BANTRY & BEARA GLENGARRIFF • CASTLETOWNBERE WITH SHEEP’S HEAD & MIZEN PENINSULAS

2019/2020 Free contents Welcome to West Cork IF YOU take the N71 through West Cork you’ll pass through one • Page 3-5 Bantry – About & History of the most isolated and little-known corners of Europe, a place, • Page 6-7 Bantry Town Map which has cast its spell over visitors for decades. Even if you do not diverge from this ‘main road’, you will see • Page 8-11,14 Bantry – Food & Shopping memorable scenery, getting ever more rugged as you go further west. When you do have time to stop along the way, or take a • Page 11-13 Bantry – Entertainment detour from your route, you may stumble upon that combination of people and scenery, music and food, nature and history that • Page 15 Bantry – Arts & Crafts will bring you back again and again. We have set out this guide in the form of easy to follow maps • Page 16-18 Bantry – Activities and lists of things to do in response to the visitor’s questions: “Where can we go, what is there to see and do, and where do • Page 19-22 Sheep’s Head Peninsula we eat?” • Page 23-27 Mizen Head Peninsula Mark out some places that you think would be worth visiting and plan your route around them; you will not be disappointed. • Page 28-29 A Grand Day Out Map You’ll find more open spaces, scenery and tranquility than it is possible to take in during one visit. Many people return year • Page 30 Annual Events / Festivals after year to re-experience the peaceful rhythm of the fishing and farming community, where the seasons are paramount and • Page 31 Ballylickey people do notice how fast the grass is growing! There is a well-balanced blend of modern and traditional in • Page 32 West Cork Markets West Cork towns and villages; old stone buildings have been lovingly restored and shop frontages are in keeping with the • Page 33-38 Glengarriff tradition. Look off the beaten track and you will find clues to • Page 39 Activities a rich archeological heritage: ruined castles, ring forts and standing stones. You’ll find the easy-going nature of the local • Pages 40-42 Beara Art, Craft & Sculpture people invites you to relax and enjoy life at a more gentle pace. As they say, there’s time for everything in West Cork! • Page 43-45 Castletownbere • Page 46 Beara Wildlife Front cover photos: A view of Bantry Bay; looking for treasures in Glengarriff; Pork crubeens from the all-day dining menu at Eccles • Page 47 Bere Island Hotel, Glengarriff and a new addition of the local wildlife.

• Page 48-49 Allihies, Eyeries & Ardgroom Thanks to Niall O’Sullivan (www.niallosphoto.com); John Eagle, • Page 50 Beara History & Archaeology (johneaglephoto.com); Mike Brown (mikebrownphotography.com) Niall Duffy (westcorkphoto.com) and Margo Finn McCarthy for photographs. • Page 51-53 Beara Walking & Cycling Thanks to all who contribute information for this guide and also to all the businesses without whose support this publication would not be possible. • Page 54-55 Beara Map Publisher’s Statement: This publication has been carefully produced by West Cork People Please call West Cork People on 023 8835698 or Publications Ltd. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that details email [email protected] to advertise in this guide. are correct, the publishers cannot be responsible for any errors or omissions. Permission from the publishers of this guidebook has to be obtained for reproduction of photographs or information in the guide.

Kerry Cork City

Glengarriff West Cork Bandon Ballylickey Eyeries Kinsale Castletownbere Whiddy Bantry Allihies Durrus Clonakilty Dursey Bere Island Ahakista Kilcrohane Skibbereen Ballydehob Rosscarbery Schull Baltimore Sherkin Cape Clear

2 BANTRY ABOUT/HISTORY to France, an English  eet, over Bantry Library and vying Aunder colourful Admiral Herbert, pastwith and same forpresent attention is entered the bay searching another interesting building. THEentered beautiful the bay town searching of Bantry nestlesanother among interesting drumlins building. at the for them. In the battle that Built in 1825, it has no fewer headfor them. of Bantry In the Bay,battle flanked that on oneBuilt side in 1825, by the it hasSheep’s no fewer Head followed, the French out- than  fteen stained glass Peninsulafollowed, the and French on the out- other by thethan Beara  fteen Peninsula. stained Bantryglass manoeuvered the English and windows, commemorating townmanoeuvered is that perfect the English fusion andof the past,windows, present commemorating and future. With made their escape. different persons and groups amade history their stretching escape. back to Neolithicdifferent times, persons when humansand groups left In 1697, troops of William from the community. The theirIn 1697,first imprints troops of in Williamplaces like fromKillnaruane, the community. through to The the of Orange were landed in interior has just recently been tumultuousof Orange were era oflanded the French in Armadainterior and has Theobald just recently Wolfe been Bantry. On 15th December renovated, and is well worth Tone;Bantry. from On 15ththe frenetic December commercial renovated, mackerel and and is pilchard well worth 1796, Bantry was once again viewing. The congregation fisheries1796, Bantry of the was l9th once and again early 20thviewing. centuries The to congregation the busy the destination of a French here had a real treat this cosmopolitan town it is today, Bantry has always offered  eet: 43 ships and 15,000 year when celebrating their delights for all the senses. men set sail from Brest to Christian heritage, by having The famous Friday market on The Square is bursting with support the Irish patriot, Wolfe on the altar a chalice used delighful sights, smells and tastes; an atmosphere echoed Tone, a founder member of in the parish from 1635 and through the town’s winding streets with their many shops, the United Irishmen, who another from 1764, and the bars and restaurants. On soft Autumn and Spring days, you’ll was determined to establish Baptism Register from 1788. often spot a rainbow in the ever-changing sky above, with a an Irish Republic by armed These are now computerised backdrop of green pastures slipping down to the shoreline. rebellion. Easterly storms for the convenience of tourists Nighttime during summer months ushers in the sounds of off the Irish coast dispersed and locals who wish to check traditional,the  eet, and classical while some and contemporary up on musicfamily history.to the streets, hostelriessucceeded and in anchoring grounds of beautiful Bantry AbbeyHouse, cemetery a place whichin Bantry commands Bay, many wonderful were viewswas over originally the inner the bay. site of scatteredWith such in thecolour Atlantic. and beautyOn everywherea Franciscan you Abbey look, builtBantry is27th naturally January a haven1797, anfor orderwriters, musicians,probably c.1460.visual artists The and sculptors.was given Theto abandon range of the cultural activitiesfew remaining available stones throughout of theattempted year is invasion,unbeatable, and tempting the visitorsthe building to stay have longer been and experienceremaining sea more. worthy ships assembled to form an altar sailed back to France. Bantry where open-air Mass is Town Commissioners at their celebrated near the centre of very  rst meeting voted to the burial ground. change the name of the town Towards the seaward side square from Egerton Square of the cemetery stands the to Wolfe Tone Square in 10foot high Famine Cross 1896. erected by Tim Healy and his In 1969, the supertankers brother Maurice in 1878 in — Universe Ireland etc — memory of the hundreds of were frequent visitors to victims of the 1846/48 great Bantry Bay, bringing oil from Irish Famine whose bodies Kuwait to Bantry via Cape of were thrown into famine pits Good Hope for transhipment in this area. It is inscribed: to European re neries in ‘To mark the Famine Pits of smaller tankers, as Gulf Oil 1846-8 May God give rest Co. established a Crude to the souls of the faithful Oil Tank Farm on Whiddy departed’. OilBANTRY Tank Farm has anon interestingWhiddy departed’.National Tidy Towns, “The Island. The tanker explosion Tim Healy was a native Island.blend of The architecture tanker explosion in its outstandingTim Healy physicalwas a native location and the loss of over 50 lives son, born in Bantry in 1855, andbuilt theenvironment, loss of over from 50 livesfine son,of Bantry, born inmarried Bantry with in 1855, its was a tragic happening. The in the building now occupied washistoric a tragic buildings happening. to the The inheritage the building is unique now in occupied the complex is now owned by by Bank of Ireland. He complexmodern design, is now ownedfor example by bysouthwest” Bank of Ireland.and similarly He the State, and operating on became an Irish nationalist the State,fine curved and operating design of on the became“Bantry is an worth Irish anationalist visit just a smaller scale, it is used to politician, journalist, author, aGarda smaller Station scale, at it Wolfe is used Tone to politician,to stroll about journalist, the streets”. author, hold the national reserve of barrister and one of the most holdSquare, the andnational Bantry reserve Library, of barristerWhile strolling and one about, of the why most oil. controversial Irish Members oil.standing on the site of the controversialnot pop into the Irish quaint Members little The Church of Ireland ‘St of Parliament (MPs) in formerThe ChurchWoollen of Mills Ireland in Bridge ‘St ofBantry Parliament Museum (MPs) behind in the Brendan the Navigator’ is a the House of Commons. BrendanStreet, built the in Navigator’ the shape is of a theFire House Station. of HereCommons. you will find spectacular cut-stone building On 6th December, 1922, spectaculara dolmen. Of cut-stone course, nobuilding visit Ona range 6th December, of items from 1922, bygone in Wolfe Tone Square and he was sworn in as First into WolfeBantry Tone is complete Square withoutand hedays was ranging sworn from in as the First famous well worth a visit. Built in Governor General of the wellcalling worth to Bantry a visit. House, Built in GovernorWest Cork General Hooded of Cloak the to 1818, it is noted for its carved Irish Free State – the king’s 1818,famed it for is itsnoted tapestries for its carved and Irishthe bastible Free State hanging – the from king’s the wood and stained glass representative. The Healy woodexotic andartefacts, stained with glass its representative.crane to the Coomhola The Healy anvil window. Pass in the Beara Peninsula window.restored gardens in such a Passwhich in is the a relic Beara of thePeninsula smelting St. Finbarr’s R.C. Church is named in his honour. spectacularSt. Finbarr’s setting. R.C. According Church isindustry named carried in his honour.on in that side in Chapel Street, towering into Chapela recent Street, adjudicator towering of of Bantry. 53 BANTRY ABOUT/HISTORY

The history and folklore of past the present library, was this town goes back a long arched over, together with way. According to an ancient the Alley River which flows Irish manuscript, ‘An Leabhar along Glengarriff Road. This Gabhala’, known as the Book formed the streets as well of Invasions, the first colony as a small portion of The to arrive in Ireland landed at Square. In 1846 the Square ‘Dún na mBarc’ — the fortress was extended to the Church of the boats — Donemark, of Ireland, while in 1895 one mile north of the present Bantry Estate donated part of town of Bantry, on the N71 the foreshore plus £500.00 route. to extend the Square to its The area was well present state. The add-on car populated for many of the park was provided by Cork early centuries, as evidenced County Council in more recent by the many stone circles, times. megalithic tombs, ring forts beneath this is a carving of na bhFiach). A short distance Bantry town and and so on, which can be four horned animals, butting from here along the wayward surrounding countryside was, seen dotted around the each other. The lower panel marked walkway, we find a relatively speaking, sparsely surrounding countryside. on this face is apparently fine example of a wedge tomb populated, and untouched by One such example of a stone unique in Irish art. It is the – another evidence of life in outside influences, leaving circle is signposted close to earliest surviving depiction of the Bantry area almost four it completely gaelic up until the nearby village of Kealkil, a curragh-type boat, which thousand years ago. Here you 1591 when some English while at the edge of Bantry appears to be skin covered, can take a short stroll along merchants arrived. They were town stands the famous and it moves through a sea of the ridge of the hill and enjoy lured here by the abundance Kilnaruane Pillar Stone. This crosses. Pedestrian access is some of the most breathtaking of fish in the bay, and the impressive carved monument available to this monument, views of Bantry Bay and its enormous shoals of pilchards is not only unique in County through a field from the road islands as well as the valleys available in Bantry Bay. Great Cork but has no parallels in marked ‘Rope Walk’, which of the mainland and the numbers were employed at Ireland. It represents an early runs along from the side of distant mountains, including the fishing, and the merchants Christian settlement in the the Westlodge Hotel complex. Knockbue (Cnocbaoí), to the accumulated great riches from area, and the carvings are Continuing your journey north, the highest mountain the poorly paid labours of the dated to 750A.D. Two faces along the Rope Walk, after peak in County Cork. fishermen. The pilchard fish of the stone are decorated visiting Kilnaruane Pillar The name Bantry were a great source of fish for approx. two thirds of their Stone, travel past Bantry (Beanntraí) is reputed to oil, and a mechanical process length. The north west face Hospital up to the amenity be derived from one of the was devised to extract the is divided into four panels. area/car park and picnic area earliest chiefs of the district, oil from the fish. The oil was The top panel is composed at the top of the Sheskin hill, Beannt, a grandson of the then exported. of a series of interweavings, know as Knocknaveagh (Cnoc famous Conor MacNeasa, Bantry Bay is one of the King of Ulster in the first finest and safest harbours century, whose descendants in Europe. Being very deep settled in the region. Initially, and sheltered, it has been Bantry Tourist Office the name Bantry applied to used from earliest times by Call into the Bantry Tourist the bay and surrounding area, fishermen and merchant ships Information Office on the while the town at the time had as a safe haven. For centuries Square for helpful advice and the older name of Ballygobbin the fleets of England, Spain, THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY, information on all aspects of (Baile Góban) after St. Goban France and Holland fished the stretching 2,500km along tourism in West Cork. whose cell is said to have bay, paying harbour dues and Ireland’s beautiful untamed been at Kilnaruane Pillar fishing tax to the O’Sullivan coastline from Malin Head Old Courthouse Stone. Incidentally, the older Beres who controlled the bay. in Donegal to the Old Head Wolfe Tone Square, Bantry, gaelic name for Bantry Bay From Bantry, ships sailed of Kinsale in West Cork, is 027 50229 loaded with recruits for the the world’s longest touring was Cuan Baoí, which links French, Spanish, Austrian route. The route features 188 Opening Hours: with Dursey Island (Oileán and Dutch armies. In ‘Discovery Points’ including ‘15 Mon – Sat: 10am - 6pm Baoí) and Cnocbaoí, the March 1689 a French fleet Wonders of the Wild Atlantic Sunday: mornings only highest mountain peak. Way’; in other words, iconic It’s interesting to note that sailed into Bantry Bay with must-see sights along Ireland’s many of the principal streets 7,000 soldiers, arms and west coast, three of which in Bantry town, as we know ammunition to aid James are located in West Cork — them today, were actually 11 in his war with William of Dursey Island, Mizen Head tidal or waterways up to the Orange. Many of the soldiers and the Old Head of Kinsale. nineteenth century. The sea were killed in the battles of Look out for its unique zigzag lapped the end of Church Derry and the Boyne. signage. Road. In 1832 the Mill Pond As the French sailed Stream, that flows down down Bantry Bay returning 4 BANTRY ABOUT/HISTORY to France, an English fleet, over Bantry Library and vying under Admiral Herbert, with same for attention is entered the bay searching another interesting building. for them. In the battle that Built in 1825, it has no fewer followed, the French out- than fifteen stained glass COEN’S manoeuvered the English and windows, commemorating made their escape. different persons and groups PHARMACY In 1697, troops of William from the community. The of Orange were landed in interior has just recently been Bantry. On 15th December renovated, and is well worth 1796, Bantry was once again viewing. The congregation the destination of a French here had a real treat this fleet: 43 ships and 15,000 year when celebrating their men set sail from Brest to Christian heritage, by having support the Irish patriot, Wolfe on the altar a chalice used Tone, a founder member of in the parish from 1635 and the United Irishmen, who another from 1764, and the Visit us for... was determined to establish Baptism Register from 1788. Healthcare Advice an Irish Republic by armed These are now computerised rebellion. Easterly storms for the convenience of tourists Skincare, Sun products off the Irish coast dispersed and locals who wish to check the fleet, and while some up on family history. Baby Products succeeded in anchoring Bantry Abbey cemetery Beauty & Fragrances in Bantry Bay, many were was originally the site of scattered in the Atlantic. On a Franciscan Abbey built 27th January 1797, an order probably c.1460. The Prescriptions dispensed on all schemes. was given to abandon the few remaining stones of Forgot your prescription or tablets? attempted invasion, and the the building have been remaining sea worthy ships assembled to form an altar Call in. We will help sailed back to France. Bantry where open-air Mass is Town Commissioners at their celebrated near the centre of Open: Mon to Sat 8.30-18.30 very first meeting voted to the burial ground. Sundays & every Bank Holiday Monday change the name of the town Towards the seaward side 11.00-12.00 square from Egerton Square of the cemetery stands the to Wolfe Tone Square in 10foot high Famine Cross 1896. erected by Tim Healy and his In 1969, the supertankers brother Maurice in 1878 in — Universe Ireland etc — memory of the hundreds of were frequent visitors to victims of the 1846/48 great Bantry Bay, bringing oil from Irish Famine whose bodies Kuwait to Bantry via Cape of were thrown into famine pits Good Hope for transhipment in this area. It is inscribed: to European refineries in ‘To mark the Famine Pits of smaller tankers, as Gulf Oil 1846-8 May God give rest Co. established a Crude to the souls of the faithful Oil Tank Farm on Whiddy departed’. Island. The tanker explosion Tim Healy was a native and the loss of over 50 lives son, born in Bantry in 1855, was a tragic happening. The in the building now occupied complex is now owned by by Bank of Ireland. He the State, and operating on became an Irish nationalist a smaller scale, it is used to politician, journalist, author, hold the national reserve of barrister and one of the most oil. controversial Irish Members The Church of Ireland ‘St of Parliament (MPs) in Brendan the Navigator’ is a the House of Commons. spectacular cut-stone building On 6th December, 1922, in Wolfe Tone Square and he was sworn in as First well worth a visit. Built in Governor General of the Wolfe Tone Square, Bantry 1818, it is noted for its carved Irish Free State – the king’s wood and stained glass representative. The Healy (027) 50531 window. Pass in the Beara Peninsula St. Finbarr’s R.C. Church is named in his honour. Fax Number: 027 50701 in Chapel Street, towering Email: [email protected] 5 BANTRY TOWN MAP

Maps © West Cork People Publications

6 BANTRY TOWN MAP

7 BANTRY FOOD & SHOPPING Organico is a haven for food lovers

cut-out & keep recipe Organico Green Smoothie Enough for 4-6 people • 1 pineapple • 4-5 bananas, frozen • 125g spinach • 100g kale • 2 tsp spirulina powder • 500mls coconut water Peel oranges • 5 tbs protein powder Place the pineapple, • 1 avocado avocado, oranges, frozen • 500mls fresh cloudy banana and greens into a apple juice big blender jug along with • 1-2 limes (depending on the apple juice and blend how sweet the pineapple adding coconut water if it is) gets too think. • 2 oranges Then add the protein pow- der, spirulina and the rest of Prep the pineapple by cutting the coconut water and blend the top and tail off, peeling until really smooth. and cutting into chunks. Taste and depending on Wash the spinach and kale how sweet it is add lime juice and take off any big stalks, to taste. Owners Rachel roughly chop. This smoothie last for up to & Hannah Dare Peel and dice avocados. 24 hours chilled in the fridge.

ORGANICO Cafe Shop and made cosmetics as well as and offers an amazing Bakery (No. 2 Glengarriff international brands such as organic lunch menu with lots Road, Bantry) is a great spot Dr Hauschka, an extensive of vegetarian options (and a to have a delicious lunch and range of supplements few non-vegetarian options a good browse. Run by sisters including Solgar and A.Vogel, too including Gubbeen Open Hannah and Rachel Dare, the baby essentials such as Ham sandwiches and spelt shop is one of Ireland’s most nappies and wipes and lots sausage rolls from locally admired wholefood shops of treats too. All the staff are reared free-range pigs). and is packed with everything experienced and friendly and They serve great organic from handmade spelt bread you are encouraged to take coffee, organic juices, fresh to olives, organic wines, full advantage of their natural and imaginative sandwiches cheeses and amazing organic health knowledge. and a gorgeous display of vegetables. Organico Cafe is spacious, cakes from their own bakery Organico is now catering comfortable and contemporary including many gluten free WHEN Valerie Kingston for zero waste shopping (with seating over two floors) options. began bringing cheesecakes with a new bulk refill area There is also free Wi-Fi, to sell at Bantry market in stocking dry goods such as takeaways, comfy leather 1997, she found that people pulses, cereals, nuts, dried couches, regular exhibitions just loved the rich tasty milk fruit and more, in whatever from local artists, and a great produced on the family farm in quantity you need. Bring play area for smaller children Drimoleague. your own container or use on a wet day. Today, Alan and Valerie’s their organic cloth bags – no Look up www.organico.ie for cheesecakes, yoghurts and plastic to take home! There more information, and check desserts have gained a are also lovely glass jars out Facebook (Organico- reputation across Ireland and beyond, and the farm is a hive available to purchase – they Bantry) for events and menus. of activity. make organising the kitchen Phone 027 55905/51391. But while the business has cabinet and keeping track of Open from 9 to 6pm Monday grown, the cows continue to ingredient amounts so easy. to Saturday; closed Sundays lead a blissful life by the Ilen You will also find locally and Bank Holidays. River. 8 BANTRY FOOD & SHOPPING

O’Connors Seafood Restaurant has been awarded Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland in 2016, 2017, 2018 & 2019 by The GoodEating Guide, Yes Chef and the Michelin Guide

cut-out & keep recipe Pan seared O’CONNOR’S Castletownbere SEAFOOD RESTAURANT cod THE SQUARE, BANTRY | T: 027 55664 with cheesy garlic potato, topped with a Donegal rapeseed oil A true taste of West Cork salsa Verde Head Chef Anne Marie Butler Kiely of O’Connors Seafood Restaurant shares one of her favourite creations.

This recipe is based on 7. Finish with a decent knob locally sourced readily of butter for flavour and allow available ingredients in West rest for 3-4 minutes before Cork. Serves 4. serving. Ingredients: 8. For the salsa verde, finely • 4 x cod fillets (200g each) chop all the herbs into a bowl • 1 bunch flat leaf parsley (large enough to mix at the • 1 bunch coriander end). • 2 sprigs rosemary 9. Finely chop in the garlic • 2 sprigs mint and olives and add in. • 2 vine tomatoes 10. Remove the seeds from • Anchovies x 100g the tomatoes and finely chop • 10 black pitted olives into the bowl. Recommended in the Michelin Guide 2019 • 6 cloves garlic 11. Finely chop in 100g of & Lucinda O’Sullivan’s Little Black Book of • 1 full lemon, zested & juiced anchovies (these are optional ‘Great Places to Stay & Eat’ • 50g butter as are very strong in flavour) • 10 potatoes, sliced very “Head Chef Anne Marie Butler has been wowing diners 12. Finely season with Irish finely with her culinary style and talent at this popular Bantry Atlantic sea salt and cracked • 100ml cream restaurant for the past few years. The menu changes black pepper and add in the • 50g grated cheddar regularly, as you’d expect with fresh seafood, and there’s lemon juice and zest. • Salt and pepper to season plenty to please the concerned fishophile, but, 13. This salsa is more of a • 1 bottle Donegal rapeseed if you get a chance, try their signature dish of monkfish dressing than a salsa so the oil and smoked venison risotto.” oil is important. Add in 200ml of Donegal rapeseed oil and Lucinda O’Sullivan 1. Finely slice the potatoes mix well. Consistency should and place in a tray. be loose. Open: Monday – Sunday 2. Boil up the cream adding 14. For plating, place the four crushed garlic cloves, Lunch 12.30pm - 3pm garlic potato at the bottom in salt and pepper and whisk in Dinner 5.30pm - 9.30pm the centre of the plate. the grated cheddar. 15. Sit the fillet of cod on top. 3. Pour over the potatoes New Kid’s Set Menu and cover with tin foil 16. Place a good spoonful of 2 courses for €10 • 3 courses for €12.50 salsa verde on top of the cod 4. Bake for 40 minutes or and drizzle extra around the until soft to a knife tip. plate. Early Bird Menu: Nightly from 5.30pm 5. For the cod, heat up a 17. Finish with a garnish of 2 course / 3 course Menu available non-stick pan with Donegal choice and a lemon wedge. rapeseed oil. Recommended by the Coeliac Society of Ireland I use locally grown sprouting 6. Cook skin side down first, for its 95% coeliac friendly menu. Also vegetarian friendly. but some rocket salad would two minutes on either side be just as good. and finish in the oven for a further six minutes.

9 BANTRY FOOD & SHOPPING Where to eat...

YOU’LL receive a warm its premises on the quay. oysters and mussels. The with chat all day and into welcome and delicious “The Snug Bar & Restaurant philosophy here is to try not the evening. Great for tasty food from the owner/chef in Bantry is in pole position to interfere with the fish they home cooking and delicious at The Snug & O’D’s on with some of the best are serving, which comes pastries and desserts. the Square. In business for restaurants in Britain. simply presented with skin Offering accommodation, over 25 years, in the last few Simply the best.” The Daily side up, along with a variety food, a traditional Irish bar years The Snug expanded Telegraph of simple butters or sauces and live music The Bantry on top or on the side. The At The Maritime Hotel you Bay in the centre of town chefs are always exploring can choose to eat in the is a popular destination for new ideas and flavours and bar or the Ocean restaurant good food and a relaxed have recently incorporated – both combine a world of pub atmosphere any native seaweeds, one of flavours and influences with time of the day. Serving nature’s superfoods, to the the finest local ingredients to breakfast, lunch and dinner menu. Never fear if fish isn’t create a modern Irish dining with quality local produce your thing, they also serve experience. you’re sure to be served steak and a lovely vegetarian up a delicious meal with The Fish Kitchen is a family option. Walk in or call for a great friendly service here. run restaurant, located on reservation on 027 56651. Dishes to try include their New Street in Bantry, that Mingle with the locals at The traditional Irish breakfast, specialises in the freshest of Bake House, which buzzes Pie or Roast of the Day for locally caught fish, lobster, lunch or Skeaghanore Duck and Bantry Bay Mussels for dinner – this is certainly no ordinary bar food! Vegetarian options and Kid’s Menus are also available so plenty of choice for everyone. Overlooking Wolfe Tone Square, Bia Restaurant’s classic style serves mouth- watering dishes using quality local produce, seafood and meats that are given a French twist by their Head Chef, Gilles Eynaud: “Good

Home of the Earls of Bantry BANTRY HOUSE is not only stay the night in the B&B one of the finest historic located in the East Wing. houses in Ireland, but it also The original design of commands one of the best the garden which dates views overlooking Bantry Bay. back to the second Earl of It has been open to the public Bantry’s (1800-1865) travels since 1946, the first to do so can still be seen today. He in the country and possibly transformed the house and also in the British Isles. garden into a ‘Palazzo’ like The house is still owned those he had seen on the by descendants of Richard continent. White (First Earl of Bantry). The house frequently Today visitors can explore hosts highly atmospheric the house – which houses an musical recitals in conjunction important private collection of with West Cork Music. See furniture and objects of art – westcorkmusic.com. and the formal garden, have www.bantryhouse.com tea in the tearoom or even 10 BANTRY FOOD & SHOPPING cooking starts with good The Brick Oven has an produce and when you have extensive range of mouth- Traditional the richness of the West Cork watering pizzas from their Irish Bar larder to choose from there’s authentic wood-burning Serving Breakfast, an opportunity to really stove, together with a range excel.” Bia’s front-of-house of pasta, steak and seafood Lunch & Dinner team create a welcoming, options. With daily specials, Live Music relaxed atmosphere for you including vegetarian options, Wolfe Tone Square to enjoy, while you savour and a children’s menu, this Bantry your food and wine to the restaurant caters for all tastes T: 027 55789 fullest. The menu includes and budgets. Booking a table exciting specialties such as is recommended in busy www.bantrybay.ie Braised Short of Rib, Salmon periods and you can also Confit, Ribeye Steak and order pizza/pasta for delivery Bantry Bay Scallops with or take away. They also offer Clonakilty Black Pudding. an extensive catering menu Vegetarian dishes, Daily suitable for lazy days when Specials are also available, you just don’t feel like going and Set Menus can be out for dinner but want to eat created for Groups of 12 or something homecooked – an more. For reservations call ideal option for self-catering 027 55789 holidays.

BANTRY ENTERTAINMENT Classic Style Restaurant West Cork Chamber Music Festival Local produce with a French Twist June 28 – July 7, 2019 Wolfe Tone Square ONE of the highlights of the Bantry summer is the West Cork T: 027 55789 Chamber Music Festival, which presents world-class chamber music on the shores of Bantry Bay. Bantry’s 24th annual celebration of chamber music has invited 110 musicians, masters and students, established composers and apprentices, string players and wind players, solo sopranos and vocal consorts, pianists and harpsichordists, national and international Baroque ensembles, young prize- Authentic winners and living legends, Wood-Fired to gather in Bantry for 10 Pizza days of intense music- making. Seafood, Steak & Daily Specials There are up to The Quay, Bantry six concerts and four T: 027 52501 Eat In or Take Away masterclasses each day, www.thebrickovenbantry.com plus a series of Fringe instrument-makers and bow- events, public artist makers. interviews and talks and More details on www. a major exhibition of Irish westcorkmusic.ie and international string 11 BANTRY ENTERTAINMENT Enjoy a ‘session’ with local musicians

IN MANY parts of Ireland, reed melody instruments Nicole Maguire, Damien at Wild nightclub, which will informal ‘sessions’, or mixed predominate, especially Dempsey, Luka Bloom, keep you dancing until 2am gatherings of musicians fiddle, whistle, flute, uilleann Declan O Rourke, Hermitage and is open at weekends. performing for their own pipes, also concertina and Green, Kris Drever, The Experience one of the enjoyment, take place on accordion, and percussion Original Rudeboys and last and rare Irish drinking a weekly or more frequent instruments are of minor Larry Campbell and Teresa establishments in Ireland basis in bars, hotels, or clubs. importance. Williams. Live music every at Ma Murphy’s pub. Little Admission is usually free but Over the years Bantry Friday and Saturday nights has changed in this unique sometimes there is a nominal has become a centre of so check out their monthly bar, family-run since 1840. charge. Posters outside the music, both traditional and music line-up to see what’s Groceries can still be premises will tell you who is contemporary. Many of on when visiting! purchased in the shop whilst playing that night. Bantry’s bars host live music A regular feature on their the snug is still in operation, Traditional Irish music is nights throughout the year. events calendar are Stand Up where once only the ladies of rural more than urban Comedy shows with recent were allowed to drink and origins. Solo performance, acts including Joe Rooney, traditional matchmaking was in which subtleties of style Kevin McGahern, Chris performed. can best be heard, is the Kent and Bernard Casey all basis of the tradition, but showcasing the best of their group performance is now national tours! Ross Browne common. Singing is normally of RED FMs KC & Ross unaccompanied. In the is performing his Bojangle music session, instruments show on June 20th (tickets are played in unison in The ‘Barrel-House via EventBrite). These are combinations of any number. Sessions’ at The Mariner fantastic intimate comedy The bulk of the music venue in Bantry is fast nights which will keep you instrumental music played is becoming a mecca for live smiling long after the event fast isometric dance music music in West Cork. You will so watch out for new acts on — jigs, reels and hornpipes find local musicians and up their website. The cobbled beer garden is for the most part. This dance and coming bands belting out Popular live music is bursting with colour and the music has associated solo their tunes before handing something you can be certain new bar, which used to be and group dances, which over the reins to more of at The Bantry Bay. the old forge, has become a are also a major part of Irish established bands to rock Hosting everything from solo renowned venue for great live tradition. the dance floor ‘till late. Over artists to traditional music traditional music. From the thump of the the last number of years, The sessions, you will find live A popular drinking hole Bodhrán to the airy rasp of Mariner has hosted some music seven nights a week amongst the locals and the wooden flute, celtic music great music acts including here during the summer. tourists, Ma Murphy’s always is known by its instruments. Liam O’ Maonlaoi, Cathy What’s more, you can attracts a friendly and String, wind, and free- Davy, Don Baker, Eric Bell, continue your night next door colourful crowd.

Chief O’Neill Festival Bantry BBQ September 6 – 8, 2019 Festival EACH YEAR the musical legacy in America, but he never lost his of Chief O’Neill is celebrated love for the Irish music he had August 3 – 5, 2019 in Bantry with a traditional learned as a child growing up in music festival to highlight his Tralibane, near Bantry. O’Neill THE streets of Bantry achievements as a collector noticed that Chicago, with its come alive with the sound of traditional Irish music. The large Irish population, was home of music and BBQ’s being festival is an opportunity to to brilliant musicians from across fired up to make the most enjoy O’Neill’s amazing legacy Ireland so he set about building of the August Bank Holiday and achievements through a unique collection of the tunes weekend. Enjoy this free some of the best contemporary they played: a songbook for O’Neill helped to safeguard the event with tasty BBQ fayre musicians brought to Bantry the musicians of the future. future of traditional Irish music available throughout the for a packed programme of Chief O’Neill not only collected on both sides of the Atlantic. weekend whilst you listen concerts, workshops, sessions traditional tunes from Irish Help honour his achievements and musical fun. musicians in Chicago, he also to live music in the bars and by coming to Bantry for the pubs and on the streets. As the famous ‘Chief’ of the published them in an impressive Chief O’Neill Traditional Music Chicago police force, Captain series of books which are still Festival. O’Neill won fame and affection in print today. In the process, 12 BANTRY ENTERTAINMENT West Cork Literary Festival July 12 – 19, 2019 An independent bookshop for independent readers!

Eimear O’Herlihy, Festival Director West Cork Literary Festival. Pic: Darragh Kane THIS YEAR’S West Cork are singer-songwriter and Boyne, Joseph O’Connor Bantry Courthouse is the Literary Festival programme bestselling author Tracey and Hugo Hamilton; the two venue for a special crime is packed full of readings and Thorn (one half of duo authors of the phenomenally writing reading with Catherine workshops by leading writers Everything But the Girl); popular The Importance Ryan-Howard and Catherine from Ireland and overseas. Canadian poet and essayist of Being Aisling and many, Kirwan. New York Times As well as the series of five Anne Carson; writers many more. bestselling author Tana day workshops and readings, Sinéad Gleeson and Emilie Dublin poet and playwright French will be in Bantry the programme also includes Pine; Laureate for Irish Stephen James Smith, so House while Mark Boyle will children’s and young adult Fiction Sebastian Barry and central to the rise of the talk about his life without events, a Letter Café, Laureate na nÓg Sarah vibrant spoken word scene technology and read from Festival walk and talk on Crossan; Esi Edugyan,who in Ireland today, appears in his book The Way Home in Whiddy Island and a Festival was shortlisted for the the Maritime Hotel and also Future Forests, Kealkil. swim in Bantry Bay. Man Booker Prize 2018; tutors a free teenage poetry The West Cork Literary The evening events Irish Times writer Rosita workshop in Bantry Library. Festival is generously featuring Mary Robinson and Boland; travel writer Adam John Boyne, E R Murray and supported by The Arts Graham Norton events are Weymouth; poets Liz Berry, Cethan Leahy read from their Council, Cork County Library sold out but there are still Doireann Ní Ghríofa and work in St Brendan’s School and Arts Service and Fáilte tickets available for many of Jessica Traynor; novelists Kit Hall while Fighting Words Ireland. Booking online at the other events throughout de Waal, Sarah Moss, Patrick present free creative writing www.westcorkliteraryfestival. the week. Gale, Anjali Joseph,Claire workshops for teenagers and ie or by ringing 027 52788. Among those appearing Adam,Tessa Hadley, John children.

Masters of Tradition Kupala Festival August 21 – 25, 2019 June 23, 2019 MASTERS of Tradition is performances take place in CELEBRATE the summer to play traditional games and a five-day traditional music Bantry House and in one solstice with a day of taste traditional foods. Everyone festival held each August of Bantry’s other special multicultural midsummer is welcome to this free event in Bantry, featuring a series venues, St Brendan’s celebrations at Bantry Kupala so come along, get your flower Festival on Wolfe Tone Square. wreath, join the dancers, watch of performances that cover Church. This festival is a colourful the fire show and enjoy live the full spectrum of Irish The event provides a celebration in the style and taste music until late! traditional music. The platform where subtle of cultures from around the and sometimes obscure world and is something for all elements of Irish traditional the family to enjoy. music can be heard. By Fun events include face seeking the heart of the painting, balloon modelling, music we find a universal a food and craft market and so much more. Meet with real voice that has widespread Vikings and Slavs in their village appeal reaching across and watch live history lessons, many cultural and musical battles, crafts and rituals. barriers. Admire traditional Mexican, westcorkmusic.ie Indian, Nepalese and Polish dancers and musicians, learn 13 BANTRY FOOD & SHOPPING Shop ‘til you drop

BANTRY TOWN has armchair for parents! names like Avoca and a fantastic selection of There are a lot of special Caroline Kilkenny and also shops. From clothing and interest sections in the shop, Irish bag brand Zohara shoes to home interiors, mindfulness, bereavement, from the Giant’s Causeway. hardware, furniture, crafts, dementia, psychology, There is also a lovely toys, kitchenware, beauty business, environment, selection of Irish designed products, organic and health and lots of local authors. A gifts to bring home to friends food products, you’ll find whole shelf is dedicated to Ladies, be sure to stop and family such as Irish everything you are looking the classics and the poetry at The Changing Room linen and silk scarfs, Irish for and a few surprises as section is expanding all the on Barrack Street, which tweed throws or luxury well! time. You’ll even find a book offers great choice in quality scented candles and reed Calm and spacious Bantry on Chinese wallpaper! preloved and new clothing diffusers from the world’s Bookshop on William Street Stowaway Crafts & Toys and accessories. Whether oldest candle company, is a hub in the community is also located on William you’re shopping for a stylish Rathborne. for book lovers, book Street. This shop has new outfit or for an occasion, For fragrances, skincare or clubs, young people and a something for all members this is the perfect shop to sun products head straight resource for writers. of the family from Yankee browse in. You’re sure to to Coen’s Pharmacy on the There are secondhand as candles for Mum to the latest find something special at the Square. They stock a huge well as new books on sale toys for the kids – what right price. range of Clarins as well as and a special section for better way to keep them When in Rome…for lots of other brands and of older hardback titles offers entertained than a new Irish labels visit The Webb course they offer healthcare great value. puzzle or boardgame? The boutique on Main Street advice and emergency A dedicated children’s shop is filled with quirky and Bantry (also in Macroom). prescriptions if you are section has small chairs unusual gift ideas. This well laid out shop feeling under the weather on and tables, as well as an stocks well known fashion your trip. The Webb Bantry 027-51500 Macroom 026-42633

Stocking Irish labels such as Avoca, Caroline Kilkenny and Zohara handbags. Our emphasis is Customer Care. To make your shopping experience a happy one feel free to visit & browse. Stockists of Rathborne Candles

14 BANTRY ARTS & CRAFTS A place apart for arts and crafts

THE range of crafted produce not enough then you should From the mountains to the found throughout West Cork consider taking part in one of sea, Forest & Flock on is as varied as it is rich. Fine the many workshops and open New Street invites you to a ceramic art, delicate glasswork studios which run throughout the celebration of Irish craft and and exquisite jewellery and year and create your very own design. Visit Bernie and Maeve wood, turned or carved, sit masterpiece. whose passion for craft and alongside traditional crafts design – and love of their West such as sculpture, furniture, The Craft Shop on Glengarriff Cork surroundings – brought knitwear, textiles, pottery, Road in Bantry remains one them together to create this basketry, metalwork, lace of very few craft outlets that wonderful shop. A personal and and leatherwork. A rich seam exclusively stocks products passionate shopping experience of creativity and innovation, that are handmade in Ireland. in an engaging gallery space abundant local natural materials, It has a strong local flavour of sculpture, ceramics, art, a wealth of traditional skills with the best of West Cork Irish homeware and innovative and a singular creative vision crafts well-represented in the design. The perfect destination combine to form an intimate and form of ceramics, woodturning, for that Sunday spin and a enduring link between place and felt, leather bags and shoes, haven on a rainy day, this product. jewellery, baskets, knives, spacious shop interior is Whether you are looking for candles and metal work. With specially curated to showcase a unique keepsake, gift for a the quality and wide range of artistic impressions of the Wild loved one or stand out piece to beautiful crafts in Ireland, there Atlantic Way and is the place to GLENGARRIFF ROAD tie your home together, nothing is no need to look any further find that perfect gift or memento BANTRY|027 50003 encapsulates the creative then the Craft Shop. This is to bring home. spirit and sense of place that an excellent place to find that Follow ton Facebook and www.craftshopbantry.com sets West Cork apart like a unique piece to take home and Instagram @forestandflock. Monday to Saturday piece of local craftwork. And if enjoy. Open 7 Days. 10am - 6pm simply investing in a piece is

Celebrating Irish Makers New Street, Bantry Discover a shop full of Irish Craft & Design

Open 7 Days

T. +353 87 3861799 E. [email protected] forestandflock

15 BANTRY ACTIVITIES

GUIDED TOURS • KAYAKS • POWERBOATS • STAND UP PADDLE BOARDS Summer Camps • School Tours• Group Packages • Dolphin/Seal Watching & Fishing Trips available Railway Pier, Bantry | 083 888 1102 | www.bantrybayboathire.ie

The waters of Bantry Bay

BANTRY BAY is one of the when the Atlantic Challenge finest and safest harbours in contest of seamanship took Europe and is situated in a place with 16 countries strategic position on the edge participating. of the Atlantic Ocean. Being As a venue for water sports, very deep with few dangerous Bantry Bay has a lot to offer, with rocks or sand banks and many international sailing events sheltered from most winds by taking place in recent years. The the mountains surrounding it, Beach area in the harbour is one from earliest times fishermen of the best slalom windsurfing and merchant ships have used it venues in the country and the as a haven. national championships have On December 15, 1796 been held here on a number of Bantry became the destination occasions. of a French Fleet. 43 ships and With a colourful history and 15,000 men set sail from Brest from scenery to outdoor activity in support of the Irish patriot, Bantry Bay is second to none Wolfe Tone. Tone, a founder and is well worth taking time to member of the United Irishmen, explore. was determined to establish THE BANTRY BLUEWAY (see an Irish Republic by armed map) takes paddlers on a 2km, rebellion. One ship’s longboat 6km or 9km water trail around was left behind on Bere Island the picturesque Bantry Harbour and stored in Bantry house until and encompasses up to 7 the 1940’s, replicas of which are different points, starting at Abbey now used worldwide by Atlantic Slipway and taking in Whiddy Challenge international for Island before moving across to teaching traditional seamanship Reenbeg Point and back via abilities as paddlers can choose competitor!). The event is a test skills to young people. Railway Pier. from 3 trails that are designed of teamwork as well as individual In 2012, foreign sailors again The Bantry Blueway can for varying levels of experience skills – competitors need to graced the waters of the Bay be enjoyed by all ages and – beginners, intermediate and pair up after the run to bring advanced. double kayaks across Bantry For further information, see Bay and back to Bantry’s Abbey www.bantrybayport.com or www. Pier. Individuals and teams visitbantry.ie. of three are welcome to take part in an event that has been Bantry Bay Adventure a sellout hit in previous years. Why not sign up and support Race – August 31, 2019 three great charities; Bantry This unique challenge is a great Inshore Rescue Association, way to end a magical summer Bantry Special Olympics Team in Bantry. Run Whiddy Island, and The Jack & Jill Foundation, kayak Bantry Bay, and then as you immerse yourself in a cycle a stretch of the Sheep’s unique West Cork challenge? Head peninsula (splitting Register for the event on www. the legs if you’re a team bantrybayadventurerace.com. 16 BANTRY ACTIVITIES Adventures with Bantry Bay Boat Hire IMMERSE yourself in the You could also opt for Guinness. What a perfect natural beauty of Bantry Bay the one-way kayaking trip day out. Scheduled Seafood with Bantry Bay Boat Hire and to Whiddy Island, along the Tours are weekly or can be be part of the Wild Atlantic designated Bantry Blueway organised on a private basis Way adventure out on the marked kayaking route, then by contacting Bantry Bay Boat water! go explore the historical Hire. Explore these beautiful Whiddy Island on foot or Bantry Bay Boat Hire is waters on one of their guided hire a bike. Your kayaks will open weekends for March - tours or hire a kayak or stand- be collected by Bantry Bay September and daily for July up paddle board, or self-drive Boat Hire so you can enjoy and August. They also hold the easy-to-use powerboats, refreshments at the only pub including the world renowned children’s Summer Camps which require no experience. on the island, Bank House, Bantry Bay mussels and throughout July and August – Each boat trip is accompanied then return at your leisure for other points of interest in full details are available on the by a guide in a separate free on the ferry! Bantry Bay. The tour stops website. safety boat and you have the Or try the Seafood Tour, a off at Whiddy Island to enjoy Phone 083 888 1102 or visit option to purchase fishing unique experience exploring a sharing bowl of Bantry www.bantrybayboathire.ie. tackle to try and land your Bantry Bay, learning about Bay mussels with Irish very own catch of the day. the local fishing industries, brown bread and a glass of

Sail away for the day to an island haven TRULY an island paradise, or 9km water trail around artists and painters. Quiet good place for anglers. The Whiddy is a small haven of picturesque Bantry Harbour walks can be taken both by other is a tidal saltwater lake, peace and tranquility. and encompasses up to road and pasture, and along offering diversity for wildlife/ A small island, seven different points, it’s plentiful shores. As part bird enthusiasts. approximately three miles starting at Abbey Slipway of the Sheeps Head Way, There is an abundance of long by one-and-a-half and taking in Whiddy Island the 1.6km Whiddy Island historical sites and ruins to be miles wide, it is sheltered by (which has three separate Loop Walk is clearly marked. seen also, and of course all the beautiful mountains of landing/launch points) before Bicycles are also available for are welcome at Bank House the Beara peninsula to the moving across to Reenbeg hire to visitors. situated just by the pier. Open north and the Sheep’s Head Point and back via Railway The shoreline has much to 7 days, all day and serving peninsula to the south. Being Pier. The Bantry Blueway offer, with an abundance of fresh seafood, steaks, dinner just offshore from Bantry can be enjoyed by all ages rockpools and breathtaking and light lunches. There is town, access is easy, and the and abilities as paddlers can scenery. Fishing is also also a Kids Menu available. ferry crossing only a matter of choose from three trails that enjoyed here. There are two Eat inside or out in the fresh minutes. are designed for varying lakes on the island, close to air. Since last summer, levels of experience from one another but both very The inhabitants of Whiddy, kayakers have been making beginners, intermediate and different. One (freshwater) mostly devoted to fishing and their own way to Whiddy advanced. See map on this lake is the main source of farming, are warm-natured via the beautiful new Bantry page. the island’s water supply, has people who welcome both Blueway, which takes Whiddy’s natural beauty resident swans and other day-trippers and holiday- paddlers on a 2km, 6km means it is popular with waterbirds as well as being a makers alike. 17 BANTRY ACTIVITIES

Bantry’s Heritage Loop Béicín Loop © Claire Heardman THE HERITAGE LOOP takes along the southern side of walkers on a tour of many of Bantry Bay, passing the the heritage points of interest entrance to Bantry House, in and around the town. The the fishing pier and the walks vary from 2.5m to 5km Abbey graveyard, which has plus, but they can be linked monuments and memorials together to form a walk of erected to those who have more than 20km. Most of lost their lives at sea. Turning the walks use pavements, left after the Westlodge Hotel the northern side of Bantry Starting at the Peace Park, paths and small roads, so onto the Rope Walk Road, the Harbour, with its flocks of gulls which is a small formal garden are suitable for all the family. loop includes a short side trip and parties of mute swans. owned by Cork County For the more adventurous to the unique seventh century Passing the site of the former Council with a fledgling there is the possibility of Kilnaruane Pillar stone, which railway station, you reach community orchard planted striking out across the peak features a very early depiction the old railway pier. After the by Sustain West Cork, the of Knocknaveagh, which of a boat. The route can pier, a new promenade runs route heads out of town along provides stunning views be varied by taking a walk along the sea front, backed by the pavement. Along the way over the town and bay. The up through Bantry House’s banks of gorse (furze). Marine there is a plaque, which marks walks are complemented by a gardens and woodlands to animals to look out for include the site where a Priest´s horse series of interpretative boards reach the Rope Walk or by terns, which breed on nearby reputedly leapt from a pass erected by Bantry Tourism, wandering along a track Horse Island, and harbour above Coomhola 16km away. Failte Ireland and Cork County through the Westlodge Hotel seals. The walk loops back to At area where the two bridges Council. grounds, passing an intertidal the start point via the streets cross the Mealagh River, is pond. and back-roads of Bantry, Dún na mBarc or ´fort of the Abbey and Rope Walk Loop partially following the route of ships´ where the first people to Start point: Tourist Office, Béicín Loop the old railway which existed arrive in Ireland are thought to Bantry Square. Length: Start Point: Tourist Office, in Bantry until the 1960s. have landed. The walk loops 4km plus short side trip to Bantry Square. Length: 2.5km. back following part of the Kilnaruane Pillar stone. Climb: Climb: 30m. Difficulty: Easy Donemark Loop original Glengarriff road before Start Point: Peace Park. 50m. Difficulty: easy. Colour (pavements and paths). Colour the new bridge and road was Length: 2.5km. Climb: 15m. code: Blue code: Purple built in the late 1830s. The walk follows the pavement The walk passes St Brendan’s Difficulty: easy. Church and continues along Colour code: Green

Explore the natural world with Ireland’s first female botanist ELLEN Hutchins (1785–1815) homeplace in Bantry and she read by an actress. There are passes of Priests Leap was an early Irish botanist. had a major influence in the also extracts from the Journal and Healy Pass. The sites She was born in Ardnagashel, collection and line drawing of a Welsh botanist, Lewis include some of her favourite Ballylickey, where her family of seaweeds. Her rare finds Dillwyn, who visited Ellen at places for plant hunting – the had a small estate at the head included lichens, and three Ballylickey and was delighted beach under Blue Hill by of Bantry Bay. Her father was species are called after her: with the seaweeds and shells the airstrip, Whiddy Island, a magistrate and died when Lecania hutchinsiae; of Bantry Bay. Coomhola Bridge with the she was two years old, leaving Pertusaria hutchinsiae; The stops on the Trail range Coorycommane Loop Walk a wife and six children. Enterographa hutchinsiae. from Ellen’s unmarked grave and Glengarriff Woods – as Ellen moved to Dublin The Ellen Hutchins Heritage and commemorative plaque well as her birthplace and and was looked after by Dr. Trail, with free leaflet, audio in Garryvurcha churchyard, home at Ballylickey. Whitley Stokes, a medical guide, and website, invites Bantry to the high mountain Funded by the Heritage doctor and naturalist. She you to explore the plants, Council and the Fisheries befriended Scot James seaweeds and landscape Local Action Group South, the Townsend Mackay (1775– of Bantry Bay through the Trail was developed by the 1862), a curator at the Botanic story of Ireland’s first female Ellen Hutchins Festival and Garden of Trinity College. botanist, by visiting nine sites the audio guide was created His influence helped her in significant to Ellen’s plant in association with Abarta the classification of plants hunting and her life. At each Heritage. she was collecting and Ellen site there is information about The 2019 Ellen Hutchins contributed to his Flora place, plants and an aspect of Festival takes place from Hibernica. Ellen was an avid Ellen’s story. The audio guide 17 to 25 August. See www. collector of cryptogamic for use with smart phones has ellenhutchins.com for more species, and their pictorial tracks for each place, and on the Heritage Trail and the representations. these start with an extract Festival. She collected around her from one of Ellen’s letters

18 SHEEP’S HEAD PENINSULA

The Sheep’s Head Peninsula is the middle of the three level rose between 4000 – 7000 years ago. The rounded peninsulas in the south-west of County Cork and is part hills (drumlins) are the evidence of glaciation, leaving of the Wild Atlantic Way. It must be the least visited part fertile sheep pastures dominated by a spine of low hills. of Cork and this contributes to the wonderful presence of The highest point on the peninsula is Seefin Hill at 345 m. such a unique place. The narrow finger of land is part of At its best in 1844, the peninsula had a population 8,340 the Old Red Sandstone system when the mountainous but now has just 1,300 residents. coastal region was split into several peninsulas as the sea

Durrus Durrus Festival is held Head Way criss-crosses The very pleasant village of in July each year and through the village. Durrus is located at the head includes sport, family and Kilcrohane of Dunmanus Bay where the entertainment events. Kilcrohane village lies under Sheep’s Head and Mizen the ‘Shadow of Seefin’ – the Head Peninsulas meet. Ahakista area’s highest mountain and The village of Ahakista is overlooking Dunmanus Bay. located midway along the Kilcrohane is renowned for coast road between Durrus its beautiful coastline and and Kilcrohane on the idyllic views and is a lively Sheep’s Head peninsula. It and vibrant seaside village is a wooded coastal village whose population swells in with a deep and sheltered the busy summer months. harbour. The harbour is Kilcrohane takes its Durrus is the location of home to both fishing boats name from the Church of Cool na Long castle, built and pleasure craft and the St. Crohan founded in the by the McCarthy (Muclagh) Ahakista Regatta is usually 8th century. Little is known family, which is now in a held every August bank about Crochan except that ruined state. A number of holiday weekend. There is he is believed to have lived Neolithic (3500-1500 BC) a small sandy beach, and about the time of St. Patrick monuments in the area the 90 km of marked trail (mid 5th century). There is a at Coolcoulagha and at comprising the Sheep’s ruined church in the grounds Dunmanus indicate of the cemetery, thought to that a significant be where Crohan built his pre-Celtic cell. population existed.

www.thesheepsheadway.ie

19 SHEEP’S HEAD PENINSULA

ARTIST Annabel Langrish and her husband Klaus moved to Ahakista on the Sheep’s Head The ‘Airport Beach’ towards have good views across beautiful Sheepshead Bantry is a famous dogfish Dunmanus Bay. Go through peninsula 13 years ago. activities and ray location. From both the village of Kilcrohane Drawn by the sea and The Sheep’s Head was the rocks and Dunoon pier and watch out for a left turn sunshine, they have awarded the title of you will be able to spot sea signposted for the Pier. created a very special European Destination of urchins and large star fish. A few kilometres past place at the newly Excellence – Tourism and There are also plenty of Kilcrohane is another pier, refurbished Heron Gallery Protected Areas in 2009. places to charter a boat if this time at Ruaim Harbour. and Gardens. Visitors can This competition was deep sea angling is more Here the water is choppier browse the collection of designed for destinations your style. as the harbour is less well Annabel’s vibrant originals, that have developed protected. Access to the prints, cushions and raku the tourism potential of Beaches water is via the stone steps ceramics, enjoy a delicious their protected areas in a and the water is lovely and Near Durrus are the lunch in the wholefood sustainable manner. clear. Travel a few kilometres spectacular golden sands café, wander around The Sheep’s Head Peninsula beyond Kilcrohane and of Barley Cove. This is a the beautiful fl ower and offers a long distance watch out for a left turn fantastic beach with good vegetable gardens, visit walking route including signposted for Ruaim. surf in the right conditions. the pet kunekune pigs, the Sheep’s Head Way, If you want to get away In the summer months and enjoy the sea views – which traverses a number from it all then Trà Cluais - the beach is manned by an inspiring and creative of protected areas such as Gortnakilla Pier might be the lifeguards and whilst it can destination where you Special Protection Areas, place for you. Located on get reasonably busy, it is will always get a great which are protected for the far side of the peninsula never packed. welcome. birdlife. It also has a wealth to Durrus and Kilcrohane, Another great beach is the During the summer the of wildlife habitats many Gortnakilla is quite remote. one at Ballyrisode. This is a café hosts exhibitions and of which are protected as This is a narrow inlet much more family friendly a series of free afternoon candidate Special Areas of harbour, with steps and a beach as it’s shallow and music events. Open from Conservation, and offers slipway giving access to the more enclosed. There is also April to the end of August visitors loop walks, coastal, harbour. From Durrus head a small beach in Ahakista, 10.30am to 5.30pm. If hill top, cliff side and river towards the village of ­­. After again very family friendly you are travelling around walks. There is also easy the village watch out for a and easily accessible. There West Cork and Kerry, access to the Beara Way right turn signposted for the are lots of little bays and there are 3 more own and the Drimoleague harbour. inlets around the area and brand Annabel Langrish Heritage Walks. no doubt you may find one shops, in Clonakilty , Playgrounds Schull and Kenmare . The that is your own little secret. shops showcase mainly Fishing The peninsula has two Annabel’s work with a The area offers a great Sheep’s Head is filled with great public playgrounds: few surprises by different diversity of fishing from the small attractive harbours, Kilcrohane Community artists in each one. many convenient rocks and where you can swim from playground and tennis piers along the bay – Durrus the piers: court. located just west www.annabellangrish.ie pier (grey mullet), Kilcrohane Just outside the village of the village and Durrus www.herongallery.ie pier (pollock and wrasse) of Kilcrohane is a small, community playground, and Dunoon pier (pollock, sheltered harbour. The water located at the Durrus wrasse, mackerel, ling and here is clear and of good community field on the road the much prized sea bass). depth. As you swim you will toward the Mizen peninsula.

20 SHEEP’S HEAD PENINSULA

DUNBEACON POTTERY connection with the ever- jugs, mugs, butter dishes is a collection of functional changing energy of the and many other unique gift pottery combining quality Atlantic Ocean. Discovering items. in craftsmanship with traces of ancient Irish Located three miles inspirational and modern woodlands in the immediate from the village of Durrus designs. Every single piece area inspired the Woodland in the direction of Goleen, of Dunbeacon Pottery is Collection. Helen’s pottery Dunbeacon Pottery handmade and finished to is styled and decorated by welcomes visitors to come the highest standard. hand with a range of natural and browse the showroom Potter Helen Ennis forms and glazes. and watch the making draws inspiration from the Dunbeacon’s Collections process. The showroom is surrounding landscape and have evolved from simple open throughout the summer creates pieces that perfectly natural shapes to a 10am - 5pm Monday to capture the essence comprehensive array of Saturday. A visit to Ireland’s of Ireland’s southwest shapes and patterns that fit most south-western pottery coastal region. The Ocean into every home, offering a is a must when touring West Collection evolved from her wide range of bowls, vases, Cork!

The Old Creamery Complex in Kilcrohane WHEN Drinagh Co- well worth a visit to browse of salads, paninis, soups and riverside terrace is a must- Op closed the doors of and pick up local produce. home baking while at night visit on a sunny summer day. Kilcrohane Creamery in O’Donovan Motors, the dining room transforms Reservations and further 2006 and the For Sale sign which is also located on into a relaxed location for information about opening went up, it was the end of the site, is the agent for dinner. It is also a popular hours is available from 027 an era. Many locals feared the international car hire destination for Sunday lunch 67139. that it would become another company, Eurocar. It is one throughout the year. The site for holiday homes. This of the few locations in West was not the case and the Cork where visitors can avail Old Creamery complex took of car hire service. on a new lease of life and The Old Creamery is now a hub of activity in Café & Restaurant, which Kilcrohane on the beautiful opened in 2014, has built Sheeps Head Peninsula. up an excellent reputation This is the home of the for high quality freshly Sheeps Head Producers’ prepared food in a relaxed Market which showcases and warm atmosphere. locally produced food, The family run restaurant, crafts, plants and art work. which is open from March to The Market Shop, run by December each year has a volunteers, is open daily varied menu. During the day throughout the year and is visitors can avail of a range

Ahakista Air India Plane Disaster Memorial

At Ahakista, between Durrus and Kilcrohane, there is a memorial garden and sundial in memory of the 329 victims of the Air India disaster. The aircraft crashed off the Cork coast in 1985. The sundial is by Cork sculptor Ken Thompson and was donated by the people of Canada, India and Ireland. 21 SHEEP’S HEAD PENINSULA Walking in Ahakista There are numerous loop walks on Sheep’s Head. Here are just a few to begin with. See www.explorewestcork.ie for more. Barán Loop Seefin Loop roadway for almost 2km. Head Way) for more than Distance: 9km Distance: 13km Here the Barán Loop (green 7km along the ridge to pass Grade: Moderate-Hard Grade; Hard arrows) rejoins from the left. Glanlough Lake and join a Continue straight. surfaced roadway. After 500m Starting Point: The trailhead Starting Point: F-A. Joining a surfaced you reach a T-junction where is located at Arundel’s Public A-B. With your back to roadway follow the blue, green both routes turn right, and House on the right entering Arundel’s Pub in Ahakista, and yellow arrows for over another 500m takes you past Ahakista village. turn right and follow the blue 1km before the Sheeps Head a farmhouse on your left after A-B. With your back to (and green and purple) arrows Way turns left at a memorial to which the Sheeps Head Way Arundel’s Pub, turn right and along the road for just 100m Tom Whitty. Continue straight turns left – but you continue follow green (and blue and to the road junction where here and shortly afterwards straight, staying on the purple) arrows along the road you turn right and, almost join the main road for the surfaced road. for just 100 metres to the road immediately, turn left onto a peninsula. Continue straight D-E. After only 300m you turn junction where you turn right minor roadway. The green at the junction, pass ‘the pub left at a road junction, walk and, almost immediately, turn and purple arrows are for the with the tin roof’ on your right for 500m and again join the left onto a minor roadway. (shorter) Seefin and (longer) and reach the 3-way junction Sheeps Head Way as you turn The blue and purple arrows Glanlough loops. Continue at A above. Turn right here right onto a bog road. are for the longer Seefin and to follow this roadway to – it’s only 100m back to the E-A. The loop now starts the Glanlough loops. Continue Gorteanish – taking note that trailhead. descent towards the trailhead to follow this roadway to you overlap with the long- – a 6km journey which passes Gorteanish, taking note that distance Sheep’s Head Way Barán Loop through the townlands of you overlap with the long (yellow arrows and walking Kealties and Tullig. distance Sheep’s Head Way man) on the way. At a junction Distance: 20km (yellow arrows and walking of laneways in Gorteanish the Grade: Hard man) on the way. At a junction Glanlough Loop continues Starting Point: The trailhead Lighthouse Loop of laneways in Gorteanish the straight – you turn left and is located at Arundel’s Public Distance: 4km Glanlough Loop continues cross a stone stile – following House on the right entering Grade: Moderate straight, you turn left and the blue (and green) arrows. the village od Ahakista. Starting Point: Turning point cross a stone stile, following B-C. Now the loop starts the A-B. With your back to car park near the end of the green (and blue) arrows. ascent of Ardanenig – easy Arundel’s Pub, turn right and Sheep’s Head. B-C. Now the loop starts the along an old laneway at follow the purple (and green Route: The route starts from ascent of Ardanenig, easy first and then a fairly steep and blue) arrows along the the carpark and continues along an old laneway at first climb on a mountain track for road for just 100m to the road along the road. The track and then a fairly steep climb 400m to reach a point near junction where you turn right the route follows reduces to on a mountain track for 400 Rosskerrig Mountain where and, almost immediately, turn a narrow path leading down metres to reach a point near the Barán Loop turns left – but left onto a minor roadway. The to the tip of Sheep’s Head to Rosskerrig Mountain where you turn right. green and blue arrows are for reach the tiny lighthouse. the Seefin Loop turns right, C-D. Continue to follow the the shorter Barán and Seefin Leaving the lighthouse behind but where you turn left. blue arrows as the loop loops. Continue to follow turn northeast and continue C-D. Continue to follow the travels north for 500m and this roadway to Gorteanish – along a narrow valley between green arrows as the loop then swings west (left) onto a taking note that you overlap ridges of rock. The route crosses Rosskerrig Mountain ridge. Follow the ridge for over with the long-distance Sheep’s comes quite close to dramatic and descends to join the 1km to reach a trig stone atop Head Way (yellow arrows cliffs at times now, dropping Sheeps Head Way on an old Seefin Mountain (318m). and walking man) on the way. down to seething surf. Soon roadway where you turn left. D-E. Just before the trig At a junction of laneways in after sighting the low pyramid D-A. Now you follow green stone the loop turns sharp left Gorteanish the Barán Loop of Caher Mountain 7 km arrows (for this loop) and and descends sharply to the and Seefin Loop turn left and ahead, the route turns right yellow arrows (for the Sheeps townland of Derrucluvane. cross a stone stile – but you and away from the cliffs. The Head Way) along a surfaced Joining a farm roadway continue straight following the narrow interior of the head roadway for over 1 kilometre turn right, pass through a purple arrow. is crossed through a strange before the Sheeps Head Way farmyard, and watch for a stile B-C. Follow the laneway for old landscape of little-used turns left at a memorial to on your left which takes you 500m to reach a surfaced farmland with ferntopped Tom Whitty. Continue straight into farmland. Descending still road where you turn right. stone walls dividing fields here and shortly afterwards the loop follows what was on After another 500m watch of bracken. Cattle graze the join the main road for the old ‘mass path’ to eventually out as the loop turns left on grass around the ruins of a peninsula. Continue straight reach an old roadway where a right bend. From here the stone cottage that overlooks at the junction, pass the pub you turn left and rejoin the loop ascends onto a ridge at the fields. Past this ruin the with the tin roof on your right Sheeps Head Way. Doonour where it rejoins the route reaches an old track, and reach the 3 way junction E-F. Now you follow blue Sheeps Head Way. Turn right. which takes it back to the at A above. Turn right here, it’s arrows (for this loop) and C-D. Now follow the purple starting point. only 100 metres back to the yellow arrows (for the Sheeps arrows (for this loop) and trailhead. Head Way) along the old yellow arrows (for the Sheeps 22 MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA The most south-westerly point in Ireland Ballydehob To enter a different world, just break your journey at the southwest hingepoint of the N71 and stop at Ballydehob, a charming gateway to the Mizen peninsula. From the east the village suddenly appears snuggled in the embrace of Mount Gabriel, the colourful gables reflecting the morning sun. Ballydehob is a microcosm Before entering the village of Irish local history, and you will see a children’s legends and folklore abound playground on the left, in the locality. At the dawn of area. Kilcoe Castle, near of open sea and the air is shadowed by the elegant the Bronze Age (2200-600 Ballydehob, is probably West marvellously clear and clean. old railway viaduct with its B.C.), copper was mined on Cork’s best preserved castle, The safe and sheltered 12 arches. Opposite you will Mount Gabriel, just west of which has in recent years harbour is home to many find tennis and basketball the village. About the same been extensively restored by waterborne activities. Schull courts. From the walkway time stone circles, wedge the actor Jeremy Irons. has a busy fishing fleet and over the viaduct the estuary and boulder tombs were a modern fish processing seems filled with waders and constructed in the area. plant. Ferry trips to Cape wildfowl on the ebb tide. The Celts arrived at Clear and Sherkin leave the Many charming walks some later time and in pier daily throughout the and cycle routes touch the the early historic period Schull summer. coastline in this area offering various clans fought for The largest village on the There is a thriving local stunning views of the islands dominance, until the peninsula is Schull. Set in diving club and visiting divers and the distant Fastnet Rock eventual emergence of the the centre of an area of may join them for a dive. Sea Lighthouse. In the waters McCarthys and O’Mahonys outstanding natural beauty, angling trips can be arranged beyond there is good fishing as the rulers of the region. the village is one of the on the various private from charters boats, with a A string of castles along the loveliest in West Cork. The motorboats operating out of large variety of fish including coastline bear testament prevailing southwesterly the harbour. There is also several types of shark being to their strength, and to the winds come over more canoeing, with tuition and caught. strategic importance of this than two thousand miles rental of canoes available In the village there is a public monument to Ballydehob’s most famous → son – world wrestling To Bantry champion Danno O’Mahony, who wrestled in Madison Square Gardens in the 1930s. Descendants of his family still live in the area and are very willing to regale → you with anecdotes if you come across them. The village has a To Skibbereen reputation of nurturing the Arts and is home to musicians, writers, artists, sculptors and craft workers in a variety of media. From many of the bars, the strains of traditional folk music can be heard at evening time. Several music festivals are dotted through the year. 23 MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA throughout the summer Don’t miss in Schull... Schull Harbour is the An essential stop in Schull home of an active sailing village is Pebbles, a shop club, which organises that boasts a loyal clientele weekend races for both of Cork and Dublin’s chicest cruisers and dinghies women! Stella travels around throughout the summer. Ireland and Europe to source Visiting yachtsmen are exclusive labels for her shop invited to take part in all and it is an Aladdin’s cave of events, including the Schull casual clothing, chic linens, Harbour Regatta, which • Ceramics • Jewellery • Cards • Candles • Pottery • Artwork fine Irish knitwear and much is now the high spot of a • Knitwear • Leather • Seasalt • Prints • Weird Fish more. Plan to spend plenty week of active racing in and Main Street, Schull 028 28209 of time happily browsing. beyond the harbour. This Become a jewellery week of racing is known magpie at Enibas, a as Calves Week and has beautiful shop that is become a major event in home to designer Sabine the Irish racing calendar, Lenz. Sabine’s designs attracting many boats and are inspired by the Irish crews who participate in the language, people and week’s racing. The Fastnet heritage and feature International School’s meaningful engravings. Regatta is an annual event Some famous recipients held in July for young sailors of Enibas’s ‘Croí álainn’ from all over Europe and the braclets are Barack Obama’s world. daughters; these were gifted There is also tennis, pony by our Taoiseach on an trekking, a planetarium, official US state visit. fine restaurants, quality Courtyard Crafts has accommodation, a boatyard been championing high- and a weekly Country quality crafts in this well- Market. Schull also has a producers including Gubeen picnics, Cadogan’s Strand stocked shop for over great selection on shops Farmhouse, Schull market is maintained by a devoted 30 years, supporting the and boutiques to spend an attracts a wide range of group of locals. exceedingly vibrant, and afternoon pottering around. traders and visitors alike. Schull Planetarium, part ever-burgeoning, Irish craft A focal point of the village This market is a real Sunday of the local Community industry. While Irish crafts is Cadogan Strand or Trá treat. Once the Sunday College, is the only form the cornerstone of na Oileáin, which was Mass bell tolls the market Planetarium in the Republic the range, it also carries a transformed by celebrity is suddenly swamped of Ireland and provides a selection of eye-catching gardener Diarmuid Gavin, with tourists and locals unique educational resource. crafts from the four corners gold medallist at Chelsea alike. Local crafts, hot The 70 seat Planetarium has of the world as well as Weird Flower Show, from a rough food, breads, organic veg, a beautiful situation beside Fish lifestyle clothing. The piece of land overlooking cakes and picnic basket the harbour and in the graceful pottery of Stephen the beach to a contemporary fillers make up some of the shadow of Mount Gabriel. Pearce is a must see. garden space. Ideal for Established by the local selection fare here. The Since the 1980s Hackett’s market operates from 9am – has been a community bar 2.30pm. with a great buzz about it, renowned for its friendly staff and relaxed environment with lots of conversation, chat and a welcome for everyone. The bar has a year-round programme of live music – all kinds – and the now well-established Sunday acoustic sessions run from 5pm every week. It’s famous for its soups and Guinness stew too! Grove House has been run as a business since 24 MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA

BEYOND FASHION

1890. This historic building is of huge importance for Along the Mizen the history of Schull and Travelling west from Schull the Mizen Peninsula. It you drive along the bog has previously hosted road built originally in the distinguished guests such eighteenth century to carry as George Bernard Shaw, butter to Cork for export to Jack B Yeats and Edith the new colonies. Somerville. In keeping with As you approach SCHULL | WEST CORK that history, it continues TOORMORE on your left you as an artistic hub today will see the Altar Dolmen, 028 28165 / 086 2097887 with regular music recitals, a Neolithic tomb. On the A carefully curated selection of beautiful clothing artwork and writers’ retreat, right just after that is The from around the world, including fabulous Irish as well as a restaurant. You Altar Church built during knitwear for men & women. the Famine as relief work. can view the night’s menu Pop in and browse..there’s so much to see! by popping into Anna B’s In the grounds of the Altar bookshop in Schull, which is Restaurant a recent find also run by owner Katrina. was a Wedge Tomb from the Bronze Age. ‘Goilín’, ‘little inlet’. Although Roaring Water Continue on through the the harbour dries at low tide, Wholefoods has been town lands of Kealfadda, giving great feeding for a catering to the health and Ballyrisode and Ballydevlin variety of wildlife including wellbeing needs of Schull until you reach GOLEEN. a fox and a pheasant, there and beyond for over 12 This village was built during is a deepwater quay at the years – stocking everything the nineteenth century at a entrance to accommodate from local vegetables and crossroads where a cattle fishing boats and yachts. fruit to chilled and frozen fair was held. You will see CROOKHAVEN is as food to supplements to that the street is very wide picturesque as it is useful, ethical cleaning products and and all the houses were being a large sheltered toiletries. Call in to browse originally built as shops. harbour. You pass the old through their lovely range There is a hidden harbour Roadstone Quarry on the Roaring Water of cards with local scenes, at Heron’s Cove, down to side of the mountain, which perfect to send good wishes the left in the village, which provided metalling for the Wholefoods home. gives the village its name roads of Wales until 1945. 47 Main Street, Schull There are numerous Bronze 028 27834 Barleycove Age field monuments in the hills around Crookhaven. The village of Crookhaven has a Organic & local distinguished history as the seasonal veg last port of call for ships going to and from America. Over Wholefoods the centuries ships stocked up with provisions here Chilled & frozen food before tackling the Atlantic Range of supplements, Ocean. eco toiletries On your way back to & cleaning products Barleycove, you can take the road up to BROW HEAD 25 MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA

the Beara Peninsula and As soon as fog was seen the mountains of Kerry. another man was called up to Looking down to the sea work the fog-signal. you pass Dhurode Copper You can take a Fastnet Mine with the round stone Rock Tour and hear its built Explosives Magazine. fascinating history from All along the road you will Schull with Cape Clear see signs of the mines. You Ferries. www.fastnettour.com reach Dunmanus Castle, an O’Mahony stronghold from the 13th. Century, beside the Fastnet Trails little harbour. A short drive There are a number of from there takes you back lovely loop walks under the onto the Durrus/Bantry road. masthead of Fastnet Trials, all starting in Schull village car park. Maps can be found The Fastnet locally if you prefer a visual from Galleycove beach. Areas of Conservation. The The Fastnet Lighthouse, aid. Dogs are allowed if kept Looking back east from the road goes to the east of the southwest of Mizen Head, on leads. Good walking top of Brow Head you can beach across a causeway is known as The Teardrop shoes, a rain jacket, water see Roaringwater Bay, Cape bisecting Lissagriffin Lakes of Ireland, the last sight of and a mobile phone are Clear and some of Carbery’s and at the T-junction you turn Ireland for emigrants sailing recommended. Please ‘leave Hundred Isles. The Signal left to Mizen Head (see box). to America. The Fastnet no trace’ and bring your Tower was part of a chain Another gem of the Rock is two pinnacles of rubbish home with you! built in 1804 in fear of a Mizen Peninsula is THREE hard clay shale with veins of French invasion to give fast CASTLE HEAD where the quartz rising to a height of Derreennatra Loop Walk communications all round the Three Castles, which are 30m above low-water mark This walking trail crosses coast. The original signalling three Tower Houses with, surrounded by deep water. private land along the was done with a system curtain walling. Built in the The diameter of the base of historical Butter Road for of flags and blackballs 15th Century on the site of a the tower to 52 feet and the 3km, and then quiet country on masts. Brow Head or Bronze Age Promontory Fort, entrance floor is at a height of roads. From the mapboard, Mallavogue was a vibrant the Castles stand sentinel 57.75 feet above high water. follow the pink arrows east mining area in the nineteenth beside a clifftop lake. Access Above the entrance floor the towards Ballydehob. The century and you can still see is restricted at the moment masonry of the tower extends route then turns south (or the remains of the mines and because of the unstable state to a height of 88 feet. It is right) and follows very quiet the miners’ houses. of the castles, but it is worth divided into seven rooms with roads back to Schull. Walk BARLEYCOVE is a large asking if it is possible to visit. granite floors. straight ahead at the first sandy beach backed by Continuing the journey There were six keepers crossroads and straight past sand dunes. The sand dunes round the Mizen Ring, you at the Fastnet Rock – four the old quays on the left. were thrown up in the tidal take the road back towards at a time and two on leave. There are a few lefts and wave that swept Europe after Goleen and turn left onto the Reliefs were twice a month rights – follow the pink arrows the earthquake in Lisbon in Coast Road by Lissagriffin when two men were taken along this route. Take care 1755. Today they have been Lakes. As you wind up the off. Each man did four weeks as the route exits back to partially eroded but they road the view to the north on two weeks off. One man the N592 and back on the are protected like much of suddenly opens up to show had to stay on watch during footpath to Schull. the coast round this area as DUNMANUS BAY, Sheep’s daytime to look out for fog Distance 12.5km European designated Special Head and in the distance and to signal passing ships. Est time: 3 hrs

26 MIZEN HEAD PENINSULA

Gubbeen Loop Walk walking along the coast walk, This walk is along quiet past the pier and sailing country roads and takes in school. Walk out past the the views – so there are a graveyard, turn right for few hills. From the mapboard, Schull and immediately left. walk west up through the After 300m turn left and after village following the green a further 500m you can take arrows. At the Y junction at the option to Sailor’s Hill – the end of the village (after this 600m spur takes you to Copperpoint) take the left a great viewing point. After for Gubbeen and walk west the breathtaking views of straight for about 2.5km. At a the islands, return the 600m 5 road cross, turn sharp left and turn left to re-join the and walk along the shoreline loop walk. After less than for 600m before turning left 1km there is an option to inland. Walk about 1km and turn left and walk to Colla turn right to walk towards Pier (1.2km) down the ‘Coffin Colla Pier, and straight on to Road’. Alternatively follow the graveyard on Colla Road. the blue arrows to the right Turn right here and return to and left, and left again to Schull via the coast walk past Colla Pier (2.2km). The route the pier and back to the car here is straight back to the park. Distance 9.5km graveyard, turning right and Est time: 2 hrs returning to Schull via the coast walk. Colla Loop Walk Distance 8.8km (incl Sailor’s This walking trail crosses Hill) Est time: 2 hrs private land and quiet country roads. From the mapboard Derryconnell Loop Walk follow the blue arrows and This walking trail crosses walk through the car park, private land along the

A must see.....

THE MIZEN Peninsula, at Ireland’s most south- historical Butter Road for Butter Road itself, a 17th westerly point, is worldwide 3km, and then quiet country century road, stretches for renowned for the beauty roads. From the mapboard about 3km. Continue to follow of its rugged landscape follow the purple arrows the arrows to Ballydehob and ancient heritage. A east towards Ballydehob. along quiet country roads. tour of the Mizen Ring The route then turns north From Ballydehob you have gives you the chance to (left) and crosses the N592, the option to double your immerse yourself in the and up very quiet roads to efforts and return to Schull! various strands that make Derryconnell. Follow the Distance 10km one way the Mizen unique. From purple arrows along this Est time: 2.5hrs one way geology, flora, birds and route, keeping left at all fauna to the influence of major road junctions, passing Toormore Loop Walk Toormore is located 10km man and his history on the historical monuments and from Schull on the main landscape. the ruins of the workhouse road to Goleen. This walk An award-winning along the way. Take care as the route exits for 200m along starts and finishes at the old maritime museum and the N592 before turning right Toormore Church, where a heritage attraction, the onto quiet winding lanes back mapboard is located on the Mizen Head Visitor Centre, onto the footpath and back to right as you travel towards an authentic all-weather Schull. Distance 10.5km Goleen. This short easy experience, is a must-see Est time: 2.5 - 3 hrs walking trail uses quiet with its spectacular location country roads and private on high cliffs with swirling The Old Butter Road Walk land – just follow the orange Atlantic Ocean tides. From the mapboard follow arrows. Distance 2km Travel west from Schull the dark yellow arrows east Est time: 30mins to get to Mizen. towards Ballydehob. The Old 27 11 12 13 15 Kenmare 17 16 16 Garra Fado Garden Marianne Klopp The Beara Gallery Cloonee Lake House Plants Produce Workshops Ceramic Studio and Shop Fine art, materials, prints and Boats and fly fishing Open Wed to Sat, other days by Open every day crafts. April to Oct Pub Food Accommodation 17 appointment Tel. 086 0891985 Open Mon to Fri 11am to 6pm Open every day Tel. 085 8631497 or 027 74844 Other times please contact Tel. 064 6684205 FaceBook garrafado Tel. 083 1292571 www.thebearagallery.com 16. Mill Cove Gallery Open all year in Kenmare 15 Tel. 087 2964675 Derreen Garden www.millcovegallery.com 14 Open 10 am to 6pm all year round 9 10 Café open April to September Carnegie Arts Centre Tel. 083 1662160 R571 A cultural centre for performing www.derreengarden.com and visual arts Events and ticket sales available from our website Tel. 064 6648701 14 Lauragh www.carnegieartskenmare.ie Anam Cara 13 Allihies Copper Mine Writer's and Artist's Retreat Glengarriff Museum & Copper Café Tel. 027 74441 to book a visit, Open Easter to October a retreat or a workshop 12 10am to 5pm www.anamcararetreat.com Ardgroom Tel. 027 73218 Healy Pass 1 www.acmm.ie

R572 Adrigole Eyeries 8 Lehanmore 1 Community Centre 10 11 Adrigole Arts Cable Car Café R571 Craft Shop Gallery Coffee Room Open every day 10am to 6pm Café open Easter to October R575 Tues to Sat 11am to 4pm 3 2 Tel. 027 60234 Gift Shop Bar 6 www.hungryhillgallery.com Tel. 027 73911 9 Castletownbere 4 www.lehanmore.com 5 Allihies 3 2 Bere Island 7 4 Dursey Island 8 5 Mill Cove House Berehaven Lodge Contemporary Art and Studio Restaurant June to September Ocean Side Restaurant and Bar Open 7 days 7 Open only by appointment Sarah Walker Gallery 11am to 6pm Lunch 12 to 5pm, Dinner 5 to 9pm 6 The Tea Room Café Open every day April to Tel. 027 70393 or 087 2964675 Booking advisable Brunch and Lunch September 11am to 6pm www.millcovegallery.com Coaches Welcome Tues to Sat 10am to 5pm Other times, call to check Tel. 027 71306 Sunday 12pm to 5pm Tel. 027 70387 www.berehavenlodge.com Tel. 086 173 2606 The Beara Coast Hotel www.sarahwalkergallery.com www.theoldmedicalhall.com/ 4 Star sea front boutique hotel Dzogchen Beara thetearoom Serving food daily Mon to Sat 7.30am Meditation Retreat Centre to 9pm, Sun 7.30am till 8.30pm. Daily meditation Café Booking advised. Beara Peninsula Accommodation Tel. 027 71446 Tel. 027 73032 www.bearacoast.com www.dzogchenbeara.org A Grand Day Out 2019 28 11 12 13 15 Kenmare 17 16 16 Garra Fado Garden Marianne Klopp The Beara Gallery Cloonee Lake House Plants Produce Workshops Ceramic Studio and Shop Fine art, materials, prints and Boats and fly fishing Open Wed to Sat, other days by Open every day crafts. April to Oct Pub Food Accommodation 17 appointment Tel. 086 0891985 Open Mon to Fri 11am to 6pm Open every day Tel. 085 8631497 or 027 74844 Other times please contact Tel. 064 6684205 FaceBook garrafado Tel. 083 1292571 www.thebearagallery.com 16. Mill Cove Gallery Open all year in Kenmare 15 Tel. 087 2964675 Derreen Garden www.millcovegallery.com 14 Open 10 am to 6pm all year round 9 10 Café open April to September Carnegie Arts Centre Tel. 083 1662160 R571 A cultural centre for performing www.derreengarden.com and visual arts Events and ticket sales available from our website Tel. 064 6648701 14 Lauragh www.carnegieartskenmare.ie Anam Cara 13 Allihies Copper Mine Writer's and Artist's Retreat Glengarriff Museum & Copper Café Tel. 027 74441 to book a visit, Open Easter to October a retreat or a workshop 12 10am to 5pm www.anamcararetreat.com Ardgroom Tel. 027 73218 Healy Pass 1 www.acmm.ie

R572 Adrigole Eyeries 8 Lehanmore 1 Community Centre 10 11 Adrigole Arts Cable Car Café R571 Craft Shop Gallery Coffee Room Open every day 10am to 6pm Café open Easter to October R575 Tues to Sat 11am to 4pm 3 2 Tel. 027 60234 Gift Shop Bar 6 www.hungryhillgallery.com Tel. 027 73911 9 Castletownbere 4 www.lehanmore.com 5 Allihies 3 2 Bere Island 7 4 Dursey Island 8 5 Mill Cove House Berehaven Lodge Contemporary Art and Studio Restaurant June to September Ocean Side Restaurant and Bar Open 7 days 7 Open only by appointment Sarah Walker Gallery 11am to 6pm Lunch 12 to 5pm, Dinner 5 to 9pm 6 The Tea Room Café Open every day April to Tel. 027 70393 or 087 2964675 Booking advisable Brunch and Lunch September 11am to 6pm www.millcovegallery.com Coaches Welcome Tues to Sat 10am to 5pm Other times, call to check Tel. 027 71306 Sunday 12pm to 5pm Tel. 027 70387 www.berehavenlodge.com Tel. 086 173 2606 The Beara Coast Hotel www.sarahwalkergallery.com www.theoldmedicalhall.com/ 4 Star sea front boutique hotel Dzogchen Beara thetearoom Serving food daily Mon to Sat 7.30am Meditation Retreat Centre to 9pm, Sun 7.30am till 8.30pm. Daily meditation Café Booking advised. Beara Peninsula Accommodation Tel. 027 71446 Tel. 027 73032 www.bearacoast.com www.dzogchenbeara.org A Grand29 Day Out 2019 WEST CORK ANNUAL EVENTS / FESTIVALS

Whatever time of the year you visit West Cork, there JULY traditonal music. is always something going on! Listed below are some westcorkmusic.ie. West Cork Literary of the festivals that take place in Beara, Sheeps Festival, Bantry Ellen Hutchins Festival Head & Mizen annually. For full details of events and westcorkliteraryfestival.ie. Celebrating the life and festivals happening in West Cork, pick up a copy of work of Ireland’s first female the monthly free paper, West Cork People. Eyeries Family Festival in botanist – takes place in July has a host of activities, Bantry, Glengarriff, and live music and craic go leor Ballylickey. Michael O’Dwyer Tin MAY for all ages. See Facebook. ellenhutchins.com Whistle Festival Allihies. Sheeps Head Yarn Festival Michael lived in the Garnish Family Festival, at A festival to help you learn Ardgroom area of Beara. He AUGUST the southern tip of the Beara new skills and techniques often played his tin whistle Castletownbere Festival peninsula.This is a long in many areas of yarn craft. and always had it with him of the Sea – Starts August running family festival with The workshops will cover when walking the roads Bank Holiday Weekend. A lots to do for all ages. See knitting, crochet, felting and looking for lifts. A shy but spinning. See Facebook. week long celebration of Facebook. much loved man, he was fishing heritage including live an inspiration to many. See music and family fun. See Bay Run - During May every facebook. SEPTEMBER year from Glengarriff to Facebook. Chief O’Neill Festival – a Bantry, don’t let the scenery Jim Dowling Uilleann Pipe Bere Island Festival is held traditional music festival in stop you.... & Trad Music Festival www.bayrun.ie during the second week Bantry from 6-8 September. Glengarriff in honour of of August. Activities for all the late piper Jim Dowling the family from theatre to Taste of West Cork Festival The Corona Fastnet who embodied the best of biathlons, talent competition 7-16 September, 2018. Short Film Festival is an the area’s unique musical and a regatta. See brings together a unique mix independent festival in tradition. jimdowlingfestival. Facebook. of food markets, cooking Schull dedicated to bringing eu together established and demonstrations, dinners, Bantry BBQ Festival brunches and banquets with first-time filmmakers in a West Cork Garden Trail - August Bank Holiday guest chefs, food-tastings, forum to celebrate the short This annual event, running Weekend. See Facebook. talks, exhibitions, children’s film. fastnetfilmfestival.com. all summer, is a highlight events and more. of the Irish gardening year, Schull Regatta Fun on land www.atasteofwestcork.com giveing an opportunity and water – a weekend JUNE to view the beautiful and event with greasy pole, tug The Chief O’Neill diverse gardens of West of war crab fishing, races, Traditional Music Festival Bantry Walking Festival Cork. music, swingboats and lots celebrates the musical June Bank Holiday Weekend westcorkgardentrail.com. – expert guides lead treks more. See Facebook. legacy of Chief O’Neill in Bantry with a festival to along the Sheep’s Head West Cork Chamber Music The Masters of Tradition highlight his achievements Way, around Whiddy Island, Festival, Bantry. a five-day festival held each as a collector of traditional and along the shores of See westcorkmusic.ie for full August in Bantry featuring Irish music. Programme of Bantry Bay. details. bantrywalkingfestival.com a series of performances concerts, workshops and covering the full spectrum sessions. See Facebook. of Irish and International

Enjoy ‘A Grand Day Out’ The Beara is one of the most unspoilt and beautiful Irish cuisine unrivalled in any other part of peninsulas, on the Southwest coast of the Wild Atlantic. By Ireland. The contrasts will amaze you. following our Red Fish (designed by the multi-award winning The title of the guide is from my Irish ceramic artist Grainne Watts) on your Grand Day Out, you mother’s comment on any day out we will discover mature gardens, local artists, craftworkers, and had as children, good, bad or disastrous, it retreats as well as breathtaking scenery and great food. was always ‘grand’. A Grand Day Out is a visitors’ guide to the Beara Peninsula It is great to be working together with fellow businesses on developed over 10 years ago by local business people and the Beara Peninsula. Supporting each other helps to create an artists to highlight some of the best that the peninsula has to awareness of how wonderful our remote peninsula is. So do offer. It leads you through lakes, valleys, gardens, beaches and come and join us for your own Grand Day Out. villages, bringing you on a journey of landscape, culture and John Goode (organiser) 30 BALLYLICKEY

OPEN DAILY!

Seaview House Hotel & Bath House Est. 1946 SHOP & ITCHEN Ballylickey, Bantry. Tel 027 50073 [email protected] Taste the story of West ork Perfect for Beara & Sheep’s Head walking or a trip to the Islands 4 Star Country Manor House food at annins mporium Hotel, set in mature gardens. Enjoy an Organic Seaweed Bath ocal Tastin lates Highly acclaimed by in one of our Bath Suites, or a Michelin & Good Hotel ourmet Sandwiches and Salads Treatment in our Bath House with Guides as one of Ireland’s top Woodired ias handcrafted woodburning outdoor destinations to stay and dine sauna & hot tub; a perfect raft Beer enu & 100 best in Ireland. recovery following activities such See our website for menu details ****************** as walking and cycling. Two AA Rosettes award anningseoriuie winning Restaurant. For the perfect Day Out join us Finest country house cuisine for Afternoon Tea /Afternoon Sea with an emphasis on prime or our famous Sunday Lunch with 027 504 56 seafood and local produce. a Traditional Dessert Trolley.

ARTISAN SHOP & ITCHEN

SITUATED on the coast This lovely country manor cuisine. Gourmet food shop, road between Bantry and house is filled with beautiful The Bathhouse at Seaview deli and cafe, Mannings’s Glengarriff, the townland of antiques and oozes charm House consists of treatment Emporium is renowned as Ballylickey makes a beautiful and character. Located near rooms, outdoor sauna and a food mecca with the best stopping off point. Ballylickey Bridge, over the outdoor hot tub. An ideal artisan produce in the area. Surrounded by a sheltered Ouvane River, it commands amenity for weary travellers, Try their wide selection coastline there are miles of wonderful views of Bantry the hotel also welcomes of Irish and continental walking tracks to explore in Bay from the main rooms. daytrippers who can relax in farmhouse cheeses, a range the area. Nearby, visitors will Seaview House has been the Bathhouse, followed by of wines from around the also find golf courses, sailing reviewed and recommended an Afternoon Tea of sweet world and an array of other activities and gardens to visit. by a number of prestigious treats or Afternoon Sea with artisan goodies. If sunny, guides, most notably fresh seafood. these are best enjoyed in the Georgina Campbell’s Ireland lovely outdoor seating area! Guides, the McKenna Guides, Michelin and the Good Hotel Guide. The restaurant is a popular dining venue with guests and locals. The menu has options from two to five courses and changes daily with plenty of local specials such as Bantry Bay crab, Monkfish, Also in Ballylickey is Turbot, Black Sole or West Seaview House Hotel, a Cork Lamb. It has won many delightful 4 star country awards for the quality of its house hotel set in private food and service, including and well tended grounds. two AA rosettes for excellent

31 WEST CORK MARKETS

THE huge popularity of local markets in West Cork town centre that harks back to the market days of yore. continues to grow and shows no sign of abating. Thanks Visit any market in a town and you will be pleasantly to the vibrancy of local producers and innovativeness surprised at the hum of activity and banter that that West Cork seems to inspire, West Cork is, quite- accompanies market day. These markets run all year rightly, seen as the foodie centre of Ireland. Markets long with a short break, for some, after Christmas. West contribute greatly to this, providing a unique opportunity Cork has many unique markets and below are some of for customers to meet the producers and to sample the markets in the main towns around West Cork. unique delights. They also create an ambiance within a

MACROOM (Tuesdays) Dead smack in the centre of Macroom, beside the town hall, can be found the most vibrant of markets each Tuesday. Home to a large herd of water buffalo it boasts one of the many unique products from this area, namely, Macroom Dairy’s award-winning fresh Irish Buffalo Mozzarella. This and traders alike the selection just off the main street beside Fair Field each Saturday is cheese won the gold medal at available is a full range of what O’Donovan’s Hotel. Local a true success story. Thanks the World Cheese Awards, one West Cork has to offer. Fresh roadworks means that from to the tenacity of its founding of the highest accolades in the organic veg, pickles, breads, Easter onwards it is to be traders and the support of business, beating seven other Thai food, cheeses, olives, located in and around Emmett local customers the market Italian Buffalo Mozzarellas. hummus, coffee, salads, Square beside the church is one of the most successful Organic veg, a full range of pickles, vegan treats are just and statue of local hero, and diverse markets in cheeses, olives, handmade some of the fare on offer. Michael Collins. Local meats, Ireland. Skibbereen now soaps, local honeys, plants Wood-crafts, plants and herbs veg, fish, chicken, salads, boasts one of the largest and herbs, pizza, coffee, are also available. The market raw chocolates, vegetables, markets in the area with a homeware, clothing and crafts is at its thriving best come cheeses, sushi, fresh salads, truly mind-blowing selection can also be found here. The summertime with a full range foraged and fermented foods, of food, drinks and crafts. In council is continuously working of local produce. The market chocolate, herbs and spices, summer the market hosts an with the market traders in operates every Wednesday breads and cakes are just astonishing 150-200 stalls. looking for ways in which from 9am-2.30pm. some of the food fare on offer. Plenty of seats and a naturally to improve the market. This It also hosts a great coffee pedestriansed area makes this successful partnership has BANTRY (Fridays) stall and a fine selection of market a hive of activity and ensured Macroom markets Bantry market is one of the hot food from crepes and an absolute pleasure to visit vibrancy for the past few largest markets in the area. Thai food, to funky clothing, on a sunny Saturday morning. decades. The market operates Each Friday during the wood crafts, a refill station and The market operates from every Tuesday from 9am summer you are likely to come sustainable household items. 9.30am - 1.30pm. -2pm. upon 100 -150 stalls all trading Every Friday, 9am-2pm. a range from the finest foods Schull (Sun from Easter) KINSALE (Wednesdays) to the ultimate in curios. The BANDON (Saturdays) Established by the local Located in the centre of town buzz in Bantry on market day Since it’s move to the area producers, this market attracts on Kinsale’s historic Short is palpable with people coming below St. Peter’s Church this a wide range of traders Quay this market has been from all around Bantry and market continues to grow and visitors alike. Set in the thriving in the past few years. the local peninsulas to sample in popularity with regular picturesque seaside town Well-attended by customers the delights. The first Friday customers supporting this of Schull this market is a (Fair Day) sees people travel wonderful market every real Sunday treat. Once the from all around County Cork to Saturday morning. Again, Sunday Mass bell tolls the see a huge number of traders organic veg, meats, cheeses, market is suddenly swamped with a very interesting array delicious coffees, fish, with tourists and locals alike. of livestock and poultry on jams, cakes, spelt breads, Local crafts, hot food, breads, view as well as all the regular Mediterranean fare are organic veg, cakes and picnic traders. Every Friday from the staple of this market. basket fillers make up some 9am – 2:30pm. The market operates every of the selection fare here. The Saturday from 9.30am - market operates from 9.30am CLONAKILTY (Fridays) 1.30pm. - 2.30pm. Clonakilty Market is one of the first markets in the SKIBBEREEN (Saturdays) OTHER MARKETS country to be approved under Recently dubbed “the best Clonakilty on Thursdays, the Bord Bia ‘Good Practice small food market in the Dunmanway on Thursdays, Standard’. The award-winning world” by the Observer Food Rosscarbery on Saturdays. market is normally located Magazine, the market in the 32 GLENGARRIFF

Famed for its natural beauty, Glengarriff is situated on world-renowned Bantry Bay where the mountains meet the sea. The gateway to the Beara Peninsula, Glengarriff connects the towns of Bantry and Kenmare and has also acquired a fine reputation for the great variety of shops, accommodation, restaurants and pubs.

GLENGARRIFF has place. been famous as a holiday Blue Pool Park is a beautiful destination since the 1700s public area in the heart of the and boomed in the Victorian village. It takes in the two ferry times as an important stop departure points within the along the Prince-of-Wales- village – the pier and The Blue Route. Notable visitors down Pool – together with several through the years included shore side trails and loop George Bernard Shaw, walks. William Butler Yeats, a regular Within the park Seal visitor in the 1920s, and Point is a particularly good writer and journalist William viewpoint for all of the inner Makepeace Thackeray. harbour, highlighting the seal Glengarriff – translated colony and it is a popular from “An Gleann Garbh” in traditional bathing area. The Irish/Gaelic meaning ‘The park also has a rustic-style Rugged Glen’ – is situated in children’s playground which is a glacially deepened valley, immensely popular and well nestled by the foothills of worth a visit. the Caha Mountain range. Older children might The uniquely mild climate enjoy kayaking in the bay means that vegetation and for the golf enthusiast, thrives – Gorse, Fuchsia, Glengarriff’s 9-hole golf Rhododendrons, and course offers spectacular Camelias grow vigourously views of the harbour. and cover the hillsides and valleys in this area. Glengarriff is also one of the few areas in the British Isles which still retains much of the ancient woodlands which once covered these islands. Today the village still attracts visitors from all over the world. A natural meeting place, with its unrivalled beauty, peace and tranquillity, Glengarriff invites you to sit back, relax and take in the very special ambience of the 33 GLENGARRIFF Bamboo Glengarriff Park Nature Reserve

THE SETTING of Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve is spectacular, with the woods nestled in the sheltered glen THIS unique exotic garden opening out into Glengarriff is located in one of the most Harbour. Above the woods attractive areas of Ireland. rise the Caha Mountains, with Situated in the mild climate their dramatic layers of sheer of Glengarriff, the park has rock. thirty different species of Glengarriff Woods Nature bamboo surrounded by Reserve covers some 300ha, with the dominant habitats palms and other tropical being old oak woodland and plants, amidst romantic young woodland, which is paths and breathtaking regenerating in areas that views. rugged Esknamucky Trail, Mussel. This rare species have been cleared of non- The Bamboo Park is easy with its wonderful views lives to over 120 years old, native conifers over the last to find: situated directly out over the trees to the making it the longest living few years. The woods form mountains beyond. animal in Ireland. on the coastal road from one of the best examples of The Nature Reserve’s main Directions Bantry to Kenmare N 71 in oceanic sessile oak woodland car park is the starting point Leaving the main car park, Glengarriff. Coming from in Ireland, being rated second for all the walks. All walks cross the footbridge and Kenmare the entrance’s only in importance to the require strong shoes, with turn left. Half way round this huge japanese style-gate Killarney oakwoods. The walking boots recommended circular walk, is a footbridge is at your right, a few yards Nature Reserve is part of for the Esknamucky Walk (cross the bridge if you after passing the beautiful the much larger Glengarriff and Lady Bantry’s Lookout. wish to embark on the Big Glengarriff Harbour. Harbour and Woodlands Please keep dogs on leads. Meadow walk). To continue Special Area of Conservation Their scent will scare wildlife the River Walk, ignore the (SAC). and reduce your chances of bridge and carry straight on At one time, the woods seeing animals. until you near the public road. were part of Lord Bantry’s Climb the steps and in a few estate, but they were handed The River Walk minutes you’ll be back at the over to the State in 1955 for This is a lovely introduction car park. forestry purposes. However to Glengarriff Woods Nature Distance: 1km Time: 25mins in 1991, the woods were Reserve, taking you on a designated as a Nature gentle wander through old Big Meadow Walk Reserve and the woodland oak woods and along the The unique feature of this is now owned and managed banks of the Glengarriff walk is the Big Meadow, an by NPWS primarily for River. Take time to look area of old grassland that conservation and amenity around and see the ferns, has not been fertilised or purposes. mosses and lichens growing ploughed in living memory. A variety of trails are on the old oak trees – this There are hundreds of provided in the Glengarriff lush growth is typical of the anthills and several stately Woods Nature Reserve to oceanic woodlands in the oaks. In winter, the meadow suit a range of abilities. You south-west of Ireland, where is grazed by Kerry cattle to can take a gentle amble the Gulf Stream ensures the prevent scrub invading the along the River Walk or make climate is warm and wet. grassland. After passing the steep, but rewarding Beneath the oak canopy, through the meadow, you climb up to Lady Bantry’s the most common tree is come to a lake dug in 2006 Lookout. Longer options the evergreen Holly with and now home to the rare include the Big Meadow its prickly leaves and red Downy Emerald dragonfly. circuit, which takes you berries. Looking down into The walk also features large through woodlands and the river you may be lucky areas of young broad-leaf old grassland, or the more to spot a Freshwater Pearl woodland which is naturally 34 continued overleaf... GLENGARRIFF

Eccles Hotel Head Chef Eddie Atwell cut-out & keep recipe Maggie the island’s potato "Even if a dish reads simply on the menu, cake with cider steamed it will be a work of art on the plate." Lucinda O' Sullivan, Sunday Independent, May 2019 mussels, garden lovage, apple and buttermilk ALL DAY DINING - 12-9PM

Eddie has adapted warm and fresh from the pan. SIT DOWN SUNDAY LUNCH - 12:30 - 4PM this recipe from one he discovered on Garinish Mussels LIVE MUSIC ON SELECTED NIGHTS Island. Ingredients: IN THE HARBOUR BAR • 200g fresh mussels (bantry Potato cake bay when available) Ingredients: • 200ml dry cider • 225g baked mash potato • 1 granny smith apple diced (weighed after cooking) (skin on or off) half cooked • 85g plain flour with the mussels half • Splash of milk reserved to serve • Pinch of salt • 1 sprig of lovage • 28g butter • 50ml butter milk • 50 g butter STAY FROM €80 PPS Method: • 1 lemon juiced Use a good baking potato, I INC. BREAKFAST use roosters and bake them Method: in the skins, once cooked In a high sided pan on a high scoop out the dry baked heat add the mussels cider A location like no other with a view to die for. potato and reserve. and half the apple, cover with Culinary magic by renowned Chef Eddie Attwell, Rub the butter with flour a lid and allow to cook. that celebrates the very best of what’s fresh, local and salt then mix into the Once the mussels are and in season. A sense of classic welcoming charm potato, add a little milk to open remove from the heat that wraps you in its warm embrace from the make a dough consistency, and add the butter. moment you arrive. All at the gateway to the Roll the dough out to form a Strain the mussels and circle and cut in 4 pieces. remove the meat. Reserve beautiful Beara Peninsula, right on the water’s edge. Use a heavy based frying to keep warm, best eaten This is Eccles Hotel Glengarriff. pan and lightly sprinkle a immediately. This is where better begins. coating of flour, on a medium Season the mussel meat heat place the cakes on the with a little lemon juice and flour until they rise a little and combine with the fresh diced TO BOOK, CALL lightly colour, flip the potato apple and lovage, finally mix +353 (0)27 63003 or email cake and repeat on the other in the buttermilk and serve side. on top of your warm, fried or [email protected] These can be toasted toasted potato cake. fried in a little butter or eaten www.eccleshotel.com 35 GLENGARRIFF

Glengarriff Nature Reserve..cont’d from page 34. re-colonising areas which the forest track turn left onto especially impressive after forest track by a grove of have been cleared of another track. After 1.3km rain, is on the Canrooska Eucalpytus trees. Turn left off conifers. you will reach a sign to Lady river, which flows down to the forest track onto a path Directions Bantry’s Lookout. Turn left meet the main Glengarriff that winds its way down to Take the River Walk until you to get back to the car park river. the public road. Cross this reach a footbridge. Cross this (or right if you still have the Directions road and turn left onto the bridge, keep left and cross energy to climb up to the Leaving the car park follow River Walk and the car park a second bridge. Turn right viewing point). the track north to the public is reached in a few minutes. to reach the Big Meadow. At Distance: 3km Time: 90mins road and turn left. After a Distance: 2.8km the end of the meadow turn short distance you will cross Time: 90mins left along a forest track and Waterfall Walk a stone bridge over the past a lake. Near the end of The waterfall, which is Canrooska River. Take the Lady Bantry’s Lookout right hand path at the picnic This walk is a must on table and follow the path any fine day. The climb up along the river bank to a through the woods is steep, small waterfall. Return by the but the effort is worth it. From same path and either take the the top there are panoramic Esknamucky Trail or return to views over Glengarriff to the car park. Garinish Island, Whiddy Distance: 0.5km Island and Bantry Bay. To Time: 15mins the north you can see the full extent of Glengarriff Esknamucky woodlands, nestling in the Otherwise known as the rugged glen rimmed by the High Walk, this trail climbs Caha Mountains. up through the woods for Directions views over the trees to the From the car park head south mountains beyond. It can along the track to the bend. also be combined with the Cross the narrow footbridge waterfall walk and head up the footpath, Directions which follows the line of an Leaving the car park follow ancient road down the Beara the track north to the public peninsula. Crossing the road and turn left. After public road, the steep ascent a short distance you will begins. As you near the top, cross a stone bridge over one of the last trees on the the Canrooska River. Take left is a Strawberry Tree the left hand path at the (Arbutus unedo). Lookout for picnic table. Soon after, the the characteristic red fruit in path climbs up to a series late summer. To return to the of viewing points before car park retrace your steps. descending again to a Distance: 1km Time: 30mins

Great Glengarriff Horseshoe Barley Lake THERE ARE numerous short hikes in the area but here are the three most popular. All three can be done in a day to complete the Great Glengarriff Horseshoe. North Horseshoe – Distance: 10km – Difficulty: steep Accessed from Barley Lake or Caha Tunnel the route follows a stream west of Barley Lake. Take the ridge around the valley and along the county boundary. Views north to Macgillicuddy’s Reeks and south to Bantry Bay. Sugarloaf Mountain – Distance: 11.5km – Difficulty: steep South Horseshoe – Distance: 11.5km – Difficulty: steep Can be climbed by shorter but steeper route from the stream Ascending from Barley Lake head south-west along the at Maganagan, or from the south on a longer but less steep ridge, keeping Coomerkane and Magannagan valleys on left. route. 360° panorama views over West Cork, South Kerry Spectacular views west of Bere Island and Beara Peninsula. and Bantry Bay. May be combined with Sugarloaf ascent. 36 GLENGARRIFF The beauty of Garinish Island

tones of mellow Bath stone, precaution against possible columns of gloriously red French invasion. It was in Rosso Antico and the veined Bantry Bay in 1796 that the beauty of slabs of marble from Irish patriot Wolfe Tone had Carrara and Connemara. anchored with part of a force As a visitor, you may also of 43 ships and 15,000 troops wander the wilder planting supplied by the Revolutionary of less formal areas, enjoy French government in the heavily shaded woodland an attempt to overthrow environment of The Jungle, British rule. Extremely stroll beneath the fine brick stormy weather, however, and stone walls of the Walled scattered the armada and Garden with its nurseries and made effective invasion an climbing plants, or climb the impossibility. wide steps at the end of an When it’s time to rest, you avenue of Italian cypresses can also enjoy the welcome of that leads to the Grecian the island’s café, taking your Temple with its views over the refreshment while looking out sea to the Caha Mountains. over the sea to Glengarriff with If you follow the path from its backdrop of mountains. Happy Valley, a flight of blue Garinish, which means ‘the shale steps leads you up to near island’ is also known as the island’s Martello Tower, Illnacullin, ‘the island of holly’, built in 1804-5, and one of which may well be its original many such towers constructed name. around the coast as a

LOCATED in the shelter of begin. Glengarriff Harbour in Bantry In fact, the planned mansion Bay and warmed by the was never built and the Bryce waters of the Gulf Stream, family used an extended this island and its unique cottage as their home until gardens enjoys a climate the island was bequeathed that is almost sub-tropical, to the Irish people in 1953. making it possible for beautiful Many distinguished visitors ornamental plants from many were entertained at Garinish parts of the world to flourish. including George Bernard This gardening gem, set in Shaw, who stayed on the the clear, clean waters of the island in 1923 while working bay is known to horticulturists on his play, ‘Saint Joan’. all over the world and was The extensive gardens were featured recently in BBC built however, and remain as Television’s ‘The Flying a lasting tribute to the vision of Gardener’ series. Annan Bryce and to the skills The 15 hectare island was of his architect, Harold Peto, bought by Annan Bryce in who specialised in the design 1910. He intended to build of Italian style gardens. Widely a mansion as well as lay out known for his work throughout extensive gardens on the Britain and southern France, island, which, at that time the gardens of Garinish are was as bare and exposed as acknowledged to be Peto’s the mountains of the nearby masterpiece. mainland are now. Rocks had The centrepiece of the to be blasted and shelter-belts design is the Italian garden of conifers planted all round with the perfectly proportioned the island in preparation for buildings of the Casita and work on the grand design to the Temple showing the warm 37 GLENGARRIFF

cape on a jour es ney li ke n o o th er e x p e r i e n c e Ireland’s #1 garden The Irish Times Ireland’s Top Ten Lufthansa

Kenmare Road Glengarriff www.theewe.com

A surprise around every corner The pipes, the ESCAPE on a journey at The Ewe pipes are calling Experience in Glengarriff. Unlike anywhere else in the world, it is thought provoking but at JIM DOWLING, the same time relaxing. an adopted son This award winning garden has been 26 of Glengarriff, years in the making. It is a unique creative was one of a treat – a wonderful escape for a day out that select band of has been thoughtfully designed for all ages. young musicians Art and nature compliment each other in who trained with Ireland’s only interactive sculpture garden. the legendary It is the private home of artist Sheena Wood piper Leo and Kurt Lyndorff, but is open to visitors all Rowsome at summer. a time when For the 2019 season new sculptures and traditional music information boards on the natural history was confined to the back streets narrative await, plus yet more poems. There forest clearing with more sculptural surprises. and the kitchens. is also a new entrance and exit and a golden Follow the Yarn Spinner’s trail of playful In 1951, at the throne with a a surprise behind it to try out. poetry or simply enjoy the sights and sounds Dublin Pipers Club headquarters, the The Ewe Experience includes a great of nature. Meander up into the Environmental first standing Committee of Cumann educational science walk and a poetry trail, Forest, where all the sculptures are made Ceoltóirí na hÉireann was elected. Jim intriguing sculptures and mysteries to solve. from re-cycled materials. For story lovers Dowling held the position as secretary Over 200 educational boards with information information on plants, animals, natural history for 12 years. and illustrations about the environment, and the environment give food for thought During this period Jim travelled plants, animals and natural & human history along the way. The journey continues high as far as the US for traditional music guide visitors through the extraordinary up into Valley of Eden with spectacular views sessions in New York and Boston. He gardens. The interactive sculptures include to the mountains and sea. Follow Evolution featured on the Ed Sullivan Show and life’s treadmill, which visitors can spin, and Walk which tells the story of Earth from was one of a number of musicians who an intriguing glass magnifying wall, which bacteria and dinosaurs to humans, and gives were due to perform at a concert for distorts the faces of visitors into monsters, or you a chance to meet your ancestors. Or President Kennedy in 1963 before his another reflector where visitors get a unique come face to face with the most destructive assassination meant that the concert perspective on themselves. animal ever. Schools, families and individuals of all ages was cancelled. Later Jim travelled can enjoy the one kilometre walk through www.theewe.com around Europe with many visits to four gardens, dotted with mind challenging email: [email protected] or Tel: 027-63840 Germany and was a guest of Mayor games, creative areas and story boards for Facebook: The Ewe Experience Rommel at the Cologne music festival. a relaxing learning experience like no other. Open every day 10-6pm June, July & August. Jim moved down to Glengarriff in The four separate gardens of around five Adults €7.50, Children €6, 1969 and set about popularising the acres are set along a waterfall, that cuts its Family of 2 adults and 2 kids €25. playing of uillean pipes and traditional way down the Esk mountain valley into the Also art gallery. music. The “seisiuns” he held soon glen of Glengarriff. From Glengarriff 3 miles up the Kenmare became a focus for musicians from In Falling Water Garden a vain emu, a sun Road – well sign posted. far and wide, and those who wanted bathing rhino and other humorous sculptures Look out for a sheep on top of a vintage car. the opportunity to learn from a master emerge amongst grasses and bamboo. GPS: N 51’ 46’ 37” W 9’ 34’ 09” musician. A festival is held in his honour Bridges lead you across the waterfall to new or postcode: P75PY72 every year in the village in June. discoveries in the Timeless Glen, a shady See www. jimdowlingfestival.ie. 38 WEST CORK ACTIVITIES / THINGS TO DO

LEARN ABOUT one of Hill, overlooking the lake, the most important eras is a great family outing that of Irish history though the offers one of the prettiest Skibbereen Famine Story exhibition views in West Cork. at Skibbereen Heritage Find out about the history, THE FAMINE STORY Centre. Skibbereen is folklore and formation of synonymous with the Great Lough Hyne at Skibbereen Famine of the 1840s, Heritage Centre before & Genealogy when over a million Irish you visit lough itself. Learn people died and at least about the long history of Service another 1.5 emigrated. marine research at the lake, Skibbereen was one of the its underwater flora and worst affected areas in all fauna, and the legend of the of Ireland and many of the King with asses’ ears. Famine sites, including Skibbereen Heritage three mass burial grounds, Centre also offers a full still exist today. genealogy service for West The Famine Story Cork with our in-house exhibition at Skibbereen genealogist on hand to Heritage Centre gives an help with your searches (by insight into this complex era appointment). SKIBBEREEN HERITAGE CENTRE through personal accounts Skibbereen Heritage Also features ... of those who experienced Centre is located in the the Famine. Take a ‘virtual award-winning, beautifully • Lough Hyne exhibition tour’ of Famine sites in restored Old Gasworks • Giftshop the town and listen to the Building, overlooking Wheelchair access | Adjacent car park stories associated with the Ilen River. As well them. Use the Skibbereen as information on the Open Daily ex. Sunday from May - September Famine Story app as a Ilen’s wildlife and some Open Tue - Sat other months, 10am - 6pm. guide to the Famine sites in archaeology sites in the Old Gasworks Building, Upper Bridge Street, Skibbereen the town, or use the printed area, Skibbereen Heritage Tel: 028 40900 | www.skibbheritage.com map to see them in person. Centre has a gift shop, an Appreciate the true enormity adjacent car park and is of this national tragedy fully wheelchair accessible. SUGGESTED DAYS OUT | DRIMOLEAGUE through the streets and Skibbereen Heritage stories of Skibbereen. Centre is open daily DRIMOLEAGUE, which introduced to encourage Lough Hyne, 5km from except Sunday in high was once the busiest visitors to follow Ireland’s Skibbereen town, is one of season (May-September) railway junction of West scenic but little known the must-see places when and Tuesday to Saturday Cork, with no fewer than Pilgrim Paths, of which St visiting West Cork. This (March, April, October), three platforms, has Finbarr’s is just one – www. unique salt-water lake is 10am to 6pm. Special deals now become the hub of pilgrimpath.ie. Ireland’s first Marine Nature for families and groups walking networks in the An attractive 120 page Reserve and an area of with a warm welcome area. Hence the title ‘The Drimoleague Heritage spectacular beauty rich guaranteed. Walkers Junction of West Walkways Booklet is in myth and folklore. The www.skibbheritage.com Cork’. Here the award available at the Top of nature trail up Knockomagh winning Sheeps Head the Rock Pod Páirc and Way converges with the Walking Centre or by email six Drimoleague Heritage from davidross316@gmail. Walkways, and then com. As you walk you can continues northwards to listen on your MP3 player Kealkil. The St Finbarr’s to 11 fascinating audio files Pilgrim Way, a 37km of the music, folklore and ancient pilgrim path to heritage of these walks… St Finbarr’s hermitage at Download these free at Glougane Barra, also starts www.westcorkwalking.com. here at the Top of the Rock. For detailed information This walk won a National on walks, events and Heritage Week award in history see www. Lough Hyne was first ‘discovered’ by scientists in 1886 and it 2011. drimoleaguewalkway.com. is now one of the most-studied marine sites of its size in the A new passport has been world. Discover its secrets at Skibbereen Heritage Centre. 39 BEARA ART, CRAFT & SCULPTURE

Mill Cove Gallery

Painting Print Ceramics Sculpture

Main Street Kenmare Co. Kerry

Tel. 027 70393 www.millcovegallery.com

John Brennan

Paintings Fine art Prints

Mill Cove Gallery

Tel. 087 2964675 www.millcovegallery.com

40 BEARA ART, CRAFT & SCULPTURE

IRISH CRAFTS ART COFFEE SHOP

Adrigole, Beara West Cork

Open Daily 10 am to 6pm tel. 027 60234 www.hungryhillgallery.com E Q

Adrigole Arts QUALITY is Adrigole Arts’ trademark; it is widely recognised for selecting a diverse range of beautiful and unusual Irish craft and Fine Irish Art. This wonderful shop offers the best Wallace Seymour Fine Art Products of Irish made crafts from just €5 and includes handmade An extensive range of high quality jewellery in classic and innovative designs, finest Irish materials for all artists made woollens including throws, scarves and Donegal wool at a reasonable price. jumpers in beautiful colours and designs, hand thrown pottery A range of locally made crafts including from some of Ireland’s leading potters, wood turning in leather goods, ceramics and unique native Irish woods and sculptures in 5,000 year old bog oak, upcycled cashmere throws by Billie Weston. beautiful hand blown Irish glass and traditional Irish pewter. Buy online @ www.thebearagallery.com They also have a wonderful gallery space called Telephone: 083 1292571 Hungry Hill Gallery which exhibits work by Irish artists and specialises in landscape art. Each year they run solo and group exhibitions. Check out www.hungryhillgallery and Facebook for details. Also see Facebook for details of The Beara Gallery occasional Gallery Concerts with musician Gerry Bruton – ART ADMIRERS and practioners will both enjoy a visit to The accompanied by a glass of complementary Prosecco, these Beara Gallery in Lauragh, on the north side of the peninsula, nights are a real musical treat! though the Healy Pass. This wonderful gallery captures Adrigole Arts also has a coffee shop – one of the finest the uniqueness of the peninsula through gallery artist Nigel spots in West Cork to stop for great coffees, teas, homemade Overton and guests. cakes and scones. When the sun is out enjoy the glorious The gallery exhibits a wide selection of contemporary art, views from the adjoining terrace. Open daily from 10am ceramics, candles and crafts, as well as a brilliant range of to 6pm throughout the season from April to October. Wallace Seymour fine art products and Native paints, a high Please phone ahead for winter opening hours 027 60234. quality decór paint. For walkers and cyclists the wonderfully Located on the R572 midway between Glengarriff and helpful owner delivers locally (to your B&B for example), Castletownbere. nationally or internationally so you need not leave any treasures behind you.

©Nigel Overton

Adrigole Arts

41 BEARA ART, CRAFT & SCULPTURE Mill Cove Galleries

Mill Cove Galleries are the longest established galleries in paintings range from small intimate pieces to large scale Southwest Ireland. The Galleries only represent a small, works. The work is not always site specific, instead it select number of Irish painters with respected national captures the essence of the Beara landscape, and its and international reputations. They are the experts in changing weather, through its textures, colours and contemporary Irish ceramics, commissioning exclusive works distinctive light. Stylistically his work combines literal by the very best of emerging and established Irish ceramic representation and abstraction. artists. John’s digital works are signed, limited edition archival Artist John Brennan, a Clonmel native, is a graduate of the quality prints, using pigment based inks on acid free Crawford College of Art and Design. John and his partner, paper. They are available in a variety of sizes, framed and John Goode, have been living and working on the Beara unframed. These prints tend to be more abstract but still they Peninsula for 20 years where they established Mill Cove reference the West Cork landscape in colour and shapes. Gallery in 1999. John continues to maintain his studio in West Cork and Mill The unspoilt landscape of West Cork inspires John’s Cove Gallery is open at 21 Main Street, Kenmare throughout paintings and, more recently, his digital work. John’s the year.

ADRIGOLE

ADRIGOLE is a village strung approximately 9km along the north-western shore of Bantry Bay. Looming over it is Hungry Hill (685m, 2,253 ft), the highest of the Caha range which forms the spine of the peninsula. Hungry Hill gave its name to Daphne du Maurier’s famous novel about the local copper- mining barons of the 19th century. The stunningly beautiful Caha mountains offer fantastic hill-walking opportunities at all grades. Climb magnificent Hungry Hill, discover the hidden lakes of Coomarkane and Coomadavallig, and wonder at the Mares Tail Waterfall, the highest in Ireland. Other nearby attractions include the Tim Healy Pass that meanders over the mountains into South Kerry. Pic: John Brennan

42 CASTLETOWNBERE The heart of Beara

CASTLETOWNBERE is ©Niall Duffy a vibrant town boasting possibly the finest natural harbour in Ireland. Nestling between the Caha and Slieve Miskish Mountains the town is sheltered from the Atlantic Ocean by Bere The freshest fish & shellfish, caught locally Island and is situated on the Wild Atlantic Way route. It is a perfect example of where land and sea collide Dine on our stunning seaview deck and where untamed beauty abounds. Castletownbere is the perfect base for tourists to explore the unspoilt beauty of the Beara Peninsula’s flora and fauna and the many antiquities it has to offer. There is plenty of Open 7 days in season with... accommodation to choose from including a hotel, bed Casual Dining daily 12-5pm and breakfasts, hostels BEARA ACUPUNCTURE Evening Menu with daily special from 5pm and self catering as well & CHINESE MEDICINE Mon-Thurs and Sat & Sun as fantastic pubs and Castletownbere Sunday Lunch 12pm to 4.30pm restaurants where you’ll find Joanna E Riddell fine food and an even finer BSc (Hons) MBAcC MSSAc Award-winning Open Fire Cooking welcome. 086 365 1112 every Friday from 5pm Fishing is the chief Acupuncture, Chinese Medicine Our menus have been created to reflect the freshest ingredients economic activity in the – Cupping, Moxibustion, mainly from the West Cork region with a focus on the Beara town; Castletownbere is Electro- Acupuncture, Gua ‘Sha Peninsula. The menu changes with the seasons reflecting the various currently one of the five & Auricular Acupuncture and sometimes unusual items that we can obtain from our suppliers. main fishing ports on the Abdominal Acupuncture Due to our location we use the freshest fish and shellfish caught island of Ireland. It is the Motor Point Acupuncture/Trigger Point locally and enjoy a personal relationship with many local fishermen. largest whitefish port in the “Orthopaedic & Sports Acupuncture” Our supplier list features many local artisan products including Micro Acupuncture 48 – Ophthalmic country and the second Milleens cheese, Gubben Bacon, Michael Moore Fruit & Veg, Scalp Acupuncture O’Neills Atlantic Sea Salt, Beara Ocean Gin, safest natural harbour in Micro Needling The Laughing Oyster, Bere Island and Toons Bridge Dairy. the world. It is also home to Therapeutic & Holistic Massage the Irish Fisheries Training Lava Shell Thermal Massage Waterfall,Castletownbere, Co Cork School, under the auspices Lifestyle & Dietary Advice To make a reservation call 027-71306 of BIM. Stockists of: Pestle & Mortar email: [email protected] Beara Breeze Candles 43 CASTLETOWNBERE

Loop de Loop on Bank Beara Preserves is a local Place in Castletownbere is family run business that a charming emporium that produces the highest quality is well worth a visit. It stocks jams and preserves. all manner of health foods – Drawing from some of the from snacks to herbal teas richest and purest fishing Health Store, Gift Shop to dairy or gluten free – as grounds in Europe, Shellfish well as a lovely range of De-La-Mer exports all over fair-trade gifts and skincare the world. Its range includes & Eco Emporium brands like Dr Hauschka, crab products, prawns, Bank Place, Castletownbere T: 027-70770 Irish Botanica and Trilogy. shrimp, scallops, fresh white There are also natural fish and many more. E Find us on facebook! remedies and supplements to keep you healthy on your Irish Atlantic Sea Salt is the holidays. quintessential Irish product. Eco Solutions to Household, Its single ingredient is pure, There are so many fantastc oceanic sea water. The Health and Skincare needs food producers located in uniqueness of the product this area that it is impossible and the environment from to mention them all but here which it is sourced, reflects are a few to try and take the remote, rugged and samples home for friends to unspoilt nature of the Beara enjoy: Peninsula. Rich in over 50 natural trace elements this sea salt retains over 60 naturally-occurring trace elements essential for good health such as such as magnesium, iron, calcium and potassium.

Don’t miss... cuisine featuring the very Milleens Cheese is a soft, best of local produce. Dining at The Beara Coast, washed-rind cheese made The Laughing Oyster guests have a choice of For casual or formal dining from the milk of Friesian cows grazing the mountains and Seaweed Company experiences; The Arches Bar accompanied by a stunning pastures of the peninsula. sustainably harvest, dry and is casual and comfortable panoramic view of the Milleens is the longest prepare a variety of Irish and offers the perfect place harbour and Bere Island established Irish farmhouse seaweeds using traditional to relax and enjoy the wide see Berehaven Lodge cheese in the country and it means gathered from the range of craft beers, Irish on the previous page. The has many fans – including the pristine Irish waters of Bere whiskies and cocktails; The chef here sources the best Dorchester Hotel in London, Island. Coastal Restaurant promises of local produce from local which is a loyal customer. you a culinary experience suppliers and artisan food not to be forgotten from producers along the south fine dining to contemporary western seaboard. A thrilling ride through Bantry Bay BERE ISLAND SEA SAFARI is one of West Cork’s primary With Bere Island Sea Safari you can experience leisure attractions. With departures from Bere Island and the spectacular coastline of Beara in complete Castletownbere, Bere Island Sea Safari has become a firm contrast to the view from the shore, gone are the favourite with visitors and locals alike. houses, the road signs, the traffic. Instead, there are Bere Island Sea Safari will bring you on an exciting, fun empty beaches, snug harbours caves and great expanses filled sea tour of the Bantry Bay area whilst also showing you of fields and cliffs. spectacular sights and attractions. Climb aboard one of their The duration of the regular trip is 1 hour, but a group specially designed RIBs and experience a thrill like no other. charter can be arranged for a longer duration for See sights such as lighthouses, caves, cliffs and beaches while a visit to any destination in Bantry Bay. Call Sean on watching out for dolphins, puffins, kittiwakes, porpoises, seals – 086 8595701. Meet Bere Island Sea Safari in Castletownbere you might even be lucky enough to spot a whale! at the Ferry Terminal. (see advert on back cover)

44 CASTLETOWNBERE

cut-out & keep recipe the cherry tomatoes, spring onions and capers. Beara Coast Cover with the crème fraiche. Smokies Season with the white with Homemade pepper and lemon juice. Brown Bread Sprinkle with the cheese and bake in the oven for Head Chef Mark Johnston about 15 minutes until the of The Beara Coast Hotel centre is cooked. shares the secret of one of Finish off under the grill his most popular dishes. until the cheese is browned. Smokies Serve with some whole- meal brown bread • 50g Butter • 600g/18oz naturally Homemade Brown Bread Smoked Haddock, skin off, bones removed and diced • 1.25kg Plain Flour • 1 punnet of Cherry Toma- • 1.25kg Wholemeal Flour toes, halved • 40g Bread Soda • 4 Spring Onions, finely • 60g Wheat Germ chopped • 60g Wheat Bran • 50g Capers • 50g Salt • 400g/9oz Crème Fraiche • 100g Brown Sugar • Freshly ground White • 2L Butter Milk Pepper • 12g Baking Powder • Grated Gruyere Cheese for • 500ml Milk sprinkling on top • 1 Lemon Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Preheat the oven to 180ºc. Make a well in the centre Get 4 small baking dishes and add both milks slowly. and grease the sides with Line loaf tins with butter. the butter. Bake in the oven at 175ºc Divide up the fish and add for 1 hour.

The Beara Distillery is a family-run micro distillery based in the remote location of the Beara Peninsula. Producers of Beara Ocean Gin, the team source and forage locally as much of the ingredients as possible to create high quality spirits that are a true reflection of their scenic home place. The use of elements from the Wild Atlantic such as salt- water and sugar kelp is what helps set the Beara distillery apart. 45 BEARA WILDLIFE

THE WILDLIFE of Bantry Bay to designate sites for their Birdwatching locations: brown with cream spots but out and the flanking peninsulas protection. The peninsulas Birds can be seen wherever on open hillsides, where it can of Beara and Muntervary, is flanking Bantry Bay are hot you go in the Bantry/Beara be found grazing on lichen- very diverse. From the seabed spots for the species, with area. A popular destination covered rocks on damp days, to the mountains tops, and two Special Protection Areas for spotting migrant birds is it is more usually black with all the habitats in between, (SPAs) i.e. *Beara Peninsula Dursey Island. Perfect places white spots. including islands, cliffs, ancient SPA (Bere Island to Cod’s to see chough can be found at Freshwater pearl mussels woodlands, lakes, blanket Head) and Sheep’s Head the western end of the Sheep’s have the distinction of being bogs, and heath, there’s a to Toe Head SPA. Chough Head Way or along the Beara Ireland’s longest living animal, wealth of biodiversity. Here are nest mainly on sea cliffs and Way walking route – at for surviving up to 120 years some of the highlights: feed on closely grazed grass example, Bere Island, Crow old or more. The mussel’s Marine mammals: Bantry sward or heathland. It’s a bird Head and Dursey Island. At complicated life cycle involves Bay is one of the most which seems to have a great Allihies some of the chough its small larvae (glochidia) important places for harbour sense of fun and can be seen even nest in some of the attaching to the gills of trout seals in Europe, with perhaps performing aerial acrobatics old copper mine shafts and and salmon. The presence of 400 of them present. The along the cliffs. buildings. If you’re in Bantry, pearl mussels is an indicator greatest number occur in Terns: Terns are a common pick up a ‘Birds of Bantry’ of good water quality and one sheltered Glengarriff Harbour, sight, dipping and diving, as leaflet from the tourist office of the best rivers in the country with other concentrations off they fish in Bantry Bay. Indeed, for more ideas of where to go for the species is on the Beara the western tip of Whiddy Horse Island, a low shingle birdwatching. peninsula at Ardgroom. Island and in Adrigole Harbour. islet near Bantry town, contains Glenagarriff Woods and Butterflies and One of the best ways to see one of the largest common tern Invertebrates: Glengarriff dragonflies: Purple hairstreak the seals up close is to go on colonies in the country. Small Woods Nature Reserve, owned is a rare butterfly of woodland an organised boat trip from numbers of Arctic tern can also and managed by the National canopies found in only a Glengarriff (as part of a trip to be seen. Parks and Wildlife Service, handful of places in Ireland, Garnish Island). Gannets: Bull Rock, off the has several walking trails. The whilst the downy emerald There are plenty of otters tip of Dursey Island, supports a Reserve is home to all sorts of dragonfly is known from only in the bay, though they are massive gannet colony, second wildlife, including an interesting four other places in Ireland. much more elusive than seals. only in size to the colony at range of invertebrates such as You might be luck and spot If you’re visiting one of the Little Skellig, Co. Kerry. There Kerry slug, freshwater pearl a downy emerald in the lake headlands, keep your eye are up to 2000 pairs of gannet mussel, purple hairstreak dug specially for the species in open for a whale or dolphin: nesting on the island. When butterfly and downy emerald Glengarriff Woods. regularly spotted species the mackerel are running in dragonfly. include porpoise, bottlenose Bantry Bay, gannets can be Kerry slugs are found in Clare Heardman, dolphin and minke whale. seen torpedoing into the sea in many places in west Cork/ Conservation Ranger Chough: The chough is a a fishing frenzy. If you see this west Kerry, associated with *To find out about all the member of the crow family, happening be sure to keep a the old red sandstone, but conservation sites designated with red legs and a curved red look out for whales or dolphins they occur nowhere else in in west Cork bill. The species is scarce in which are often attracted to the world except the north of visit www.npws.ie. Europe and as a result Ireland the same shoal of fish as the Spain/Portugal. In Glengarriff has a duty under EU legislation gannets. Woods the slug is generally BEARA BEACHES

Adrigole pebble beach facilities and is a short walk main Allihes road, has been beach. Toilets and changing is situated at Trafask (2.5 from the picturesque village. developed in the last number rooms are available. Irish miles from Adrigole village Ardgroom Droumard Strand of years. Toilet facilities are Water Safety week swimming on Glengarriff side) which is located 1.5 miles from now available. Take the first lessons are held here, usually is signposted from the Ardgroom Village on the left turn, after the football pitch on the last week in June. main road. Another popular Kenmare Road. It is one of on your way out of the town on Located near The Lehanmore bathing area is the sandy the safest and cleanest in the the Allihes road. Community Centre with a café, inlet at Zetland which again Beara Peninsula. Eyeries The Strand at Eyeries gift shop and Wifi access. is signposted from the main Parking available for camper A small sheltered is signposted from the village. road. Bere Island vans, with accessible outdoor strand is located on the South It has a sand and gravel electrical points and water. Allihies The beach at side of Bere Island overlooking beach and is safe for bathing Ballydonegan on the way Bantry Bay. It is signposted for young and old. There are Travara / Travaud Both to Allihes village from from the village Rerrin. It has swimming lessons held during swimming areas are to be Castletownbere was sand a gravel beach and is the summer. found on the northern side constructed using crushed safe for bathing for young and Garnish beach is a Green of the peninsula, between stone taken from the old. Coast Beach since 2010, Eyeries and Urhan. They are disused Copper mines in the popular bathing spots and Tralahan, the only one on the Beara surrounding area. The beach Castletownbere host annual swimming lessons approximately half a mile Peninsula, with excellent water also boasts an adjacent every year. (1 km) from the town on the quality and a safe, sandy camping site with toilet 46 BERE ISLAND

Lawrence Cove, Bere Island by John Eagle

BERE ISLAND has a thriving forts, standing stones, wedge swimming from two popular vibrant community providing tombs and burial sites. beaches; Scairt Beach a wide and varied range of Due to its strategic and Cloughland Strand. events and activities for both location, Bere Island has Swimming lessons are held islanders and visitors alike. a very interesting military every year at Scairt beach Bere islanders make great heritage. At the height of for the island’s children and strides to promote everything their Empire, the British had visitors are welcome to join the island has to offer for a particular interest in the in. Fishing trips, guided walkers, cyclists, yacht and island constructing military walking and boat tours are fishing enthusiasts and barracks, two Martello also available. being only a few yards from families, extending the warm towers, a signal tower and Other attractions include the quay and in the heart West Cork welcome to all. a military fortification which cycling along quiet by-ways; of the village, this purpose Bere Island lies at the hosts two six inch guns, all of boat-hire; dining on local built accommodation offers entrance to the magnificent which can be seen today. produce; or just enjoying the a variety of options of room Bantry Bay and guards The Heritage Centre is the ambience of one of Bere’s sizes and catering to suit all the deep water harbour of focal point of the island and pubs or restaurants. The visitors – Edel and Brendan Berehaven. The island lies hosts a permanent exhibition Bakehouse Cafe, next to the will also rent you a bike, book just 2kms offshore from the detailing the unique history shop, is open every summer you a fishing trip, or just point town of Castletownbere. and lifestyle of Bere Island, so stop in for refreshments. you in the direction of the The Slieve Miskish and and regular temporary Edel and Brendan Murphy best walks. Caha Mountain ranges of themed exhibitions, with own and run the extremely Murphy’s Ferry sails the Beara Peninsula tower genealogy books and comfortable Bere Island between Bere Island and the over the island providing a websites, the St Michael’s Lodge. In Brendan’s father Pontoon on the Glengarrif dramatic backdrop. graveyard database, and grandfather’s time where side of Castletownbere. The island is roughly traditional skills workshops the Lodge stands now was There is a comprehensive 11kms x 5kms in size and and courses, information on known as the Coal Yard sailing schedule every day has a population of just over the island’s heritage sites because it was where the (except Christmas Day!) 200. Despite its proximity to and walks, meditation and British Army kept its supply all year round. See www. the mainland, it retains that retreats, internet access, of coal for its barracks and murphysferry.com. distinct, easy charm of rural printing and office services, quarters. Well positioned, places distant from cities and a craft shop, and craft and crowds. It is a quiet paradise food fairs. of a size that is manageable The many activities for strolling or cycling. available on the island Bird watchers and plant include sea angling, walking, lovers will delight at the many diving and a variety of species to be found on land water sports. There are and at the waters edge. many places on Bere Island The island is also rich in suitable for swimming, the archaeological sites dating waters around the island are from the Bronze Age through very safe. Locals and visitors medieval times, including ring alike particularly enjoy 47 ALLIHIES, EYERIES & ARDGROOM

Allihies Eyeries Ardgroom by John Eagle Following the Wild Atlantic Eyeries is on the northern Way brings you to Allihies, coast of the Beara Peninsula the last village at the end of overlooking Coulagh Bay and the beautiful Beara peninsula. the mouth of the Kenmare This wonderful little hamlet River in the south-west. It lies sits between an impressive at the base of Maulin which, rocky mountain range and the at 2,044 feet (623 m), is the rugged Atlantic coast. highest peak in the Slieve The saying ‘a view around Miskish mountain range that every corner’ certainly applies forms part of the backbone of here. The panorama from the peninsula. Barnes gap is unforgettable Eyeries could be called and, as you descend towards the most colourful village in the village through the small Ireland. With bright pastel fields, the Man Engine house paintwork and the village Slieve Miskish Mountains. middle of the Atlantic only at the Mountain Mine leaps kept in pristine condition, Near the village lie a a few miles off the coast; out from the grey mountain Eyeries has been a winner number of megalithic walkers can often see seals, ahead. of Ireland’s Tidy Town monuments, the most dolphins, porpoises, and This village is home to the competition for many years. picturesque of which is basking sharks hunting for fascinating Allihies Copper The village has a stunning probably the stone circle to prey in Coulagh Bay. And Mine Museum. Find out more view of the surrounding be found to the southwest of seabirds and a variety of about the mines in the history hillsides, the sweeping vista the village. Unusually for a hawks often accompany stone circle, its stones tend to walkers as you make your section. Pop into O’Neill’s of the Beara Peninsula, taper toward points. way across the stunning, Restaurant for great food the always-changing face and refreshments when of Coulagh Bay, the rising wave-swept shoreline. visiting the village. swell of the distant Kerry Coulagh Bay, at Eyeries’ Activities doorstep, is a perfect location Mountains, and an unbroken Enjoy some of the most for both kayaking and wind horizon that is often painted scenic parts of this surfing with easy access in stunning sunsets. enchanting circle by walking to the bay from the strand the Beara Way from Eyeries or at the pier. The waters to Allihies on the tip of the of Coulagh Bay are crystal Ardgroom Beara Peninsula and back clear with a wide range of The name Ardgroom refers again. During your walk, you sealife. Villagers are happy to O’Neill’s Bar to two gravelly hills, Dromárd will see some of the most share their local knowledge & Pluais Umha Restaurant and Drombeg, which were spectacular sites that the of the best places to snorkel ALLIHIES, BEARA PENINSULA deposited by a glacier. It West of Ireland offers: Scarrif and scuba dive including Serving food all day 12 until 9pm lies to the northwest of Island rises whale-like from magnificent underwater rocky – Children welcome Glenbeg Lough, overlooking the middle of Coulagh Bay; Live Traditional/Folk Music the Kenmare River estuary outcroppings. Wed nights and Sunday Eve at 6pm. the Skellig Islands break Tel: 027 73008 / 027 73924 between the coast and the like mystical giants from the

Visit Dursey Island on Ireland’s only cable car! DURSEY Island lies at the cows also travelled frequently on southwestern tip of the Beara the cable car! Peninsula. This peaceful island Due to the high numbers of is connected to the mainland visitors, it is possible that no by Ireland’s only cable car and more visitors will be allowed on the only cable car that traverses the island after a certain time open seawater in all of Europe. in the afternoon. This is due to It is one of the great attractions the need to remove all visitors of the island and people travel from the island before the cable from far and wide to give it a go. car closes, at a rate of 6 people The journey takes about 10 per 15 minutes. Therefore, it is minutes, crossing the infamous advisable to try to visit the island seabirds and activities on the tip of the Beara peninsula) Dursey Sound where strong in the morning or early afternoon island include bird, whale and June – September, Monday to tides make travelling by boat to ensure you are able to get on. dolphin watching. Sunday 9.30am - 8pm. hazardous. Until very recently Dursey Island is well known Cable Car Timetable For the rest of year check sheep and animals such as for its nesting colonies of (departs from Ballaghboy on the www.durseyisland.ie. 48 ALLIHIES, EYERIES & ARDGROOM

€7 Served 12-2pm BEARA BOWL Nutritious, gluten-free and vegan meal

CAFÉ | WALKS | DAILY MEDITATION | ACCOMMODATIONSelection Of Salads And Vegetables | RETREATS Topped With Organic Quinoa, Wild Atlantic Seaweed, Fresh Greens From Our Garden, Dressed With Ginger, Garranes, Allihies, Beara Peninsula, West CorkTurmeric And Donegal Rapeseed Oil.

www.dzogchenbeara.org [email protected] | 02773032ra.org Enquiries: 027 73032 Dzogchen Beara, Allihies, West Cork Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Meditation RegisteCentrered charity: CHY9368 LOCATED in one of the most selected gifts and relax with Dzogchen Beara holds a rooms purpose-built to provide inspiring locations in Ireland, a book on the terrace with its public programme of events a sense of space and ease. Dzogchen Beara welcomes wide ocean view. based on the wisdom and Support for those facing life visitors all year round. Drop Meditation: Every Day compassion of Tibetan challenges, such as ill-or burn- in any day to savour home- 9–9.45am, Loving Kindness: Buddhism, including retreats out is available on request; baked treats, to sample Mon to Fri 3-4pm. You won’t led by world-renowned Biodynamic Craniosacral a free guided meditation have to sit in lotus posture, Tibetan and Western teachers Therapy available by (perfect for beginners), ramble chairs are provided! and a range of meditation appointment. coastal meadows or to relax Failte Ireland approved weekends, most of which are For information visit www. in beautiful gardens with self-catering accommodation suitable for beginners. You dzogchenbeara.org, call spectacular Atlantic views. includes secluded cliff-top can also see the construction 027 73032 email info@ The friendly cafe offers cottages , en-suite private of Ireland’s first Buddhist dzogchenbeara.org or gourmet coffees and teas, rooms with ocean-view temple, where future retreats find Dzogchen Beara on tasty snacks and delicious conservatories (breakfast will be held. Facebook, Twitter and lunches, cooked with local included) and Garranes The Spiritual Care Centre Instagram. organic ingredients. Browse Farmhouse Hostel. at Dzogchen Beara offers

BEARA HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY A peninsula steeped in celtic and copper history OVER 500 archaeological signposted along the Beara Eoghan was badly wounded Having fully recovered, sites and monuments are Way walking route. The in the battle. Those of his Eoghan and his followers then recorded in Beara indicating spectacular remains of the followers who survived took sailed southwards until they human activity going back castle of Dunboy was once him to Inish Greaghraighe reached Spain. While there he over 4,500 years or more. the seat of O’Sullivan Bere. (now known as Bere Island) met and married the princess They include wedge tombs, How Beara got its name: as a safe place for him to Beara, daughter of the King boulder burials, stone circles, According to the ancient recover. There, the fairy of Castille. Wishing to return standing stone rows, pre- annals, Conn Cead Cathach Eadaoin (Aideen) took him to Ireland, Eoghan and Beara historic copper mines, fulacht (Con of the Hundred Battles) to her grianán (bower) where sailed north from Spain with fiadh (prehistoric cooking fought a fierce battle against she nursed him back to a large army and landed in sites), ringforts, souterrain Eoghan (Owen) Mór, King health. Nowadays, this part Greenane of the south side etc. to name but a few. Many of Ireland at Cloch Barraige of Bere Island is known as of Bere Island. Owen took of the prehistoric sites are in the early centuries AD. Greenane. his wife to the highest point 49 BEARA HISTORY & ARCHAEOLOGY on the island and, looking constantly pumping out about mining, geology, and across the harbour, he water for deeper and deeper local history. named the island and the mining, driving winding gear From Allihies, the road peninsula, Beara, in honour and lowering the miners, via winds through spectacular of his wife. Rossmacowen Ireland’s only Man-Engine, to sea and mountain scenery and Buaile Owen are named depths far beyond the level of and continues on to the award after Eoghan Mór. According the ocean. winning tidy village of Eyeries. to local tradition, Eoghan’s For most of the nineteenth Continue on through Eyeries wife, Princess Beara, is century Allihies echoed with and visit Ireland’s tallest buried in the west side of the the sound of giant machinery ogham stone at Ballycrovane. Castletownbere. Go to the valley between Maulin and crushing the quartz rock, A little further on, the Olde Bakery at the top of the Knocknagree Mountains. which held the copper ore. legendary Cailleach Beara is town, take the road to the In recent years, Dressing and separating the signposted beside the road. right and follow it up for about archaeologists have found ore was an arduous task for She is looking out to sea and 2 miles (at the junction keep evidence for a Viking harbour man and machine and the is awaiting the return of her left). The circle is on your at Lonehort on the south-east resulting ore was shipped to husband Manannan Mac Lir to right. There is a small parking side of Bere Island. In addition Swansea for smelting. set her free again. area on your left opposite the to Martello towers and signal Streams of water ran from entrance to the field. towers, Bere Island has many the dressing floors down to Archaelogical sites: military fortifications since the Ballydonegan Beach, passing Kilcatherine Cemetery is period of a British garrison on through the huts and mud Ardgroom Stone Circle well worth a visit. Follow the the island. The island now has hovels that gave shelter to stands in a field a couple coast road from Eyeries to its own well laid out Heritage hundreds of Irish labourers of miles from the village of Ardgroom, you come across Centre, where the history and their families. Allihies Ardgroom. To find it, go to it soon after passing the Hag of the island is graphically was overcrowded, with each the Post Office then head in of Beara. The Cemetery is presented. dwelling in the village housing the direction of Kenmare for thought to have been built by Dursey Island, off the at least 25 inhabitants. At the approx. two miles, look for the same monks who built western tip of the peninsula, height of its operation, the a minor road coming in from the beehive monastery on is the only island in Ireland mines employed almost 1500 your right and a signpost Skellig Michael. Some of the linked to the main land by people. pointing to the circle. headstones are ancient, one an overhead cable car. In The mines eventually Cashakeelty Stone Circle of them just a cross, hewn the Viking period the island closed in 1884. There was a stands high up in the out of rock. There is also a was used as a holding place subsequent working of the mountains, and yet is easy famous Gargoyle on the south for women hostages taken mines in the 1920s and further enough to reach. If walking side of the church known as along the Irish coast and who exploratory work from 1957 the Beara Way you will pass ‘the cat’s face’. were later traded in southern to 1962, which declared the through it on your way from Leitrim Beg Wedge Grave Europe. There is spectacular mines to be no longer viable, Ardgroom to Lauragh. If you stands in a farmer’s field near scenery and sign-posted proving that the nineteenth are on the Ring of Beara, Adrigole. Take the road east walking routes on the island. century miners had done a make your way from Lauragh from Massmount for about The Bull, Cow and Calf Rocks very thorough job. Post Office in the Ardgroom three miles, keep an eye out are off the western end of Allihies Copper Mine direction. Just before the for a sign pointing to your left. Dursey. Museum is retained in the road starts to snake there is a The colourful village of old Methodist church built in signpost with a parking area Cloontream Wedge Allihies looks out over the 1845 for immigrant Cornish beyond. Grave stands high above Atlantic Ocean. In 1812, life in miners. The museum is small Castletownbere. Follow the Allihies changed dramatically in size but densely packed Hag ‘An Chailleach Beara’: Beara Way from town. Behind when a rich copper deposit with fascinating information The Hag of Beara is the the Millbrook Bar, take the first was discovered in the area. narrator of the finest old Irish turn to your left and continue The biggest copper mining poem in existence. She is said on up it until you come to a enterprise in Ireland was then to have lived seven life times gate. Go on foot from here established by the Puxley before being turned to stone. for about two miles and you family and this brought the She is mentioned in verse will see it off to your left. Fine Industrial Revolution to this by Padraig Pearse “Mise views can be had from it. remote corner of Ireland. Éire Siné mé ná an Cailleach This is the extraordinary Béara”. The rock lies beside Standing stone: You will story of exemplary the coast road from Eyeries to see this standing stone as engineering coupled with Ardgroom on the Kilcatherine you walk the Beara Way from less than exemplary social Peninsula. Find the turn to Glengarriff to Bonane. If you conditions. The evidence of Loch Fada, keep on coast are carrying a map note where this industry is to be seen all road for another mile and it the woodland area starts and around Allihies in the form is on your left at the top of a then look over to your right of the large Cornish engine steep hill. (if heading towards Bonane). houses that housed the The stone is half a mile or so Derreenataggart magnificent steam engines away, but well worth finding. Stone Circle is close to that made the mining possible, 50 BEARA WALKING & CYCLING

Beara View by John Eagle

The Beara Way The Beara Way was established by a local voluntary group are delightful views of route reaches the public road in the early 1990s as a co-operative involving upwards Bantry Bay and Cnoc Baoi, close to Massmount on the of 400 landowners. It is a 196km circular route through the highest peak in Co. Adrigole side. Without stops, magnificently rugged mountain and seacoast scenery Cork. The track drops to allow 4-5 hours to complete which frequently passes by rich evidence of a heavily meet the tarred road for a this section. There are populated prehistoric past in the form of standing stones further 3–4 km after which also great views of Bantry and burial monuments. There are also many fine villages walkers negotiate a series of Bay and the Sheep’s Head along the route. well-signed junctions, cross Peninsula. Terrain consists of mainly quiet tarmac roads, bog the Coomhola River and roads, cliff and woodland paths and open moorland, some subsequently head off-road 3. Adrigole to sections of which can be quite rough and remote. The total again onto the shoulder of Castletownbere aggregate ascent is nearly 5300m over the whole route Cobduff. This gentle climb This section is the longest and includes some short but steep climbs. Availability of affords yet more views of the on The Beara Way and overnight accommodation is generally good along the justly famous Bantry Bay. takes 5-6 hours. Should route although some of the longer stretches between The route descends to join you choose to leave the villages may require careful planning. A loop of the route the busy N71 for the last route earlier, numerous circumnavigates Bere Island with its great forts, and a spur 5km walk into Glengarriff. signed paths lead down Allow approximately 3-4 to the R572. The walking takes you out (by an exciting trip on Ireland’s only cable- hours in total. route follows the length of car) to sparsely inhabited Dursey Island. Adrigole parish and then 2. Glengarriff to Adrigole off road to pass along the 1. Kealkill to Glengarriff junction, and Glengarriff- The route takes walkers into foot of Hungry Hill and the Walkers for both Glengarriff bound walkers are directed Glengarriff Woods Nature Slieve Mishkish mountains. and Ballingeary should left along a quiet winding Reserve. The route enters En route to Castletownbere, follow the winding road round for 1–2 km then off- Coomerkane Valley and there are a number of from Carriganass Castle road onto a track, which rises up to a height of 500m archaeological features into the foothills of the Caha climbs over the moorland north of Sugarloaf Mountain; worth seeing including a mountains. This spur meets area known as ‘The Bull’s caution to be taken on this cairn, a megalithic tomb, the main route at a signed Pocket’. From here, there high mountain pass. The standing stones, fulacht fia 51 BEARA WALKING & CYCLING

(pre-historic cooking places) Dursey Island. The last 2km the foot of Tooreennamna. shoulder of Knockagarrane and a Mass Rock. There are of this route uses the main The area is rich in prehistoric to delight in views of the stunning views of Adrigole road, which can be busy in monuments, the most Clonee Lakes below and Harbour, Berehaven and the tourist season. Please accessible of which is Kenmare Bay and the Bere Island. be aware that there is no Ardgroom (Canfea) stone Iveragh Peninsula beyond. mobile/cell phone coverage circle. The route converges Dropping to skirt the shore, 4. Bere Island or public phones at the with the main road for the route continues through The walks on Bere Island western tip of the peninsula. several kilometres and a mountain pass and the are comprised of Ardnakinna caution is urged until the austere beauty of the Loop (3-4 hours) and a 7. Allihies to Eyeries disused track, along which Caha landscape - the most shorter East End Loop (1-2 This is a 3-4 hour walk. the trail continues, is isolated stretch of this 5 - 6 hours). To complete both, Leaving Allihies, the route reached. A tranquil valley hour section. The trail joins allow 5-6 hours. Travelling in passes the tall chimney provides respite from the a lonely tarred road through an anti-clockwise direction known as the North Engine motorised world, and the rugged mountain scenery around the Ardnakinna and follows an old disused trail continues through for many kilometres until the Loop, there are fantastic mining track and mountain part of the Dereen Estate, main N71 is reached and views across to Berehaven pass with magnificent views affording stunning views of followed – with caution - for and Dunboy Castle. At of Coulagh Bay. Mid-way Killmackillogue Harbour. To the final stretch into Bonane. Ardnakinna lighthouse, walkers can take the spur complete the route, follow the route turns inland but to Urhan for refreshments the winding backroads into 12. Bonane to Glengarriff rises so that the walker can or continue along off-road leafy Lauragh, paying careful This is 3-4 hour walk. Close enjoy spectacular views of tracks and quiet roads to attention to signage. This 3-4 to the start is the famous Bantry Bay and the Sheep’s reach the colourful village of hour section begins in Co. Bonane Heritage Park. Head Peninsula. The walk Eyeries. Cork but concludes in Co. The Park is unique in that connecting the Ardnakinna Kerry. This is a moderate it has an abundance of and West End Loops 8. Eyeries to Ardgroom walk - highest point 200m. well-preserved multi-period traverses the central ridge of This route, though only archaeological sites from the the island with breathtaking 3 - 4 hours in duration, 10. Lauragh to Tuosist Stone, Bronze and Iron Ages 360-degree views of Hungry is particularly notable Walkers should be aware right up to pre-famine times. Hill, Berehaven and Bantry for the variety of terrain that this route follows It includes Stone Circles, a Bay. The Ardnakinna Loop encountered. Departing tarred road for its entirety. Ringfort, a Standing Stone follows public roads with Eyeries Village along the Nonetheless, the section and a Fulacht Fiadh. The some short off-road sections. Coast Road, the route soon is short (about 2 -3 hours) Beara Way follows the old The walk passes through swings seawards to meet and uses quiet boreens Kenmare to Glengarriff Rerrin Village and has great the shoreline, passing the with limited traffic. Leaving road over Esk Mountain. At views of Hungry Hill. old Coastguard Station en Lauragh along the the top of the ridge, there route. Rejoining the Coast perimetre of the Dereen are panoramic views of 5. Castletownbere to Road, the route skirts scenic Estate, the road climbs the Kenmare Bay and Bantry Allihies Ballycrovane Harbour and gap between Knockatee Bay; then for the last 2 km, This 4-5 hour walk passes then runs inland and off-road and Knockanoughanish. walkers walk through the oak a number of archaeological along the southern bank of Pausing to turn, walkers can woods before descending to sites and through a state Lough Fadda (meaning Long appreciate the spectacular Glengarriff village. forest as it climbs towards Lake). However, walkers views of Dereen woods and Knockgour. The views of remaining on the Coast Kilmackillogue Harbour that Ballydonegan Bay, Cod’s Road, for the 1-kilometre the elevation affords. Up and Much of the Beara Way Head and Garinish are detour to the Hag of Beara over, the route descends traverses private lands. stunning on the approach to rock and Kilcatherine Church past a stone circle to reach a Access has been arranged the village of Allihies. beyond, will be agreeably signed junction. From here, by local community groups diverted. The final stretch walkers can continue north and is entirely dependent 6. Allihies to Dursey Sound finds the walker atop a ridge to Tuosist or turn east to on the goodwill of local This 4-5 hour walk passes with panoramic views of Bonane – an additional six landowners. Dogs are not Ballydonegan Beach and Kenmare Bay and Ardgroom hours walking. permitted on the Beara Way follows the coast with its harbour before descending as a condition of this access, fantastic views of the Skellig to the village below. Highest 11. Tuosist to Bonane and walkers are asked to and Scarrif Islands. At point 90m - easy walk. Departing Tuosist, walkers respect this. Please also Firkeel Gap, there are two must negotiate a series of be aware that the route possible routes to Dursey 9. Ardgroom to Lauragh junctions and a short stretch is closed to the public on Cable Car: take the Crow Leaving Ardgroom along a along the narrow and busy January 31st each year. Head route south with its back road running parallel to R571. However, once off- views of Bantry Bay and the main R571, walkers skirt road, the trail rises onto the

52 BEARA WALKING & CYCLING Beara Way Cycling Route The Beara Way Cycling Route is a National Cycling Route and for most parts is on country roads. The route travels along the entire Beara Peninsula passing through all the towns and villages along the way. The entire route is 138 kms. There is no start or finish so you can join the route in any town and village on the peninsula. The route is sign-posted with a logo and a bicycle symbol.

SECTION A: Bere Island. This is a circular Glengarriff - Adrigole route developed around 21kms: Bere Island. On Bere Island This route starts inside the you can find numerous Oak Woods just outside remains including two intact Glengarriff Village. It travels ‘6 guns’ that are remnants through the Oak Woods of the British military and and joins the main road naval base that was based at Shrone. It travels along there for years. On the south the main road over-looking side of the island a French Seal Harbour and Whiddy Armada longboat landed in Island. It then turns up the 1796 invasion of Cuan towards Lackavane, passing Baoi, which is now called archeological sites. Bantry Bay. The longboat is now the centrepiece of the Adrigole - Castletownbere Irish Maritime Museum. 16kms: Adrigole is the gateway SECTION C to the Ring of Beara. The Castletownbere Dursey Kilmackillogue Harbour in highest Waterfall in Ireland Sound and Eyeries 32kms: Lauragh, were planted 100 is located on the famous The route travels out to SECTION D years ago by the fifth Lord Hungry Hill. The Healy Pass Eyeries to Tuosist 28kms: Dursey Sound overlooking Lansdowne. The woodland road is a scenic mountain From Eyeries Village you Black Ball Head and finishes gardens contain many route linking both sides of travel along the coast at the cable car that is the azaleas and rhododendrons. the Peninsula, so you have through Kilcatherine passing most western point of the There is also a grove of the choice of taking the many shore angling sites on Beara peninsula. At this New Zealand tree ferns. Healy Pass or following the the way and then arriving point you now have the The route continues down route to Castletownbere into Ardgroom Village. option to take the cable car past Kilmackillogue Harbour along the main road, Ardgroom has two lakes, to Dursey Island and walking along the road to Tuosist. overlooking Berehaven part of the Beara Way, or Glenbeg and Derryvegal, harbour. travelling back on your bike both of which provide good and returning the same trout fishing. Beyond the SECTION E route for 4 kms where you village there is a perfect Tuosist to Glengarriff and SECTION B turn left into Allihies Village, example of a Stone spur to Kenmare 27kms: Bere Island 14kms: which overlooks the famous Circle, one of the many You now travel along to In Castletownbere you Ballydonegan Bay. archeological sites on the Dromoghty Cross and at this have the choice of taking The route continues Peninsula. The route travels junction you can either take two ferries: One from along the Coastal route, on the back road from the road to Kenmare which Castletownbere - West overlooking Kenmare Bay Ardgroom Village, passing links up with the Beara- End, Bere Island and and Coulagh Bay. Halfway the Stone Circle and on your Kilgarvan Cycling Route and the other from Pontoon along you arrive at Eyeries right you will see the Caha will bring you on to Killarney (which is located three Village. It has beautifully Mountain range. or turn right to Bunane and miles Glengarriff side of painted houses and a flower You then arrive in Lauragh take the tunnel road to Castletownbere beside display on nearly every and have the choice of Glengarriff. Berehaven Park Golf window. taking the Healy Pass. Course) - Rerrin Village, Derreen Gardens, beside

53 BEARA MAP

Looped Walks on Beara Way

Bonane Bonane heritage park

Bantry

Historical & archaeological sites The Beara Way Walking Route The Beara Way Cycling Route Shore Angling Sites The Beara Peninsula has numerous sites This is a long-distance walking route of 208 km that This route is a National Cycling Route and for most parts is on There are over 20 fishing spots signposted on of archaeological interest. In fact Beara winds its way through the peninsula. Using tracks, old country roads. It travels along the entire Beara Peninsula passing the Beara coastline where a visitor can fish. probably has more than any other area of roads and mountain paths, it takes in some of the most through all the towns and villages along the way, and is 138 km in No permit is needed, as this is sea fishing. comparable size in Ireland or Europe. breathtaking scenery in Ireland. It has no official total. There is no start or finish so you You can catch mackerel, pollock, conger, These sites, some of which date from beginning or ending and one can walk sections by can join the route in any town and wrasse etc. from these sites. Fishing rods and 2500BC , include single standing stones, following the easily recognised marking posts or a map. village on the peninsula. tackle can be purchased from most villages and towns. Please stone circles, cairns, souterrains, megalithic tombs, burial grounds, It provides a delightful and easy way to discover and explore the enquire locally about the best place to fish subject to weather forts, castles, signal towers etc. peninsula. The Beara Way booklet is available to purchase. conditions. If you have not fished on these coastal regions before, 54 we would recommend a local guide. BEARA MAP

Looped Walks on Beara Way

Bonane Bonane heritage park

Bantry

Historical & archaeological sites The Beara Way Walking Route The Beara Way Cycling Route Shore Angling Sites The Beara Peninsula has numerous sites This is a long-distance walking route of 208 km that This route is a National Cycling Route and for most parts is on There are over 20 fishing spots signposted on of archaeological interest. In fact Beara winds its way through the peninsula. Using tracks, old country roads. It travels along the entire Beara Peninsula passing the Beara coastline where a visitor can fish. probably has more than any other area of roads and mountain paths, it takes in some of the most through all the towns and villages along the way, and is 138 km in No permit is needed, as this is sea fishing. comparable size in Ireland or Europe. breathtaking scenery in Ireland. It has no official total. There is no start or finish so you You can catch mackerel, pollock, conger, These sites, some of which date from beginning or ending and one can walk sections by can join the route in any town and wrasse etc. from these sites. Fishing rods and 2500BC , include single standing stones, following the easily recognised marking posts or a map. village on the peninsula. tackle can be purchased from most villages and towns. Please stone circles, cairns, souterrains, megalithic tombs, burial grounds, It provides a delightful and easy way to discover and explore the enquire locally about the best place to fish subject to weather forts, castles, signal towers etc. peninsula. The Beara Way booklet is available to purchase. conditions. If you have not fished on these coastal regions before, 55 we would recommend a local guide. Our Window Furnishing Department offers a Full Bespoke Curtains & Blinds service

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