Vale Royal Borough Council the baggin man Visits The Weaver Valley the baggin man Contents Visits The Weaver Valley Pages 2 Introduction 4 The Weaver 5 Enjoy the Weaver Valley 7 The Weaver Valley 9 The 11 A Wildlife Haven 13 The Lion Salt Works 15 More than Salt 17 Folk 19 The Locks 21 The New Cut 23 Food for Thought 25 A Village Gem 27 Getting Afloat 29 My Favourite View 31 A Lesson in History 33 An Exciting Vision 35 The Missing Link 36 Acknowledgements the baggin man Visits The Weaver Valley

Written by John Hulme Watercolours courtesy of Bernice Barrett-Brown 1 the baggin man Introduction Visits The Weaver Valley From John Hulme Welcome to my third Baggin Book – The Baggin Man visits the Weaver Valley. The Weaver Valley Regional Park sits at the Gateway to the North West and is an area that stretches 28 miles down the central spine of Cheshire - from the Mersey, in the north, to Audlem, near the Shropshire border in the south. The Park is much more than the River Weaver. It extends to the non-navigable River Dane and its tributary the River Wheelock. It also includes the important Trent & Mersey and Shropshire Union Canals. Within these boundaries are the key county towns of Northwich, Winsford and Crewe and the historic market towns of Frodsham, Middlewich, Sandbach and . The Valley has much to offer its residents and visitors. Walks and cycle rides through its lush countryside, angling, wildlife, history and heritage. Or just simply, peace and tranquillity. This Baggin Book is a collection of anecdotal storylines. Some are from learned colleagues. Some from the many visitors met on the towpath. Amazingly they all carry one message. It is water, heritage and our extraordinary countryside that attracts visitors to the Weaver Valley. Enjoy the Baggin Man. Enjoy the Weaver Valley.

2 Just like the Baggin Man, enjoy the Weaver Valley The Weaver Valley

3 The Weaver From Northwich to Frodsham And Nantwich near Wem The Weaver is a real Cheshire gem. The Peckforton Hills are seen as its birth And as it flows northwards It gathers a girth. Yet a gentle meander Twixt salt pans and meres Removes our anxieties, worries and fears. Alongside its banks thrives another new world Of insects and creatures and wonders unfurled. Flora and fauna unbridled abound, Whilst the silence of peace is a marvellous sound. So visit the river with all of its treasure The history of salt and canals for good measure. Industrial past and ecology live In harmony that only the Weaver can give.

Malcolm Roughley

4 the baggin man Enjoy the Weaver Valley Visits The Weaver Valley A personal message from the Mayor of Vale Royal Borough Council Vale Royal Borough Council is very proud to be working alongside our other local partners in the regeneration of the Weaver Valley into an exciting place for people to live, work, invest and visit. As the Mayor of the Borough, I spend much time travelling the Valley meeting both its residents and visitors and I am always surprised by how much impact our waterways had on our area. Looking back, it is amazing how our heritage – in particular salt – has shaped both the Valley and its waterways. Who would have imagined the creation of the Weaver Navigation, and the canals that serve it, would become the tourist destination of the 21st Century? The Weaver Valley is an ideal place to explore unspoilt countryside, discover a rich industrial heritage and experience some of the UK’s most captivating waterways. We have a Grand Vision for the Future and this short book attempts to paint where we are today with our aspirations of tomorrow. Join me now on a trip through the Weaver Valley and please return frequently to see how we are transforming the area for your enjoyment. I am sure you will agree, like our poem says – “The Weaver is a real Cheshire gem”.

Welcome to the Weaver Valley - the North West’s emerging tourist destination 5 6 the baggin man The Weaver Valley Visits The Weaver Valley The Baggin Man loves the Weaver Valley – so much, on Many are now joining the emerging Weaver Way – a 74 retirement, he has returned to Vale Royal and home is mile walkway along the Valley linking the six towns and now a pretty cottage overlooking the Trent and Mersey eleven villages between Frodsham in the north and Canal. Audlem in the South. Picture the setting. Bilbo Baggins is moored nestled Those visitors tell me the Weaver Valley is one of “All between two tunnels and only 5 minutes walk away is the Seasons”. meandering River Weaver. With the arrival of spring, the Valley is awash with colour. With a wealth of heritage; countryside many can only Fresh green foliage; spring-flowering trees and woods dream of and waterways that bring calming tranquillity – laden with snowdrops, daffodils and bluebells. it is not surprising that my love of the Weaver Valley is Summer and long warm days brings out the shared by so many visitors and residents alike. holidaymakers. It is amazing how watching colourful Our visitors are not just boaters. They also include boats can be a joy in itself. anglers, nature lovers, cyclists and walkers – with the As the days shorten and summer fades, autumn brings a latter making up the majority. riot of gold, russet and red. This is when the Valley’s The Weaver Valley is a rambler’s paradise and has so woodlands and wetlands are at their best. much to offer those on foot. Then winter sets in and the low sun, frost, and perhaps For the day tripper, you may take a short gentle amble even a blanket of snow, makes our waterways extra along a nicely trimmed towpath or visit one of our special. waterside country parks. Add to these aspects the sound of water and I challenge For the well orientated hiker, you may don your rucksack you to find a better place to visit? and walking boots and trek between our historic towns.

Mr Baggins says >> Walking is healthy, free and sociable. It is the best way of exploring the Weaver Valley. 7 8 the baggin man The River Weaver Visits The Weaver Valley The River Weaver has a fascinating history, a lively The Navigation was managed by a committee of present and, with the emergence of the Weaver Valley Trustees, made up of local gentry, and had an Park, a bright future. extraordinary record of investment and innovation. Rising in the Peckforton Hills, the river flows south Until the late 19th century, it was gradually deepened towards Audlem and then turns north over the Cheshire and straightened. Deeper locks were added; bridges Plain, passing through Nantwich, Winsford and were built and the boats got bigger. Northwich. It joins the close to Frodsham. As well as serving the local area the navigation was an The success and wealth of the Weaver was built on salt. important route to the Potteries carrying china clay and flint upstream to Winsford and then by packhorse for Originally a shallow tidal stream, the river was only the rest of the journey. navigable from the Mersey to Pickerings. Then, salt was carried down by men and horses to meet the incoming When the opened in 1777, this tide. Sailing barges were loaded and departed on the was a major threat to the Weaver but the ingenuity of ebbing tide. the Trustees fought back by building a basin at Anderton with goods being transferred from the canal. First by In 1732, it was made navigable from Frodsham to tramway, then by chutes and finally by the Anderton Winsford under the 1721 Weaver Navigation Act, thus Boat Lift. opening up Winsford and Northwich for business. When the Boat Lift was opened in July 1875, this 50 By the 1750’s the Weaver Valley was lined with salt foot giant lift was the marvel of the time. works using open pans to extract salt from brine. Soon 40 ton barges were carrying salt for export and bringing Now fondly called the Cathedral of the Canals, the in coal from the Lancashire pits via this new and and its Visitor Centre is one of our splendid navigation. leading tourist attractions, with over 150,000 visitors a year.

Mr Baggins says >> The River Weaver is perfect for watching wildlife or simply to sit beside and relax. 9 10 the baggin man A Wildlife Haven Visits The Weaver Valley If the Anderton Boat Lift is the “Cathedral of the Although difficult to imagine, the Park is sitting on Canals”, the Northwich Community Woodlands is its industrial wasteland of the past. 130 years ago half the backdrop. Nature Park was covered in salt works, while Mr Ashton and Capt Neumann’s rock salt mines had each collapsed The Woodlands is an area of countryside, rich in wildlife, to form a flash. flora and fauna, thriving on its industrial past and includes a maze of paths that weaves through historical In 1873, Messrs John Brunner and Ludwig Mond set up landscapes and open parkland. their Solvay Chemical Works – which is still operating across the River Weaver. The Anderton Nature Park is adjacent to the Boat Lift Centre and is an excellent place to get closer to nature. As the salt works declined, the area was used to tip waste from the chemical works. Now, plants and Many who visit the Boat Lift now extend their day by wildflowers have started to colonise this lime-rich waste, visiting the Woodlands or take advantage of the making it a wildlife haven. picturesque walks to visit other local attractions. Discovering the Nature Park could not be easier. There is A round trip of two hours will take you to the Lion Salt a Wildflower Trail, with markers, showing the best places Works – and well worth the walk. It will take you to look out for particular flowers and plants. To add to through the Anderton Nature Park and past Ashton’s and your enjoyment each trail post tells you the flowering Neumann’s Flashes where orchids and rare butterflies can time of each plant along with its height and colour. be seen in season. As you follow the trail you will find much more than Many ask why there is such an abundance of wildlife and wildflowers. There are bird hides and blinds, where you so many special wildflowers in this unusual habitat. can quietly watch over the flashes. The answer is beneath you! And for a real buzz, lookout for the free aerobatic displays over the Dragonfly Pond!

Mr Baggins says >> When visiting the Boat Lift, why not take a picnic beside the Weaver and enjoy the passing boats 11 12 the baggin man The Lion Salt Works Visits The Weaver Valley The Lion Salt Works at Marston, on the Trent and From the pan, the tubs went to the hot house or ‘otters Mersey Canal, tells the story of Salt and must not be which was heated by flue gases. Here the blocks of salt missed if you are visiting the Weaver Valley. were thoroughly dried out. From the outside it resembles a ramshackle old building Although a simple process, it took years to learn the art – but this is exactly how it was left, when it closed in of a lumpman. They had to get the rate of evaporation 1986. It was the last surviving open pan salt works in just right and they had to keep a very careful eye on the Cheshire. drying process. The Salt Works has a great tale to tell of how a You can imagine that after an hour in the works your traditional product was made in a traditional way. throat would be dry and salty as if you had crossed the desert. At the end of the shift, every bone in your body From the outside you will see the 30,000 gallon must have ached because of the sheer hard work. One blackened tank. This was kept constantly full of brine could only imagine the effects the salt had on your skin! and fed the evaporating pans in the works. Our local waterways also played a large part in the Six days a week, twenty fours hours a day, the pans development of the Lion Salt Works. would boil up the brine. The lumpman would then use his skimmer to scoop out hot salt crystals and empty The Thompson Family, who owned the works for five them into an elm tub, which rested on a rail inside the generations, had their own narrowboat fleet to transport pan. It was a tough life in the steamy, sticky salt along the Trent and Mersey Canal to the Anderton atmosphere of the brine pan. Boat Lift. There the finished product was off-loaded on to barges on the Weaver Navigation and exported all The tubs were called sixties as sixty tubs made up a ton over the world via Liverpool. and they had slits in their bases so that any excess brine could be drained back into the pan.

Mr Baggins says >> The Lion Salt Works is open Sunday to Thursday 1.30pm - 4.30pm 13 Call 01606 41823 for details 14 the baggin man More than Salt Visits The Weaver Valley If you want to piece together the history of the Weaver Other great stories at the Museum are those of Valley, the Salt Museum in Northwich is the place to subsidence and floods. visit. Northwich used to be prone to severe subsidence The Museum not only tells the intriguing story of salt but because of the salt mines and brine pumping. Whole also how it has shaped the landscape and the people streets would sink into the ground with very little who now live in the Weaver Valley. warning. The Baggin Man was born and bred in Northwich and he And, if subsidence was not enough there is “the greatest is still learning about its heritage. disaster the town has ever suffered” – the Flood of 1946. Living a stones throw from the Weaver, it is amazing how strolling around the Salt Museum brings back my On Friday 8th February 1946, heavy rainfall, melting childhood memories and the stories that Mum and Dad snows and a high tide on the Mersey caused both the used to tell about Northwich. Weaver and Dane to rise quickly thus flooding the town It is those hidden stories behind the History of Salt that in several feet of water. make the Salt Museum worth visiting. I recall my father telling me about the flood and how it The Weaver Gallery is fascinating and tells the story of swamped the Regal Cinema, with the staff being how the shipbuilding yards of Yarwood’s and Pimblott’s stranded from 1pm on Friday to 4am on Saturday built the Weaver Packets boats for ICI. without food or drink. There is also the story of ICI and how John Brunner and Ironically for the Museum, this story has gone full circle. Ludwig Mond brought much prosperity to the area Sadly, the cinema was forced to close it doors in 2007 including polythene being invented at Winnington in but the Curator was able to save enough seats to 1933. refurbish its own Cinema – which is now proudly called the Regalette! Mr Baggins says >> The Salt Museum’s temporary exhibitions mean the galleries are always changing. 15 16 the baggin man Middlewich Folk Visits The Weaver Valley With an estimated 30,000 visitors and 300 boats now Middlewich is the ‘Grand Central’ of our northern canal visiting the Middlewich Folk and Boat Festival in mid- network. It is where the Trent and Mersey Canal joins June, Middlewich has now become “Glastonbury on the and entices many canal Water”. visitors - being on both the Cheshire and Four Counties Cruising Rings Since the first Festival in 1990, boaters have travelled from all over the canal network for what is now one of Look carefully at the canal junction and you will discover the most important dates in the Inland Waterways one of Middlewich’s smaller secrets – the . calendar. The Wardle Canal, which joins the Trent and Mersey Boaters, canals and music are an intrinsic mix. with the Shropshire Union Canal, is the shortest canal in England measuring only 154 feet long! For many years, and until the demise of the working boat in the mid 60’s, the pubs in Middlewich would Middlewich however, is not short on history and thanks have been teeming with boatmen – just like the King’s to its visionary Town Council there are trails around the Lock opposite. town, led by information boards, piecing its past together. Bars then were simple. No food, quick meals or quiz evenings. Beer would have been drawn straight from Not to be missed is the Roman Middlewich Trail, which the wood in the cellar. Stone-flagged floors, benches uncovers how the town started as a Roman Settlement and tables whitened by constant scrubbing. and became dominated by Salt Works as far back as 150AD. And as the beer flowed, the boatmen’s stories would turn into song – folk songs – sung by the boat crews of Once again, as we pass through the Weaver Valley, we the area depicting their culture. It was an expression of find another town inextricably linked with Salt and our their way of life. Waterways. That is what ‘Folk and Boat’ is all about. Mr Baggins says >> Look out for other festivals in Middlewich - the town certainly knows how to celebrate it’s 17 heritage. 18 the baggin man The Cheshire Locks Visits The Weaver Valley Life on the Bilbo Baggins is largely about a slow boat to These canalside villages and the historic market town of nowhere. Days without plans and driven only by Sandbach still retain their charm and should be on your unexpected encounters. route when visiting the Weaver Valley. That was not so for the working boatman especially At Wheelock the canalside warehouse is now a those who worked south from Middlewich towards the restaurant and close by is the Salt Line Trail. This Potteries and beyond. picturesque multi-user trail - suitable for walkers, cyclists and horse riders - is on the former track bed of the Ahead of them were 4 locks to Wheelock, on the Sandbach to Kidsgrove railway line, which last saw trains outskirts of Sandbach, and then 7 miles and 26 locks to in 1966. Look carefully and you can still see the station the Harecastle Tunnel at Kidsgrove. platform at Wheelock. Although the traditional boat people call these “The Sandbach is a half hour’s walk from Wheelock but well Cheshire Locks” they are also called “Heartbreak Hill”. worth visiting to see the two massive Saxon stone The locks acquired their name not because there are so crosses elaborately carved with animals and biblical many, but because they are rarely close enough together scenes and on a Thursday you will enjoy one of the best to walk between and because of the heavy paddles they open air markets in the area. can be difficult to work. Hassall Green takes you to the extremities of the Weaver Back in the 1950’s you could imagine the working Valley and offers, as my friend Heinz would say, “A boaters arriving at Cerebos Salt, spending their Variety of Attractions”. afternoon loading their boats, and then heading south There is the Lock 57 Brasserie that offers fresh food from to spend their evening at the “Cheshire Cheese” at breakfast to dinner; the Potters Studio where you can Wheelock or “The Donkey“ at Hassall Green. not only throw you own pots but explore the tales of “Aah Bisto” – loading 20 tons in hundredweight bags Locopotamus and even a bright pink church to test your was hard thirsty work. vision.

Mr Baggins says >> The walk from Wheelock, up the locks and on to Hassall Green is a great Sunday afternoon stroll. 19 20 the baggin man The New Cut Visits The Weaver Valley Sometimes, when navigating the canals, it is worth The low banks of the Middlewich Branch and its close stopping for a moment, looking back down the towpath proximity to the River Weaver also makes this canal a and wondering how far back it goes. haunt for those that love wildlife - especially ornithologists. The answer is over 200 years! Forty years ago, I can recall visiting the canal on a school Then you might ask - why is the Middlewich Branch of field trip – with binoculars and the “Observer’s Book of the Shropshire Union Canal, which takes you to Birds” in my knapsack. How different it is to travel on a Barbridge near Nantwich, called “the New Cut”? narrowboat and enjoy the theatrical entertainment it The answer is - it was built 50 years later than the Trent brings. and Mersey Canal by a new generation of canal Just short of lock, where the canal engineers who had to compete with the Railways. passes along a towering embankment over the River Whereas the Trent and Mersey Canal, designed and built Weaver, Bilbo Baggins is often met by a heron. by James Brindley, follows the contours of the These long-necked, long-legged birds with long tapering countryside, later canals were built much straighter using bills are a privilege to watch. embankments, cuttings and aqueducts to arrive at their destination more directly. Amazingly, if you approach on foot, they fly away but when approached by water, they appear to play a game Following a shelf of high ground above the River with you. Weaver’s Valley, the 10 mile “New Cut” provides some of the best views over the Cheshire Plain, They stand firm, exhibiting no sign of alarm and then once you are upon them, their vast wings extend, fly a I challenge you to find a better vista of the Weaver further hundred yards, wait for you and then provide Valley than where the canal overlooks Winsford Flashes. another performance. It is magnificent!

Mr Baggins says >> Why not walk the New Cut from Middlewich to Barbridge, then take lunch at one of its two pubs. 21 22 the baggin man Food for Thought Visits The Weaver Valley Each year, the Baggin Man heads for the Nantwich and But why wait for the festival? Nantwich is a fascinating South Cheshire Show, which hosts Europe’s largest place to visit at any time of the year and eating out is so international cheese exhibition amongst its many easy with its award-winning restaurants, coffee shops attractions. and tea-rooms. Held at Dorford Hall Park, Nantwich, it is very close to Our lunch-time favourite is Austins Coffee Shop, which the Shropshire Union Canal where it crosses the main can be found inside AT Welch’s butchers, on Hospital Road on a fine cast iron aqueduct. Street. As you enjoy their speciality coffees and teas you can reminisce about bygone days in their traditional Whilst the show has hundreds of cheeses displayed for Grocer’s shop. tasting, the one we always enjoy is our own Cheshire Cheese. And if you are looking for a book, why not call at the Nantwich Bookshop on High Street? This half timbered Cheshire Cheese is Britain’s oldest named cheese. It is a building, constructed in 1584 following the Great Fire, crumbly salt cheese with a nutty flavour. Rumour has it; has its own Coffee Lounge on the first floor. the salty flavour comes from the salt springs that run under the county. The salt enters the pasture land and I am sure you will find Nantwich a hidden treasure with thus into the cows’ milk from which the cheese is made. its stunning Tudor architecture, historic buildings and ancient character. Nantwich is fast becoming the North West’s “Gourmet Capital”. It has a regular Farmers’ Market on the last To familiarise yourself with the town’s history be sure to Saturday of every month and on the last weekend of visit the Nantwich Museum on Pillory Street, then hit the September there is the fabulous 3 day Nantwich Food streets in search of more history with the 34 page full and Drink Festival. colour Take a closer look at Nantwich guide available at the Tourist Information Centre within the Civic Hall. It is now billed as “Britain’s Tastiest Festival”.

Mr Baggins says >> When in the area walk the canal to Hack Green Locks and visit The Secret Bunker. 23 24 the baggin man A Village Gem Visits The Weaver Valley Audlem is one of the most picturesque canal villages in And if that does not whet your appetite for canals try a the country and sits at the southern tip of the Weaver drink in the “Shroppie Fly” where the bar comprises a Valley. half narrowboat, but before retiring for that drink, take a stroll into the village to see what else Audlem has to A flight of 15 locks, lowers the Shropshire Union Canal offer. over 90 feet down to the dairylands of southern Cheshire, towpaths lined with damson, hawthorn and Audlem is where the three Shires meet and the main pine trees; two fine canalside pubs, a wharf and a mill - streets are appropriately named Cheshire, Stafford and you have the picture. Shropshire. The canal was built between 1827 and 1835 and was In the square you will find St James Church and the old the last major project of the legendary engineer Thomas Butter Market which until 1914 was used by locals Telford. As well as the locks, the rolling countryside selling cheese and butter. required the construction of huge embankments over For the Baggin Man, the real gem in Audlem is the old streams and also the River Weaver – which passes under traditional sweet shop where he can stock up with the canal just north of the village. cough candy, sherbet and Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls. Audlem is not only a haven for the boating enthusiast And through the shop you will find the Old Priest House but also for the walker, photographer, birdwatcher and Coffee Shop with dishes of freshly cooked food. cyclist. Talk to boaters on the canal system and they will all In the Mill, you will find canalware, maps and books know Audlem and say, “It is one of those canalside with canal art from both established and lesser known villages with so much traditional character”. artists. You can even book yourself onto a course for rag rugging, cross stitch and other needlework crafts.

Mr Baggins says >> If you travel to Audlem by car, the Dagfields Antique and Craft Centre is an emporium 25 worth visiting. 26 the baggin man Getting Afloat Visits The Weaver Valley The Weaver Valley has probably more hire bases than This 97 mile, 50 hour holiday takes you along the Trent anywhere in the country so getting afloat is easy to and Mersey Canal and up Heartbreak Hill to the master. remoteness of the Macclesfield Canal. A few days later you will be travelling through the heart of Manchester On the Trent and Mersey Canal there are bases at and joining the Bridgewater Canal which takes you Preston Brook, Acton Bridge, Anderton and back into rural Cheshire. Middlewich, and bases at Nantwich, Swanley, Bunbury and Beeston on the Shropshire Union Canal. You even pass by the Anderton Boat Lift and through some of the earliest canal tunnels on the network. As Ratty said to Mole, “There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing Can you picture yourself taking a 60 foot steel about in boats.” narrowboat through a half mile tunnel? Add to that the lush countryside and heritage of the If you are just looking for a taster, most of our hire Weaver Valley and you have a winning combination. fleets can also offer you a weekend away or a few hours cruising on their day boat. But what makes getting afloat so popular in the Weaver Valley? Be warned, cruising our canals is addictive. With the relaxation of cruising at 3 miles per hour; the activity at It may be because we sit beside some of the most well- the flights of locks and the fun when you meet other liked routes in the country. boaters and exchange stories - you will be soon One of the most popular is the “Cheshire Ring” which booking a longer break. makes for a comfortable week’s cruising from any of This is one of the few holidays where you are the our local hire bases. captain and can chart your own destiny.

Mr Baggins says >> Canal cruising holidays can be an easy relaxing route or a holiday of adventure and exploration. 27 28 the baggin man My Favourite View Visits The Weaver Valley If there was a competition for the favourite view of the Shortly and alongside the canal is Blue Bell Cottage and Weaver Valley, it would be a difficult one to judge. Lodge Lane Nursery. Lush green countryside brings peace and tranquillity. Although only open from Easter to late September, its The engineering feats of the Anderton Boat Lift magnificent cottage gardens, wildflower meadow and resonates heritage. Discovering the History of Salt gives bluebell woods makes it one of the finest canalside another view of the Valley. garden attractions in the country. Sue Beesley, its proprietor, was the 2006 BBC Gardener of the Year. Perhaps the Baggin Man can recommend a trip that offers some of the most superb views and brings home The canal now meanders through lovely wooded the best of the Weaver Valley? countryside but be prepared for a surprise because it soon breaks out onto a vast bank overlooking the Our route will be from Preston Brook, where the Trent historic Weaver Navigation spanned by the 1830s built and Mersey Canal joins the Bridgewater Canal, to Acton 22-arch Dutton railway viaduct. Bridge where some of the best panoramic views over the River Weaver can be enjoyed. Our short trip is still not complete. As the canal heads towards Northwich, down below you is Davenport’s Within minutes you will be entering the 1,239 yard Florists and Farm Shop, recently awarded Best Local Preston Brook Tunnel bringing you to Dutton Stop Lock, Produce Shop of the Year at the Chester Food Festival with its traditional dry dock and boat yard - which is in a thanks to its fabulous locally produced and organic time warp of its own. foods. Close by is Dutton Park Farm. This 150 acre stunning It is now time to reward yourself - with a hearty meal at location includes ancient woodland, wetland, meadows, the Leigh Arms, down by the swing bridge over the areas of young trees and arable land which define the river. We will then head for Frodsham via the Weaver Weaver Valley. Navigation.

Mr Baggins says >> With hire fleets at both Preston Brook and Acton Bridge, you can hire a day-boat 29 to enjoy this trip. 30 the baggin man A Lesson in History Visits The Weaver Valley I am constantly amazed by the number of visitors who Across the river and before the railway viaduct you will see enjoy the Weaver Valley without getting into a boat. the 1919 built Horse Bridge. Made of laminated small Especially those that ramble our towpaths. wooden timbers, it is one of the most graceful towpath bridges on our waterways. They tell me it is because the paths are well marked, there is plenty of history and usually somewhere special to visit From Pickerings to Frodsham we are now in a beautiful at the end of their trek. green narrow cutting, reminiscent of Vale Royal. In autumn it is absolutely glorious. Our trip from the Leigh Arms at Acton Bridge to Frodsham is no exception and will certainly provide you with a lesson We now turn left along Frodsham Cut, away from the in history. main Weaver Navigation. Hopefully one day the 1780’s Frodsham Lock will be restored allowing boaters to get Standing outside the country pub, it is hard to imagine closer to Frodsham town. that before the existing bridge was built in 1933, the main road went past the front door of the pub. Indeed, prior to Frodsham should not be missed. It has an excellent Street 1887 there were locks at Acton Bridge. Take a look under Market on Thursdays and it is the start of the Sandstone the bridge and you can still see the lock walls and gate Trail - which follows the sandstone ridge from Frodsham recesses. to Whitchurch via Delamere Forest and the Peckforton Hills. Just over a mile ahead of us are the new Dutton Locks which replaced the former Acton Bridge Locks. Before the You will also enjoy Castle Park with its beautiful gardens locks is the sunken wreck “Chica” – it was once a hotel and Art Centre in the old stables. boat on the river. And to complete our lesson in history, you may be Crossing the locks, our walk now takes us from Dutton to interested to know that Castle Park Gardens were Pickerings along the recently installed quarter mile designed by Edward Kemp, who created the first Bridleway. It was a big win for the Weaver Valley team Municipal Park in this country at Birkenhead - of which and visitors to the Valley. New York’s Central Park is an offspring. Mr Baggins says >> Colin Edmondson’s local towpath guides are a great companion when walking the Weaver. 31 32 the baggin man An Exciting Vision Visits The Weaver Valley As our short trip around the Weaver Valley draws to a For many years the town of Northwich has turned its close, I would like you to use your imagination and join back on the river. Now, in our sight, was a visitor me in an exciting journey into the future. destination that could take advantage of the confluence of the Weaver with the Dane and the outstanding It is remarkable how the industrial and commercial heritage around it. demands of yesterday have turned into the tourist activities of today. It was easy to picture a long waterfront creating a riverside “café society” with adjacent shopping, art and We now have a unique opportunity to turn this other tourist attractions. industrial heritage to our advantage by creating an irresistible leisure and visitor destination which will Add to that a tourist and passenger boat service, and transform the Weaver Valley into an incredible and visitor moorings, you have a watercolour that is a unique river landscape for generations to come. tantalising illustration of success. On a lovely summer’s day Bilbo Baggins took a trip up In one direction are the two unique industrial heritage the Weaver to Winsford to explore the opportunities sites of the Anderton Boat Lift and the Lion Salt Works that lay ahead of us. Our special guests were David at Marston, via the Trent and Mersey Canal. Roberts, Chairman of the Trustees of the Lion Salt In the other direction, the Salt Museum and further Works, John Tackley, Chairman of the River Weaver upstream Winsford and its Flashes – an area of natural Navigation Society and Julie Sharman, both General beauty that once were called the Cheshire Broads and Manager, , Wales & Border Counties attracted many visitors from miles around. and a Member of the Weaver Valley Management Board. This is an exciting vision but many would be inclined to add a further chapter to this story. As we passed through Northwich we were absorbed by its exciting Vision for the future.

Mr Baggins says >> Enjoy the Baggin Man’s Vision of Northwich with trip boats, heritage craft and a café society. 33 34 the baggin man The Missing Link Visits The Weaver Valley My trip up the River Weaver with Julie, David, and John The increase in traffic on the River Weaver would be was inspiring. beyond all imagination. It brought home to the Baggin Man that the success of Water borne visitors would demand marinas, shops and the Weaver Valley Park will be through mutual co- cafes. The ability to cruise the “Mid- Cheshire Ring” via operation with a common goal. the River Weaver, Middlewich, and returning by the Trent and Mersey Canal and the Anderton Boat Lift would then As we headed for Winsford, passing the Rock Salt Mines become one of the most sought after routes in the and onto the Flashes, it was obvious one key ingredient country. was missing. Suddenly, Northwich would become alive. The re- The Weaver Valley has a tremendous network of generation of Winsford would become a reality. appealing waterways and its rich cultural heritage along with striking countryside make it a distinctive place to Even the extremities of the Valley at Frodsham, Nantwich visit. and Sandbach would benefit by such a growth in tourism. But what is the missing link? But is this a dream repeating itself? It has to be making the River Weaver a through route. Colin Edmondson, the Weaver Archivist, tells me that Perhaps via an Inclined Plane linking the upper reaches of plans to link the Weaver with the Shropshire Union Canal the Weaver with the Middlewich Branch of the Shropshire were proposed a number of times in the past but Union Canal? commercial traffic could not justify the costs. Our new era of tourism may be different. There is no doubt; the cost of this link would be a substantial undertaking for the public purse and would It is a grand picture we are painting for the Weaver Valley require whole hearted support from all quarters. But the Regional Park. benefits to Cheshire’s economy would be substantial. It is a compelling story to follow.

Mr Baggins says >> Watch out for developments in the Weaver Valley. It has an exciting, vibrant future. 35 Acknowledgements When I set off on my travels to write this book - which is the At Vale Royal, Andrea Peattie and Jeremy Owens have provided third in the Baggin Man series - I seriously underestimated the much support and encouragement on the journey. Andrew scope of the Weaver Valley and what it has to offer. I am, Scully and his graphics team have put the finishing touches and therefore, extremely grateful for the help, assistance and enhanced everyone else’s efforts. guidance I have received in its compilation from many groups My colleagues, who give their time freely, for the Weaver and individuals. Valley, must also be thanked. In particular John Tackley, the My special thanks must go to my artist Bernice Barrett-Brown. Chairman of the Weaver Navigation Society, Colin Edmondson, Bernice’s skill and understanding of the area shine out in every the Weaver Archivist and David Roberts, the Chair of Trustees watercolour. I also know it is these fabulous watercolours that at the Lion Salt Works. make the Baggin Series so popular. Many thanks also to my Once again, the most important thank you must go to my friend, Gordon Wilkinson, the Cheshire Life Artist, for his partner, Joan. Over the last nine months, it has been not stop painting of the Northwich Salt Museum. Weaver Valley! Whilst the 15 watercolours follow the storyline, Malcolm Please remember, you too can become part of the Weaver Roughley’s poem concisely condenses the Valley into four short Valley by joining the many volunteer societies and “friends verses. It is a skill that very few can offer and the poem stands groups” that support our waterways and local heritage. You alone on its own merit. can find further details by visiting our website at Without the support from Vale Royal Borough Council, Mike www.thebagginman.org.uk. Cooksley and his Weaver Valley Team and the other Valley partners, this book would not have been possible. For further copies of this publication and The Baggin Man visits Vale Royal & The Baggin Man Takes the Train visit: www.thebagginman.org.uk or tel: 01606 867531 Bernice Barrett-Brown’s Studio can be visited at www.riverviewstudio.co.uk Malcolm Roughley can be contacted at [email protected]

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For further details of places visited by The Baggin Man Visit the Northwich Tourist Information Centre 1, The Arcade, Northwich CW9 5AS Tel: 01606 353534 John Hulme was born in Northwich and, having recently retired, has re- turned with his partner Joan, to Vale Royal to live in a cottage, overlooking the Trent and Mersey Canal. He has two grown-up children and a grand- son. Educated at the Verdin Grammar School, Winsford, John is the former Chairman and owner of JPD Group Ltd, a management training company, based at Plumley Station House, just outside Northwich. John was a local councillor for Vale Royal in the seventies and is a former Treasurer of the Friends of Anderton Boat Lift. Along with many volunteers in the area he is keen to encourage tourism throughout Vale Royal and the Weaver Valley. He is a committee member of numerous local organisations, including two Community Rail Partnerships, the Lion Salt Works - where he is a Trustee, and the Weaver Valley Regional Park Partnership Working Group - where he is actively working to make the Weaver Valley and its surrounding area into a premier tourist destination in the North West. John passionately believes that its success will depend on the public sector, businesses and the community working together and advises organisations on using this partnership approach as a strategic management tool.

Vale Royal Borough Council Wyvern House, The Drumber, Winsford CW7 1AH Tel: 01606 862862 Fax: 01606 862100 www.valeroyal.gov.uk