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Climbing out of Napa's Shadow

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Climbing out of Napa's Shadow Climbing Out of AVA Education Napa’s Winemaker Jeffrey Miller Shadow offers a perspective on the Suisun Valley AVA About the artist: San Francisco based artist The collectible status of her work is quickly Ann Rea created “End of Harvest” as part of increasing. Ann’s paintings, and her inspiring a series to celebrate the Suisun Valley’s 20th personal story, continue to receive national anniversary as an AVA. Rea is known for reviv- media attention. American art icon Wayne ing the tradition of the French Impressionists, Thiebaud has commended her talent, and she with a contemporary point of view. Winemak- has a growing list of collectors across the ers take her on a tour of their vineyards; she U.S., Canada and Europe. Her book, Colors of then plants her easel and paints in oil colors Terroir: Artist Ann Rea’s Tour of Sonoma, will inspired by seasonal light. soon be available on www.annrea.com. ou’ve probably never heard of Suisun Val- ley—few people have. Even fewer know Ywhere it is (nestled against the eastern side of the Napa Valley appellation). And fewer yet realize Close-Up: why they should know more about it. First, a little history. Suisun Valley labored in the Suisun Valley Winemaker Jeff Miller, shadow of its Napa neighbor for decades, produc- Seven Artisans ing grapes that were processed elsewhere, usually added to North Coast blends. effrey Miller started That was the valley’s general operating policy Ja second career as a until recent years. Then the economics of the grower and winemaker with lower-priced segment of the wine market changed property that he purchased dramatically; the Central Valley was able to grow in Napa Valley. Along with and sell grapes for less money than the coastal val- wife Beryl, he owns a small leys could. Since price, not quality, was what drove Napa vineyard and has 41 the lower end of the market, Suisun Valley couldn’t acres under cultivation in compete. the adjacent Suisun Val- Adding insult to injury, much of the valley had ley. been planted to Merlot, a varietal that has suffered a Miller has teamed with notorious slump in recent years. So, Suisun Valley Richard Burnley to create was hit with the so-called “double whammy.” several wine brands. In retrospect, however, this sad turn of events may Their common interest in have been a blessing in disguise. Unable to compete “man’s best friend” gave at the low end, the valley was forced (sometimes birth to the whimsical name kicking and screaming) to compete in the premium for their first brand, Sly Jeff Miller surveys his vine- marketplace. And it found that it could. Dog Cellars, a Lake County yards in Suisun Valley. Even though the valley is just east of the coolest Cabernet Sauvignon. In an parts of Napa Valley, it is sheltered from the cooling effort to differentiate their Suisun Valley wines, breezes and fog of San Francisco Bay by a range Red Côte was born as their dry rosé label, and of low hills. While some of the southern parts have Seven Artisans was created for a Meritage more temperate climates, most of Suisun Valley is blend as well as a Petite Sirah. hotter, more like Calistoga than Carneros, enabling it to excel at Rhône varieties. The Seven Artisans 2006 Mer- There are some excellent Syrahs here, but the itage, Suisun Valley, is a blend best grape in Suisun Valley is Petite Sirah. As of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi- grower Jim Parr is fond of saying, “You really have gnon, with small amounts to work hard to grow bad Petite Sirah in this val- of Petit Verdot and Malbec. ley.” These wines are marked by power, opulence Well-structured, and ripeness. When it comes to reds, the offerings with good acidity and dark from Suisun Valley are not for the faint of heart. fruit, it pairs well with rich The Suisun Valley AVA—measuring three by foods, especially lamb, beef eight miles and encompassing 15,000 acres, now and game. with 2,200 acres under vines—was created in 1982. The Red Côte 2008 Just a few years ago there were almost no wineries Rosé is, first and fore- in this grower-focused region, but the number has most, fruit-forward grown recently. There are currently six wineries in (strawberry and citrus), the AVA, and more than 20 producers are showcas- the result of a long, cool ing the appellation on their label. Some noted wine- fermentation. The low makers—including Matt Smith (Blacksmith Cellars 12.5% alcohol level, bright and Winterhawk), Larry Langbehn (Ledgewood fruit and high acidity result Creek) and myself (see sidebar)—are making wine in an off-dry wine that’s in the Valley. Napa Valley’s Olabisi Winery has also perfect for a hot summer produced several highly-rated wines from Suisun afternoon. The grapes, a Valley fruit. blend of Merlot and Syrah, “We were grape growers, but one of our were sourced from Seven strategies was to grow more wineries,” points out Artisans’ vineyards in Roger King, President of the Suisun Valley Grape Suisun Valley. Growers Association, “and that’s been a pretty big accomplishment.” august 2009 / the tasting panel / 57.
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