th K a s a s . e enm re river, here p nned y l rge su pen ion bridge Its chief attraction consists in its position as the chief southern a c to the K a c an d entr n e ill rney distri t, the splendid scenery of

the Waterville Promontory . C ac s a Parkn asilla 15 Wa i 3 o he run d ily to , miles ; terv lle, 7 ’ ahi rci veen 4 i s Glen ariﬁe 1 an d Kil miles ; C , 7 m le ; g , 73; miles ; i s 1 to Mac an d 16 to S a 21 i . It 3 . l rney, m les miles room § neem h oach or Ki llarne a t n c s a ts the r T e C f y , f er lu h , t r over b idge Fin nih an d 5 summi t across the y, climbs up ; miles to the of the

MACROOM ROUTE TO KILLARNEY

MA M CROO ROUTE TO KILLARNEY.

B Railwa fr m Ca well Stati on C r to Macroom thence b a h y y o p , o k , ; y co c .

CORK . Mi le s . Macroom (rai l) 245“ S nave B ridge (car) Glengariﬁe (car) Inchigeelagh (car) 3 45 Ken mare (car) Pass of Keiman eigh (car) 445; Killarney (car)

The journey to Killarney by Macroom affords the Opportunity of vi sitin g ass of K - - Gouganebarra and the P eiman eigh . Well app oi n ted four horse coaches ru dai l Sun da s e ce ted etween Macroom an d Ki llarne n, y ( y x p ) b y mm h ri d Glen ariffe etc . Pro ra e from t e Cor and Macro m Direct g , g k o “ Railwa Ca w ll Cor . y, p e , k

d One of the best cycling excursions round Cork i s the one here descri be . The railway i ssues sp eci al passenger an d cy cle tickets combin ed at very l ra es 48 3 ra lass arr he cli st to Ma ro m and rin him ow t ( . c ) to c y t cy c o b g ac an As he r ad frcm Ma r om thr u h the I nchi eela h b k from B try . t o c o o g g g

Valle i s n earl all downhill this i s well w rth doin . Di stance 29 y y , o g mil s e .

a a w c the Lee From Cork the r ilw y follo s the ourse of . - Ba n O . 7 46 6 s w s a a lli collig (p p , 2mile ) possesses po der mill , c v lry an a a ac an d a ca t a c to the d inf ntry b rr ks , ruined old s le, on ro k S a a Kilumn e S a 9 we see left . hortly fter p ssing y t tion ( 3 miles) the t Ki lcrea A bbe the on right the ex ensive ruin of y, founded for F a c a 1465 B D ooni ske we the Lee r n isc ns in . eyond y cross river , an d ta a V oolco er B the t a w c ob in iew of C w ridge on lef , bove hi h the Laney and Sullane join the Lee.

Ma ro H otel : W a an a w c om ( illi ms), old m rket to n, is the ' a wa It a a he as terminus of the r il y. is built on slope t t b e of S H a Ma h-crom-tha I n leveen ill, hence the n me g , in rish meani g “ ” a . It a a a t sa inclining pl in possesses the squ re keep of c s le, id a Carews K It to h ve been built by the in the reign of ing John . a t a Sir W a P at the cl ims to be the bir hpl ce of illi m enn , f her of

P a a. It was ta b Si r C a s t founder of ennsylv ni ken y h rle Wilmo , ’ E za G a s 1602. H Ma 1650 the one of li beth s ener l , in ere, in y , t t a B R s a the C was i ul r ishop of os , in prep ring for relief of lonmel , a Bro il a ta defe ted by Lord gh l n d ken prisoner . K a ma ea Macrecm b a ct t ill rney y be r ched from y dire rou e , KILLARNEY BY MACROOM 149

w t a S a to Ba an follo ing ﬁrs the v lley of the ull ne llyvourney , d b G F s a ta a 3 6 descending y len le k, the tot l dis nce being bout miles . The s a wa is w to rid Ba t Ba and u u l y , ho ever, proceed n ry y Glen ' ariﬁe — I c a t t at a A g the n higeel gh rou e being h usu lly chosen . fter to the t we the Ga a Va b the T turning lef enter rr lley y river oon , “ w t its ta wat c w o i h ngled er ourses inding through the moor . T the t a a are a righ , bove the v lley , the rocky ledges c lled the Gri an an an d a t a n w D un dareirke a ; f er p ssi g the ruined to er of , ‘ M Carth s a c t c at fortress of the y , on pre ipi ous ro k the junction T an d the Lee we t a cc s of the oon , journey hrough su es ion of an d t we a In h ee a h 1 steep rugged glens, un il re ch c ig l g ( 0 miles ’

Mac H otel an a . The from room) ; the , ngler s resort, is good -ﬁshin L A a 1 the Lee ee an d trout g on ough lln , 1 mile up , is fr , - salmon ﬁshi ng can be obtained occasionally . At B ealan ageary (15 miles) the left road is followed for 3 miles ; then at the road-fork a digression is generally made to

t Gou ane arra a . visi the lough of g b , bove on the right

o On this wild water are the ruins of the cell of St . F innbarr, who i s said t i n hi name to he s h ave g ve s t pot . “ Th 2oth ou Pa D e mile brings y to the ss of the eer, or

i h a I a . L Keiman e g , one of the impressive p sses of rel nd ord Ba w a a w at 19th ntry , ith sm ll follo ing, the beginning of the a a t a t m Ca ta R who century , m de frui less t e pt to dislodge p in ock , , a a had c a w a an w , . ith ‘ g g of ild m r uders oc upied the p ss As we Ba Ba us and descend , ntry y opens before , , joining the a Ba at Suave B 4 f the t w we ro d from ntry ridge, 5 miles rom o n, proceed by the route already described to Glengariife and Killarney (page KILLARNEY .

HOTE LS — Great Southern R i d a lway) ; Royal Vi ctori a, well situate , a out l mile n h - b ort west from stati on Lake ri ht on la e. Th ese l ; , g k three are a solutel ﬁrs - las an - - r ar es b y t c s d up to date. Others whe e ch g would n ot be so hi h ew il n d the g , N Ra way) , recently ope e by railwa and close to the stati on deser es e l n i on it i s an y , , v sp cia me t , attempt to gi ve all essenti als to comfort i n a simpl er way an d on more reasona l e terms than has hither o n i al he lain e b t bee an hotel de . T p y t ff ti ve l e ec in es of its furni shi n sch m a l man . It e e e c . will ea to g , t pp y deserves imitati on elsewhere Lake i w m ran small ranch of . V e te e ce b ( p ) , Metro ole Cor F les h i n p , k ; h S eheree House, p ens o .

’ ’ At Muckross 3 miles - clc ss ul n s (k ) . Mu ro O S li va .

’ In the tow m d d e an d man others n are raha s s. 6 . r a Gleb . : G , 8 p e y ; , y

D I STAN CE S ROAD — u li n al 4 Ken mare 20 ( . D b Cork, 56 M lo w 6 ; , ) , 3 ; , ‘ Glen ariﬁe 3 8 B an r ah n 3 Waterville b Glen g , 4; t y , 482; C irci vee , 9; ( y h i h a e g ) , Tr l ee, 20.

l - K ar e I s Ci l ai rn e C c S . ill n y (ri h, , the hur h of the loes pop t a b the a has hough inh bited chieﬂy y poorer cl sses , some good shops, and a T com of l te years has been considerably improved . here is fortable ac a i s w c commod tion for v sitors in the numerous hotel , hi h are an a a to all s s For s t s in scending sc le suit pur e . po i ion of t see he a i s at a t an d ho els plan . T vill ge situ ed bou one mile a a - a L Lean e L w h lf from the north e st margin of ough , or the o er La At had s t w a s ke . one time it iron mel ing orks, but the furn ce w a a a o an d K a n ow w ere put out m ny ye rs g , ill rney is holly t T a a w dependent on its visi ors . r desmen, bo tmen, guides , orkers

a t w an d are a a . in rbu us ood, drivers the chief inh bit nts

The Roman Catholi c Cathedral is a very imposing building . The t the a b its ea an d severi y of interior i s incre sed y gr t height,

the cc wa b . The by stu o of the lls, relieved only y cold grey stone several carved reredoses above the altars are exceedingly rich an d a at The S chool o A rts and Cra ts a t el bor e . f f , hriving industry, s ss h s astlerosse ul which owes its ucce to t e Viscountes C , sho d be - an d w ca s . visited , the ood rving een h E K a T e ﬁne mansion of the arl of enmare, very extensive

EXCURSIONS FROM KILLARNEY 151

u ct an d a s a c castellated str ure in red brick s nd tone, l tely ere ted , wn adjoins the to .

’ D m -Of several ates he D eena h Gat i s Lord Ken mare s e esne. g t g e the pri n hi s i s O osite the Roman Catholic Cathedral and i s the ro er c ipal . T pp , p p

h ard n s whi ch are ver ﬁn e i ndeed. The vi ew f h en trance for t e g e , y O t e lake i s l en did In clu si ve char e at all entran ces for vi sitors wi th or wi thou sp . g ( t

cles 6d . H ours 7 to 7 . cy ) , , The Lakes Of Killarney are situated i n a basin between several ’ ta s s a u t the wat moun in groups, ome ri ing br p ly from er s edge . The special charms Of the scenery may almost be said to arise from t c t ast an d i ts s a E its mul iform on r s endles v riety . ven in regard to colour this holds good the rich vegetation which clothes the

a s an d the s s Of s s t an s ha isl nd ide the hill pre en s m y diver iﬁed s des, t Of the a t the t n the brigh green rbu us being mos promi ent, except w s s c b the a w in autumn , hen thi is u ceeded y p le yello of i ts w c at a a a a s a berries , hi h l er on ch nges gr du lly into bright c rlet. The tourist who has only one day to spare i s advised to take the c w w c a a excursion des ribed belo , for hi h rr ngements should be w t t - a 8 ac a . C . but m de i h the ho el keeper h rge 7 e h, not less than a I a 21s acc a s. a . epted ; ponies extr , lso toll he d .

The Ga bad a p is possible for cyclists but very , ro ds stony with t sharp urns .

KIL LARN E Y TO TH E GAP OF D UN LOE B Y CAR TH ROUGH TH E GAP ON OOT , , F OR B Y PONY To THE EAD OF TH E UP PE R L AKE WH E RE A B OAT S H OULD H ,

B E IN WAITIN G F OR THE RE TURN J OURN E Y B Y TH E TH RE E L AKE S .

Miles .

larn to wn H ead of U er L a e Kil ey . pp k ‘ ’ a M Carth s I l nd Agh do e rui n s y s a . h h h E a l e I slan d Ag ad oe C urc g . A hado e H ou se g Ar butus I slan d. Kilal ee Church ruin s N ewfoun dlan ( ) d B ay . B eaufort H ou se E n ter L on g Ran ge D un loe Castle Man - i - O War Ro ck. ’ ’ Kate Kearne s Cotta e E a l y g g e s N est . Cosaun L ough E nter Middle L ake by Old Weir Cushvall ey Lough B ridge Au ur L ou h an d Pi e Roc g g k k D ini sh Island . Blac L ou h k g B ri ckeen I sland . Gap Cottage E nter L o wer Lake by B ri ckeen B ri d e s g (Ca/r stop . Contin ue on foot

Glena B a . or en y p s. ) ’ ’ l an a ’ O sul i v s C scade. Site Of Lord B randon s Cottage I nn i sfallen (rui n ed abb ey) Proceed by boat (whi ch should Ross I sland (ruin ed castle) Lan d here or at Muckross 152 E XCURSIONS FROM KILLARNEY

The R a V c a G a S u an oy l i tori , re t o thern, d Lake Hotels have lan din ~ laces the L g p on ough .

Proceeding down the main street of Killarney we turn to the at the Town H all a w s n left , holding ne rly due e t . O the outskirts ’ Of the w we a the B s s a a a to n p ss on right the i hop p l ce , Rom n Ca c ca a an d as an d the n tholi thedr l mon tery, on the left mai ’ t a c to E a Of K a s E t en r n e the rl enm re s ground . i her going or re turning i t is well for the cyclist to ride through these grounds t w w the a at all If the a o her ise he ill not see l ke . he keeps to ro d, a t D een a h R B a Of t lit le beyond the g iver ridge, detour some ex ent , a ma a the t to s t he a up hill , y be m de to righ vi i t vener ble ruin s Of

A hadoe a c s and c a g , perched on pie e of ri ing ground , omm nding a f ean e full view O Lough L .

“ TH E CASTLE is but a fragment Of a tower about 3 0 feet in

. Of a c a c s are a t height its found tion or o cup tion no re ord ext n , “ ’ ” a The B s s C a and but the titles given by tr dition , i hop h ir “ ” The P w cat a had a ulpit, ould seem to indi e th t it been origin lly c the residence of the bishop of the dio ese . “ TH E CH URCH w t s Wi ndele a low O c on , ri e , is blong building, two s c a Of a a n a sisting of di tin t ch pels , unequ l ntiquity , lyi g e st and west of each other that to the east i s in the Pointed style ” 115 i and a d H T the na ve ( 8 ) , dedic te to the oly rinity ; other , the , t R a a ac was a hough of om nesque ch r ter , prob bly built some c i N a s and ma a centuries before the om ng of the orm n , y h ve a T ar a t c a c a Of S . F e a suc eeded the e rlier h pel t ini n . hese sep r ed b a wa w c t was a communi ca y solid ll, through hi h here once had r c the tion, but it been closed up long before the dest u tion of

building . t a ca TH E ROUND TOWE R is in no better condition h n the stle . Its a i s at Its present height is hardly 15 feet . m sonry gre ly a The are a a superior to th t of the church . stones l rge , regul r , and a a a Of well dressed . The gre ter p rt of the f cing stone the north side has been unfortunately taken away for the erection Of - M S a s a tombs in the adj acent burying ground . iss tokes ssign 12 a th century d te .

we a a a ur Continuing the drive for another mile, t ke sh rp t n w w we a A hadoe H to the left , before hich, ho ever, p ss g ouse, the ’ a Of a A a a Of a s pleasant m nsion Lord He dley . fter qu rter mile t - a c we a a t a t n drive in a sou h e stern dire tion , t ke no her sh rp ur to

and o the ma a Ga . TO t the right, s rejoin in ro d to the p our lef

154 THE BLACK VALLEY

. It ta c to he d spot s nds lose t Woo work F actory Gap House - where the many -coloured arbutus wood i s worked into

a a t st c . The a w c i s a w v rious r i i forms ro d, hi h f irly ide , well w an d a A L c s s Loe orn, steep bove uger ough, ro se the by means Of bridges . “ At the Of Cosaun L Ca a D c t foot ough pt in oyle , orne in a wa c ou the Ga w t ca h nd , its to introdu e y to p i h musi l honours . Of a t a c a s the his v rie ies the l ughing e ho is perh p best . The part of the glen which attracts most admiration i s that “ ” w the a c c a and ca here v lley be omes ontr cted, is lled the Pike .

Ca are ta Ga C a rs not ken beyond the p ott ge, from whence the tourist may either walk or ride (ponies are always in readi ness) the 3 miles to the point of embarkation at the Upper

La . T t a w t a ke ou ers frequent this v lley i h c nnon , which a awa the a c w they disch rge in order to ke m gniﬁcent e ho, hich a p sses from hill to hill .

E the Ga at i ts we c w t merging from p upper end , ome i hin ”

t Of The B a k Va . It ma a t a D r sigh l c lley y be dmi ted , s ys . “ c I ri sh N ames o Places t a the r ct Of t s Joy e in f , h t di e ion hi a w a the at the da w V i t s v lley ith reg rd to sun, time of y hen si or a i t has c w Of i gener lly see , some inﬂuen e in rendering the vie t indistinct ; bu t it certainly is not blacker than many other valleys among the Killarney mountains an d the imagination Of

' touri sts i s ca and are t a a s descri led ptive, they be r y ed into f l e p Of ca has ca B ac tions its gloominess , be use it been lled the l k

a w c i s a at all . The a t Of wa V lley, hi h not its n me v rie y ys in w c the a b ff w Co omdhuv hi h origin l is spelled y di erent riters , , mad u oom d u mmeen dhu e c i t a an oo h v C h v Cu v t . C , y , , , m gh le d y one to suspect that there was something wr ong in the transla a w t B a Va w tion where s , if it ere in ended for the l ck lley , it ould a he mdhu and s . TO an I c t be Coo v, nothing el e rish s hol r, pro n unci ati on Of the natives makes the matter perfectly clear and I almost regret being obliged to give i t a much less poetical in er retati on T a a cal Coom-cc-wi v t s t p . hey inv ri bly l it (hi imper tl t the c a c w w fec y represen s pronun i tion, ex ept only the , here i s a a t at s s E w there soft guttur l h doe not exi t in nglish) , hich ’ " - - Who c as Cu m u i D hu i bh O D uﬁ s Va . will be re ognised , lley ’ c ta this O D uff was I have not been able to as er in . r i ndele sc a z— Ou the M . W thus de ribes the v lley our right lies a s a Of C Dhuv an a t a deep , bro d , de ol te glen oom , mphi he tre buried

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 155

and a a a w at the base , hemmed in by v st m sses of mount in , hose rugged sides are marked by the course of descending streams . It is a great pity th at so ﬁne a pass should be rendered impracticable

an d a s so c c st i ts n a wa . for motors , lmo t for y li s , by shocki g ro d y A little outlay on the part Of the authorities would double an d f s t r B ut all the a s a K a treble the number O vi i o s . ro d bout ill rney he st c are a disgrace to t di ri t. ca s t The Lakes ar e situ ated in the rboniferou limes one , but send a long arm southwards into the heart of the mountains Of

d S a t w c at the B ac Va Lower Old Re nds one , hi h termin es in l k lley, an d sa a cu l-de-sac b st c ffs s c a gloomy v ge , bounded y eep li tret h f H u ll ing along the eastern shoulder O the Reeks ( ) . — On making our descent from the Gap we take a sharp and to ’ st a — c wa s Of Feabrah s cycli s , d ngerous urve to rd the foot y noble a s 1 4 t an d ac w Gearhameen St a cr g ( 8 9 fee ) , then b k do n to re m,

as the c p sing s hool ,

H ard b whi ch i s the cotta e of r n n e who ma es as ood a uide [ y g M . Ta g y , k g g u Carran u a - p t ohill nd the Reeks as hi s good lady i s a caterer for tea drinkers . Thi s i s a sta in - la r h s l e t Arran e rt g p ce fo t e a cent Of Garrantu ohi l , 3 414 f e . g m n R D e ts for h a n sh ul ma a d r s : Mr . t e sce t o d be i n dva c st A d es . . de n e, by p o . Tan ne Gearhame n eaufo Killarne g y , e , B rt , y . ! an d the road (right) which threads the fairy glades of Owen

rea h Glen . Co t c t the a c ss s the an d g n inuing dire , ro d ro e bridge a t a wa to Gearhameen D e e l s W the le ds hrough ll em sn ( . ) ithin “ ’ ” wa are Wa t n s ca L B a C tta ll the i i g room lled ord r ndon s o ge, w tea can had c a th here be , or lun heon, ordered beforeh nd from e an d b at an d a a Of hotel , brought up y the bo s ; p th i mile s the a descend to Upper L ke . The track that leads Off (right) through the thick woods an d b ogs to D errycunihy Falls should not be attempted ex cept on

a . Verbum sa horseb ck p .

THE AKE O L S F KILLARNEY.

It is only by a row on the lakes that the loveliness of their s can a The an cenery be fully re lised . ch ging contours of the a s the a a mount in , luxuri nt foli ge clothin g the winding shores of the a an d the s a t the n l kes lesser hill djoining hem, umerous s a dot t a are s a u i lets th t heir surf ce, in thi w y seen to m ch better advantage than on land an d indeed no one can be said to have really visited the Lakes Of Killarney who has not enjoyed the as Of a row ple ure over them . 156 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY

The U er Lake a dr as a 4 0 pp in y se on covers only bout 3 acres .

Its w at its w i s a 21 s length hen lo est bout } mile , but after a ﬂood a 3 . T the a Of the a bout miles hough sm llest three l kes , it is gener a c n s the a lly o idered most be utiful . This is owing to its proximity ta s w c two s s a to the moun in , hi h on ides ri e bruptly from the ’ wa w a ter s edge , hile in the dist nt west the Reeks

Li ft to the clouds their cra heads on hi ggy gh, ” Crown ed with tiaras fashi on ed in he sk t y .

‘ The w a w t Mr . C Of h ild gr ndeur, ri es oyne, t e Upper Lake strikes the Observer on ﬁrst beholding it with feelings of awe and a a P t dmir tion . erfectly dis inct in the character of its romantic a Of T and L w La scenery from th t the orc o er ke, it combines a Of t a t Of w an d wa all e m ny the sof er be u ies ood ter, with th stern Of ta c The M a reality moun in s enery . Purple ount in looks down t and , the D err cunih a upon it from the nor h, on the south y y r nges , Of a c w lesser elev tion but pi turesquely ooded , form the foreground, behind which on the east the lofty Mangerton towers in the a dist nc e . he a a w s a a a T l ke cont ins t elve i l nds , none of them much bove n he a acre in extent . T bright green spect Of the islands is due to Of a t Arbu tus u n edo E w the the presence the rbu us ( ) . ven in inter a Of a are Of a i s and are le ves the rbutus r ch glos y green, they so at a a a a clustered the termin tions of the br nches , th t the w xen h- f w w c a i n ac a s c ﬂes like lo ers , hi h h ng gr eful r ceme , or the ri h - a f u t aw c a O . crimson s r berry like fruit, seem r dled in nest verd re ‘ ’ Pa M Carth s I a — so ca i t ssing on the right y sl nd lled , is a Of the a t the supposed , from h ving been the refuge of one l s of ‘ a h s— and Ea I a the a Of all we see the M C rt y gle sl nd , l rgest , Of D err cun ih R a t a f w s mouth the y y iver, bou mile rom the e tern he a w c a a casca as s end of t l ke , hi h forms be utiful de it descend wa At A I a w we a into the bosom of the ters . rbutus sl nd , hich p ss

a has a w a . It a a on the left, the l ke n rro ed consider bly g in a I a w i t a w widens Opposite St g sl nd , beyond hich n rro s into the a B a Our w beautiful creek Of Newfoundl nd y . course , ho ever , t the to L Ra a t t a 2 lies o right , in the ong nge , river lit le more h n On miles i n length connecting the Upper and Middle Lake . a t we a the t entering it at the n rrowest poin , p ss on lef the ’ promontory called Colman s Eye ; then also on the left the - B a O w c the the Ca Roc . Jolly o t, pposite hi h on right is nnon k — a t i s Man -of-War Ro a Half a mile f r her , on the right, the ck THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 157

a Of a T m ss resembling the hulk vessel , keel uppermost . hen still a a ca B farther re some mini ture islets lled the Four Islets . eyond ’ them to the left TH E E AGLE S NE ST (1700feet) rears its pyramidal a It a c f w s t c he d . is rugged , precipitous li f, in ho e in ersti es the a a st a The a a gr y e gles ill h ve their eyries . b se is toler bly covered w t s an d w t wa a i t i h trees , shrub , under ood , but o rds the upper p rt a t w a few s t at and t is b re , excep ing here tun ed trunks or he h , o her - w sub a a s a s . lo ly lpine pl nts , ﬁnd nouri hment mong the crevice

The youn g birds are carri ed off every year between the 1sth Of J une and h 1 ul hen the are Old enou h e r u h u h hand t e st Of J y, w y g to b b o g t p by t e . The roc ks on whi ch the n ests are built are usuall so stee and dan er us y p g o , hat h an e rea h d onl b ro s f om a t t ey c b c e y y w r bove.

The c an d a a e ho from this the surrounding rocks is rem rk ble, a ca w a A a e ma a a especi lly in lm e ther . bugle c ll w y he r repe ted a a t an d a w a a ne rly dozen imes, ns ered from mount in to mount in, t s an d w t t a a d a some ime loud i hou interv l , n then f inter an d a and a t a a a a a s as f inter, f er sudden p use g in ri ing if from some a s a a dist nt glen, then insen ibly dying w y .

’ — ’ EAC LE S NE ST ECH O. Mr Oroker e . .

. i a A 1 Ori g n l i r.

2. E cho.

. E ho ai n r 8 c f te .

Im r 4. p e fect.

5. B othered.

p ealed .

7 . Rep eat i mp er

f eet. 158 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY

“ At the end of the Long Range is the Meeting of the ” “ Wa w a a ters , hich should r ther be c ll ed the Parting of the Wa s The a ter . stre m to the left skirts round Di ni sh Island into L L a o and at to a ough e n , th the right p sses under the Old Weir B t Muckross M La ridge in o or iddle ke . OLD WE I R B RID GE i s an a a ntiqu ted structure , consisting of two a c s a w r he , underne th hich the water rushes with extract di n ar a t s a The y r pidi y, e peci lly if the river be in ﬂood . bo atmen do nothing but guide the boat as it dashes through under one of

a s) the rche . M M — uckross Torc or dd e Lak . T a , , i l e his l ke contains an area of

680 a . The c a a s are Di n i sh an d Bri ck cres prin ip l isl nd een , which a at L w an d a a sep r e it from the o er l rger l ke . There are three as a w two a s the a p s ges bet een these l ke , one round e stern side of

Bri ckeen a w Bri ckeen and D i n i sh Is a s and a , nother bet een l nd , L Ra to w t a third by the ong nge the es side of the l tter . D i ni sh I slan d w c a w w a , hi h is lso ell ooded , cont ins abo ut 3 4 a . On t a at tta t b L cres it here is ne co ge, kindly kep up y ord Ardilaun c c , the proprietor, for the onvenien e and comfort of w tea ma had visitors, here y be if desired , being about the a a usual time of rriv l . B ri ckeen I sland a a t 19 ac and cont ins bou res , is well w It a a s a M ckross ooded . seems continu tion of the penin ul of u , f a s a s a at i t rom which a n rrow tre m ep r es . Of the a T La c has e w tt t at be uty of orc ke mu h b en ri en, but h i s to s a U a c c it inferior the m ller, or pper, is gener lly on eded . Ma the L w La a it all all t th ny prefer o er ke, t ke in , to ei her of e - t o t . T ac a I ri sh Sketch book a sw to w o hers h ker y, in the , in n er “ a a a t T La the question, Wh t is to be s id bou orc ke replies , When there we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large a w i t n ot - tha i z e w we ca l ke, of hich is one fourth e then hen me ‘ ’ a we a N o a a the st a and b ck , s id , , the l rge l ke is mo be utiful ; at t we at we t at a so , every poin stopped , de ermined th th t

a t c la s t was t st w a . The act i s p r i u r po the pret ie in the hole l ke f , ’ an d I a own it t are too a . As a man don t c re to , hey h ndsome for ‘ hi s s L an d D n an d s the coming from de k in ondon ubli , eeing ’ a s a da i s an ass hi s a a c whole l ke in y , he for p ins hild doing sums in addition might as well read the whole multiplication

a and a c had b art . t ble , f n y he it y he

h eane r the Lower Lake has an a a a t 5000 Loug L , o , re of bou

160 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY

w w and a clothed ith ood, the h unt of the red deer , n ow scarce even i n S a and all but t E a - cotl nd , extinc in ngl nd . Stag hunts used to n a a and a be of freque t occurrence mong the l kes, m ny a good fat has s a and a I c s n ow w buck been l in e ten by the rish hief , ho ever , i t c o a a a a wa an is ust m ry to c pture the nim l in the ter, d afterward s a a F Mr llow it to esc pe . rom . Weld we extract a few notes relative to this sport .

On the da recedi n the hunt th se re arati ons ar y p g , o p p e made whi ch are th u ht es al la ed to en sure a ha i s An o g b t c cu t ppy s ue. exp eri en ced p erson is sent u the mountai n o search for the herd and watch i s mo i p t , t t ons in pati en t si len ce till night comes on . The deer whi ch remain s aloof from the herd is ’ sel d f n da s rt d u i ecte or the ext s po . The eer, on be n roused en erall y p g , g y endeavours to ai n the summit of the mou ntain that he ma the m r g , y o e readily ma e his esca e across the o en heath to some di stant retreat k p p . To preven t this numbers of p eo le are stati oned at i n tervals alo ng the hei hts who b , p g , y l ud h u i rrif the animal and dri ve him owards h o s o t ng te y t t e lake. I w as on e r ifi d b s ei n a deer run for n earl a mil e alon he sh c g at e y e g y g t ore, with the ll r n ndi n im hounds pursuing him i n fu c y . O fi g h self closely p ressed he leaped boldly from a rock into the lake an d swam towards on e of the islands ; r h f he a s h r but, terrified b the a oac o t bo t , e eturn ed an d once more y pp , s u ht f r safet on the mai n shore. S oon afterwards in a des era ff o g o y , p te e ort en wo roc s hi s ren h fail to l ea across a chasm betwe t k , st t ed him and he fell p g , m i n exhausted to the bottom. It was ost interest g to behold the numerous s ectat rs who hasten ed to the s ot. Ladi es entlemen easants hun ters p o p , g , p , , combined i n vari ous groups around the noble vi ctim as he lay extended in h the depth of t e forest . w Rare ferns are found in the ood . c s a we a two Pursuing our our e on the l ke , p ss one or little islets “ ” wa to Sw t Inni sfallen but t an d rocks on our y ee , if ime permits , it would be well to keep the course of the shore to

’ ’ S D E La a ba at e O SU LL IVAN S CA CA . nding in little y th foot o f Tomi es and w a a wa the t c the , follo ing rugged p th y through hi k e a the as wa w forest , w he r from time to time d hing of the ter do n a we at ast ac wa a its precipitous ch nnel, until l re h the terf ll . “ ” he a a a W t c t t d c a T c sc de , s ys righ , onsis s of hree istin t st ges a a a a 20 the uppermost, p ssing over ridge of rock , f lls bout feet a at a a at t a perpendicularly into n ur l b sin bene h , hen m king its a w two a a t w a w y bet een h nging rocks , the torrent h s ens do n a s a ac w s second precipice , into imil r recept le , from hich econd c a w t w st depository, con e led from the vie , it rolls over in o the lo e a a a c a chamber of the f ll . Bene th projecting ro k , overh nging

a a w a at . the lowest b sin , is grotto, ith se rudely cut in the rock From this little grotto the view of the cascade is peculiarly THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 161

It a a a c t beautiful and interesting . ppe rs on inued ﬂight of three a s The c s c as b unequally elevated fo my storey . re es is en omp sed y s and s a w b an a a as rock , over h do ed y rch of foli ge so thick to ” interrupt the admission of light .

L E S LAN D a a -wa tw a t an d INN I SF A L N I , bout h lf y be een the e s s the a i s t st acc t the we st shore of l ke , in ere ing on oun of the a c a c w t the c a historic l ass o i tions conne ted i h it , h rm thrown M an d a i ts around it by the poetry of oore, more especi lly for a Of all a s a the t own exceeding be uty . isl nd it is perh ps mos delightful .

The i sland app ears from the lake or the adj oining shore to be densely i s co ered wi th ma n i ficent timber and antic evergreen , but u on landin v g g g p g, the i nteri or of the i sland will be found to afford a vari ety of scenery well — if lades an lawn s em lli shed hi worthy of a visit beaut ul g d , be by t ckets of flowerin shrubs and ever reen s amon st whi ch the arbu tus and holli es are g g , g d eau Man of h im r r cons i cu ous for their si z e an b ty . y t e t be t ees are oaks p , out the greater number are magnificent old ash trees of remarkable magni tude and luxurian ce of growth.

he Abbe w are a a - a T y, hose ruins ne r the l nding pl ce , is believed

' a a 650 b St; F a w to h ve been founded bout y ini n, to hom the at a A hadoe as ca In a a e t o c hedr l of g w dedi ted . the e st end r w a c w ws w c w t a a c re l n et indo , hi h , i h this g ble , h ve been re ently “ ” A l t awa a ma s stored . i tle y to the right is the sm ll Ro ne que - c sta b . The a West doorwa hurch nding y itself round he ded y, w a s w - a s i s a c t c a ith rem in of ell c rved moulding , , r hi e tur lly, the st s a and ma a a as far as be thing on the i l nd , y d te b ck the 11th c entury . c t an d i s a w Quiet, inno en , tender th t lovely spot, rote the T ac a a 1842 delighted h ker y fter his visit in . In this abbey the celebrated An n a ls of I n n i sfallen were com s The w c ta s c a s the Old Te a t a po ed . ork on in s r p from st men , c t n ot b an a s a a a ompendious , hough y y , me n v lu ble , univers l

t w St . Pa r c w a c his ory do n to the period of t i k , ith more perfe t continuation of Irish history to the beginning of the 14th century .

The MS wri n r a h 2 ' u i n w r , tte pe h ps i n t e 1 th cent ry , s o p eserved i n the Bodleian Li rar a f h r s m b y . The publi c ti on o t e wo k ha been atte pted at ari ous times but a com lete translati on has n ot et issued fro m the ress v , p y p . The An s r r n n i sf n w i h a nal eco d that i n 1 180, the abbe of I alle , h c h d at , y that time all the gold an d silver and ri chest goods o f the who le country de osited in l d r d Mild i p it, as the place of greatest sec uri ty , was p un e e by w n, I I 162 THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY

’ son of Dani el O D ono hue as was also the church o f Ardfert and n g , , ma y ‘ ersons were slai n in the er cemeter b the M ar h p v y y y O t ys. We take leave ’ o f the Island wi th Mo ore s lin es

“ Sweet Inni sfall en l n shall d , o g well ’ I n memo r s dream th s un n sm y at y ile, ’ Whi ch o er thee on that eveni n g fell ” When ﬁrs I saw f i l t thy airy s e.

On the way from In n i sfallen to Ross Island y ou pass Mouse I an an d w at ma ta a t sl d, in good e her y ob in brief glimpse of he ” K Pa u t the t w R ss Ca t erry ps j s over ivied o er of o s le . Ross ISLAN D (admission included in the ticket issued H an d W st Pa s s t at the a for the ome e ern rk ) , i u ed on e stern s a sul a at wa i hore , is properly penin , though high ter it s difficult to reach it from the shore without having recourse to

. It i s w a t and s c w t wa n o the bridge ell pl n ed inter e ted i h lks , t n as f On s ow so well kept ormerly . the outhern point we a c - 1804 b C H a a r come upon opper mine opened in y olonel ll , f the

S . C H a . The s t was a a c s of . ll po i ion very unf vour ble , being lo e a a bu t w t s a t s the a to the m rgin of the l ke not i h t nding hi , l bour proceeded an d was rewarded for a time by an abundance of rich “ C C a at a a ore . rofton roker sserts th during the four ye rs th t was w a w was Ross mine orked , ne rly orth of ore disposed "

at Swa a ca s £40 . of nse , some rgoe producing per ton The a t at s t h the s a and old sh f the ou point of i l nd , close to s n ow b a the hore , is ﬁlled y blue pool of forbidding depth . There can be no doubt that these mines have been worked at an a w t b D a n ot it i s diﬁi cult to e rly period , he her y the nes or ’ sa C H a s s a a y . olonel ll s miner found ever l rude stone h mmers a a a a s of re of very e rly m ke , besides other unequivoc l proof p a of s occup tion the mine . oss ASTLE n ow s and c a w a c R C , in ruin l d ith ivy, is pi turesque

c s s a and a t i s a c on obje t from ome position on the l ke , ne r it here n en t a - ac F the s m t ta a t ve i l nding pl e . rom u mi is ob ined mos t w A s b t c s the H an d deligh ful vie . dmis ion y i ket i sued for ome t Pa a t are ct t The cas Wes ern rks ; gr tui ies stri ly prohibi ed . tle ’ n h es In 16 2 it out a a was built by one of the O D o og u . 5 held g inst h M E s an d was t e a t . On the the ngli h , l s in unster to surrender 26th L M s had at the C t C July, ord u kerry been defe ed in oun y ork, an d a hi s w s s a a n w was a K Chi ta m ny of follo er l in , mo g hom erry ef in , a i llicudd who a c as R t a t n M cg y , held ommission colonel . e re i g R a a a ea e atta to oss C stle, he held out g inst the rep t d cks of

164 ASCENT OF MANGERTON sion of by a hermit of the name of John Drake about a hundred a a o who a ye rs g , lived here for eleven ye rs . s n Muckros Abbe Mansi o , El za a was y in the i beth n style, built M a r B L . F a from design by . urn of ondon rom v rious points in w the are ta the demesne good vie s of surrounding scenery ob ined . F the a 18 60 wh C a K w t a ad rom ye r , en h rles ingsley ro e th t he h ob ’ tai n ed Mr H at Muckross w c permission to try . erbert s ﬁshing , hi h sa I a w 1899 t they y is the best in rel nd , do n to the summer of , his ta a the In N the a es te rem ined in Herbert family . ovember of s me a as c a b Ba Ardilaun L ye r it w pur h sed y ron , elder brother of ord The - Iv a h n d i r . a a t e a S B a L . G g , son of enj min uinness l rge he r ed B a a we a t e liberality of the family is well known . y good ro d m ke h circuit of the domain an d the Islands Ericks en an d Din i sh an d join

read a a T C ta . In wa e the high , bout mile from orc ot ge hidden t ry a n w a an d nooks mo g these oods, covered by shrubs, l rge ferns , moss, grow isolated patches of that botanical treasure the Trichomanes s o u m H m no h llu Tu n bri d ense eci s . Its at e m p mini ure, the y p y g , grows in vast luxuriance on every rock moistened by the spray of a at a f ll c t a s w erf ll or the trickling o a but imper ep ible stre m .

Torc Cascade is about 11 mile to the south of Muckross The V s a a al a a Abbey . i itor is dmitted by sm l g te on p yment of a wa a a a w a c the 9d. The gr vel lk le ds up v lley lined ith l r h on an d c oak a and albutu s t one side , holly , bir h , , lder on the o her ; w s a a an d the a s an d s a rough ooden e t is g ined , f mou de ervedly a a s s the w popular view of the c sc de bur ts uddenly upon vie . To the left a circuitous footpath leads to a spot from whence a w M and L w L a s w i s obtained vie of the iddle o er ke , ith the a w a a peculiar peninsul of wooded rock hich sep r tes them .

THE ASCENT OF MANGERTON.

2756 feet .

s Killarne Stati on A car carri es the Muckross to summit, 5 mile ; y , i n here ni s can be i n for touri st to the foot of the mounta s, w p o e obta ed i the j ourn ey to the summ t .

The w are a an c w c vie s very fine, embr cing extent of s enery hi h F Muckross we gradually expands as we ascend . our miles from ’ N ea the w a the come to the Devil s Punch Bowl . r lo er b nk of B w n ot far the a c at a Punch o l , from s ending p h , there is fine echo ; in fair weather a magnificent view i s got on reaching the s who a w a t u ummit . Those do not c re for such vie s , or c nno end re ASCENT OF THE REEKS 165

a ma a c a as far as Drumrourk H f tigue , y s end the ro d ill , behind u kr ss t w ws a a c an d a a the M c o Ho el , here vie of rom nti gree ble a character may be obtained without f tigue . Ma w a . w It is usual to return by the s me route ny , ho ever , ill prefer to turn o ff (under the direction of a guide) to Glen a co a l the G H tw Ma t pp , or len of the orse , lying be een nger on a and Stoomp .

a a an a c Lough Guitane is good l ke for ngler, but the s enery a a and has w round it is dre ry, nothing in common ith the a a Ki ll rney l kes .

ASCENT OF THE REEKS .

3 414 feet.

The distance from Killarney to the s ummit of Carntual or a ll a - 1 e C rran tu ohi the inverted re ping hook is 5 miles . Th ascent is steep an d generally made from the Owenaculli n River - a For u c valley on the north e st side . this ro te pro eed from Killarney as if for D unlos Gap and about i mile after crossing B a B t B a a and ac s e ufort ridge urn (right) by the rr cks , so up ros a l i n a a S a u i te ear the Owen cu l river to the G dd gh . t rt q ly and a da If a choose ﬁne y . inexperienced , be not too proud to t ke a guide (see page ma a E A c 4 an E . S . good des ent y be m de ( miles) in . direction , o the Gearhameen D unloe a Ga t end of the ro d just south of the p .

FROM KILLARNEY TO A E W E EX CURSION V L NTIA, AT R

VILLE AND PARKNASILLA.

The excursion round the Waterville promontory has been 1 “ well called by an enthusiastic cyclist the ﬁnest circular run in ’ a an d s the t s s t K a Irel nd , hould ouri t ime in ill rney be limited we s a s s c the da a hould dvi e him to e ure ﬁrst good y , fter doing the La s t c The ke here , for this splendid bit of the ountry . pro t i s a 40 s n b 1 8 w the a a an d mon ory bout mile lo g y ide on ver ge, c c t at s t s a t ta c on en r e into ho e limits more be u y of moun in , lo h , and c a t t a an s a ac I a o s h n y imil r sp e in rel nd .

r w s f n h r i n The e are several ay o doi g t e excu s o , the pri ncipal being Killarne o Carra h a e ahi r i en a d Val n i a ai y t g L k , C c ve n e t by tr n , and to Water

1 Mr M r d in hi s Road B l rn . ec e y ook of I re and (southe part) . 166 VALENTIA ISLAND ville b road ne t da to Sn eem Pa y ; x y , rknasilla and Kenmare b road , y ; (2) by Glencar to Cara h L a e ac to Gl g k ; b k en car an d on by B allaughasheen Pass to Water ill v e ; Watervi lle to Killarne b Sn eem an d Gerah C ross wa y y y s . The coast scen ery etween Cahirci veen an d Sneem i s all ver d b y goo .

Ta en ire round c a 1 a king the t by the o st (see ( ) bove) , those who do not cycle to Caragh Lake by Glen car (27 miles) will prob a a wa bly use the r il y through Farranfore Junction an d Killera to Caragh Lake 29 s H otel : The S t t as a ( mile ; ou hern, firs cl s , bout sta T i mile from tion) . his beautifully shaped lough li es in a t a w w w deligh ful v lley , ell ooded , bet een the Reeks an d the head D B a of ingle y . It i s a good centre for exploring the Reeks an d the Waterville “ promontory . The salmon an d trout fishing on the lake are t a an d t a c quite firs r te , here is golf ourse . F rom Caragh Lake the rails pass under the north foot of Seefin 1 21 a ( 6 ft . nd ac G en ei h 3 3 s com ortable H otel e ) re h l b g ( mile ; f ) . W s a V w w D B a and oon get fine ie do n ingle y , beyond Mou n tai n S ta e a as a g st tion, the tr in curves slowly round the precipitous are s a s a a s all slopes , there ome gr nd bit th t p s too quickly . N c B a H r Kells B a oti e r ndon ill ove y .

Cahirciveen 2013 c -i r- i v n (pop . ; pronoun ed t s ee 47 miles ’ H otel : L a c a t a c eslie s, good) is good entre for the V len i s enery . ’ The a i n i build s a . O on M R. 0 C n ell princip l g the l rge emorial Church .

’ E xcursions start from L esli e s H otel for B allycarbery Castle and places on Din le B a Valentia I sland th Skelli Ro nd a g y , , e g cks, a W terville. Ful l detail s of these can b e o i n ed h r bta by writi ng to t e hotel propri eto .

Valen ti a Island can be reached from Cahirci veen by boat (about 3 miles) ; or road (31 miles) ; or rail to Harbour station and thence by ferry ; or by road to Portmagee (92 miles) an d t b hence y ferry .

A od hotel r n l nlar e stand faci n he ferr an d go , ece t y e g d, s g t y (6d . ) close to ’ h i Mr. O N eill whos famil ha h ld h fe ntra c fo t e p er. , e y s e t e rry co t r con ve in the mails for o er 100 ears will i ve a11~ i n formati on duri n the ri ef y g v y , g g b r ssin Not far off i s a i n f he An lo-Ameri n ele ra h m an c o g. stat o o t g ca T g p Co p y , r s en i i - to whi ch , up on p rodu cti on of an order o pre tat on of a vi s ting card , h n s the vi sitor can be admitted duri ng t e mor i ng . a ri n r i an aro w s There i s great va ety of sce e y n d und Val entia, in hich i i a ed lan eam the residence of ir Mauri ce Fitz erald Kni ht f Ke s tu t G l , S g , g o rry “ (a descen dant of the Black about 2 mi les from the Ro yal fﬁ The rounds f Glan leam contain me rare shru s Hotel and Post O ce. g o so b

168 PARKNASILLA

“ ropp con siders it one of the most p erfect and i nterestin g oakers of our i sland but the meani n of the name Stai ue an d e n h g g , ve t e purpose of its uilder ar rs f is u i “ b s e matte o d p te. Its un que feature i s that the walls are ” di vided i nto ten a s b i hts of ste s cr ssin each other li e an X b y y ﬂ g p o g k .

Val ti a i s 12 miles di stant Skelll s 16 miles C ahirci v ta i en ; g , ; een S t on , 12 mil es B allau hasheen Pass 14 miles Coomaki sta 3 mil ; g , § ; , es ; Derry na 7 miles S neem 23 miles Parknasilla 25 miles Kenmare 3 8 mil ne , , ; , } ; , § es ; illa i K rney , 60m les .

From Waterville southwards there is a ﬁne road for cyclists t a c c T hrough m gniﬁ ent s enery . his asc ends in 3 miles to the ‘ Coomaki sta w a shoulder of , here the gr ndeur of the view i s a indescrib ble .

su er anorama here of sea and coas com l i h i la s f A p b p t, p ex w t s nd o all shapes and si z es from Scariff and D eeni sh on the ri h he d m f , , g t, to t i crags o ll h d th im r lf a h f r the B u , t e Cow, an e d me Ca t t e a en d of the Mi ski sh Moun “ n f r awa h un ui ri h lan i tai ns, a d a y t e q et b g t At t c S ea.

About 1 ; mile further a lade ri ht l eads to D err nan e House the 5 , g ( g ) y , ’ an stral hom of th e Li erator o nn ll rmi s h n ce e b O C e . P e si on to see t e hou se a d ’ the Con n ell reli cs i s someti mes ran t d H alf a O g e . mil e beyon d i s Mrs . ’ i harmi n li l h f i rl r Keat ng s c g tt e otel, a y cove ed with fuchsia an d ﬂoweri ng ’ n av n h i n -l shrubs. L ord D u r e s s oot g odge i s near ; an d on the shore of the a h r n f r a A fo n d i n h 6 t b y t e ui s o Der yn ne bbey, u de t e th cen ury .

he a a a t at Caherdan i el 4 T m in ro d is rejoined fter de our , 5miles oo k astle Core A from C ma i sta an d 4 miles short of C . rough L a 2 a S tai ue F . ro d of miles , on the left, le ds up to g ort (p At 23 frem— Waterv1lle e ac i nn Pa s miles w re h Sneem ( ) . s ing the d c K a a t c a a ac 2 a t ire t ill rney ro d (lef ) the o st ro d re hes , miles f r her ! the a to a the S H t on , entr nce the be utiful grounds of outhern o el

at Parknasilla.

n wn Killarn It i s indeed wonderful that thi s place i s not more wi dely k o . ey

rl fam ar n illa in man wa s re attracti ve. It is onl i s wo d ous, but P k as i s y y mo y 15 miles b r ad from Kenmare whi ch suffices to ee it select wi thou t y o , k p , s he n f l an eo le have s ren deri ng it i naccessi ble. Is i t ki d o p ace m y p p p ent i n f he c s urs an d i slets are o ften well clothed thei r l ves searchi g or. T ro ky p u fu chsia hododen dron azalea and with thi ckl r wi n firs holl , arb tus, , r , , y g o g , y the plants whi ch tell of a mild fresh ai r ; while the glori es of gorse and heather form a magn ificent foregrou nd to the stretches of blue sea an d the i i h an l ur hill s an d headlands that show an i nfin te play of l g ts d co o s. Arti sts s d F re r i n h nni s would delight i n the vi ews on every i e. or c eat o t ere are te and cro u et rounds charmin wal s and endless n o s sea fishin an d q g , g k o k , g ’ n n d th n l r nd w hin a f i n wa f boati g, a ba i g p aces i n the g ou s it ew m u tes lk rom

hotel . Thi s has een uilt n ear the earli er h tel whi ch was ou ht b the b b o , b g y h om an from D r ra es Bi sho of Limeri c who used it as a summer t e C p y . G v , p k , FROM KILLARNEY TO D INGLE 169

The hotel i s ﬁrst-class and thorou hl c omforta le as well two palace. , g y b , D ail coache un th wa s to and fr m s . s r om thi ngs not always synony ou y bo y ,

Waterville (25 miles) and Kenmare (15 miles) .

are as w a a a wa There , is sho n bove, ltern tive ys of getting to a kn asilla Killarney from P r .

EXCURSION FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE

PROMONTORY .

Take the train to Tralee (22 miles H otels : Imperial Central ; t e D omi ni ca n chu rch i s the best bui ldi n and c a h g), there , h ngingover to the D Ra wa Ca t 16 ingle il y, book to s legregory, miles (or , if no s it a Ca c 6 . T tr in , to stlegregory Jun tion , mile short of ) hence it is a wild an d interesting road of 16 miles over Connor Pass to T ta a a Dingle . his should cer inly be preferred to the ppro ch to

D b the a w can . ingle y r il , hich be used on your return At Ca Ca an Mrs stlegregory Junction or mp there is inn ( . ’ C a s and a t 1 off a is Kil obbin re n ) ; bou g mile , on the co st, g , w t c a - I a ith the mos negle ted buri l ground in rel nd . There is some fishing in the central loughs that is little known at ’ ’ . Ca e r 16 H otels : O Con n o present stlegr go y ( miles ; T. r s ’ a Mrs S a La -fish (sm ll) . pill ne s) . ke ing here and at Aun ascaul ; -fishi n at Au hacasla Ca an d Aunascaul At Strad river g g , mp, . bally (2§ miles) is the last inn ; at Ki lcwmmi n (4smiles) the scenery a T begins with the foli ge . his delightful little bit of Brandon Bay da d a a T may some y be uly ppreci ted . hen at Ki lmore the climb

8 . Connor Pass 13 00 begins ( miles) ( feet) is very ﬁne, and well

a . C w fa rep ys the toil yclists ill ﬁnd the sur ce good . After 3 or l 4 mi es of descent,

’ ’ Di e e . 1786 H otels : L B ngl (p p ; ee s ; enner s) is reached . It i s an a w old h rbour to n , built on a steep hill rising from D Ba It ingle y . is the best centre for the wild western scenery s c of thi promontory, mu h of which is good and the neighbour hood abounds in romantic remains and ruins of great antiquarian s Fo intere t . r the remarkable geological character of this district

H Ph s . Geol. and Geo see ull , y g. of I . p . 3 3 . Ta h ke t e ﬁrst opportunity of seeing Slea Head and Co nni e no ole (1 1 mi w t a c as af les) , i h the gr nd bits of o t scenery they ford . A 4 bout miles beyond t r y (4 miles) are the ancient forts of

t Fahd /n a the ci y of , most rem arkable settlement of early 17 0 FROM KILLARNEY TO D INGLE

dr an d J ou r l y stone forts beehive cells (see na ,

The Blasket Islan ds are to Din le what the Skelli s are to a ervi g g W t lle. I ni shtuska/rt to th n h f - , e ort o them an d marked b its queer co xcomb ro ck y , ’ con tain s on e of St. B ren dan s oratori es but n either this nor the church on the Great Blasket have een et full b y y explored . The excu rsio n to Smerwi ck Harbour (iii mil es) i s of quite excepti onal interest to the searcher after early Chri stian remain s and i s ro babl the , p y ’ chi f s en f m n i e c e o the ro a t . r d c St B en an s labours . At about s mil es i s s een i , u st elow on he left he whi 1 j b t , t te ston e roof of the O ato of Gall erus r ry , li e an - u n d a k up t r e bo t . Thi s, as a s ecimen of dr ru bble masonr p y y , “ ” “ e cels sa s Mr. Romill All en an hin i n x , y y , t o f ts ki d . The door wi th y g , hin es i s at the west en d an d o osite the east wi ndow whi ch has a semi g , pp , , ir ular head All the i n eri or fa es f he n s r c c . t c o t sto e a e cut to shape ; an d above the east wi n dow are three e s used erha s for lam s or book p g , p p p

satchels. It ma be of date earli er than h h n tur y t e 7t ce y . “ The di stri ct i s strewn broadcast wi th a bewildering profusion of anti

uiti es . H itchcoc n otes 21 chu rches 12 lar e ston e cros es 15 ora ri q k , g s , to es, ll ” 2 76 holy we s . - About amile north west of C all erus oratory i s a cas tle ; an d 1 mil e due no h after assin left the stone forts an d cell s of aher r h rt , p g ( ) C do gan , t e road ma es an an le at Ki lmalkeda whi ch teems wi th anci ent r ma n e i s. k g r, (Tea at schoolhouse. ) la m ha ha som on nec i on wi h e ce see s to ve d e c t t St. B ren dan 1 Th p (p . 71) an d the present 12th-century church stan ds on the on e fou n ded by Mael cethai r o f ro al blood before 63 3 The resen t choir of the , y , p “ " m h laced an older an d narrow n church see s to ave rep er o e. The feature i ra r ser h i s the in ner arcad ng of very unusual cha cte . Ob ve t e west door ; the ’ east win dow locall th e fat man s win dow the fon t ; the Y-sha ed finial , y p “ f m he a l e an d the ih-cen tu r al habet stone in he chur h ard ro t g b ; 7 y p ! t c y . J ust to the south i s an an ci ent en closure c overed by fu chsi as ; i n an adj oi n “ ’ i ng pi g-stye i s an early cell ; n ear the school i s the 15th cen tury (7) B ran don s ” d f ur lds a a n orth- est i s an orator with a n H ou se an o fie w w , y , sto e altar. ; y , A mile to the west i s Sm rwi ck Ha bou with i ts n o le S bi l Head e r r , b y ‘ clifis an d its memori es of F robi sher o f Raleigh an d o f Amyas L ei h kee in , g p g “ ” a h h out estward H o s here hi s Chri stmas D y on t e wild s ore W , wi th hi ’ ma ddin A out 6 mil es in plums for the Sp an iards Chri st s pu g. b the a o Hill 3 12 feet ro osite directi on i s the ran d e f B andon, 7 c wn ed opp g p k r ( ) , “ ” “ ” “ li tle ra whi ch mar s sa s tradi ti on the l with the rude t o tory , k , y , p ace d m d i ” 4 where B ran don sp en t long y ears of pray er an e itat on .

1 den i s ro a l The name accordi n to Rev. T. Ol p b b y , g - ” “ — m hur h . H e ar s and d a Geal aru s, the white house t . e. a c c co p e C i case , - n lw wh M kedar was educated . H as Collorus o Whit hem e (o S o ay) , ere el n Ken mare ri ver any con n ec ti on ? 2 S ee i nteresti ng an d illustrated descripti on of Gall erus an d Kilmalkedar

e tro i n J ou rnal 1898 . by W s pp , - 3 l n ll the n ame Noel celthai r foll ower of Celtchai r. Rev. T. O de spe s , 4 M o s m ares the similar cel ls on Slieve D onard Westropp . iss St ke co p , i ulli Sli eve Leagu e, an d Sl eve G on .

FROM KILLARNEY TO DINGLE 17 1

St. Br ndan or B randon whose name still li n ers alon all our western e , , g g sh res a ears to have been a n ative of F enit an d to have been buri ed i n o , pp ,

' h i - i n hi s o wn church her 676 at Clonfert at t e age of n n ety three t e. The story 1 of his di scovery of Am eri ca i s difﬁcul t to believe ; but that he sailed “ h m d f some m re sunn l m muc among the western i sles and drea e o o y c i e, ” d h h raditi on Ki n sl be on t e waste of waters seems trustwort t . e weaves y , y g y ' “ h sai n t s r i n hi s Wa - a i s and tells how he reached o h t e sto y to ter B b e , p t t e h r w a wi ld Iri sh he an e o her hermits ill t e we e e r . 0 , d ﬁv t , t y y 8 St. Bran don went out to the p oi nt of Old D unmore an d l ooked an d far away before the s ettin sun he saw a blu e fair sea an d golden fair i sl ands g y y , ’ h n an d he said These are the i slan ds of the blest. Th en e a d hi s fri ends ot , g i n a n n to hooker a d sailed away an d away to westward, a d were n ever heard ” ’ f n n a s m a o more. The lege d of B re d n eeting wi th J ud s I scariot u pon an “ ” iceberg in the n orthern main may be found i n a p oem by Matthew ’ ’ ld u - Arno . (F or other acco nts see J ow mal, 1 890 92 also C H anlon s ’

o a Ma h m. We f B . n d D . Fl orence ccart y s poe )

From Dingle the somewhat rickety railway to Castlegregory c ma a 22 Jun tion y be t ken ( miles) .

’ 1 See aes ar O w s rs C t ay ve ion.

I ND E X

m r an Num ers of a es on The ﬁrst of several references i s the most i po t t. b p g h left refer to t e maps .

r Ma si niﬁ ene al . gen . g es G p

Blasket I slands 170 Adrigole, 145 ,

A hada 11 5 112 B ook of D imma, 95 g , , hado e 152 Li smore 126 Ag , , B ran don H ill 1 70 All en , H ill of, 93 ,

n B ren dan St . Alphabet sto e, 170 , , Aran I sl es 1 67 E ri cksen I sland 1 58 , , B ri stol 121 Arbutu s 1 56 147 , , , B un ane 146 Ardmore, 1 21 , 1 1 B utlers the 185 Arn old , Matthew, 7 , , l B uttevan t 101 Athasse , 127 , h 3 At y , 13 r Alfred 14 Caha Mountai n s 145 Au stin , M . , 7 ,

Caher, 1 27 4 Cah erdan i el 168 alli ncollig, 1 8 , alli n s ell i s B a 1 6 Caherdor an 1 0 B k g y , 7 g , 7 ll h 5 ahi rci veen 166 165 B a ybro p y , 9 C , , l a le 1 am 1 69 B a ly carbery C st , 66 C p , a ar I sl n d 14 B all deho b 141 C p e Cle a , 1 y , 3 a o u i n 1 24 B allyli ckey , 14 C pp q , altimor 141 Cara h L a e 166 165 B e, g k , , arlow 1 3 3 B an don , 140 C , B an 142 Carran tu ohil 165 155 try , , , arri ck on S ui r 1 30 B ay , 143 G , lalaw Cashel 98 96 B ea , 168 , , lan a ar 14 astl e omer 1 3 ea ge y , 9 C c , 7 B eau fort B ri d e 153 1 5 astl e re or 169 g , , 6 C g g y , B en edi in es 1 00 J un ction 1 69 ct , , B er I f 4 C astlemart r 12 e, slan d o , 1 2 y , 0 er ha 4 a tle Mar e ven , 143 , 1 5 C s y , 116 erkel e B l ri d e 92 y p . 116 13 6 C e b , , , , g ian coni 1 3 han n el Fleet 42 45 , 0 C , 1 , 1 B lac H u h 4 haracteri s i s Mun ster k g , 9 C t c ( ) , Blac V all h k ey , t e, 154 1 10 B lac ro c Cas l e 1 h oi n 13 2 k k t , 1 3 C eekp t, Blac water B ri d i s er ian s 98 112 132 k ge (Kerry) , 168 C t c , , , River F22 1 2 Clon dal i n 92 , , 0 , 1 20, k , 12 6 lon mel , 129 Blarn e Castle 1 1 n 11 y , 7 Cloy e, 6 La e 1 19 lman t . 116 k , Co , S , 174 INDEX

Con re e 135 Gl ena B a 15 g v , y , 9 Con n or Pass 1 l n a , 69 G e coppal, 165 Coomaki sta 168 l i , G en be gh, 166 Coomdhuv 155 Glen ro o , b k , 113 112 , Coumen ool e 1 9 l n r , 6 G e ca , 168 ‘ or 103 l C k, G engariﬁe, 144, 145 Count of 101 l e y , Go e n , 1 41 , 1 43 ’ E xcursion s from 115 Goold s Cro ss 98 1 00 , , , ar our H b , 112 Gou an ebarra 1 49 g , Ma or of 115 Grea I slan d 112 114 y , t , , acht Clu 1 Y b, 1 3 Great Newtown H ead 132 , ’ orma M ‘ a h c C rt y 3 Chapel , Coron ati on stone 116 ll 1 2 , H a , 8 . C . , 6 ro er Crof n ul o l C k , to , H a b w in e, 114 Cromwell 121 13 4 1 5 H az elhatc h 92 , , , 3 , oo haven 1 42 er ar he Cr k , H ew d t Wake, 13 1 Cross of Con 125 H o an 109 1 10 13 4 g, g , , , osshaven 1 14 l o Cr , H o y Cr ss Abbe 96 y , s d Cros tery B ri ge, 145 H ere Abbe 100 y , ' r 1 Crozi e s , 99, 25 h len Vall ilw Currag , 93 I ey Ra ay, 141 n I chigeelah , 149 ourc 1 In chi ui n L ore 11 e C y , 39 q , 6 D err cun ih Falls Ini shto okert 170 y y , 156 , n n Annal f D erry an e, 168 Inni s falle , s o , 161 i I land D erryqu n , 168 s , 161 ’ s B i M un ai ns 9 Inn i shann on 14 D evil t o t , 6 , 0

P un ch B owl , 164

Di n le 169 J er oint Abbey , 137 g , p

a J hnson D r. 1 1 B y, 166 o , , 7

Di n i sh I sland , 1 58 ’ i Kate Kearn e s o ta e 1 D onera le, 102 y C t g , 53 Keiman ei h 149 D rake, 1 15 g , rim lea u 140 142 Kell s 13 8 D o g e, , , 2 Kells B a Kerr 1 D romana Castle, 1 3 y ( y ) , 66 - - Kenmare 146 D un a mai se, 94 , H ou se 151 D unbo y , 145 , 2 Lord 151 D un bro dy , 13 , ” Kerr Pa s The 162 D un los Castle, 153 y p , , f 1 3 Kilcolman Castl e 102 Gap o , 5 , 2 Ki lcrea 148 Dunmore, 13 , l Kilcummi n , 3 69 ’ l s Nes 1 Kildare 93 Eag e t, 57 , an 169 Kilgobb , Kil en n 13 4 Fahan , 169 k y , e 1 50 Farran fore J un cti on , 166 Killarn y , L a es of 155 151 F ermoy , 126 k , , r L a e 155 F ethard 100 U e k , , pp Fran ci scans 121 Middle L ake 158 , ,

F reshford 1 37 L o wer Lake, 158 , Routes to 13 8 Frobi sher 170 , , , 4 4 1 6, 1 8 i r Kilmal edar 170 Gaddagh R ve , 165 k , all 1 1 Galleru s 1 70 Kilm o ck , 0 , ilmore 169 Gari n i sh Island , 1 68 ,

V lle 149 in sl e Chas . 13 1 132 Garra a y , g y , , , , m n 1 55 1 5 171 Gearha ee , , 153 , 6 1 i n sal e 13 9 Gerah Cross, 68 , 9 H ead of 140 Gill Abbey , 10 , 4 Ki ure 93 Glan dore, 1 1 pp , Kni hts of Kerr 166 Glanleam, 166 g y ,

N 6 INDEX

Tem l em re 96 Ven tr 169 p o , y, hac era V i T k y , 104, 158 ill erstown , 123 h ma to T o s wn , 138 h r e f T u l s , 96 Water ord, 131 , 138 i erar 2 T pp y , 1 7 County , 130 Tore Cascade 1 4 a erville 1 6 , 6 W t , 67, 1 5, 166 La e 8 H k , 15 omontory , l hal es 142 Tra ee, 169 W , a hidd Tr more, 132 W y I sland, 143 Tra i s s 124 Wi n dow Tracer 9 1 pp t , y , 7 , 63 ’ 46 lf Turn er s Rock, 1 Wo e, Rev. Chas , 115

Valentia Island , 166 165 Y u hal 120 , o g ,

' ‘ ' ! C L A RK L I MI T E D P rzm ed 51 R . ,

“2 — — A B E RFE LD Y A B E RF OYL E ARI SA IG .

ABE R E L H F D Y PE RTH S IRE . , WE L EM HOTE , TAY BRIDGE.

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B R I G H T , B R A C I N G , A N D H E A L T H Y .

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MARINE STATION HOTEL, BRAY

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1 6 E D I NB URGH . DI BURGH CAF M A E N E CO P NY, P INC S T T N B 7 O R E S RE E , E D I URG H .

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“ A BE AUTIFUL S OUVENIR OF THE S HA KE SPEARE COUNTRY . - - S T RA T F O R D O N A V O N ,

' L E A M I N G TO N A N D W A R W I C K .

BY D IXON SCOTT. - l W H i i n 1 2 f Ill r i n i n o o ur b F RE D . H TE E D L ar C on tan g un page u s t a t o s C y I A . ge i C o lo u r o n he v u are D em svo B oards with P i c tu re n t C o er. Sq y , , B P ost P r i c e i s . 6 d . n e t . ( y i s . i od . ) Thi s i s ' o n e O f th e m o st i n ex en si ve b oo ks that has eve r n r u ed bri n i n p bee p od c , g g - o a hi h class colowre boolc wi thi n th r h a f r the ﬁrst time g e eac of ll .

P UB L IS H ED B Y A D A M C H A RL E S B L AC 4 5 A N D H U RE LO N D ON W. K , , , 6 S O O S O , A ,

A n d obtai n abl e of all B ooksellers . — LI ME RICK LI V E RPOOL. 29 E I LIM R CK .

- A FA M l Y an d COM M C IA L F IRS T C L s s L E R .

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th ro ug ho u t . Om n i bu s m e e ts a ll t ra i n s an d s t e a m e rs .

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RO Y A L G E O RG E HO T E L .

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‘ lin h d C ar . n e i a ded h l ess. Moderate es A W n w ich i n cudes g w g , 23 B dro ms len did Ban u eti n Ro om an d S o Ro o ms e o t ck . , Sp q g , ’ Sa r n k . ni ta ar an eme s f . o o s u y r g t per ect C Co pon s accepted.

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L MERICK I .

G L E N TW O R TH H O TE L .

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The Gl entw orth i s the l ea d i n g H OTE L i n the city,an d i s noted for its m o d e r a t e e s - i n rf n i ti n T rm , F irst clas s Cu i s e , and P e ect Sa ta o .

‘

Omn i bus an d S taﬁ m eet all Trai n s an d S teamers . KE NNA BROS , P rop ri etors.

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. L I Y E R P O O

”

THE SHAFTESBURY. M O N T P L E A A N T U S .

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RNWALL . LIZARD , CO

H OUS E L B A Y H O TE L .

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' o l r ms to M an a er H an sel Ba H otel i za r L tters an l Te e a L d E . S . . e g g , y , , O

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A N D S PA .

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fr e e f o r H o t e l v i s i t o r s .

mmen n he n ei hbourhoo d F i shi n c o c es i n the Gro u n d s . The on ly p ri vate ﬁ shi n g i t g . g W A D S UP PL IES FRO M O N FA RM N GARD E NS .

i n S e a r a t e T a b l e s . P o s t g. p E x c e l l e n t C u i s i n e i . G o o d S e l e c t i o n C a r r a ge s . S p e c i a l a t t e n t i o n gi v e n t o M o t o r A c c o m m o d a t i o n . d i e t .

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MO D E RATE TARIF F . “ ” m R CK el e hone P . 0 No 2. T le ra s : O . T . . Hotel Omn ibus meets all Trai n s . e g p

' P o . r ietors. om R . P . C U LL E Y 83 C O r Tariﬂfr , p

3 2 LO H AWE — LO H I N V E R— L C C C O H LOMOND .

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P O R T S O N A O H A N H O T E L .

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. , L H A W E O C H O TE L .

" LOCH AWE STATION— CALEDONIAN RAI A ( LW Y. ) AS SEN R LIFT P M ST P GE RO ATION TO HOTEL .

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I l u strated B r ochu r o a li ca i o l e n pp t n . A L M N A N D T R T F H I E N I S O O U IS NG . T N S . “ ” oun ess Of B readal ban e an d Steam L au n c h G ro wl e run n o n n ecti on S S . C t i c . y wi H el D . F RA E R P r i t th o t . S , om e or .

LOCH IN E R SUTH E RLAND SH IRE V , .

‘ SALMON ANGLING ON INVER AND KIRKAIG RIVERS . SEA TROUT.

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Ho t el M o t o r c an me e t p a rt i es at l n v e rs hi n o n d u e n o ti c e be i n g gi v e n . “ Wi res : GU M L OC H IN VE R . S KINN ER P ro ri etor . J . R A , . , p

A R D L U I H O T E L . H EA D OF O L OMON D L CH . ’ r M in u tes l teamboat Pi er an d Ardlu i Stati on West Hi hla n d Rail wa Th ee wa kfrom S , g y . i f i u a d mid u n v n er an d c omman H IS H o tel s beau ti u lly s t te a st ri alled sc e y , ds a T n V h h l d lled an d refurn i s ma n iﬁc e t i ew Of the L o c . T e H ote has been remo e hed g , an d additi o n s have been mad e the san i tar arran emen ts are n ew an d hav e been ; y , g , n he m s im r v ri n i l i i r s i n at thi s hou se wi ll ﬁn carri ed o ut o t o t p o ed p c p es . V s to s tay g d

er o mfo rt an d atten dan c e with boats an d shi n free . D eli htful dail to u rs ev y c , ﬁ g g y

a an d o h a ri n e L ch Awe L c h Ta Lo ch L o n e . Pass en ers can be rr ge to L c K t , o , o y , g, tc g travelli n g S o u th by West H ighlan d Railway chan ge here for L oc h Lomo n d an d L oc h w - i n s M a i ar d w ek e i l eek n d erm ex e t Au u t. Katri n e. P rt es bo de b e . S c a e t s c p g o to r y p , “ ” le r ms o T l Te D n R D L T . r P et ro . a : n e A I D OD D P o ri et M. S or ara e g D . g g . , , p . B — ran d Ci rcu lar Tour b Rail C oach an d Steam r dail from E din bur h N . . G y , , e y g l w F urther arti ulars an btai n ed at Crian lari ch an d Ardlu i H o ls an d G asgo . p c c be O te , ' i h an ia Railwa m an i T uris u ides also from the North B ri t s d Cal edon n y Co p es o t G . — 3 3 LOOB MAB s E aon n ou .

S - E M E O S S HIR N B . LO H ARE R . C , , THE KINLOCHEWE HOTEL

[FULLY situ ated at the Head of this famous Lo ch

sc n r Vi sitors at either thi s or the e e y . Lo chmaree Ho tel have the pri vilege of ﬁshi ng practically the wh l f L h Mares free o e o oc .

MOTO RS FO R H IRE . P O S TING . MO D E RATE TARIF F . ROB E RTS ON P ro ri etor A. , p . n n e e L mere H o tel Ro ss shi re (U der same Ma ag m nt , och s , . T THE LOGHMAREE HO EL, RDSS r n i d H r L te a t u P at o se by e a M j es y Q een Vi ctori a.

EAUTIF UL LY si tuated i n the cen tre o f the Lo ch me res di stri ct an d o verl ooki n B , g me re whi h i s u n su r a ssed for its beaut an d ran d e almo n ea Loc h s , c p y g ur. S , S - Tm u an d u Fi shin free to res iden ts . B oats an d ﬁrs la s me li e t Tro t t c s boat n s u d . , g pp ’ — i l to u hn asheen a ion hen c e d ri ve o r b e s ‘ B s Rou te Ra A c S t t , t ; y M s sr . M rayn e steamers ai rlo ch A ch wi ll await he arr val o f Gai rlo ch steame s o n i w d f r to G . coa t i r be ng i re o .

ial B i n erms . Gara e and P etrol . M tors for hi r P s i Spec oard g t g o e. o ti ng n all i ts branc hes .

me es E Tele rams : H otel L o ch r . AL X . ROB E RTSON P ro ri etor. g , , p n der same Man a emen t KIN L O H E W E TE L (U g , C H O . )

L S W OND ON , . .

IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND TH H RI E E OUSES OF PA L AM NT.

m t C n e n i e n t C e n tre fo r all P a A os o v l c e s o f H i s to ri c In te re s t .

a l th G o e rn m e n t C o lo n i al a n E n C lose to l e v , , d g i n e e ri n g O fﬁc e s .

o mm u o m fo r l e S a i o u R C o di o s , C tab , p c s e c e p ti o n Ro o m s .

M o dera te Tari ff, an d n o c harg e fo r A tten dan c e . - d n d S p e c i al Week en a E n P en s i o n Terms o n Ap p li c a ti o n .

s li s h o r h lf E ta b e d ve a a c en tury .

’ i v e r o o l S re e t Ki n s C ro W L p t , g s s , . C 5 5 . B E D ROOM a n d B REA KFA S T, 4 1 $39, d

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3 6 LONDO N .

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HEAD OFFICE THE OLDEST

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B RANC H ES . — n 60 Chari n C ross . Yorkshire Leed k Lon do , g s , 15 Par Row.

3 3 2 Oxford Street . Hull w , L o gate. — 40 Chan cer L an e. Su b Bra/ri ches . B radford Mark y , et St .

42 Min ci n Lan e . Halifax 1 5 om g , C merci al St. ’ ’ B i n ham 10 B en n ett s H ill . H u dders eld St. Geo r i rm g , ﬁ , ge s Sq . teri es Su b B ran ch 10 P all Mall Shef eld 62 64 F ar a Pot ( ) , , ﬁ , g te. an l e Newcastl e ou T e lli w H . n Co n ood y y , g S treet. ’

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lare treet. Pl outh 59 B edfo rd tre Bri stol , C S ym , S et. ' ds r Pla th m ton H i h e Wi n o c e. S ou a Str et 13 . C ardi ﬂ, p , g

u b B ran ch 7 8 xford Edi nbur h 40 Prin ces Street . Swan sea (S ) , O St . g , - 5 P ri n ces Street. Aberdeen S u b B ran ch 46A Uni on t I wi ch 4 S . ps , ( ) , ha el r Glas ow 42 Ren ﬁeld Street 6 C St eet. . Li verp ool , p g , Dubli n C olle e Green 4 i n 9 . 8 St . Man chester, K g reet , g - a m d B elfast Sub -B ran ch 3 8 Ro s emar ub B r n ch Ri ch on Ter. St . Blackburn (S ) , ( ) , y

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F I R E .

RESULTANT LOSS OF RENT AND PROFITS .

’ ’ IA I ITY and WORKMEN S COMP N EMPLOYERS L B L E SATION, A TO OM STIC S R A including CCIDENTS D E E V NTS .

PERSONAL ACCIDENT. SICKNESS and DISEASE. ARY A FIDELITY GUARANTEE. BURGL . PL TE GLASS .

M O D E R A T E R A T E S . P R O M P T S E TTL E M E N T S .

L O S S E S B Y L I G H T N I N G A D M I T TE D U N D E R F I R E P O L I CI E S .

A P P L I C A TI O N S F O R A G E N C I E S I N V IT E D . - a er Gno . . ME e a M NV E L L Mwn . E D S am n . G . S . A , g A , y 3 LOND ON. 7

V IS ITO RS TO LO N D O N .

- F i r s t C l a s s T e m p e r an c e H o t e l , 6 , 7 , 8 , a n d 9 B r i d ge w a t e r

S q u a r e , B a r b i c a n , E . C . ' Mo st central for B u si n ess or P leasu re . 2 mi n u t es walk from Aldersgate Street ’ ’ ’ mi n u s lk f m P au l a h dra an d an d 1 mi nu tes S ta ti on. 6 te wa ro St . s C t e l 7 to 0 ' wa k from i T m le an ohn esle s ha l Ni h r E s li shed 18 59. l C ty e p d J W y C p e . g t Porte . tab i - k l Q u et, H o me Li e, an d C omfortab e . — T er m s B e d a n d B r e a k fa s t , 3 3 . 6 11 . t o i n c l u d i n g a l l c h a r ge s . Wri L n r n te f r to e eek i n o don with Ta iff n es i o ial s free. o How Sp n d a W , a d T t m — Tde rams H ealthi es L ondon . Tele hon e 959 C en tral g t, p . M t r ie or W . L OS SO CK , Resi den P opr t .

V I C T O RI A , S . W . W I L TO N HO T E L

O o site S . E . C . an d Stati on s ( pp ) ,

Speci all y con ven i en t for Travellers t o an d fro m Con ti n en t an d S outh C oast Resorts.

W e l l A p p o i n t e d , a n d I n e x p e n s i v e . ICTORIA i s o n e of the bes t lo cali ti es i n L o n don fo r ease of ac c ess to the best shop s men B u ki n h u s o f f amu se t . c am P ala e m o s an d places o g c , West i n ster Abbey , H e ’ P a hedral J ames s he r en n ll Mall an d arli amen w t St. t G e a H d P arks a t, N e C , , d y e , P , ’ Pi ccadill ar all within 5 t o 15 mi n u tes walk an d the ri n ci al Theatres wi thi n a y , e , p p mn i u s ri de l a. Cab Fare o r 1d. O b .

Ro o m s fr o m 3 s . 6 d . F ull Ta ri ff o n ap p li c a ti on . — Tele rams TUF F ATO L ON D ON . Tele hon e 3 91 IC TOR I . g , p V A

22 to 4-6 and 59 to 68 HARROW ROAD

L O N D O N , W .

ron REMOVING AND WAREHOUS ING

F U RN I T U R E , P I A N O S , L U G G A G E , & c .

Special Accommodation for Luggage.

Pnor mnr ons

— D INGTON 8 Telephone PA D 9. 3 8 Lo o n~ LossmMOUTB —LOUGB S WILLY

LO E O C RNWALL . , O H E A D A N D H “ L O US E H O T E L .

PRIVATE HOTEL EN PENSION. IMMEDIATELY FACING THE BA Y. E ARATE I N AB LE S P D NI G T S . L N M KE OU GE . S O ROOM

Excellent Boati n . Fi shin Bathi n Moto r ara e an Ins t g g. g. G g d pec i on Pi t. l — i H T n Go f Course Nike o les. Lawn ennis a d Cr uet Club a d oinin oq lmost a j g.

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M LOSS IE OUTH .

S T O T F I E L D H O T E L .

PE RF E T LF R’ RE AT A C G O E S TRE . TW O S P L E N D ID G O L F C O U R E S 9 A N D 8 H O L E S ( 1 S ). E L E B M E R A TE TE E X C L N T B A TH IN G E A C H . O D RM S .

M A G N I F I C E N T N E W L O U N G E .

M R AR A MM D I N PE L E tc . E c OTO C CCO O AT O . TRO , , t .

Tari on a li cati on to WILLIAM CH RISTIE P ro ri etor f pp , p .

AL . L H SWILLY co . D ONEG OUG ,

P O R T S A L O N H O T E L .

rds ﬁr -c lass acc ommoda i n an c o m H IS excellen t H o tel , whi ch affo st t o d every fort t o u s i s ma ni c en l s wi h s u F amili es Go lfers an d other To ri st , ﬁ t y itu ated t o thern , , g , n m u n i n vi ews o f ma c hless beau t Th e Go lf i a ct an d c mman d s sea a d o ta t . L nks sp e , o y

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n i R Illustrated Brochure o applicat on to MANAGE .

40 MALVE R - E A MAL RN Nr TGB T, VE

MALVERN .

(PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY) . “ HE ﬁrst ime we vi si ted Malvern when shown in to an u er _ t p ‘ , p T ’ chamber i n the FOLE Y ARMS we were li erall taken aback. , t y We can hardly say more than that the prospect struck us as far ﬁn er than ” from the terrace over the Thames a i hmo etc — Extract rom t R c nd, etc. , . f arti cle i n B lackwood t 1 8 , A ugus 8 4. ' Coffee Room a H te a nd D rawi n g Ro om for Ladi es an d Gentlemen. Table d O t

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MALVERN .

T H E A B B E Y H OTE L .

I N E X C E L L E N T S I TUATI O N .

MO S T C O MF O RTAB L E F AM I L Y H OTE L .

N e w a n d C o m mo dio us C o ffe e an d S m o ki n g Ro o m s h ave be e n

Op en e d , an d S u it es o f Ro o m s w ith Pr i vate B ath adde d .

S HN ID E Mana er “ W . C E R, g .

GT. MALVE RN . OR L D IV E L P T AN PR AT HOTE .

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Park Cro ue and Tenn i s roun ds . E lectri c L i ht hr u h out . Sani ar i ca q t g g t o g t y Cert ﬁ te .

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T E L . 1 5 1 . S P E CI A L A TTE N TI ON GI V E N T o C U I S I N E .

DANIEL WOODMAN Pro ri etor a nd Ma na , p ger .

MAR ATE G .

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M A T LO O K .

E s ta bli s he d 1 8 53 .

N E o f t e ar a om n n u h L gest n d Most Complete i n the Ki ngd . A

O ” ri valled S u i te o f H dro athi c B aths i nclu di n an U to date y p , g p In stallati o n o f Electri cal A li an pp c es .

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MILT N P ro r tor . 0. H A O i e G o od G ar ag e . M o t o r C ars fo r Hi re . , p H MINE EAD .

W E LLIN G T O N FA M ILY H O T E L .

Cen tral for meets o f D ev n an d o mers et ta ho n ds West S omerset an d o ther o S S g u , Pac ks f F oxho u n ds H r & i n ks B illiard s H o t a n d Cold o , arri e s , c . Clo se to G o lf L . . B a hs o bli n x t . G od S ta . Lo o se B o es & c . g , tor H WE STACOTT P rop ri e .

H EA DQ UA RTE RS W E S T S O ME RS ET P O LO C LUB .

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MULLION ORNWALL , C . M L L I U ON C OV E H OTE L .

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’ o Oban and West Hi hlands . Pr c Mackay s Guide t g i e 6d. and ls . d L l mira l Scotsman an o ca Press An ad b e Guide. " u n M s u sefu l f ll P ch o t o a .

' ’ cial a r an B o Mackay s Spe M ps and Ta t o ks of Vi ews . cture Pos a man from w ot Largest S tock of Pi t C rds , y o n Ph ographs .

’ s tive Re i ster of Furni h d Hou r Mackay Des crip g s e ses , Apa tments , s . u F s Fr Shooti ngs , a d i hing . ee, ld. Stamp. RN EEN’ S PARK PLAOE AND R E EE OO ER QU GEO G STR T.

OKEHAMPTON D EVON , . W H I TE H A R T H TE O L .

M i n i n 86 r m or a L . n th B rd rs of Da t o e L S W. l (O e o e ), . E y .

’ MO D ERATE TARIF F . E L E C TRIC L IG HT. B US M EETS TRA INS . MOTO CARS ON HIRE R .

o hi n T o P o s ti n g i n all i ts B ran c h es . C a c g rip s ve r D artm o o r . I fr Vi si rs s a in Ho l FIS H NG ( ee to to t y g i n te ) .

. LI BIL ARDS . GARAGE (free) HUNTING. H E YW D Telegrams J OH N G . OO , ‘ m n Whit H art keha o . e , O pt

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“ HE modern H otel of Oxford clo se to the Colle es Publi c , g , ’ l in an d o osi te Mart rs Memo i al Re lete with d s r . Bui g , pp y p i e every comfort an d con ven en c .

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ELEOTRIO LIGHT THROUOHOUT.

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TH R E E P O P U L A R O X F O R D H A N D B O O K S . ’ A LD E N S O X FO RD G U ID E . n e H u n dred an d F ort -E i hth Th ou san O y g d .

B E D W RD A L D E N . The B est H an dbo ok for i sitors . An n all r y A C . V u y evi sed an d alwa da al 16mo ro fu s el illu strated an d - y s up to te. Roy , p y , with a Key Plan of the “ it an d Uni versi Pa er co vers 6d . n et. P o sta e 2 C y ty p , g , d . With App en dix, Old ” Oxford several addi ti on al i llu strati on s and a n ew Co loured Ma i n c o h l , , p , l t ettered , 1 8 n et P os a e . . t g , 3d .

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mus rated b Ni net Photo ra hs re roduced i n the Hi hest St le of Art t y y g p , p g y . h mos sefu an d i teresti n books on Oxford that h On e of t e t u l n g as been pu bli shed.

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O F TH E K I N D I N G R E A T B R I TA I N .

- 600 feet above Sea Level .

D eli ghtful Groun ds .

Pin e Woods adj oi nin g.

Excell en t Roads for M t an o ori ng d Cy clin g. Charmi n g Walks an d Dri ves in the famous — xcellen t 1 8 -H ole C o urse n ear G O L F . E . T t WALTE R SCO T Coun ry .

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ti on s i n ol u r ri c n et B P ost 5 . I llustra C o . P e 205 . ( y 20 6 d . ) B L D B TL E R C o n tai n i n 6 L U . 1 L E TTE R S F R O M T H E H O Y L A N D . y A Y g u f m ai n i n s b th e A h r P ri e a ll u s i o n i n lo r r P t u o c . 5 . F ull P ge I trat s C o o g y t . 7 6 d n et B P ost . ( y 7 5 . i i d . A B J O H N F N N E MOR E C on tai n i n 1 2 D . P E E P S A T TH E H O L Y L N . y I g

i i n l r J OH N F U L L E Y L O V E R 1 . P ri c e n u ll ll strat on s C o o u b . 1 . et . F P age I u y , 5 6 d .

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l I B eg to an n ou n ce that they have secu red for their cli en ts acc mmo o dati o n i n the followi n g HOtels in some o f the su n n i est , Swi R ss eso rts for tho se who desi re a Wi n ter H oliday Wi th

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H o t e l B e l l e v u e .

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M R G I N S — G r a n d H l O o t e d e s B a i n s .

- - — Y I L L A R S S U R O L L O N G r a n d H o t e l H u y e r a n .

G r a n d H o t e l .

H o t e l B e l l e v u e .

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All the roo ms i n so me o f the above H o tels hav e already be en booked

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i n en s L a ces etc. L i n e n l i k e N e w . L , , n-t n a n ” . O .

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B O N U S Y E A R 1 91 2. NATIONAL PROVIDENT INSTITUTION

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Foun ded 1835 In c or or ted 1910. . p a

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TH R n tr E BU NS COUNTRY This i s a co mp an io n v o lu m e to the S co tt C o u y . - e s t n ta in I t desc ribes the ho m es an d ho me lif o f B urn , i c o s BY C H A RL E S s D G L . O U AL s k t s f i n te m o raries a n d hi u rro un di n s an d e che o h s c o p s s g , in c ide n tall it trace s his develo me n t as man an d o e t C ON T AI N I N G y p p fro m Allo wa to D umfries . 3 2 F UL L ' PAGE I L L US T RAT I O N S y

This wo rk trac es the fo o ts te s o f D icke n s himself an d IIE DICKENS COUNTRY p , p o in ts o u t the direc t p erso nal asso c ia tio n s o f B OZ wi th varIo us to wn s an d lo ca li ti es I n G rea t B ritai n be in n i n BY F . G . K ITTO N , g g with his birthplac e a t P o rts mo u th (n o w a D i cke n s C ON T N IN G AI M u seu m) an d c o n c lu ding with in teresting details c o n 2 F L L - G E L L ’ 3 U US T R T ON S r n v r l PA I A I c e n i g his fa o u i te ho me a t G ad s H il .

E THACKERAY COUNTRY The Tha cke ray C o un try treats O f tho se lo calities which are o f p rimary in teres t to tho se who are ac qu ain ted

with the life a n wri ti n s f th rea t n velis t. r BY L E W IS M E LV I L L E d g o e g o M . M elville i s care fu l to g ive all the biog rap hical i n fo rma tio n C O N T N N G ’ AI I c o n n ec te d wi th Thacke ray s residen c e fro m hi s arrival in 2 F UL L - G E L L US T R T O N S 3 PA I A I E n lan d fro m I n dia a t the a e o f six u n til his dea th g g .