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Introduction Notes Introduction 1 Hannah More, 'Sensibility: A Poetic Epistle to the Honorable Mrs Boscawen', in Sacred Dramas: Chiefly Intended for Young Persons: The Subjects Taken from the Bible. To Which is Added Sensibility, A Poem (London: T. Cadell, 1782), p. 282. Subsequent references will be given parenthetically in the text. 2 See Raymond Williams, Keywords: A Vocabulary of Culture and Society (London: Fontana, 1976), pp. 235-8; John Mullan, Sentiment and Sociability: The Language ofFeeling in the Eighteenth Century (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1988); G.]. Barker-Benfield, The Culture of Sensibility: Sex and Society in Eighteenth­ Century Britain (Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 1992); and Ann Jessie VanSant, Eighteenth-Century Sensibility and the Novel: The Senses in Social Context (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1993). 3 The privileging of sight in sentimental discourse has been amply demon­ strated by recent critics. Robert Markley has argued that sentimentality amounts to 'an aesthetics of moral sensitivity', while Janet Todd has referred to sentimentalism as 'a kind of pedagogy of seeing'. Robert Markley, 'Sentimentality as Performance: Shaftesbury, Sterne, and the Theatrics of Virtue', in The New Eighteenth Century: Theory, Politics, English Literature, ed. Felicity Nussbaum and Laura Brown (London and New York: Methuen, 1987), p. 211. See also Janet Todd, Sensibility, An Introduction (London and New York: Methuen, 1986), p. 4. 4 This strain is, in turn, the legacy of debates on the relationship between language and ideas raised in Book III of John Locke's Essay Concerning Human Understanding (1689). 5 Alexander Pope, 'An Essay on Criticism', reprinted in The Poems ofAlexander Pope, ed. John Butt (London and New York: Routledge, 1992), pp. 143-68. 6 Laura Brown, Ends of Empire: Women and Ideology in Early Eighteenth-Century Literature (London: Cornell University Press, 1993), p. 106. 7 For a discussion of the normalising effect of Pope's rhyming couplet, see Hugh Kenner, 'Pope's Reasonable Rhymes', ELH, 41 (1974), pp. 74-88. 8 Brown, Ends of Empire, p. 106. 9 Ibid., pp. 109-33. 10 The importance of this figure and its reworking in the sentimental novel is considered in more depth in the final chapter on Maria Edgeworth's Belinda (1801). See also Felicity A. Nussbaum, 'The Brink of all we Hate': English Satires on Women, 1660-1750 (Lexington, KY: The University Press of Kentucky, 1984); and Ellen Pollak, The Poetics of Sexual Myth: Gender and Ideology in the Verse of Swift and Pope (Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 1 985). 11 Letter to Alexander Pope, 11 May 1738. Aaron Hill, The Works of the Late Aaron Hill, Esq, 4 vols (London: Printed for the Benefit of the Family, 1753), I, pp. 251-2. 178 Notes 179 12 Prefixed to the second edition of the novel, reprinted in The Pamela Controversy: Criticisms and Adaptations of Samuel Richardson's Pamela, 1740-1750, ed. Thomas Keymer and Peter Sabor, 6 vols (London: Pickering and Chatto, 2001), I, pp. 22-3. 13 The important and much contested scene in which Pamela appears in her homespun gown and petticoat is central to this book, and is examined in greater depth in Chapter 1. 14 See, for example, Neil McKendrick, John Brewer and]. H. Plumb, eds, The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commericialisation of Eighteenth-Century England (London, Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland and Johnannesburg: Hutchinson: Europa, 1982). 15 Bernard Mandeville, The Fable of the Bees and Other Writings, ed. E.]. Hundert (Indianapolis and Cambridge: Hackett, 1997). 16 See, for example, David Hume's 'Of Commerce' and 'Of Luxury' (later titled 'Of Refinement in the Arts'), both in Political Discourses (1752). 17 For a useful survey of eighteenth-century debates on luxury, commerce and gender, see Maxine Berg and Elizabeth Eger, eds, Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan 2003), pp. 7-27. 18 Mandeville, Fable of the Bees, pp. 76-7. 19 Adam Smith, The Wealth of Nations (1776), Book III, Chapter 4. 20 Daniel Defoe, Every-Body's Business, is No-body's Business (London: T. Warner, 1725), p. 4. 21 The Lady's Magazine: or, Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex, 16 (February 1785), p. 96. 22 Neil McKendrick, 'The Commercialisation of Fashion', in The Birth of a Consumer Society, pp. 34-99. 23 For an account of the growth and role of the secondhand clothing trade in pre-industrial England, see Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade Before the Factory, 1660-1800 (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1997). 24 Beverly Lemire, Fashion's Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660-1800 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1991), p. 161. 25 Terry Castle, Masquerade and Civilisation: The Carnivalesque in Eighteenth­ Century English Culture and Fiction (London: Methuen, 1986), pp. 55-7. 26 Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, trans. Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (London: Bedford Square, 1985). 27 London Magazine, 6 (March 1737), p. 129. 28 The eighteenth-century masquerade has attracted the interest of several critics and fashion historians. Among the best of these studies, see Castle, Masquerade and Civilisation; and Aileen Ribeiro, The Dress Worn at Masquerades in England, 1730-1790 and its Relation to Fancy Dress in Portraiture (London: Batsford, 1984). 29 Fred Davis, Fashion, Culture, and Identity (Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 1992); and] ohn Harvey, Men in Black (London: Reaktion, 1995). 30 Castle, Masquerade and Civilisation, pp. 55-7. 31 The Lady's Magazine, 16 Guly 1775), p. 350. 32 This theme is the subject of Chapter 1. 180 Notes 33 jean-Jacques Rousseau, Emile or Education (1762), trans. Barbara Foxley (London:]. M. Dent, 1911), p. 357. 34 Universal Magazine of Knowledge and Pleasure, 51 (October 1772), p. 210. 35 For a discussion of the attempts to regulate the dress of prostitutes, see Alan Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996), pp. 242-51. 36 Nancy Armstrong, 'The Rise of the Domestic Woman', The Ideology of Conduct: Essays on Literature and the History of Sexuality, ed. Nancy Armstrong and Leonard Tennenhouse (London: Routledge, 1987), p. 108. 37 The question of the extent to which sumptuary law was unfairly biased towards the restriction of women as opposed to men is a contentious issue among historians. Some feminist historians, such as Diane Hughes and Harianne Mills, have argued that sumptuary laws were implicitly gendered: for men, sumptuary regulation was an issue of class or pecuniary status, for women, a question of moral regulation. See Hughes, 'Invisible Madonnas? The Italian Historiographical Tradition and the Women of Medieval Italy', in Women in Medieval Society, ed. Susan M. Stuard (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1976); and Mills, 'Greek Clothing Regulations: Sacred or Profane?', Zeitschrift fur Papyrologie und Epigraphik, 55 (1984), 255-65. More recently, Alan Hunt has questioned these arguments by suggesting that both men and women were variously targeted by sumptuary law, as governing bodies responded to changes in fashionable dress, although he concedes that sumptuary laws 'were a component of wider processes in which women were the targets of regulation and control', pp. 214-54. 38 Armstrong, 'The Rise of the Domestic Woman', pp. 110-11. 39 Harriet Guest, Small Change: Women, Learning and Patriotism, 1750-1810 (Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press, 2000), pp. 76-86. 40 The extent and limitations of the revolutionary implications of a senti­ mental meritocracy and the self-regulatory efforts of writers to guard against its more transgressive implications are explored by Markley in 'Sentimentality as Performance', pp. 210-30. 41 Laurence Sterne, The Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy, Gentleman (1759-1767), ed. Ian Campbell Ross (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1983), p. 59. 42 Thomas Marriott, Being an Essay on the Art of Pleasing, 3rd edn (London: W. Owen, 1775), p. 202. 43 Mullan, Sentiment and Sociability, p. 74. 44 On cosmetics as sign, see Tassie Gwilliam, 'Cosmetic Poetics: Coloring Faces in the Eighteenth Century', in Body and Text in the Eighteenth Century, ed. Dorothea von Mucke and Veronica Kelly (Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 1994), 144-59. The extent to which race and skin colour were seen as contingent or indelible signifiers of character see, among others, Felicity A. Nussbaum, The Limits of the Human: Fictions of Anomaly, Race, and Gender in the Long Eighteenth Century (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003). On defect, see Helen Deutsch and Felicity A. Nussbaum, eds, 'Defects': Engendering the Modern Body (Ann Arbor, MI: The University of Michigan Press, 2000); and on the relationship between defect, beauty and physiognomy, see Robert W. Jones, Gender and the Formation of Taste in Eighteenth-Century Britain: The Analysis of Beauty (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998). Notes 181 45 Mullan, Sentiment and Sociability, p. 113. 46 Lady Bradshaigh, Letter to Richardson (n.d.), The Correspondence of Samuel Richardson, ed. Anna Laetitia Barbauld, 6 vols (London: Richard Phillips, 1804), IV, pp. 282-3. 4 7 Hannah More, Strictures on the Modern System of Female Education, 2nd edn, 2 vols (London: T. Cadell and W. Davies, 1799), I, p. 74. 48 Jean H. Hagstrum, Sex and Sensibility: Ideal and Erotic Love from Milton to Mozart (Chicago and London: The University of Chicago Press, 1980). 49 Markman Ellis, The Politics of Sensibility: Race, Gender and Commerce in the Sentimental Novel (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996). SO Gillian Skinner, Sensibility and Economics in the Novel, 1740-1800 (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1999); and Guest, Small Change, pp. 155-75. S 1 For a sustained account of sensibility's relationship to consumer culture, see Barker-Benfield, The Culture of Sensibility. 52 Ibid. Terry Eagleton, The Rape of Clarissa: Writing, Sexuality and Class Struggle in Samuel Richardson (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1982).
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