Features 17 10 STEPS to a PERFECT PAINT JOB Columns Often the Only Solution to Repair Dull and 11 ELECTRONICS Faded Gelcoat on an Older Fiberglass Boat Is to Paint It

– 2002 issue #2 – Features 17 10 STEPS TO A PERFECT PAINT JOB Columns Often the only solution to repair dull and 11 ELECTRONICS faded gelcoat on an older fiberglass boat is to paint it. While you can do this yourself, a The Weak Link: Fuses and circuit breakers prevent too much amperage from professional touch guarantees spectacular traveling through a wire, building heat results. through resistance that may damage electri- By Nick Bailey cal and electronic equipment, and more important, cause an electrical fire. Here’s how to properly install adequately sized cir- 27 CORROSION 101 cuit protection devices. — By Kevin Jeffrey This segment in our corrosion series looks at stain- 21 PROJECTS less steel, an alloy that, contrary to popular belief, Need More Gauges?; Happiness Is Fewer does rust under certain conditions, sometimes to Holes; Anchor Locker Ventilation; Oil Pump the point of total failure. Storage. By Susan Canfield 34 SAILBOAT RIGGING Don’t Be Foiled By Foils: 30 THRUSTER FAQ Centerboards, swing or lifting keels are often overlooked components on sailboats. Some things you should know about Carefree operation requires this equipment choosing, installing, operating and be inspected and maintained during every maintaining bow and stern thrusters. haulout. Here’s how to remove, repair and reinstall. — By Nick Bailey 47 POWERBOAT RIGGING 39 BUYING RIGHT Stern Drive Alignment: The A Surveyor’s Perspective. There are some engine, transom assembly and sterndrive of your engine must be in perfect alignment to great buys on used boats if you know what to prevent major engine damage. To align look for. A marine surveyor explains how to these components as part of your annual evaluate a boat’s systems and performance maintenance, you’ll need a custom tool, before making a purchase offer. service manual and some mechanical By Susan Canfield know-how. — By Harry Swieca 56 GOOD BOATKEEPING More Duck Foil; Rail Cushion; Barrel 45 REPAIR STATEGIES Shower. — By David & Zora Aiken Not just for the surveyor anymore, find out how a $250 tool can save Departments your boat. 2 Currents By Nick Bailey 6 Talkback Q&A Opt for Marine Oil; As the Juice Flows; A 50 A BARGAIN AT ANY PRICE Reason to Clean; Which Outboard Oil is Best?; Grounds for Underwater Metal Here’s how one intrepid DIYer with vision and Corrosion; Rudderpost Fix; Painting Trim determination transformed the hull and deck Tabs; Boat Ergonomics; Leaking Deck Joint; of a mid-80s production boat. Includes mold- Rudder Alignment building techniques, gelcoat application and 10 Tech Tips fiberglass resin laminating.

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www.diy-boat.com DIY boat owner 2002- #2 1 Pass the Envelope Please… CURRENTS Further to our answer to DIY reader [ Edited by Jan Mundy ] Rob Weien’s question on our Technical Helpline (see Talkback col- Auto Versus Marine Parts umn, “Grounds for Underwater DIY reader Al Deaver called us Metal Corrosion” on page 7), we regarding the article titled, “Extreme received his response. “Wow! What Power Boost” in DIY 2002-#1 issue. a thorough analysis and spot-on also potted in resin to prevent vibra- Deaver was concerned about the advice. Taking your suggestion, I tion damage. Both units are effec- installation of the automotive version employed a professional to inspect tively sealed against any spark emis- of the Multiple Spark Discharge the boat. He tested everything with sion, except the wiring path. The (MSD) as pictured on page 46 and a meter and found no large current 6M-2 unit also has watertight con- to the right. He pointed out that the flow nor any meaningful differences nectors, but since I installed my unit unit in this installation is not the between the plate and adjacent met- to ABYC standards using proper spark (ignition)-protected marine ver- als (bronze thru-hulls). I’ve never had marine tinned-copper connectors sion and a conflict with the ABYC such a prompt and well-researched and adhesive-lined, heat-shrink tub- standard requirements for ignition reply from a magazine at any time ing, corroded connections are not protected electrical equipment in cer- on any subject.” an issue. It’s unlikely a spark could tain marine applications. He was cause any issues with the riser, as How to Build Fiberglass also worried about its proximity to the standard requiring ignition pro- Components the exhaust riser. The author, Dwight tected components is intended to I’m hoping to rebuild the engine box Powell, contacted Autotronic deal with a spark igniting volatile and several floor hatches on my Controls in El Paso, Texas, the MSD vapors, not with heat sources. If the 7.6m (25') cruiser. I would like to manufacturer, for clarification. heat riser were to burst, I’m confi- build them out of gelcoat and fiber- Dwight’s reply follows. dent that the MSD 6A’s water resis- glass. Any information that might The reader is correct. I recommend tancy would be adequate. As for guide me on my way would be all future installers use the MSD 6M- onboard vibration, it’s no more, and greatly appreciated. 2 marine unit. Both the 6A (auto probably less, than most vehicles Chris Sines, “Vitalsines,” Cape May, New model) and 6M-2 (marine model) traveling on a roadway. Were my Jersey boat in saltwater and/or a perfor- are identical in performance and Turn to “A Bargain at Any Price,” on mance boat, I would definitely use basic construction. The 6A unit is page 50 for details on building and the marine model. [Ed: Product test- considered water or splash resistant, prepping the molds, applying gel- ing for compliance with the perfor- while the 6M-2 unit is considered coat and laminating the glass mat mance requirements of a standard, water or immersion proof and is and woven roving. such as ABYC, are performed by an independent laboratory, such as Flush Appeal STORM TRACKING Underwriters Laboratories (UL). This I read the article titled “Intelligent I always believed that the number of seconds is the final consumer assurance of Sanitation” in DIY 2002-#1 issue that pass between the lightning flash and the the product’s safety in a marine with interest. I have heard that the thunderclap gives the distance to the lightning. application. The dynamics of vibra- Lectra/San takes several minutes to According to Ewen Thompson, a lightning special- tion and water exposure in the run through its treatment cycle. Can ist with the University of Florida, the actual cal- marine environment extend well the toilet be used during this cycle? culation is to divide the time by five. If the thun- beyond those experienced in an If it can be used consecutively (I fre- der starts 20 seconds after you see the flash, the automotive application. In the case quently sail with a boat full of lightning is 6.4km (4 miles) away. A better rule of the MSD 6M-2 unit, the manufac- teenagers) what is the capacity of of thumb is that, if you hear thunder, you are turer should state whether the prod- this unit? Once it reaches capacity, within range of a strike. — JM uct meets all applicable ABYC stan- does the sewage simply back up in dards, and that is what the con- the discharge line then possibly into sumer should seek when making the toilet? decisions about marine equipment Ted Hugger via e-mail purchases. Where spark and electrical integrity in wet applications is at According to Raritan, every time the stake on a boat, nothing less should toilet is flushed, the Lectra/San runs be accepted.] (continued on page 4)

2 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 THEFT HAPPENS It appears we are losing the battle against recurrent outboard theft. Having lost three engines in 8 years, and absorbing an increase in our insurance policy deductible, we now keep our outboard in locked “dry” storage until needed. Our first engine was locked to the kicker bracket with a heavy-duty chain, but it was easily cut and the engine lifted off the transom. Ditto on the second occur- rence. Thieves trying for the third engine couldn’t remove the Fulton lock that covered the motor’s hold-down clamps, so they cut the chains holding the boat to the dock and floated (we suspect towed) it away. A few days later, the boat showed up, sans engine, but with what remained of the Fulton lock lying in the bilge. Examination of the lock showed it had been pried open (see photo below), until the threaded barrel-style lock mechanism snapped, revealing the weak link in an otherwise well-engineered device. While we realize there is no 100% theft proof lock, the Fulton lock did hinder the process. This was not a quick-and-easy job. Just consider the logistics of first beaching the boat, then getting a pry bar under the lock from inside the cockpit, with a scant 30.5cm (12") clearance to the floor, and bending the lock housing until it breaks. We wanted a professional opinion, so we contacted the manufacturer who agreed to evaluate our damaged lock. Since purchasing our lock, Fulton had redesigned the locking mechanism, available on 2000 and newer models. Engineers pry-tested the new lock to duplicate the condition of our damaged lock. Using a 91cm (3') wrecking bar placed in the slot between the two halves, they were able to bend the new model 100% further than our damaged unit before it failed. If you know of other theft-deterrent measures, we’d really like to hear about them.

Fulton Outboard MotorLok has a locking mechanism on the bottom.

(top) Damaged motor lock was pried apart until the threaded barrel-style lock snapped. Though both sides were pried open, Fulton engineers suggested that an upward force on the short side (right) is what likely snapped the lock. (bottom) New model with redesigned snap-together locking mechanism took twice as much force to cause it to fail as our damaged unit.

A battery-operated alarm attached to an outboard sounds mega-decibels when the cord is cut, which hopefully sidetracks an unwary thief, especially if someone is listen- ing and reacts quickly.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 3 Currents It’s not recommended to use formula- tions containing silicone compounds, Masthead such as Armor All, on inflatables as for two minutes to grind up the they make adding accessories or sewage and treat it. After a half doing repairs all but impossible. dozen flushes or so the unit is full. At Petroleum-based protectants are just that point, with every flush, the unit as damaging as they can damage Publisher & Editor: Jan Mundy pushes the treated sewage out the seams and age the fabric prema- VP Sales & Marketing: Steve Kalman “exhaust,” either overboard, as per- turely. We don’t know the chemical Designer & Webmaster: Guy Drinkwalter mitted in a discharge zone, or into a composition of 303, and the precise Circulation: Britton Hardy holding tank. formula of 303 is proprietary infor- Copy Editing: The Wordsmith Surfing with DIY mation. The manufacturer suggested Cover design: by Guy Drinkwalter we contact B&A Distributing, a large Please advise me when the time Contributors: David & Zora Aiken, Steve Auger, supplier of inflatable rafts in Nick Bailey, Susan Canfield, Larry Douglas, Robert comes to renew my DIY Ezine sub- Hess, Kevin Jeffrey, Pat Kearns, John Payne, Portland, Oregon with multiple scription. I really like downloading Wayne Redditt, Paul & Sheryl Shard repair centers on the West Coast. just the articles I want to print out at DIY boat owner™ and The Marine Maintenance This firm has been recommending a given time. This saves a lot of Magazine™ are registered trademarks of JM 303 to its customers since the late- Publishing. DIY boat owner is published quarterly paper storage. I have no intention of by JM Publishing. ISSN 1201-5598 80s after months of extensive test- going back to your “paper” maga- While all precautions have been taken to ensure ing. “This is a ‘for-real’ product,” zine. accuracy and safety in the execution of articles, says owner Dan Baxter who after plans and illustrations in this magazine, the pub- Gene DiCrecchio, East Lansdowne, lisher accepts no responsibility for accidents, mate- Pennsylvania 30 years is now retired. “This water- rial losses or injuries resulting from the use of infor- based protectant saved my cus- mation supplied in these articles, plans or illustra- More Kudos tions. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine tomers thousands of dollars in may be reprinted or used without the express writ- My husband, Jim, and I thoroughly replacement and repair costs,” con- ten consent of the publisher. enjoy DIY magazine. We’re going tinues Baxter. “It does the job of pro- to be adding it to our website where tecting inflatable materials and does we recommend various books, peri- so without affecting the material, odicals, etc. We’ve also just submit- causing repair problems or a loss in ted our subscription request. Keep bonding strength.” Baxter recom- up the great work! mends applying 303 at least three Debra Cantrell, author of “Changing Course: times per season or every 30 days AWomen’s Guide to Choosing the Cruising when used in the sun. “It doesn’t Life.” gradually diminish, instead it works Why not 303? at 100% for 30 days then it’s As a manufacture’s rep of chemicals gone.” If 303 does contain silicone, that include marine maintenance then it obviously contains a category products, I have seen and read your of silicone that has qualities that are magazine from time to time as I neither equal to, nor perform the travel around the U.S. calling on same as, “generic” silicone prod- marine stores. DIY contains a lot of ucts. useful information. Recently, I was WINNERS OF DIY DRAW disappointed by misinformation in Winner’s of DIY’s Product DIY regarding the use of chemicals Information Card in your maintenance articles. This Giveaway from the inaccurate information is found in 2001-#4 issue are: “All About Inflatables,” in DIY 2001- Brian Wood, #1. Howard Shure of Airworks Newcastle Upon states: “The only UV protectant rec- Tyme, UK; Rob Linehan, Punta ommended is non-silicone based Gorda, Florida; and Derek Austin, 303 Protectant.” This is absolutely Victoria, British Columbia. All untrue! In fact 303’s main ingredient received a Vetus Fan 12. To enter to is silicone. At what length did you win this issue’s giveaway, log onto go to ensure that this is fact? DIY ONLINE at www.diy-boat.com Richard Malland via email and click on “Product Info.”

4 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 other place onboard that requires a COMPASS FAQ tight seal, check out the Trim-Lok Q: What is the average longevity of a compass? temperature increase. It’s important to keep in website at www.trimlok.com. The mind that there is a reason why your compass has site’s catalog format lets you view A: Temperature extremes and UV exposure slowly acquired a bubble, and the cause should be cor- profiles, dimensions and specs on cause hardening of O-rings, discoloration of the rected first (see below for possible causes) before myriad rubber trim products. For the compass dampening fluid and clouding of the dial. refilling. non-web browsers, call the company Plastic domes may develop crazing after such expo- Q: at 888/847-6565 for a catalog. sures. I have seen 30-year-old compasses in good What causes my compass to loose fluid? The company apparently accepts working condition because they were protected A: A crazed dome that has cracked completely small order quantities. from vibration, UV and temperature extremes. through to the inside, a failed diaphragm, a bezel Q: How often do I need to adjust my compass? O-ring that has lost resiliency or dried from age, or CORRECTION: a failed filler plug or its O-ring. Often the leak is A: There is no established schedule for this. Some slow enough that the lost fluid evaporates before a There is a procedure error in the magnetic fields are subject to considerable change wet surface may reveal the source. article titled, “Drive Train Tune-up,” without necessarily adding or removing equipment Q: in DIY 2002-#1 issue. Page 31, sec- having magnetic components. If considerable devi- What kind of liquid do I use to refill the com- ond paragraph, states: “Remove the ation (greater than 20°) existed prior to the previ- pass, and how do I fill it? short piece of hose that attaches the ous adjustment of the compass, it’s prudent to at A: Some small, expensive compasses are hermeti- stuffing box to the shaft log.” This is least swing ship at the beginning of every season cally sealed, so they cannot be filled or repaired. incorrect. When the builder aligns or once a year. Such a condition would suggest the Not all refillable compasses use the same dampen- the shaft, a laser or a string line is proximity to the compass of magnetic equipment ing fluid, which may range from silicone to petro- used to locate all the parts. The only whose magnetic field is subject to variance. Should leum base. Compass manufacturers select a liquid time you need to remove the hose is you detect error in excess of 10°, compass period that is compatible with the O-rings, diaphragms and to replace it. A rough alignment is and sensitivity will not be consistent on all head- internal finishes. The fluid must be introduced done when the boat is on land. The ings. It’s advisable to adjust the compass in this under immaculate conditions, and after filling the final alignment is made after launch- case. For error less than 10°, it depends what men- compass, a vacuum pump is necessary to extract ing. tal gymnastics you are willing to endure in apply- residual air from the liquid. I strongly recommend ing and interpolating deviation. A compass with that you seek the expertise of a manufacturer- deviation will not have the same error value or approved service facility. sign on all headings unless its only source of error — Robert Hempstead is misalignment. [Ed: See DIY 2001-#2 issue’s “Compass Points” for Q: What causes a bubble in my compass? complete details on compass selection, installation, A: Air exists in all fluids. Some fluids may become adjustment and calibration.] air saturated when introduced under pressure, such as by a pump or syringe. When it’s cold, liquid in the compass may be under slight negative pressure due to contraction. This condition could cause air in the liquid to be extracted and form a bubble in the top of the dome, only to be forced back into the liquid as the compass is warmed by sunlight or a SPARE PARTS Gasket Odds When you are in need of a replace- Electronics Bits ment gasket for hatches, windows, A.W. Marine in the UK has pur- cockpit lockers, iceboxes or any chased all spares and main line products of Stowe Marine from Simrad. It can service and supply most parts for Navigator, Micro, Dataline and IS11 ranges, masthead units and transducers. More information is found at www.awmarine. com or email to [email protected].

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 5 switch that is sticking in the “On” A: Both AC and DC equipment ALK BACK position, fix that now. While many T Q&A commonly found on boats can be Help line 1-888-658-2628 bilge pumps are capable of running drawing current even when turned for some time without pumping off. A common example is most AC- water, this is unhealthy for the motor Opt for Marine Oil powered stereo and TV equipment and will eventually cause the pump that includes a remote control. If the Q: I have heard rumors that you to fail, and you may not realize that equipment was truly off, the remote should never put automotive oil in a until you need it. When you finish could not turn it on. The same thing marine engine. Could you clarify with the meter, be sure you reconfig- goes for many DC-powered marine this? I have been running Mobil 1 ure it for volts, moving the test lead electronic devices that remain in synthetic oil in my sterndrive for plugs into the proper holes. If you standby mode when turned off. The years. Mark Cavanaugh, Eastlake, Ohio don’t, the next time you use it to only way to be sure they are off is to measure DC volts, you’ll blow the interrupt the battery power with an A: Automotive oils are designed for internal fuse! external switch. Most products that use in engines that don’t run at or — Larry Douglas use a membrane keypad-based near wide-open throttle (WOT) and on/off switch fall into this category. don’t have the load or stress factors A Reason to Clean To determine what is causing the that a marine engine endures. If Q: While troubleshooting an elec- unwanted current draw, you must your marine engine ever overheats, begin at the battery and electrically trical problem, I discovered there is or is required to run at WOT while trace the various circuits until you voltage flow between the positive you try to outrun a thunderstorm, the find the problem. First, turn off all terminal of each battery and the automotive oils may cause damage DC circuit breakers and/or remove metal tie-down rod on the battery due to a shear point that is lower fuses on circuits that are connected hold-down bracket. This rod con- than the recommended oils. Your to that battery. Connect a digital nects at the bottom by a steel half motor oil may be the difference multimeter (DMM) configured for the ring screwed into the fiberglass between making it to a safe harbor highest available DC current (amps) deck. I checked underneath and or losing your engine power at a mode in series with the positive ter- there are no screws or wires in this critical time. Synthetic oil is great for minal of the battery. In other words, area. The top of the metal tie-down cold winter starts but when was the disconnect the positive wire from the rod connects to a metal bracket that last time you went boating at –35°C battery and put one DMM lead on it reaches across the battery case. My (-30°F). Mercury issued a service and the other on the positive battery other battery has a plastic crossbar. bulletin in 1997 indicating that syn- terminal. If there are no loads con- Both have about 6 volts across the thetic oil, multi-grade oils, oils with nected, the current on the DMM positive post to the metal tie- solid additives and non-detergent should be zero. Safety dictates that, down/deck connection. There is no oils are not recommended for before you make this test, be voltage leak from the positive termi- MerCruiser products (unless other- absolutely certain that the DMM has nal to case. Is this a normal occur- wise stated in your owner’s manual fuse protection on this range. If not, rence? for high-performance products). Stick put a fast-blow fuse sized at or Dale Justice, “Bottom Line,” Vero Beach, to the recommended oil and mainte- Florida below the DMM’s current rating nance schedule for the most reliable (commonly 10 Amps; but check the engine service. A: While it’s impossible to have a — Steve Auger, Mercury Marine specific meter) in series with one of the leads. circuit without a conductor, 6 volts is As the Juice Flows Assuming the a lot. If you put on some resistance result of the such as a light bulb, it’s likely the Q: What’s the procedure to determine above test is zero voltage on the meter will disappear the source of an unintended current amps, turn on and the bulb won’t light. The only draw? One of my newly installed battery one breaker at a solution that makes any sense is that banks is going flat too frequently. I sus- time and repeat all surfaces are very dirty. Leakage pect a defective (and new) bilge pump the test. When across an electrolyte (dampness in switch that doesn’t want to turn off. How the DMM reads your case) on all surfaces can cause do I do the detective work to trace the current, you’ve voltage flow. If you undo the hold- device that is pulling power when it found a load. If downs, take off the crossbars and should not? you believe you touch the positive post, you’ll likely Joel Albert, “Charlie B,” Deale, Maryland have a float not get a reading. Wiping all sur-

6 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 faces with a paper towel and bak- the engine manufacturer. Stay away we’re still afloat? ing soda dissolved in water should from unrecognized brands. If the Rob Weien, “Sea Bear,” San Diego, resolve your current flow. price is too good to be true, then California — Jan Mundy there is likely a catch. Ensure that A: Since your Dynaplate is sintered the oil you purchase is recognized bronze (an alloy), it is subject to self- Which Outboard Oil is Best? as acceptable by the NMMA or the corrosion, galvanic corrosion and Q: There are many different 2-cycle engine manufacturer. stray-current when immersed in an — Steve Auger, Mercury Marine outboard motor oils on the market. electrolyte (seawater) whether or not Is there a difference? Grounds for Underwater Metal it’s connected to a common bonding Melvin E. Woodward, Gloucester Point, Corrosion system. Since self-corrosion — elec- Virginia trochemical corrosion involving a Q: Two years ago I installed a single piece of metal, either a pure The outboard motor oils that are A: Dynaplate on our Westsail 43 to use metal or an alloy — is typically a available today have become prod- as a grounding plate for the ham very slow process, it’s not the likely uct specific and selection depends and single sideband radio. To avoid culprit here. Galvanic or stray cur- on brand, age of your engine, type any chance (or so I thought) of gal- rent corrosion are stronger candi- of fuel system and cost. If you have vanic corrosion, I didn’t connect the dates. For a galvanic cell to be an older outboard that uses a 24:1 plate to ground or bond it to the formed, two dissimilar metals must oil ratio, then there is no advantage boat’s grounding system. All was be immersed in the same electrolyte in using expensive oil designed for fine until the last dive inspection that a Mercury Optimax, for example. found the plate had turned bluish- (in this case water) and connected Conversely, don’t trust a low-cost, green and the four screws were via a metallic path, either by direct generic oil to protect a new starting to corrode. I cannot figure physical contact or a conductor. The $17,000 computer-controlled out- out what’s going on, since the plate dissimilar metals involved can even board. The best oil for your out- is electrically “floating” as are the be on two different boats connected board is the one recommended by bronze thru-hulls. Any ideas while via the green grounding wire in a

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1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 7 Talk back Q&A A: Assuming the rudder is a typical A: Currently there are no direct-to- fiberglass shell with a solid polyester metal bottom paints. An epoxy bar- marina’s AC shorepower system. filler encasing a stainless-steel post rier coat should be okay to use, but [Ed: Refer to “Breaking the Ground welded to an internal steel structural it’s good practice to first apply a Circuit,” in DIY 2001-#4 issue for a web you have two options: repair or metal etch primer to ensure adhe- more detailed explanation.] Stray replace. To repair, disconnect the sion of the barrier coat, followed by current (electrolytic) corrosion is steering, remove the rudder, then a coating of antifouling paint. Trim split the two rudder halves apart to tabs and caused by an electrical current from expose the internal structure. Chisel running an outside source flowing between away the internal fillers to free the gear two metals immersed in the same steel web structure and rudderpost. (props, electrolyte. Stray current is the most Repair or replace the corroded shafts, rud- rapid of the three forms of corro- pieces as required. Rebond and ders and sion. It can destroy underwater met- reassemble struts) seem als in a matter of days or, when the the rudder very tough source of the stray current operates halves and to protect only intermittently, months. If stray wrap with a due to the dynamic movements in current is involved, its source could new glass their usual operational mode. be on your own boat or on a neigh- outer skin. Fill — Jan Mundy boring boat if you are normally and fair the Boat Ergonomics plugged into a marina’s AC shore- rudder, then power system. With the boat afloat epoxy prime Q: Do you have information on the in its usual berth, check the corro- and reapply optimum dimensions for dinettes that antifouling. sion potential of each of your boat’s will lower to a bunk. The length and Reinstall rud- width are determined by the boat immersed metals using a multimeter der and con- itself, but I need to figure out the seat or corrosion test meter and a silver- nect the steering system. [Ed: height, depth, and back angle, etc. silver chloride reference cell. You Detailed step-by-step rudder repair Eamonn Flynn, “Stella Maris,” Rockwood, can buy a Guest corrosion test instructions appear in DIY 2000-#3 Ontario meter, reference cell and workbook issue.] If replacement is a better through West Marine for about option, order a replacement rudder A: Boatbuilders follow the same US$230. If you do not have ready from an aftermarket supplier, such rules of ergonomics as builders of all access to this equipment and/or are as Foss Foam (Tel: 352/529-1104; things designed to accommodate unfamiliar with its use, employ a Web: newrudders.com) or the origi- humans. Ideally, you want a dinette qualified marine electrician (prefer- nal boatbuilder if they are still in seat that allows the feet to rest firmly ably one who is ABYC certified) or business. Disconnect and remove the on the cabin sole, and is just deep a marine surveyor to do a corrosion old rudder. Once you have the new enough to comfortably support the survey for you. You’ll be able to rudder, drill a new rudderpost for legs and back against the backrest. determine whether galvanic or stray steering attachments, copying the Recommended dimensions for a dimensions from the old rudder. You current is the culprit and take appro- properly designed dinette has a seat may have to trim the rudderpost to priate corrective action. height of 45cm (18") and depth of the same length as your original. — Susan Canfield 38cm to 43cm (15" to 17"). A Reinstall rudder, reconnect steering seat base-to-backrest angle of and apply bottom paint. 95° to 105° allows leaning Rudderpost Fix — Nick Bailey back 5° to 15°. x — Jan Mundy Q: Corrosion has eaten through the Painting Trim Tabs 95° - 105° bottom of my rudderpost, which has x become soft. I need a new post or Q: What is the scoop on applying cut back the post and attach a new antifouling paint on stainless-steel 38cm - 43cm (15" - 17") section. Where would you suggest trim tabs and making it stick? Is a that I look for either a new rudder or 45cm barrier coat a good primer? (18") to repair the post. Wendell R. Cover, “Sta-Sea,” Baltimore,

Eric Lipper, “Docket,” Houston, Texas Maryland GUY DRINKWALTER

8 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 Leaking Deck Joint Q: My Tanzer 26 seems to be leaking under the rubrail that covers the joint between the upper and lower parts of the boat. The rubrail seems to be one continuous piece so I’m afraid to remove it for fear that I can’t get it back on. What approach is recommended? I assume I have to get at the bolts to tighten the joint and do some sealing but how can I prevent damaging the rubrail? Peter Henderson, “Tranquillity,” Mimico Cruising Club, Ontario

A: Tanzer 22, 26 and similar rubrails are one-piece units stretched into place using special equipment. They are an absolute S.O.B. to reinstall. Recaulking the hull-deck joint is a problem. I would try prying the rubrail back a few inches at a time and working a polyurethane sealant, such as 3M 5200 in under the rubrail. An external bead of sealant can follow this where the rubrail butts up against the boat. Top or bottom may need to be caulked depending on whether it’s rainwater that is leaking or the leak occurs while sailing with the rail under water. If in doubt, caulk both top and bottom. — Nick Bailey Rudder Alignment Q: I have a twin inboard 30 Sea Ray Weekender. The rudders are not aligned perfectly parallel. Nor are they set to turn equidistant to each side. Should this be cor- rected or is there a reason for this? Michael Patria, “Fish N Bones,” Stratford, Connecticut

A: According to Mark Ellis, designer of the Legacy cruiser and other sail and powerboats, your rudders should not be aligned nor do they turn equidistant. Powerboat designers will either toe in or toe out the rudders so they go through the water at different angles to enhance performance. The difference in the angle of attack is usually determined by experimentation with the prototype hull. Subtle changes in the setup can make significant handling changes. To determine the exact angle and before making any changes to the setup, I suggest you first contact Sea Ray. — Jan Mundy

TECHNICAL HELPLINE FREE HELPLINE If you hit a snag DIY can HELP!!! When you subscribe to DIY print version or subscribe to the DIY EZINE (the web version) See TalkBack Q&A Column for details. To subscribe go to www.diy-boat.com and shop online or call toll free: 1-888-658-2628

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 9 from CarQuest Auto Parts negated anything. By placing an orange TECH TIPS having to replace the switch and Ping-Pong ball in the strainer I can, route all new wiring for the pumps at a quick glance and from some TEAK BREW: To clean teak, mix from the bilge to the bridge. distance, see the ball “dance” in the 500 ml (1 cup) each of ammonia Kent Phillips, Vancouver, Washington flow of the cooling water. Michael and clothes wash detergent (without MORE NOZZLE PRESSURE: Wolfe, “River Queen,” Sockton, California bleach) in a bucket of warm water. An PLASTICIZING ALUMINUM: Don protective gloves and do a spot easy way to increase water pressure It’s test to be sure this solution doesn’t when showering is to connect the notoriously difficult to keep harm sealants or bedding com- water supply hose to a smaller diam- aluminum covered with pounds. Next, apply this mixture to eter showerhead. paint, which tends to flake the teak with a sponge and leave to off even after vigorous wire MOUSTACHE REMOVER: Naturally soak for about 15 minutes before brushing and priming. After occurring brown tannin in southern rinsing. Don’t scrub or pressure several years of repainting waters is the cause of the ugly stains wash the teak. Both procedures can my window frames every known as the “moustache” on boats remove vital teak fibers. few months, I covered used there. It’s a big Tom Green, TeakTrader them with a plastic film that headache for boa- still looks good after two years. Plasti EASY BILGE PUMP LINK: As I’ve towners. While host- Dip is a liquid plastic used to coat been unlucky enough to experience ing a DIY Workshop tool handles, whip rope ends, coat that “sinking” feeling, I’ve installed at a BoatUS store in electrical wire connections and for three high-capacity bilge pumps on West Palm Beach, many other sealing tasks available at my 21-year-old boat. Already we tested various hardware stores. Mix up a batch installed was a small bilge pump products and found thinned with 1/5 part toluene (or lac- wired to a small-capacity pump a solution. StarBrite quer thinner) and stir, then brush on. switch mounted on the bridge. Rust Remover is a light acid base In a few places where the aluminum Installing a 30-amp sealed relay that instantly releases the tannin has continued to oxidize, the coating costing just US$3.45 purchased without harming the gelcoat. Just has lifted slightly, but remains gener- spray on, wipe off and rinse. ally intact and it’s not noticeable to CLEAN WATER TANK: To remove the casual glance. the telltale brown calcium deposits Alan Porter, “Te Tiaroa,” Victoria, British Columbia from hot water, I simply wiped the brown deposit from the areas within STIRRER’S ASSIST: When apply- reach through the tank inspection ing antifouling paint, it’s important port, then used a high-pressure to continually stir it to prevent sepa- washer to “scrub” out the tank. For ration of the biocide from the base. a final cleaning, fill the tank with 4L To make a stirrer, weld a discarded (5 gallons) of water and 836ml (1 alternator fan blade to a rod the gallon) of vinegar, let sit overnight, diameter of the your drill bit chuck. then drain and rinse. Run the drill in reverse to stir, as the Dudley Hattaway, Walnut Creek, California rpm is too aggressive in forward. IS YOUR ENGINE DRAWING TECH TIPS WANTED COOL WATER? My engine start-up routine includes checking that water If you have a boat-tested tip you’d like to is being pumped through the raw- share, send complete information along water strainer. A close visual inspec- with your name, boat name and home tion shows tiny bubbles swirling port to DIY TECH TIPS: about under the P.O. Box 22473 strainer’s small Alexandria, VA 22304 plastic lid, but I have to stick my head down in Or email to [email protected] the engine compartment to see

10 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 complete electrical paths within the Main circuit primary circuits. All electrical loads Switch protection Feeder on the boat, for example, are indi- Sub-main breaker LECTRICAL vidual secondary circuits. Finally, Main breaker E there are internal circuits within each Branch See E-9.11.3.1 Main breaker breaker exception 2 electrical or electronic device. Branch Main All electrical circuits must be pro- fuse breaker Branch

THE WEAK LINK ABYC tected from too much current flow, Distribution breaker panel Fuses and circuit breakers which can cause wire conductors to FIGURE 1 prevent too much amperage overheat and wire insulation to burn, Main and Branch Circuit from traveling through a and can damage internal circuits in Protection individual appliances. Protection of wire, building heat through an electrical circuit is in the form of by excess amperage. resistance that may damage an intentional weak link, typically a Types of CPDs electrical and electronic fuse or circuit breaker, which the Fuses are strictly thermal devices that equipment, and more industry refers to as a overcurrent cir- melt at a predetermined amperage. cuit protection device (CPD). Circuit They are reliable and relatively inex- important, cause an electri- protection on board a boat must be pensive, although total cost includes cal fire. You can avoid taken seriously. A potentially devastat- the purchase of a fuse mounting potentially dangerous prob- ing electrical fire can result when too block and a protective cover of some much amperage travels through a lems by reviewing ABYC type, spares, since fuses must be wire and enough heat is generated to replaced after each overcurrent con- standards to make sure melt and burn the wire insulation and dition, and some form of circuit dis- adequately sized circuit surrounding materials, causing a fire. connect. Circuit breakers can be ther- CPDs are meant to protect mal or magnetic devices, or a combi- protection devices are against unexpected problems, and installed properly. nation of the two. Circuit breakers shouldn’t preclude proper wire siz- are typically more expensive than [ By Kevin Jeffrey ] ing and adherence to proper electri- fuses, especially for high load cir- cal system design and installation cuits, but they also serve as circuit practices. Sizing wire is relatively lectrical circuit” refers to a easy. You simply match the maxi- “Ecomplete path for electrical mum sustained amperage in a given current flowing through wires. A RATINGS STATS circuit and the total length of the cir- CPDs have ratings that help describe their boat’s power system is comprised of cuit wiring with a proper wire size intended purpose and how they function, as well various electrical circuits formed by that will be safe and also prevent an as help customers make good decisions where connecting a voltage source such as excessive voltage drop for the type and when to use them. a battery bank or AC power source of appliance used (Figure 2). [Ed: Amperage Rating: The amperage used to cal- to one or more electrical loads For specifics on wire sizes, factoring culate the opening speed of the device, not the (equipment that uses electricity) by in voltage drop, length of run and actual amperage at which the CPD will trip or means of a conductor (wire or whether or not the wire passes “blow.” It usually takes an additional 20% or so cable). In a DC (direct current) cir- through a heated space (i.e. engine of amperage above the rated value for the CPD cuit, battery voltage pushes electrical compartment), refer to DIY 1998-#4 to trip. current through various electrical issue, or “DC Electrical Systems” Opening Speed or Delay: The relationship loads when they are switched on, CD-ROM, or sections E-8 and E-9 of between the percentage a CPD is operating over using some of the energy stored in ABYC Standards.] its amperage rating and the length of time the battery to perform useful work. Sizing wire correctly can’t protect required for it to open. The higher the percent of In an AC (alternating current) circuit against accidental grounding through current flow to amperage rating, the faster the the voltage source (shorepower, wire chafe, equipment failure or circuit protector opens. inverter or gen-set) pushes electrical grounding a circuit while performing Interrupt Rating: How much current the fuse current in a similar manner, again system maintenance that temporarily can safely handle in short circuit situations. Refer using energy in the process. allows a dangerous amount of current to Figure 4 on page 13 to determine what mini- There are primary or main cir- mum interrupt rating is required. cuits, which typically include the to flow. CPDs handle unsafe levels of Voltage Rating: The maximum voltage for the main power sources, either DC or current by opening the circuit, either AC (Figure 1). There are also sec- through thermal devices or devices circuit in which the fuse is used. ondary or branch circuits that are that sense a magnetic field created — KJ

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 11 ABYC FIGURE 2 ABYC Amperage Recommendations

Glass Tube Fuse 50

Automotive Style Fuse 80

Thermal Circuit Breaker 150

Sea Fuses 2000

Magnetic Circuit Breaker 3000

T-1 Series Circuit Breaker 5000

ANL Inline Fuse 6000 GUY DRINKWALTER

Class T Inline Fuse 20,000

100 500 2000 5000 10,000 20,000 Amperes FIGURE 3 Quick-Reference Comparison of CPDs disconnects and since they are resettable the need to carry spares is not as critical. (Figure 3 illustrates a quick-reference comparison of CPDs.) Class T Fuse: Recommended by most inverter manufacturers, it has an extremely fast short-circuit response, a 20,000 ampere DC interrupt capacity, and is rated for up to 160 volts DC (VDC). ANL Fuse: With a 6,000 ampere DC interrupt capacity, it meets ABYC requirements for main DC circuit protection on large battery banks with a voltage up to 32DC. Sea Fuse: An economical choice for circuit protection between 100 and 300 amperes. It has a 2,000 amperes DC interrupt capacity and is rated for up to 32VDC. Automotive Style Fuse: Inexpensive and widely available through automotive stores, it’s the most economical choice for between 30- and 80-ampere circuit protection. It has 1,000-ampere DC interrupt capacity and a 32DC voltage rating. Glass Fuses: Available in current ratings from less than 1

12 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 FIGURE 5 Factoring Wire Size 14 AWG 14 AWG The smallest wire in

16 AWG 16 AWG a circuit determines the amperage of the 18 AWG 18 AWG fuse or circuit This is the limit factor breaker. in this ciricut GUY DRINKWALTER

cuit breaker. Then, check to see what ampere interrupt rating is required for the application (see Figure 4). Next, make sure the CPD is rated to open at an amperage greater than the maximum circuit load and less than FIGURE 4 How to Determine Interrupt Rating the rated amperage capacity of the smallest wire in the Use the table above to determine the required minimum circuit. It’s also useful to know the maximum momentary interrupt rating per ABYC, or how much current the fuse or or surge current experienced in the circuit. Choosing breaker can safely handle in a short circuit condition. CPDs that can withstand this surge and still offer the up to 50 amperes, these inexpensive fuses are used for required protection means you’ll avoid nuisance tripping. branch circuits in a variety of applications. AGC models As a final check, make sure the CPD’s voltage rating are fast-acting fuses, while MDL models are time-delay meets or exceeds the circuit voltage. fuses for high inrush motor type loads. Where to Install? Thermal Circuit Breakers: The T-1 series CPD from Before locating CPDs in your electrical system, it’s impor- Blue Sea is thermally responsive bi-metal breakers combin- tant to understand the concept that CPDs are installed to ing switching and breaker function in one unit. They are protect individual wires in a circuit, and that they should be available with ampere ratings from 25 to 150 amperes, a sized specifically for those wires. Secondary and small voltage rating of 48VDC, and 5,000 amperes at 24VDC branch circuits use smaller (in number only, larger in size) interrupt rating. Blue Sea’s standard thermal circuit break- gauge wires, so smaller CPDs should be used (Figure 5). ers are similar to the T-1 Series but have a 3,000-ampere Ultimately every wire on board would be protected, DC interrupt rating, a 30VDC voltage rating. Magnetic Circuit Breakers: Available in a wide range of styles and ratings, there are standard DC and AC single pole circuit breakers used for protecting branch circuits in electrical distribution panels. Some low ampere models, rated as “quick trip” are designed specifically for electronics. Double pole AC breakers are available to switch both hot and neutral legs of a 120VAC circuit or two hot legs of a 240VAC circuit. Standard magnetic circuit breakers typically have a 2,000- to 3,000-ampere interrupt rating, although some models are available with a 5,000-ampere interrupt rating. It used to be that only fuses could handle heavy DC loads, but high load circuits can now be protected with single, double or triple pole breakers, such as those from Blue Sea Systems and Paneltronics. In these devices breakers rated up to 100 amperes each are ganged to provide various levels of protection. Sizes range from 50-ampere single pole to 300-ampere triple pole models.

Sizing and Selecting When choosing CPDs, take it one circuit at a time. First, choose whether you want a fuse or circuit breaker for each circuit. Circuits in an explosive vapor area, such as gasoline engine rooms, battery compartments and propane lockers, must be protected by a vapor-proof cir-

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 13 Horn FIGURE 7 The 7-40-72 Rule

Fuse or circuit breaker 72" max Fuses or Distribution panel circuit breakers or switchboard / panelboard

Wiper Branch circuits DC Fuse or circuit breaker negative Blower 72" max bus

Float switch Battery isolation switch or Circuit protection combined selector / isolation switch not required in cranking circuit Fuse or circuit breaker Bilge pump Main 7" or 40" max Positive feed to feed Accessory distribution panel Solenoid negative Fuse or 7" or 40" max bus circuit breaker E-9.5.7.3 Engine Starter Fuse or positive feed to engine panel motor circuit breaker and / or distribution panel Battery switch Alternator 7" or 40" max GUY DRINKWALTER

Engine Battery negative terminal power source, i.e., at the shorepower inlet(s), generator Horn output and inverter output (Figure 8). In addition, there should be branch circuit breakers on every branch circuit.

Distribution panel Fuses or On boats with multiple sources of AC power, the main cir- or switchboard / panelboard circuit breakers Wiper cuit breakers can be conveniently located in an AC source Branch circuits DC selector panel (Figure 9). This type of panel allows only negative Blower bus one AC power source to be capable of supplying power at any given time. In this case the main circuit breakers also Float switch are serving as manual circuit disconnect switches. Parallel switch or solenoid Bilge pump Main About the author: Kevin Jeffrey works as an independent electrical Accessory feed negative power consultant and is the author of the “Independent Energy Guide” bus Fuse or and publisher of “Sailor’s Multihull Guide” available soon in its third E-9.5.7.3 circuit breaker Engine Engine edition. Battery switch E-9.5.4 Resources E-9.5.5 “Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small

Battery Battery Craft,” American Boat & Yacht Council; Tel: 410/956- Engine negative 1050, Website: www.abycinc.org terminal

DC main negative bus To DC ground bus FIGURE 8 E-9.5.7.2 ABYC Sample AC Circuits to ABYC Standards FIGURE 6 Sample DC Circuits to ABYC Standards (1) Single-phase 120V shorepower with shore-grounded (white) (top) Single engine and (bottom) twin inboard engine DC neutral conductor and grounding (green) conductor. (2) A electrical systems without AC power systems. 120VAC generator included as an additional AC power source. In both diagrams the ungrounded conductor and the grounded but that is impractical. In the DC side of an electrical neutral are protected with a single overcurrent protection power system, ABYC standards take a reasonable device that simultaneously opens both current-carrying conduc- approach to circuit protection by exempting mandatory tors.ABYC does not recommend fuses to serve this function. CPDs from wires between batteries, battery switch and 120VAC branch circuits are permitted to be single pole in the engine starter motor (Figure 6). CPDs are required within ungrounded current carrying conductors. (3) Single-phase 120/240VAC system with shore-grounded (white) neutral con- 18cm (7") of the battery switch and ductor and grounding (green) conductor. Each ungrounded starter motor on wires leading to vari- shore conductor connects through the shorepower inlet to the ous loads, and within 183cm (72") on boat’s AC electrical system through a single overcurrent protec- wires leading to loads directly from a tion device that simultaneously opens both ungrounded conductors.The shore-grounded neutral connects to the boat’s AC battery. The 18cm (7") dimension can electrical system without overcurrent protection. It may be used be extended to 101cm (40") if wires provided the overcurrent protection device opens all current are enclosed in a sheath or other carrying conductors in the circuits (in this case a 3-pole switch enclosure in addition to the wire insu- is needed). (4) An isolation transformer system with single lation (Figure 7). phase, 240VAC shorepower input and 120/240VAC output from the transformer. Circuit protection is provided by a main shore- In the AC side, there FIGURE 9 power disconnect on the shore side of the transformer and sec- should be a main circuit Sample AC selector panel. ondary overcurrent protection on the boat system side of the breaker at each AC transformer. Each ungrounded shore current carrying conductor

14 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 ABYC current caryingconducto rs. circuit breakers must betwo-pole andsimultaneously openall 240VAC branch conductors. in theungrounded current carrying 120VAC branch circuitbreakersare permittedtobesingle pole device thatsimultaneously opensbothungrounded conductors. the isolationtransformer through anovercurrent protection connects from theshorepowerwinding of inlettotheprimary Ungrounded conductor Black Ungrounded conductor Black Ungrounded conductor (Black) Ungrounded conductor Black Grounded neutral conductor White Grounded conductor White Grounded neutral conductor White Grounded conductor (White) Ungrounded conductor Red Ungrounded conductor Red Grounding conductor Green

Grounding conductor (Green) connection Grounding conductor Green plugs andreceptacles Shore cable connector Grounding conductor Green connector grounding type connection Shore Shorepower plugs andreceptacles connector 2 pole,3wire Shore plug andreceptacles Shore plugs &receptacles grounding type Shorepower 3 pole,4wire Shorepower grounding type grounding type 3 pole,4wire connector Shorepower 2 pole3wire Shorepower cable cable Shore power cable cable Shorepower connector cable cable Shorepower connector cable Power inlet(electrically insulated fromtheboat Power inlet(electrically insulated fromtheboat if isolatorisinstalled) Shore side Shore side if isolatorisinstalled) Shore side

Boat side Power inlet(electrically Boat side insulated fromboat) Power inlet(electrically

Generator main Shore side insulated fromboatif

circuit breaker Boat side isolator isinstalled) Main shorepower Optional galvanic isolator galvanic circuit breaker isolator Optical Boat side Main shorepower disconnect Optiona galvani circuit breaker isolato disconnect Main shorepower circuit breaker 120 VAC generator disconnect T r c ransformer Green l shield ground connection T

ransformer case White Main Shorepower indicator 120/240 VAC P circuit breaker olarit generator

Black disconnect Tr Gen-Off-Shore ansfer switch To terminal oritsbus main circuit y Generator enginenegative Encapsulated singlephase breaker 1:1 isolationtransformer To en To terminal oritsbus circuit breaker with metalcase T secondary gine negative To en To ransformer terminal oritsbus fuse or Shore–Off–Gen T ransfer switch

To Black terminal oritsbus gine negative enginenegative White Black Black breaker (typical)

White Green Branch circuit White Black Red Green White Green Red breaker (typical) breaker (typical) Branch circuit Green Branch circuit type receptacle 1 3 2 1 20 VAC groundin 4 type receptacl breaker (typical) grounding 120 VAC Branch circuit 120 VAC device type receptacle type receptacle 240 VAC grounding 120 VAC device 120 VAC grounding device 120 VAC 120 VAC device 240 VAC 240 VAC Device device e g 1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002-#2 15 P RO SERIES 10 STEPS TO A PERFECT PAINT JOB Painting a fiberglass boat may be the only solution to restoring gelcoat brilliance.

You can do this yourself, This Bayfield 25 was professionally painted 15 years ago and still gleams. but a professional touch ish. This may sound like a disadvan- off when removing the masking tape. guarantees spectacular tage but it translates to being easier You can test for adhesion, but where results. to repair runs, sags, orange peel there is doubt, use 80-grit sandpaper [ Story and photos by Nick Bailey ] and dust specks or future scratches to completely remove the original fin- by wet sanding and buffing. ish. [Ed: DIY 2002-#1 issue, page ou’ve probably noticed a boat Step 1 Evaluation 47, describes how to perform a paint Y hull finish with a gloss so deep adhesion test.] that it reflects every detail. While A “standard” paint job presumes the It’s important to determine if the other boatowners struggle with rou- original gelcoat is adhering well and boat floats on its lines. A scum line tine buffing and waxing to win a is free of significant cracking or craz- can be a valuable clue to the true brief victory over their dowdy gel- ing. Damaged gelcoat requires waterline. If this is the case for your coat, this boat escapes with an removal by grinding and extra filling, boat, you will need to designate the fairing and priming steps to restore a occasional wipe down. These show- correct waterline or shift weights fair and smooth surface. Recoating stoppers have been professionally onboard to correct trim or list. an existing paint job can be simpler refinished with Awlgrip, Imron, Consider raising the top edge of than painting the original gelcoat, but Interspray or the like. antifouling to about 5cm (2") above Professional polyurethane paints damage that was “papered over” on the waterline as polyurethane paints are usually formulated as either the previous job will return to mar the don’t tolerate constant immersion and acrylic or polyester. The acrylic new finish, so repair this damage can blister if submerged for extended types are faster drying and more for- now. If the previous coating is not the periods. giving in comparison to the poly- same formula as the new, the incom- ester varieties. They also tend to pro- patibility could lead to total failure or Step 2 Setup duce a softer, but less durable, fin- a tendency for the old coating to peel The yard lifting equipment moves the The paint job candidate, an early ‘80s C&C 34, has original gelcoat that is faded and boat to the paint booth and blocks it dull but in fair condition. there. Scaffolding goes up around the boat.

In the spray booth, polyurethane paints demand the controlled environment of a spray booth for best results.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 17 Pro Series to hermetically seal the bottom. Never use newsprint for masking as it can stain the paint surface. A paint booth is fitted with an “air make-up unit” designed to sup- Step 5 Prep Sanding ply high volumes of filtered, temperature controlled fresh air at one end and exhaust it out the other through a tall chimney. This airflow serves both safety and practical purposes. Professional painter, Earl Hadcock, It protects the technicians by provid- makes repairs and completes masking. ing a safe working environment and He uses the recommended solvent wash prevents paint spray mist from hang- to clean the hull and remove any wax or oily residue that may cause paint ing in the air and resettling on the adhesion problems later. wet surface as well as precluding a potentially explosive buildup of name graphics, registration numbers volatile vapor. Intense illumination is and pin stripes are removed. The Prep sanding with a dual action (ran- provided in the booth to ensure painter may want to remove hull fit- dom orbit) air sander fitted with 15cm enough light to reveal the slightest tings if they cannot be masked (6") sanding disc. Note blue wash on flaw. In warm weather, 15.5°C cleanly and the fitting is simple to the hull as a sanding indicator. (60°F) and higher, it’s feasible to remove. Applying machinist’s blue dye paint outdoors. Lots of pro paint The hull is scrubbed with deter- (diluted with acetone) to a dull hull jobs are carried out in the open air gent and rinsed with freshwater finish before sanding helps identify but it’s hard to beat the finish quality and/or cleaned and dewaxed using the sanded areas. The dye can be a that is possible in a proper paint proprietary cleaners recommended convenient indicator because, with booth. by the paint manufacturer. sanding, the dye goes away, and when it’s gone, you’re finished. Step 3 Initial Prep Work Step 4 Masking Prep sand gelcoat with sandpa- Any chips, dings, nicks, or gouges per that varies from 80 to 180 grit in the hull that are deep enough to depending on hardness of the gel- feel are filled and faired, sometimes coat. Pros use air tools but any with gelcoat, sometimes with filler. good dual action (random orbit) Fine scratches and abrasions usually sander using 3M Hookit system disappear during prep sanding but sanding discs works. Keep the sand- if not, they are filled after priming. ing disc flat to the surface to avoid Stress cracks or any deep chips that gouging or scalloping. break the glass laminate are ground out and repaired with new glass Step 6 Prep and Priming fiber and block sanded to level. Old Every polyurethane paint job Plastic shroud encloses the deck and cabin of the boat in an air and dust requires a special epoxy primer for tight cocoon. good adhesion and to seal the substrate. After final sanding, the primer Carefully mask all the edges of the provides a non-porous, ultra-smooth paint job with 3M Fine Line #218 masking tape. This tape is backed up by regular masking tape overlapping the Fine Line almost to the definitive paint edge. A polyethylene (top) Bow close- sheet goes over the top of the boat, up before paint- is trimmed to fit and taped to seal ing showing against the upper tape stack. This ding. Decals and seals the deck and interior from some hull fittings will also be sanding dust and paint fumes. removed. Attach a brown paper skirt to the Primer spray application, at least two (inset) Bow ding filled and faired. lower tape edge. It’s not necessary coats are needed.

18 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 surface ready for the high gloss top- If there are large areas of fairing coat. Prep sanding alone isn’t suffi- filler or surfacer left exposed after cient. The booth air make-up is sanding the primer, a full second turned on and compressed air is prime stage is recommended. used to remove dust from the hull Otherwise, the topcoat absorbs into surface and the booth. Residual dust the substrate unevenly. The darker clinging to the hull is removed with the final topcoat color, the more visi- a solvent wipe and tack rags. ble the imperfections. The two-part epoxy primer is mixed and reducer solvent added to Step 8 Primer Finishing get the specified spray viscosity. The Once cured, the primer is sanded viscosity is measured by timing how with fine sandpaper, usually 280 to long the mixture takes to run out of the bottom hole of a calibration cup. Some primers are applied at different viscosity depending on how much primer the painter wants to “build” onto the surface, which depends in turn the roughness of the prepped surface. Spraying highly toxic two-part While the mix is sitting for the polyurethane paint requires protective gear including a fresh-air supply to the required 15-minute induction time technician. Disposable suit is made of (necessary to start the epoxy cure Final prep sanding of epoxy primer with vapor-proof Tyvec. reaction) the painter suits up with 320-grit paper. disposable airtight Tyvec coveralls, solvent-proof gloves and approved 320 grit. Hand sanding around respirator. A fresh air supply is not edges and fittings must be done required at this stage. Two or three carefully to avoid cutting subtle coats of primer are applied allowing grooves that will show in the final approximately one hour between topcoat. coats, and then it’s left to cure for Step 9 Stripes and Topcoats 12 to 24 hours. Dust on a wet topcoat is a big prob- Step 7 Fine Filling and Surfacing lem. The hull and the booth must be The first primer step may not be the Viscosity dilution check of the topcoat with reducer for proper spraying is last. The pearly sheen of the primer gauged by the amount of time the calibrated cup takes to drain. Mixed topcoat is poured one batch at a time into the pressure pot then small amounts of additives are added.

Final dust removal with a tack rag.

carefully swept with compressed air and the hull surface wiped and tack ragged again. Protective clothing is again worn Hadcock applies surfacer with a drywall plus a respirator with a fresh-air sup- putty knife to squeeze it into minor sur- ply due to the toxic isocyanate pre- face imperfections. sent in all two-part polyurethane Spray application of the white boot reveals the true condition of the hull. paints. Each type and brand of stripe begins with a light tack coat and Usually, as a minimum, some fine polyurethane topcoat has a different may need three to five coats to cover. spot filling (surfacing) is needed to catalyst-to-paint ratio and additives. Yellow and other bright colors take even address pinholes or sanding marks. There are additives that accelerate more coats.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 19 Pro Series stripe. The stripe width is contoured to give a consistent apparent width when viewed CARE & FEEDING OF PAINTED HULLS from a sight line level with the waterline. A • Never wax polyurethane paint coatings as it small piece of tape is dulls and yellows the finish. applied and then • Don’t shrinkwrap or allow any other plastic peeled away to test tarp to remain in tight contact with the surface the fresh paint stripe for sufficient the mask edge. The tape peels best as it traps moisture and causes blistering. cure to apply masking without mar- if it’s pulled at a right angle to the • Beware of haphazard winter tarps that can ring the finish. If the gloss survives surface. There will be paint over- flap against and chafe the hull. hangs where the paint does not tear • Avoid fender chafe. Terrycloth fender covers this test, stripes are masked with 3M cleanly and these must be carefully don’t help as they trap dirt and become abra- Fine Line tape for the edges with trimmed with a razor blade held flat sive. masking paper in between. • Don’t use abrasive cleaners or scrubbers. Topcoat application follows over against the hull Wash regularly with mild soap and water and the remaining hull. Paint needs a a sponge or wash cloth. minimum cure time of overnight up Post Painting • Stubborn fender smears can be removed to 24 hours. After removing masking, apply vinyl with acetone, lacquer thinner or mineral spirits name and hull graphics, pinstripes, followed by a water wash. Step 10 Unmasking cove stripes etc. but take care to • Avoid the use of two-part teak cleaners as It’s best to remove the masking as avoid scratching the “green” paint the alkali and acids in these products can dam- soon as possible after the paint surface. age or stain the finish. cures. At this stage the coating is still Beyond the initial 12 to 24 hour • Water spots and salt residue are a nuisance a bit soft and is easier to break at paint cure, most polyurethane paints on dark hulls, but are easily removed with a continue curing for two or three distilled vinegar rinse. weeks while the coating attains opti- — NB mum hardness. During this period, take care when mooring and han- the cure in cool conditions, others dling the boat to avoid scratching that make the coatings less sensitive the shiny new finish. to fish eye, an annoying pockmark that can erupt due to any residual About the author: Nick Bailey is a 25-year contamination on the hull. The vis- veteran of the boat repair business and is service manager of Bristol Marine in Mississ- cosity timer cup is again used to Mask removal is done as soon as possible after the paint has cured. auga, Ontario, where this paint job took gauge correct dilution with spray place. reducer. Most paint jobs are two colors, one for the hull and another for the What’s at www.diy-boat.com boot and cove stripes. The stripe area is coated first (application tech- 1 DIY Help Section: When you need a solution to a problem, click on “Technical Helpline.” niques vary slightly with paint manu- It’s free to DIY Subscribers. facturers) with three or more coats 2 Shop Online: Purchase subscriptions, renewals, back issues and CD-Roms — it’s easy and usually required. Once cured, the fast! hull color application follows after applying masking tape to shield the 3 Solutions Online: Search past Q&As for answers to hundreds of boat, engine and gear problems. 4 Join the Club: Become a member of the “DIY EZINE” and receive 11 issues with a 1 year subscription. 5 Past Articles: A complete Listing by category of DIY articles published from 1995 to 2001. 6 Missing or Expired: If you need to contact us about a missing issue or inquire about your expiry date, click on “Subscriber Services.” Applying hull topcoat.

20 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 controls the current, which is, in turn, level, perhaps you could live with controlled by the pressure, tempera- that much error. That error is unac- ture or level that it senses. Nearly all ceptable and compromises safe P ROJECTS gauges have three terminals on the operations if the gauge indicates oil backside. They usually are: I (igni- pressure or coolant temperature. tion) or + for battery positive, S to To partially resolve this problem, NEED MORE GAUGES? connect to the sender, and N or - to many senders come in two-gauge as connect to battery negative. The cor- well as one-gauge models. They Adding gauges to an exist- responding sender usually has one work properly only when two identi- terminal that accepts a wire (the S cal gauges (same manufacturer’s ing sender is easy with this connection), with the other terminal model, for example) are connected simple device. being the engine block that connects as shown in [Figure 2]. You can- [ By Larry Douglas ] to the negative terminal of the bat- not, however, add a third gauge to tery. [Figure 1] shows the sender this sender without degrading the Would you like to add another and gauge connected in series. In accuracy. You can add another gauge to an existing gauge circuit this case the current from the nega- sender if it’s practical. Provided they but aren’t sure how to connect it? tive terminal of the battery goes to are designed for the same standard, Whether you’d like a second fuel the sender, then through the gauge it’s usually possible to mix manufac- gauge located at the upper helm sta- back to the battery. turers of senders and gauges in sin- tion, or a remote oil pressure gauge There are two major standards gle-gauge systems. For the best from the AC generator installed at a for sender resistances, and a few accuracy, it’s a good idea to stay other, less common, with the same brand. Never mix ones. The most com- gauges from different manufacturers mon standard is 33 to in multi-gauge systems using one 240ohms, and is used sender. Each manufacturer builds Fuel gauge rear view in most North gauges differently, so each of the To ignition switch I s American products. two gauges could show a different N The other major stan- value.

From battery negative Fuel sender unit dard is 0 to 90 ohms, At some point it becomes often used in products impractical, or even impossible, to from Europe and the provide a gauge at every desired Far East. The senders location where multiple senders are Figure 1 and gauges from one needed. Gauge-Echo from ESC Example of fuel sender wired to fuel gauge. standard are not inter- Products is a gauge amplifier mod- changeable with those ule designed to solve this problem of the other as the Dual-gauge fuel gauge rear view gauges will read incor- To ignition switch I s rectly. Be sure you N know which standard From battery negative Dual gauge fuel sender unit your equipment reflects since many I s aftermarket gauge suppliers build to both. GUY DRINKWALTER GUY DRINKWALTER N While the series Figure 2 circuit makes connect- Example of fuel sender wired to two identical gauges. ing one gauge to one sender quite simple, it more convenient location, here’s complicates connecting a second what you need to know to add a gauge to the same circuit. If you gauge to almost any existing system. parallel the second gauge to the Gauges attached to senders are first, you’ve mismatched the sender Two gauges in parallel using a single- all, in essence, specifically designed and its load, namely the gauge, so gauge rated sender. Note that the gauges don’t read full even though the both gauges will now read about and calibrated ammeters. The sender float is fully in the full position. gauge pointer moves as the sender 1/3 low. If the gauge indicates fuel

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 21 the manifold. The manifold then Projects HAPPINESS IS FEWER HOLES diverts the water via four ball valves: engine, sink, head and a spare for and enables you to add gauges With engines, refrigerators, the future installation of a water- almost without limit. The only requirement is that all the gauges on heads, air-conditioning and maker or a water-cooled refrigerator. each circuit must be of the same various other water depen- I was unable to find an off-the- manufacturer’s models. This is the dent equipment onboard, shelf manifold on the market, so I designed one and had it fabricated same requirement as the dual-gauge most boats have multiple sender noted above, and for the by a local metal shop. It’s a metal same reason. The Gauge-Echo thru-hulls. Here’s a nifty box that measures 15cm by 16cm comes in single and dual gauge device to reduce their num- by 5cm (6" x 6" x 2") and is made models, and is therefore suitable for of 14 gauge 316 stainless steel. A bers, and limit the holes in stainless 3cm (1-1/4") OD pipe is twin-engine operation as well as sin- your boat’s bottom. gle. A typical hookup is as shown in welded onto the bottom of the box [Figure 3] to accept the 3cm (1-1/4") water , which is easily accom- [ By Sandra Turney ] plished by connecting to the existing intake hose. Four stainless-steel stan- circuit using the three terminals at dard pipe threads, two 12mm While rebuilding my Contessa 26, I the rear of the gauge. It works with (1/2") and two 19mm (3/4"), are wanted to reduce the number of either standard, of course. welded onto the side of the box, below waterline thru-hulls for safety 7.6cm (3") apart. The respective reasons. Fewer holes in the bottom pipe threads accept 12mm (1/2") of my boat minimize the chances of and 19mm (3/4") standard ball flooding or sinking. I installed a valves. Four rings are welded onto water intake manifold, sometimes the side edges to attach it to a bulk- called a sea chest. This reduced the head with 6mm (1/4") bolts. The number of water intakes from four to male pipe ends on the box are one. wrapped with plumber’s Teflon tape My design is simple. A 3cm (1- and the ball valves are screwed on 1/4") intake hose connects to the tightly. Teflon tape is wrapped raw-water intake strainer and then to around the threads of the hose barbs and plug that are screwed

6" Schematic of 14 into the ball

1/2" gauge, 316 stainless- valves. steel water manifold 1/2" male 3" 1/2" male Custom fabri- thread thread Figure 3 1/2" delivered to a custom cation of the 6" metal fabricator for 3" box cost Typical connection of two gauges wired reproduction. to a GaugeEcho ge1. Both gauges read Manifold reduces the US$125, full and read the same. 3/4" male 3/4" male number of water then you’ll thread thread intake thru-hulls from need to add 2" four to one. Note the price of Adding gauges to an existing Tabs attached to that handles on the ball valves are bulkhead with 1 whatever gauge circuit is usually possible, but 16mm ( /4") bolts rusting, so ensure that all handles needs to be done correctly or accu- are stainless steel (use a magnet to valves and racy will suffer. For additional infor- test). Regularly operate all moving hose barbs parts and lubricate them with a mation it’s useful to consult the vari- are needed. water-resistant grease. [Ed: The use ous gauge manufacturer’s catalogs GUY DRINKWALTER and web sites. My personal favorite of stainless is Thomas G. Faria Corporation steel in this application should be (Faria Instruments) at www.faria- considered a potential for a cata- instruments.com. It’s a gold mine of strophic failure from either stray cur- valuable information. rent or galvanic corrosion. The manifold’s direct connections to other metals and its state of constant About the author: Larry Douglas is a marine electronics specialist, an avid DIYer, and pres- immersion in raw (sea) water are ident of ESC Products. factors in creating and/or aggravat-

22 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 Another example of a water manifold installed on a new Valiant 50 consists of seacocks and ball valves to accommodate supply and demand. ing such a potential. The welding method must also be scrutinized for the underwater application.] After more than 2,414 km (1,500 miles) cruising, I haven’t had any problems with water shortage when using the engine and, for example, the head flush water intake. A water shortage may be possible if you were using the engine, a water- cooled compressor and the head. Water capacity seems limited only by the size of the raw-water intake and the size of the manifold box. [Ed: Water starvation to any single demand may not be a significant problem in the writer’s experience, but there are many variables that could affect that in other installations. Another potential problem is that of siphoning and/or back flooding from one manifolded service to another. These are not issues to be easily resolved by the amateur designer or fabricator. Make sure you consult the boatbuilder and the manufacturer’s of any equipment or engine to be served by a water manifold system for advice before proceeding. A system intended to prevent a sinking might be exchanged for one that ruins an expensive piece of machin ery.] There was a problem of an air lock between the raw- water intake and the manifold due to winterizing of the water strainer. After pouring anti-freeze into the water strainer and pumping it through the engine, sink and head, the hose from the strainer to the manifold is partially empty. I solved this problem by priming the water strainer: fill it with water, screw the lid on tightly to create a vacuum, and use the sink hand pump to pump the water through and remove the air. When leaving the boat, I always close off the raw-water intake valve as well as all manifold valves. Both raw- water intake and manifold are located under my companionway steps, which gives me good access to see what valves are on or off.

About the author: Sandra Turney has completely rebuilt her 1972 Contessa 26, “Sandy’s Beach.” Last fall, she headed south from Ottawa, Ontario, to cruise the warmer waters of southern Florida and the Bahamas.

24 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 ANCHOR LOCKER VENTILATION What can you do @ [ By Butler Smythe ]

Mold is a problem on many boats and ambi- DIY ONLINE? ent temperature and humidity variations amplify the problem. www.diy-boat.com The anchor locker is one of those places where limited ventilation can result in Free Newsletter humidity so thick that Sign up for a bi-monthly dose of water hangs on the Mold on surfaces in anchor locker underside of the deck. forms in a buildup of condensation more maintenance tips and projects Open one of those compounded by poor ventilation. shallow, bow-mounted anchor lockers on many of today’s sail or powerboats on a Shop Online very hot day and you’ll see that there is no escape for the The place to purchase the current buildup of heat and moisture. Even our Island Packet, with issue, back issues, MRT CD-ROMs, its large anchor locker and louvered door access from the V-berth, developed the black mold visible in the photo. Hands-On Boater CD-ROM, and One easy solution is to install a ventilator that allows renew your DIY Subscription air to enter or exit the anchor locker (great for the cabin, too). Simplicity is the key here and some dangers arise when a ventilator allows entry of water, bugs and other Subscriber Services undesirables. Trip or toe hazards and snag points for dock- Click here to notify DIY of an address lines or anchor rode also become concerns. change, a missing copy, or for a One ventilator that addresses all of those issues is the Vetus stainless steel mushroom ventilator. It’s available in subscription expire inquiry three sizes, is made primarily of stainless steel, except for the seal and interior closure knob, and can be closed and Technical Helpline sealed from the inside as well as from the deck. When closed, it keeps out all comers. When open, it allows air to When you need help with a problem, enter and exit sans bugs and water. Be aware of its click here to reach our Technical open/closed position when underway, and if conditions Helpline. For subscribers only! warrant (rough seas, for example), close it! This ventilator is easy to install by drilling the appropri- ately sized hole, sealing the deck or hatch edges with Archives epoxy or another appropriate sealant to protect the core from getting wet. Pre-drill the holes for stainless screws (not An editorial index of all DIY articles supplied) and apply a bedding compound (I use 3M from 1995 to the current issue! 4200) to the ventilator’s mounting flange and to the fasteners. Position the vent and fasten it. Attach the included plastic interior trim ring if you want. That’s it! DIY EZINE The 7 most recent issues of DIY - All Online! No more storage, searchable, and accessable from any port.

Put things away dry, let in some light and ventilate!

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 25 For areas where lines won’t snag work. Find a location where the bot- or won’t impede movement, the Vetus tom edge of the extractor rests

cowl ventilator with Dorade box has against the hull in an upright posi- Velcro the same great mushroom ventilator tion. To hold it securely, you’ll in its base. Installing either vent will need to make some straps. help control the elements that cause Wrap a strap of 5cm (2") Velcro mold to thrive. Bottom line? Put things webbing around the extrac- away dry, let some light in and venti- tor and add 18cm (7") to late! this length. Cut this piece in

About the author: U.S. Navy vet (retired) half. Heat seal all ends to Hose Butler Smythe lived aboard his Island Packet prevent fraying. Sew match- 35 for nearly 6 years. He is now settled into ing pieces of Velcro, about life ashore and sails his boat out of Long 6cm (2-1/2") long to one end Island, New York. of each strap. Again wrap the Velcro strap around the extractor and, OIL EXTRACTOR STORAGE

holding it in position, screw the GUY DRINKWALTER open ends to the bulkhead placing a Bottom edge of extractor This simple storage method rests against curve of hull. washer under the screw head. Make Most of the weight is at this point. has survived rough seas a webbing loop for the handle and and a near knock down. fasten (refer to photo for placement). ten the straps to it. Fastening these Loop the tubing with both ends fitted [ By Kevin Dean ] straps directly to the hull carries the into the rubber bushing and mount it risk of perforating it. Bed all the fas- Oil extractors are a must-have for on the bulkhead with two webbing teners in sealant to prevent moisture engine oil changes, but finding a straps fastened with Velcro. Caution: penetration. If you are mounting this assembly on suitable mounting location onboard About the author: Kevin Dean sails “Via can be difficult. A shelf is best, but the inside of the hull, glue a wooden Sophia,” a Morgan 32, on the West Coast of an open space against the hull will cleat on the hull so that you can fas- Canada.

26 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 MAINTENANCE Corrosion 101 Shades of stainless steel

This segment in our corrosion series looks Examples of Stainless Self-Corrosion at stainless steel, an alloy that, contrary to popular belief, does rust under certain conditions, sometimes to the point of total failure. [ By Susan Canfield ]

oatowners tend to focus on the hazards of galvanic B corrosion, which occurs between two or more dis- Crevice corrosion, caused by stagnant oxygen-deficient water, perforated this 4mm- (3/16"-) thick stainless-steel propeller similar metals in electrical contact, either directly or via shaft tube, allowing water to flood into the boat. Stainless an external conductor, immersed in the same electrolyte. steel was a poor choice for this application; a fiberglass tube [Ed: Refer to DIY 2001-#4 issue for a complete discus- would have been a better one. sion on galvanic corrosion.] What we often forget is that most metals in marine use are alloys, mixtures of two or more metals. In saltwater, an alloy can generate its own internal galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel is not rustproof. It’s susceptible to self-corrosion, which normally proceeds at a much slower rate than galvanic corrosion. The problem is that this self-corrosion is typically hidden from view or difficult to spot. Consequently, when stainless-steel fittings and components used in the marine environment fail, the failure is catastrophic. Pitting corrosion occurs where a surface irregularity or scratch Stainless steel owes its stainless quality to chromium, becomes more anodic than the surrounding metal.The inten- which is alloyed with iron. The chromium reacts with sity of pitting corrosion is due to the small area of the anode oxygen, in the air or water, to form a thin layer of (the pit) relative to the larger area of the cathode (the sur- chromium oxide that is highly resistant to corrosion. rounding metal). Regular cleaning and removal of salt With its protective film intact, stainless steel is said to be deposits from the surface of the metal can avoid pitting.This 11mm- (15/32"-) thick chainplate is pitted where it passed passive. Scratch or otherwise damage this layer and it through the deck molding. If possible, chainplates should quickly repairs itself so long as oxygen is available. In be accessed periodically -– every five years or earlier the absence of oxygen, however, the protective layer if leaking -– for inspection and does not reform and the metal is then said to be active. rebedding. As shown in the abbreviated galvanic table on page This 4mm (5/32") diameter bolt 29, passive stainless is more cathodic than active cracked due to pitting corrosion (anodic) stainless. when removed for periodic inspection. It corroded due There are significant differences in susceptibility to to prolonged contact corrosion among the many grades of stainless steel pro- with a wood beam duced. Marine-grade stainless has higher levels of supporting the sail- chromium, nickel and/or molybdenum than do lower boat’s traveler. (continued on page 29) 1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 27 Centerboard pivot pins are sub- Maintenance ject to both crevice and pitting corrosion.They should be pulled A single pit, barely with increasing frequency as a visible between the boat ages and inspected under threads of this stain- a magnifying glass. If corrosion less steel marine- is found, the pin should be grade nonmagnetic replaced. screw, led to failure as the fastener was being cleaned on a wire wheel.

From left to right: Stainless-steel stuffing box hose clamp, barbed tee, traveler bolt, wood screw, bowsprit bolt and centerboard pivot pin.All failed or were removed from service due to various forms of self-corrosion.

Pitting corrosion may initiate stress Some marine fittings, like this inexpensive and fatigue cracking.This 12mm- towing ring, are actually chromed zinc (pot (1/2"-) thick backstay chainplate metal) or Zamak (a zinc-aluminum alloy). cracked due to pitting corrosion The threaded studs cast into this fitting are when it was subjected to cold bend- not marine-grade stainless.They have ing to better align it with the back- wasted due to crevice corrosion caused by stay. elevated moisture in the boat’s transom. Zamak fittings are poorly suited to the marine environment and are best avoided.

It doesn’t take much pitting corrosion to seriously Propeller stuffing box hose clamps are susceptible to weaken a chainplate. Once pitting has started it has a immersion corrosion in stagnant water.The presence of tendency to penetrate deeply into the metal, much like salt increases the electrical conductivity of bilge water termite damage in wood. Note that the affected areas and breaks down the protective oxide film formed by the on both fittings are located at the point where they pen- metal.Always inspect the underside of hose clamps etrate the deck molding. Crevice corrosion is also fre- exposed to bilge water.While the upper portion of this quently found on the face of chainplates fitted against a clamp appeared to be undamaged, the lower portion had damp bulkhead or hull structure. turned into a metallic lace and broke.

28 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 grade alloys. Marine-grade stainless is also non-magnetic or has a very low level of magnetism; lower grade stainless is always magnetic with its higher percentage of ferrous metal in the alloy mixture. The various stainless alloys are identified by number. Type 304 is widely used in marine applications for fasteners, fittings and rigging. Type 316 and more specialized alloys like Aquamet 22 and Nitronic 50 have greater corrosion resistance than 304, however, they are also more Corrosion fatigue (premature fracture) happens when self- expensive, and not necessarily as strong as 304. corrosion occurs simultaneously with recurring stress. Cracks tend to originate at or near the surface as seen in this pro- Corrosion resistance and strength requirements are two peller shaft. Note the polished groove caused by over-tighten- very separate issues. High corrosion resistance does not ing the stuffing box. Splatter from the leaking stuffing box translate to increased strength. combined with repeated torsional stress has produced a single When considering the various forms of stainless long crack and numerous shorter ones just forward (to the right) of the stuffing box.This damage could have been steel self-corrosion identified in the photos in this article, avoided through proper stuffing box maintenance. [Ed: For the word “insidious” comes to mind. Knowledgeable details, see “Stuffing Box Repacking” in DIY 1999-#2 issue.] boatowners can minimize the risks associated with stainless steel through the selection of appropriate marine- grade alloys, surface cleaning and polishing, proper bedding of fittings and fasteners, periodic disassembly and inspection, and timely replacement. [Ed: DIY recom- mends removing all hardware and rebedding at least every 10 years.]

About the author: Susan Canfield is a marine surveyor with Marine Associates in Annapolis Maryland. Resources Crevice corrosion occurs wherever stagnant oxygen-deficient “The Boatowner’s Guide to Corrosion,” Everett Collier, moisture collects, such as at swaged terminal fittings, closed- International Marine, 2001 barrel turnbuckles, threaded fittings and chainplates. Fittings like this swaged terminal, simultaneously subject to static ten- “Metal Corrosion in Boats,” Nigel Warren, Sheridan sile stress and exposure to a corrosive environment, are also House, 1998 susceptible to stress corrosion cracking. It’s best to avoid the use of plastic rigging and turnbuckle covers that trap moisture and other corrosives, prevent good rainwater washing and also ABBREVIATED GALVANIC SERIES sabotage periodic inspection. IN FLOWING SEAWATER Cathodic/Most Noble Potential in Millivolts Graphite +200 > +300 Aquamet 22/Nitronic 50 SS shafting -250 > +60 316 SS (2% Mo) passive -100 > 0.0 Monel (70% Ni, 30% CU) -140 > -40 304 SS passive -100 > -50 Lead -250 > -190 Silicon Bronze -290 > -260 316 SS active in still water -540 > -430 Type 304 and 316 stainless steels contain carbon. Differential heating of the metal in the area of a weld, such as those in 304 SS active in still water -580 > -460 this barbed tee causes the chromium to combine with carbon Iron/Steel -710 > -600 rather than oxygen, defeating its passivating film-forming role. Aluminum -1000 > -760 These areas become anodic relative to the rest of the metal, Zinc -1030 > -980 causing it to corrode.This form of self-corrosion is called weld Magnesium -1630 > -1600 decay or intergranular corrosion.Weld decay can be avoided by heating objects that have been welded to about 1,050°C Anodic/Least Noble Potential in Millivolts (1,920°F) and then rapidly cooling them. For large objects like tanks where this is impractical, a special low-carbon stainless Adapted from the “American Boat & Yacht Council’s Standards and alloy (identified by the letter “L” after its number, such as Technical Information Reports for Small Craft” (7/2001), E-2 304L or 316L) should be used. Cathodic Protection

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 29 UPGRADE THRUSTER FAQ Some things you should know about choosing, installing, operating and maintaining bow and stern thrusters.

[ By Jan Mundy ] W hile waiting out a storm in a Lake Erie harbor, I was awed as the skipper of a sailing yacht smartly reversed course 180° in a narrow channel to return to the lake when he realized the harbor was too small for his boat. I’ve since wit- Instead of being in a nessed many situations where a What are some of the selection Q: glassed-in tunnel, bow thruster made the difference factors when choosing a thruster? a stern thruster between maneuvering a boat with typically mounts ease and grace, or bump n’crunch, A: Major differences in thruster under the swim much like they park cars in Detroit. platform any- design include single or twin pro- where on the tran- Docking and handling a boat pellers, metal or composite pro- som provided it has in close quarters can be an pellers, tunnel sizes, power supply, enough water cover extremely anxious, stressful experi- either electric or hydraulic, and and the water jet doesn’t hit an obstruction, such as an outdrive. ence for able operators. When retractable or nonretractable (the for- backing into a slip, for example, mer sits flush with the hull when not position the stern in close quarters, the stern is controlled somewhat by in use). A desirable option is a time or you want to “parallel” park, liter- the propeller and rudder, but cur- delay. When changing thruster ally walking the boat sideways into rent and wind can rapidly take directions, this device allows enough the slip. charge of the bow. Unless condi- time for the propeller to come to a tions are ideal, many skippers opt full stop, about two seconds, before With twin engines I can “walk” not to leave the dock. A bow changing direction. This takes a Q: thruster can transfer control back to major shock load off the drive train, my boat perfectly into a slip. Why the helmsperson, restoring confi- which prolongs the life of the do I need a thruster? dence and enhancing ability. “Even thruster. A: Know matter how skillful you experienced professional captains are, it’s difficult to steer on a windy like to have a thruster on a windy Q: What are the operating differ- day or in a strong current using only day,” says John Mardall of Vetus ences between a bow and stern den Ouden (Tel: 410/712-0740; the engines. A thruster provides thruster? complete control of a boat’s head- Email: [email protected]; Web: www. ing, regardless of the conditions and vetus.com). “Once you have driven When backing into a slip, con- A: may mean the difference between a boat with a thruster, you’ll never trol of the bow can be lost to a going boating or staying at the have another boat without one.” crosswind or cross current, so you dock. In unfamiliar harbors of If you’re considering adding a would usually put the bow thruster unknown current activity, or where thruster, here’s what you need to on first. A stern thruster becomes slips are tight and you need perfect know about selection, proper instal- helpful when backing into either a control of your boat, a thruster gives lation and routine maintenance. very tight slip, where you have to you the “edge.”

30 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 most boats but can be farther for- mum turning moment, but with ade- ward depending on the underwater quate water depth over the top of hull shape. It’s always best to select the tube. There are also minimum a larger thruster than scale down to tube lengths as specified by the one that delivers minimal perfor- manufacturer. Once a suitable loca- mance in adverse conditions. While tion is found on the outside of the equipment cost is marginally higher, boat, it’s common to discover that there isn’t much difference in installa- the tunnel will pass through a bulk- tion charges between sizes. When head or tank. Final tunnel placement selecting a thruster, consider this rule is often a compromise between the of thumb: What will it take to stop installation criteria and modifications my boat’s bow dead in the water in to the boat’s interior. a 20-knot cross wind? Q: How difficult is it to retrofit a Q: What are the differences thruster? between electrical and hydraulic thrusters? A: Installation of the tunnel isn’t

VETUS complicated but it must be done by A: Length of run time is the main Take control: (top) To move the bow to difference. Electrical units run on 12- port, a bow thruster uses a side direc- or 24-volt DC power and, depend- tional force out the starboard side; (middle) Stern thruster directed to port, ing on the unit, have a maximum moves the stern to starboard; (bottom) run time of three to five minutes. Operate the stern and bow thruster Considering that a normal thruster simultaneously to parallel park or burst is between five and 10 sec- “walk” the boat. onds, limited continuous duty should not be a concern provided the Q: Does a thruster increase hull proper size thruster is selected for Tunnel installation is not a job to be tackled by the uninitiated. drag and reduce speed? your boat. Hydraulic units are much more expensive and can run contin- A: To eliminate drag in a planning an installer experienced in structural uously. Their installation makes fiberglass repairs. Once the tube is boat, the tunnel is positioned, if pos- sense on a larger boat that is in, the actual installation of the sible, so it’s completely out of the already rigged for hydraulics with thruster and wiring is relatively easy. water when the boat is on plane. In an engine-drive pump. Routing wires and control cables displacement powerboats or sail- often involves removing the cabin boats, the water in the tube is not Q: What is the purchase price of a headliner and some cabin furniture compressible, so there is very little thruster and the installation cost? and cutting access through bulk- measurable drag. If you’re really heads. You’ll save money if you do concerned, consider adding an eye- A: An electric unit for a 9m (30') this work yourself. brow fairing in front of the tube, or powerboat or sailboat averages Most thrusters can be installed a scallop behind the tube. US$2,000. Cost of a professional in any position in the tube from verti- installation ranges from US$2,000 cal to horizontal. It’s much easier to Q: Once you’ve decided to pur- to US$4,000, depending on yard install and service the thruster when chase a thruster, how do you deter- haul out and labor rates, and the the powerhead is mounted vertically. mine what size? amount of interior renovation Many boatbuilders don’t do this as required. it takes up more room, but where it’s A: Manufacturers provide detailed an option, it’s the best choice. If formulae for calculating thruster size, Q: What determines mounting loca- installed within 30° of horizontal, a which are mostly based on boat tion of a bow thruster? support is needed under the motor length, displacement, windage to prevent movement in a pounding caused by the height of superstruc- A: Correct tunnel placement is the sea. As a practical matter, the ture and where it will be mounted single most critical factor. It must be thruster should be positioned in the relative to the turning point or center located as far forward in the boat tunnel within reach from one end to of rotation, which is the transom on as possible to generate the maxi- replace zincs, propeller, etc. It’s

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 31 Upgrade

desirable to have an access hatch from the boat interior directly over the thruster powerhead to enable servicing. This is another item often overlooked by production boatbuilders.

Q: What power system upgrades are needed with an electric thruster?

A: Thrusters have powerful DC electric motors that draw a lot of current, from 100 amps to 600 amps. The most practical and cost-effective set-up is to power the thruster from a dedicated battery bank situated as close to the unit as possible. This allows for short cable runs and simplifies installation. Powering a thruster off the house bank commonly involves long runs of large cable to prevent power loss. Sometimes these large cables are difficult to route through the boat. The cost of the cables may be more than the batteries, and the labor to route same may cost more than both the batteries and cables. You will also have to address the charging needs of a dedicated battery bank. The number and size of batteries depends on the size of the thruster and will be specified by the manufacturer. Completely sealed, maintenance-free AGM batteries are ideal for this application. Though expensive, they can take a large number of deep discharge cycles. If installing a separate charger dedicated to the thruster battery bank, it’s good practice to upgrade to 24 volts. You’ll get a longer running time and because of the high voltage, less energy is used up producing heat.

Q: What happens if something jams the thruster?

A: Most thrusters have a fail-safe device, either a shear pin or spline in the drive train, which breaks when an obstruction stops the propeller and before the gears are damaged. In most cases, pins are easily replaced from inside the boat. Be sure to carry spares.

Q: What’s the best way to learn how to handle a boat with a bow thruster?

A: Do a trial run at the dock. Tie the boat securely to the dock with some slack in the lines and lots of fenders, then run the thruster in short bursts to get the feel for changes in boat direction. Just a light tap is all that’s needed to pivot the bow. Next, practice moving the boat in open water, say around a buoy. The more you use the thruster before you need it in an emergency, the better. When docking, go slowly. Don’t approach the dock at 7 knots and expect to have control.

32 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 S AILBOAT -RIGGING- General view Bottom close-up. Note sheave. Light winch

DON’T BE FOILED 2 BY FOILS Pennant thru-hull

Centerboards, swing or lift- Water-tight 1 Up conduit ing keels are often over- Pivot pin accessible outside boat Down Pennant looked components on sail- 3 External ballast boats. Carefree operation keel with slot View into requires this equipment be centerboard box. inspected and maintained Note corrosion. during every haulout. External Style Case Centerboard case is incorporated in the Here’s how to remove, external ballast keel and has a light centerboard. repair and reinstall. Example: CS22, Redline 25 [ Story and photos by Nick Bailey ] Lube Points: 1 Pivot pin (many models have a bushing that requires no lubrication) 2 Winch pauls and bearings A boat with a centerboard gives 3 Cable the benefits of shallow draft and Typical Centerboard Pennant Attachment at Board the windward performance of a deep keel in one neat package. Strictly speaking, a centerboard (foil) does not carry the boat’s primary ballast. This retractable under- Heavy duty Medium duty Light duty water foil is designed to provide lat- eral resistance only. Ballast is in the form of a shallow keel or in some cases carried internally. A popular

model has a ballasted iron swing Heavy trailer keel. A retractable foil that also car- 2 type winch ries all or most of the ballast is more GUY DRINKWALTER correctly referred to as a lifting keel. Centerboard box All the configurations have advan- Water line 3 tages such as flexibility and mobility, 1 Centerboard pennant and ease in launching and retrieval thru-hull Pivot pin from a trailer. On the con side, the accessible inside boat Centerboard pennant more moving parts, the higher the attachment at board 363kg (800lb) ballast centerboard maintenance and repair costs.

Wear Factors Centerboard thru- hull: (left) top view; Any centerboard, swing or lifting Internal Style Case (right) bottom view. keel incorporates underwater mov- Boat has internal or water ballast and a light swing keel. Example: MacGregor 24 ing parts. A typical centerboard usu- Boat has a heavy centerboard that doubles as a ballast keel. Example: Sirius 21 ally swings up and down on a pivot Lube Points: pin. The pin can wear, corrode or 1 Pivot pin seize. This never happens at a good 2 Winch pauls and bearings time. To lift the board, a wire pen- 3 Cable

34 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 nant is usually led through the hull and is attached to the lower aft trailing edge. The inboard end of the pennant leads to a winch or block and tackle system. This wire eventually corrodes, wire strands break, wire kinks, jumps a sheave or the assembly jams from some other malfunc- tion or wear. A lifting keel usually runs straight up and down on guide rails and has all the lifting mechanism components inside the boat. There are a variety of keel lift mecha- nisms. Some are simple, some are intricate, but all must handle heavy loads.

Keel bolts 12 volt electric winch driving worm gear lift

Forward plastic slider 1 bearing bolted to I-beam Aft plastic slider bearing 2 incorporates worm gear 2 drive nut I-beam

Forward guide / Aft guide / support tube support tube (fixed top and bottom)

Keel

Centerboard box capped water-tight by I-beam when keel is fully lowered Keel bolt Keel raised for trailering only Plastic slider I-beam bearing

Keel Heavy wall aluminum tube GUY DRINKWALTER Complex Lifting Keel Keel is kept in the lowered position and raised only for trailering. Example: C&C Mega 30 Lube Points: 1 Worm gear 2 Plastic sliders

Removable keel lifting davit with block and tackle

Less than 30cm (12") keel up Keel trailer position only

1.5m (5') draft keel down Simple Lifting Keel Example: Melges 24 No lubrication required,Teflon spray optional.

Various electrically driven worm gears, hydraulics, etc. get the job done easily when working properly. When a breakdown occurs, getting the keel back up (or down) manually can be a real struggle. That’s when a good manual back-up system is a must have. All this gear is subject to wear, corrosion and derangement due to running aground. If nasty surprises are to be avoided it must be kept in top operating condition.

A Fouled Case Some centerboard boats were not meant to live on the

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 35 Sailboat Rigging retracted inside the case, it’s invisible in poor condition and a lot of rust is and inaccessible because of the low evident be prepared to strip the cen- position of the boat on the trailer. If terboard to bare bright metal with a water full time. They were intended you want to enjoy the convenience of grinder followed by a rotary wire to be “dry” sailed and stored on a a wet mooring as well as the mobility brush to clean out the pitting. If trailer. Nonetheless, owners like to of a trailer you must be prepared at available sand blasting is the ideal leave the boat in the water, the least once a year to have the boat paint prep. board always in the down position, lifted high enough to fully lower the and ready to go. Rarely is antifoul- centerboard for inspection, mainte- • Apply at least two coats of a ing paint applied to the interior of nance, and application of whatever good epoxy anticorrosion primer the centerboard case. The area is protective coatings are necessary. such as Amercoat/Devo Bar-rust, simply inaccessible for coating. This Awlgrip 545, Interlux Interprotect results in fouling problems caused by Yearly Upkeep 2000 or even straight epoxy resin. marine organisms proliferating in the Use this checklist when performing case, sometimes called a “trunk.” annual service of a board or lifting • Prep sand and repaint antifouling Tough armored critters like bar- keel. Call the boat’s manufacturer or as needed. Make an extension tool nacles (in saltwater) and zebra mus- a professional if you’re in doubt to reach inside the centerboard case sels (in the freshwater) thrive in cen- about the particular needs of your if necessary (see “Easy Extension terboard cases. Consider this classic boat. Tool” on page 38). scenario. You’re struggling to get the boat onto the trailer and you see Wet Moored Centerboard that the board is still not all the way Boats up. You ponder the problem, but • Check for fouling on centerboard decide to drive home anyway. What and inside case. Scrape out as could happen? After a short dis- needed. tance of jouncing on the trailer the board gets crushed farther into the • If centerboard is steel or iron, centerboard trunk, past all the rock inspect for corrosion. If coatings are hard critters and into what is now a nearly permanent “full up” position; All Centerboard Boats something you may not notice until • Lower and raise the board or keel the next sail when the boat refuses a few times to inspect the entire to go to windward and the board mechanism. won’t budge. Diagnosing or fixing center- • Check the pivot pin to ensure it boards, or even applying antifouling, moves freely. Lubricate with a mois- can be impractical if the boat is ture-displacing lubricant or Teflon stored on a trailer during the off-sea- spray. son. With the centerboard fully PIVOT PIN WEAR How Much is Too Much? This may be difficult to judge. All centerboards have some play at the pivot pin, some more than others. Use common sense and look for worsening play during haul out. If in doubt block the board securely and lift it with wedges to take the weight off the pin. Then remove the pin for inspection or replacement under a preventive maintenance program. For many external centerboard cases, the pin may be hidden under fairing putty on the ballast keel. In saltwater it will likely be corroded and difficult to remove. —NB

36 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 • When board is down, shake it to check for excessive wear and play at the pivot pin. If it wob- bles badly the pin may need to be replaced or re- bushed.

• Carefully inspect the entire pennant length for broken strands; cracked or corroded swages; worn or flat spotted blocks or guide sheaves. Replace any worn or damaged components. Grease the centerboard pennant cable with waterproof grease.

• Inspect and lubricate the pennant winch with grease or a Teflon spray.

Lifting Keels Inspect keel lift slide rails and bearing pads. Keel lift bear-

ing pads are almost always plastic, heavy-duty polyethylene or Teflon. Lubricate as specified by the manufacturer.

• Inspect lift mechanism for wear. Lube as recommended. Don’t use petroleum-based lubricants, which are messy. A Teflon spray such as McLube Sailkote, Captain Phab Dry Teflon or similar can help.

• Follow all maintenance instructions as specified by the manufacturer.

Service Accessibility If you plan to store your boat off-season at the same facility where you also moor it, check if haul out and relaunch is included in the storage fee. Where there is no extra charge or a nominal charge, it makes sense to invest in a conventional storage cradle that is tall enough to allow inspection and maintenance of the centerboard. If you have no option but to store on the trailer, you’ll need to book a lift and a tall temporary cradle or stands to do your annual maintenance. The same goes for larger cen-

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 37 terboard yachts as well. Just make sure the ballast keel and hull are well supported. For owners who don’t wet moor and launch the boat only for use, fouling is not a problem but you’ll still need an occasional lift to inspect the system or repair a pennant or service a sticking pivot pin.

About the author: Nick Bailey is a 25-year veteran of the boat repair business and is service manager of Bristol Marine in Mississauga, Ontario.

EASY EXTENSION TOOL Follow these instructions to make an extension tool for sanding and painting the centerboard case. Cut a stiff sponge into the dimensions as shown, then using a knife cut a 38mm by 76mm (1-1/2" by 3") slot into the bottom edge. Insert a wood handle sized to fit the slot. A paint paddle (stir stick) fits well. Drill two small holes through the handle and sponge, and fasten together with bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten so fasteners are recessed into sponge. For sanding, wrap a 1/2 sheet of sandpaper over the sponge top GUY DRINKWALTER and staple bottom edge to the handle. Use without sandpaper and the sponge makes a great paintbrush. Be careful not to overload the “brush” with paint to reduce drips. (This can be a sloppy job.) Alternatively, duct tape a regular brush to an extension handle. — NB

38 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 BB UYINGUYING RR IGHTIGHT A Surveyor’s Perspective

Sails Standing rigging

Railings and lifelinesPortlights and hatchesStress cracks Head and holding tank Galley PlumbingWiring Batteries

Ventilation

Hull-deck joint Heating & air conditioning

Deck non-skid Fuel tanks

Bilges Rudder Stress cracks Osmotic blisters

Grounding damage Drive train Propeller GUY DRINKWALTER There are some great buys on used boats if you know own the boat will help establish an what to look for. A marine surveyor explains how to age range for desirable candidates. Typically, the older the boat, the more evaluate a boat’s systems and performance before mak- it will cost you to upgrade and main- ing a purchase offer. tain it. If you lack the skills and/or time needed for repairs and normal [ Story and photos by Susan Canfield ] ers don’t know what to look for; oth- service maintenance, be sure to con- ers don’t bother. sider the cost of having others do this he process of buying a used boat If you want to avoid the unneces- essential work for you. You can’t T is often an emotional experience. sary delays and expense that accom- escape maintenance costs: Either It involves considerable risk too, espe- pany multiple surveys, make sure that you’ll pay when the work is per- cially for inexperienced buyers. Even your marine surveyor is not the first formed or pay (often more) in depre- experienced boaters can make criti- person to inject some objectivity into ciated value when you sell the boat. cal mistakes while boat shopping that your boat selection. Use the accom- Use references like the cost them time, money and unneces- panying checklists to guide you in “PowerBoat Guide” or “Mauch’s sary stress. Doing your homework your search. The knowledge you gain Sailboat Guide” or consult your sur- beforehand is key to being a happy in the process will pay big dividends veyor (see “How to Choose A boat buyer. If you skip the fundamen- as long as you own your boat. Surveyor?” on page 43) to generate tals, you may regret the day you signed that purchase contract. Getting your Bearings TIPBOAT BUYING STEP 1 As a marine surveyor, I’m Before you go shopping, consider Don’t wait until you’ve signed on the dotted line amazed by some of the major prob- how you plan to use the boat, such to find a qualified marine surveyor. Do the self- lems I encounter during pre-purchase as for fishing, water-skiing, racing or survey, following the checklists on page 42, and surveys, problems that cause the cruising, and where you plan to boat engage a surveyor when you begin to look for prospective buyer to walk, or even in protected waters, along the coast that dreamboat. Surveyors know which boats do run away from the deal. Problems vir- or offshore. Focus your search on what and how well the various brands and mod- tually any prospective buyer can and boats designed to suit your perfor- els mature. Discuss your expectations and con- should discover before making a pur- mance needs and your budget. sider the surveyor’s advisories when you start. chase offer. Unfortunately, many buy- Knowing how long you expect to — Patrica Kearns

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 39 PRE-Purchase Survey TOOLS OF THE TRADE a list of boats that meet your selection Use a plastic-headed mallet or the criteria. Then, gather additional infor- plastic handle of a screwdriver to test mation on each of the boats on your the deck molding for delamination. list. Use a three-ring notebook or file Listen for the degree of vibration gen- folders to organize this information erated each time you strike the deck. for future reference. Read boat If the molding is delaminated, you’ll reviews, visit manufacturer’s websites hear a dull thud rather than a sharp and contact owners’ associations. A ring. Delamination due to moisture great deal of useful information can intrusion is most frequently found near be found using Internet search load bearing fasteners that penetrate engines. My favorite is www.google. the deck core. com. Just enter the make and model Look in the bilge! The rudder stuffing of boat you’re interested in. You’ll box on this trawler is located below find boat reviews, boats for sale, the steering quadrant, visible here at owners’ associations, boat manufac- the bottom of the lazarette. A flash- turers and more. You can access used light and mirror will be needed to boat prices via the BUC and NADA actually see the stuffing box. websites. I find it more helpful, how- Prospective buyers will want to wear ever, to look at the printed versions of loose fitting clothing suitable for climb- these price guides so I can readily ing into sometimes grimy compart- see the full range of values for any ments. given boat’s production run. Both price guides are found in the refer- This trawler has an elaborate fuel fil- ence section of many public libraries. tering system; detailed labeling is pro- Know your Options vided to help the operator. Acoustical tiles that line the engine compartment Once you’ve developed a list of likely also encloses the fuel tanks, making candidates, contact several marine visual inspection without disassembly lenders if you expect to finance your impossible. purchase. Gather information on loan rates based on a hypothetical exam- A good flashlight and mirror are ple drawn from your list of candi- essential when checking for exhaust dates. Don’t forget to ask for the system leaks and deteriorated piping names of recommended surveyors in and clamps. According to ABYC stan- your area. Next, contact the appro- dards, each section of exhaust hose priate government agencies to deter- should be double clamped. mine government registration or documentation requirements, applicable taxes and fees, and any equipment their website. ors. Both marinas and yacht brokers requirements unique to your intended Where will you keep the boat? If have a potential conflict of interest operating area. Much of this informa- needing a slip, call several marinas when recommending surveyors. If the tion can be obtained via the Internet. to obtain a copy of their rate sheet names they provide differ significantly Contact several marine insurance for skilled and unskilled labor, haul- from those you receive from lenders, companies to gather information on ing, storage and launching, slip avail- underwriters and experienced boatown- rates and policies. When planning to ability and a sample rental contract. ers, beware. Honest marina managers buy a boat under 9m (26') in length, If they have a list of recommended and yacht brokers will typically recom- contact your homeowner’s insurance surveyors, ask for a copy. Next, visit mend several experienced National company for a quote. Many marine several yacht brokerages to assess Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS) insurance companies maintain lists of their professionalism, experience and or Society of Accredited Marine surveyors whose reports they readily specialization if applicable. Review a Surveyors (SAMS) affiliated surveyors or accept. Some, like BoatUS (www. sample purchase agreement. Ask for other highly regarded non-affiliated sur- boatus.com), post this information on the names of recommended survey- veyors.

40 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 Contact several of the surveyors rec- from side-to-side. If the shaft rattles, rudder stuffing box for evidence of ommended to you. Ask about their experi- the cutless bearing is worn and leakage. On sailboats, look for evi- ence and specialization, if any. Obtain a needs replacing. [Ed: See “Drive dence of weeping from the hull-keel sample pre-purchase survey report and Train Tune-up” in 2002-#1 issue for joint or keel and rudder moldings. fee information. (See “How to Choose A step-by-step bearing servicing.] On deck, look for cracks in the Surveyor?” on page 43.) Note the condition of the pro- gelcoat. Sound the deck molding for Now, armed with all the information peller, and drive casing on out- evidence of delamination. Check the you’ve gathered, calculate the actual cost board- and sterndrive-powered condition of the non-skid. Do the of buying a boat. Start with the approxi- boats. Corrosion, oil leaks and hatches and portlights show evidence mate purchase price, applicable taxes impact damage here are clues to of deterioration? Are lifeline stan- and registration fees, and costs of the sur- problems. Check rudders for evi- chions and/or railings secure? Check vey, including a haulout. Estimate your dence of corrosion and check the powerboat transoms for delamina- annual expenses including (as applicable) loan payments, insurance, slip rental, maintenance and repairs. Consider setting aside additional money to upgrade the boat after purchase for such items as new electronics, upholstery, etc. Explore, Examine, Investigate Your next step is to assemble a basic boat inspection kit that includes a good flashlight, a plastic-headed mallet or plastic-handled screwdriver for percussion soundings, clipboard, paper and pens, and the checklists on page 42. Include a camera and inspection mirror. Here’s where invest- ing in a digital or video camera can be justified. Start your inspection by looking at the boat as it floats in the water. Does the boat list to port or starboard? Does it float bow or stern down? If blocked ashore, a scum line at or near the waterline will often indi- cate a boat’s list or trim. Is the hull symmetrical? Is there evidence of grounding or collision damage? If the boat is blocked ashore, sound the hull below the waterline with a plastic- headed mallet or the plastic handle of a screwdriver to test for delamination. The pitch of percussion soundings will vary as you pass over bulkheads, tanks, or other structural elements. Listen for the degree of vibration generated each time you strike the hull. If the molding is delaminated, you’ll hear a dull thud rather than a sharp ring. Note the average size and distribution of any hull blisters. On boats with inboard engines, grasp the end of the propeller shaft and try to move it up-and-down and

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 41 tion. Note the condition of all canvas, PRE-PURCHASE CHECKLIST Symmetry at rest such as a dodger, bimini, cockpit Collision or grounding damage cover or enclosure. Use this checklist to determine the Percussion sounding On sailboats, check the condition boat’s general condition and quality, Osmotic blisters of the mast and the mast step. If the and help you spot potential prob- Cutlass bearing mast is stepped on deck, check the lems affecting value and safety. Propeller condition of the compression post that Weeping supports it. Look for deformation and Planning is Everything Corrosion corrosion problems. Check wire Initial Considerations Transom shrouds and stays for broken strands How do you plan to use the boat? Deck and cracked terminal fittings. Is the How long do you expect to own it? Stress cracks standing rigging original or have Do you have the skills, interest and Percussion sounding there been replacements? Is the run- time to repair and maintain it? Non-skid ning rigging worn or mildewed? How much can you afford to spend Hatches and portlights/windows Consider the number and age of per year? Lifelines, stanchions and railings sails. Determine the type and general Background Research Canvas condition of the steering system. Boat reviews Rig (sail only) Evaluate visibility from the helm. Owners’ associations Standing rigging Moving belowdecks, check for Used boat price guides Running rigging odors (fuel, waste or mildew). Contact lenders Sails Evaluate the boat’s passive and pow- Loan rates ered ventilation systems. Look for evi- Surveyors’ list Steering dence of water intrusion at hatches, Contact Government Agencies Rudder portlights and load bearing deck Registration/documentation required Stuffing box hardware (chainplates, cleats, wind- Taxes and titling fees Steering system lass, etc.). Are fabrics and finishes Equipment requirements Visibility from the helm water stained? Do settee and berth Contact Underwriters Interior (continued on page 44) Insurance rates Odor Surveyors’ list Ventilation Contact Brokers Evidence of water intrusion Abnormal wear Experience/focus Bilges Sample contract Surveyors’ list Engine Contact Marinas External condition Oil Rate sheet Stuffing box Slip availability Exhaust system Sample contract Fuel tank/system Surveyors’ list Electrical Contact Surveyors Batteries Experience/focus Wiring Sample survey Control panels Fees Shorepower connector Costs of Ownership Mortgage rates Pumps & Piping Taxes and fees Potable water tank/system Insurance rates Waste holding tank/system Dockage or mooring expenses Dewatering systems Surveyor’s fee Domestic Systems Upgrade costs Galley stove Maintenance costs Icebox/refrigeration 10-Point Self Survey Heating/air conditioning Exterior Hull Safety Equipment Attitude at rest Coast guard required equipment

42 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 HOW TO CHOOSE A SURVEYOR? Marine surveyors are not solely on reputation, and good reputations don’t A surveyor is only as good as the value of the licensed, and their activi- come cheap. You wouldn’t chose the cheapest survey report. Fast turnaround on the survey brain surgeon if you needed brain surgery. Same report is not necessarily to your advantage. In ties are not regulated. goes for a surveyor. these days of expectations for instant communica- Their competence is based So, what defines “qualified?” Does the sur- tions, marine survey reports are like medical lab solely on reputation. Here veyor have a license? How much will the survey test reports. Good procedures take time to do and cost? How long will it take? Ask the surveyor for a results take time to analyze. That’s the only kind are the facts you need to resume of experience that includes his or her of survey you want. Unless someone is standing in access when choosing a training and professional certifications and refer- line behind you to buy this boat, take time to qualified surveyor. ences. The lack of an affiliation or professional gather and digest the information you need. Also, certification does not preclude excellent reputa- make sure your lender and insurance companies [ By Patricia Kearns ] tion. In surveying, it’s reputation, reputation, and accept the surveyor’s work. reputation. Ask for the surveyor’s scope (in writ- If you hear a surveyor’s name come up consis- Okay. You’ve set your sights on a fishing boat and ing) of the inspection process and what you need tently as a “best in class,” remember only one the broker gave you the name of his favorite sur- to do to make sure the boat is ready for the look thing. Reputation, reputation, reputation. veyor. You have a friend who knows a lot about see. Interview the surveyor personally. He or she boats who said he could do the job. Either fellow works for you and only you. Costs vary regionally. About the author: A NAMS certified surveyor with an enviable “reputation,” Patricia Find out what you get for your money. can get to it today. What’s to lose? More than Kearns has 30 years marine experience, your shirt. It could be a big pile of money or, at That brings us to agendas. The only one you including assistant technical director with worst, your life. need is yours! The broker quite properly repre- ABYC and, most recently, as executive direc- In North America, there are no laws that regu- sents the seller’s interests as the seller pays the tor of American Boat Builders & Repairers sales commission. If a broker is pushing a sur- Association). She recently formed late marine surveyors. It’s not like picking a doc- Recreational Marine Experts Group tor, lawyer or accountant that are licensed to prac- veyor, be wary. It’s likely not in your agenda’s (www.marinexperts.com) based in Naples, tice. In choosing a marine surveyor, you must rely best interests. Florida.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 43 cushions show abnormal wear given the age of the boat? Check the bilges tor standing water, oil, fuel, etc. Examine seacock operation. Note the external condition of the engine. Look for corrosion and evidence of fuel, oil and water leaks. Ask for a copy of the engine maintenance log. If the boat is in storage ashore, check to see if the oil was changed at layup. Does the engine intake seacock operate? Does the propeller shaft stuffing box (inboard engines) show evidence of leakage? Check the boat’s fuel and exhaust systems for leaks. Is the fuel tank original or a replacement? If necessary, how difficult would it be to replace the fuel tank? In evaluating the boat’s electrical system, start with the batteries. Are the battery terminals tight and corrosion free? Is wiring throughout the boat generally neat, well supported and protected from chafe (good), or disorganized, dan- gling in the bilge and replete with wire nuts (a never-do on a boat)? Are all control switches clearly labeled? Does the shorepower connector show evidence of overheating? Check potable water tanks for evidence of leakage. If necessary, how difficult would it be to replace water tanks? Does the boat have a waste holding tank? If not, does it have a Coast Guard-approved waste treatment system (Type II MSD)? Do the waste system intake and discharge thru-hull seacocks operate? How many bilge pumps are there? If not electric, what fuel does the galley stove use? What type of refrigeration system (if any) is installed? Does the boat have a heating or air conditioning system? And last but not least, what safety equipment is included? Are there PFDs, flares, fire extinguishers, horn, etc? Check the DIY editorial archives (www.diy-boat. com/archives or call DIY for a copy) for past articles, back issues and CDs containing information on maintenance and service. Check your local bookstore, marine chandler or library for books on inspecting and/or buying a boat.

About the author: Marine surveyor Susan Canfield teaches “Surveying Fiberglass Boats,” a five-day seminar for boatowners, marine underwriters, claims adjusters, and marine professionals interested in surveying. The course is offered in Annapolis, Maryland and at WoodenBoat School in Brooklin, Maine. For further information, contact Marine Associates Inc. at 800/582-2922 or [email protected]. Resources Mauch’s Sailboat Guide, PO Box 32422, Jacksonville, FL 32237; 888/724- 5672; www.mauchs.com • PowerBoat Guide, American Marine Publishing Inc., PO Box 30577, Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33420; 800/832-0038, www.powerboat- guide.com • BUC Used Boat Price Guide, 1314 NE 17th Court, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33305; 800/327-6929; www.buc.com • NADA Marine Appraisal Guide, PO Box 7800, Costa Mesa, CA 92628, 800/966-6232, www.nadaguides. com • Canadian Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety, 200 Kent, 5th Floor, Ottawa, ON, K1A 0E6; 800/267-6687, www.ccggcc.gc.ca/ obs-bsn/main_e.htm • US Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety, www.uscgboating.org • National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS), PO Box 9306, Chesapeake, VA 23321; 800/822-6267, www.namsurveyors.org • Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (SAMS), 4605 Cardinal Blvd., Jacksonville, FL 32210; 800-344-9077, www.marinesurvey.org

44 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 MAINTENANCE

REPAIR STATEGIES

Not just for the surveyor anymore, find out how a $250 tool can save your boat.

[ Story and photos by Nick Bailey ]

T he story is always the same. A fiberglass boat is for sale. “She’s During a routine pre-launch moisture inspection, the author discovers a water mint!” says the owner or broker. soaked bow on his ‘60s vintage glass-over-ply Thunderbird. Sure enough, it looks to be in good shape but the buyer wisely insists on and expands. This frost heave can be detected before significant dam- a survey before inking the deal. Or damage the balsa or PVC foam age occurs? The only simple, non- perhaps your own boat requires a core structure and force the fiber- destructive detection method is a survey before you can get the insur- glass skins and core apart. In turn, moisture meter. This electronic tool is ance policy renewed. The surveyor’s this frost-induced delamination usually considered to be strictly for report comes back with a long list of makes it easier for water to spread use by the boat surveyor or repair minor problems and a few ominous throughout the core. Damaged shop. The alternative is to purchase paragraphs stating: “High moisture areas continue to expand as long as a moisture meter and do your own readings with indications of delami- water can gain entry. By the time diagnostic check a few times a year. nated core at the following loca- you notice the deck has a spongy For simple diagnostic work you tions.” feel under foot or you spot the don’t require an expensive unit. Armed with the survey report, dreaded brown ooze seeping out Strange as it may seem moisture you contact the local repair yard for from under a fastener on the deck meters were not developed for an estimate and are shocked to dis- head it’s already too late. At those marine use and most are not even cover the cost to repair the wet core locations, deterioration has already designed for use on fiberglass. This is a significant fraction of the boat’s reached an advanced state. tool is primarily used by lumber and value, and maybe exceeds it! Why? How can the insidious problem paper industries to gauge the dry- Unfortunately, wet and delaminated core can only be properly repaired by major surgery. The outer laminates must be cut away and the wet core in the affected areas replaced or at least dried out if it’s not too badly deteriorated. This is a time- consuming and expensive process. “I had no idea the boat had these problems,” is the owner’s lament. “Everything seemed fine.” All of which is probably true, but a leaking fitting may not show any visible signs as water seeps ever so slowly year after year, deep into the core. Once moisture gets into the core it can’t escape. In northern Examine deck fittings regularly with a moisture meter and rebed any that give a climes in winter, the moisture freezes high moisture level to prevent further damage.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 45 A high moisture reading signifies that water has entered the deck core.

ness of wood and paper. It also has a variety of uses in agriculture and the construction industry. This means you don’t necessarily have to pay “marine” prices to get your hands on one. Meters that are specifically adapted for marine use cost more and will give you a more quantified reading of relative moisture content. The more general- purpose meter can still give a useful reading but it probably is calibrated for lumber. Readings on fiberglass and core materials just under the outer skin will be relative readings or qualitative, which means they cover a range of wet here, dry over there, for example. Once you’ve tested the unit for sample readings on a variety of materials with known moisture levels, you’ll begin to understand how to interpret meter readings. Regardless, you’ll find places where moisture is sneaking into the core around leaky hardware on deck in time to rebed the fittings. If you find very high moisture over more than a few square inches, I recommend you call a surveyor or marine repair shop to assess the extent of the situation. Most older boats with cored decks have some moisture problems. Cored hulls are less prone to trouble simply because there are not as many holes drilled in them, but when trouble occurs in a cored hull it can be severe. Moisture meters are also useful on wood boats. This spring I thought I had a minor paint repair to do on the stem of my 40-year-old glass-over-ply Thunderbird. While casually checking the stem with the shop moisture meter (a rather battered GRP 33 model purchased from J.R. Overseas) prior to doing what I thought would be a touch- up, I discovered the whole bow above the waterline pegged the moisture meter. Apparently the forestay fitting had been leaking for some time. I ground back the paint, fiberglass and epoxy fairing filler to expose and dry the wet plywood. Then, with fear and loathing, I removed the dubious looking false stem and found to my relief that the massive stem timber was still fresh, though wet. If I had not checked with the moisture meter I would have been none the wiser, while the soaked stem slowly turned to rot. In this case, I was happy to do a fiberglass and epoxy and paint repair instead of replacing the stem timber.

46 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 Before checking alignment, be Step 1 sure the boat is properly blocked. Put the drive unit in the in (down) Depending on the size of your boat, position. Check the manual for gear P OWERBOAT making these adjustments will position (typically neutral). -RIGGING- require special boat lifting equip- Disconnect the power trim/tilt cylin- ment like a forklift or straddlelift with ders by removing both of the cylin- a qualified operator and crew. A der’s pivot pins (1). Secure the cylin- non-trailerable boat hull must be sup- ders up and out of the way to pre- STERN DRIVE ported equally all along the keel vent damaging the hydraulic lines and transom, while working on the sterndrive. REALIGNMENT keeping the Disconnect the speedometer hose fit- The engine, transom ting from the gear case housing. Remove the locknuts and washers assembly and sterndrive securing the drive unit to the transom of your engine must be in assembly (2). perfect alignment to pre- Grasp the drive at the end of the anticavitation plate (3: photo vent major engine damage. shows cylinders in place). Lift To align these components waterline par- it slightly and allow it to fall. The as part of your annual allel to the shock is usually enough to pop ground and the maintenance, you’ll need a the drive free of the housing. Do transom as level this several times until the drive custom tool, service man- as possible. Make starts to separate. Support the ual and some mechanical sure that there is drive while slowly sliding it off the know-how. nothing around the housing studs, until a gap of about engine area that could 25mm (1") appears between the [ Story and photos by Harry Swieca ] apply pressure on the hull. If the drive and the gimbal housing. boat is on a trailer, it’s very impor- In many cases, even after all the f you hear your engine knocking tant to support the hull equally at all I when cornering, then most likely points. Tilting the transom upward your engine and sterndrive (or out- allows easier removal of the stern- 1 drive) are no longer in proper align- drive while it’s in the down posi- ment. Engine alignment is critical. tion. If the trailer’s rollers compress Misalignment dramatically shortens the area under the engine, then the life span of the engine coupler, additional supports must be placed driveshaft splines, U-joint and gim- under the transom points to relieve bal bearing and results in high the compression. repair costs. Check alignment at Alignment involves removing least annually or as specified in your the outdrive and inserting an align- Power trim cylinders engine service manual, and each ment tool (about $150) into the gimbal bearing, then into the cou- time the sterndrive is removed for 2 service. pler, and adjusting engine mounts as needed. If you don’t have the proper tool, mechanical skills or knowledge, I recommend you take your boat to an authorized TIPFINE TUNING marine dealer. This work is best Before moving adjustment nuts on engine done during decommissioning mounts, draw a parallel line with white Liquid and takes about 2.5 hours to do. Locknuts Paper (a.k.a. White Out) on each nut and where Use the following directions as a and washers it touches the mount. This gives you a visual indi- generic guide and consult your cator of how far the nut has moved backward or service manual for more detailed forward of your reference line when realigning instructions. Carefully follow your engine. safety precautions outlined in — JM your manual prior to proceeding. MERCURY MARINE MERCURY

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 47 Powerboat Rigging 4 6

for aluminum shavings from a worn drive coupler embedded in the grease (as shown in the photo). large flat ring deep inside the gim- Either of these indicates that mis- bal housing. Replace the rubber bell- alignment has damaged the housing gasket if cracked or brittle. engine’s drive coupler, which now Photo shows rust on U-joint bellows caused by water intrusion (5). locking nuts have been removed, the must be replaced. If the shaft is in Using a flashlight inspect the sterndrive will not separate from the good condition, inspect inside the matching splines of the drive coupler gimbal housing. This is caused by bellows for rust or moisture or other for wear or other damage (6). Insert misalignment and can be a difficult signs of damage. If cracks are found your hand into the housing and problem to resolve. Cut wooden on the bellows, it should be grasp the center ring of the bearing shims into doorstop shaped wedges. replaced. On MerCruiser sterndrives and rotate it from side to side. It These are used to help separate the built since 1984, this requires an should operate smoothly without any drive. Don’t use metal wedges or exhaust bellows expander. This vibration. Consult your manual if the pry bars to separate the drive. These device holds the bellows in place bearing is difficult to move. damage the housing, resulting in while the hose clamp is being installed on the bell housing. This is water leaks and universal joint dam- Step 3 age. Insert wedges between the not a DIY job as the skills required drive and the gimbal housing, one call for an authorized marine With the basic checks out of the per side. As you lightly lift and drop dealer’s expertise. Now inspect the the drive, use a mallet to tap the gimbal bearing. The bearing is a 7 wedges deeper into the spacing. 5 Repeat this until the drive separates completely from the gimbal housing. Release the shift cable, and remove the drive. Step 2 Carefully inspect the splines on the U-joint shaft for excessive wear (4). Also check the edges of the splines way, the next process is the actual alignment. Check your manual for the proper part number of the tool used to check alignment. Usually it’s a 61cm- (2'-) long metal shaft 8

48 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 9 it’s dry, remove the lag bolts, and fill • During final adjustments, be sure the hole with epoxy to lock the top locking nut each time resin thickened to a you check shaft alignment. If you mayonnaise consis- don’t, the engine can change align- tency. Another option ment during final lockdown of the is to cut a pin of hard- nuts. wood dowel, of a • After completing final adjustments, diameter size so it fits snugly, then and confirming that the alignment glue and press it into the hole. Once shaft bottoms out (see Step 3), be MERCURY MARINE MERCURY cured, redrill the fastener holes. If sure to bend the securing tabs (if the supports are very wet or rotted, applicable) on the adjusting nuts approximately 38mm (1-1/2") in the engine must be removed, and back into place. diameter with several steps cut into the engine stringer supports rebuilt the shaft (7). or replaced. Step 5 Insert the small end of the shaft • Using a tape measure, record the With the alignment procedure com- into the gimbal housing and gently original distance from the engine pleted, reinstall the sterndrive push it through the bearing and into bracket down to the stringer. If you according to the manufacturer’s the drive coupler (8). It should move get the procedure confused, i.e. go instructions, using the proper lubri- easily until it bottoms out with a loud in the wrong direction, you have a cants. Be sure the knock (9). Do not force the shaft in point of return and can start the bell housing gasket as it binds easily, making removal process over. 12 very difficult. If the shaft goes in but • Open the locking tab (not on all doesn’t bottom out, the front of the mounts) on the engine mounts that engine needs to be adjusted up or secure the adjusting nuts before Gasket down until the shaft easily slides moving them. through the gimbal bearing and bot- • When making adjustments keep toms out in the coupler. track of your up or down position by counting each nut flat as you make Step 4 an adjustment (11) (or see “TIP” on

Engine adjustment is easy if you fol- page 47). This allows the mount to MARINE MERCURY low the rules. be returned to the starting position • Never adjust the motor while lean- in the event it was moved the wrong and water passage O-ring are prop- ing on it. way. erly positioned (12). Coat studs and threads with a suitable lubricant, • Be sure the mounting bolts for the 11 engine mounts are secure and such as Quicksilver 2-4-C lubricant torqued to spec. with Teflon. Coat drive unit pilot, U- • If lag bolts don’t tighten into the joint shaft O-rings and shaft splines stringer supports (engine beds), it’s with engine coupler spline grease time for a close inspection of the (or equivalent). Don’t force the drive support’s structure. Use a probe to unit into the bell housing. If the drive determine if the inner core of the doesn’t slide all the way in, you may stringer is dry, wet or rotted (10). If need to rotate the propeller shaft slightly to align the U-joint shaft 10 • If you cannot get the alignment cor- splines with the engine coupler rect you may have a failed engine splines. Be sure to use new locking mount or stringer of unequal height. nuts to secure the drive, and tighten them following the two-stage torque Boatbuilders use a jig available from procedure as described in your ser- the engine manufacturer to locate vice manual. Reconnect the trim engine mount heights. This tool does- cylinders, lubricating components as n’t measure from the stringer but uses outlined in your service manual. the “X” dimension as a reference About the author: Harry Swieca is a certified point. You’ll need an authorized mairne mechanic and is currently a marine dealer’s technician to do this. surveyor for Davis & Company.

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 49 Project boat A BARGAIN AT ANY PRICE Here’s how one intrepid DIYer with vision and determination transformed the hull and deck of a mid-80s production boat. With a plan, the right tools and materials and the know how to use them, he brought this boat to new life as a modern, well-appointed bowrider. [ By Jan Mundy ] [ Photos by Mark Yeates ]

What began as an inquiry on the DIY Technical Helpline in 1999 started a major boatbuilding project for Mark Yeates. A heart attack at 42 prompted his lifestyle change and the quest for a hobby to occupy his spare time during his recov- ery. Boatbuilding was a natural choice. Yeates worked for an industrial fabrication firm and had previously owned two boats. He purchased for $600 a bowrider hull and deck built Bought May 1999:A 4.9m (16'3") hull and deck that in the mid-80s. This was his first foray in boat refitting and closely resembles a Sea Ray he reconstructed “Knotty Thots” from the keel up. He adapted bowrider of mid-80s design. “A bargain at $600.” his industrial experience to the project, which is reflected in the non-typical applications of some materials and processes representative of amateur fiberglass boatbuilding. Because of his industrial background, some of the materials and processes are non-typical of amateur fiberglass boatbuilding. A very methodical man, Yeates documented every step, filling two binders with layouts, correspondence with suppliers, building schematics, cost analysis and photos. He perused parts catalogs and boating magazines and toured boat Launched June 2000:A family boat for tubing and water-skiing “Knotty Thots”afloat just 15 months later. “I guess it was shows for design ideas. Here is his story. good therapy cause I’m still feeling good.”

ark Yeates knew that a plan Wiring diagrams, deck hardware drilled for the eyebolts. M placement and other schematics fol- was essential to the success of 2 this project. Every boat project must lowed as well as a bill of materials. After cutting the inside edges of start with a plan. At least that’s the Since the deck-hull joint was visibly transom with a side grinder with a approach Mark Yeates took with his misaligned, he began reconstruction 14cm (5-1/2") diamond saw blade, project boat. His first task was to with the disassembly of the deck and the inner fiberglass laminate and measure and double-checked the hull. length, width and depth of the cock- 1 After drilling out pit, transom and hull. After a prelimi- hundreds of rivets, nary draft, all measurements were the deck is lifted off double-checked. From this he drew the hull revealing components to scale and began badly delaminated sketching interior layouts, about 10 of wood in the transom. them. Feedback from family and So bad that water friends narrowed the design choice. dripped from holes

50 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 refer to DIY 1997-#4 issue.] A custom cradle made of wood on wheels supports the hull and makes it very the stringers. Expansion of the foam portable. is difficult to control. Too much foam 6 Mold takes the shape of a more can push the hull sides out. Foam that modern circular splashwell interior to expanded above the stringers was replace the square one. Once lami- cut off and the excess tossed into the nated and gelcoated, it’s glued to the next section before pouring more soggy 25mm (1") plywood core are foam. As the boat had no limber removed, leaving the outer skin holes to allow water to flow freely intact. Salvaging enough of the bad through the bilge to the bilge pump, ply to use as a pattern, the shape is Yeates constructed a tunnel running transferred onto 19mm (3/4") marine from bow to stern made of fiberglass ply, then two pieces are cut. Ply lay- sheet bonded to the hull with thick- ers are bonded together with ened epoxy resin and foamed over to vinylester resin sprayed on with a give complete floor support. An open- chopper gun. Once cured, the new splashwell. Next is the installation of ing at the stern provides pump transom core is glued to the outer a fiberglass grate that allows bilge access. skin with thickened epoxy resin. A access, a battery box, built-in gas new inner skin is built up of vinylester tank and portable reserve fuel tank, 4 A new floor is cut of marine ply- resin with three layers of 1.5 oz. mat, “Just in case I run out of fuel,” says wood, encapsulated in 1.5 oz. mat- one layer of 24 oz. woven roving, Yeates. A switch mounted in the ting and vinylester resin and attached two layers of 1.5 oz. mat followed splashwell allows interchanging fuel to stringers with sealant and fasten- by 3oz. fine cloth for a smooth finish tanks without swapping fuel lines. on the inside. Aluminum angle bed- ded in silver-colored silicone seals the From main top edge and provides support for fuel tank From the outboard engine. reserve Valve has three positions main, reserve and off Fill 3 GUY DRINKWALTER Suspecting a waterlogged bilge, To switch valve To engine the edges of the plywood-over-fiber- To switch valve 8L (3 gallon) glass floor are cut cleanly with the reserve To engine 49L (19 gallon) main portable side grinder. Lifting the floor revealed ers. Following his wiring built-in tank water-saturated foam that Yeates diagram, Yeates installs freed with a shovel. Two-part ure- navigation lights, docking lights, thane foam was then mixed in a pail switches, wiring for engine gauges, 7 Mold construction for interior liner and poured into the bilge between stereo, horn and other accessories. comprised of three sections. Port and Conduit protects wires from chafe. starboard are on the right in the Once completed, a new floor is cut of photo, transom is on the left. Molds marine plywood, encapsulated in are made of 19mm (3/4") plywood, 1.5oz matting and vinylester resin finished on one side. A larger-than- and attached to stringers with sealant required size of plywood forms the and fasteners. base. Mold dimensions are penciled 5 Deck goes back on and is riveted directly onto the ply. Components are to the hull. Original metal rubrail is then constructed from these dimen- reinstalled along with a new rubber sions and assembled using screws to insert. [For tips on installing rubrails, facilitate removing the mold. “This is

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 51 Project Boat ing and sanding again. Mold areas the laminates of vinylester resin and that are visible receive a coating of mat using a chopper gun applied to black Furan, buffed to a brilliant a thickness equal to six layers of 1- shine using a 1/2 oz. mat. Yeates consulted with a medium coarse structural engineer for the laminate buffing com- schedule. For tips on doing this task, pound. Next step see “Molding Parts” on page 55. is to apply five Molds are left to cure overnight and coats of Mirror finished by trimming off excess, grind- Glaze molding edges and sanding off any loose release wax, fibers. Molds are now dismantled allowing the wax and separated from laminated sec- a must if you have any area that is to dry then buffed off between each tions. an under cut,” explains Yeates. Next coat. 10 Interior liner fits perfectly! Locker step is to apply lightweight, sandable 9 White gelcoat is now sprayed on, filler to form nicely round edges and tops are cutout. Mylar is placed about 18mils thick. Once the gelcoat between the liner sections and the hide the wood grain. Flexible plastic is just slightly tacky it’s time to apply cut into different radius com- floor, then a fiberglass flange is lami- presses the filler into the cor- nated to the bottom edges of each ners. section. Mylar prevents contact with the deck and allows easy release of 8 Completed port mold is the laminated parts. Flange allows first sprayed with a 40mils bolting of the sections to the floor thick coating of Duratec with stainless steel screws. Interior is Polyester Surfacing Primer, entirely modular to allow access to sanded with 80 grit and finished with 400 grit paper. Some areas required reprim- DIY ONLINE FREE Email Newsletters

Receive valuable tips and fuel tanks, battery, troubleshooting information wiring, etc. with DIY boat owner's It takes less than 30 min- bimonthly email newsletter. utes to remove the interior. It's FREE! 11 The original floor at the bow had a noticeable bow. It was necessary to cut the To sign up, just log onto floor, push it down www.diy-boat.com until level and fasten and click on with "FREE NEWSLET TER" screws, then install a new laminated floor constructed

52 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 of mat laid over wood and sprayed vinylester resin. After installation, the floor receives a coat of waxed resin, containing 5% parrafin wax dissolved in styrene then mixed in with vinylester resin, and white pigment added. Commonly used by boatbuilders and industrial manufacturers it gives a resin rich, non-tacky surface when added to the final outside layer of mat.

12 Helm seat support roughed in with 3mm (1/8") thick, 15cm (6") wide fiberglass channel (used for industrial walkways). Numerous molded plastic access ports for storage access mounted in the bow and stern. Support will be painted with white polyurethane paint.

13 Proboard, a bendable plastic, is cut then heated with a torch and bent to the needed shape. These form the backrests for the seats and will be covered with cushions. Rot-free, it’s a better choice than plywood.

14 Finished curved molded piece is bonded to the splashwell interior.

15 The hull is wet sanded with 600 grit, then 800,

BUILDERS COMMENTS I estimate the total monies spent on all materials and parts, including the trailer and 150hp engine, at $22,049. This doesn’t include a value for my labor as I stopped counting the hours after completing the interior liner molds. I could have bought a new production boat for the same amount or less. But building allowed me to customize the interior, install my own safety standards, gain a hands-on understanding of the workings of all components, and it became a family project that involved my wife Ruth and son Patrick as well. All construction and installations comply with the Canadian Construction Standards for Small Vessels (compa- rable to ABYC Standards and Recommended Practices for Small Craft in the U.S.) available from the Canadian Coast Guard. Upon completion, I submitted a Single Vessel Data Sheet, survey and other forms necessary to apply for a boat capacity plate, just as a production boatbuilder must do. A label affixed to my boat provides a hull identification number, and notes the maximum weight and load capacity, and horsepower rating. — Mark Yeates

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 53 Project Boat then 1,500 to remove gelcoat oxidation. Green polyurethane paint is applied over the red sheer stripe.

16 Beginning of helm reconstruction, a hole is cut for the Teleflex NFB helm pump. Conduit of schedule 40 pipe runs MATERIALS BILL underneath gunwale on starboard side to house steering Boat, hull and deck $600 Rubrail insert $40 cables, engine harness and a messenger line to later route Hull cradle $27 Fenders, 4 $40 electrical cables as needed. Fiberglass angle on dash top Compass $55 and sides allows fastening of padded upholstery. Plywood Raw Materials Horn $22 pattern of dash is fitted. Dash panel will be constructed of Vinylester resin, 39L (10 gal) $360 Radio splash cover $26 19mm (3/4") oak. 1-1/2 oz. mat, 4.5kg (10lb) $31 Speakers $220 Urethane foam, 26.5L (7 gal) $90 Repair of CD player $46 Acetone, 19L (5 gallons) $48 Dual cable steering $500 Duratec 3.8L (1 gallon) $35 Ski bar $175 Furan 3.8L (1 gallon) $35 Black vents $77 Gelcoat, white 3.8L (1 gallon) $47 Drink holders $84 Mold polish $30 Windshield $935 Proboard, black $68 Graphics and pin striping $452 Waxed resin, 3.8L (1 gallon) $47 Safety equipment: fire extinguisher, 17 Foam doubles as patterns for the cushions, which are 19mm (3/4") Plywood, 1 sheet $25 flares, lifejackets, wet suits $335 backed with plywood preserved in Thompsons Water Seal. Stainless steel nuts and bolts $14 Miscellaneous fasteners and Holes cut in plywood back allow for water drainage and Lumber for framing $94 hardware $596 fiberglass bug screen stapled to the back provides good Miscellaneous mixing tubs, paint ventilation. Yeates cut all the materials and his wife sewed brushes and rollers, paint and primer, Seats and Upholstery and assembled the cushions. sandpaper, grinding discs, fillers, Foam, 28kg (61lb) $153 sealant, masking tape, tack rags $167 Vinyl 30m (32.5 yards) $195 Stainless steel staples, 6 packs $66 Wiring Quilt batting $61 Wire stripper, heat-shrink torch $43 Fasteners $10 Fuse and switch panels $40 Adhesive $25 Miscellaneous heat-shrink tube, Plywood, 12mm (1/2") $15 connectors, conduit, wiring, Carpet $70 18 negative busbar, fuses $177 Removable ski bar Trailer installs between drink Tools Trailer with load guides and holders trimmed in 3mm (1/8") oak. When not Electric drill, hole saws, drill bits $68 spare tire $1,800 skiing, a cushion covers Staple gun $49 Trailer hitch $240 the cavity. Miscellaneous $73 Engine 19 Interior liner 150hp $11,000 Equipment and Hardware removed and outdoor Battery box $12 Rigging and cables $300 carpet installed and 540 Battery $65 Prop $200 glued down with contact Bilge pump $25 (Engine installation by a qualified cement. marine technician) Blower $25 20 Stainless steel deck steps $24 Drink holders Documentation Powerlight $40 trimmed in oak, Survey $100 handrails, plastic water- Pop-up cleats, 10 $265 Trailer license $35 proof speakers and padded walkthrough complete the bow Gas tank, 47L (18 gallon) $150 seating area. Same oak trim around drink holders. A filler Gas tank, 6.5L (2.5 gallons) $35 Other Miscellaneous $1,025 piece made of oak plywood, stained green and finished Tank hold-down kit, tank and with five coats of clear polyurethane is later added. It fits deck fittings $182 TOTAL $22,049 snugly against the upholstered sides and top rests under- Locker doors, 3 $160 Note: Prices in Canadian funds neath the windshield. Gold vinyl trim available from a lum-

54 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628 MOLDING PARTS Set up a worktable with all your materials. Since resin seems to track every where, wear old clothes or a Tyvek suit and use masking tape to cover your shoes or slip into plastic bags taped at the cuff. Keep acetone close to clean brushes and rollers; if resin kicks off these become garbage. Cover the table in plastic sheeting, waxed paper or foil. Precut the mat and/or cloth. Don’t make the pieces too big, this is especially true for cor- ners as small pieces allow rolling out the air much easier. I made one of the liner parts with sections that were too big, resulting in air pockets on the gelcoat surface that had to be filled and regelcoated later. beryard I usually work with three layers of 1-1/2 oz. mat at one time. Apply mounted along resin, about the size as the piece of mat you are using, onto waxed paper. edge so it does- Place the mat onto this and apply more resin. Follow this procedure for all n’t mar the three layers. Now, roll out the mat so it’s saturated with resin and all air is upholstery. removed. Once this is done, pick up all three layers at one time and place Latches release it in the mold and roll out any air. Because vinylester resin is very temper- so it folds in ature sensitive, it’s best to mix small batches. You might consider making half. a batch for a gel test and take note of the working time. Repeat this procedure, overlapping the edges of each section, until laminating is completed. In some cases more that three layers can be applied at one time but the heat these 21 A SeaRay shaped windshield is a perfect fit. Finished layers may generate can distort your part. dash includes a compass, 12-volt receptacle for the solar Now, let the laminate cure. While the panel (to charge the battery) and other accessories, multi- laminate is still “green,” (mat is function engine gauges, and Chaparral rocker switches flexible but doesn’t shift) trim the costing $5 each. excess material with a sharp utility knife. If parts require more material to obtain the desired thick- " 7" 16 /

ness, rough up the mating sur- 3 23" 12" face with 60-grit paper. If lay 31 up is done within a few hours " " 8 / 4 / 3

after the first lay up cures, sand 3 very lightly. Sand more aggres- 16 " 16 " / 4 3 sively if a few days have / 3 5" 64 passed. Fiberglass dust can be 47 very itchy to the skin and 27" 20 22 Launch day! A mid-80s hull design with all of today’s should never be inhaled. Wear modern conveniences: lounge, bench and helm seating long sleeves, gloves and use ?" (instead of the typical back-to-back sleeper seats), tele- masking tape to join them. scopic Powerlight stern light, pop-up cleats, stereo with CD Wear a dust mask and eye pro- 6" player, docking lights, custom two-piece swing-down ladder tection. When washing, use and much more. lukewarm water. Hot water will GUY DRINKWALTER cause dust particles to sink deeper into skin pores. Always work in a very well ventilated area when using resins. Reinforce large parts that require extra strength with plywood, balsa or one of the special lightweight foams or cores. When using these materials, first rough up the surface with 60-grit paper. Then mix resin and thicken into a paste with filler, such as microballoons or cabosil. Apply this to the cured laminate and press the core material into it. Add some weight until the paste cures. Then lay up a few layers of mat to secure it in place. — Mark Yeates

1-888-658-2628 (www.diy-boat.com) DIY boat owner 2002- #2 55 wood brackets, almost flat on the bottom edge to rest atop the roof, and curved on the top edge to match the barrel’s shape. Pick a spot over the shower stall or head area [ By David and Zora Aiken ] tying spare fuel cans and water and mount the brackets to the roof. jugs, or clipping a dinghy MORE DUCK FOIL painter at the usual boarding Top Fill Metal Straps Necessity has sparked a number of location. solutions, if not actual inventions, to To make, slide foam marina ducks taking up residence insulation tube, already on swim platforms, many of which slit down its length, have appeared in the “Currents” col- over the rail. Hold the umn in past DIY issues. Here are a tube in place with few more ideas. A super-simple solu- small tion is to cover the platform with a cable 90° PVC Elbow sheet of heavy gauge plastic and ties. If

seal it securely with duct (not duck) you plan 1/2" tape. If you wrap the edges like a to be PVC Pipe Teak or Mahogany Brackets gift package, most of the tape will away 1/2" stick to the plastic, and you won’t from the PVC Pipe have the nasty problem of removing boat for Stainless Steel Hook tape adhesive. some Another option is to take some time and Shower Head 1/2" 4L (1 gallon) plastic jugs emptied of want to Water Hose their original contents and refilled add some Place the barrel on the with water. Line up the bottles near UV protection, use the insula- brackets, and attach some the outer edge of the platform so tion to hide the varnish. Though strapping to secure it to the brack- they are slightly less than a duck not as nautical as a proper custom- ets. Install a fill fitting on the top. width apart. Lastly, build a pup tent fitted canvas cover, foam tubes pro- Near the bottom of one end, insert vide a simple and effective a 90° PVC elbow, pointing down- option. ward, and attach a short piece of PVC pipe to the elbow. Cut a hole BARREL SHOWER through the roof and feed the pipe Ideal on the roof of a into the head area. Seal well with houseboat, 3M 4200 or equivalent. this unfashion- From inside the boat, attach a able cabin valve fitting to the PVC pipe. Locate shower design of light- this water-control switch convenient is easily adapted weight plywood and for use on other boat to the shower area. Now attach a sit it on the platform. (See photo styles, requiring only some simple length of hose with a spray fitting or in DIY 2001-#4 issue, page 3.) The modifications to the mounting brack- shower head on the end. Make up sides are too steeply angled for the ets, or installed as a cockpit shower. this assembly with individual parts, comfort of a sitting duck. Start with a wood, plastic, even or buy a telephone-style shower metal barrel. A 5L (6 gallon) attachment. Mount a U-shaped stain- RAIL CUSHION capacity is man- less steel bracket on a bulkhead to On a boat, foam-rubber pipe insula- age- hold the shower hose when it’s not tion has proved useful for in use. handrail protection. Rails are the able About the authors: David and Zora Aiken are obvious and it holds the authors and illustrators of numerous boat- enough water to be practi- ing, camping and children’s books, including place for a “Good Boatkeeping” and “Good Cruising” tarp tie- cal. Paint the barrel black to acceler- published by International Marine. They live down, ate the solar heating. Make two aboard “Atelier,” in Grasonville, Maryland.

56 DIY boat owner 2002- #2 (www.diy-boat.com) 1-888-658-2628