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NCompiled by Danielleovember Theunissen Photographs Lara Holmes This month’s must-buys, hot tips and happenings: a £3.57 wine, free food festival, new scotch eggs and liquorice

star recipe Just fill, roll and bake – and serve warm from the oven – for the easiest-ever brunch recipe

Sticky cinnamon buns 40 minutes n Makes 8 n EASY

unsalted 50g, softened ground almonds 2 tbsp soft brown 4 tbsp cinnamon 2 tsp ready-rolled puff 375g sheet

sultanas 3 tbsp ON , S n Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. U LBERT Beat the butter, ground almonds, sugar

S: ALI X C and cinnamon together. Unroll the sheet

ORD of and spread the butter mix all over. Sprinkle over the sultanas then roll up into a sausage from the long side. Cut into 8 pieces then put on a large non-stick baking tray, spiral-cut-side-up and flatten gently with your hand. Sprinkle with a little extra W B ir ks Sarah alder Styling:

EN THE U NI SS FF E , DANIELLE ANINE RATCLI sugar then bake for 15-20 minutes until

AN , J puffed and golden. n PER SERVING 296 kcals, protein 3.7g, carbs tyling: Kate C tyling: Kate

LLI V V E O ’SU 29.5g, fat 18.3g, sat fat 8.7g, fibre 0.1g, salt 0.5g S, E S, on. Food s on. Food U GRI M E U L S, L S, TINE HAYE s Webb-Wil tyling: P olly S, CHRI S S, ARD W LI Z ED Star recipe s recipe Star

november 2012 O 7 Onovember news, trends, shopping

Pop into Asda for a Supermarket Sweep speedy Spanish supper

Spanish omelette with When the bottom is set slide the whole pan chorizo and potatoes under the grill until the omelette is golden 30 minutes n Serves 2 n EASY on top and just cooked through in the Cook a packet ofB aby New Potatoes with middle. Serve with a generous sprinkle Butter & Herbs (£1/360g) following packet of chopped flat-leaf parsley (65p/25g). instructions and allow to cool. In the meantime, fry a packet ofS panish diced FANCY A GLASS WITH DINNER? chorizo (£1.85/130g) in an ovenproof pan, Try the crisp, clean, citrus and mineral until it starts to crisp. Slice the cooled notes of Pagos del Rey Blume Verdejo FREE potatoes and add to the pan. Whisk together 2011, Rueda, Spain, 13% (£6.98, Asda) 4 large free range eggs (£1.68/6) and pour with this traditional Spanish dish. BARGAIN them into the pan, turn down the heat. The great bath fest Throughout October, Bath is playing host to The Great Bath Feast. Highlights include The Fine Cheese Co. Festival on 27 October, £2.59 special events at Demuths Vegetarian per person restaurant and the Bath Taste Trail, calling or £6.08 in at the city’s best delis, restaurants and with wine pubs. (greatbathfeast.co.uk) Food Editors shopping basket Smoky wings JANINE RATCLIFFE’S TOP TIPSThe trend for USA-style BBQ continues Woman of the month and you don’t have to stop indulging once the weather turns.his T Maple CHRISTINA MOURATOGLOU TREND LIQUORICE Chipotle Grille sauce from the new M&S international range makes an Mazi’s simple décor matches the Try it with lamb, in a chocolate dessert authentic smoky glaze for meat and veg. Bake chicken wings in a 160C/fan aesthetic of the food. ‘We take traditional or chew on a piece of liquorice root. 140C/gas 3 oven for an hour then brush all over with the sauce, turn up the READER POLL recipes the way grandmama used to Chefs love liquorice, and fortuitously, farmer Robert Copley has heat to high and keep cooking and basting until sticky. Serve with soured We asked you on facebook, if you could make them and update with authentic just started growing it again in Pontefract (it hasn’t been grown cream mixed with a little blue cheese. (£4.99, 308g bottle) only have one between mash, roasties ingredients. We might use lemon confit there for over 100 years). Daniel Galmiche stuffs pieces of fresh or chips, which one would you choose… instead of lemon juice, for instance.’ liquorice root into lamb loin and Matt ebuttT uses Pontefract There’s deconstructed , cakes to flavour parfait (both recipes are on uktv.co.uk/food). with all the elements (spinach, feta and If you really want to impress your friends, try the chocolate ) in a jar, kritama seaweed in the liquorice delice with cocoa chilli wafers from The Modern Pantry BLOWOUTELECTROLUX Greek salad and lobster with orzo and cookbook, (£25, O offer £21.50 with free p&p*, Ebury.) Or Metaxa brandy. just eat it. SugarSin in Covent Garden has plenty (sugarsin.co.uk), With everything from a O So what’s next? ‘We want to expand our favourite being school chalk liquorice crayons, £1.49/100g. precision vacuum sealer but we won’t do another Mazi – it will be for cooking sous-vide modern Greek but with a different twist. to a stainless steel sear Roasties Best Buy ‘I realised there was not one authentic or We’ve already heard rumours about hob, recreate the up-to-date Greek restaurant in London,’ other people doing similar things. It’s restaurant kitchen wine says Christina Mouratoglou, co-owner time for the Greek restaurant industry in Tesco Simply Côtes experience at of new Notting Hill restaurant and deli, London to move on. And if we started du Rhône 2011, home with the Mazi (mazi.co.uk). But she knew ‘there that, we’d be proud.’ new Grand Cuisine 43% France, 13.5% was a gap in the market’ because the (£3.57, Tesco) range from Greek food she put alongside the Middle Electrolux. This Mash 35% Just as it says on Eastern dishes at her former London the label, this is stand mixer has venture, Baity Kitchen, ‘would sell out a unique planetary straightforward, Chips 13% within minutes’. well-made wine packed movement and can *There was one rogue vote for a jacket Originally from Thessaloniki, with bramble fruits and handle whisking just potato, it was not counted Mouratoglou came to the UK 20 years a soft, easy finish. Team as well as it kneads ago, studying, then working in PR. But it with supper any night heavy .

book offers, call 01326 569444 or buy online at olive.sparkledirect.com 569444 01326 call book offers, she was soon pulled back to her family’s of the week. (approx £1,500; love of food (‘if we’re having lunch, my O s m organ gareth portrait: grandcuisine.com) s m organ gareth portrait: *For mother asks what we want for dinner…’).

8 O november 2012 november 2012 O 9 Onovember news, trends, shopping table hopping BREAK MELTON MOWBRAY For a lighter take on cinnamon buns, pop here CHAMPAGNE + FROMAGE It’s not just pork pies and stilton that have into a branch of Gail’s , who make Covent Garden has revamped its reputation led Melton Mowbray to call itself Rural theirs with dough, for a as an eating-out destination in the past year Capital of Food and become the focus light-as-air, cinnamon – in part thanks to Champagne + Fromage, of the Leicestershire Food Fortnight filled treat. (£2.25, a perfect pre-, post- or instead-of-theatre (22 Sep-7 Oct; goleicestershire.com/ gailsbread.co.uk) spot. Owners Maud Fierobe and Stefano O reader Melanie foodfortnight2012). Yes, the town is Frigerio stock grower champagnes – from Ruffino from Bristol home to numerous and cheese shops small-scale producers who make wine from shares her recipe for (porkpie.co.uk; meltoncheeseboard.co. their own vineyards. There’s a wide range a classic Italian . uk), there’s a thriving weekly livestock by the bottle, and a decent number by the She says: ‘This tart can market and great cafés, but head out to BUY glass, such as the Furdyna Carte Blanche be served hot or cold. the surrounding countryside and you’ll This deliciously indulgent brut, £9. All go well the generous cheese I serve it as a dessert find a fine local microbrewery lasagne al forno is seven layers and charcuterie boards, £8. (frenchbubbles. but Italians would eat (belvoirbrewery.co.uk), well-stocked deep, made with a splash of co.uk/champagne-fromage) this at breakfast.’ farmshop and café (northfieldfarm.com) chianti and topped with a and beautiful bison and venison steaks parmesan béchamel. Part of happening LIMA straight from the farm (bisons.org). Local the new range of authentic Much-garlanded Lima chef Virgilio producers make for impressive ales and Italian meals, sauces, fresh Martinez is behind this new Fitzrovia What I’m eating in November pasta and breads from restaurant. There is a sky-lit, buzzy dining Carluccio’s, try it with their area; dinky bar up serving pisco sours, £6, Crostata di mele n Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. pane all’aglio – Italian flat and chilli-infused cuento del Diablo, £8; and e mandorle Roll pastry out to 20p thickness and use to bread, topped with garlic DOUBLE DEAL... a highlight-packed menu. Try the sea (apple and almond tart) line a 23cm tart tin. Spread jam over the base. and parsley butter. (£4.79, Pop into a branch of Gail’s bakery for a rich cinnamon filled treat bream ceviche, £8, and braised octopus 1 hour n Serves 8 n a little effort n To make the filling, beat all the ingredients Sainbury’s) made from croissant dough. (£2.25, gailsbread.co.uk) with intensely olive-flavoured ‘bubbles’, £10. together with electric beaters until light and REAL DEAL … Or try out the three-course £20 set-lunch sweet shortcrust pastry 350g fluffy. Spoon into the pastry case and level Keen bakers can make our super-simple menu. (limalondon.com) apricot jam 5 tbsp the surface with a knife. REArecipe for cinnamonL D bunsEA on pageL... XX. FILLING n Put the slices of apples on top of the tart, Clever bakers can make our cheats recipe for cinnamon buns on page 7. hitlist WABI Scott Hallsworth butter 115g, softened in overlapping rows to form a cross. Press notched up a good few years at Nobu, in golden caster sugar 115g the slices gently into the filling. Warm the London and Melbourne, before returning ground almonds 115g apricot jam together with 1 tbsp water in a ate calder tyling: k ate to the UK to launch his own place, Wabi, plain flour25g small pan and brush half the liquid over the tGood for you tGood value tGourmet ood s in Horsham a few years ago. Now he’s eggs 2, beaten apples. Put the tin in the oven and bake for ONE-POT MEALS opening a branch in Holborn in mid almond extract 3 or 4 drops 35-40 minutes or until the tart is lightly pub food at the rustic-charming Red Good for you Good value Gourmet

October – much bigger, with more bells TOPPING browned. Re-heat the remaining jam glaze f bir ks arah Lion Inn in Stathern (theredlioninn.co. Packed with pulses, three of Hearty, wholesome comfort food British pork is and whistles. There’ll be a sushi bar, a eating apples 3, peeled and thinly sliced and brush over the tart. Cool before cutting. uk). For lunch, follow Guinness-pickled your five-a-day and using Fairtrade kidney at its best – Braised Beef, Neeps slow-cooked tyling: s rn to page 138 page , t u rn to s

pastry bar, a sake sommelier and a theatre apricot jam 4 tbsp n PER SERVING 535 kcals, protein 7.6g, carbs t quail eggs, £3, with a rump steak burger beans this Easy Bean New Mexican Chilli is & Tatties Brit Pot, with with slices of s s kitchen complete with Josper and robata 50g, fat 33.6g, sat fat 12.3g, fibre 1.8g, salt 0.7g and chips, £10.50. Stay at elegant sure to fill you up. £3.49/320g,( selected sweetheart spicy chorizo, grills. And plenty of high-end Europeanised Stapleford Park, where rooms overlook Waitrose and Booths, cabbage and nutty chickpeas Japanese dishes, such as tea-smoked duck Melanie wins wins this month’s prize of a Stellar James Martin five-piece knife block extensive parkland (doubles from £288, various delis) redcurrant and fresh veggies tataki with burnt ginger amazu sauce, and with chopping board, worth £120. The knives have finely honed stainless steel blades, or k o u t r co b&b; staplefordpark.com). Highlights gravy. in this Stewed! Chorizo,

avocado and king crab roll with yuzu kosho are easy to sharpen and resistant to stains and rust. orF more information visit w e from the £75 tasting menu include (£3.79/380g, Chickpea & Pork one-pot. mayo, olive oil and yuzu juice. stellarcookware.co.uk. For your chance to win, email a recipe of your own invention veal sweetbreads with parsley risotto. cookfood.net) (£3.79/325g, Waitrose o s ee ho (wabirestaurants.com) to [email protected]. hol m e lara photograph: recipe T Three-course à la carte from £46.50. and Budgens)

QUICK BITES As tried in the O test kitchen this month

Try the cone-shaped Rigby and Mac Put some fire in your This is not just sushi at Yoobi, is a cute online belly with African Volcano a scotch egg, it’s London’s first homeware sauce. (£6.75 a bottle, a runny yolk, M&S temakeria. Our pick; emporium. africanvolcano.com; 30p poached scotch egg citrus salmon, topped We love these from every sale goes with a golden flaked with orange tobiko pretty floral to Habitat for Humanity’s crumb. (£2.99/2, and yuzo mayo. beakers. (£6.95, Youth Build Project) Marks & Spencer) (£3.60, loveyoobi.com) rigbyandmac.com)

10 O november 2012 november 2012 O 11 Onovember news, trends, shopping

BOLTHOLE NO.11 CADOGAN gardens There’s an air of exclusivity about No 11 Cadogan Gardens that goes beyond its Sloane Square location. Until recently for private members only, BOOZE MAGNIFIQUE the entrance of this 54-bedroom hotel retains a clubby feel, with its discreet, wood-panelled reception and library. The dark, leather-armchaired bar, Enter Good Godfrey’s bar in the grand Waldorf Hilton is perfect for cosy after-dinner cocktails. Dinner itself is served in the in Aldwych and you’re transported to another era. Sleek monochrome restaurant, where every wall is covered with black and white marble tables sit alongside the original wooden panelling photos of celebrities - it’s very Chelsea. The menu of solid Brit classics while the grand chrome, marble and granite bar pays homage includes seared scallops with apple and ginger purée, £12, 28-day hung to the Roaring Twenties. Choose from an impressive list of McDuff Scottish rump steak, £23.50, and cherry and almond , seasonal, signature or classic cocktails – the Magnifique was £6.50. There’s no more convenient base for Knightsbridge and central created by charismatic head barman Nelson Bernardes. Pour London, with O favourite Tinello and the soon-to-open Café Colbert 40ml Ketel One vodka, 15ml green Chartreuse, 15ml fresh on the doorstep. Rates start from £225 per night for a superior room, each lime juice, 10ml gomme syrup, 20ml egg white and a bar individually designed, with marbelled bathrooms, and Molton Brown spoon of celery bitters into a cocktail shaker. Add 3 mint toileteries. Hearty full English or eggs Benedict set you up for a day’s leaves, a handful of ice, and shake together well. Double strain shopping at nearby cook’s paradise David Mellor, Heal’s, Peter Jones and the liquid into a coupette glass to serve. (waldorfhilton.co.uk/ the rest of the King’s Road. (no11cadogangardens.com, part of slh.com) dining-bars/good-godfreys)

more QUICK BITES...

Try Marley Coffee – Made with wine from the Three made by Bob’s son Rohan. Choirs Vineyard in Gloucestershire, There’s fruity One Love, and 24 botanicals, Sacred Spiced smoky Buffalo Soldier English Vermouth has a gentle and caramel-flavoured bitter flavour. Anyone for Lively Up! (£7.99/227g a negroni? (£31.95/70cl, inc delivery, sacredspiritscompany.com) marleycoffee.co.uk)

november 2012 november 2012