EYEWITNESS TRAVEL BACK ROADS

SCENIC ROUTES • CHARMING HOTELS AUTHENTIC REGIONAL CUISINE

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The Majestic Ring of Kerry to

Highlights • Charming Kenmare Soak up the atmosphere of this heritage town, gateway to the Ring of Kerry, and shop for fine local crafts

• Remote monastic settlements Go on a boat trip out to the island of Skellig Michael to view the early Christian monastery there, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

• Island adventures Admire awesome vistas from the Fogher Cliffs and the Martello tower at Bray Head on

• Dramatic mountain drives Take the high road through gaps in the Macgillycuddy Reeks range

Panoramic views from the dramatic Fogher Cliffs on Valentia Island 52 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Majestic Ring of Kerry The Ring of Kerry is on the Iveragh Peninsula, the largest of five peninsulas jutting out into the Atlantic from the southwest of Ireland. The scenic promonory is famed for its vistas of sea and mountains – visitors have been coming here for centuries, drawn by the sheer abundance of natural beauty. It is a popular tourist route, so don’t expect splendid isolation, but this drive offers plenty of opportunities to veer off the beaten track into a dramatic landscape of coves, cliffs, broad bays, and rugged countryside, all set against the Macgillycuddy Reeks, Ireland’s highest mountain range. This ancient landscape is richly endowed with remnants of early Christian settlements and megalithic sites.

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PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Kenmare to Killarney. Number of days: 3, allowing half a day for Valentia Island and a trip to Skellig Michael island, and half a day for Killarney National Park.

Distance: 130 miles (210 km). Road conditions: Roads are paved and well-marked, but there are some steep inclines on the passes. Turns off Above Meeting of the Waters, where the Upper Lake flows the main Ring of Kerry are not always into Muckross Lake, in Killarney National Park, see p59 as well marked.

5VMMJH #BMMZWJSSBOF When to go: July and August can be ,JMMPSHMJO crowded, with tour buses dominating 'BIB / ,A the main routes. The best months in U N E 3 / which to visit are June and September. .FBOVT / In the winter, many places beyond $IVSDIUPXO ,OUGH #FBVGPSU Kenmare and Killarney will be closed. , #ARAGH ,JMHPCOFU O U ,*--"3/&: I / G Opening times: Shops are generally H j , EA open 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm, but most NE close on Sundays except corner shops. ,*--"3/&: .VDLSPTT Catholic churches stay open all day. 4IBOBDBTIFM /"5*0/"-1"3, < j L L Y C U D D Y  S - A C G I -UCKROSS ,OUGH Main market days: Kenmare: Wed; E K S ,AKE 'UITANE #ARRANTUOHILL 2 E 0URPLE-T Milltown: Tue–Thu & Sat; Killarney: Fri. M M 3TOOMPA 5PPER / M Shopping: Kenmare is renowned for ,AKE -ANGERTON-T its wide range of individual shops and - M galleries selling top-quality local art N-"%*&47*&8 #"--"()#&"." and crafts. Look out in particular for  ("1 +NOCKBRACK fine linen and lace. M -ULLAGHANATTIN "OUGHIL H.0--4("1 M M Major festivals: (on Caragh $BQQBNPSF Lake): Puck Fair (coronation of goat 3 king), 10–12 Aug; : Celtic

(FBSIB / $MFBEZ Music Festival, Jun/Jul–Aug; Killarney: Summer Festival, Jul. ,&/."3& j 5FNQMFOPF 3 / R DAY TRIP OPTIONS E V I 2 For nature and history lovers, a day   5BIJMMB 2OSSMORE spent exploring Killarney and the   )SLAND National Park, with beautiful lakes and   "SEFB  historic buildings, is a perfect choice.  3   Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy the #VOBX rugged cliffs of Valentia Island and then a boat trip to the ancient monastery of Skellig Michael. If time allows, finish with a walk up to the Geokaun Mountain or Fogher Cliffs. For full details, see p59.

Left One of many attractive cafés in the village of , see p54 54 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Kenmare ª Take the main N71 from the Co Kerry Square and over the Cromwell Bridge, The picturesque heritage town of marked for Moll’s Gap and Killarney. Kenmare on the mouth of the River Very shortly after the bridge, turn left Sneem regularly tops many Irish onto the N70, toward Sneem. The people’s list when asked to nominate drive from Kenmare to Sneem along their favorite town. It isn’t completely the banks of the River Kenmare in thrall to tourism and goes about affords lovely views of the Caha and its business in a dignified and Slieve Miskish mountains on the discreet manner. Its Irish name, opposite shore. Neidin, translates as “little nest,” and is an apt description. It lies at the head 2 Sneem of the River Kenmare, flanked by the Co Kerry Ring of Beara (see p48) and the Ring This quaintly pretty village, located at of Kerry, making it an ideal base from the head of an estuary flowing into which to explore either peninsula. Kenmare river, is built around a The town center is compact, and picturesque green on which stands its X-shaped street pattern converges a statue to the local hero Steve Above Handsome House, set in in a triangular square at the junction “Crusher” Casey, a world champion subtropical gardens where flax grows of Henry Street and Main Street. Its wrestler. This is a good place to stop narrow streets are lined with great for a quick bite or coffee. There are VISITING KENMARE shops and galleries, live music pubs, some nice shops, galleries, and cafés Parking and some excellent restaurants and off the main square. Park on either side of Main Street or in cafés. The library now houses the ª Continue west on the N70 in the the Square opposite the Tourist Office. Carnegie Arts Centre (www. direction of Castlecove. At a junction Tourist Information carnegieartskenmare.ie), whose state- just before the village, there is a tea The Square; 064 664 1233; open Apr–Oct: of-the-art new theater stages a wide room and visitor centre for Staigue daily; www.discoverireland.com/kerry range of top-quality drama and Fort. Turn right here, taking the concerts. It is worth dawdling a while narrow road as indicated, which leads WHERE TO STAY to make the most of this delightful to the fort itself, and park by the fort. town. An advantage to starting the KENMARE drive around the Ring from here is 3 Staigue Fort Lissyclearig Thatched Cottage that there is less chance of getting Castlecove, Co Kerry inexpensive stuck behind a convoy of tour buses, This is an impressive ring fort, Charming traditional house in a quiet as the majority of tours set off from thought to date from 300–400 AD, location with lovely countryside views. Killarney, following a counter- set in a beautiful, remote valley. One Moll’s Gap Road; 064 664 2563; www.lissyclearigthatchedcottage.com clockwise route around the peninsula. of the best preserved Iron Age forts Kenmare is also renowned for its in Ireland, Staigue Fort has 16-ft (5- Lansdowne Arms moderate traditional lace. During the famine m) high dry-stone walls surrounded A welcoming family-run hotel. Main Street; 064 664 1368 years, nuns from the local convent, by a bank and a ditch. Access the St Clare’s, introduced lace-making to two vaulted chambers within and The Park Hotel expensive This chateau-style hotel offers modern create work for the women and girls. climb up the ramparts. It’s also well comforts in a traditional setting, and has exceptional estuary views. Below The River Sneem before it flows into the estuary at Kenmare High Street; 064 664 1200; www.parkkenmare.com SNEEM Parknasilla Hotel expensive Set in swathes of subtropical parkland overlooking Kenmare Bay, this hotel may have the best location in Ireland. Parknasilla Resort; 064 45122; www.parknasillahotel.ie; closed Jan–Mar WATERVILLE Butler Arms Hotel inexpensive-moderate One of Ireland’s best-known hotels – Charlie Chaplin was once a regular. The restaurant offers fish and lobster. Waterville; 066 947 4144; www.butlerarms.com

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200 DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 55

Above left White sands and rocky outcrops worth walking a little way up the Catholic emancipation in 1829. The of Castlecove Above Sturdy remains of the slopes of the valley to get a proper house contains much important impressive Iron Age Staigue Fort sense of the scale of the fort set memorabilia and there is a video against the surrounding landscape. presentation on his life and times. The ª Return to the N70 and turn right lush subtropical gardens run down to EAT AND DRINK for Castlecove, then left for the beach. the bay where there is a wide, sandy beach backed by dunes. KENMARE 4 Castlecove ª Return to the N70 and turn left. Packies inexpensive Co Kerry Beyond , the Ring of Kerry The mainstays here include Irish stew and fish chowder, and they are very The main attraction of this little climbs steeply to the Coomakista Pass, proud of their “real prawn cocktail.” resort is the beautiful white sandy with stunning views of Scariff Island and Henry St; 064 664 1508; closed Mon beach that looks out across the the mouth of the River Kenmare. Leath Phingin Eile expensive River Kenmare toward the Carry on to Waterville. Offering exceptional dishes, the menu Slieve Miskish Mountains. leans toward seafood, but chargrilled This sheltered cove is 6 Waterville fillet of beef is another great choice. ideal for safe swimming Co Kerry 35 Main Street; 064 664 1159; www.anleathphingineile.com and is understandably Near Waterville, on the popular with families. descent from the Lime Tree Restaurant expensive Children will also love to Coomakista Pass, the One of Kenmare’s best restaurants, with a loyal following. The food is classic explore the deep rock jagged silhouette of Irish with a contemporary approach. pools for seal life when Skellig Rock (see p56) can Shelbourne Street; 064 664 1225; the tide is out. be seen far out to sea. The www.limetreerestaurant.com ª Return to N70 and town itself is located on a Blind Piper pub sign, SNEEM continue to Caherdaniel. Caherdaniel long strip of land between Sacre Coeur Restaurant moderate Turn left here, at the sign for Lough Currane and Fresh fish features on the menu but Derrynane House. Bay. Many visitors are local lamb is also a speciality. attracted by its extensive beach, North Square; 064 664 5186; open 5 Derrynane Bay Waterville Strand; a championship dinner only; www.sacrecoeur.com Co Kerry golf course and superb angling are WATERVILLE The village of Caherdaniel sprawls other notable attractions. The beach Old Cable House inexpensive along Derrynane Bay’s eastern flank. is on the left of the town, backed by The Old Cable House is blessed with At the heart of the village are two a grassy promenade. Keep an eye clear views across the Atlantic, where excellent pubs, the Blind Piper and out for the bronze statue of Charlie the first transatlantic telegraph cable Freddie’s bar. Chaplin, who was a regular visitor, was laid from here to the USA in 1866. A little way beyond the village is staying at the Butler’s Arms with his A guesthouse, it also welcomes non- residents for unfussy seafood with an Derrynane House (open May–Sep: daily; trademark bowler hat and cane. emphasis on freshness and flavor. Apr & Oct–end Nov: Wed–Sun & Bank hols), Waterville boasts many good places Local lamb and beef also on the menu. set in a 300-acre (120-ha) wooded to eat and is an ideal stop off. Old Cable Station; 066 947 4233; National Park. The former home of ª Continue in the same direction on www.oldcablehouse.com Daniel O’Connell (see p58), it is now a the N70, toward Cahersiveen. After Smuggler’s Inn inexpensive museum dedicated to “The Liberator’” New Chapel Cross turn left onto the Adjacent to the golf course, this as he is sometimes called. R567, marked for Ballinskelligs. restaurant offers informal lunch at the bar or – on warm days – meals outside A hugely popular and non-violent Shortly after the road crosses the on the terrace. Seafood a speciality. campaigner, he championed the rights River Inny, there is a sign for the Cliff Road; 066 947 4330; of the poor and helped bring about Ballinskelligs Scenic Drive. www.the-smugglers-inn.com Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50 56 BACK ROADS IRELAND

7 Ballinskelligs Scenic Drive vast expanse of sea. The road Co Kerry continues around, skirting the edge As there are no bus tours allowed on of Saint Finan’s Bay before climbing this stretch of the road – known as again to Coonanaspig Pass. the Ballinskelligs Scenic Drive – it is There follows an exhilarating easy to enjoy the scenery in relative descent into the harbor village of isolation. Where the R567 joins the . At the foot of the hill, R566, turn left and follow the road as on the left, is a family-run café, the it curves around the bay, leading to Skellig Mist. From here, it is a Ballinskelligs village, where there is a 20-minute walk to the nearby cliffs magnificent stretch of sandy beach. which offer a spectacular view across After the village, the road inclines to Valentia Island. sharply toward Bolus Head, before ª From the café, turn left onto the turning northward, skirting Bolus minor road and follow it onto the Mountain. Soon the landscape opens R565 to the left to drive over the up into thrilling vistas of a patchwork bridge that crosses the channel to of fields sweeping down to the Valentia Island. Coming off the Above Puffin Island, seen from Coonanaspig headland and the jagged diamond bridge, the Skellig Experience Centre Pass on the Ballinskelligs Scenic Drive of the Skellig Rocks, rising up from a is on the left.

8 Valentia Island Co Kerry VISITING SKELLIG MICHAEL Valentia island has an enthralling mix of towering cliffs, rolling hills and wild seascapes. Valentia is also noted for the variety of The Skellig Experience Centre subtropical plants that have taken root here: in the summer, many of organizes a Sea Cruise to Skellig St the narrow lanes on the island are ablaze with the deep crimson of Michael (Great Skellig) and Small Skellig when the sea is not too rough. For fuchsia hedges. History was made here in 1866 when the first details visit the center or its website, transatlantic telegraph to the United States was laid here. www.skelligexperience.com. Several independent boat owners can take you to the Skelligs too. On Valentia Island, try 1 Skellig Experience Centre thrived on the island and on the way Owen Walsh Skellig Boat Trips, 066 Housed in a striking, prize-winning of life of its remarkably resilient 947 6327 or Ocean Quests, 066 947 stone building with a grass roof, the monks. There are also displays on the 6214 (Apr–Sep). Alternatively try Casey’s Skellig Boat Trips, Portmagee, 066 947 Skellig Experience Centre (open Jul & bird and underwater life of the island. 2437, or Waterville Boats, Waterville, Aug: daily; Mar, Apr & Oct–Nov: Mon–Fri) The Centre is able to arrange boat 066 947 4800 (May–Sep only). has displays on every facet of Skellig trips to Skellig Michael. Michael (Sceiig Mhichil), which is ª On leaving the parking lot, turn left WHERE TO STAY IN now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. up the hill. At the first junction turn BALLAGHBEAMA GAP This remote and rocky outcrop left again, following the signs for the contains one of the best-preserved Skellig Drive, and continue to a fork Blackstones House inexpensive early Christian monastic sites in the in the road. To access the path to Situated at the foot of Carruntuohill, Ireland’s highest mountain, and world. The audiovisual presentation Bray Tower, fork left and drive until overlooking the Caragh River, this is full of fascinating detail on the a lay-by at the end of the road is friendly family-run B&B enjoys a centuries in which the the monastery reached. Park here. splendid location. All rooms are ensuite with views of the river and the ,OUGH+AY soothing sound of its soft gurgling. 0 kilometers 3 2EENADROLAUN $BIFSTJWFFO Blackstone Bridge, Glencar; 066 976 0OINT 0164; www.glencar-blackstones.com 'EOKAUN 2ENARD 0 miles 3 -OUNTAIN 0OINT Carrig Country House and &OGHER #LIFFS  ,OJHIUTUPXO Restaurant moderate–expensive A former hunting lodge, owned by Lord Brockett, this manor house is the 6ALENTIA 3 0HIFSNPOH perfect hideaway – relaxed, and with )SLAND a charming atmosphere. There are %POOZCSPPL wonderful views over Caragh Lake, and $PBSIBCFH #SBZ5PXFS 4LFMMJH&YQFSJFODF a restaurant, which offers exceptional $FOUSF 3 cooking (non-residents are welcome). ,JMQFBSBO Killorglin, Caragh Lake; 066 976 9100; 1PSUNBHFF www.carrighouse.com; closed end 3 3 Nov–Mar

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200 DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 57

2 Bray Tower The views from the top are certainly Bray Tower is an 18th-century signal worth the short trek up. On Geokaun tower standing on the promontory Mountain there is a viewing platform of Bray Head. It is thought originally and 34 information plaques relating to have been a Martello lookout to the views of the Skelligs, the tower, many of which were built and Bray Tower, around Ireland in response to the among others. Before reaching the threat of an invasion by Napoleon. top, walk the short path on the left From the parking lot, head out on to the Fogher Cliffs and take in the foot along the track that leads out to panoramic landscape from the the headland and the tower. On a viewing deck there. clear day, the sweeping vistas of the ª Continue to Knightstown for surrounding headlands and islands the car ferry that runs continuously are truly magnificent. Allow an hour to Renard Point. From there it is a for the whole walk. straight run east to Cahersiveen. ª Return to the fork in the road and Above Rossbehy Beach at , on the this time take the other fork. Continue Monastic miracle road from Cahersiveen to Caragh Lake until you see a left sign for Geokaun In the 6th century, a group of Mountain and Fogher Cliffs. Drive to monks established a monastery on the top or park at the foot of the the island Skellig Michael – nothing mountain and walk (20 minutes). short of a miracle of devotion and ingenuity. Having withstood the forces of the Atlantic for nearly 1,500 3 Geokaun Mountain and the years, the chapel and beehive huts Fogher Cliffs are still remarkably preserved. These are the highest points on The hardy monastic community Valentia Island and among the most remained there for 600 years. EAT AND DRINK elevated on the whole Ring of Kerry. BALLINSKELLIGS SCENIC DRIVE The Moorings moderate Looking out over the harbor, this guesthouse, restaurant, and bar caters for all needs. The award-winning Bridge Bar is ideal for a light lunch before venturing onto Valentia Island. Both restaurant and bar take full advantage of the area’s abundant seafood. Harbour Front, Portmagee; 066 947 7108; www.moorings.ie; closed Mon VALENTIA ISLAND Lighthouse Café inexpensive Some have described the Lighthouse as pure magic. It’s a no-frills café with a chalkboard menu and mismatched crockery but they do the simple things Above View of Bray Head and its steep cliffs, Valentia Island superbly well. Sit back and drink in the views. It’s well marked from 9 Cahersiveen 0 Ballaghbeama Gap Knightstown, so don’t panic if it feels Co Kerry Co Kerry the road is petering out. Cahersiveen is the main service From Blackstone Bridge, a narrow road Dohilla; 066 947 6304; www.thelighthousecafe.ie; town for this part of the peninsula. winds its way up in the shadow of the closed Oct–end May Its chief claim to fame is that Daniel Magillicuddy Reeks to Ballaghbeama O’Connell, who agitated for Catholic Gap. On a clear day there are sweeping CAHERSIVEEN emancipation, was born here. The views across the lonely, windswept The Point Bar moderate Heritage Centre has displays landscape. Take a right fork half a mile Near to where the ferry disembarks from Valentia Island, this place is an covering the life of O’Connell and the (1 km) after the bridge to a T-junction institution and a great spot for a pint ill-fated Fenian uprising of 1867. (1 mile/2 km), then turn right for outdoors on a summer’s evening, ª Take the N70 north. It dips down to Cahersiveen, past the Climber’s Inn, watching harbor life. However, the real sea level at Glenbeigh. Beyond this, turn then sharp left for Ballaghbeama Gap draw here is the fresh seafood, which right for Glencar and Caragh Lake. Turn (at the sign). From the top, the road is very reasonably priced. Food is only served during the right over a bridge and drive round the descends to join the R568, skirting the summer months. lake to Blackstone Bridge over the River southern flanks of the Reeks. Renard Point, Cahersiveen; Caragh, a picturesque picnic spot. ª On the R568, turn left to Moll’s Gap. 087 259 5345 Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50 58 BACK ROADS IRELAND

VISITING KILLARNEY

Tourist Information Beech Road, Killarney; 064 31633; www.killarney.ie Killarney National Park Information Muckross House; 064 667 0144; www.killarneynationalpark.ie Parking There is a parking lot next to the Tourist Information centre, but this may be full in high season. An alternative is Glebe parking lot on College Road.

WHERE TO STAY Above Majestic Upper and Muckross lakes, and Lough Leane, seen from Ladies’ View KILLARNEY Killarney Lodge moderate q Moll’s Gap would be hard to disagree with her. Just a stroll from the town center yet Co Kerry From here it seems as if the whole of beautifully secluded in its own walled Moll’s Gap is where the R568 meets Kerry is laid out directly below. Upper garden, this family-run guest house offers excellent accommodation. the N71 which runs between Lake stretches away to link up with Countess Road; 064 663 6499; Killarney and Kenmare. There are the two lower lakes, Muckross and www.killarneylodge.net several spectacular vistas from here, Leane. On the far side is the dramatic KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK but sadly many of the best places for massif. viewing have been fenced off. ª Continue on the N71 to Killarney Coolclogher House moderate ª This early Victorian house on a working Continue on the N71 to Ladies’ National Park and Muckross. farm is a haven of tranquillity. Four View, pausing at the lay-by just before rooms have mountain and sea views. it for more splendid views. The Liberator Mill Road (third left off N71 from Daniel O’Connell (1775–1847), “The Killarney); 064 663 5996; w Ladies’ View Liberator”, campaigned for equal www.coolclogherhouse.com Killarney, Co Kerry rights and religious tolerance. His Cahernane House Hotel moderate Ladies’ View takes its name from one goal was partially achieved in 1829, Set in its own parklands on the edge of when Catholics were at last admitted of Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting the national park, this has a charming to Parliament in Westminster, and old-world atmosphere and open fires. who, accompanying the monarch on he became the first Irish Catholic Muckross Road (off N71); 064 663 a visit to Killarney in 1861, pronounced MP in the House of Commons. 1895; www.cahernane.com; closed it “the finest view in the realm.” It Nov–Jan Muckross Park Hotel moderate–expensive e Killarney National Park Dating from 1795, this is Killarney’s Co Kerry most beautifully located hotel, opposite Muckross Abbey. Elegant bedrooms. Killarney National Park covers approximately 25,000 acres (10,000 ha) Muckross Village; 064 662 3400; and encompasses three lakes – Upper, Muckross, and Leane – and the www.muckrosspark.com surrounding mountains. It contains Ireland’s largest area of ancient oak forest and its only remaining herd of indigenous red deer. Below Lovely Muckross House, in the heart of Killarney National Park A two-hour walking tour the working farm project at the This circular tour, known as the Dinis Traditional Farms (open May–Aug: daily; Walk, is a delightful stroll around Apr & Sep–Oct weekends) has recreated Muckross Lake, through ancient Irish rural life of the 1930s, before woodlands of oak and mountain ash. electrification. Mucros Pottery and The walk starts at Muckross House Weaving can be seen in action next (open daily) 1, next to the parking lot. to the craft shop in the Walled Garden The focal point of the park, the house Centre. From the house, there are is a fine Victorian residence, completed several alternative walks around the in 1843 to designs by Scottish architect lakes and through the woods or, for a William Burn. Queen Victoria herself different touring experience, trips in visited in 1861 as a guest of the a horse-drawn jaunting car are also Herbert family, who landscaped the possible (pick one up outside the house). gardens in her honour, planting them To continue the Dinis Walk, take the with azaleas and rhododendrons. path down to the lake and walk Today, the main rooms have been clockwise. After half an hour of renovated in period style. Next door, delightful woodland walking the path Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200 DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 59

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Above Riding in a traditional jaunting car reaches Old Weir Bridge 2, where Muckross Abbey 6, founded in 1448. through the woods in Killarney National Park Muckross Lake and the Upper Lake first Return to the parking lot, completing meet. Soon afterwards, the path arrives the circuit. Back in the car, turn left out at the thrilling Meeting of the Waters of the main entrance onto the N71. 3, where the Upper Lake actually Turn left before Killarney to the 15th- flows into Muckross Lake. It’s worth century Ross Castle, on a peninsula in pausing here to watch the boatmen Lough Leane. From here boats cross to negotiate the turbulent flow of Innisfallen Isle, home to the ruins of water. A little way further another abbey. along on the right is Dinis ª Return to the N71 and EAT AND DRINK IN KILLARNEY (Dinish) Cottage 4 (open continue to Killarney. May–Sep daily), an 18th- Bricin inexpensive century hunting lodge, r Killarney Bricin is Gaelic for small trout so it’s no now an eco-friendly tea Co Kerry surprise that fish dishes feature in this family-run restaurant and high-quality room. At this point, many Killarney is a convenient craft store. Also worth trying is boxty, visitors retrace their steps. For base from which to explore a traditional potato pancake. those doing this, a little way the natural splendors of the 26 High Street; 064 34902; along there is a short, easy Stained-glass national park. St. Mary’s www.bricin.com walk up a woodland trail pub window Cathedral, designed by Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant leading to the spectacular Pugin and built in 1842, is moderate 60-ft (20-m) Torc Waterfall. However, to considered Ireland’s finest example of At this excellent seafood restaurant carry on with the walk, continue along High Gothic, and is worth a visit. The you can choose from a wide selection of fish, cooked in a variety of ways. The the narrow stretch of land between little Victorian lanes that branch off lobster and wild Atlantic salmon steaks Muckross Lake and Lough Leane to the the main street are also enjoyable to are particularly succulent. Cozy, rustic picturesque arches of Brickeen (Bricin) wander. There are lively pubs – many decor, with an open fire. Bridge 5. Cross the bridge and carry playing live music – and restaurants 27 High Street; 064 663 2519; www.gabysireland.com on past Colleen Bawn Rock, following in the town, and a good choice of the path along Lough Leane to accommodation.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS lovely 6th-century ruined abbey – a monastery established in the Killarney or the area around Valentia on the heavily wooded island 6th century on the remote island of Island are ideal bases from which to of Inisfallen. Great Skellig. The drystone beehive explore the glorious Kerry landscape. From Killarney, take N71 to the Killarney huts built by the monks can be seen Lakes and abbeys National Park and park in Muckross on a cruise from the center or on an Stroll around Killarney r, and have House or Muckross Abbey parking lot independent boat trip from Valentia a look at the cathedral, then head (just before house on the right). Island or Portmagee. Back on dry to Killarney National Park e. After land, continue to Bray Tower or Islands and monasteries doing the Dinis Walk, take a Geokaun Mountain and the Fogher Explore Valentia Island 8, starting jaunting-car trip up to Muckross Cliffs for bracing clifftop walks. Abbey and on to the pier at Ross the day at the Skellig Experience Castle, where boat trips set off Centre to find out about the Skellig Follow the drive instructions from across Lough Leane to visit the Michael UNESCO World Heritage Site Ballinskelligs and Valentia Island.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50