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Back Roads Ireland

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Back Roads Ireland EYEWITNESS TRAVEL BACK ROADS IRELAND SCENIC ROUTES • CHARMING HOTELS AUTHENTIC REGIONAL CUISINE N 5ZIPMMBOE .JEEMFUPXO .BSLFUIJMM " 3BUIGSJUUIGIIGGSJS .POBHIBO " ,FBEZ " / $MPOUJCSFU (BSOBHI #FTTCSPPLL /FXSZ/FXS/FX/FFX Z -/.!'(!. /FXUPXOIBNJMUPO " " #BMMZCBZ " $BTUMFCMBZOFZ DLDPSSZ 8BSSFBSSFSSFF ,OUGH ,JMMFFO,JMM,,J,JMMFMMFFFOO $SPTTNBHMFO$SPTTSPTTSPSPTTPTTNBHMFNNBBHM O # $PPUFIJMM -UCKNO A RL 0NFBUI00NNNFFBUFBF I IN %SVNCJMMB%SVNCV JMJMMB / INCLUDES // $BSMJOHGPSE$BS$BSMJSMJMJOHGPSHGPGP E 4IFSDPDL POF $BSSJDLNBDSPTTPTTTT %VOEBML%V%VO%VVOVOEOEBMLMLL . -PVUI $UNDALK$UNDALK PULL-OUT MAP "AY #BJMJFCPSPVHI ,JOHTDPVSU,,JOHT,JOH,JOHHTDPVSUDP ,/54(,/54,// 544(4 ( / $BTUMFCFMMJOHIBN$B$BT$BTUM$B FCFMMJOHIBN KBNFTEVõ "SEFFSEF $U 7JSHJOJB /PCCFS/PCCFS / %VOMFFS%VOMF% FSS ,OUGHOUOUGOUGHUUGHH LEISURELY DRIVES 2AMOR22A2AMOAMORORO # 25 $BTUM$BTUMFUPXOFUPXOPXOO . $PMMPO$$PMMP$PM O / $MP$$M 8JMLJOTUPX8JMLJOTUPXOOT O .FMMJGPOU.FMMJ.FM GPOGP U //FX/FXUP/FXUPXO.POBTUUPXO.PXOO..P.POOBTU MMJ M IM I ,FMMTMMT DRIVE 3 ./24(%2. )2%,!.$ #FMGBTU 4MJHP %VOEBML 2%05",)# (BMXBZ /&)2%,!.$ %VCMJO -JNFSJDL 8FYGPSE ,JMMBSOFZ $PSL The Majestic Ring of Kerry Kenmare to Killarney Highlights • Charming Kenmare Soak up the atmosphere of this heritage town, gateway to the Ring of Kerry, and shop for fine local crafts • Remote monastic settlements Go on a boat trip out to the island of Skellig Michael to view the early Christian monastery there, a UNESCO World Heritage Site • Island adventures Admire awesome vistas from the Fogher Cliffs and the Martello tower at Bray Head on Valentia Island • Dramatic mountain drives Take the high road through gaps in the Macgillycuddy Reeks range Panoramic views from the dramatic Fogher Cliffs on Valentia Island 52 BACK ROADS IRELAND The Majestic Ring of Kerry The Ring of Kerry is on the Iveragh Peninsula, the largest of five peninsulas jutting out into the Atlantic from the southwest of Ireland. The scenic promonory is famed for its vistas of sea and mountains – visitors have been coming here for centuries, drawn by the sheer abundance of natural beauty. It is a popular tourist route, so don’t expect splendid isolation, but this drive offers plenty of opportunities to veer off the beaten track into a dramatic landscape of coves, cliffs, broad bays, and rugged countryside, all set against the Macgillycuddy Reeks, Ireland’s highest mountain range. This ancient landscape is richly endowed with remnants of early Christian settlements and megalithic sites. ACTIVITIES *ODI ,JMNVSSZ Visit Iron Age Staigue Fort, the .JOBSE best-preserved in Ireland, set in a -INARD beautiful valley "ULLS 0OINT Y ,OPDLBVOBHMBTIZ (EAD " A E Take a boat trip out to the G L 2OSSBEHY N #REEK island of Skellig Michael to see I $BSBHI the superb monastic ruins $ 2OSS"EHY (MFOCFJHI Walk around Muckross "EACH Lake, through ancient forests, and have tea in an 18th-century hunting lodge / #MBDLTUPOF#SJEHF j H G #ANGLASS A Go for an invigorating #OOMASAHARN R 0OINT A ,OUGH # swim in the blue waters %PPOFFO of Castlecove Bays #OOMACARREA M ,JNFHP $OULUS(EAD .POFZEVò (BSSBOF +%229 2ENARD $")&34*7&&/ (FPLBVO 0OINT #LOON .PVOUBJO ,OUGH ,OJHIUTUPXO 5PPSFFONPSF -JTTBUJOOJH 7"-&/5*"*4-"/% -JPTBOU4POOBJH 3 0HIFSNPOH ,JMNBDLFSSJO $PBSIBCFH %POOZCSPPL $ERRIANA 3 ,JMQFBSBO $JMM.IJD*BSBJOO 4LFMMJH&YQFSJFODF$FOUSF ,OUGH NY "RAY(EAD 1PSUNBHFF )N / .BTUFSHFFIZ .ÈJTUJS(BPJUIF #LOONAGHLIN 5FFSBOFBSBHI ,OUGH #OONANASPIG 5SJBO*BSUIBDI 4BMMBIJH 0ASS 3 3 3 ,FFM /FX$IBQFM$SPTT 0UFFIN)SLAND 4/&&. #"--*/4,&--*(4 "ALLINSKELLIGS /ILEÈNNAG#ÈNØG 4$&/*$%3*7& "EACH 8"5&37*--& ,OUGH j 3T&INANS #BMMJOTLFMMJHT #URRANE "AY #BJMFBO4DFJMH 1BSLOBTJMMB "ALLINSKELLIGS 45"*(6&'035 j $UCALLA(EAD "OLUS-OUNTAIN "SELFBSBHI / M "AY 2OSSDOHAN #OOMAKESTA )SLAND 0ASS 3HERKY ,ITTLE3KELLIG "OLUS(EAD #SJEHF7JMMF E 3CEILG"HEAG (OGS(EAD 8FTU$PWF )SLAND R A 3KELLIG3T-ICHAEL %FSSZOBOF M 3CEILG-HICHÓL $BIFSEBOJFM $"45-&$07& N + E %&33:/"/& #": 3CARIFF $EENISH ,AMBS (EAD KEY 0 kilometers 5 Drive route 0 miles 5 DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 53 PLAN YOUR DRIVE Start/finish: Kenmare to Killarney. Number of days: 3, allowing half a day for Valentia Island and a trip to Skellig Michael island, and half a day for Killarney National Park. Distance: 130 miles (210 km). Road conditions: Roads are paved and well-marked, but there are some steep inclines on the passes. Turns off Above Meeting of the Waters, where the Upper Lake flows the main Ring of Kerry are not always into Muckross Lake, in Killarney National Park, see p59 as well marked. 5VMMJH #BMMZWJSSBOF When to go: July and August can be ,JMMPSHMJO crowded, with tour buses dominating 'BIB / ,A the main routes. The best months in U N E 3 / which to visit are June and September. .FBOVT / In the winter, many places beyond $IVSDIUPXO ,OUGH #FBVGPSU Kenmare and Killarney will be closed. , #ARAGH ,JMHPCOFU O U ,*--"3/&: I / G Opening times: Shops are generally H j , EA open 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm, but most NE close on Sundays except corner shops. ,*--"3/&: .VDLSPTT Catholic churches stay open all day. 4IBOBDBTIFM /"5*0/"-1"3, < j L L Y C U D D Y S - A C G I -UCKROSS ,OUGH Main market days: Kenmare: Wed; E K S ,AKE 'UITANE #ARRANTUOHILL 2 E 0URPLE-T Milltown: Tue–Thu & Sat; Killarney: Fri. M M 3TOOMPA 5PPER / M Shopping: Kenmare is renowned for ,AKE -ANGERTON-T its wide range of individual shops and - M galleries selling top-quality local art N-"%*&47*&8 #"--"()#&"." and crafts. Look out in particular for ("1 +NOCKBRACK fine linen and lace. M -ULLAGHANATTIN "OUGHIL H.0--4("1 M M Major festivals: Killorglin (on Caragh $BQQBNPSF Lake): Puck Fair (coronation of goat 3 king), 10–12 Aug; Cahersiveen: Celtic (FBSIB / $MFBEZ Music Festival, Jun/Jul–Aug; Killarney: Summer Festival, Jul. ,&/."3& j 5FNQMFOPF 3 / R DAY TRIP OPTIONS E V I 2 For nature and history lovers, a day 5BIJMMB 2OSSMORE spent exploring Killarney and the )SLAND National Park, with beautiful lakes and "SEFB historic buildings, is a perfect choice. 3 Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy the #VOBX rugged cliffs of Valentia Island and then a boat trip to the ancient monastery of Skellig Michael. If time allows, finish with a walk up to the Geokaun Mountain or Fogher Cliffs. For full details, see p59. Left One of many attractive cafés in the village of Sneem, see p54 54 BACK ROADS IRELAND 1 Kenmare ª Take the main N71 from the Co Kerry Square and over the Cromwell Bridge, The picturesque heritage town of marked for Moll’s Gap and Killarney. Kenmare on the mouth of the River Very shortly after the bridge, turn left Sneem regularly tops many Irish onto the N70, toward Sneem. The people’s list when asked to nominate drive from Kenmare to Sneem along their favorite town. It isn’t completely the banks of the River Kenmare in thrall to tourism and goes about affords lovely views of the Caha and its business in a dignified and Slieve Miskish mountains on the discreet manner. Its Irish name, opposite shore. Neidin, translates as “little nest,” and is an apt description. It lies at the head 2 Sneem of the River Kenmare, flanked by the Co Kerry Ring of Beara (see p48) and the Ring This quaintly pretty village, located at of Kerry, making it an ideal base from the head of an estuary flowing into which to explore either peninsula. Kenmare river, is built around a The town center is compact, and picturesque green on which stands its X-shaped street pattern converges a statue to the local hero Steve Above Handsome Derrynane House, set in in a triangular square at the junction “Crusher” Casey, a world champion subtropical gardens where flax grows of Henry Street and Main Street. Its wrestler. This is a good place to stop narrow streets are lined with great for a quick bite or coffee. There are VISITING KENMARE shops and galleries, live music pubs, some nice shops, galleries, and cafés Parking and some excellent restaurants and off the main square. Park on either side of Main Street or in cafés. The library now houses the ª Continue west on the N70 in the the Square opposite the Tourist Office. Carnegie Arts Centre (www. direction of Castlecove. At a junction Tourist Information carnegieartskenmare.ie), whose state- just before the village, there is a tea The Square; 064 664 1233; open Apr–Oct: of-the-art new theater stages a wide room and visitor centre for Staigue daily; www.discoverireland.com/kerry range of top-quality drama and Fort. Turn right here, taking the concerts. It is worth dawdling a while narrow road as indicated, which leads WHERE TO STAY to make the most of this delightful to the fort itself, and park by the fort. town. An advantage to starting the KENMARE drive around the Ring from here is 3 Staigue Fort Lissyclearig Thatched Cottage that there is less chance of getting Castlecove, Co Kerry inexpensive stuck behind a convoy of tour buses, This is an impressive ring fort, Charming traditional house in a quiet as the majority of tours set off from thought to date from 300–400 AD, location with lovely countryside views. Killarney, following a counter- set in a beautiful, remote valley. One Moll’s Gap Road; 064 664 2563; www.lissyclearigthatchedcottage.com clockwise route around the peninsula. of the best preserved Iron Age forts Kenmare is also renowned for its in Ireland, Staigue Fort has 16-ft (5- Lansdowne Arms moderate traditional lace. During the famine m) high dry-stone walls surrounded A welcoming family-run hotel. Main Street; 064 664 1368 years, nuns from the local convent, by a bank and a ditch. Access the St Clare’s, introduced lace-making to two vaulted chambers within and The Park Hotel expensive This chateau-style hotel offers modern create work for the women and girls.
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