Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

CONTENTS PAGE

Figure 1. Site Location Map 3

Introduction 4

Background History of Largs 4

Prehistory and Archaeology 4

Ecclesiastical History 5

The Battle of Largs 6

Medieval and Post-Medieval Largs 7

Local Families 8

The Statistical Account 8

The 19th and 20th Centuries 9

A Brief History of Fairlie 11

General description 11

Prehistory 12

Fairlie Castle 12

Ecclesiastical History 12

Yacht Building 12

The Ordnance Survey Maps 14

Figure 2. Second Edition 1912 OS map 16

Figure 3. 1965 1:2,500 OS Map 17

Figure 4. Site Plan 18

Field Survey 19

Summary Discussion 22

Conclusions and Recommendations 22

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Figure 5. General view over the site to the S, Feature 1 23 CONTENTS PAGE

Figure 6. View to the S from southernmost point of land 23

Figure 7. Feature 1 slipway, view to the west 24

Figure 8. Feature 5 and Feature 6, view to the NW 24

Figure 9. Feature 3 burnt out cottage, view to the NW 25

Figure 10. Feature 4, the well, view to the N 25

Discovery and Excavation in Scotland entry 26

Bibliography and Map List 27

Acknowledgements 28

Report Distribution 28

Contents and Location of the Archive 28

Photographic Lists 29

Contact Addresses 30

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Introduction

Proposals to build a new yacht marina adjacent to the S side of Largs Yacht Haven are being developed by Fairlie Marina Ltd. As part of the environmental assessment Firat Archaeological Services (FAS) was contracted to undertake an archaeological assessment of the proposed development site.

The archaeological assessment consists of an examination of Second Edition and later OS maps; consultation of the National Monuments Record of Scotland; various documentary sources held at Ardrossan Library HQ and a walk-over survey of the proposed development site.

The site is located at NGR NS 209 566 at Kelburnfoot and extends into the sea. The land to the east of the Mean Low Water Springs belongs to Lord Glasgow and the shore and sea is the property of the Crown Estate. The proposed development area is bounded along its N side by the breakwater of Largs Yacht Haven and on the south by the Ministry of Defence pier and breakwater. The E boundary is formed by the Glasgow – Ayr railway line, the overall proposed development area measures approximately 700m N-S x 400m E-W. Only a small part of the proposed development is land (c. 375m N-S x 50m E-W), a larger portion is beach and the majority of the area under consideration is the sea. The field survey was restricted to the land and beach.

Background History of Largs

The town of Largs lies on the Ayrshire coast some 13 miles south of Greenock and has been a popular holiday destination and day-trip from Glasgow since the mid-19th century. The town first appears in historical record in the early 8th century when a church was founded there. The village of Fairlie is situated approximately two and a half miles south of Largs. Fairlie is a quoad sacra parish within the Parish of Largs, which is in the Presbytery of Greenock and Synod of Glasgow and Ayr in the Cunninghame District of Ayrshire, now North Ayrshire. Largs is best known in history for the Battle of Largs in 1263 and is the larger of the two towns. The history of Largs is given first as it is the larger town and had more influence over the local area followed by a brief history of Fairlie.

Prehistory and Archaeology A neolithic chambered tomb known as Margaret’s Law is located to the rear of the mansion house at Haylie, in Douglas Park. This chambered tomb was excavated in 1780 and found to contain five stone coffins containing skulls and other human bones as well as human bones and urns above and about the cists. The site was suspected as being a burial place of the Vikings and was interpreted as such following this excavation, when it became known as Haco’s tomb.

One other tumulus, known as Greenhill, is reported in the 1855 Ordnance Survey Gazetteer at the entrance to Hawkhill House. An artificial mound rising to 100 feet in height is also reported beside Skelmorlie Castle. This mound was excavated by Dr

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Phene who discovered a curved paved platform, lots of charcoal and bone fragments. Dr Phene interpreted the site as a ritual site associated with sun worship, serpent worship and sacrifice, which were popular antiquarian beliefs at the time.

Near to the Old Parish Church burial ground an earthen mound originally considered by the locals to be the gallows hill used to exist. This tumulus is described in the Ordnance Survey Gazetteer as measuring 25 yards long by 9 yards broad and 5 feet high. It was excavated in 1873 by Dr Phene who then interpreted it as the burial place of the Vikings who fell in the Battle of Largs. The description of the excavations indicates that the three Bronze Age cist burials that were excavated within the town in the later 18th century described under the Statistical Account section is the site excavated by Dr Phene.

A vitrified hillfort of Iron Age date crowns Knock Hill and is clearly visible throughout the district. There is also a fort on top of Castle Hill. No further information was readily available on prehistoric remains in the vicinity of Largs.

The Ordnance Survey Gazetteer of 1855 notes that Roman coins and tiles had been excavated in the vicinity of the town and that the discovery of a Roman bathhouse is reported in 1820.

Ecclesiastical History

Source: Rev. John Dow 1842 The New Statistical Account. A church was founded in Largs in the early 8th century and it is thought the earliest church was dedicated to St Columba. The church was certainly in existence by the Battle of Largs in 1263 and the Norwegian account states that a number of the dead were buried there.

In 1318-19 the church of Largs and all its tithes were granted to Paisley Abbey by Water the Steward on behalf of himself and his wife Marjorie Brus. The grant would come into effect on the death of the then rector Sir William de Lindsay and the gift ensure a safe passage to heaven for Walter and his wife. In 1319 John Wishart, Bishop of Glasgow confirmed the grant to Paisley and the church continued to be a possession of the Monastery of Paisley until after the Reformation.

In 1587 Lord Claud Hamilton, the commendator of Paisley obtained a grant of the patronage and tithes of the church of Largs and the other considerable revenues of the Paisley monks. This was then created into a lordship for him and his heirs with the title Lord Paisley.

In 1649, at the time of the plague in Largs, there was a proposal to move the church to the southern part of the parish but this was abandoned for a number of reasons, a main one being the lack of a bridge over the Gogo River.

In the time of Charles I the patronage and tithes of Largs passed from the Earl of Abercorn (Claud Hamilton’s grandson) to Sir Robert Montgomery of Skelmorlie. Sir Robert is responsible for one of Largs’ major landmarks, the Skelmorlie Aisle. The

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs patronage remained in the Montgomery family which in 1796 succeeded to the Earldom of Eglinton.

In the burial ground of the former parish church of Largs is the Skelmorlie Aisle, which is all that survives of the former parish church, which was demolished in 1802. Sir Robert Montgomerie built the Skelmorlie Aisle in 1636 as a burial place for himself and his wife Dame Margaret Douglas. The Aisle is famous for it’s early 17th century painted ceiling which is most unusual in a religious building and also for a 5.4m high elaborate carved burial monument in the Dutch style which is without parallel in Scotland. This monument, in the form of a triumphal archway would originally have been painted like the armorial panel above the door.

Also in the burial ground is the grave of Sir Thomas Brisbane who was appointed governor general of Australia in 1821 and the Brisbane Family is frequently noted in the history of the parish of Largs and their legacy is reflected in the place names in the vicinity of Netherhall. There is also a reconstructed Bronze Age burial cist that was found elsewhere in the parish and relocated to the graveyard. In historical sources a medieval gallows mound is reputed to have stood nearby the church but it appears this reference is actually to the neolithic chambered tomb of Margaret’s Law.

Rev. Dow, in the New Statistical Account, lists the ministers of the church since the time of the reformation and notes that he took up his post in 1831. Rev. Dow’s stipend for the Parish of Largs was 128 bolls of meal, 128 bolls of barley and £10 in money.

Fairs The festival of St. Columba was traditionally held on the 9th of June ‘Combsday’ and celebrated the dedication of the parish church. The New Statistical account describes the popularity of the fair, then held on the second Tuesday of June, dwindling away due to the easy movement of goods by steam- ships. The Rev. Dow still regarded the fair as important as a cattle fair but its nights of ‘frivolous amusement, which frequently ended in riot’ were long gone.

The Battle of Largs

In 1263 the Scots led by Alexander III defeated a Norse Army led by King Haakon IV of Norway. This battle, though it is thought to have been more of a skirmish than a great battle, was a pivotal event in the unification of Scotland. In 1098 King Edgar had been forced to cede the western isles including Kintyre, ‘all the isles round which a ship could sail’, to Magnus Barelegs of Norway who threatened with a great fleet. The western isles were a law unto themselves, quite separate from mainland Scotland and a number of great chiefs emerged, Lords of the Isles, the most famous probably being Somerled (1126-1164). Alexander III decided he wanted the western isles back as part of his Kingdom of Scotland. King Alexander offered to buy the Hebrides back but Haakon refused. The Scots continued raiding the western isles and when King Haakon heard of a raid on Skye he gathered his fleet and set sail to Scotland.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs King Haakon sailed first to Shetland and Orkney then Stornoway, Kyleakin and Oban. At every settlement he gathered loyal reinforcements including Manx ships. The fleet rounded Kintyre and gave protection to Saddell Abbey, captured Dunaverty and sailed into Lamlash Bay, Arran with 200 ships. King Alexander at Ayr exchanged embassies with Haakon but while this diplomacy went on Haakon allowed some of his ships to raid Bute and Loch Lomond and paraded the main fleet past Ayr before anchoring off Largs. Despite King Alexander’s characteristic attempts at diplomacy the Norsemen would settle for nothing less than battle and the two sides met on 30 September 1263.

Just after the Autumnal equinox, an equinoctial tide brought storms causing some of the ships to be wrecked and during the five days of fighting neither side could deploy fully due to the weather. The exact location of the battle is unknown although more than one source repeats the local tradition that it took place on the shore at Haylie. It was a confused skirmish but when good weather broke on 5 October King Haakon withdrew. Despite the Norsemen’s initial eagerness to fight, King Haakon’s fleet broke up and there were no more raids. Haakon died soon afterwards in December in Orkney. King Haakon’s successor, his son, Magnus V, accepted Alexander III’s offer, (Treaty of Perth, 1266), and the King of Man submitted to Scotland at Dumfries. The peace was truly sealed when Alexander’s daughter Margaret married Haakon’s grandson, Eric II of Norway in 1281.

The Battle of Largs is commemorated by the Pencil Monument to the south of the town, the visitor attraction Vikingar and by an annual Viking festival event.

Medieval and Post-Medieval Largs

Source: Rev. John Dow 1842 The New Statistical Account.

In the mid-12th century King Malcolm IV (‘The Maiden’, died 1165, age 23) granted Sir Richard Morville, Great Constable of Scotland, and Lord of Cunninghame, Largs and Lauderdale. This suggests Largs and Cunninghame were distinct territories at this time. The De Morvilles’ titles and lands passed by a female heir to the Lord of Galloway in 1234. Alan of Galloway’s daughter, Devorguilla, inherited the Lordship of Largs, along with much of Galloway and parts of Aberdeenshire and Angus.

Devorguilla is a fascinating figure in Scotland’s medieval history. She married John de Balliol of Barnard Castle, County Durham and the couple were active in Anglo- Scots politics. John and Devorguilla had seven children and in the honour of Huntingdon she transmitted a claim to the throne to her only surviving son, John Balliol, later the competitor for the crown. Devorguilla’s husband John died in 1268 and she had his heart embalmed and encased in an ivory casket. She would have this shrine placed in front of her at meals when she gave its share of every dish to the poor. In her widowhood Devorguilla erected a Dominican Friary at Wigtown, Franciscan Friaries at Dundee and Dumfries and founded Sweetheart Abbey. She also endowed a hostel for poor scholars at Oxford, later Balliol College. When she died at Buittle Castle in 1290 she was buried in her abbey with the casket containing her husband’s heart in her arms.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

In relation to her Lordship of Largs, she made a generous grant to Robert, Bishop of Glasgow of the lands and pastures of Cunninghame and of Rysdale. In the Lordship of Largs she granted 24 acres of ‘Baliollands’ and further land in the settlement. This grant was confirmed by Alexander III. On Devorguilla’s death the Lordship of Largs passed to her son John Balliol who of course forfeited it on the accession of Robert Bruce. Bruce conferred the lordship on his son-in-law Walter the Steward. Largs and Cunninghame are identified as separate districts in 14th century charters but in the late 14th century Robert II placed them under the charge of one bailie after which they both became known as the Bailiary of Cunninghame.

During the reign of James I (1394-1437) there was a dispute between the Abbot of Paisley and Robert Boyd of Tynwald over the tithes of the church of Largs. The King wrote a stiff letter to Robert Boyd that appears to have settled the matter in the Abbey’s favour.

In 1644 Largs was struck by the plague and it appears a considerable number of people died in the outbreak. The minister of the time, Rev. William Smith died of the plague and is buried in Brisbane Woods at a place known in the late 19th century as the Prophet’s Grave. When Rev. Smith was dying he said that two holly trees should be planted at either end of his grave and prevented from ever meeting and that if this was done the plague would never again strike Largs. The grave and holly trees were still maintained in the later 19th century. Financial assistance to help the plague struck town was sent by the surrounding parishes.

Local Families

In the New Statistical Account Rev. Dow gives a brief history of the ancient families of Largs Parish. These families and the dates given for their first mention are: Fairlie of that Ilk (1335); Boyle of Kelburn (1296); Brisbane of that Ilk (c.1400, Frazer of Knock (c. 1400); Montgomery of Skelmorlie (1461) and Wilson of Haylie (1483).

The Statistical Account

In 1790 Sir John Sinclair sent out a request to all the Parish ministers in Scotland to produce an account of their parish. The result, The Statistical Account is a valuable source of information for the end of the 18th century. The minister in Largs at this time was Gilbert Lang who starts his report describing the lovely situation of Largs and notes that it was sometimes called ‘The Montpelier of Scotland’. Lang notes that the summer holiday trade was already in existence and that more people would come if there were better accommodation.

The soil of the parish is described as light, shallow and gravellish and that it did not produce enough corn to support the population. In general the standard of cultivation appears to have been poor but with very good pasture. Sheep and black cattle were fattened in the parish and a lot of butter was produced.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs The population of the parish in 1790 was about 1139 with about half of the population living in Largs itself. Rev. Lang notes that the countryside population was decreasing and the town increased in size and population. The minister comments on the lack of coal within the parish and that this restricted industrial activities. The majority of the population were weavers, particularly silk-weavers employed by the Paisley factories. The trades people are listed as 66 weavers; 29 carpenters; 10 shoemakers; 7 tailors; 5 smiths; 5 coopers and 4 masons. Lang notes that fishing was in decline and there was no smuggling to speak of. There were also a number of corn merchants who bought corn from Bute, the Cumbraes, Ireland and Southern Scotland. The minister also mentions the annual fair held in Largs every midsummer on St Cosme or Come’s day. The New Statistical Account of 1842 details this as in honour of St Columba and held on the second Tuesday of June.

Rev. Lang mentions the castle at Kilmorly and the Old Castle at Knock as well as Knock Fort, Skelmorlie Aisle, Kelburn House and the Battle of Largs. On the plain where the town of Largs is the minister describes a field full of stone cairns where local tradition held that those who died in the battle were buried. A standing stone some ten feet long which had fallen by 1790 was believed to have been erected as a grave marker for a chieftain who died in the battle of Largs. Two ‘Danish Axes’ were found in this field. Lang also notes local place names such as Killing Craig and Burly Gate as evidence of the Battle of Largs.

The minister also relates the discovery of three stone coffins or cists under a stone cairn at some unidentified piece of ‘rising ground’ in the town. The cists contained a broken earthen urn and a mouldering piece of bone and calcined (burnt) bones. Local tradition held that a chapel had stood on this site but the description indicates Bronze Age burials.

The 19th and 20th Centuries

The New Statistical Account (1842) and The Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland (1885) were both consulted to provide background information on Largs.

The 1842 New Statistical Account of Largs was written by the then minister Rev. John Dow and is a much more extensive account then his predecessor Rev. Lang’s account of 1790. By 1842 the town was described as a ‘favourite and fashionable watering place’ and the season extended from late May until mid-October. The population of the parish was 3554 in 1842 and could increase between 300 and 1000 people during the holiday season.

The geology of the parish is described as Old Red Sandstone that also contained conglomerate sandstone. There is a small coalfield at Quarter but of no use for mining being mostly limestone and shale. Greenstone dykes running N-S occasionally occurred in the Old Red Sandstone and only two alluvial gravel plains at the head of Noddle Water and Largs Bay itself. The soil is again described as poor with only the two alluvial areas being suitable for cultivation. The sandstone escarpment to the north of Largs is also remarked upon.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Rev. Dow appears to have been a keen naturalist and there are sections on Conchology, Zoology, Ornithology and Botany with all of the species identified. This particularly detailed Statistical Account also notes the population statistics and their religious affiliations and occupations. Weaving was still the dominant occupation although muslin rather than silk was now the main textile.

The parish extended to c. 37 ½ square miles, the vast majority of the land was moor, then pasture and meadow with only about 6% under the plough. The rotation of the hay crop, other crops, dairy and meat and sheep which numbered 4680 at this time are all described. Dow notes ‘the old practice of hiring horses is now almost exploded’. Hiring of horses was a major source of agricultural income in 1790 but by 1840 it was almost extinct which reflects the great changes that occurred in Scotland in the early 19th century. The minister goes on the describe the ‘Great Improvements’ that had taken place on all the various estates in particular tree planting and drainage works and what happened on which estate.

There is a very full description of drain excavation and construction including dimensions and of particular notice is work undertaken at Knock

A section on the Parochial Economy describes the roads, pier, Fairlie Village, houses and harbour which was built in 1834 at a cost of £4275. It also notes the only public building was the Baths with a hot bath, cold bath, and ‘spacious billiard and reading room’. The Baths were built in 1816 and by 1885 were in use as a public hall. There were two libraries, two banks and a gasworks. A parochial school was founded in Largs in 1696 but it was not until 1809 a formal school house was built. Altogether there were four schools in the parish with a total school roll of 428.

The valued rent of the parish was £3802 in 1842 and the minister gives a list of the main proprietors with their income. The Earl of Glasgow and Sir Thomas Macdougall Brisbane were the wealthiest men in the parish and John Wilson of Knock the fourth out of 19 listed landowners. Dow also notes that the real rental of the parish was £7500.

Rev. Dow gives a full account of the ecclesiastical history and civil history of the town and these are summarised above.

In 1885 the Ordnance Survey Gazetteer gives a summary of the history and present state of affairs in Largs. The majority of the information has already been given in the summaries of the Statistical Accounts although some dates and details are slightly different between all the accounts. This is normal and only consultation of the original sources would address these minor discrepancies although they are not significant in such a general review as this.

The Gazetteer notes that the extension of the railway line from Fairlie to Largs was about to take place in 1885 and this work was completed in the late 1880s. By 1885 local amenities had increased and improved to include a Head Post Office, 5 hotels, 2 bowling greens, a yacht club, agricultural society, 18 insurance companies, a fever hospital and a mechanics library as well as a number of local clubs and societies. With the exception of a little fishing, a corn and saw mill on the Gogo river and

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs another mill on the Noddle there was very little trade or industry on the town which by this time already relied heavily on the tourist trade.

The arrival of the railway transformed Largs and during the Glasgow Fair the population could treble to 30,000. The famous Art Deco Nardini’s Café on the promenade is a survivor of Largs’ holiday hey-day but after the Second War the traditional seaside holiday declined in popularity to the present day although Largs still remains a nostalgic and favourite day-trip in the West of Scotland.

A Brief History of Fairlie

General Description The coastal village of Fairlie is located about two and a half miles south of Largs and was a small fishing village with a population of 140, up until the 18th century. By the early 19th century it had grown into a reasonable sized village with several villas, two churches, two inns, two railway stations, a school and post office with banking facilities. One of the railway stations was located on the steamboat pier, which was built at the same time in 1822. A railway line linking Fairlie and Largs was built in the late 1880s. The population of the parish grew markedly in the later 19th century rising from 294 in 1871 to 672 in 1881.

Fairlie is recorded as a small fishing village prior to the 16th century. Strawthorn points out in his 3rd Statistical Account of 1956, that the fishing industry was still important to the village in the mid-20th century when kippering brought 30 – 40 seasonal workers into the village every year. Weaving also became more important to the villages prosperity as the demand for ‘Paisley’ shawls increased. The cottages now known as Burnfoot, below Fairlie Castle were known as Weaver’s Row at this time.

J. Millar in Scottish Local History Volume 30, notes many aspects of the nature of the village and the life on its inhabitants. He describes that further to the north of Weaver’s Row was the "middle row" (Ferry Row), where the fishermen and ferrymen lived. Still further north was "north row", now Bay Street was a small group of modest dwellings. The dwellers kept pigs and hens and grew their own fruit and vegetables. The more affluent also had a cow. The villagers would have procured other necessities from travelling peddlers and would have only travelled to the market in Largs (by foot) occasionally for example on fair days such as Hyndman’s market or Colm’s (Columba's) Day fair. The old cottages, in time, were improved and some enlarged, new buildings were erected. Some of the originals are Rockhaven (the Ferry Inn), Fairlie Lodge, Beach House, Allanbank, Fairlie Cottage and part of Brookside.

Until the building of the turnpike road in the 18th century, Fairlie was landlocked and fully dependent on the sea for transportation and hence small ferries were important. The remains of the old ferry quay can still be seen in the area of Ferry Row. This became known as ‘Knox's Rocks’ as Knox White, an old Fairlie man, hired boats in this area in the 1920s and 30s.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs The turnpike road was built from Greenock to Stranraer in the 18th century and merchants and master mariners began to move into Fairlie. The channel between Fairlie and Cumbrae (Fairlie Roads) was a popular anchorage for merchant shipping, mainly to avoid the dangers of press-gangs at Greenock and the customs and excise could be avoided more easily at Fairlie.

Today Fairlie is largely a retirement and commuting village.

Prehistory No information on prehistoric remains in Fairlie has come to light during the course of this study, which has concentrated on the post-medieval period.

Fairlie Castle The ruins of this castle are located on Fairlie Burn and to the E of the village is a rounded knoll above a waterfall on Fairlie Burn to the E of the village. Pont describes the ruin as ‘Fairlie Castell is a strong toure and very ancient beautified with orchards and gardens. It belongs to Fairlie de eodem, cheiffe of ther name’ (NSA p804) This romantic situation was the seat of the Fairlies of that Ilk who appear in local history from the 14th to 18th century. The Fairlie or Fairley family first appear in history in 1335 when William de Fairlie is included in a list of 20 Scotsmen pardoned by King Edward III for all the crimes they had committed against the English. (RGS Vol. I, p381) The burgh of barony belonged to the Fairlies of that Ilk for some 400 years before being sold to David, Earl of Glasgow in the early 18th century and with whose descendants it still remains.

Other sources claim the Fairlies were descendants of a natural son of King Robert II, which places part of the family line at the end of the 14th century. The castle itself, a square tower is believed to date to 1521. It is an abandoned ruin which was perhaps abandoned in favour of Kelburn House which dates back as far as 1581.

Ecclesiastical History The burial ground is located in the middle of the town and is at least medieval in its foundation. The old parish Church was removed in 1812, the site is identified on the modern 1:10,000 OS map, and a new church was built to replace it. Seating for 900 in the 1812 church was found to be insufficient and cross aisles were added to its eastern side in 1832 creating room for another 432 people. The original manse was located by the old parish church until it was sold in 1764 when a new house was built on part of the glebe land, which extended to 7 acres.

Yacht Building It was during the 18th and 19th centuries with the growing prosperity of Fairlie that yacht building became an important enterprise to the village. William Fife established the first yacht building yard in 1803 at the age of 18 or 19 and went on to create a very successful business with a substantial reputation that lasted generations.

Early OS maps indicated the site of a smithy owned by Adam French and a sawpit which was the original boat building site. M. Fife-McCallum in the book Fast and

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Bonnie describes the development of the yard. Initially the boats were constructed outdoors where William Fife rented the foreshore from the Earl of Glasgow for one shilling a year. Adam French became Fife’s supplier of quality iron fittings for his boats. By the age of 22, Fife had gained a reputation for his work and as the yard became more successful the rent was raised to £1 per annum and as his success continued he released himself from feudal control altogether.

Industrialisation in Glasgow had brought considerable new wealth to the Clyde and produced a number of wealthy individuals whose leisure pursuits favoured water sport and created a demand for cruising and racing yachts. Fife’s first major yacht was the 50 ton Lamlash in 1812, (Fife McCallum, (1998) p.5). With the advent of steam propulsion in 1813, William was approached by a consortium of ship owners to build a steamer, resulting in the paddle steamer Industry, launched in 1814, the seventh steamship to be built on the Clyde. It was built of oak from Kilbirnie and was powered by an engine from Thomson of Glasgow. The spur gearing driving the paddles made such a distinctive grinding noise it became known, affectionately, as the Coffee Mill. It had a working life of 55 years and was finally broken up in 1882. Its long and popular reputation earned it free entry to every port on the Clyde.

According to J. Millar in The Fife’s of Fairlie the mainstay of the business was in the building of the smaller fishing type vessels, the commission of a larger yacht was a bonus and his reputation grew. One of his many achievements was the 30-ton cutter Gleam, built in 1812 to the order of an Irish owner, Mr Gore-Booth. It became the foremost racing boat on the Clyde. Throughout the years of the Fife Yard’s existence emphasis was placed on first class workmanship and top quality materials and the company’s reputation increased with each succeeding generation. William II was probably a better businessman than his father, extending the yard and building 'on spec'. In 1880 for the first time, covered accommodation was built for the construction of the yachts.

Increasing prosperity on the Clyde saw the growth of yacht clubs and by 1870 yacht racing was flourishing on the Firth of Clyde. William Fife III was born in 1857, and he too showed promise as a first class designer and builder of yachts. After spending some time with his father, he moved to ‘Fullerton of Paisley’, where he gained experience in designing steel merchant ships, and in 1881, when he was 24, was asked by the Marquis of Ailsa to manage a yacht-building yard near the ancestral home of Culzean Castle. While there he designed and built the racing yacht Clara, which lost few of its races.

When William III returned to Fairlie in 1886, he increased the size of the yard and built new sheds and installed modern machinery. Fife’s yard brought some prosperity to the village of Fairlie. The boatyard employed a large number of people and prompted the growth of surrounding business. The greatest achievement of the yard came when Fife was commissioned by Sir Thomas Lipton to design a challenger for the America's Cup. The result was Shamrock I, a yacht of composite construction, 128 feet in length. Fife realised that a yacht of this size could not be built and launched in Fairlie. It was eventually built at Millwall on the Thames in the Thorneycroft yard.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs The Fife Yard was famous for its racing and cruising yachts and several were owned by crowned heads and business leaders. Today, surviving examples of Fife’s yachts are highly prized in the international boat market.

During the Second World War the yard was requisitioned by the Admiralty for use as an anti-submarine research base. William Fife died in 1944 and when the Admiralty returned the yard to the Fife family, it was sold and became the Fairlie Yacht Slip Ltd. under Mr Archibald McMillan, building fishing boats and repairing racing yachts.

The final boat to be launched from the Fife yard was the Solway Maid in 1940, which was sold off cheaply after the requisition. It was restored in 1989-90 and according to M. Fife-McCallum is still sailing. The schooner Altair, launched in 1931 returned to the Clyde and Fairlie in May 1991 to celebrate its Diamond Jubilee. A clinker built dinghy used as a tender for the yacht Golden Orfe that was also built by the Fife yard in 1932 is on display at the Scottish Maritime Museum in Irvine.

The yard finally closed in 1985 and was demolished in November of that year to make way for a housing development.

The Ordnance Survey Maps

The Second Edition OS Map 1912 6 inches to 1 mile

The First Edition OS map was not consulted but the Second Edition OS map of 1912 shows no buildings or archaeological features within the proposed development area and it is highly likely this was also the case 50 years earlier. A triangle on the map indicates an ordnance survey triangulation point. It is possible a small outhouse building is shown immediately to the N of the underpass under the railway from Kelburnfoot House, which is shown, but this is not very clear on the map. The ground is depicted as boggy scrub.

Kelburnfoot House, which is still inhabited today, was very probably part of the Kelburn Estate and a track joins the house to the main road and main entrance to the Estate. It is possible that Kelburnfoot House may have served as the Estate’s beach and boathouse and also as the Estate’s private railway station.

The village of Fairlie is clearly shown on the reproduced map extract with the site of the yacht building yard clearly identified. The site of Fairlie Castle and the site of the chapel are also clearly shown. The number of slipways on Fairlie sands gives a clear indication of the importance of the fishing industry to the village. Fairlie Pier Station is also clearly shown. This pier, which opened in 1882, served the islands of Arran and Cumbrae as well as being a stop for many cruise steamers. One of the first ‘drive- on, drive-off’ ferries, Glen Sannox, commenced service in 1957 from this pier, serving the Isle of Arran. Boat trains ran to and from Glasgow and Kilmarnock and there were also daily freight services. The pier was closed in the 1970s /1980s.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs The 1965 OS Map1:2,500

This map gives the clearest indication of the burnt out cottage Feature 3 that was identified during the field survey. Kelburnfoot House is clearly shown along with the underpass and a small outbuilding immediately to the N of the underpass, which was not located during the field survey. A clearly marked trackway is shown leading from Kelburnfoot House to the cottage on the shore. The plan of the cottage shown on this map is the same as can be seen on the ground today. The well identified in the field survey as Feature 4 is clearly marked, as is a small outbuilding to the E of the cottage. This small outbuilding was covered with debris from the burnt down and demolished cottage and it is likely to was also destroyed in the fire but this area could not be accessed during the field survey. The remainder of the land is shown as boggy scrub. It is also of note that the outside toilet Feature 5 and the formal garden steps Feature 6 are not shown. The complex of slipways at Feature 1 is also not shown. However, it is extremely likely that all of these features were present in 1965 and were associated with the cottage and Kelburnfoot House.

This map evidence makes clear that the cottage Feature 3 was built after 1912 and before 1965. From what survived of the burnt out building it is probable the cottage was constructed in the 1930s.

The 1988 Modern 1:10,000 OS Map

The most recent OS map shows the cottage, well and a boundary around the cottage identified as Feature 3. The small building to the N of the underpass is also shown. No other features are shown within the proposed development area.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 2. Extract of the 1912 Second Edition Ordnance Survey Map showing the proposed development site and Fairlie village, note yacht building yard. OS Licence No. AL100016476, Firat Archaeological Services, Hillcroft, Station Road, Rhu, G84 4LW

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 3. Extract of 1965 Ordnance Survey map showing proposed development area. Note cottage, well and outbuildings. OS Licence No. AL100016476, Firat Archaeological Services, Hillcroft, Station Road, Rhu, G84 4LW

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 4. Site Plan

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

The Field Survey

Fiona Baker undertook a field survey of the proposed development site on 9 November 2000 in dry and sunny conditions. The tide was going out during the course of the survey.

The site consists of a narrow strip of land adjacent to the E side of the Ayr-Glasgow Railway line as shown on the OS map. The land is dissected by the outflow of the Kelburn burn known as Kelburnfoot, which runs under a railway bridge. A well used public footpath leads N to S across the narrow strip of land and across a makeshift bridge to the small area of land on the S side of the burn. On the S side of the burn there is a small area of overgrown coastal land before turning into pebble beach that lies up against the breakwater and foundation of the railway line. The high tide comes in to right against the breakwater and foundation of the railway line.

The beach consists of cobbles, pebbles and shingle with some sandy patches and is covered with the usual beach debris of plastic, wood, water worn ceramic, tile and glass sherds of 19th and 20th century date and corroded iron fragments. Seaweed, cockle shells, razor shells, mussels, limpets and bivalve shells are also scattered over the shore.

Archaeological Features

Nine archaeological features were observed during the course of the field survey.

Feature 1 A boat launching complex consisting of 2 slipways and a concrete block breakwater which is now broken up into pieces due to water erosion. The slipway and breakwater extends over an area measuring c. 45m N-S and fills the width of the shore at the MLWS mark. The slipways are broken and no longer in use. The N slipway is disturbed and the N side of it is broken. The S slipway is in better condition but still damaged by erosion and unusable. Both of the slipways show the same method of construction and apparently all of one build along with the breakwater.

The slipways are constructed of poured concrete blocks bonded directly onto the beach cobbles, which suggests the concrete was poured into shutters in situ. The concrete blocks have been used to create the long sides of the slipway and also as cross beams. The side blocks are spaced 1.60m apart and the cross beams are spaced at intervals of 2.80m. Corroded iron fittings to hold the corroded iron rails of the slipway are present, as are iron loops in each of the cross members of the S slipway. The concrete side blocks measure 0.37m (S slipway) and 0.48m wide (N slipway) and are 0.20m high (S slipway) and 0.25m high (N slipway). The cross beams are 0.44m wide and 0.27m high. The side blocks, which extend over a distance of c.15m, support an iron rail 0.03m wide and 0.03m high. Iron ring fittings are present in the breakwater blocks and were presumably used for tying up boats.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs A sketch of the slipways is included in the project archive. Feature 1 dates to the later 20th century.

Feature 2 A planted hawthorn hedge of approximately 50-100 years of age located along the S side of the track that leads under the railway underpass to Kelburnfoot house. The underpass itself and the age of the hedge indicate that there has been an underpass under the railway probably from its first construction in the mid-19th century. It is of note that Feature 1 is located immediately to the front of this house on the shore and it is very likely that these slipways belonged to the house. A small building located immediately to the N of the underpass within the proposed development area is shown on the modern 1:10,000 OS map. This area is overgrown and this building was not located during the field survey.

Feature 3 The remains of a burnt out and demolished buildings, apparently a dwelling house. The foundations consist of cast concrete and railway sleepers and some of the wooden floor joists survive. The foundations measure 14m N-S x 10m E-W. It appears to have been a wooden construction with a bitumen roof. A local informant described the cottage as a wooden beach house known as ‘The Lodge’ that an old couple had lived in until fairly recently and that it had been burnt down by vandals. The entrance to the cottage was on the N side. The burnt out cooker, water tank, fridge tiles and general debris from the burnt out house are still on site. The general area is overgrown and no ancillary structures were noted although the debris may obscure other features.

Features 4, 5 6 and 9 are associated with this cottage.

The cottage is shown on the modern 1:10,000 OS map. The modern map also shows a fence line around the S and W sides of the cottage but this could not be located over any distance on the ground.

This cottage is not shown on the 1912 OS map but shown on the 1965 OS map indicating it was built in the intervening period. FAS suggests the 1930s as the most likely construction date.

During the desk based study at Ardrossan Library FAS was fortunate to encounter Mr Hamish Boyle of 36 Bay Street, Fairlie who was able to give some information on the cottage. The cottage was known as ‘The Lodge’ and it was occupied by a family called Wade. Associated with the Lodge was a (wishing) well (Feature 4), tennis court (Feature 9) and a boat yard with three rail slipways (Feature 1). The last owner of the cottage before it was burnt down was Mr Eddie Duncan. Mr Boyle did not know when the cottage had been built.

Feature 4

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs A stone well located at the NE side of the cottage. The well is circular with a diameter of 1.60m at the top over walls 0.36m wide. The interior diameter is 0.88m. The sides of the well project above ground for a height of 0.57m and the overall interior depth is 1.30m. The well is now filled with rubbish and disused although it was used daily by the couple that used to live in the now destroyed beach cottage. The side walls of the well are constructed of rough freestone boulders bonded in concrete mortar. There are traces of a plaster lining and the structure has been repointed in the past. Two lead pipes c. 0.03m in diameter, which have been severed, enter the well on its S side at a depth of 0.67m below the top edge of the well. Presumably these pipes led to the house Feature 3. The well is shown on the modern 1:10,000 OS map.

Feature 5 A rectangular brick foundation built directly on to the pebble shore and located to the SW of the cottage Feature 3. A fireclay pipe is located at the E end and an outflow pipe at the W end of these foundations. Fragments of concrete containing pipes are located on the shore in the immediate vicinity of this foundation. The bricks are stamped SOUTH HOOK KILMARNOCK. The structure measures 2.30m E-W x 1.37m N-S over walls 0.23m wide consisting of two bricks in width. Slabs of concrete scattered on the shire in the immediate vicinity appear to have been part of its construction. This small building, which is not shown on the modern 1:10,000 OS map is interpreted as the site of the outside toilet and this was confirmed by a local informant.

Feature 6 Steps and path edge for a formal entrance from the shore to the cottage Feature 3. The steps and kerbs of the steps and low wall along the beachfront are made of cast. concrete.

No trace of a formal garden survives and the predominant plants in the vicinity of the cottage are knotweed, grass, willowherb, bramble and hawthorn.

Feature 7 A bridge over the Kelburn burn constructed of a railway sleeper supported on stones in the burn. Modern in date. The land on the S side of the burn is covered with gorse before giving way to pebble beach as far as the Ministry of Defence pier. No archaeological features were observed to the south of the burn. A fine footbridge is located up the burn to the E and is shown on the modern 1:10,000 OS map as a footbridge.

Feature 8 A single blonde sandstone architectural fragment lying on the pebble beach. Its origin in uncertain though it may be associated with the Kelburnfoot House accessed by the underpass. It seems unlikely it would be associated with the burnt out wooden cottage Feature 3 which appears to have been constructed of concrete and wood. Another red sandstone fragment with the remains of an iron bar in it, perhaps part of a railing on a wall or gatepost was also observed on the shore.

Feature 9

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Immediately to the N of Feature 6 a compact layer of red stone chips was observed in the eroded section at the edge of the land where it meets the beach. This section is only 0.25m deep. The layer of compact red stone chips is 0.02m deep and appears to be a surface is sealed under 0.10m of humic pebbles and shells and overlies 0.13m of compact beach deposit of pebbles, sand and shells. A local inhabitant (Hamish Boyle) was aware of a tennis court associated with the house, presumably these red chips are the remains of the blaise of the tennis court.

Coal and cinder fragments are also present in the beach section. This material may be derived from a midden associated with the cottage at feature 3 or house at Kelburnfoot or may have been deliberately dumped as a make-up layer to create a hard standing on the beach or it may be debris from the railway.

Summary Discussion

The desk based study and field survey have indicated that a 20th century cottage dating to after 1912 and its associated boat slips, well, outbuildings and tennis court are the only man made features to exist within the proposed development area. No earlier archaeological features were identified by the desk study or field survey.

Conclusions and Recommendations

All of the archaeological remains observed during the field survey are of modern date. The desk based study and field survey indicates that no archaeological remains dating to earlier than the 20th century are present on the site.

No further archaeological work is required.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 5. General view over the site to the south from Largs Yacht Haven Breakwater, shows Feature 1, slipways and breakwater.

Figure 6. View to the south from the southernmost part of land over the south area of the proposed development site, shows embankment and breakwater of the railway line and MoD pier in the background.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 7. Feature 1 slipway, view to the west.

Figure 8. Feature 5 remains of the outside toilet and Feature 6, formal entrance steps to the cottage Feature 3 in the background. View to the north-east.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Figure 9. Feature 3, remains of the burnt out cottage, view to the NW, Largs Yacht Haven in the background.

Figure 10. Feature 4, the well associated with the cottage Feature 3. View to the N.

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Discovery and Excavation in Scotland

Local Authority North Ayrshire

Site Name Fairlie

Parish Largs

Name of Contributor Fiona Baker, Firat Archaeological Services

Type of Site or Find Field Survey

NGR NS 209 566

Report

A desk study and field survey of a strip of coastal land was carried out in November 2000.

No archaeological features earlier than the 20th century were located during the assessment.

Sponsors: Fairlie Marina Ltd

Address of Main Contributor: Hillcroft, Station Road, Rhu, G84 8LW Bibliography and Map List

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Dow J Rev 1842 Parish of Largs in New Statistical Account of Scotland Vol. IV, Ayr, 786-811

Fife –McCallum M 1998 Fast and Bonnie: A History of William Fife and Son Yachtbuilders John Donald Ltd., Edinburgh

Gardner 1879 Wemyss Bay, Innerkip and Largs Paisley

Groome F H (Ed) 1885 Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland Vol. IV, HAR - LIB. Largs, 469-472 Vol. III, Fairlie, 1-2 Grange Publishers, Edinburgh

Keay J and Keay J (eds.) 1994 Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland Harper Collins, London

Lang G Rev 1790 Parish of Largs in Sinclair Sir J

Miller J 1994 The Fifes of Fairlie Scottish Local History, Vol. 30, (February) Scottish Local History Forum, Edinburgh

Paterson History of Ayrshire

Register of Scotland Vol. I, p381

Sinclair Sir J (ed) 1790 The Statistical Account Largs, Vol. II, Number XIX, 360-366

Stevenson J B 1985 Exploring Scotland’s Heritage. The Clyde Estuary and Central Region RCAHMS, HMSO, Edinburgh

Strawthorn J 1956 The Third Statistical Account of Scotland Edinburgh

Maps

1912 Second Edition OS map, Ayrshire Sheets III.SE, Sheet IV NE 1965 OS Map Sheet NS 21 56, 1:2500 1988 OS Map Sheet NS 16 SE, 1:10,000

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Acknowledgements

The desk based study, field survey and reporting including illustration was carried out by Fiona Baker assisted by Stephanie Durning. Fairlie Marina Ltd funded the project.

Report Distribution

This report was supplied to Fairlie Marina Ltd in disk format with illustrations including a full set of colour prints for inclusion in the overall EIA for the site.

Bound copies of the report have been supplied to: • Fairlie Marina Ltd • West of Scotland Archaeology Service (including digital copy) • National Monuments Record of Scotland • Firat Archaeological Services

A summary of the results has been supplied to Discovery and Excavation in Scotland.

The full project archive will be deposited in the National Monuments Record of Scotland within 6 months.

Contents and Location of the Archive

The full project archive is currently held by Firat Archaeological Services and will be deposited in the National Monuments Record of Scotland within six months.

The project archive contains: • one bound copy of this report • one copy of the report on disk • copy of field notes • all photographs as listed

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs

Photographic Lists

Colour Print Roll 1

Frame Direction Description 26 To S General view from Largs Yacht Haven breakwater 27 To E F1, N slipway 28 To E F1, N slipway 29 To W F1 slipway 30 To N F4 well 31 To NW F3 house remains 32 To NW F3 house remains 33 To NW F3 house remains 34 To NE F5 toilet and F6 in background 35 To S From end of land on S side of burn 36 To NNE Land on N side of burn 37 To E F7 bridge 38 To E F9 tennis court surface in eroded section

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Proposed Marina at Fairlie by Largs Contact Addresses

Firat Archaeological Services Hillcroft Station Road Rhu G84 8LW

Contact: Fiona Baker Tel 01436 820334 Fax 01436 820051

West of Scotland Archaeology Service Charing Cross Complex 20 India Street Glasgow G2 4PF

Contact: Carol Swanson Tel 0141 287 8333 Fax 0141 287 9529

Fairlie Marina Ltd 30 Main Road Largs KA30 8AB

Contacts: Dirk Kuyt, David J Clark

Ian MacKenzie (ES Co-ordinator) High Glengarth Kilbirnie KA25 7JY

Tel / Fax: 01505 683200

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