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Sint-Helena, Midden in De Atlantische Oceaan

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Sint-Helena, Midden in De Atlantische Oceaan Overzees gebied Daniel van Middelkoop We naderen het onherbergzame & Maarten Hogenstijn Sint-Helena, midden in de Atlantische Oceaan. Sint-Helena, een klein eiland in de Zuid- Figuur 1: Sint-Helena viewen we gouverneur Lisa Honan, de hoogst geplaatste Saint Atlantische Oceaan, is nog altijd een Brits in het lokale bestuur Susan O’Bey, hoofd van het toerismebureau Helena Bennett, de teruggekeerde eilander Stewart George en Lagos overzees gebiedsdeel. Het is ook een van Abidjan een groep scholieren van de lokale middelbare school. de moeilijkst te bereiken oorden op aarde. ATLANTISCHE Economische impact Dat veranderde eind 2017 met de opening Onze positieve indruk bij aankomst op het eiland wordt gedeeld OCEAAN van het vliegveld. Kinshasa door veel Saints. Ook de gouverneur bevestigt dit beeld: ‘Er is een Ascension buzz op het eiland. [...] Er zijn meer mensen’. De lokale overheid ÖBBEN en de Britse overheid hopen dan ook dat de luchtverbinding uiteindelijk leidt tot economische groei en daarmee minder Sint-Helena JAMESTOWN afhankelijkheid van Britse financiële steun. De bouw van het ©2018 GEOGRAFIE & B.J. K & B.J. ©2018 GEOGRAFIE Halftree vliegveld heeft veel Saints tijdelijk werk opgeleverd. Bovendien Hollow Walvisbaai heeft de beslissing een aantal hervormingen in gang gezet. Het Rio de Janeiro St Paul's FOTO: MAARTEN HOGENSTIJN MAARTEN FOTO: Longwood is voor Britten eenvoudiger geworden om grond te kopen op het Sint-Helena ALARM FOREST eiland, er te investeren of er naartoe te verhuizen. Blue Hill Sint-Helena Levelwood Maar de economische ontwikkeling moet toch vooral van het SANDY toerisme komen. Waar een reis naar het eiland per schip eerst BAY Vliegende toekomst minstens vijf dagen kostte, vlieg je er nu in enkele uren naartoe. 5 km NATURALEARTHDATA.COM & WIKIMEDIA.ORG & NATURALEARTHDATA.COM Susan O’Bey denkt dat dit een ander type toerist zal aantrekken. Tristan da Cunha BRON: BRON: ‘In het verleden waren het mensen die zowel de tijd als het geld voor eenzame rots hadden. Nu kunnen ook mensen met minder vrije tijd naar het eiland komen.’ Het is vooralsnog moeilijk de effecten vast te stel- len; het vliegveld is nog geen jaar open. Maar het aantal toeristen dat er nog veel onduidelijk is over de impact van air access en dat vanwege de Franse historie naar het eiland reist, lijkt te stijgen. ls we eind 2017 een uitnodiging ontvangen om te spreken de impact van de nieuwe vliegverbinding tussen het eiland en de toekomst van het eiland. op het allereerste wetenschappelijke congres ooit op het Zuid-Afrikaanse Johannesburg in kaart te brengen. De drukte blijkt deels te verklaren doordat de RMS St Helena Onzeker ASint-Helena, twijfelen we niet lang. Een prachtige moge- (zie kader Reizen naar het eiland op pag. 39) ook voor anker ligt Na een week op het eiland moeten we toch concluderen dat de lijkheid om ‘ons eiland’ weer te bezoeken, nadat we er in 2002 Vliegverbinding in de baai van Jamestown, voor een van haar laatste tochten. economische kansen onzeker zijn. Met slechts één vlucht per drie maanden onderzoek deden onder de ‘Saints’, zoals bewoners Over air access is decennia nagedacht op het eiland zelf en in het En de toegenomen economische activiteit op het eiland is mede week en maximaal 76 passagiers per trip is de ambitieuze doel- van Sint-Helena zichzelf noemen (zie kader Onderzoek). We Verenigd Koninkrijk, waarvan Sint-Helena een overzees gebieds- het gevolg van de inmiddels bijna afgeronde constructie- stelling van financiële onafhankelijkheid voorlopig onhaalbaar. grijpen het hernieuwde bezoek aan om de eerste tekenen van deel is. Lang leek de aanleg van een vliegveld niet haalbaar. Zo werkzaamheden rond het gloednieuwe vliegveld. Veel passagiers zijn Saints die overzees wonen en werken. was er op het vulkanische eiland geen vlak gedeelte beschik- In de week dat we op het eiland zijn, proberen we zo goed mogelijk Wanneer zij het eiland bezoeken, logeren ze over het algemeen baar voor een landingsbaan. Daarbij bestond er geen toestel dat in beeld te krijgen hoe de inwoners van Sint-Helena zelf aankijken bij familie en maken slechts beperkt gebruik van voorzieningen én overweg kon met een zeer korte landingsbaan én bij te veel tegen een toekomst met air access. We bezoeken de conferentie als restaurants. Het aantal toeristische overnachtingen per jaar Onderzoek in 2002 wind zou kunnen uitwijken naar een ander vliegveld ver weg. en spreken met vele Saints, toeristen en onderzoekers. Ook inter- lijkt op de korte termijn maximaal 4000 te zijn. Misschien niet Uiteindelijk bleek het mogelijk de technische problemen te ns eerste bezoek aan Sint-Helena was in 2002. We reisden toen vanuit overwinnen, maar alleen tegen zeer hoge kosten. Na jaren van O Engeland met de RMS St Helena; een bootreis van twee weken. Op het plannen maken, bijstellen, uitstellen en bouwen is het vliegveld eiland deden we onderzoek voor onze doctoraalscriptie over de ruimtelijke nu in bedrijf. Air access werd en wordt door veel onderzoekers identiteit van de bewoners van Sint-Helena. Op het eiland waren we al snel en beleidsmakers gezien als de enige manier om de economie bekend als the Dutchies en werden we beschouwd als een beetje vreemd, maar van het eiland nieuw leven in te blazen. Een verbinding door de ongevaarlijk. Saints waren over het algemeen blij met onze belangstelling. lucht moet zorgen voor meer toerisme en voor meer bezoek van Er was toen al sprake van de komst van een vliegveld. Dat zou in 2009 of 2010 overseas wonende Saints aan hun ‘thuis’. Maar is dat ook zo? klaar moeten zijn. Saints waren destijds bezorgd over de impact van het vlieg- veld op het sociale leven en de veiligheid op het eiland. ‘Moeten we onze Op onderzoek huizen en auto’s voortaan op slot doen?’ Over de economische kansen waren Als we in januari arriveren op de – schrikbarend korte – landings- ze vaak wel enthousiast. ‘Het is de enige kans voor het eiland’, hoorden we baan op Prosperous Bay Plain en naar de hoofdstad Jamestown regelmatig. Over het onderzoek is gerapporteerd in Geografie september 2003 rijden, zien we direct verschillen met 2002. Het is (relatief) druk en het Tijdschrift voor Economische en Sociale Geografie (TESG) in 2005. op het eiland. Er zijn meer toeristen, meer auto’s, meer restau- rants en nieuwe havenfaciliteiten in Rupert’s Bay. Maar naarmate De zeer korte landingsbaan de week vordert, merken we ook dat nog veel hetzelfde is. En op Prosperous Bay Plain. 36 geografie | oktober 2018 geografie | oktober 2018 37 De baai van Jamestown. Voor de komst van het vliegveld waren de bewoners van Sint-Helena sterk gericht op de zee. eens zo erg, want de toeristische infrastructuur op het eiland is De nieuwe mensen lijken ook wat meer gehaast. Per schip duurde beperkt en het aantal bedden groeit slechts langzaam. de reis naar het eiland meerdere dagen. Toeristen hadden alle Investeringen van buiten het eiland vallen tot nu toe tegen en de tijd om in de rustige ‘Sint-Helena-modus’ te komen. Nu kun je in mogelijkheden van Saints om zélf te investeren zijn bescheiden, Johannesburg ontbijten en dezelfde dag nog op Sint-Helena mede omdat het lastig is financiering te krijgen via de Bank of lunchen. Dat roept ook andere verwachtingen op bij toeristen, St. Helena. De economie van het eiland blijft dus sterk afhan- constateert Helena Bennett. ‘De bezoekers die per schip kwamen, kelijk van overheidssteun. accepteerden dat het toerisme op het eiland nog in ontwikkeling is, maar de nieuwe toeristen verwachten dat alle voorzieningen Staatssteun en investeringen er zijn.’ Het verschil in tempo wordt geïllustreerd door de trage De voorlopig bescheiden economische groei kon wel eens internetverbinding op het eiland. Mobiele telefoons zijn er pas slecht nieuws zijn voor de Britten, die de jaarlijkse staatssteun in 2015 geïntroduceerd. Toch gaan de ontwikkelingen – voor (24,5 miljoen pond in 2017) willen afbouwen. De investeringen eilandbegrippen – rap: in 2020 moet Sint-Helena door een nieuwe op het eiland waren een spend to save-initiatief, maar op de korte kabel de beschikking krijgen over supersnel internet. termijn lijkt korten op de staatssteun niet wenselijk. Het zou volgens eilander Stewart George tot een aanzienlijke armoede- Nieuw zwaartepunt val op Sint-Helena leiden. Sommige Saints bepleiten zelfs méér De opening van het vliegveld heeft ook geleid tot een verschui- steun voor het eiland gedurende een overgangsperiode waarin ving van het zwaartepunt van het eiland. Traditioneel waren de de voorzieningen voor toerisme op peil worden gebracht. bewoners van Sint-Helena gericht op de zee. De gouverneur kijkt De komst van het vliegveld heeft Sint-Helena dus wel een De krimp vanaf de jaren 80 had te maken met een sterk dalend Stroom onbekenden vanuit haar werkkamer uit op James Bay, waar de RMS St Helena positieve economische impuls bezorgd, maar de ontwikkeling geboortecijfer en een forse emigratie. Veel Saints gingen toen Hoe ervaren de Saints de veranderingen in de sociale structuur? voor anker ging. ‘Het schip was altijd het centrale punt waarom is kwetsbaar en gaat langzaam. Een sleutel tot verdere econo- werken op legerbases op Ascension Island en de Falklands, twee In de verhalen van de eilanders die wij spreken, is de voortduren- alles op het eiland draaide’, legt Susan O’Bey uit. ‘Het was on- mische ontwikkeling is wellicht gelegen bij de Saints die op dit andere Britse gebieden in de Zuid-Atlantische Oceaan. De grote de aanwezigheid van nieuwe, onbekende gezichten de rode mogelijk dat je het niet wist als het schip er was. [...] Van het moment elders wonen en werken. De verbondenheid van de dip aan het begin van deze eeuw was het gevolg van de British draad. ‘Vroeger wisten we van iedereen wie hij of zij was’, vertelt vliegveld zie je en hoor je niets, tenzij je er naartoe gaat om diaspora met het eiland is nog altijd sterk.
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