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1165 Medallion Drive, St. Paul, Minnesota 55120 * Esslinger & Cb. P.O. Box 64561, St. Paul, Minnesota 55164 VOLUME 13, NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1989 SERVICING TM HOROLOGICAL PENDULUM CLOCKS 20
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute
ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 6 Save That Pendulum HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS 8 Not a Genuine Breguet J.L. ASBROCK WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 14 Truing the Bi-Metal Balance Wheel WES DOOR SHOPTALK 18 Quartz Movement Interchangeability Chart Part3 A A.G. SIMON CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT .,__c__ j B 20 Disassembly and Examination of the Clock Movement I
FRED S. BURCKHARDT ROCK QUARRY 24 Fond Memories of Christmas ~ JOHN A. NAGLE HODGE PODGE LODGE 26 X-tra, X-tra, Read All About It! 30 ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part XXXV/11 30 The Characteristics of Faulty Depths in Gear Trains
JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER TRADE WORK 34 Oil and Lubrication, Part 2 MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL TIPS 36 Remounting Rings LEO A. JAROS LAW CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING 40 A Diagnostic Systems Approach, Part Five 38 HENRY B. FRIED BOOK REVIEWS 42 European Pendulum Clocks American Wristwatches DEPARTMENTS
THOMAS H. WHITE AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Almost Time Again Forum/10 45 Bulletin Board/12 New Members/23
HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Association News/46 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 New Products/News in the Trade/47 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Classified Ads/49 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/52 Advertisers' I ndex/52 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording). George Daniels OHOROLOGICALNTM Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Orville R. Hagans u Dc=JC3DB Robert A. Nelson WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838
Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Donna Baas: Production Director his is a tale of two watchmakers, who Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager shall remain anonymous, that illus Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Ttrates a part of our field that is re- gretable and presents a challenge to A WI in our Mildred Howard: Circulation attempts to upgrade the professional level of our members. TECHNICAL EDITORS: Last summer a retired watchmaker friend of mine, with no quartz training, asked James Adams Wes Door me to service an analog quartz. My encounter Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried with bypass surgery caused him to give it to a trade watchmaker who repaired James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman quartz on a regular basis. Three months later I received the watch, still not Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson running properly. I found the problem in less than five minutes. Without Edgar "Nick" Cleves Archie B. Perkins being too technical, the combination of endshakes and the fact that quartz Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond watches have no constant power to the train caused the sweep hand to Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney contact the minute hand under certain conditions. Easily corrected, but why was that not part of the routine troubleshooting by the previous watch maker? AW/ OFFICERS: The second tale involved a phone call from the son of a family friend. It seems that his Seiko 7 A28 analog chronograph would not reset to Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President zero. A watchmaker in California had held it for nearly three months and, Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President quoting him, "I even used a microscope, but cannot find the problem." The Wes Door, CMW: Secretary ·'problem" was solved over the phone. That "watchmaker" did not know Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer how to reset the chronograph memory after replacing the cell, or using the counter. The owner was partially at fault for not reading the instruction AW/ DIRECTORS: book that came with the watch. Neither of the watchmakers were members of A WI, but it is obvious that they should be. Perhaps too many of us view the quartz watch as a James Adams, CMW highly complicated electronic marvel (which it is), and tend to view every James H. Broughton, CEWS problem as electronic while ignoring the simple things, such as hand clearance Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS and getting proper knowledge of the features of the unfamiliar calibre. The Henry Frystak, CMW analog quartz is a mechanical watch, with a different source of power and Ewell D. Hartman, CMW time standard. It is still subject to the same mechanical malfunctions as the Donald R. Loke mainspring powered movement, only more so because of the low power Ben Matz, CMW involved. Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI The obvious is sometimes the hardest to see. But if we understand Marshall F. Richmond, CMW that almost all problems have a detectable cause, and that the solution requires detective work, common sense, and a little patience, we should keep the problem watches to the minimum. Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director Dwight Tubb: Research and Education Council Director William Biederman, CMW: Past President
Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director ON THE FRONT: The aftermath of a crispy, cold freezing rain. Photographed Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per at Winton Woods Park, north of Cincinnati, Ohio. mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy right©1989 by the American Watchmakers Institute.
2 Horological Times/February 1989 •t (l CLEAN UP WITH THIS OFFER FROMM ELL.
When you buy one hundred Maxell button batteries, we'll give you this mini-vacuum cleaner. Absolutely free. The two-way vacuum cleaner cleans up dust from your delicate merchandise. While Maxell batteries clean up at your cash register. See your AA batteries for vacuum participating Maxell battery distributor for details. operation not included. Offer expires April 30, 1989. Maxell Corporation of America, 22-08 Route 208, Fair Lawn, NJ 07410. Call 800-533-2836 (in NJ: 201-794-5930). ORVILLE R. HAGANS (August 10, 1897 - December 31, 1988) A TRIBUTE
by
Henry B. Fried
very segment of our industry in this country has pro duced men of visionary brilliance. However, in the 1twilight of America's horological productive suprem- acy, there rose one man whose main goal, spirit, and inspira tional theme was the betterment and advancement of his fellow craftsman-the watch repairman. In this country, then, with well over a hundred million American-made and countless imported watches in use, the repairer plodded as an isolated individual, without recognition or meaningful representation. True, there were small, scattered localized guilds and one national horological institute, prestigi ous but with its one thousand or so members, hardly repre sentative of the other 34 thousand watchmakers throughout the country. Orville R. Hagans, whose apprenticeship started His love for his fellow craftsman was returned with honors when he had not reached his teens, had an abiding love for all by appreciative local, state, and national associations in this matters horological: clocks, watches, their history, construc industry. His influence was felt abroad where from honors tion, and design, literature, and mainly for those who made also flowed. Reaching well beyond the biblical three-score and their living repairing timepieces. ten, one would imagine that Mr. Hagans would have justifiably Mr. Hagans' own history reveals a multifaceted career rested on his many laurels. and talents, with background as a musician, military bandleader Later, this tireless energetic initiator was elected to in WWI, educator, editor, publisher, author, museum curator, the highest office of American horology, that of president of entrepreneur, and horological gospelist. He was successful in the American Watchmakers Institute, in his 82nd year. Al each. Reviewing all these activities, one is startled that so though his election was by unanimous vote, this was not a much could be packed into a lifetime however long. token honored office, as he immediately instituted new drives, Despite his successes in many monetarily rewarding goals, actions, and programs. He followed this by embarking areas, Mr. Hagans repeatedly returned to his one overwhelming on a nationwide lecture tour to further strengthen the insti interest-or you might term it a "calling"-that of his fellow tute. He also assisted this writer during that year's European horologists. horological tour. To cap his presidential term, he was the In organizing the United Horological Association of prime personage in the acquisition of the premises of the A WI America, he brought during the severe economic depression of headquarters building. the thirties a sense of pride to watchmakers in many parts of Still later, Mr. Hagans embarked on a project of great rural and urban America. For that organization, he founded proportions-a horological museum for the institute. Together The American Horologist which he enlarged with the purchase with his capable and devoted wife of many years, Josephine, of Levin's Horology. Through it, he provided a sounding board they worked intensely and incessantly for months, soliciting for two of the best contemporary authorities, William H. exhibits, designing display cabinets, appraising and physically Samelius and Jesse E. Coleman, whose contributions and regu laboring to make that project a reality. lar departments in that publication were later edited and In June 19 7 7, a prestigious gathering of the country's published in two separate volumes which are still considered horological leaders watched with emotion and awe as Orville horological mainstays. cut the ribbon in a ceremonious opening of the museum. A Perhaps one of Mr. Hagans' finest contributions to later similar celebration was the burning of the building's the history of American horology was in the uniting of the mortgage by Mr. Hagans. United Horological Association with that of the Horological In his 90th year, on August 10th, 1987, he was Institute of America. The HIA was functioning as an official honored by the Indiana State Watchmakers Association by certifying body with a publication and an unsteadily paid dedicating an entire issue of their Hoosier Horologist to Mr. staff and a dedicated and prestigious group of volunteers. Hagans. The United Horological Association of America Last August (1988), Chapter 21, NAWCC presented catered mainly to the western part of the country with guilds their "First Lifetime Membership Award" to Mr. Hagans. At thinly scattered throughout the rest of the states. With two tending the Rocky Mountain Regional were NAWCC president national organizations with divided strengths yet with a com Tom LaRose, and Tom Bartels, executive director ofNAWCC. mon purpose the obvious could only take place with the re Together they awarded him the rare Silver-Starred Fellow silient cooperation and compromises which resulted in a meet Award. Mr. Hagans then revealed that he was donating his ing of the minds and the eventual formation of the American entire, large library to the NAWCC. His donation, it was Watchmakers Institute. In an especial award citation which claimed, would rank the NAWCC library among the world's this writer was asked to compose, Mr. Hagans was recognized largest. as a motivating spirit and force in the creating of this singular The Orville R. Hagans Horological Museum of the combined and strongly effective institute, which is still grow American Watchmakers Institute will perpetuate his name. ing in influence and strength. Although Orville has departed, his deeds remain immortal, in Mr. Hagans continued his efforts and philanthropy to scribed in the annals of American horology and in the hearts the new institute, enriching the American horological scene. of those who knew him. 'UCIB
4 Horological Times/February 1989 12-19 April 1989 Time for watches, clocks and jewelle--1.111!! Watches, clocks and jewellery for our tim
Pleagc ~~nd mt- ynur cfocumemadon of du: Europ~n W11l(h, Clod.: nnJ Jewellery rafr 'BASEL, 89.
Nnm.1:
Febrnary 1989/Horological Times 5 r>enc.h Tips
SAVE THAT PENDULUM Joe Crooks This tip is from William laggard of Altoona, PA.
aking simple tools to make a job easier can often help speed up many operations. A hardwood anvil will not Mmar anniversary clock pendulums. While serving as a solid support, inserted between the regulating disk and collar, 54 and 55 mod. 400 day clocks, with the locking lever pendu it will compress the spring and open the way for removing or lum as shown in Figure 3. replacing the pin in the lower suspension block. Figure 2 shows how the bottom suspension spring I enjoy your column and most of the other fine block looks. Figure 3 shows the locking levers (A-B); 3A shows articles in the Horological Times. the lock on top of the movement platform; 3B shows the lock on the bottom of the platform. Let me explain Bill's tip a little for clockmakers not Figure 4 (A-B-C) shows the different type pendulum familiar with the locking lever pendulum on Kunda standard hooks. 4A and 4B had. locking levers on top of the clock plat form and used a cotter pin to lock the bottom block to the pendulum-no trouble here to pin or unpin. Figure 1 Figure2 Figure 3 Figure 4C, with the locking lever below the move ment platform, is the stinker! T~e first models that came out after 1954 used a loose brass pm which was easy to remove (the collar and spring keep it in place). Then these "smart guys" came out with a black steel pin that was ridged along t~e T sides. These pins were pressed in and were hard to rem_ove. (Ive seen some of these hooks that looked like they went through a garbage disposal.) Removing this pin is what Bill's good tip is all about. MI aI5r.r Set the wood anvil with the slot up and drive the pin into the A 8 hole in the bottom of the slot with a punch. I don't see any ~PIN reason for this pin to friction fit. Put it in your lathe and re Figure 4 COLLAR move the ridges around the side before replacing. (I think this was done just to annoy us Americans!) '1Cll
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6 Horological Times/February 1989 CASIO TYPE SPORT STRAPS ULTRAVIOLET CURING MINERAL CRYSTAL CEMENT Ultraviolet curing cement (TO-UVA1) is used to bond mineral glass on to Part# watch cases. It bonds like an epoxywithoutthe mess. Applying the adhesive with the extra fine dispensing needle (TO-IJVT1) insures a neat and uniform BB-35-18 seal. To cure the UV cement, place the portable UV lamp (TO-UVL) on the 18mm crystal for TWO minutes. Only the cement between the glass and the case will cure. Excess cement can be removed with and alcohol soaked Q-tip. BB-354-20 20mm
88_351 _19 ULTRAVIOLET CRYSTAL CEMENT 19mm (Includes dispensing needle) TO-UVA1 •••• $4.95 ea. REPLACEMENT NEEDLES TO-UVTIP •••••••• $.95 ea. BB-352-18 18mm
BB-355-19 19mm PORTABLE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT SOURCE TO-UVL ••••••••...••••••.•...•••••...... ••••••••••••••. $34.95 ,I ' BB-353-20 20mm 1------1 CLEAR CRYSTAL BLANKS (Very Thin) Simply grind plastic crystal blank to BB-351-12 12mm the correct size and fit into bezel. (0.30" to .040" Thick) 7 Piece Assortment BB-CTB7 ••••...... •••••••• $6.50 $.95 each, $9.50 /dozen-one Style CC-CCB12 {12 Pcs.) •••••• $4.95 doz. Minimum fl:.e\\Uft.~~t:• G-SHOCK TYPE BAND Order MINERAL GLASS CRYSTAL ASSORTMENT ..,.,5pECeacl1 (Sub for Casio DWSOOOC & DW5200C) 1 Dozen {12.0mm to 36.0mm ROUND-1mm THICK) s1.50 ~;-MG24 •••....••.••~ ••••.•..••••••••... $48.00 ! ~ · CC-MG48 ••••••••••••••••••••.•..•.•.•.•• $96.00 0/) (48 Pc. Assortment in .Smm increments) Original G-Shock DW5000C / 5200C ...... $5.50each Individual crystals available from 12mm to 36mm in .1 mm increments. BB-GS819/12 (12 Pieces) •..•.....•...... • $18/doz. Order by milimeter size - $2.25ea. 3 or more $2.00ea.
ESA CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH COILS CASE REFINISHING RUBBER Limited Supply CASE REFINISHING RUBBER is used on stainless 202.001 circuit board ...... $9.00 951.111 with coil ...... $11.50 steel, brushed finished surfaces only. Use the coarse 202.001 coil ...... $9.00 955.112 with coil ...... $11.50 block to buff out larger imperfections and the fine block 556.111 with coil ...... $10.50 956.111 with coil ...... $11.50 578.002 with coil ...... $8.50 976.001 with coil ...... $12.95 to restore original finish. 588.001 with coil ...... $9.50 977.001 with coil ...... $11.95 950.001 with coll ...... $11.50 978.002 with coil ...... $10.50 TO-CRR2 ••••••.••...... ••••••• $9.95
RENATA BULK PACK- ORDER IN MULTIPLES OF 25 ESA 201.001 (SAVE MONEY WHEN ORDERING IN BULK PACKAGING) Limited Supply Actual Size GUARANTEED FRESH Setting the 201.001 is done by pressing the ~ push button on the caseback. The hands •. 362R ..... $.39 395R •••.. $.39 will be set electrically. 4 1/4 Ligne, 2.25mm f; 364R ••••• $.29 396R ....• $.39 Thick, 9.90mm Round. 371R ••••• $.39 397R ••••• $.39 ESA 201.001 •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• $54.00 392R ..... $.24 399R ...•. $.39 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC
NOT A GENUINE BREGUET
I have been restoring a repeater watch and would like some Q information. The watch is fusee driven, made by Breguet. The bottom plate measures 50 mm and the top plate measures 42.5 mm. The case has the numbers 36678 and 308. AU is stamped above the 308, also a hallmark. The movement does not have any numbers stamped on it. It seems to be a quarter repeater. The hour pallet is missing. The hour rack is between a ratchet wheel and the re peating mainspring barrel. If I am right, it should have a pallet connected directly on one of the striking hammers. Can you help me to determine watch? how to repair the hour strike on this Michael 0. Laughlin Carrollton, IL
First of all, this watch is not a genuine Breguet watch. His '11 J'l name was loosely placed on all types of watches, yet each "counterfeiter" had some sort of conscience. Breguet numbered all his watches and made detailed records of each. When his serial - <) ized production reached 5999, he started • • a new series. The imitators knew this and usually put numbers in excess of this since they knew he would easily check on any fake. Yours is much, much higher. Its quality, too, is nowhere in the vicinity of a Breguet product, case, dial, or parts. However, from an examination, I can see the absence of the snail flirt. This is easily explained in the LeCoultre book, "A Guide to Complicated Watches. " I have made copies from books in my own library of ancient repeating systems. The books I used are by Diderot of the 1780 period, Rees of early 1810, and Reid of 1820. From these you should be able to realize what is missing from your watch and make that part. The hour snail, from inspection of your photos, appears to be in place. The hour pallet can be made if missing. not be of any help. The information mentioned above can The hallmark on the case de guide you to a replacement. notes silver ofNeuchatel after 1852. Breguet's repeaters are much Henry B. Fried more advanced than yours and would 'ULill 8 Horological Times/Febrnary 1989 Flat Waterproof Gaskets
REFILL STOCK WIDTH OF llfSIJ>E OUTSIDE WATERPROOF NUMBER NUMBER Ill.HD lllM OJA.II /II DIA.llVll 00 616 .60 15.90 17.IO o. 616! .so 16.50 17.50 OA 617 .55 16.90 18.00 GASKETS :::1::: OB 618 .55 18.00 19.10 oc 619l .so 19.20 20.20 l. 619f .60 19.80 21.00 IA 620! .60 20.35 21.50 lB 621 .60 21.00 22.20 2. 621! .60 21.60 22.80 -~ING 3. 622! .60 22.35 23.4S 3A 623 .50 22.90 23.90 4. 623! .60 23.40 24.60 s. 62S .65 25.00 26.30 Borel 0-Ring Gaskets 6. 626 .60 26.00 27.20 7. 6261 .65 26.80 28.10 for Case.backs and 8. 6271 .60 27.85 29.10 9. 6281 .60 28.55 29.75 Battery hatches 0-Ring Price JO. 717 .70 17.00 18.40 11. 7181 .70 18.60 20.00 60/1 1 each of 86 sizes 18.75 12. 720! .70 20.60 22.00 Cross section - inside diameter (in mm) 60/1 B 1 each of 120 sizes 26.00 12A 723 .75 23.JO 24.60 13. 724 .75 24.00 25.50 60/3 3 each of 86 sizes 37.50 13A 724! .70 24.60 26.00 Battery 60-1750 75-2760 90-2670 14. 725! .70 2S.6S 27.00 60/38 3 each of 120 sizes 52.50 14A 726 .75 26.00 27.50 Hatch 60-1790 75-2790 90-2710 61/1 1 each of 42 sizes 10.95 JS. 726! .75 26.50 28.00 Gaskets 60-1970 75-2825 90-2740 16. 727 .70 27.JO 28.50 62/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 6.25 17. 7271 .7S 27.50 29.00 45--0810 * 60-2100 75-2880 90-2780 18. 727! .70 27.70 29.10 40-1100 * 60-2165 75-2910 64/3 3 ea of 22 thin sizes 19.95 18A 728 .75 28.00 29.50 90-2810 19. 728t .70 28.20 29.60 40-1250 * 60-2500 75-2940 90-2840 19A 728! .70 28.60 30.00 60-1000 20. 729 .70 29.00 30.40 * 60-2700 * 75-2970 90-2850 Round Flat Price 21. 730 .75 30.00 31.50 60-2800 * 75-2990 90-2860 21A 7301 .70 30.40 31.50 Case back 60-2900 * 75-3005 90-2880 58/1 1 each of 91 sizes 26.50 22. 7311 .75 31.50 33.00 Gaskets 58/3 3 each of 91 sizes 55.70 60-2950 75-3080 90-2900 23. 817t .80 17.20 18.80 35-1800 * 60-3000. 75-3100 90-2930 55/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 16.50 24. 818l .80 18.20 19.80 2S, 819t .80 19.30 20.90 35-2000 * 60-3190 75-3140 90-2950 26. 821! .80 21.60 23.20 35-2100 * 60-3260 90-2980 26A 823] .80 2S.50 25.10 New Black Flat Price 26B 824] .80 24.60 26.20 35-2400 * 60-3400 80-1650 90-3000 26C 825) .80 25.60 27.20 35-2500 * 80-1690 90-3020 59/2 2 each of 30 sizes 19.95 27. 8261 .85 26.30 28.00 28. 826! .80 26.60 28.20 70-1760 80-1750 90-3040 29. 826l .80 26:80 28.40 40-1400 * 70-1850 80-1870 90-3050 30. 827J .85 27.30 29.00 31. 8271 .80 27.60 29.25 40-1500 * 70-1890 80-2030 90-3060 32. 8271 .80 27.85 29.50 40-1600 * 70-1930 80-2100 90-3100 33. 828 .80 28.00 29.60 34. 828l .80 28.35 29.90 40-1700 * 70-1960 80-2750 90-3140 ""'°""'"' 35. 8281 .80 28.70 30.30 40-1900 * ~ 36. 8291 .80 29.40 31.00 70-1980 80-2800 90-3160 New Black Flat 37. 830! .85 30.60 32.30 40-2300 * 70-2080 80-2840 90-3180 38. 83lf .80 31.65 33.30 40-2700 * 70-2130 80-2900 90-3200 (soft rubber) 39. 834! .80 34.20 35.80 40-2780 70-2330 80-2910 40. 913! .90 13.20 lS.00 40-2800 * 70-2470 80-2930 95-2050 Refill Inside Outside 41. 917 .90 16.90 18.70 40-2900 70-2660 80-2960 # diameter diameter 42. 918 .95 18.05 19.95 95-2840 42A 9201 .90 20.20 22.00 40-3000 * 70-2710 80-3050 95-2960 43. 921 .90 21.00 22.80 40-3070 70-2760 101 15.00 x 17.00 44. 922! .90 22.40 24.20 80-3070 95-3000 102 17.00 x 18.00 45. 9251 .90 25.25 27.00 40-3080 70-2780 80-3130 95-3180 103 17.80 x 18.70 46. 9251 .95 25.55 27.45 70-2810 80-3160 95-3360 104 1 B.50 x 19.50 47. 926l .90 26.80 28.50 105 19.20 x 20.30 48. 928! .90 28.20 30.00 50-1650 * 70-2870 80-3240 106 19.50 x 20.50 49. 9281 .90 28.60 3045 50. 929 .90 28.90 107 20.00 x 21.25 30.70 50-1770 70-2900 80-3280 100-1900 SL 93U .95 31.20 33.10 50-2030 70-2940 100-2625 108 21.00 x 22.50 52. 9321 .95 32.80 34.70 109 22.25 x 23.75 53. 9331 .90 33.20 35.00 50-2070 70-2980 85-1880 100-2750 110 23.00 x 25.00 111 24.00 x 25.50 50-2200 * 70-3005 85-2330 100-2850 54. l022i 1.05 22.40 2UO 112 23.50 x 25.50 50-2400 * 70-3020 85-2660 100-2910 55. 1024 1.00 24.00 26.00 113 24.00 x 26.00 56. 1024] 1.00 24.50 26.!;0 50-2500 * 70-3060 85-2790 100-2930 114 25.50 x 26.50 57. 1025 1.00 24.90 26.90 50-2600 * 70-3080 85-2840 115 26.00 x 27.50 58. J026J 1.00 26.50 28.50 100-2950 116 26.50 x 27.50 59. 10261 1.05 26.80 28.90 50-2700 * 70-3140 85-2940 100-2975 117 26.50 x 28.50 60. 1027 1.00 27.00 29.00 50-2800* 70-3200 100-3000 118 27.00 x 28.50 61. 10281 1.05 28.70 30.80 119 27.25 x 28.75 62. 1029 1.00 29.00 31.00 50-2840 70-3260 90-1830 100-3050 120 28.00 x 29.25 63. 10291 1.00 29.RO 31.80 64. 1032.l 1.00 32.30 34.30 50-2900 * 70-3300 90-1850 100-3075 121 28.00 ·x 29.50 50-3000 122 28.50 x 29.50 * 90-1880 100-3175 123 29.00 x 30.00 65. Jl25l l.10 25.25 27.ov 50-3100 * 75-1650 90-1920 100-3200 124 28.50 lt 30.40 65A ll27t I.JO 27.25 29.40 50-3200 * 75-1880 90-2050 100-3280 125 29.00 x 30.50 126 28.75 x 30. 75 66. 1224l 1.20 24.80 27.20 50-3300 * 75-1920 90-2070 127 29.50 x 31.00 67. 1226 1.20 26.00 28.40 75-1980 90-2130 *New size 128 30.00 x 31.50 li8. 12271 1.15 27.20 29.50 129 30.00 x 32.00 69. 1228 1.20 28.00 30.40 60-1450 75-2160 90-2220 70. 1230 1.25 30.00 130 31 .50 • 33.50 32.50 60-1550 75-2600 90-2510 71 . 1230.l I.IS 30.70 33.00 72. 1235 1.20 35.15 37.55
Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk - 1 ·800·333·4646 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk - 1·800·772·3456
February 1989/Horological Times 9 shop for a specific time interval (say 1, 3, or 6 months). Add up all expenses such as rent, advertising, salaries, sup FORUMThe FORUM is a column devoted to the discussion and plies, parts, insurance, taxes, association debate of horological piffle, practices, and problems. Comments can be controversial, but should always re fees , and, of course, profit. Then divide main within the bounds of good taste. Responses should be sent to: AWi FORUM, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, your financial needs by the number of OH 45211. working hours in the time period. The Albert Dodson Ralph Geiger result will give you your hourly rate. For CMC CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI a hypothetical example , we will use these randomly selected figures: THOUGHTS ON REPAIR RATES theory but I don't think it would work Monthly expenses = $3200 well in the field of horology. There are Monthly man/hours= 160 hours do not favor the idea of a flat many different ways to overhaul a time Hourly shop rate= 3200 + 160 = I rate guide for calculating repair piece. Some repair shops clean the move $20 per hour ments assembled, others will disassemble charges. If I understand Mr. Waters' ex Now calculate how long it takes the movements, and others will polish ample correctly, a high grade automatic you to repair the watches and clocks that watch which came in for an overhaul pivots, check escapements, and do other typically cross your bench. If it takes should be allotted two hours bench time. time-consuming work. The time taken to three hours, at a rate of $20/hour, then I would then multiply my hourly rate do an overhaul will vary considerably the estimate would be $60. If this price is by two, add the charges for parts, and ar from shop to shop. Before a flat rate too high for your area, then you need to rive at my final price. This sounds good in guide could be compiled, shouldn't there re-evaluate your expenses and/or your be a universally accepted definition of work efficiency and if necessary take EDITOR'S NOTE: In the December 1988 'overhaul'? measures to improve them. issue, under "Forum" ("Repair Rates"), I don't think it is necessary to I feel that quality work should Mr. Waters wrote that more than 10 years compile a book to tell us what we should be given a price to reflect that quality. ago A WI periodically published price charge our customers. There have been surveys. This is true; however, the FTC Many of us earn our living by repairing excellent articles published in Horological eventually ruled that such surveys could clocks and watches, but there are also Times giving advice on pricing policies. be used for price fixing and warned many people who repair them as a hobby. We all have different expenses, needs, and against the publication of surveys in the Doing repair work as a hobby is fine as abilities. One way to calculate prices is future. A WI has refrained from this ac long as it does not severely undercut the tivity since the FTC ruling. to calculate the financial needs of the professional. If you do professional work, charge a professional rate. Please don't charge $5 for a $60 repair. Such practice lowers the public's perception of what is a fair repair rate. BUL Greg Hostetter
We are pleased to announce the availability of our new case component information on Bulova and Caravelle watches. CLOCK CLEANING SOLUTIONS This information lists all six digit case numbers with their corresponding component part numbers. If is a curious fact that there is To assist you when ordering parts through your Authorized a drastic variation between the compo sition of most clock cleaning solutions Bulova Material Distributor, send for this computer printout listing and watch cleaning solutions. Perhaps (see sample below). the most notable component of differ ence is water. Water is virtually never seen CROWN BAK.SASK BE CASE NO. TYPE BUL. CAL. VEN. CAL CRYSTAL ------as the base of watch cleaning solutions. -----~~~-l~~~~----~~~;~~~---~~;;~------~()21\:;Y i One might infer that it is considered un X suitable and potentially harmful. If this XT3l4bll/SL 102B-421Y 64038 X Sl'IQ 2500.30 SUL.CH. 38 l is the case, why is it acceptable for use on lT3147~/Sl !02B-421Y 640 Sl'IQ 2500.30 BUL.CH. 6'043 clocks? Clocks are often as delicate and as SllQ 2692.10 ESA 95b.111 XT314Bll/Sl 1.~0~2B~-4,...7""'1v- ...~-- ..... u valuable as their smaller counterparts, Siii! 2623, l(IH Ill. C and as such it would seem that they are deserving of equivalent care. Can a water based solution honestly be considered a suitable means by which to clean a clock? Forward check or money order for $5.00 (per set) to: Might not a commercially prepared, BULOVA CORPORATION chemical-based solution be more appro MATERIAL SALES/TECH. INFORMATION priate? ONE BULOVA AVENUE WOODSIDE, NEW YORK 11377 GOT AN OPINION? GOT THE FACTS? WRITE US WITH YOUR THOUGHTS!
~
10 Horological Times/February 1989 Panasonic Watch Battery Kit .:.;.,
'' 260 Asst. Cells 11 Available Two Ways:
ASIS...... ~1~~
FREE CABINET & DRAWER STICKERS FREE AWi INTERCHANGABILITY BOOK FREE BATTERY TESTER
Panasonic®
For your closest distributor call 1(800)873-CELL Panasonic
February 1989/Horological Times 11 BULLETIN OARD NEW for '89! A. NEW REQUESTS Introducing ... "CORNIOLEY" AIRCRAFT CLOCK TOLEDO JEWELERS Jackson, Ohio member Walter Zian is seeking a source new. exclusive line of for spare parts for an aircraft clock which has the name "Cornioley" on its dial. We have checked with sources in our files, but find no leads for this brand clock. {(IMAGES" PARSON'S HOROLOGICAL INSTITUTE Member David Nicholson of Enid, OK is trying to locate someone who might still have records from the Parson's ... Fine Fashion Watches Horological Institute which was located in Peoria, IL. His grandfather graduated from this institution in 1898.
RCA 812-A TUBE Lorraine Cusher of Hyde Park, NY is hoping a fellow watchmaker can help by naming a source for an RCA 812-A tube which is used in an "Interlab" GL 50 A or GI 50 A ultrasonic cleaning machine.
SCHEMA TIC FOR WATCHMASTER CLEANING MACHINE Paul Montigny, an AWI member from Reading, PA, is seeking a schematic for a Watchmaster cleaning machine, type A-1. If you have a schematic, we will copy it and return it to you.
WINDING COILS FOR OLD ELECTRIC CLOCKS Howard Thompson of Owatoma, MN writes: Are there any publications available on rewinding coils for some of the older electric clocks? It would be relatively simple to do if one knew how many turns, wire diameter, etc. Some of these clocks are well worth restoring, especially 11 if they are a family heirloom. If anyone has details that might help Mr. Thomp "IMAGES son, we are sure other "Bulletin Board" readers would A TIME FOR FASHION! also be interested. Please let us hear from you. we have created a line of watches that have the LUBRICANT ABLE TO WITHSTAND EXTREME COLD distinctive high-fashion look of expensive Raymond Sambs of Rhinelander, WI is seeking information watches. In fact, your customers wlll have to about lubricants that might be suitable for the platform turn over the price tag to see the biggest escapement of timers used by the Forestry Service where difference. Prices ranging from as little as $39. 95 the temperature can reach -30 degrees Fahrenheit. to $69.95
12 Horological Times/February 1989 YOU DON'T NEED 1503 Oyster perpetual date dial Also six unidentified dials All materials are new. Also have some crowns, case THIS TOOL! tubes and miscellaneous materials. (if you have 3 hands) NEW HA VEN CALENDAR CLOCK John Stiff of Bad Axe, MI responded to the request for information about the New Haven Calendar clock, he wrote: I have such a clock which has been in our business since 1918, and on the back is a former store label previous to 1918. Mr. Stiff even went to the trouble of removing the dial of his clock to make several photographs which he enclosed to help our member in Indianapolis, IN. This is a perfect example of AWI's motto "AWI is Horologists Helping Horologists."
C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED
EXCESSIVE SPRING BARREL WEAR? Tom Perkins asks whether others are experiencing wear in the spring barrels of some modern German-made clock movements. He reports excessive side shake between the barrel covers and arbors similar to the catastrophic plate wear that David Arnold wrote about in 1982. AWI has not had complaints on this subject and would like to hear from others if they are having such a problem, and if so, with which particular clocks?
IDENTIFICATION OF GERMAN-MADE CLOCK Lewis Johnson seeks to identify the maker of a German 1-._..... made clock using a logo which he describes as follows: ~- -~·-·--~~ ·- · ·-· t ...... displays a half moon with the letters D.R.G.M. around it below that is a lion and below the lion is U.M. below the U.M. is the number 177580 below this is the word "Germany" HOWEVER; when you need an extra hand, DETAILS ABOUT "THE MOUSE IN THE CLOCK" This could be just the tool required. Howard Crofoot if seeking information about a clock A hand vise made specifically for the called "The Mouse in the Clock." It is made by Dugan assembly and disassembly of the new Clump, an old manufacturer from Philadelphia, PA. AWi style link bands which use screws. has a replica of this clock marketed for a number of years This vise is fitted with an adjustable by the Horolovar Company of Bronxville, NY, but we have table to accept different band thick nothing on the Dugan-Clump version. nesses. Manufactured by BERGEON, one of the finest names in the precision tool industry. DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION REGARDING TIDS MONTH'S REQUESTS? Vise only with one blade ...... $21.95 Vise complete with 4 blades, screwdriver DO YOU NEED INFORMATION and wooden stand ...... $42.95 ABOUT ONE OF THIS MONTH'S RESPONSES? Order by No. 6607 If so, send a self-addressed stamped business-size envelope and your request to the address below DISTRIBUTED BY:
BULLETIN BOARD Horological Times ray gaber co. 3700 Harrison Avenue 800 PENN AVE.e PITTSBURGH, PA 15222 e 412/281-4323 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 CALL TOLL FREE PA 800-792-2820 NATIONAL 800-245-5090
February 1989/Horological Times 13 WATtJHE~ J. L. Asbrock
TRUING THE BI-METAL BALANCE WHEEL
atchmakers today are finding it quite profitable to service older pocket watches. Many of these time Wpieces are fitted with the compensating bi-metal balance wheel. Often the wheel has been mistreated over the years; it is a reflection on your craftsmanship if you do not re store it to proper condition. These balance wheels must be trued both in the flat and in the round. Whenever the balance Figure 1 is untrue at the arms, it has almost always resulted from a poor staffing job. The balance hole is seldom found to be out of center. It usually has resulted by a repairer having knocked out the old staff without turning off the rivet prior to removing the old staff. Ideally, the balance should fit the staff friction tight; then just a few taps will rivet it securely to the balance wheel. If the staff fits the balance hole quite loosely, heavier blows are required to secure it; this usually results in damage to the balance wheel arms around the hole. Often an over-cautious repairer will want to make certain the staff is tight and admin ister more blows of the hammer than are necessary. This too results in damage to the arm around the hole. When the bal ance wheel has been repeatedly damaged in this way it may be virtually impossible to get the balance wheel absolutely true again. In this case one must settle for a less-than-perfect job if a replacement balance wheel is not practical. When this con dition does exist, care must be taken to insure that the balance from at least two vantage points. By turning the wheel ninety wheel does not touch or rub any other part, and the balance degrees from the first observation point, you will often note a wheel should be poised as good as it possibly can be. bend in a pivot that was not apparent on the first examina There are many ways to approach the task of truing tion. The shape of the pivots should also be observed. Some a bi-metal balance wheel, and no one way should be considered times they will be found to be flat on one side, blunted on the best. From experience and knowledge, each watchmaker will end, or not truly cylindrical but pointed at the end. Pivot develop a method that works best for him/her. I like to begin work or staff replacement should be done at this point if nec by examining the pivots carefully. Be sure to examine them essary.
14 Horological Times/February 1989 With the pivots in good order the balance wheel must be examined to determine if it is true in both the flat and the round. The tool most often used for testing the truth of a balance wheel is the calipers. Calipers can be found with a variety of features. The first one I had was in the shape of a figure eight (Figure 1). Later I found the calipers shown in Figure 2 to be much more to my liking. The indicator mount ed on the frame swivels around and can be arranged so that it can be set close to the rim of the balance wheel; thus, by turning the balance wheel you can see the exact point where it might be out of true. width of this band of light My first calipers, the figure eight, did not have a will indicate where a cor mounted, pivoting indicator; in its place I used a piece of rection needs to be made. metal which was slotted to accommodate the rim of the bal To begin the truing operation of a wheel that is badly ance wheel. This piece of metal was held in place by the fin distorted, using the fingers and sight judgements to return the gers while the balance wheel was carefully turned. My mentor wheel to some degree of normalcy is the best approach. Then used an old depthing tool for the purpose of truing a balance the wheel should be trued in the flat, a task that usually is wheel. By putting the balance wheel in one pair of runners, not too difficult. Place the balance wheel in the calipers and he then used one of the other runners which had been flat position the indicator as described in the previous paragraph. tened at one end, on one side, as the indicator. The distance You can now compare the height of one arm of the balance was easily adjusted, and any irregularity could at once be wheel with that of the other arm. If an adjustment is needed detected. to position both arms of the balance wheel at equal height Regardless of the type calipers you choose to use, the at opposite sides of the wheel, the fingers will often serve as indicator should be adjusted so that it is positioned over the the best bending tool. If considerable bending force is needed, rim of the wheel so that it almost touches it. The arm of the grip the arm of the balance wheel as close to the center as pos wheel should be just under the indicator so that a very fine sible in something that will not touch the balance rim and will line of light shows between the indicator and the wheel (see not mar the balance wheel arm. While holding the balance Figure 3). The width of the line of light must be carefully wheel tight, the fingers or a piece of pegwood can be used as a noted, then, as the wheel is turned. Any visible variance in the pusher to bend the arm either up or down.
e CRYSTAL GRINDER $237.50
e F-BLK-50 ASS'T - 1 GROSS FLAT UNFINISHED TEMPERED BLANKS (1 mm. flat in variety of shapes) ...... $171.50
• RG-1 ASS'T 1 GROSS REGULAR BLANKS (inside height with no walls) ...... $205.00
• VIDEO TAPE FITTING GLASS WATCH CRYSTALS ...... $29.50 $643.60 SPECIAL PRICE TO INCLUDE ALL OF THE ABOVE ...... $550.00 In addition, each system includes a Vernier Gauge, Crystal Cement, practice crystals/bezels, and finished and blank crystal catalogues. ORDER FROM YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER
AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 Eleventh Ave. New York, NY 10036
February 1989/Horologi,cal Times 15 Once you have the balance wheel true in the flat, AWi the more difficult task of getting it true in the round is at hand. First you will need to determine that both arms of the REFERRAL balance wheel are the same length, because a careless staffing job can leave one arm stretched longer than the other. If your SERVICE observation reveals that one arm is longer than the other, you have no choice other than to stretch the shorter arm to match Robert L. Macomber the length of the longer one. With the roller removed, the bal CMC ance wheel should be placed in a snug fitting hole of a flat stump . Then place a peening punch on the short arm as close to the center of the balance wheel as the staff will permit. Tap with very light blows, and check frequently in the calipers to obility aptly describes the current population of see if the proper distance has been achieved. the United States. People are retiring earlier and When you are certain that both arms are identical in M moving to new locales, and businesses are moving length, place the balance in the calipers again, and adjust the their employees all over the country. indicator so that there is just a fine line of light displayed be Many customers who are moving wish to know of a tween the rim of the balance wheel at the arm position. As reliable clockmaker or watchmaker to care for their time you turn the wheel the length of one arc of the balance wheel, keepers. In moving a clock, for example, proper packing is you can see at what point(s) the strip of daylight varies. Do essential to insure safe arrival and proper setup at the new lo the same thing with the other arc of the wheel. Almost always cation. Grampa'a heirloom pocket watch which many people you will observe that the free ends of the arcs have been bent are using will need periodic servicing. Who can our customers inward. If this is all that is wrong, you can adjust the dis turn to? How about AWi members? crepancy by pulling the arcs out true again with the fingers. At the most recent Annual Meeting, your AWi Continue this operation until you see no variation. Unfortun Directors decided to establish a Referral Service which you can ately, the operation is not always this simple. Sometimes the offer to your customers. The formation of the Service depends arcs appear wavy and more extensive corrective action is re entirely on you, the AWi member. Here's how the Service. quired. would work: If extensive bending is required to correct this wavy 1) Each AWi member who wishes to be included condition, it will be necessary to remove some or all of the bal should fill out a simple form found on this month's ance wheel screws. To insure replacing them in their proper mailing envelope and forward it to AWi Central. places, press the screws in some orderly pattern into pithwood. The information provided would be name, address, To true a wavy rim a bending tool is needed. Most modern telephone number, specialty, and certification if calipers come with such a tool. One can be made from a stout appropriate. piece of plastic such as might be found in a brush handle, or 2) A file by zip code would be established at AWi a flat piece of brass will make a satisfactory tool. The tool Central. Upon inclusion in the file AWi Central stock should be cut to about three inches in length and filed or will send you confirmation of your participation ground to shape. A notch that will just fit over the rim of the in the Service. An appropriate counter card ad balance wheel should be filed at the end. Another tool with a vising your customers of the Service will be pro little wider notch might also prove to be useful. vided for your shop or store. 3) Upon a request from your customer for a reli able clockmaker or watchmaker, ask for the cus tomer's new zip code. Then you contact AWi Figure 4 Central for a listing of AWi members in the zip The balance should be mounted in the calipers and code and adjacent zip coded area. the indicator moved into position as before. Beginning at the 4) Give this listing to your customer and wish him arm of the balance wheel, turn the wheel until the light gap well. It should be explained to the customer that between the indicator and the balance rim will show where the this listing carries no recommendation but rather first correction needs to be made. Using the tool as a lever, signifies that the name is that of an AWi member gently maneuver the rim in or out as required. Continue this who has access to the latest technical informa process bending where necessary , until the arc has been brought tion necessary to perform reliable service work. into true. Repeat the same procedure on the other arc. A word of caution: while using the tool as a lever, be sure to hold it straight, to prevent you from introducing a twist HAVING either up or down in the rim of the balance wheel. Such a twist can be extremely difficult to correct. When the balance AWi HOTLINE wheel seems to be true in the round, recheck it in the flat (513)661-4636 making any correction that may be required, then replace the screws and clean the balance wheel. Poising the balance wheel will be the next order of operation. We will cover that in a future issue . 'U[]B
16 Horological Times/Febrnary 1989 JEWELRY INDUSTRY DISTRIBUTORS ASSOCIATION BEA Become a JIDA member and you will join some of the leading companies in the jewelry distribution industry. Companies like Cas-Ker, Fargotstein, Jadow-Vigor, Panasonic, Seiko, Zantech, and many others.
JIDA will help you: • Find new money making ideas and products. •Communicate with others who share the same ideas and problems. .· • Become better educated and more productive. • Become a better manager and motivator. t::: • Attend annual conventions at first class resorts at reduced rates. F • Improve your organization's selling skills. ,,,,, • Make new friends.
Become a JIDA member and you will get a fresher and more enthusiastic attitude about your business. JIDA has memberships available for both distributors (active) and vendors (associate). Would you like to join us at this year's convention? It will be held from March 8 through 11 in warm and sunny Florida at Saddlebrook, Tampa Bay's great golf and tennis resort. (1990's convention will be in exciting Las Vegas!) Call JIDA headquarters and ask about our special discounted introductory membership. We will be glad to send you a convention and membership brochure free of charge!
CALL NOW! 1-301-752-3318 .______'3!!PJ 113 W. Franklin St. Baltimore, MD 21201
February 1989 /Horological Times 17 SHOPTALK
Wes Door, CMW
QUARTZ MOVEMENT INTERCHANGEABILITY CHART PART 3
Last month's chart included sizes 7% to 11 Y2 ligne. This month we will continue with 11 Yz ligne and conclude this series.
A B c D E F G H A B c D E F G H Our Llgne Thick· Model Features Dial Hands AWi Our Llgne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi No. Size ness Number or inter- Feet Cell No. Size ness Number or inter· Feet Cell changes Pos. No. changes Pos. No. 1rn 3.60 ESA 926.311 MM llY, 4.20 ESA 554.122 NN
111-S 3.70 ESA 554.111 Disc. MM G S28 11 Y, 4.20 ESA 954.121 NN
11 Y, 3.70 ESA 554.112 MM II y, 4.25 Ronda 377 S.S./D.D. NN I S28
111-S 3.70 ESA 954.111 MM llY2 4.45 ISA 1198/40 NN II y, 111-S 3.75 Ronda375 S.S./Cal. MM I S28 4.95 ESA 952.121 NN
1rn 3.85 ESA 963.111 Replaces MM I S28 II Y, 5.50 ESA 9362 NN 963.114 II Y, 5.50 ESA 536.121 Use NN I S04 11Yi 3.85 ESA 963.113 MM 955.121
llY2 3.90 ISA 1198.30 MM llY2 4.50 ESA 960.101 pp
I 1'h 4.50 ESA 952.111 MM II y, 4.50 ESA 960.111 QQ
llY> 4.95 ESA 952.112 MM I !Yz 3.35 HP6640 RR
l1Y2 5.50 ESA 9361 MM llYz 3.35 HP6640A RR
l!Y> 5.50 536.111 Disc. MM I S04 11 Yz 3.90 HP6641 RR
llY, 3.00 ESA 955.121 S.S. NN G SIS II y, 3.90 HP6641A RR Day/Date 11 Y, 3.60 Junghans SS llY, 3.00 ESA 955.122 NN 633.50
llY, 3.00 PUW253 S.S./D.D. NN G Sl8 I IV. 3.60 Junghans SS Spaceline 633.51
llY> 2.45 ESA 255.121 NN 111-l 3.60 Junghans TT 633.60 llY, 3.25 ESA 555.122 NN 11V. 3.60 Junghans TT II y, 3.35 Ronda 3977 NN 633.61 l1Y2 II Yi 3.40 FE 7222 NN 3.40 FE 7228 II Yi 3.45 ESA 555.121 NN 111-l 3.85 ESA 957.011
111-S 3.50 PUW683 NN 111-l 3.95 Ronda 377R S.S./D.D. I S28 4.25? I IY, 3.50 PUW683A NN 111-l 4.80 ESA 870.101 Disc. K SlO llYz 3.80 ESA 944.121 NN llY, 4.80 ESA 870.111 Disc. K SIO llY> 3.80 ESA 947.121 Disc. NN I S20 11 y, 2.75 ETA 555.115 S.S./Cal. G SIS llY. 3.85 ESA 963.121 Use NN I S28 963.124 111-l ETA 9362 Disc. Use I SlO 202101KIT 111-l 3.85 ESA 963.124 S.S./D.D. NN I S28 12 4.80 Junghans uu II y, 3.55 ESA 963.123 Use NN I S28 667.00 963.124 12 4.80 Junghans uu llY, 4.20 ESA 554.121 NN 667.01
18 Horologi.cal Times/February 1989 VIBROGRAF FEATURED PRODUCT OF THE MONTH ...
A B c D E F G H Our Ligne Thick- Model Features Dial Hands AWi No. Size ness Number or inter- Feet Cell changes Pos. No. NEW! RM-90 Automatic 12 4.80 Junghans uu 667.40 Heavy-Duty Watch Cleaner 12 4.80 Junghans uu 667.41
12 5.70 Junghans VY 667.20
12 5.70 Junghans VY 667.21
12 5.70 Junghans VY 667.22
12 5.90 Junghans WW 667.30 RM-90 12~ 3.70 ESA 940.101 xx Only 13 3.70 ESA 940.111 Disc. yy I S24 $2,395.00 13 6.10 ESA 9180 yy Cleans and drys up to 6 quartz or mechanical watch 13 6.10 ESA9181 Disc. yy movements at one time, assembled or in a mesh basket. 13 7.10 ESA 9182 Disc. yy Variable cleaning by multi-frequency infrasonics. Two year guarantee. Contact your local distributor, or... 13 7.10 ESA 9183 Disc. yy 13 3.80 ESA 944.131 YY Call (516) 437-8700 or write: THREE PAYMENT PLAN WITH 13 3.80 ESA 947.131 yy VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. APPROVED CREDIT 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 Servicing the Watchmaker with quality products for over 50 years.
MEN'S WRISTWATCHES
Illinois Picadilly Flight 11 G.F. $200.00 I NEED THESE 3 WATCHES TO FILL ORDERS. World Time G.F. $300.00 Patek-Vacheron 14K $1000.00 Agassiz etc. urgently needed. Rolex Stainless 1950 Chronograph ...... 1500.00 up Rolex Bubblebacks, SS ...... 400.00 up Any Split Second Chronograph SS ...... 400.00 up 14K or 18K CALL 14K ...1000.00 up Gruen Chronograph, G.F. or SS ...... 200.00 Chronograph With Day-Date Windows, SS .... 200.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Hour Glass Shaped ..... 5000.00 up 14K . . . 600.00 up Roi ex Oyster Perpetual Moonphase 18K ....10.000.00 Chronograph With Moonphase, SS ...... 300.00 up Stainless ...... 3000.00 14K ... 800.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Moonphase ...... 12,000.00 up Rolex 18K 1950 Chronograph ...... 5000.00 up Lecoultre Moonphase Oay Date G.F ...... 400.00 Patek Philippe 18K Chronograph ...... 9000.00 up 14K ...... 1000.00 Patek Philippe SS Chronograph ...... 3000.00 up Rectangular G.F ...... 1000.00 Vacheron & Constantin & Lecoultre Diamond Early 1 Button Chronograph Porcelain Dial Mystery Dial Watch...... 800.00 Any Men's Enamelled Bezel or Case Movado Purse Watch (Sliding Lids) With Calendar Any Old Diamond Dial Watches Moonphase ...... 400.00 up CHAR LES CLEVES 319 FAIRFIELD AVENUE 1;606-491-0354 Member: AWi, NAWCC BELLEVUE, KY 41073
February 1989/Horological Times 19 CLOCKS htAide s Out! A.G. Simon
Disasselllbly and Exalllination Of the Clock Movelllent Adapted from the AWi corresponder..ce course in clock repair.
n our previous series of articles, "Understanding ponents. Most repairers like to give the clock movement a the Pendulum Clock," we discussed the components preliminary cleaning so that possible defects can be more I which make up a standard time only pendulum easily recognized as the clock movement is disassembled. clock. We will now turn our attention to the details of ser We will discuss the various methods commonly used to clean vicing such clocks. The techniques discussed here will, of a mechanical clock at another time. For now it is sufficient course, carry over to those used in servicing striking and chime to note that the preliminary cleaning can be accomplished and striking clocks. Only the degree of complexity will be dif while the movement is fully assembled. Either ultrasonic ferent. or the traditional soak and brush method will accomplish In almost every case it is desirable to disassemble the the preliminary cleaning job satisfactorily. clock movement for complete inspection of the clock's com- Before an attempt is made to disassemble the clock,
Figure 1
.J'---1----1--
J' -I.---'--~
20 Horological Times/February 1989 the power must be released, or let down, from the main spring. In two or three train clocks, the power of each train spring must be released before disassembly is attempted. AMERICAN If the mainspring is not encased within a mainspring barrel, such as is shown in Figure l, the spring must be secured in some manner. If the spring is let down without some form JEWELS! of restraint, it will become difficult to handle and virtually impossible to reassemble into the clock movement. Tempered steel rings in the shape of a "C" are most @ @ @ frequently used to restrain the spring before it is let down (see @ @ Figure 2). Most replacement springs come from the supplier @ @ secured with this "C" clamp device, so most clock shops usually have accumulated quite a number of assorted sizes. AMERICAN BALANCE JEWELS If none is available, the spring can be secured with several Balance jewels for American made pocket turns of picture wire or tied down with several turns of stout watches. Complete with jewels set in brass string or fishing line. fitting in sizes to fit almost any American If the verge can be removed easily, as it can be in the watch made before 1950. $2.40 each or your clock shown in Figure l, many repairers will choose to remove choice of any 12 for $21.60. Check these the verge, then hold their thumb as a brake against the re popular sizes! volving escape wheel. If removal of the verge is more diffi cult, the power can be let down by placing a key on the ELGIN winding arbor, then while applying a little pressure on the key, 18/S Hole 13 Upper and Lower release the click (e) and allow the ratchet (a) to turn back 16/S Hole 12 Upper and Lower several teeth. When the click is observed to be safely in the 12/S Hole 11 Upper and Lower ratchet, get a new grasp on the key and repeat this process WALTHAM until the spring is completely let down. Most professional 18/S Waltham Upper and Lower Hole 13 clock repairers use a special key known as a "letdown key" 16/S Waltham Upper and Lower Hole 12 for this operation. A letdown key has a cylindrical handle 12/S Waltham Upper and Lower Hole 11 which can be grasped firmly in the hand, thus allowing more HAMILTON backward turns of the ratchet than a conventional key will 18/S Hamilton Upper and Lower Hole 13 allow. The letdown key also prevents the key from "getting 16/S Hamilton Upper and Lower Hole 12 away" under power which can cause painful damage to the 12/S Hamilton Upper and Lower Hole 11 thumb and index fingers and fingernails. When the power of the mainspring has been released, ILLINOIS the pendulum rod should be removed from the slot in the 18/S Illinois Upper and Lower Hole 13 suspension post (j) where it is held in position by a tapered 16/S Illinois Upper and Lower Hole 12 pin running through the holes in the post and the hole in the 12/S Illinois Upper and Lower Hole 11 suspension spring. Sometimes the suspension spring is held in SOUTH BEND the slot by a "dimple" which has been punched at the top 16/S Upper and Lower Hole 12 of the suspension spring, or by a wire that has been bent over HAMPDEN at the ends. In some clocks a screw will hold the suspension 18/S Upper and Lower Hole 13 spring in place while others have a groove in the upper side 16/S Upper and Lower Hole 12 of the suspension post; a rivet installed on the suspension spring rides in the groove. Regardless of what method is used, NEW YORK STANDARD care should be taken not to allow the suspension spring to 16- 18/S Upper and Lower, Hole 13 bind in the suspension post slot. It should be free to move 6/S Upper and Lower Hole 11 forward and back. Sometimes the suspension post is mounted HOWARD on a small bridge and held in place with screws; in this arrange 12/S Upper and Lower Hole 11 ment the verge is sometimes held in position by this same The above listing is only a sampling of the bridge. Once the suspension assembly is removed, the screws sizes available. Please order other hole sizes not listed at the same low price. or nuts holding the plates to the pillar posts are removed and the plate is lifted off. In the clock shown in Figure 1, the pinion (w) is tight on the center arbor ( e), thus the center arbor and the center wheel will be lifted off with the plate. A similar arrangement will be found in most clocks. Unless there is obvious wear to the center arbor pivot or its bearing (hole) the clock can be serviced without removing these two components. When it does become necessary to remove them, the plate should be rested on a slotted bar of iron or steel, or it can be held in a bench vise. The arbor is driven out of the pinion with a hollow punch placed over the ends of the 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N.C. 27420, U.S.A. arbor and resting on the shoulder of the square. If the clock Phone: (919) 275-0462 FAX NUMBER 1-800-537-4513 has no square on its arbor, a flat-faced brass punch can be placed on the end of the arbor and several blows of a brass
February 1989/Horologi,cal Times 21 hammer will drive it free. A steel punch should never be used because it will spread the arbor and the minute hand will Figure2 not fit. With the front plate removed, the wheels and other parts can be removed and individually examined for defects. Other than a broken mainspring, the most common fault to be found in the mechanical clock movement is lack of oil or dirty and gummed oil. After cleaning and re-oiling and taking care of the other repairs that might be indicated, the clock will perform once again in a satisfactory manner. The next most common fault is the wearing of pivots and pivot holes. Such wear introduces more friction than the train was designed to withstand, or it changes the depthing of the wheels and pinions to the extent that their action together is im paired. The next common fault, in the order of frequency, is in the escapement; it may be either too deep or too shallow. Escapement problems usually are caused by excessive wear of pivots or bearings, or both. Wear on the pallet faces and bent or damaged escape wheel teeth also are a common cause of escapement problems. If the pits on the pallet faces are not too deep, the lever can be repaired by grinding and polishing the locking faces smooth.
If the pallet faces' grooves are quite deep, considerable grind Steel Restraining ing must be done; this often results in the need to make a "C" Clamp number of adjustments to the span and angles of the pallet faces. To avoid having to make these adjustments some "old timers" would grind the faces down to the thickness of a piece of mainspring, then they would solder a piece of main spring to the face of the pallets, thus giving them a smooth surface to present to the escape wheel teeth. J.E. Coleman, one of America's finest contemporary repairmen, recom mended using a piece of razor blade instead of mainspring the force of a fully wound mainspring is considerable in one steel for this process. Sometimes it may be just as quick to direction and, upon breaking, this power is suddenly released replace the entire pallet. which causes the wheel to jerk backwards with considerable Instead of repairing or replacing pallets, sometimes energy. the escape wheel can be shifted on its arbor slightly so that its Other faults might be worn points on the click. teeth contact the pallets to one side or the other of the worn The click can often be restored to its original shape with a file place, provided the pallets are wide enough to permit this. or grinding instrument. If the points are too badly worn, Another common fault found in mechanical clocks is a new click should be installed. A loose stud (rivet) in a click a bent suspension spring, or one which is not attached firmly assembly is an occasional fault. The solution is to firmly to the pendulum rod. This condition causes wobbling of the rivet the stud to the spoke of the wheel, making sure that it pendulum bob. In this case a new suspension spring should be does not bind. In an eight-day clock this stud sometimes runs fitted or the entire suspension spring and pendulum rod very close to an intermediate wheel, and should that wheel assembly be replaced. Sometimes a bent suspension spring not be running true, it may touch the stud and stop the move can be straightened by drawing it through the jaws of smooth ment. Sometimes the click spring may be too weak or may jawed pliers. break. This condition calls for replacement of the click spring. Sometimes a rough mainspring will not uncoil with Occasionally a fault will be found with the spring sufficient power to run the movement for the proper length that applies tension on the center arbor. This tension should of time between windings. Sometimes a spring that is dry be checked while you are examining the clock movement. Too or caked with gummy oil will act in the same manner as a little tension could result in the clock not always carrying rough spring. James Tigner, in his fine Horological Times series the hands as it runs, thus giving the appearance of losing time. on clock repair, suggested that mainsprings be handled in the Too much tension will cause difficulty in setting the hands. following manner: A minute wheel that is too tight on its stud and an hour wheel too tight on its center arbor may cause the clock Hook the mainspring over a spike that is driven to lose power and stop. Care should be exercised in putting into some substantial object, then stretch it out to on an hour wheel to make sure that the socket of the hour its last 3 or 4 inner coils, or until further uncoiling hand does not press the hour wheel pipe tightly against its meets with decided resistance. Wipe the spring arbor. The freedom of the hour wheel should always be first with a clean, dry rag, then with a pad of 4/0 checked after the hour hand has been installed. The freedom steel wool, then another clean rag, and finally of the minute wheel on its stud should also be checked while with a piece of chamois skin or clean linen rag the clock is being examined. soaked in whatever you choose to use for lubri This covers most of the faults to be found ordinarily; cation. but, of course, there are others such as bent wheels, bent If a mainspring breaks, the force may bend one or wheel teeth, bent pivots, worn wheel and pinion teeth, etc. more teeth of the main wheel, the pins of a lantern pinion Other faults frequently result from carelessness or lack of that might be geared with it, and occasionally the teeth of knowledge of the proper methods of repair by repairers. wheels further along in the train. The reason for this is that CUI:Il3
22 Horological Times/February 1989 We Salute These New ltlen1bersl
AMSDEN, Philip G.-Rockaway, NJ GEIGER, James F.-Richland, WA NAULT, Norman-Grand Rapids, MN AQUINO, Franklin-Denver, CO GILBERT, Nevin R.-Lancaster, PA NORRIS, BrianJ.-Hummelstown, PA Sponsor: Tim Caldwell-Phoenix, AZ GLOMMEN , Barbara-Coon Rapids, MN Sponsor: Mark A. Yusko-Danbury, NH BALLEW, George Taylor-Lancaster, PA GDEWEY, John-Schenectady, NY NTALIS, Markos-Ferndale, Ml BANHOLZER , Alfred-Renton, WA HALL, Gordon D.-San Diego, CA OAKS, Nathan H.-Oaks Corners, NY BETHANY, F.M.-Visalia, CA HEAD, Marc H.- Penn Yan, NY O'HAI R, John H.-Co. Tipperary, Ireland BENZ, Adolf L.-Bern, Switzerland KLYCE, David J.-S. Pasadena, CA Sponsor: Ivan Godwin-Running Springs.CA Sponsor: Henry Fried-Fresh Meadows. NY LANG, Rudy-Hawthorne, NY PAR KER , Donald-Springfield, 0 H Bl NMAN, Sharon-Mahtomedi, MN LAWTON, Lewis S.-Arlington, VA PIERCE, Robert H.-Edwardsville, IL BORTH, Carol-Hawthorne, CA LUONG, Hong-Salinas, CA Sponsor: J.D. Slaton-Alton, IL BUENO, Raul-El Paso, TX Sponsor: Tim Caldwell-Phoenix, AZ SMACK, Chuck- St. Paul, MN Sponsor: Tim Caldwell-Phoenix, AZ MARDIROSIAN, George-Portland, OR WAGGENER, Kurt-Livonia, Ml BUI, Chau Uuang--Philadelphia, PA Sponsor: Tim Caldwell-Phoenix, AZ WALKER, Michael L.-Taos, NM CHRISTIANSEN, W.E.,Jr.-Newport, RI MARKWOOD, Scott-Lowell, MA WILLS, James W.-Woodsfield , 0 H DUNCAN, Dean D.-Farmer's Branch, TX MINGRONE, Palma-West Haven, CT WUB KER, John J.-Beardstown, IL FA BES, Steve-Walnut Creek, CA MOORE, Marvin-Redding, CA ZIELIKE, Richard-Edina, MN FARNLACHER, Karl-Dayton, OH Sponsor: Carl Nissan-Redding, CA Sponsor: James Broughton-Columbus, OH MORAN, James-Edina, MN
ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH TO REMEMBER WHEN .•• BACK ORDERS FOR WATCH PARTS WERE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN?
It's really surprising to hear that people have problems getting watch parts. It is true that many distributors have cut back on their stock of watch material, while emphasizing the more lucrative jewelry and diamond lines. Twin City Supply has remained in the watch parts field, expanding to accomodate the new quartz technology. Through the years, we have also purchased the stock of other material houses, and continue to inventory the older watch parts as well as the so called "hard to find" Japanese watch material. The next time you're having problems, give us a try. Some of our new customers are surprised to find that our orders are shipped nearly 100% complete. We are not surprised. We stock what we sell.
TWIN CITY SUPPLY u~ PHONE AREA CODE 612/545-2725 TOLL FREE MERCHANDISE ORDERING NATIONWIDE 800/328-6009 MINNESOTA 800/862-8139 l~I 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis MN 55416 TWINCO
February 1989/Horological Times 23 ROCK QUARRY et-UV
Fred S. Burckhardt
FOND MEMORIES OF CHRISTMAS
nother holiday season gone and more memories to and he's trying to find a doctor." Another said, "He must add to the old memory book. After so many years, belong to the same church I do. That's the signal we give to Ayou'd think nothing new would happen ... but it the preacher when he talks too long." always does. Finally, I figured out what he was trying to convey. One woman came in with an old pocket watch she I went over to the battery file, picked out one of the batter said had been in the lock box for 30 years and now she wanted ies and showed it to him. He smiled and shook his head 'yes'. it repaired to give to her son for Christmas. "It hasn't been The other customers started to applaud. I had a warm feeling used, so it probably just needs a little oil squirted in it," she inside, knowing I had brought our two countries closer to suggested. When I screwed off the back, the smell almost gether. melted the plastic frames on my glasses. Those of you who As he was leaving, a joker came in wearing a clown have been around for awhile know what I am talking about. costume and carrying a bunch of balloons. She started singing Rancid fish oil has the same odor as a boy's gym locker room Happy Birthday and when she got to the part "Happy birth with some old anchovies mixed in. When I told her there was day dear Jim," I knew it wasn't for me. I told her she made no way I could do a complete overhaul and have it ready be a mistake and that Jim worked next door. All she said was fore Christmas (this was three days before), she became rather "D---!" and started to leave. I ran down and grabbed the upset. She said how disappointed both she and her son would watch band display just in case. be if he didn't find it under the tree. I told her she should have As I was finishing up with the next customer, the brought it in sooner so I could have had it done on time. In UPS man came in with a package from one of the watch an unkind voice she said, "Well, I hope you have a Merry companies. It was a back order from the previous April. I Christmas because you've ruined mine!" As she walked out she told him to take it back and say that it was refused. He must pushed over the watch band display. have been new on the job because he started to get a panic I had to special order three bracelets for another stricken look on his face. I told him to write 'refused' on the customer. When she came to pick them up she told me she was package and take it back. He said, "Don't you want to sign going to the West Coast for the holidays and wouldn't be for it?" back till February. If they didn't like the bracelets she would I said, "No, I don't want the package." Remember bring them back. I tried to explain as nicely as possible that ing the words of our new president, I said, "Read my lips!" they weren't an item I usually carry in stock and wished she He got the message. would have told me beforehand. She took them anyway but The next guy looked like something out of one of you could tell her yuletide spirit was at low ebb. As she those Japanese monster movies. Now I know what they mean walked out, she pushed over the same watch band display. by 'cowpuncher' -he looked like he could really punch cows. I called the next number and a fellow came up and We're talking big and mean here. This was one person you said something in a foreign language while pointing at his wanted to be nice to or take a chance on having your right leg watch. I figured he either said his watch wasn't working or · shoved up your left nostril. His vocabulary consisted of only what time does the next plane leave for Honduras. I don't one-syllable words which I obeyed as quickly as possible. know why I do it, but whenever I get a customer I can't under He wanted a watch band ... or I should say two, as it took stand too well or not at all, I automatically talk slower and both to go around his wrist. I was relieved when I asked how louder as though they were hard-of-hearing. I said, "Me no it fit and his reply was, "Good band. Fit good." As he stooped understando." I think I kind of surprised him at my ability to get through the doorway, I yelled, "Merry Christmas!" to speak another language but I could tell he understood me As the day went on, things got steadily worse. If as well as I did him. Once again he pointed to his watch and there is one thing I can't stand it's a person coming in who has repeated what he said before. Another customer, standing never been in before and acts like an old customer and calls close by, said, "Maybe there's something wrong with his arm you by your first name. You can always be assured they're
24 Horologi,cal Times/February 1989 after something for nothing. This ying-yang comes in and says, "Hey, Fred buddy, how you doing?" I said, "Okay. How are you?" WANTED He answered, "Great, old pal. Say listen buddy, can you size my wife's watch band? I just bought it for her but the band's too long." I said, "Sure, pal. Of course, you know I have to \ .1 :• ...: charge you because it wasn't purchased here." -~ He said, "How much?" When I told him his attitude changed completely. "Couldn't you do it for less?" he asked . I smiled and said, "No." As much as I hate to say it, I don't think I'm his 'ole buddy' anymore. HIGHEST PRICES PAID The last customer of the day was a woman with her three kids. They had been shopping all day and the kids were WE BUY-SELL-REPAIR tired and restless. It was one long fight and running around the ANTIQUE WATCHES- ROLEX- CARTIER - PIAGET place that got on my nerves. The mother would pay no at AUDEMARS- PATEK PHILIPPE - VACHERON tention to them. Finally I said, "Either you sit down and be COMPLICATED WATCHES - CHRONOGRAPHS quiet or go out to the car!" You might say the mother wasn't too happy with me talking like that to her children. Free Estimates Alfredo Castro Complete NAWCC #84972 She said, "Well, maybe we'd better go somewhere Restorations AWi #15673 else to do our shopping!" I said, "Sounds like a good idea to me." I won't tell you what she did while she was leaving. TU/trl WATCH CO. I'm just going to have to find somewhere else to put that 36 N.E. 1st STREET, SUITE 360 watch band display! Seybold Diamond Exchange - (305) 358-8175 Miami, Florida 33132 TOLL FREE 1 (800) 843-8974
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February 1989/Horological Times 25 [}{]@@@§ ~©@@§ [b@@@§
John A. Nagle
X-tra, X-tra, Read All About It!
dvertising, so important, but oh so ignored! Mention the position to afford your services. Second, in today's throw the word campaign and out come the bayonets. away, fast-paced world, craftsmen are unusual types of indi ADon't ever be misled into thinking that advertising viduals-clockmakers, basket weavers, potters, etc. People is a simple thing. I am not qualified to write much on the are really fascinated by craftsmen. And right they should be! subject, and so I won't. I'll write a little! The libraries have We are a unique, interesting group! This makes us newsworthy. many excellent books to guide you, but as I studied them I Sometimes the media will come to you and offer to write a did notice some shortcomings. The published guides were story about you. This is a great ego builder. The best way to all based on the old adage that "it takes money to make assure yourself of a chance at a story is to be aggressive. money." If you have a small shop, such as mine, and are Have you written a story for the Horological Times or dealing mainly in service, you, my friend, have a problem. The Bulletin? Have an unusual clock or tool in your shop? Win Without sales it isn't a wise thing to go on big budget ad an award? Attend a seminar? If not, just write the newspaper campaigns. If you do, there is a good chance that you will end and tell them a little bit about yourself that's interesting. Write up as an employee of the media. You will be paying them hard in a confident, positive manner and let them know that you earned cash that belongs in your pocket. What you want is an are an interesting individual. Interesting news sells papers and, ad program that is both effective and low in cost to you. This in turn, creates an interest in advertisers to buy ad space. Ad article is going to show you how to obtain free, effective vertising is where it's at in the paper game. advertising. Wait a few weeks after writing to your chosen media. I had hoped to show articles about me that ran in They don't always respond quickly because they are like us, our local newspapers, but was unable to obtain permission understaffed and overworked! Say, after a month or so, you to use them. Recently I had a super article in the business still haven't gotten a response. It doesn't mean that they aren't section of the Sunday edition of our local paper. A few years interested in you as a story. Follow up with a phone call. ago I had a large article in the Sunday human interest section. This may sound bold, but it is really no big deal to them nor Both articles created a huge interest in my business and also should it be to you. Ask to talk to the business editor or to brought in lots and lots of work. Most important of all, it someone that is interested in a really good human interest was free. story. They will usually be patient and listen to you. If you I had previously advertised in the paper and had sound interesting you will get in the paper. Figures 1 and 2 satisfactory results, but nothing like the response to the give you some examples of what to write. It worked for me! stories. How come? I think it was a combination of a few Once they commit to do a story on you, it's off to things. First, it is very important to you to have your adver the races. Now you want to prepare for the interview. Not tising appear in the business or human interest sections of that they aren't always such, but you and your shop must be your paper. Successful people always read these sections. in a real professional condition. It is helpful to have clocks Today, when clocks are more of a luxury than a necessity, in various stages of repair, unusual tools, etc. prominently people will have to be in a certain income bracket to be in displayed. Remember, you want to look interesting to them. 26 Horological Times/February 1989 Figure 1 Figure 2
3Joi)n NaglP 3Jol)n NaglP 10 J;:rnuary 1988 10 Jano The first thing that you see when you walk into my shop is from my article. Question: "How do you learn clockmaking?" a display case filled with antique tools and books. It always My answer was: "You can attend school or serve an appren evokes a comment. ticeship. I served an apprenticeship. As there are no longer Another thing that you should do is to try and many opportunities to go this route, I would suggest that imagine questions that they might ask you. Then answer them anyone interested should check out the Bowman Technical simply, but professionally. If you are too technical you let Institute. I went there to visit and liked what I saw." In yourself open to be boring, pompous, and probably mis the article it read, "Nagle received some of his training at understood. I might as well tell you now that you stand a Bowman's and then served an apprenticeship." When I stopped very good chance of being misquoted. Here is an example (Please turn to page 29) WATCHMAKERS-JEWELERS How long would it take you to diagnose the following MORE OF EVERYTHING watches using your present test equipment? •U11.trt YOU NEED! • ,. ' With lnnovative's• • Quartz •Watch Tester,• model• WT-100 you could diagnose them all - in seconds - without removing any watch components. CALL TOLL FREE TODAY! I WATCH MATERIAL - FINDINGS TOOLS - SUPPLIES I JEWELMONT®~ ~ Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100 Typical product features: CORPORATION W_I • Tests watches with or without batteries • Tests batteries in or out of watches $15.00 Minimum WATS Line Order • Easy to use - no adjustments to make • Tests components without removal (AREA CODE 612) 546-3800 • One year warranty MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 • Made in the USA NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 • Inexpensive - only $49.95 (plus $2.00 postage & handling) 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 55427 INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS 64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379 February 1989/Horological Times 27 MORE ON AWl'S , ~-- --- HELSINl(J PETRODVORETS ~LENINGRAD UPCOMING ~£,P USH KIN I PAVt..OVSK I I I · ------l~MOSCOW TOUR TO RUSSIA I I •I I ----- AIR r r --- MOTORCOACH --OVERNIGHT STOP IJ 'I I I ----<>-- EN ROUTE lans for the 1989 Horological Tour of Russia and ROSTOV.ON-DON ! I their watch and clock factories are progressing ac SIMFEROPOLQ_ _,.y• .. ~oe _.... I P cording to plan with good interest from members and (BLACK SEA) / ~>-.., I ..... 01.q I friends. Confirmation has been received from the Russian -....._ I ' -... (CAUCAs"us MTS) INTOURIST agency of our visits to the Slava watch and clock ...... I factory in Moscow and the Petrovodritz factory in Leningrad. TBLIS~" . (CASPIAN SEA) ECHMIAOZINoV' El'IEVAN Following these visits and reception will be a round table dis (llRMENIA) cussion with the officials and experts. This tour of Russia includes all meals, full or buf fet breakfasts, all dinners and lunches, as well as meals while in flight. These include all taxes and tips. Coffee or tea and des serts are always included. The meals will be from deluxe menus with two especial visits to very highly rated restaurants. Arrival in Moscow is topped by a special cocktail reception/ welcome dinner. Aside from the horological visits in Moscow's Krem lin, the State Armory, museums, the world's largest bell and cannon, the colorful domed St. Basil's Cathedral, and the Bolshoi Theater, many, many other sights are included as well. Flying south to Armenia in the shadows of Mount Ararat (reputed site of Noah's Ark), we then visit Tblisi, a visit to the Black Sea near the Turkish border, a visit to Yalta, Simferpol, and Rostov-On-Don. Flying northward to Leningrad, Russia's "Window to the West," we stay for four days of unforgettable sights, visits to Issak's Cathedral, the Peter and Paul Cathedral, island fortresses, the Hermitage Collections, as well as a final visit to the watch factory and to meet their officials personally a first for any group in my knowledge. Later, an evening at Moscow's Red Square and St. Basil's the Ballet or their fantastic circus is also planned. Visits to Pushkin's home, the czar's village , the summer residence of Catherine the Great, and the Palace of Pavlovski in a lovely park are among the many highlights and other sights to be TOUR DATES experienced. MAY 13-JUNE3, 1989 While in Leningrad we motor partly along the Gulf of Finland to Petrovorets (peterhof), the Great Palace with its awesome waterfalls and fountains. All this too is topped off with a gala farewell dinner in a well-known Leningrad restau Henry B. Fried rant. In the morning, homeward bound via Helsinki. He has led many groups through Russia and his experience Our final brochure and details should be ready in and knowledge will surely make this tour one to remember a couple of weeks which will list all the details, travel hints, with fond experiences. As in the past, AWi's Henry B. Fried, schedule, and illustrations, application forms, etc. tour organizer, will be along and ably assisted with the every OLSON's Travelworld is a highly reputable organiza day details by Mr. Gibson. The tour is limited to the first 28 tion with many years of "Integrity in Tourism." We have been signers as a general policy of OLSON Travelworld, Ltd. fortunate as well in having OLSON secure the services of Jim Hope that you can come along for a memorable ex- Gibson, who has been our "godfather-guide" on so many past perience. Henry B. Fried AWi Horological Tours, and he will assist us with this one. tiLil3 28 Horological Times/February 1989 HODGE PODGE LODGE the same procedure that you used to get noticed by the (Continued from page 27) newspapers. You will probably reach more people by appearing on the radio. An important fact is that you are talking directly to in at Bowman's to visit I was there about ten minutes. As good the people. This gets your true thought out. Most shows use as they are, I don't think they teach that fast! one of two formats: (I) straight interview, host will talk with There are always innocent mistakes that you will you for your allotted time, or (2) question and answer, host find somewhat embarrassing, but don't worry. The public chats with you and then the listeners call in with questions, sees: (1) you are a craftsman, (2) it was a good story, and stories, etc. (3) they are going to give you a shot at getting their business. Appearing on the radio is a fun experience. You don't If you are a jack-of-all-trades type, it is best to stick have to be a Dale Carnegie graduate to do it, but you should to the one thing that you are really good at. As skilled as feel secure and confident to try this. Remember, you are you may be, you won't be as interesting a subject to the selling yourself on the air. If you are unable to talk freely and readers. It is also more difficult to write about you. These to answer on-the-spot questions, give careful consideration stories like to focus on one topic. before getting involved. If you do not have good communica When the reporter arrives at your shop be warm and tion skills don't give up. You might want to try some type of friendly; they are nervous, too. They have a tough job ahead. public speaking course like the Dale Carnegie sessions or The reporter not only has to try and understand you and get in touch with your local Toastmasters club. It won't be what you do, but also write a good story to boot. You have too long before you can confidently address a group. Then the easy part! you can go tear them up on the radio! They will gradually take charge, ask you questions, Why not? You are a professional. You are extremely shoot some pictures, and before you know it the interview interesting. You want that free advertising! is over. All you have to do is wait for the paperboy. It's always Remember that old joke about the mob trying to nice to send them a thank you. lynch a reporter but couldn't find a rope? His comment was Pretty easy, huh? How about another opportunity? "no noose is good noose." Lucky for him that we weren't Another medium that is available in many areas is radio. there. We know what we want and how to get it. We are Most communities have talk shows on their local station definitely news. See you on the radio! broadcasts. They are always in need of guests. You can follow ... We Offer Success By Degrees! QUARTZ, MECHANICAL Watch Repair for the Trade. 8 DIFFERENT SAMPLES ONLY $10.00 PPD. BALANCE STAFFS Custom Made & Fitted. OR PHOTO WITH OFFER SHEET SENT M.J., 631 Prospect Ave., P.O. Box 15026 FREE ON REQUEST. Cleveland, OH 44115 (216) 861-1472 MR. BUTLER REMEMBER . . . A customer comes to you 6830 CASITAS PASS ROAD with his needs and wants. Join the A WI Re CARPINTERIA, CA 93013 ferral Service! See page 16 for details. (805) 684-3849, eves. best February 1989/Horological Times 29 Technically © 1989 WATCHES' Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author) 1989 Antique Watch Restoration @ Part XXXVlll THE CHARACTERISTICS OF FAUL TY DEPTHS IN GEAR TRAINS t is quite often found when restoring antique watches shallow depthing usually occurs when the pivot holes are that the gear trains are faulty in one way or another. worn to one side or someone has rebushed or closed the pivot IThese faults can cause one of three conditions: (1) a holes off-center. The correction is to re-establish the centers butting action, (2) a catching action, or (3) a dropping action. Any one of the three conditions will prevent the train from Figure 1. Shows a depth running smoothly and prevent it from delivering the power of that is too shallow. the mainspring uniformly to the escapement and balance wheel. Some faults that can cause the above are: A. Teeth unevenly spaced B. Teeth too wide or narrow C. Teeth not shaped correctly D. Leaves too thick or too thin E. Leaves not shaped correctly F. Depth too shallow G. Depth too deep. A good test of a train is to remove the pallet from the watch and then wind the mainspring a turn or two and listen to the train as it runs down. If the train makes a noise as it runs down, then there is a chance that one or more depths are fai..lty. Too much drop in a depth causes the train to be noisy. If a train is noisy, one must determine exactly where the trouble lies and what the trouble is before doing anything to the train. This is to avoid doing the wrong thing and making the situation worse. Each depthing should be checked by holding a piece of pegwood against a pivot of a mating gear while the driving wheel is turned to feel the action of the wheel teeth on the pinion leaves. If there is a drop or butting action, it can usually be felt. It takes lots of practice in using A c 8 this method to be good at determining what the fault is and where the fault is. Another method that can be used is to take a depthing tool and set the jaws of the tool so the runners are I the same distance apart as the pivot holes of two mating gears that are suspected of giving trouble. Then place the two gears in the tool so they can be examined with a strong eyeloupe -r to determine any faults in their depthing. The following are some examples of faulty depthings and their corrections. DEPTHING TOO SHALLOW Figure 1 shows a depth which is too shallow. This 30 Horological Times/February 1989 Figure 2 . Shows a depth Figure 3 . Shows a depth that is too deep. that is much too deep. .... with the use of a depthing tool. Note that the pitch circle tooth A and pinion leaf "a". Too much drop increases the of the wheel and that of the pinion are separated at the wear in gearing although a small amount of drop is bearable center line. This shallow depthing causes a butting action and better than having a butting action. Drop will not stop if extremely shallow and a catching action if slightly too the train as a butting action can. The rubbing action between shallow. This is called engaging friction and it occurs when the the tip of tooth A and pinion leaf C is detrimental to a smooth drive starts before the line of centers. These actions are greater running train. This condition causes loss of power as well as with pinions which have a semicircular rounding on the unnecessary wear. addenda as compared to pinions that have pointed addenda. To correct this error, one would re-establish the pivot In the illustration, tooth A is butting on the end of pinion holes in their correct location with the use of a depthing tool. leaf "a" as tooth B drives leaf "b" in the d irection of the arrow. This butting is magnified if the depthing is quite DEPTHING MUCH TOO DEEP shallow and the pinion leaves have a semicircular rounding. Figure 3 shows a depthing which is much too deep The action of this butting is greatest on pinions with fewer with a high wheel addendum. Note that the wheel pitch circle leaves, such as 6 and 7 leaves, and decreases with pinions line falls within the pinion pitch circle at the center line which which have 8, 10, 12 or more leaves. When the drive starts indicates that the two gears are pitched too closely together. on the line of centers, as with pinions of 12 or more leaves, In this example, the butting will cause pinion leaf "a" to butt the butting action is almost nil. The butting is greatest on against the tip of wheel tooth A, which locks up the depth 6-leaf pinions with a semicircular rounding. If the pinion entirely. leaves were pointed, as shown at C, Figure 1, the butting or To correct this depth, it is necessary to re-establish catching would be less pronounced. In other words, there is the correct pivot hole positions in the watch plate and bridge. more chance for butting or catching when the pinion leaves The longer addendum may work satisfactorily after this. If have a semicircular rounding. the addendum is still too high, it can be reduced with the proper rounding-up cutter in the rounding-up tool. DEPTHING TOO DEEP Figu re 2 shows a depth which is too deep. Note that PINION TOO LARGE wheel pitch circle falls inside the pinion pitch circle which Figure 4 shows a depth which has a pinion that is indicates that the two gears are pitched too close together. too large. The correct pitch diameters are shown with a In this case, we would have excess drop in the action of the broken line, and the pitch circle for the large pinion is shown wheel teeth on the pinion leaves. With this condition, the pitch in dotted line. Note that the actual pitch circle of the large of the wheel teeth becomes greater than the pitch of the pinion falls outside the correct pitch circle which indicates pinion leaves where the wheel teeth are acting on the leaves. that the pinion is too large. This means that the pitch of When tooth B is driving pinion leaf "b", tooth A is entering the pinion is too large for the pitch of the wheel. the pinion and the tip of tooth A will rub on pinion leaf This condition causes a butting action between wheel "c" (the oncoming leaf). Then as the drive continues, tooth tooth A and the end of pinion leaf "a" as wheel tooth B drives B will slide off of leaf "b" causing tooth A to drop onto leaf pinion leaf "b". "a". View d, Figure 2 shows some of the drop space between To correct this condition, the large pinion should be February 1989/Horological Times 31 replaced with one of the correct diameter and pitch. that the pitch of the pinion is too small for the pitch of the wheel. This condition causes drop in the depthing. As tooth PINION TOO SMALL B drives pinion leaf "b" in the direction of the arrow, tooth A Figure 5 shows a depth in which the pinion is too enters the pinion, and as tooth B slides off of leaf "b" at the small. Note that the actual pitch circle of the small pinion end of the drive, tooth A will drop onto leaf "a". The space (dotted line) lies within the correct pitch circle which in between wheel tooth A and pinion leaf "a" indicates the dicates that the pinion is too small for the wheel. This means drop which is present in the depth. This condition is very similar to the condition shown in Figure 2 where the depthing is too deep. Figure 4 . Shows a depth with a pinion that is too The only correction for this condition is to replace large. the small pinion with one of the correct diameter and pitch. WHEEL TOO LARGE IN DIAMETER Figure 6 shows a faulty depth in which the wheel is too large for the pinion. Note that the actual wheel pitch circle (dotted line) falls within the pinion pitch circle which indicates that the wheel is too large for the pinion. This con dition creates drop in the depth and is similar to the con dition shown in Figures 2 and 5. The action is as follows: As wheel tooth B slides off of leaf "b", tooth A drops onto pinion leaf "a". The space between tooth A and pinion leaf "a" indicates the drop space. The proper correction for this condition is to re duce the diameter of the wheel with the proper cutter in the rounding-up tool. The diameter can be reduced gradually until the drop is eliminated and the gears work together with the proper action. Note: Caution should be used when re ducing the diameter of a wheel because if the wheel is reduced too much, a butting action will be created. TALL WHEEL ADDENDA (wheel too large) Figure 7 shows a faulty depth in which the wheel addenda is too tall, although the pitch circle of the wheel is correct for the pitch circle of the pinion. The two gears are the correct distance apart but the addenda of the wheel is so tall that the tips of the teeth go too deeply into the pinion Figure 5. Shows a depth Figure 6. Shows a depth with a pinion that is too which has a wheel that is small. too large. -- ... .-- .. 32 Horological Times/February 1989 leaves making the wheel too large for the pinion. This con if the butting is very slight, the wheel teeth could be topped dition is similar to the conditions shown in Figures 2, 5, and enough to correct the condition without replacing the pinion. 6 in which too much drop has been created. The action is The topping is done in a rounding-up tool with a cutter which as follows: As tooth B completes the end of its drive and slides will remove material at the tips of the teeth only. off of pinion leaf "b", tooth A will drop onto pinion leaf "a". Any time drop is present in gearing, the power trans "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. mission cannot be uniform. 'UCID To correct the action in this particular situation, one could reduce the height of the wheel addenda with the proper cutter in the rounding-up tool. Figure 8. Shows a depth which has a wheel that is too small. WHEEL TOO SMALL IN DIAMETER Figure 8 shows a faulty depth in which the wheel is too small. Note that the actual pitch circle of the wheel (dotted line) lies inside the correct pitch circle for the wheel that matches the pinion pitch circle. This indicates that the wheel is too small. This condition is similar to the conditions shown in Figure 1. The wheel being too small for the pinion causes the wheel pitch to be too small for the pitch of the pinion which causes tooth A to butt on the end of pinion leaf "a" as wheel tooth B drives pinion leaf "b" in the direc tion of the arrow. Note: Any time there is a butting or rubbing action in gearing, the power transmission cannot be uniform. The proper correction for this condition is to replace the small wheel with one of the correct diameter. PINION NOT CUT DEEP ENOUGH (core too large) Figure 9 shows a faulty depth. Although the wheel and pinion are of the proper diameters to work together and the two gears are the correct distance apart, there is a butting action caused by the pinion leaves not being cut deeply enough, or the pinion core is too large. Note that the tip of tooth A is touching the core of the pinion because of this. This error prevents the train from turning. To correct this error, the pinion should be replaced with one which is cut deeper (small core). In some cases, Figure 9. Shows a depth which has a pinion that is not cut deep enough (the core is too large). Figure 7. Shows a depth which has a wheel that is too large because of a high addendum. ------A February 1989/Horologi.cal Times 33 James Adams, CMW, CMBHI OIL and LUBRICATION PART 2 n the beginning, animal fat was probably the first ment manufacturers increased and the size of movements de lubricant used by man. There is evidence of th is in creased. Each decrease in size in production runs brought on I Egypt around 1400 B.C. Pliny (AD 23-79) mentions new lubricant problems. oils taken from plant seeds and animals-here used for food, The problems encountered for 300 years and research lubrication, and lamp light. Up until about 1847, when Dr. concerned the problem of ( 1) spreading, (2) viscosity, (3) James Young prepared a heavy grade of lubricating oil from volatility, and (4) corrosion (up until the time of modern petroleum by a process of distillation, animals and plants synthetic oil compounds). were the sole source of oils. SPREADING: When a drop of oil is placed on a plane The history of horology seems to indicate that oils surface, several forces commence to act on it. ( 1) The force were taken from animals, plants, and since Dr. James Young's of gravity tries to reduce the oil drop to its lowest plane. (2) work, mineral oil. In the realm of animal oils, these were The condition of the plane surface reacts to the oil drop. Sur extracted as neats-foot oil, which was rendered from the face films might aid in the drop's dispersion or repel dis shinbones of cattle; sperm oil from the sperm whale; and oil persion of the oil drop. (3) Surface contamination might from the gland in the jaws of the porpoise. Plant or vegetable create a capillary effect to disperse the oil drop. But in some oils were extracted from olive oil, castor oil, and others. cases, there are opposing forces that play their role. For the past 300 years, and until quite recently, There are forces within the oil molecules that exert horological oil has changed only minimally. European oils a degree of attraction to each other. You might think of these for the most part were neats-foot oil types. The French and as electrical forces of attraction. These are called "polar" English leaned toward mineral oil compounds, and American or charged groups. The polar effect is that these oil molecules makers early on tended to produce a cold, refined porpoise in direct contact with the plane surface orient themselves oil. It was thought that porpoise oil was generally more electrically in such a way as to minimize the oil surface attrac uniform in nature than neats-foot. The reason for this was that tion by side binding to each other, forming a tight, self the state of nutrition and the general health of animals varied attracting hemisphere of oil. An artificial aid to keeping a great deal, hence, effecting the general grade of oil extracted. oil from spreading was the use of "epilame". As the epilame The quotable quote, "Give me a perfect oil, and I solvent evaporated, it left behind a thin film of fatty acid will give you a perfect watch" is attributed to Abraham Louis molecules. These molecules oriented themselves in such a Breguet. If you were to take that quote literally you might way that their polar or charged end attached itself to the jewel think old Abe had an ego problem. Well, I take it to mean that surface. A drop of oil applied to this surface just would not Abe knew the positive and negative virtues of watch lubri spread. The most desirable aspect would be where the oil cants. And he also knew a better lubricant would have allowed drop would retain its hemispherical shape for the life of the him to produce yet better timepieces. oil drop. What characteristics make a watch oil? This question VISCOSITY: This is usually thought of as a resistance became quite acute and more worrisome as the skills of move- to flow; the density of body; the ease of which the oil mole- 34 Horological Times/February 1989 cules slip over each other. Viscosity plays its role also in Another equally harmful practice is to over-oil the spreadability of oil. It also has to do with the degree of a bearing hole. Some feel if a little oil helps, more oil helps slipperiness of oil. more. WRONG! Some feel that, out of frustration, a move VO LA Tl LITY: The degree of evaporation causing ment stopper or an intermittent stopper can be cured by gumminess, sludge and dried oil residue. What causes evapora applying extra dollops of oil. They are barking up the wrong tion? Oils are, as all things, composed of molecules. These tree. Extra oil will only work its way into areas of the move molecules are in a constant state of motion. They are held ment that are best served by being left dry or been left with together by mutual attraction. But every once in a while, a a bare minimum of lubrication. molecule will pick up enough energy to break the bond and The best approach to the method of lubrication fly off into space, reducing the size and composition by and areas of lubrication is to study in-depth those tech guides one molecule. The loss of oil molecules is accelerated by heat that illustrate (1) points of lubrication, (2) amount of lubrica and also by the penetration of the oil drop by perfume vapors, tion used, and (3) type of lubrication best for that area of cosmetic powders, and effects of a hostile atmosphere. When movement. Now here is where I start to get into "hot water" an oil tends to creep and spread, it presents a larger surface with those 42 watchmakers in a room mentioned earlier. for oil molecules to escape. I tend to at least listen to and try the tech guide lubrication CORROSION: All natural substances, animal or directives, except for brand "X" ideas mentioned earlier. But vegetable, has within its structure minute quantities of acids. before you accept blindly any lubrication directive, you must A by-product of this acid condition is oxidation. Oxidation understand friction/lubrication principles. Only then can you tends to thicken oil. Old-timers recognized these effects as see the logic or illogic of what is presented. "rancid" oil and keep a fresh supply of watch oil in their Remember, the lubrication of the tiniest mechanical pots at all times. device to the largest train locomotive and beyond require The ability of oil to protect metal from corrosion proper lubrication practices. lay in the "polar" effect mentioned earlier. Let us talk watch mainspring lubrication for a mo As you can see, the horological chemist had his work ment. In my mind proper lubrication of mainsprings presents cut out for him. He had to combine and recombine those a vexing problem-blue steel or white alloy. The side pressure various animal, vegetable, and mineral qualities into useful, of a coiled mainspring is tremendous and the slip action of long-lived substances known as watch oil and greases. And coil to coil is very slow. Any lubricant introduced in this to keep the best of each one's properties constant from batch harsh environment of extreme pressures will be squeezed out to batch was no small task. by the very nature of this component. We are dealing in a Oil and grease then, as you may have guessed, was boundary lubrication condition in its extreme. Worst of all, meant to separate two moving bodies and allow a controlled it is more difficult to lubricate like metal to like metal, steel degree of slippage without introducing its own detrimental on steel, or alloy on alloy, than it is to lubricate dissimilar effects. So when thinking of using a watch lubricant, you bearing surfaces. As soon as the lubricant is effectively squeezed must, by necessity, think in terms of oil molecules, metal out, we are in a "stick and slip" situation. If a grease of such density, and polish. viscosity as to sustain these load pressures is used, then "liquid friction" sets in to impede the uncoiling action of the main OILING TECHNIQUES spring. Over-greasing mainspring barrels only creates a lubrica Think for a moment: if any effect causes the oil tion bleeding problem from the barrel, and it's especially bad to change viscosity or spreadability in a mechanical watch if you are using a suspension of graphite or molybdenum train and escapements or a stepping motor quartz movement disulphide (that black stuff) in the barrel. train, the timekeeping ability of that movement is radically My personal problem is with the concept of the white altered. What can cause oil viscosity and spreadability to alloy or unbreakable mainspring. True, they seem more change? slippery than steel, but, the question is, can they be used The answer is cleanliness of bearing hole surfaces. without some form of external lubricant? I've argued the pros ( 1) Surface invisible films that cause oil to spread rather than and cons of that for years. What do you think? I opt to use let oil remain a tight hemispherical body. (2) Surface oil modest quantities of mainspring grease in white alloy barrels. borne dust and foreign bodies that deposit on bearing hole When oiling train bearing holes, or any bearing holes for that matter, use only enough oil as to see a ring of oil surfaces and create a capillary action that draws oil from bearing areas. (3) The volatile and oil-thinning properties of around the pivot. Don't flood the bearing hole sink with oil. perfume, cosmetics, powders, and soap essence. Some bearing holes don't even have an oil sink. Personally, These negative conditions are introduced by normal I think that's a mistake on the manufacturer's part. But wear habits and also poor cleaning techniques of the watch it does reduce fractionally the production cost of that move maker (not you, the other guy). Most watchmakers believe ment. oil cannot spread on a clean surface. WRONG! If an invisible film has been deposited on the bearing hole surface that REFERENCES: creates an oil spreading condition, then oil will spread. It is Modern Horological Lubrication, Zeal Products entirely possible that the invisible deposited film will act as Chemist Role in W,atch Oil, Hamilton Watch Co. an epilame and cause oil to remain in the bearing surfaces. Watch Lubrication, Elgin Watch Co. But this epilame effect is not long lived. February 1989 /Horological Times 35 TIHIE P11c1"'lL1 IA111L Marshall F. Richmond, CMW HEMOl!NTINC HINCS very highly profitable facet of the jewelry crafting is good. Having these top plates in stock for different size and repair profession can be remounting rings. To be stones can be helpful in completing a remount when the Aable to take full advantage of this requires a great proper head size is not on hand. It is a simple removal of the amount of knowledge and experience. Although fast service top you have and installing the top that is needed. It is then is not usually necessary to be successful, it certainly is no only a matter of setting the stone and making the completed deterrent. All the necessary knowledge and experience can be remount the proper finger size by removing a piece or adding acquired while doing remount jobs and making money while a piece to the bottom of the shank. To carry an inventory of learning. A good jewelry craftsman can be qualified to do all mountings in white and yellow gold with miracle or illusion the work in his own shop or send the work to one of any num heads in several finger sizes would require quite a sizeable ber of manufacturing jewelers who do remounting for the dollar investment, so an alternative for a fraction of the in trade. Remounting is not limited to only finger rings but can vestment can be to carry a few shanks in yellow or white gold be remounting stones in earrings, pendants, bracelets, or other and a range of stone sizes in miracle heads, four-prong settings, articles of men's or ladies' jewelry. It is also good to mount and six-prong settings in white gold. Also have on hand a range stones that have never been used, so the field is almost un of stone sizes in top plates, and most any solitaire remount limited. can be taken care of in your own shop without ordering Ring mountings and findings are available from spe mountings or findings. cial suppliers who specialize in mountings, from some jewelry Many rings that come in to be remounted have side wholesalers who carry a line of empty mountings, and findings stones anywhere from 1/2 point to 3 point side stones. On the suppliers that usually have some mountings or components engagement ring from one to three stones on each side of the for assembling mountings (such as shanks, blank basic rings center is most common and a matching wedding band contain and settings that can be used to assemble them). Most re ing from three to seven melee stones to match the engagement mounting is done in karat gold, although some of the less ring. These settings for the stones most commonly found are expensive stones such as turquoise can be mounted in silver, either pinpoint settings, or fishtail for the melee stones. As which usually necessitates making the mounting from scratch many findings suppliers do not also sell empty mountings, it since the stones are rarely standard sizes and blank silver is wise to have a good source from a mounting house. There mountings are not readily available. are many of these suppliers available, and some are manufac The simplest mountings are plain ladies' solitaire turers, but they will sell one ring or as many as you care to engagement mountings which can be purchased in four- or purchase. There is, however, a caution when relying on mount six-prong settings, miracle top heads, or by purchasing the ing jobbers instead of manufacturers when selling a remount shanks separately, then the heads (settings) in the size needed from a catalog: if when it is ordered they are out of stock, to fit the diamond. The miracle or illusion heads have the top there is a possibility of a six-week waiting period or that the plate gold soldered to the body in the four comers. These are particular mounting you have ordered has been discontinued. removable so the top plate can be replaced with the proper Really the best way to be able to sell remounts is to have a size plate for the size of the stone to be used. This can also be good selection of empty mountings on hand so that when a used for replacing only the top plate when the rest of the ring customer selects one, you have it and only have to set the 36 Horological Times/February 1989 diamond(s) or stones and size it to fit the finger. Again, it is can then be filled in and polished with a color close to the well to be an experienced craftsman so that mountings can be original. Today many manufactured rings on the market (in altered with material on hand. Then there can be no dis cluding class rings) use this epoxy type of enameling, which in appointment for the customer when you cannot produce the many cases will prove more durable than the brittle glass type mounting they have ordered. enamel. Findings suppliers usually show a number of blank Before applying heat, or straightening/stretching rings mounting styles that can be used to fit most any number and which contain enamel, the type of enamel should be deter size of stones. Most of these can be classed as dinner or cock mined; then, how to handle the repair or sizing can be planned tail rings. Settings to fit the stones can be gold soldered to the accordingly. Heat on epoxy type substances will destroy it, basic mounting in any arrangement to make a beautiful multi so make sure you know the possible results before you start stone ring. The settings are available in white or yellow gold as the work. Other gent's remounts, if diamonds are involved, is the base mounting. If diamonds are to be used, it is always usually have a top plate that is made to accommodate a good best to use white settings because the diamonds pick up a range of diamond sizes. However, if the top plate is not suit yellow color from the setting which distracts from the bril able for the diamond to be used, it can be removed and another liancy of the diamond(s). Most of the findings catalogs contain plate that is suitable can be gold soldered in its place. current prices for each listing, so when selling a remount it is No doubt multi-stone rings create the greatest prob easy to figure the cost of the materials. Even though you carry lem in finding a suitable mounting, for the stone sizes can be a large inventory of mountings and findings, it is well to keep so variable that no manufactured mounting can be found to current priced catalogs, because today they may be more valu fit the stones. In situations such as this, alterations in a mount able than when they were purchased some time ago. The dif ing that may come close are in order. Gold rings can be altered ference in price may be extra profits for you. A craftsman has in most any way imagineable. Gold can be added, removed, to figure out his own pricing system. The keystone system has settings can be added or removed, plates can be added, and been used in the jewelry industry for many years, but in to gold can be overlayed or inlaid with opposite colors of gold. day's cost of doing business many are using triple keystone A novice craftsman can develop into a master craftsman with for materials. So, you should figure what your needs are and the use of practice, hard work, and good common sense. By price accordingly. On labor the same thing applies, and as starting out doing the simple remount jobs and gradually at there is not an abundance of jewelry craftsmen, people will tempting the more difficult, knowledge and skill can be pay will for this kind of work. achieved, and at the same time you are making money working Pendants, earrings, and other articles of jewelry can at your trade. be used to mount customers' stones whether in old mountings Most jewelry craftsmen who do work for the trade or loose. When using loose stones, make sure of the sizes and are called "manufacturing jewelers," and most of them who shapes before quoting prices; if they are not standard sizes and follow this for enough years become capable of making almost shapes, mountings or settings may not be available. The set any piece of jewelry imagineable. One manufacturing jeweler tings will probably then need to be handmade, and mountings that I know teamed up with a company that had financial may have to be altered to make the stone settings fit. Some resources enough to purchase a stock of blank ring mountings pendant and earring findings are available from any findings probably second to none. With a portable shop they worked supplier. An excellent selection can be found from mounting through jewelry departments in large department stores and specialty houses. Again, I'd like to caution here on delivery large retail jewelry stores, and with pre-advertising would set time for out-of-stock items and promising a certain mounting up in these retail outlets for a week or more at a time. The when there can always be a possibility of it having been dis number of rings they would remount at each location was continued. staggering. The one thing that this proves to me is that the de Gent's ring mountings are also available from mount mand for this service is great. However, to really make it a ing specialty houses. Many lodge rings are made for diamonds volume business, the inventory in gold rings would have to be and these mountings are available in different diamond sizes. exceptionally large and well classified so as not to spend too Many of these rings have hard enamel ornamentation on the much time hunting a mounting to match the stones that the top or the sides of the shank next to the top. This hard enamel customer wants mounted. By having this large inventory, is really colored glass that is flowed into the cut in designs and customers could see what they would get rather than looking then polished, but it is flint hard and very brittle. If one of at a picture in a catalog or a drawing. It would also eliminate these mountings requires a size change in rerounding the ring, the possibility of the ring being out of stock when ordered it can cause the enamel to crack and even pieces chip out. This or discontinued. With this system, customer dissatisfaction can be replaced by a trade shop enameler who specializes in could be held to a minimum-if not completely eliminated. this type of work. The next article will be a continuation of remounting Another alternative to repairing these is an epoxy with step-by-step instructions for assembling a ladies' soli substance that can be purchased in a set with small bottles taire and setting the stone. Also, I'll give instructions on set of different colors and a can of hardener to mix with it. Time ting gent's rectangular, oval, or other shaped stones. of cure depends on the ratio of hardener mixed with the color, but if let set overnight it can be filed and polished so if you COLORS OF GOLD can match the color where a chip is out it can be patched so Yellow, white, red, and green gold are produced by it is not visible to the naked eye. If the color cannot be matched using different alloys; silver and zinc for green, and copper perfectly, the old enamel should be removed and the figure for red, and nickel for white. ~ February 1989/Horological Times 37 Should You Consider Doing Trade Work?' By Emilio Aponte, Jr., CW Emilio Aponte, Jr. was born in New York City in 1936. He graduated High School of Com merce in 1953 and served four years in the Marine Corps. He graduated Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking, class of 1960. Mr. Aponte worked in Helbros and Bulova Watch Companies, managed a jewelry store in New York City for 5 years, worked 9 years in a jewelry store in North Carolina, and now operates a trade shop. He is a member and director of the North Carolina Watchmakers Association, member of the Coastal Plains Guild, member of AWi, and chairman on the advisory board at Wayne Community College Watchmaking Department. Mr. Aponte, Sr. was a watchmaker, jeweler and diamond cutter. he purpose of this article is to introduce trad.e ~ork will save time and avoid switching equipment back and forth. to some repairmen and remind others that 1t 1s an A good carpenter can build benches at a reasonable price. Toption available to them. For many it can be an Allow plenty of room for tools and material cabinets. These opportunity to see the need to change work habits, location, should be within comfortable reach while working. and conditions. In some areas it may be the best way to earn It will be a good idea to use an outside wall to vent a living. the electroplating equipment. Consider venting the polishing The average watchmaker/store owner prefers to do machine outside also. In fact, it is best to have separate rooms all the watch and jewelry repairs himself. If he misses or for jewelry and watch repair due to the dust created by bungles a sale because of his concentration on repairs or cell jewelry repair. replacement, he has lost his highest profit maker and possibly If you are planning to build a shop, have as many dissatisfied a customer. It's best to find a reliable watch and circuits installed with breakers as possible. If the work area jewelry repairman and send him a portion of the work. This is in the back of the store, consider installing two-way sliding leaves quality time for customers, sales, and planning. glass panels. This way you can see what is occurring in the Many stores do not have a watchmaker or jeweler on front of the store. the premise. Repairs are accepted and performed elsewhere, If you plan to use bottled oxygen, acetylene, or returned to the store, and delivered to customers. This work propane in you jewelry repair department, check your local is done in large trade shops or independent shops. Trade shop and county building codes first. In some areas the fire depart owners provide professional services to jewelry stores. Their ment issues permits for these bottles. In other areas a special advantage is that a variety of repairs pass across their bench use permit and conditions are required for these gasses. If each day. These shops are often better equipped to service this is the case, check with the local authorities to see which all watches, clocks, and jewelry taken in. agency is responsible for issuing these permits. Be aware that Many watchmakers are doing trade work now and this is for your safety and public safety. many others are considering this alternative. Trade workers Remember, good tools are best and cheaper over must be self-motivated. They must have the ability to allocate the years. their time wisely each day, be honest, punctual, and depend It would be in your best interest to open accounts able. with at least four material suppliers. This way when a back Here are some advantages to doing trade work: ( 1) If order is received from one supplier and you are rushed, you repair work is slow in one area, you will be receiving work can order the material from the next supplier. Each whole from another area to off-set this. (2) By not dealing directly saler carries different inventory priorities. Your priority is with customers, you have more uninterrupted time to pro receiving the material quickly and sending out the repairs duce. (3) You don't collect and send in sales taxes. In most as quickly as possible. states the stores handle this. (4) You have adjustable work You will need a price list for the various types of hours. (5) You will be self-employed. (6) There are tax ad movements, such as regular stem wind, automatic, calendar, vantages if the shop is in the home. chronographs, quartz, etc. Itemized specific jewelry and clock Here is a guide for anyone planning to go into trade lists are also necessary. Remember, what the store charges is work to earn a living: not your concern. A fair return on your work is important. First, take the time to visit several trade shops. When making estimates on crystals, crowns, circuits, prongs, Observe the layout and placement of benches, equipment, etc. it is important to consider cost and overhead based on and tools. Ask the repairman if he had it to do over, what your past experiences. improvements would he include in the shop? You MUST visit the stores sending you work. It Next, buy graph paper. Draw your work area to would be to your advantage to train the employees on inspect scale. Use this drawing to place items where they are easily ing and receiving repairs. Teach them to notice any damage accessible. It may be practical to design separate quartz, to crystals, cases, crowns, bands, rings, prongs, stones, etc. mechanical watch, clock, and jewelry repair benches. This These things MUST be noted on the job envelope upon in- 38 Horological Times/Febru.ary 1989 *Copyright 1989, Emilio Aponte, Jr. All rights reserved . spection. Work this out with the managers and owners before marked "clean" are to be cleaned only. If more work is you accept their trade account. Familiarize them with the needed, an estimate is given before doing any work. The problems suppliers have in stocking some types of material. repairs marked "fix" indicates to fix all that is wrong. Many times a "guesstimate" must be made instead of an At another store the work is picked up and estimated estimate. (In such a case agree that the guess is not final until in my shop. These estimates are called in to the store (a local you confirm it, after obtaining the information from the call). The clerk contacts the customers for all approvals, supplier.) then calls my shop with these approvals. Consider a dress code. With some store locations it Each account is handled differently. may be desirable to wear a dress shirt with a tie when you How will you send estimates of watch repairs? By deliver work. While delivering to a couple of stores, I feel mail? On the invoice write the customer's name, ticket num comfortable wearing a tee shirt and shorts in the summer; ber, phone number, problem, and estimate. Then hold these however, in this situation I do not deal with customers in any for approval for an agreed length of time. Check your records, way. you may find that 10% of your time is consumed in making After a few years of experience you will realize that estimates. At this point charges for estimates are justified even with chain stores a formal written agreement will be best. though your customers may not agree. As a rule store managers are changed frequently, whereas In my opinion a warranty of approximately ten with one-owner stores employees stay many years. If you months should be sufficient. If a watch that I service has have a written agreement, this will greatly enhance the work performed well for six to ten months, then it is evident that ing relationship with the new manager. As conditions and the original servicing has been accomplished in a thorough, repairs change, modifications on prices, payments, and other effective, and professional manner. Following the delivery items can be adjusted to satisfy both parties. Remember, of the repair, every technician has no control over the en situations will always arise that necessitate adjustment. Come vironmental conditions by which the customer treats or wears to a mutual agreement on delivery dates and times. Will the timepiece or jewelry. Therefore, a ten-month period is you choose personal pick up, mail, or UPS? Any combination a fair criterion for the jewelry store, customer, and repair will work. technician. Some thought should be given to the manner in Decide on a return (comeback) policy and length of which you bill your customers. Of course there will be the warranty. Be fair. A satisfied customer will return with work. invoice contained with each delivery; but, will you send a Don't make an extra dollar today and lose ·che customer statement monthly or depend on your customers' tally of the tomorrow. invoices and expect them to send a payment? Will you offer Electronic circuits are fickle. They can fail in an a small percentage discount for payment by the 10th of the instant. Many trade shops will not guarantee any circuit month? Also bear in mind, when making up a price list and once the item leaves the shop. In reality, it is impossible when you are sending out statements, the special services to guarantee any circuit. Therefore, arrangements must be that you provide such as personal delivery, long distance made with accounts before a problem arises as to how a charge calls to give estimates, etc. These all need to be figured into will be made and who is to pay for replacement circuits the prices quoted to the store. While these services are mu during the warranty period. I share the cost with the store tually rewarding, they come out of your profits. whenever possible within the warranty period. Realize that Work out a method of how you will be paid. Once this is a loss of your profit. I prefer to recover the full cost a month is OK for some accounts. More frequent payments of the replacement circuit. Remember, if the manufacturer would be better for most of us. With most of my accounts will not guarantee the circuit, then how can you give a better I insist on being paid once a week, the others in two weeks guarantee? or three weeks maximum. It is quite expensive to tie up Develop a habit of making a monthly list of the money in material and wait a prolonged time for your pay repairs you are holding for estimates, then send the list to your ments. Your supplier insists on being paid promptly every account. This will help keep down the accumulation of esti month. mates in your shop. Above all, keep accurate records. I use As for estimates, there are a number of ways they my copy of the invoice to write the case number, model, can be handled to the satisfaction of all concerned. In the crystal number, crown number, karat, stones, etc. of each interest of time, a required estimate can be given by phone. repair. A written record of the estimate, the approval, the date of Inquire to find out if your new account has used the estimate, and the name of the person who approves another watchmaker, clockmaker, or jeweler. If so, get in the estimate MUST be kept. This will avoid misunderstandings. touch with that individual. Check as a reference, it may save Written estimates and approvals are, of course, much better, you some heartache in the future. though not as prompt. Do not tolerate a bad account. If you have a bad Let's have some examples. At one store the watches account, find a replacement account and then notify the bad taken in for repair are placed on a board. Some are tagged account that you will no longer do their repairs, or keep "repair if not more than $XX.OO." If more work is required raising the price till they make the decision. Be sure to give I write the estimate and call the customer. I indicate that the reasons. This may change the store's attitude toward their we extend the courtesy of an estimate before proceeding with next repairman and encourage the store to work with their the repair. The approved repairs are "written up" and taken trade accounts. to my shop. In the end it is your personality and ability to com At the store down the street, I pick up the work and municate that will determine how you implement these take it to the shop. If an estimate is required, the next time "conditions" and "agreements". Experience, also, may be the I'm in town the estimate is delivered. The clerk will then call determining factor in your success or failure. the customer for an approval. Only then will I proceed with I need your ideas. They are beneficial to those con the repair. sidering doing trade work. At a third location I pick up the repairs. Those February 1989/Horological Times 39 CLOCK TBOl!BLESHOOTINC ©1989, Leo A. Jaroslaw. All rights reserved by author. Leo A. Jaroslaw A DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEMS APPROACH PART FIVE n the first three parts of this series we discussed Check for a wall clock hanging loose on one point strategies and tactics of a diagnostic system of trou not otherwise fastened or stabilized to the wall, or a tall/grand I bleshooting, both general and specifically to clocks. father clock on a soft carpet or otherwise unsteady surface. We also discussed and demonstrated the algorithmic system These could be stopping due to a harmonic set-up between of flowcharts. In Part 4 we demonstrated a flowchart for a the weights and pendulum caused by the lack of steadiness problem in a specific complicated clock. Now we will proceed. in the case. A loose seatboard in an antique tall clock could Note: At this time we will add another symbol to disturb the beat at this point as could the whole case of any be used with our flowcharts (REF. 0.0). At times, text and tall clock on a rug. The swinging weight could also be con explanations need more space than the box provides. Ref tacting the pendulum disturbing its swing. A wobbling pendu erences will be provided off the chart. The first digit/s will lum with a steady case can also possibly contact the weights. identify the flowchart number. The second digit/s assigned Check alignment of the bob and condition of the suspension in sequence identifies the specific text to be read at that time. spring. This could also affect timekeeping which is another This is not a normal symbol in algorithmic flowcharts. problem. In this and future parts we will follow through with In any type of clock check for hands touching problems/troubles in specific trains and/or clock systems each other (minute, hour, second, or calendar), the dial, going from the general to the specific (general being troubles/ or the front glass. If the hands are not touching, try to move problems applicable to all or most clocks, then continuing the minute hand clockwise. If it is jammed, the cause could on to specific makes or types of clocks). be that the strike was not working (on a rack and snail strike system). Normally this would be indicated by the clock TIME (GOING) TRAIN stopping shortly before one o'clock, especially in French Problem: clock stops or doesn't run. Before we get clocks. I mention this possibility because of a recent incident. into the movement, let's discuss some troubles which should I was on a house call for an antique English tall clock. The be checked while the movement is still in the case. Remember customer called telling me that the clock had stopped. This in Part 2 of this series we spoke of quick fixes. Here are some clock had been overhauled and it was shortly before the examples. (Note: After each check, see if the clock will run. warranty was up. I pulled the quick checks described to this If it runs, the part checked and corrected is probably the key point with no success. When I removed the dial I found the fault.) racktail crushed like a pretzel and riding on the snail. When On weight driven pendulum clocks open the doors questioned, the customer said that the strike had not been and look for evidence of contact of either the weights and/or working for some time, but it wasn't important to her. Nor the pendulum. Does the clock run with the door open? Does mally the racktail would either butt up against the step up on the weight rest on the lower door jamb or otherwise rub on the snail from the 12 to the 1 o'clock steps, or ride up onto the lower case? Question the customer. Does the clock always the snail on the ramp or bevel provided on many of the stop when the weights are in the vicinity of the pendulum snails. In this unusual case the racktail was a replacement bob? Same day in an eight-day clock or same hour in a thirty (some time ago) and was not very flexible. How the clock hour clock? continued to run after damaging the tail is something I can't 40 Horological Times/February 1989 explain. It's just one of the unusual situations clock trouble shooters come up against. The basic problem in this particular INTEREST-FREE LOANS case is in the strike and/or the chime train, which we will AVAILABLE TO SERIOUS cover later in this series. Enough for this interesting digression, CLOCK STUDENTS let us continue with our checks for the clock stopping or not running. The Student Loan Program of the Educational, At this point, in a tall clock, if the bonnet/hood can Library and Museum Charitable Trust has funds be removed, do so. In other clocks gain visual accesss to the available for loan to students needing financial movement. If it is dirty, gummy, dried oils, etc. it obviously will need a cleaning which may be the prime cause of the assistance to obtain training in Clock Repair. problem. However, we should continue with some of the quick checks to localize the area or sub-system causing the This fund was established by Orville R. Hagans problem. in memory of J.E. Coleman, many of his friends In an antique tall clock, if weights hitting the pendu and benefactors making contributions. Mr. lum is suspected (now with the bonnet off). check the loca Coleman, who died in 197 5, was one of the tion of the pendulum suspension. Many of these movements most knowledgeable clockmakers in the country have two positions (notches) on the hanger/cock for hanging and was always ready to assist anyone with his the suspension spring. If the suspension is in the notch closest advice and counsel. He was a firm believer in to the movement, moving it to the outer one could solve the necessity of thorough training for all clock the problem. A word of caution-after moving the suspension repair persons and was disturbed by those who check for clearance between the bob and the back wall/panel believed they could repair clocks without much of the clock case. training. Remove the hands. Check again if the clock runs. If it runs with the hands removed, check the hand washer and the relative position between the step/seat for the minute For applications, write to: J.E. Coleman Memori hand on the minute pipe and the top of the hour pipe. If al Fund, AWi-ELM Trust, P.O. Box 11011, Cin the step is adjacent to or below the end of the hour pipe, cinnati, OH 45211. Applications must be com the inside of the minute hand will bind on the hour pipe pleted and returned to AWi before June 1, 1989 when it is pinned. If the hand washer is flat, even if tightly in order to be considered this year. pinned, it will not hold the minute hand stable. This could cause the minute hand to interfere with the hour hand or the front glass in some position. A dished washer will provide even tension to the hand outside of the square or rectangular THEAWIMOVEMENTBANK seat, thereby stabilizing the hand. If the hour hand or its pipe comes out and contacts *Conserving the Present* a stabi Ii zed minute hand, check for excessive freedom or *Providing for the Future* movement. This is normally prevented either by design of the he AWI Movement Bank is established for the pur minute wheel cock which should have an overhang to contain pose of providing a reservoir of discontinued parts and limit the movement or a washer/pin which accomplishes Tfor use by present and future generation watch- the same. makers. In time the Bank will expand to include clock move If all the hand and motion work checks have not ments as well. pointed to the trouble, check the clearance between the hour If desired, a tax credit can be taken for your con pipe and the dial where it passes through. If there is minimal tribution. If you plan to claim tax credit, indicate the value clearance or none at all, check the dial. Try to lift it. If the you place on your donation at the time you sent it; the ELM dial posts are loose or possibly not pinned, the dial could sag Trust will acknowledge receipt, and it will be your respon and rest on the pipe. If this condition cannot be repaired at sibility to justify that value to the IRS in the event they ques tion you about it. this time, the dial could be shimmed to lift it off the pipe Your contribution at this time will hasten the day providing a quick temporary fix. we can begin to service requests for withdrawal from the At this point let's assume that none of the checks Bank. Although "Phase I" of the project deals only with so far have revealed the cause of the problem. The clock watches, donations of watches, clocks, and loose material will won't run or it stops. To continue remove the dial. Examine be welcome at this time. all the exposed wheels, posts and cocks for obvious dirt, Movement Bank Contributors dried or gummy oil, or bent or broken teeth. Remove the components and try another run. If the clock still won't James Adams J. Kohnowich run, any further work will require that the movement be Arthur L. Brown Antonio Marquis Harry N. Campbell Patsy F. Martone removed from the case. Alfred H. Dickinson Lloyd L. Mays Note: the discussion to this point applied primarily Hugh W. Drake Robert A. Nelson to pendulum clocks. However, outside of the references to Nicholas Garguilo Cameron C. Spicknall the pendulum and case stability, most of the other checks Ralph Geiger Milton C. Stevens apply to balance wheel and electric clocks. Robert D. Gruen 0.S. Whitten After removal of the movement, continue your Harold J. Herman Harry & Sue Wysong troubleshooting with the movement on the bench using the Fred C. Hougham flowcharts starting with the next part of this series as your Send your donation to: AWi/ELM MOVEMENT BANK, performance guide. Good hunting! AWi CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45211. February 1989/Horo/ogical Times 41 BOOK REVIEW EUROPEAN PENDULUM CLOCKS by Peter Heuer and Dr. clock with horizontal orbital ring dials made their appearance. Klaus Maurice. 9"xl2", 334 pages, 730 b/w and color photos At the turn of the century, full allegorical figures decorated of 700+ clocks. Published 1988 by Schiffer, $60.00. the tops of table clocks which are shown in numerous models made by famous French makers. These same clocks were used The term "pendulum clock" immediately brings to mind as models three-quarters of a century later in cheap, cast timepieces made after Gallileo's and Huygens' discoveries and metal imitations by some Connecticut makers. the latter's practical application of the pendulum after the mid- Some beautiful lyre skeletonized table clocks fore 17th century. running the later English skeleton clock are shown. Already This book does just that. When in that period the many timepieces contained complications with fine Harrison scientific society published their new discoveries, it was left to gridiron compensated pendulums and coup'perdu escape the artisan craftsman to put these inventions and new tech ments, allowing normal half seconds pendulums to contain nologies into being. And so it was with clocks. jump-seconds, centered hands. Others by Janvier and Raingo The exactitude with which these mechanisms had to are pictured with orreries and equation-of-time indicators. be made caused the clockmaker to specialize only on the With the railroads and industrial revolution, clock movement, leaving the case and ornamentation to the out designs reflected this influence, and this book describes and side specialists. Thus, the influence of the scientist in clock pictures clocks with automated figures, simulated mechanisms, making even carried over to domestic clocks. The decorator and the series of Guilmet's mystery clocks of the 1860s and casemaker-cabinetmaker used these new more precise time clocks with acrobatic figures. keepers inside ornate cases and dials to suit the motifs of its The term "Standing Clock" as used in this book in surroundings. For others where timekeeping was a priority, cludes those with short pendulums but mounted on columns, the casemaker executed his designs in a more austere mode high platforms, or pediments. Others are truly seconds-pendu but elegantly and tastefully made. This book shows over 700 lum floor clocks. Almost every famous French maker's prod different pendulum clocks as "Decorative Instruments of ucts are included. Often, movement details accompany a par Measuring Time" (the book's alternate title). ticular clock of unusual movement construction. Almost half As a result, the theme of this book covers early his of this book is devoted to the varied quality products of tory, guilds, scientific contributions, ornamentation, and the France covering almost one-and-a-half centuries. artisans involved. In it the main section is devoted to French The English section devotes about a hundred pages clocks, English clocks, those made in Holland, Sweden, and starting with two foliot balance lantern clocks then showing the Germanic countries such as Austria, Czechoslovakia, and a pendulum lantern clock with wings by Windmills. Bracket Switzerland. clocks by Knibb, Graham, Tompion, Mussy, Quare, Norton, In France, particularly, the clock was a decorative Markwick, and numerous musical and equation-of-time details object as well. The authors remind the reader when, at the end are included. Clocks with ornate and complicated automation, of the first half of the 18th century, the illusionary wall and evidently for export to the near and far east by Tobias, Cox, ceiling paintings ceased, the clock case parts contained three Rimbault, are clearly pictured and described. English wall dimensional figures and raised metal ornaments that took over clocks include cartel, tavern, and "Act of Parliament" types. the position of bearing pictorial subjects. Designs in clock Austere shelf and table clocks of the early 19th cen cases were often performed by well-known artists. The text tury are followed by some ornate Napoleon III period and of this book amply details this. Brocot perpetual calendar with his outside escapements. Con French one-hand clocks of the latter half of the 17th greve rolling ball and skeletonized clocks whose entire train century are shown as the precursor of the English lantern wheels have ratchet teeth are followed by a group of wall clock. Also Louis XIV cartouche dial wall clocks and mantel regulators. clocks which resemble their Dutch counterparts already two A special section of English standing clocks takes up handed, appeared soon after Huygens' new pendulum time 40 pages with clocks by Graham, Knibb, Edmund Card, and keepers. those from the shops of just lesser known makers. These are Excellent photos show the products of Martinat, a shown in many different styles and periods. Some of the as royal clockmaker from 1689 until his death in 1725. tronomical clocks have separate photos of their movements. Since the pendulum was a giant leap to precision Alexander Cummings is represented by a barograph timekeeping, some decorative clocks shown also contained clock showing reserve power, maintaining power, and air calendric and astronomical indications. Boulle bracket, cartel pressure-recorder with skeletonized dial. His other compli clocks with cartouche enamel Roman numerals and ornate cated clocks are shown with auxiliary photographs of their fire-gilt ornamentation with allegorical figures adorn such movements. Clocks by John Ellicott have pictured movements clocks. revealing the use of friction roller bearings with other clocks This style with some modifications is shown with made up to about 1850. clocks mounted on bronze and porcelain elephants, rhinocer Dutch clocks are represented in 21 pages and by 40 oses, and other animals and figures. Meisen, with oriental timepieces. "Haags Kloks," their movements, tall-cased clocks motifs, blackamoors, and elaborate chinoise motif, might at and the typical floor clocks with center-topped Atlas and with time overpower the clock's prime purpose. Cartel clocks in winged angel trumpeters as finials, automated upper panels, all mediums, some with calendar mechanisms and most with musical and calendar mechanisms are shown by photos in 12 striking arrangements cover the first part of this book which is such models. Dutch wall clocks of various types and regions devoted to various types of French clocks. complete the Holland-made clocks. By the end of the 18th century, the French urn Swedish cartel and their shelf clocks resemble in a 42 Horological Times/ February 1989 modest way the early French clocks of this category. Thirty arcade's steel grates would descend upon an alarm, locking in one clocks pictured in this Scandinavian section are followed any fleeing robber. The movie 15 Maiden Lane dramatized all by "Pendulum Clocks in the German Lands." this, Hollywood style. Telleruhr or plate clocks of the 1690 period are rep On the corner of Maiden Lane and Broadway was the resented by 12 models with short pendulums. Gravity or high-grade retail store of William Bartham, whose sidewalk "ladder and saw-tooth" clocks as these are termed using rack clock was literally in the sidewalk (and I think it's still there). and pinion with weighted movement mounted on these ver The next store north was Keene's, whose window was literal tical racks are pictured with 11 fine clocks from Austria. ly piled high with imported Waltham watches, originally sent Early night clocks from the Innsbruck area and some from there at highly reduced prices. Munich, tortoise-shell clocks with gilt ornamentation, 18th 15 Maiden Lane's busy arcade led into John Street, century "Augsburg" table astronomical clocks, "metallo where the refiners, jewelers, and trade journal offices were phone" (tuned iron bars), South German-Swabian area clocks located, and a very popular cafe. During lunchtime in this cafe, from the early 18th century to mid-19th century (some in each long table would seat jewelers, at another engravers, those years in the French manner), are shown but with more diamond setters and dealers at their own tables, and still ano modest ornamentation. ther with some of America's finest watchmakers, mostly with Automated picture clocks and picture-frame clocks European training. This was where I sat with ears cocked to from Austria and the typical Austrian one-day grande-sonner catch any revealing trade secrets and trade hints. ies automated clocks show the familiar cupid's workshop Outside with their ever-present cigars were the ap grinding arrowheads. Czechoslovakia is grouped under the parent loiterers who were in fact detectives who could quickly German section by complicated but attractive clocks with spot any known felon or convict and hustle him from that delicately designed dials and hands. Seventeen tall clocks, off-limits area, forbidden to those with questionable pasts. some of which have glockenspiel devices, are included as well. Yet, within a decade, the exodus uptown of all was almost The floor clock whose dial graces the dust jacket is complete. But enough of that which is another story ... back Viennese by Binder and indicates hours, minute and seconds, to the subject of this large color picture·book. sunrise and sunset, month, day of week and date, true (solar) With so many watches pictured one might expect to mean solar time, moon-phases, and winding power reserve. find almost every name brand and it does satisfy such expec There are some clocks with "orchestrions" with separate tations. The U.S.-made brands of Hamilton, Illinois, Elgin, photos of their insides. A good name index and an equally Hampden, South Bend, Ingersoll, New Haven, can easily be good general index completes the book. found with multiple examples. Benrus, Bulova, Gruen, and In all, it is quite well put together by two well-known Ball at first used Swiss movements but of these Bulova eventu authors. Dr. Maurice is an experienced author and is curator ally manufactured millions at its Woodside and Jackson Heights at the German Museum in Munich with its fine clock collec plants. Benrus, too, near the end of its popular reign made tion. some in its Connecticut plant at Ridgefield using the old Alden Henry B. Fried model originally made in Waterbury. Gruen would assemble watches at Time Hill in Cincinnati from parts at its Swiss plant. For a very short time, there was a Mount Vernon Watch AMERICAN WRISTWATCHES, Five Decades of Style and Company situated in Westchester County adjacent to the City Design by Ed Faber, Stewart Unger, and Ettigale Blauer. of New York and where it assembled movements of Peseux 9"x12'', 277 pages, all color with 630 watches, and 325 ap origin. A book with close to a thousand different wristwatches pearing in reproduced advertisements. Published 1988 by would presumably include those whose labels were readily Schiffer Pub. Ltd., $79.50. accepted by the U.S. buying public and equally popular as well in Europe. These because of their design originalities Reading through this book, it is difficult for this reviewer make them collectible items to many who consider them who is old enough to consider every watch pictured in it as American by adoption. contemporary items to still resist indulging in some nos Stewart Unger and Edward Faber are successful talgic reminiscences. Madison Avenue dealers in vintage wristwatches and their In the early twenties (when this book begins its selections not only are photogenic but with so many examples, pictorial recordings) was a time when virtually all the watch certainly representative of the American wristwatch scene. companies were clustered in downtown Manhattan in a small Ettigale Blauer, formerly feature writer and fashion editor of area, a veritable horological Baghdad-On-The-Hudson, with the Jewelers' Circular-Keystone, has edited and researched Maiden Lane, the ancient Dutch Maiden's Path, as its Main much of the text in a professional manner, making the reading Street. and continuity easier to digest. Most of the manufacturers' representatives, import With each watch pictured in color, one is reminded ers, and dealers were situated there. On Maiden Lane itself that although the Europeans had quite a head-start with the were Omega, Concord, Mathey Brothers, Zenith, Guinand, wristwatch due in part to their direct involvement in WWI, Vacheron-Constantin, Jules Jurgensen, Tavannes, Seth Thomas, which was the catalyst to its acceptance and popularity, Jules Racine (Enicar backwards), XL Watch Company, Banner, American watch case and jewelry designers, some named in and Bulova. Around the corner were Patek Philippe on Nassau this book, soon provided very attractive and saleable watches Street with Ansonia, Jules Jurgensen, Dubois Watch Case even if some of its insides weren't up to the burgeoning Swiss Co. (one of the first to make bracelet watch cases), Huguenin, technology. and others. From 13 Maiden Lane, this apprentice could sprint The book's eight chapters are: 1) Historical Develop to 22 Maiden Lane where Joseph Bulova would sell my em ment of the Wristwatch; 2) Transition: Out of the Pocket, ployer some movements which were then dialed and cased un 1915-1925; 3) The Decorative Period, 1925-1936; 4) Stream der a private label. Next door was the famous jewelry building, lining the Thirties; The Novelty Wristwatch, 1933-The Present; 15 Maiden Lane, the first burglar-robber-proof building whose 5) The War Years, 1940-1945; 6) Retro Modern; The Decade February 1989/Horological Times 43 After the War, 1945-1955; 7) The Eccentric Fifties: Hamilton, An Electrifying Idea; 8) The Sixties, The Last Tick of American Dominance. Also, there is an Epilogue, Watch Company AWi PRESS Histories, Glossary, Bibliography, and a good Index. The earliest watch shown is a Waltham of 1912, 6/0 size (1 inch) which coincides with the awareness of wrist watch potential by American makers. These later evolved into BOOKS attractive practical timepieces with a great variety of designs and models. The Bulova story is well documented with numerous BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH/CLOCKMAKERS-Henry B. photos and reproductions of attractive advertisements. Bulova's Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins. jeweling and dial repairs. $16.95 innovative use of broadcasting the time hourly promoted its sales dramatically in an era when controls over exorbitant CAVALCADE OF TIME-Henry B. Fried. Highlights of the Zale Private Collection of Timepieces. $16.95 claims were not as well policed as they are today. Their bold announcement of an observatory atop their building at 580 THE BEST OF J.E. Coleman-CLOCKMAKER-Orville R. Hagans. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repair. $30.00 5th Avenue showed a building that looked suspiciously like the unfinished Empire State Building about a half mile south ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR-Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A prac ticing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95 ward. How effective such an observatory-if in fact it existed as one with the Great White Way but a few hundred yards GRUEN WATCHES, A SPECIAL COLLECTION-Robert D. Gruen. Booklet is a publication devoted to the Gruen collection on display west, washing out any truly observable star through the at the Orville R. Hagans AWi Museum. $6.95 brightly lit skyway through a transit-is questionable. However, HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS that too is another story, but their products made from raw Steven G. Conover. A book for the serious clockmaker interested materials in their Queens plants across the river were well in high-quality timepieces. $12.95 engineered, pragmatically following successful Swiss ebauche QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFES patterns. Many were nicely made. Their plates were first en SION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95 graved with the Bulova logos and jewel number, then gold QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFES SION-AWi. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. plated. The plating was then covered with a vaseline-like sub $14.95 stance when the entire plates were rhodium or nickel plated. REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES-Henry B. Fried. Includes a After washing, the Bulova engravings and jewel count stood basic course in electricity and electronic horology. $22.95. out in real gold plate. STA IKING CLOCKS-Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. A hands-on survey for It is regretted that none of these movements are the clockmaker. $7 .95 shown. In fact, with the impressive numbers of watches pic THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER-Marvin E. Whitney. A concise tured in this otherwise fine book, not one movement from any treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece ... for the collector as factory, save the Accutron and a Madison Avenue artist's well as the horologist. $75.00 rendition of the side-view of the Gruen Curvex, is shown in the WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE-W.H. Samelius. entire book. Those who need to identify movements will have The writing of Samelius edited by O.R. Hagans. $30.00 to refer to the Shugart-Engel or Ehrhardt books on American THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT-Henry B. Fried. How to analyze, ad· watches. just, repair the lever and cylinder, and more. $14.95 In the histories of the various companies, Waltham is THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL-Henry B. Fried. The newly expanded and updated Fourth Edition of this popular textbook cm stated as making an 8/0 size movement as early as 1912. A watch repair. $27 .00 careful search through Waltham's factory serialized production book fails to reveal any such movement at all, although a 10 ligne movement was made with a slightly larger plate to ALL BOOKS SHIPPED allow it to compete with the popular-sized Swiss imports popular in WWII. Hamilton's grade 787 and Elgin's grade 681, POSTPAID 682 models 2, 9, and 20 were true 107l ligne movements of the 1940 period, with positive Swiss-type settings and double r------rollered balances. Please make check or money order payable to AWi PRESS. U.S. FUNDS ONLY, PLEASE. A fine 35-page section pictures 98 novelty watches depicting Mickey Mouse, Babe Ruth, Cassidy, and others Send the following book(s)/video(s): (LIST BY TITLE) (such as Spiro Agnew). Hamilton's entry into the electric wrist watch age with their models 500-505 is professionally re corded and the development of the Accutron too is authenti cally related. It must be admitted by this reviewer that so much of the watches passing through his hands as head watchmaker material man came as movements only to match, make, and AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE fit parts, that these seldom were complete watches or con 3700 Harrison Ave., P.0. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 tained dials and hands. Thus, to this reviewer, the watches pictured so clearly in true color were often as new to this viewer and a rather pleasant experience, as it should be to any Address ______reader. City ______Henry B. Fried State ______Zip Code ______J 44 Horological Times/February 1989 Thomas H. White ALMOST TIME AGAIN he months are passing by so quickly that it will not get to the motor: the grill, radiator, carburetor, starter, genera Tbe long before the AWI Board of Directors Meeting tor, hoses, fan, exhaust pipes, water and oil lines, and gas, will be at hand. It seems only a couple of months ago that transmission and motor mounts. Then came the task of re we were at the 1988 Affiliate Chapter Meeting in Cincin moving and cleaning all the pans and covers for the motor. nati! I took the easy way out and bought a motor rebuilt on the in Correspondence from the delegates has been scarce. side, with rings, bearings, rebored piston cylinders, camshaft, However, I have appreciated those of you who have taken the and crankshaft, all like new. When all is reinstalled or replaced, time to write. Although I have answered every one, a few more I will have spent a lot of hours at this task, and am happy this letters at this time would be a "shot in the arm"! doesn't happen very often! Hopefully, the truck should be in We as officers would like to see some new faces when good shape when driving down the highway. the Affiliate Chapter opens at the meeting in 1989, combining Planning is an essential quality in our lives and if first-time delegates along with our veteran core of workers. you plan well or have your priorities in perspective, you will These veteran and first-time delegates will work together and not (or should not) be too frustrated in your life . This is the will be sharing their knowledge. It will be more beneficial time now to appoint your delegate for the 1989 Board of and easier on those in attandance when there are more of us Directors Meeting. You will soon be receiving the form for the present to accomplish our task. In addition, we will receive delegate. Please do not lay it aside as you may forget about valuable skills to help with our daily task at our workbenches. filling it out or appointing your delegate. (You may want to Presently, I am restoring a 1976 Ford 100 pickup refer to the Delegate's Handbook for examples in completing which I call my "workhorse." This is the truck I use to do con the forms and other pertinent delegate information.) struction work, build roads, haul drinking water for the cabin, These next few months will be a pivotal point for the pull a trailer, and haul wood for the fireplace. If and when I 1989 meetings. Make the commitment now to provide your am again able to use this "workhorse" as a tool and can do this Affiliate Chapter Meetings with delegates who are willing to without feeling that I am destroying a new truck or an expen share their expertise! Move forward into the New Year with re sive vehicle, then I can mix concrete or stucco and make a newed conviction, leaving procrastination behind. mess without worrying. I started taking things off the truck to February 1989/Horological Times 45 NEWS .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ... WASHINGTON NEW JERSEY The December meeting of the Washington State Watchmakers Association was held at North Seattle Com munity College on December 16, 1988. The speaker for the evening was Jeff Grieff. He gave tips for repairing Rolex watches and how to use special Rolex tools. W. IOWA The Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Association will hold their Spring Educational Seminar on April 9, 1989 in Des Moines, Iowa at the Park Inn. They have also scheduled their Trade Show & Convention for September 9 and 10, 1989 in Des Moines at the Airport Hilton Inn. For more information on the seminar or trade show and convention contact Nancy J. Henter, executive director, 520 35th Street, Des Moines, Iowa 50312; phone (515) 274- 1597. The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey recently honored Joseph L. Cerullo, chairman of the board (left) and Steven G. Conover, secre tary, with a joint Fellowship Award in recognition of their novel membership drive which increased the organization's members by more than 25%. The presentation was made at the WANJ 49th Anniversary Dinner Dance and was the first time the Fellowship Award has been bestowed in recognition of a jo int effort. DONALD A. RUDLER & ASSOOIATES, INo. t!.difwl f:Pu.&fJ. cf..,...,.IA11la !bo-U di. cR• .U.., Ladies/Gentlemen 1 Wisconsin Horological Society This letter will present the res ult of the recent mail ballot for your organization. We were retained to receive, count and summarize the Annual Convention votes for the period coded with December IS, 1988 postmark. The vote total April 28-30, 1989 was tabulated as follows 1 Midway Motor Lodge - La Crosse, WI Amendments to the Connitution Number of Vote• Approve 92J Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania Disapprove 203 Annual Convention Invalid 33 May 5-7, 1989 Late _l_I Holiday Inn East - Lancaster, PA Total Ballot• Received I, 190 Thank you for the opportunity to serve you. Watchmakers Association of Ohio Annual Convention Very truly youro, July 28-30, 1989 DONALD A. RUDLER & ASSOCIATES, INC. Parke University Hotel - Columbus, OH ~f/~ CHARLES P. LUSHER Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Association Certified Public Accountant Convention and Trade Show CPL/mah September 9-10, 1989 Airport Hilton Inn - Des Moines, IA 46 Horological Times/February 1989 New Products and Literature/News in the Trade KASSOY INTRODUCES FIRST EVER MECHANICAL JEWELER'S MICROSCOPE CLOCK FOR NIGHT VISION A new, compact, 11" high micro Waltham Clock Co., in coopera scope featuring rack and pinion tion with McDonnell Douglas, has focusing and turret mount for developed the first mechanical rapid magnification is now avail clock to be approved for night able from Kassay. Other features vision. The company took its include a 45° inclined binocular basic aircraft clock design and in body, 360° rotating head, two corporated an integral lighting stage clips, top lighting, and 1 OX system that meets strict night and 20X magnification. Optics vision specifications. The ABU- offer crisp images over a wide 43/ A is an ABU-9/A and ABU- field of view. Model M IC415, it 24/ A in configuration and is man retails for $399.00. ufactured in accordance with For more information con MCAIR drawing 74808059-103. Waltham tact Kassay, 28 West 47th St., Order part no. 400225. New York, NY 10036; 1(800)- Waltham Clock Co. offers 4-KASSOY; in NY state call a full line of mechanical clocks 1-212-719-2290. and instrumentation, as well as heavy-duty use by divers and controls and precision compo other sports enthusiasts. nents. Contact: Waltham Clock All Sharp watches carry an Kassey's jeweler's microscope PHONE DIALER WATCH Co., 221 Crescent St., Waltham, exclusive five-year warranty. FROM CASIO (DBA100) MA 02154; (617) 893-4000. For more information, con This new wristwatch is a phone tact Sharp Watches, 484 Sunrise dialer with "two" memories. Casio Highway, Rockville Centre, NY SHARP WATCHES has increased the primary memory 11570; (516) 536-1600. in this data bank watch to include INTRODUCES NEW 100 names and telephone num DIVER'S MODELS bers. The secondary memory al Sharp Watches has introduced lows the user to program in their three new analog quartz diver telephone credit card number. watches retailing from $39.95. Once the user has pressed the The Diver with yellow ring "phone" button on the side of (model 235938, $39.95) can resist the watch, the number on the dis up to 100 feet of pressure and in play will be automatically dialed cludes a quick-set calendar. It also using the OBA 1 OO's phone coup features a professional Jocking ler, after which the user can press ratchet bezel with an easy grip the "card" button and have his knurled design. telephone credit card number The Full-Size Diver (model dialed as well. 277920, $49.95), and Mid-Size In addition to the tele Diver (model 377921, $49.95) in phone dialing capabilities of the clude state-of-the-art black resin watch, it also includes a 24-zone cases made to exacting specifi world time function, daily alarm, cations. Both models resist up to hourly time signals, a schedule 600 feet of pressure and the Full Size Diver model features a cal keeper, and a 12/24 hour format. Casio's phone dialer watch Sharp's diver watches It will be available in March 1989. endar and is specially made for For more information, con tact Casio, Inc., 570 Mt. Pleasant GIA TO HOLD Ave., P.O. Box 7000, Dover, NJ SPRING OPEN HOUSE 07801; (201) 361-5400. The Santa Monica, CA head '••? quarters of the Gemological I nsti VIBROGRAF USA RELEASES tute of America (GIA) will be TWO NEW PRODUCTS open to the public on Sunday, FOR WATCHMAKERS March 12. Joseph Presti, president of Vi "Every spring for five years brograf USA Corp., announced now we've held a free one-day the introduction of two new lecture series, and every year it products for the watchmaker: gets more popular," said GIA The Vibrograf RM-90, a president William E. Boyajian. new automatic heavy-duty watch "We're even getting attendees cleaner. It cleans and dries up to from across the country." six quartz or mechanical watches The sixth annual GIA at one time, either assembled or Spring Open House will feature disassembled in a mesh basket. drawings for prizes and special Variable cleaning is produced by sales in the GIA Bookstore and multi-frequency infrasonics. GIA GEM Instruments Salesroom, The Vibrograf Leak-Con in addition to lecture presenta troller, a self-contained portable tions. It will be held from 12 water resistant tester, is also new. Vibrograf noon to 5 p.m. For more infor It uses no water, and is complete For more information on Cherry Ln., Floral Park, NY mation, call GIA at (800) 421- ly safe for mechanical and quartz these products, contact: Joseph 11001-1696; (516) 437-8700. 7250, ext. 220, or (213) 829- watches. Presti, Vibrograf USA Corp., 504 2991, ext. 220. February 1989/Horological Times 47 Andrew Tisch with Greg Louganis BULOVA SIGNS LOUGANIS Greg Louganis, four-time Olympic gold medalist, will serve as a spokesman for Bulova products, it was recently announced by Bu Iova president Andrew Tisch. Bulova will feature Louganis in its watch and clock advertising and promotion programs; he will also attend various trade functions on behalf of Bulova Corporation. Louganis, who sustained a In making the announce head injury during the 3-meter ment, Mr. Tisch commented: "As springboard preliminaries, rallied Americans, we salute Greg's out to take the gold in the finals. standing achievements during the The following week, he won the 1988 Summer Olympics. As the Olympic gold in the 10-meter official watch supplier to the platform competition. With these United States Olympic Team and double gold medal triumphs, a licensee to the United States Louganis distinguished himself in Olympic Committee in 1988 and Olympic history as the first male in 1992, we're honored to have athlete ever to win all diving Greg represent Bulova-America's gold medals in consecutive Olym Time!" pic Games (1984 and 1988). awarded to Rainer Loewe of stick; discretionary choice of ma Narbolia, Italy. Honorable Men terials with the exception of tion was awarded to Seiko In synthetic enamel. strument, Inc., of Tokyo, Japan. Contestants wishing to en DIAMOND ELEGANCE In Gem Jewelry-The 1988 ter the 1989 Prize of the City of Bulova continues to offer sophisticated elegance in 1989 with these Prize of the City of Geneva was Geneva competition are invited to diamond dial watchmates. Aglow with a diamond at 12 o'clock, awarded to Markus Giovanoli of submit their drawing or sketches each black matte dial is encased in brushed and polished goldtone Lucerne, Switzerland. Honorable by April 28, 1989 to the follow with a matching link bracelet. The watches feature quartz preci Mentions were awarded to Jean ing address: Prize of the City of sion, are water resistant to 3 ATM, and have a scratch resistant Manuel Fernandez of Romorantin, Geneva, Maitre Rene Geney, Dura-Crystal® . Models illustrated are 92F63 (hers), suggested re France, and Stavros Semertzis of Notaire, 4 rue de Rive, 1204 Gen tail price $275.00; and 92R09 (his) suggested retail $295.00. Con Geneva, Switzerland . eva, Switzerland. Drawings and tact the Bulova Corporation, One Bulova Ave., Woodside, NY At its last session, the jury sketches must be submitted on 11377; (718) 204-3300. determined the prescribed themes A4 format (210 by 297 mm) for the two other Prize of the paper, devoid of any mark or in City of Geneva categories, sche dication whatsoever. They must WINNERS OF THE 1988 PRIZE francs for Honorable Mentions) duled for 1989. These are: be accompanied by a letter OF THE CITY OF GENEVA are paid directly to the contest Jewelry: Arm-worn jewelry certifying that they have never The setting of the Villa La Grange ants themselves, not to the com in gold only, without gemstones been executed, sold, or publicly was the venue for the announce mercial firm or manufacturer that or pearls. Enamelwork: Single or displayed. ment of the winners of the 1988 may be sponsoring them. Winning multi-branch enamelled candle- Prize of the City of Geneva and entries are determined in a two the attendant prize award cere stage process: the jury makes an mony. This year, the Prize's in initial selection on the basis of ternational jury h;id to select the drawings or sketches which are winning entries in the Watchmak then executed to provide a con ing and Gem Jewelry categories, crete basis for the final selection. whose themes were as follows: Competitors are guaranteed com Watchmaking: Pocket watch plete anonymity until the jury in running order, for men and has reached a decision. The Prize's women , with watch holder. Me four categories are presented by chanical or electronic movement. twos in alternating years: Watch Discretionary choice of materials making and Gem Jewelry one with the exception of plastics year; Jewelry and Enamelwork and synthetics. the next. Gem Jewelry: Jewelry piece At its first meeting, in May consisting of one or more ele of this year, the jury selected 23 ments designed to be worn in at of the 206 drawings entered by least two different ways. To be 114 contestants from 18 coun made of precious metal, with tries: 11 in Watchmaking, and 12 precious and/or colored stones, in Gem Jewelry. These projects pearls optional. Maximum overall were then executed in time for In the Watchmaking category, the In the Gem Jewelry category, the dimensions: 3 x 3 cm. the jury to determine this year's 1988 Prize of the City of Geneva 1988 Prize of the City of Geneva winners at its session held on was awarded to Rainer Loewe of was awarded to Markus G iovanoli The Prize of the City of Narbolia, Italy. His silver and of Lucerne, Switzerland. The two Geneva is traditionally open to December 1, 1988. yellow gold pocket watch fea topmost elements of this brush contestants from all over the The winners of this year's tures a pyramidal crystal, while its finished yellow and white gold world. Awards (10,000 Swiss Prize are: Watchmaking-The 1988 highly original holder is made of brooch are set with diamonds and cut and polished granite. can be worn independently as ear francs for Prizes, 2,500 Swiss Prize of the City of Geneva was clips. 48 Horologi,cal Times/February 1989 Classified Ads REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per wcrd in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy on July 1st.) HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 (513) 661-3838 TRADE WATCHMAKERS: Full service on Quartz, Automatic, Rolex, Pocket Watches, ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE Tradesman WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: Retrofitting, & etc. 7 to 10 day service, work * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP guaranteed, 40 years experience. K & L Service, "TICK-0-PRINT/L&R 413 Commercial St., Emporia, KS 66801; WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT TRADE WATCH REPAIR - Quartz, Accu (316) 342-8479. JACK PHILLIPS • ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE trons, Pocket Watches. Work guaranteed. 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 Professional service, personalized benefits. Marc H. Head, 11 lB Lawrence St., Penn Do You Repair Clocks?. Yan, NY 14527; (315) 5 36-0558. NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM FITTED to Diamond. Gold, Antique, Senti POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, FREE DELIVERY-FAST SERVICE ~~Wiilr mental Watches and Pocket-all sizes. Rolex, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Timesavers • 312-658-2266 Omega, Longines, LeCoultre, Girard Perregaux, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Box469 •Algonquin. IL60102 Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton. Benton, IL 62812; phone: (618) 439-6995 . Send $2.00 to receive our new cotalog. Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion. ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 Presidio Place. Buffalo, New York 14221 ; (716) 633-6138. Repair and restore New York self-winding CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, clocks, battery operated. Wagner Clock Repair, material and tools. Custom made to order or 1900 Lake, Suite 5, Dyer, IN 46311; (219) repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, 865-3160. $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, FINEST QUALITY,. quantity works wekome. Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.O. Box TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101. (206) 623-2452 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON 532-3166. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865; CALL (814) 692-2285 . CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches. CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and Send sample for estimate. NIEGELS HORO pinions. Module 0. 2 to 1.0. Constant profile LOGY, Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe producing traditional square bottomed teeth, Drive, Spirit Lake, ID 83869. SASE, or call 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven (208) 623-4330. sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). "Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt GOLDEN K. JEWELRY TRADE WORK. M42 High Speed Steel. and heat treated under Professional Watchmaker and Jeweler. *Quartz, . - vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and Accutron, Digital, Pocket, and Mechanical, 4 . CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices and Watches Repaired. *Ring Sizing, all Soldering, ! order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), all Stone Setting, and all Jewelers Repaired. Ltd .. Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake BEFORE AFTER If Watchmaker and Jeweler Cannot Fix, YES house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, We Can Fix. 675 W. Peachtree St., N.E., Box 27, Quartz Conversions England. Atlanta, GA 30308; Phone (404) 881-0227. Diamond Dial Conversions Emblem & Name Personalization PRECISION TIME-TECH I SL·rvicl' :rnd re,lnralinn of Koln.• Piagl'f. PJIL'k Philippi..•. CLOCK WHEEL AND Write for Brochures l Vadteror1·Co11sla11ti11. ,\ ntiqln' JH1l·ki..•1 \\ alt.:lil'S a spl·cialty. I 5,, is<;-lrni11ed ma..;h:r \\;1td1makl·r. kolL·., nr1it'il•LI. Cuslom PINION CUTTING INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO. INC. 1 p:ir! 111ar1ufat.:t11re. L'\pl· GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE For Sale WATCHMAKING 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 EQUIPMENT AND G-S PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HAL CRYSTALS FOR SALE: LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL L& R TEMPO 400 Cleaning QUARTZ-ELECTRONIC-CIRCUIT BOARDS CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRO Machine ...... $1000 MAINSPRINGS-SUSPENSIONS SPRINGS and CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL MOVEMENTS, ETC. Save time, money, and work re-covering VIBROGRAF VC 10 Cleaning bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor Machine ...... $1000 mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: L& R TC 47 A Tickoprint Compact Moseley lathe with rest and tailstock, $175.00. JANDi GOGGIN Timing Machine w/MU35 Have second Moseley tailstock, $75.00. A.J. Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Microphone ...... $750 Strobel, 4841 Melody Lane, Bartlesville, OK 74006. L&R Electronic Oemagnitizers-$25 TIMER TICK A PRINT T47 A, Timer (drum) G-S Crystals 25 C System-$750 G-S Crystals C System-$750 Retrofitting material, Retro-Quick, new ma Watchmaster, L&R Varimatic (ultrasonic) clean 25 terial for filling caseback simply and easily. No ing machine, lathes · Moseley & Peerless, Bulova G-S Crystals: liquids, moisture or shrinking. $29.95 plus test set & microscope, two staking sets, watch Complete ET, AT, TT, DT, KT, $2.00 shipping. H.R. Ferguson, 4443 Janice makers bench, GS crystal system, torch, cabi Marie Blvd., Columbus, OH 43207. nets, misc. hand tools, wrist & pocket watches etc. sets-~ advertised prices for parts. Make offer. (615) 763-2897. All items are slightly used but in very good condition. Call immedia tely for information. We only have --~~--'!. <:?'tle·~~~-- CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec a limited supply: U"ea 1Patclt '11tcve111e11u tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer. 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 Can be used on almost any clock with mechani 1-404-457-9686 cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and Mr. Watchmaker - If you have a prob Antique Watch Co. of Atlanta lem finding parts for older watches, small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver 2075 Savoy Drive badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can we may be able to help you. We have Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, Atlanta, GA 30341 lots of movements for parts at reason CA 92138. able prices. Some suitable for replace ment. If not satisfactory you may re- turn. LEATHER STRAPS - $1.00 each, 3 styles. WATCH REPAIR TOOLS AND PARTS. Send $3.75 for samples or write for order Phone{301)463-6595 JOHNNY PRAY, BOX 806, ALAMO, TX blank to FLORO DISTRIBUTOR, 12-08 78516. 151 PL, Whitestone, NY 11357. Watch Rate Recorder, Vibrograf B200A, Help Wanted TOSHIBA $600.00. Superior Buffer, double spindle, filter, and exhaust fan, $200.00. Ned R. Stewart; WATCH BATTERY phone (817) 694-5915. WANTED: Watchmaker for full time on TERRITORIES premises position. Antiques to quartz, clock repair a plus. Salary plus benefits. Resume to: AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed A. Krautheim Jewelers, P.O. Box 719, Mus lowest prices-as low as $2 .30. 2-yr. guarantee. kegon, MI 49443. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Hall 5 on tearstrips & Clock Shop. 1512 Central Ave. , Charlotte. WATCHMAKER AND CLOCKMAKER needed NC 28205. for busy wholesale and retail repair business. OEM trays Experience required. Send resume to Carlos Ynugai, 416 Main St., Room 816, Peoria, IL 61602. - Silver Oxide BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC - Lithium H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER-Busy South Florida clock store. Send resume and address DISTRIBUTORS ONLY! inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St., Suppliers for mechanical watch N. Miami Beach, FL 33162. parts. Hard-to-get GLASS crystals Write on your letterhead for hunting and open face pocket watches. Same day service. for details WATCHMAKER WANTED - For national Nationwide Watts 1-800-777-8962 watch repair center. Located in Chicago TOSHIBA WATCH BATTERY THE BUTTNER COMP ANY, INC. suburb. Good starting rate and benefits. Call P.O. Box 19 Karl Buttner, CMW Harry Wilkinson, (312) 448-3984, or write 2512 San Mateo Place NE to: True Run Service Center, 10500 South Congers, NY 10920 Albuquerque, NM 87110 "A watchmaker for the watchmakers" west Hwy., Chicago Ridge, IL 60415. SO Horological Times/February 1989 Watches Wanted Collector need$: Patek l'hilippe, C.trt fer, Rolex Books Va<:heron &. Constantin, E. HowatCalendars, Curvexes, Repeaters, Diamond Dials, Enamels, WANTED Railroads, Military, Multi-O>lors, Keywind.5, Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools AIRCRAFT CLOCKS OR PARTS WANTED Hunting Case>, Automatons, etc. Equipment, material and crystal systems, FOR SALVAGE. BOISE PILOT SHOP, 3647 benches, cabinets, old broken or un When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch RICKENBACKER, BOISE, ID 83705. claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch factory pictures, displays or signs. Need G.F. 14K/18K Hamilton electric, Accu Call Us Toll Frre 1 -800-842-862 5 tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono Old wristwatches desperately needed. Illinois, graph, Lecoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A. In Texas 1-214-902-0664 sterling watches, unusual Hamiltons, digitals, Lange watches, I RV BARD. Always prompt immediate payment! Rolex, Patek, chronographs, hinged Jug, and es pecially military . Parts, dials, movements also. AVON MET AL SERVICE, LTD. Wingate's Quality Watches Top prices paid . Also loans on watches. Call P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933 P.O. Box 59760 Dallas, Texas 75229-1760 for details. Jewelers' Row Money Loan, 111 Milwaukee, WI 53217 S. 8th St., Phila., PA 19106; 1(800) LOANS-88. Your AWi membership card signifies that you AMalCAN wAJCHMHllS OOJITUTI are entitled to the many services offered by your 1988 association. However, we must have the correct information from your card to be able to serve Th.is is tu Certify that you most efficiently. JOSH A. DOE 000 SMITH ST. JIOIBERE, OH 12345 This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your membership card. Always use your AWi mem bership number when corresponding or order Membership ing from A WI. Number Certification Type of Number Certification Febrnary 1989/Horological Times 51 Dates to Remember Ad Index FEBRUARY 1989 APRIL 1989 American Perfit ...... _ ...... 15 5-8-Jewelers of America International Spring 12-19-17th European Watch, Clock and Jew Show; New York Hilton and Sheraton ellery Fair (Basel '89); Basel, Switzer Borel...... 9 Centre hotels; New York, NY; (212) 489- land. 0023. Bulova ...... 10 28-30-Wisconsin Horological Society Annual Butler, James ...... 29 10-13-California Jewelers Association Conven Convention; Midway Motor Lodge; La tion; Moscone Center; San Francisco, CA; Crosse, WI. (213) 628-3171. Cas-Ker . .... _ .. . .inside back cover MAY 1989 10-14-INHORGENTA 89, Munich Trade Fair Charles Cleves ...... 19 Centre; Munich, West Germany. For more 5-7-Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania information contact Gerald G. Kallman, Annual Convention; Holiday Inn East; Five Maple Court, Ridgewood, NJ 07450. Lancaster, PA. Esslinger ...... inside front cover Phone (201) 652-7070. JUNE 1989 European Watch, Clock & Jewelry Fair .... 5 12-AWl's First Regional Seminar; Fountains Suite Hotel, 1-17 at Greenway Road, 20-22-Research and Education Council Annual 2577 West Greenway Road, Phoenix, AZ. Meeting; Radisson Inn, located at Greater Gem City College ...... 29 (602) 375-1777; outside Arizona (800) Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi for in 237-9426. formation. Innovative Electronics ...... 27 24-25-Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Asso 23-AWI Annual Affiliate Chapter Meeting; ciation Annual Convention; Radisson Radisson Inn; Greater Cincinnati Air South Hotel; Bloomington, MN. For port. Contact AWi for information. Jewelmont Corp ...... 27 more information call (612) 925-4887. 24-25-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meet JIDA ...... 17 MARCH 1989 ing; Radisson Inn; Greater Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi for information. 5-Florida State Watchmakers Association, Inc. S. La Rose ...... 21 All Day Seminar and Lunch; Comfort JULY 1989 Livesay's ...... 25 Suites Airport Hotel, 1808 Australian Avenue S., West Palm Beach, FL. Phone 15-16-8th Annual Indiana Jewelry and Watch (407) 689-6888. For more information Trade Show; 500 Ballroom of the Down Maxell ...... 3 write: FSWA, 589 Pine Street NW, Port town Indianapolis Convention Center & Charlotte, FL 33952. Hoosier Dome and New Westin Hotel. M.J. Watch Repair ...... 29 Information: Normagene Murray, (317) 8-12-Jewelry Industry Distributors Association 631-8124; 251 N. Capitol, Ste. 1792, (JIDA)/American Jewelry Marketing As P.O. Box 2104, Indianapolis, IN 46204 Panasonic ...... 11 sociation (AJDA) Co-Conventions; Sad dlebrook Golf & Tennis Resort; Tampa Bay, FL. 28-30-Watchmakers Association of Ohio An Ray Gaber ...... 13 nual Convention; Parke University Hotel; 12-Sixth Annual Spring Open House of the Columbus, OH. Gemological Institute of America (GIA) ; Seiko ...... outside back cover Santa Monica, CA; 12 noon-5 p.m. Open SEPTEMBER 1989 to the public. For more information, Swigart ...... 6 call GIA at (800) 421-7250, ext. 220; or 9-10-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Asso (213) 829-2991, ext. 220. ciation Convention and Trade Show; Airport Hilton Inn; Des Moines, IA. Toledo Jewelers ...... 12 Tumi Watch Co ...... 25 Twin City Supply . . . . . 23 Vibrograf USA ...... 19 Zantech, Inc ...... 7 52 Horological Times/February 1989 FILLER ::~:I:~:: FOR 'REri.t'@F:tTTfNG. ,.QOAR!fi····MOV,EMENTS , SPEEDI', •.•:•.•:' .·..... ~ftF... -.·:. '. isusetl, ' ... , to"' ·: filiVi: ,9·1a,' )i··., 1n,;: cas~~ .. ~- ...... · · *h~' . ' : : :· ,i-e'tr .oh . Hin. , g· movemefitS.. ' ...... ~ Hase' anq ditaly$t. are 'pufty~like maJe.rials whith cute in 5 to 7 inirt'ute5. toj1flexible substance that cart easfltbe-'ttirnmed Witli·a knife/The ihixed maleria1 is · . j:m~hed furo, c\_,-~e' bad<· atta :astrap moyetf\e:ni' ' i~j5tj$.hed in'to place where the new moverr\enf will fit., ' ' ' ' .... :._'·' ' ' : : · '· .. : .Kit ihdudes 1po., grAfn.s'each of ba.$e. aftd caJ_alY.~t, *1fXirig scoop!( and ITT$tructions. ?r9Vi5J~~ ; ~?l:'!gh ~ateriaJ fot 25 f9 50 movements. '. ·. SP:e,EDI-FTI' I(it #6_5Q.001.'!:i' $22.SQ "~'' \ ·:.. ·.:... =', .. _ .._ ... --;;,__ .. ,_:, ~, .. '"'.'·~,'' ~ . ~· '.. New qµattz move·· ··- ' ' .. . ' · ' ment fits into ·· ...... __ ...... ~~~' .•:- ... fmpre5si6h mdde .•...... by a scrap movement of the same size using ',. SPEED I-FIT. : ~ .Imitati~n - s'ei1(b Div~ris $trap.0 Hn purcilase ~----~· of tne Speedi-Fit.Kit>Qffer expires 3/10/89. ' GENEVA"- -~ ,If' QUARTZ ' I I \ CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-543-0408 OHIO 1-800-582-8027. $15 MINIMUM WATS ORDER INFORMATION & INQUIRIES 513-241-7073 2121 SPRING GROVE AVE. CINCINNATI, OH 45214 Cas-~&[f(O. Now every piece of Seiko data you need can be at your fingertips. Each standard size microfiche card contains as much as 390 BW' x 11" catalog pages. Introducing the comprehensive Seiko Microfiche System. Get all the information you want, when you want it, fast. The lightweight Seiko Microfiche System conveniently saves you time, space, and money. Here's the kind of information it provides. Simply. Quickly. Quartz Casing Parts List: includes all casing part numbers for Seiko Quartz watches referenced by case number. Quartz Movement Parts List: contains all movement part numbers for Seiko Quartz watches referenced by calibre number, with pictures of the parts. Master Band Cross Reference: this list, never before available, provides you with the band ---~~ · number for all Seiko watches by both case number reference and model number reference. Each microfiche card grid is titled and alphanumerically indexed for fast, easy reference. And all Seiko microfiche documents are scaled to 48x magnification, compatible with just about any standard microfiche reader. Seiko Fiche $42.00 Pulsar - Lorus Fiche $17.50 Seiko-Pulsar-Lorus Fiche $59.50 The current Seiko Microfiche System only weighs about three ounces. By comparison, the same information in hard copy version, if available, would weigh over 35 pounds and cost hundreds of dollars. The Seiko Microfiche System is the better way to put the information you need at your fingertips. Order through the Seiko Service Planning 1111 MacArthur Boulevard, Mahwah, NJ 07430 (201) 529-3311 SEIKO Also available, while supplies last, are free Seiko Battery Replacement MAN INVENTED TIME. 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