Cycling The Savannah Way AN EPIC RIDE ACROSS CAPE YORK Campers and cyclists enjoy the Savannah Way in equal measure on the annual Clockwise from far left: to Karumba Bike Ride. Supporters and volunteers are the backbone of this community – it wouldn’t happen without their dedication and support!  Vast open spaces sum up the landscape as riders and supporters move westwards.  Road riders followed Words & images: Fiona Harper the bitumen for 780 km between Cairns and Karumba.  The Gulflander historic train runs between Croydon and Normanton.

here are really only two ways to of ride you’d tackle on a café-latte training twists and turns through the Kuranda do the Savannah Way. Straddling regime. Range, popping out of the rainforest onto Tthe continent between Broome in rolling hills and farmland of the Atherton The first C2K ride in 1996 was created as a the west and Cairns in the east, it’s an Tablelands. At almost 900 metres above fundraiser for the Cairns School of Distance iconic road trip right up there alongside sea level, skilled riders at the head of the Education. It’s since expanded to support notables such as Victoria’s Great Ocean pack ascend ever so slowly while others children living in remote rural areas of north Road or West Australia’s Cape to Cape. board the bus up the Kuranda Range Road. . Almost one million dollars Being so vast and isolated in spots it’s Dirty boys follow an old rail trail to Mareeba have been donated in the intervening years best to break it down into manageable Wetlands before riding into Northcote with bush kids and their education needs sections. Station. Riders and support crews re- being the biggest beneficiary. Remote group in Atherton, camping at the BIG4 Despite its remoteness, or perhaps because communities who benefit from donated Atherton Woodlands Tourist Park. A relative of it, it’s an extraordinary outback adventure. funds roll out the red carpet as the C2K metropolis (population 7300) compared to Not to mention the bragging rights that circus passes through town. come from such an epic escapade. towns further west, Atherton offers a fine I’ve roped my mum in as support crew to opportunity to stock up on produce that the You could drive the Savannah Way as drive our plush four-berth ‘mother ship’ Tablelands are famous for, like avocados, most people do. But why follow the crowd? Euro Tourer from Apollo Campers. It’s got corn, mangoes, bananas, macadamias and Why not ride it instead? We’re not talking all the bells and whistles. Think hot shower, coffee. motor bikes here, we’re talking good old flushing toilet, decent-sized fridge, oven and fashioned, pedal-powered bicycles. Ravenshoe cooktop and, most importantly, two super Herberton Historic Village is a cracker of a The best (and safest) way to cycle comfortable double beds. museum that is styled as a historic village Queensland’s Cape York section between Mum is also volunteering as part of the with a gazillion fascinating exhibits. Further the Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria catering crew tasked with feeding hungry on, the soothingly warm waters of Innot Hot is to join the annual Cairns to Karumba riders and support crews. Between shifts Springs would be an ideal place to soak Bike Ride (C2K). Which is how I find myself weary legs but there’s plenty of kilometres alongside 170 cyclists riding out of Cairns she’s packing up camp each day, driving to go and a schedule to keep so riders carry at dawn, bound for Karumba 780 km to to the next stop and setting up camp again. on while support crews linger. Queensland’s the west. Riders arrive in various stages of exhaustion and filth, particularly the mountain bikers most elevated town awaits, Ravenshoe For hard-core long distance cyclists who are known as dirty boys for good (pronounced Ravens-hoe, like no, not the Savannah Way is an alluringly crazy reason. Raven-shoe like new. Get it?). Rainforest challenge. With road trains the length of thrives at this elevation, so does the wind so 10 cars or more on a highway that is often Atherton Tablelands it’s a handy spot to position Queensland’s little more than a goat track, it’s not the sort Leaving Cairns, the largest wind farm.

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n Ba Mt Ste E e Ba there’s both jubilation and relief at the ld Hill wart lfes D Gu Abb Austral Downs o mlu ot P 2 L Bu R oin 0 G l rleigh Lolw avensw t R 0 o o E rth Cr od O C 689 997 eek L ester Island there is one of Earth’s longest lava flows e Ck la eco cabins like BIG4 WoodlandsF Caravan Park. Others, like Normanton rodeo M Bow ouc l K t A e l o gera l Cloncurry G in Charte E bbot n G Sunset Tavernr Monin Karumba’sMoun twaterfront. I e illiat Julia Cr d Home rs man Islan g sa r eek er stead I IN Hay d i o s To C 1056 n C wers from a single volcanic eruption almost grounds, are far more basic. pe H A a Richm Pentla Campas Dalbeg Whi lpurrurulam C ond nd R R tsu Seven days, 780 kilometres and with r N H A nda C Lake Nash e elia er iv M irlie Beac y Gro Mt Norna ek v Wamb e ount h Whits up Geor Mal Maxwe Ri C iana r Ra A unda R 200,000 years ago. Rainforest and wildlife gina Riv bon Vale A lton Hugh vensw C P y Isl er 415 enden P a ood R ollinsv C roserp and l rairie B ille L ine Hami E AnnitowaalmostDo w$100,000ns raised, this is an epic i p A lton Isl When to go c e D o R and O Ma k Torrens C w K E

ba lb T r n on e E E R ek T Li thrive in underground Undarra Lava Tubes, o e R C nde Ta Mt W n e man G F r a r brax C lker R M p u roup ride. But, perhaps what makes Dit really McKinlay r Long Lake idge m uch k to D P ess 472 e n alr oint u The 2016y ride is from 25 June 2016 to 1 July 2016. River ymple R l b CU a n s M SE l Cassili R A e e BERLA which is one of the longest lava tube cave L in s s R Ba r ND WY k Mo A y la A special is that it’s not just for cyclists. It’s N R c Stam Na unt Elsie N Mt Wil n ISLA Argadargada ANG M ford tal Downs liam Seaf d NDS

Uranda r E G or ngi Ck r th C systems in the world. e Kynu m E 1259 Sca Top to bottom: Mt Hogarth na a o h wf Dajarra v Further information h F ell t i Is i g N nch Hat a land hard to determine who has more fun, the L e 330 n t wlan ton n

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Ooratipp le M arr n e N ra Ph ount o owme u l o n r Cattle stations provided their own hazards with cattle reluctant to give way to riders or support Cara sphate Hill W Corfield Baren e G nd ya S l otta Apollo Campers30 4Cairns have campervans rangingd from two person budget through enden Wa M supporters or the riders! Billed as a Bucket s Mount Do Mo E lkerston ACKA drivers.  The famous Purple Pub at Normanton is a highlight of the Savannah Way. The population of Mt Surprise is more than b ug u G Y Chatsworth Aber las S nt Coolon AN o fo H yle Lake ut R ay Point

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i o an v D t k u Toolebuc h i Lucy Creek r r i Ne K i r e Moray D R s Go bo oumala F up to expectations.  g v owns t onye rede A i Lerida Co a lla ri rin C N c riders and supporters, which delights the R R C da O k i Mi k RTH Ree n ddle U f ton G O Roxb k e MB IS orough Downs 387 M ERL Tar a t Unbunma Winton M N AND O lton Downs roo a oran e n ba N V C (Bla i La R h C publican as we camp out in the paddock k ck Mou t ke G op k nt) alile pabe O R Marqua r n e lla Carm E a R ila u Fr J ankfi S m E eld alt S B bus IS ia C h Par LAN k DS M ut r behind the Mt Surprise Hotel. Gleno D taburr East rm a m B Jervois iston ere e P ROA Boulia A eak Do R D S e wns au A R o ma k rez d SO R iv M Ri Cork Q T Saraji UND SHOALW eef e U n Is ATER r u v n E N e a E a B l r to St La AY N y w l il A D a ren To i y M l s c w S B e g orella P art ns Georgetown m L Bla c he R i n e r A E d a a A t I N hol R slan n H A d B R D O Aram K Marion D ac I Clerm own on A s E t P H N O ort Georgetown is a ubiquitous name, no R D gmor Clinto a R e n E A S Cape y Cl R Middl O into Springvale Surbito G emou n C n A nt U Mar Tieri lboroug A L N h doubt because historically there were a ongre N Mayne River ach Capel Junee P Ver la D R Breadalba gemon A ne t P Byfi I eak V eld Coorabulka ale R y C Diamant Ba R R ro lot of explorer guys named George with k ina Lakes Ilfrac rcaldin M e itz R O omb e t T i A F e e able Ruby Leu R R Ar top vale z ra e rilalah N i r Je n v richo Y R 833 Em e Ya epp e C r r eral k amb oon i e Bog Ana d a r e v antu kie c a penchant for immortalisation. There are v v Ri ngan a Gr C e e R eat r r Ri Alp OC Keppe H e ha MBl KH Em C l I y Davenport c R ackwa AMP u Park sland A E li La ter TON U N D ke C at least four Georgetowns in Australia and Bedour Downs Connemara A Ma omet Grac el Bay R N ie B rabo eme pp T E N on re Ke k a Kinr Bluff I L C ola S C R e r Yaller apr e Warbr oi O a ico e o E r ccan c Durrand rn G o ella o Du C ro no less than 65 globally (USA takes a bow, V C m a Po u u I D ringa D rt Al rtis p o g D m I H R n r M A Mount a eron I e M s o Lake isf a o Is rs o Stonehenge e ord Sout W W rgan land ra I t h ow w a ar s v M N S n Glen Machattie F V B O GL they’ve got at least 44 of them). Georgetown, gyle U Spr lackwa Moun AD m Ri ingsur ter N s t Larc STO R Black e om NE M o all R I o onkira Palpa h iv C Nando Port Curtis C rara Arno astle D wrie Woo n Ca H T e vale D rabinda lliope Queensland doesn’t stake too many claims r Tann A Jun G I E Barala um Sand N dah Em R ba s N Bilpa Morea OW met G C N Ro N A E Cla AN lleston C L ypan R A alli to fame, but it can take credit for a number H o Yaraka R RANGE Banana de C G i R E urrawilla o A G c v y alway D r O Mo B A La A owns a P G Tam e ura B gnes dy E S r B E bo A il W llio I M P S O Thr o R r oe ate tt N D E S E e ee Sisters R la Miria r I R T N w Collab C N m V of notable mentions in Nevil Shute’s novel A 3 ara A onsuelo P Ri Than ale 00 e A go IN Retre e W ak ol N at l N T l v N C Mt D 1174 O r A N r umm e r E Windor ond I e A ah e A A Town like Alice. T r ES

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k A k r A IA D Betoo r R R D The U urrie ta e N odo Yan D e N E re dar E R an Trinida v v r O A Bi d i i o R P Mo Poeppel Corner rdsville e T V nto N R R g X G v R O i e E M r E N E B Sa oon A T a n da R r Croydon Lake N T Gi rgar dy C a R R T n a a o Gin pe l S A A W R Pandie Pan H Kee E die addon Corn K roongoolo g N B er o d A UN E R n H R r D e Craco Moun AB W a t E Once the centre of a gold rush, Croydon S T E C w P a a R U R T S Ada v R U erry G ddy T O N vale L i Eid H P Y D E S E R T R Augath B svold B ERVEY oint C W el C Thy N la U L lungra Am A u R Childe ake Etamunbanie O bathala Taro A r rs BAY o om was bursting at the seams with more than M N n o t Hut e U l to H Lake M n M tt ow Yamma Yamma l G undubber ard HERV u 9 a Bi E N a 40 Inju ggend Y BA (Ma B ne e 7000 residents in the late 1880s. Things ckillop) r n Y T Mount Howitt a E FRA k n Ga S r Cordillo D C yndah M ER I owns o ar S R A yb LA e R Cha or N rlevil a ou D v Arr R Eroma Quil le gh abury nga pie are a little more sedate these days with E Y Mo W rv a Ri Cheepie en ndoan Tiaro R P a O l O Westg la Munga just 300 residents residing in a veritable G ate l llala Pros M Clifton Hills e Wa ton Ti E Mo llu Gu n C O unt Marga Coolad g Mitc m lugub an Ba ret di n he b a y 0 a  For cars, 4WDs, caravans, R ll Rom il M 0 0 Du A a l ur 0 0 c rham Down C R a gon s G 2 0 u Yu 0 leb 0 a 2 living museum with restored heritage-listed m C W on 4 campers & trailers R Dulacca dai Gym b M p R i ie a n v Mil e e to s buildings everywhere you look. r Toom o r n Toberm pine o hinchilla Kin u o ory r C gar C River  N Guaranteedap for life Y a oy ooro N b pa Merrie ls Ja y OO r i E P Wyandr ndowae SA a a B HEA W r Innaminc R k C DS W Cowarie ka Tartu Nan r N e Humeb e lla o ang am G urn Surat n o i bo e Y u a s Croydon is one of two stops for the  k Simple, safe & lightning fast to use v Co d rram r M Nockatun r ndam a Bel an AR g e O a ine m l b O C CH Ri e i Y n a D r Gl e OR r enm K C E k r orga n ilcoy A C n L Gulflander train, famous for being a historic e e e Tara OUN  Suitable for all bikes from carbon v e B DR TIRARI DESERT e Moom v i Mea ribie A r ba Thargom R ndarra Dalb Crow Isla LAKE ulapula C Orientos indah Ri y s B nd M R o Lake lightweights to heavy electrics Dynevo k Nest ngaree train that goes from nowhere to nowhere EYRE r e Esk Mulka k o Do e Ku Cape o wns Cunn r mbar L M C ll amulla illa ake W Cab ore C Cec iv oo ton NORTH Bu Bo Lak il Plains Oake enhoe lture Mo (the terminus being Normanton). But that’s C r S T R Z E L E C K Delivery anywhere in Australia llon e Kajarab Moon y R reton oope I Yaka Eulo ie ie Island B ra a River Pi Mor Lake ulloo Downs l ttswor Gatto eton B N a th n a aryilco l m y a bit harsh – even if you’re not a train spotter Etadun Murr l St Cadiba na a Murr a Geor e rrawirracanna a a l ge i M k l n illm D E g erra A S a n E R T r e e o Leu B n n mea B I R La i e e o h PS IS ke W n W k v r u o M IC BA it’s worth hopping on board to savour some c La l M O H N ke Wy C Wo a O N E Gregory le ara M olerin Jim ort Ri e a B Nin OW boo h e C B digully DA TO mba Stra z Came aiwarr undal n RL Clif db r ron Corner o eer i ING ton Bo rok t Westl ood DO ona So e Is ea b lw W h u la history. Croydon rodeo grounds provide one S Ta obeah NS th S nd F e R o tr Clayton ort Grey Hungerford T Be adbroke (03) 9466 2553 | [email protected] | www.gripsport.com.auN iwindi audesert I Lake Blan D ond Warwic GO of the best camp sites on the entire ride with Lake Eyre che a irranbandi o kMC LD rra go er Thallo G Killa PHE CO South u ul iv n Inglew rney RSON AST Lake ab C Hebel R ood T o tt Yela WEE Marree k T u rbo E RA D plush green grass and shady trees. We plug Murnpeowie Callabonna Cree Tibooburra hurloo Dow o C M D n Stanth M HEA ns r Goo ung u orp ur Yan dooga indi m e willu DS a tabulla En m cha ngonia Weilm a Oc bah il oring R G Kyo ean T k P le re Texa gle Sho Tilcha C o s s M res g Yetman q Bo ullum Garah W nalbo bimby 4 Millers Creek a Wanaa e n r allan N Cape 0 Moolawatana am ring r garra B 0 0 nd r ra ra e Bo yron 0 0 Ya a a r v nshaw Ca 0 kh a Light sino By 2 ning A ron 0 GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPINGW AUSTRALIABo N Ridge Ri R Ba 0 64 | Freeling H Fords Br | 65 Coo y 0 eights idge Collare More latai LIS Ballin 4 ne e R M A a 944 bri Tente ORE lstonville Lyndhurst Mount Lyndhurst Salt Cum Mehi NS A rfield bora n A shfo C Andamo L Brew h o MASTERM rd oka Arkaroola ake arrina RA l Eva Olympic Dam Yancannia Terew w River a Ba ns Head Border Co ah r Wa r ry A Downs bham Or a rialda ulgil Roxby Narr Row Deep e Downs N an La B ena De wate Leig S ke lungra r n D h Creek E LAKE Bourke G Iluka A M len c G ount Mulya Bi Innes e M FROME Tong h Walg Bella ngara Ya Lak o e ta N m e Beltana N M tt R ba O Burre Inve Mac Yarraw n Jun rell y lean Yo O Y u in ct ung B i hus A o m band L C N n Ting AKE a l am G ha G K g o We w ra R o i e ft R n a Waa y b on A E E Lo a d u d o 0 u th g s i La r 0 ke Pe V a Pi r er t llig i Te y L I a 2 0 i ilta ake a N d l B Blinman n Cari unda EW 0 Ha Parachilna R nda e NAND rra EN a N rt i n E G ym 0 l White Byr W R LA bo 0 Cli oc r Na A id 2 l S ff k N a R a s rrabri R D 0

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