The Official Publication of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. Vol. 24, No. 1 February 1 998 THE LEWIS AND CLARK TRAIL HERITAGE FOUNDATION, INC. In this issue- Incorporated 1969 under Missouri General Not-For-Profit Corporation Act IRS Exemption Certificate No. 501(C)(3)- ldentification No. 51-01 87715 Page 4- OFFICERS ACTIVE PAST PRESIDENTS A Grand Tower President Irving W. Anderson James M. Peterson Po1·t1a nd. Oregon The Mississippi Tower Rock 503 Poplar Avenue Robert K. Doerk, Jr. Vermillion, SD 57069 Ann Rogers Chey enne. Wyoming President Elect David Borlaug James R. Fazio Page 8- Box 492 Moscow. Idaho "0ne Remarkable Lady" Washburn . ND 58577 Robert E. Garren. Jr. Vice President Greensborn. North Ca rolina An Interview w ith Blanche Schroer Cindy Orlando H. John Montague Marie Webster Weisbrod Box 604-FC Portland. Oregon Asteria, OR 971 03 Donald F. Nell Page 11- Secretary Bozeman. Montana Ludd Trozpek lmpressions of an Evening at 41 41 Via Padova William P. Sherman Claremont. CA 91 7 1 1 Portland. Oregon the White House and an Treasurer L. Edwin Wang Invitation for the President Jerry Garrett Minneapolis, M innesota 1O174 Sakura Drive Wilbur P. Werner Page 13- St. Louis, MO 63128 Mesa, Arizona Immediate Past President From the Mouth of the Marias Clyde G. "Sid" Huggins Smarr E. Knapp Mandeville, LA Bozeman. MT 59715 to the Gates of the Mountains Executive Director Phil Scriver M ichelle Bussard 7237 E. 20th Page 16- Portland. OR 97202 A Great Time in the Gorge DIRECTORS AT LARGE A PICTORIAL REVIEW OF THE ANNUAL MEETING Jane Henley Robert Weir Barbara Kubik Philip C. Althen Charlotresville. Virginia Scranwn. Pennsylvania Kennewick. Washington Stevensville. Montana Roben Shattuck Frank Muhly James Holmberg Dark Rain Thom Page 21- Grass Valley. California Ph iladelphia. Pennsylvania Louisville. Kenwcky Bloomington. Indiana "Roll on Co lumbia"~ Jane Schmoyer-Weber Lewis and Clark Trait Herimge Foundation. Inc. Great Falls. Moncana Membership Sec rerary • P.O. Box 3434 • Great Falls, MT 59403 A Postscript Martin Plamondon II ABOUT THE FOUNDATION The purpose of the Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc., is to stimulate public interest in matters relating to the Lewis and Clark Expedition, the contributions to American history made by the Expedition members, and events of time and place concern ing the expedition which are of historical Import to our nation. The Foundation recognizes the value of tourist-oriented programs, and supports activities which enhance the emjoyment and understanding of the Lewis and Clark story. The scope of the activities of the Foundation is broad and div erse, and includes involvement in MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION pursuits which, in the judgment of the directors, are of historical worth or contemporary social value, and commensurate with the heritage of Lewis and Clark. The activities of the National Foundation are intended to complement and supplement those of state and local Lewis and Clark interest groups. The Foundation may appropriately recognize and Membership in the Lewis and Clark Trail honor individuals or groups for art works of distinction, achievement in the broad field of Lewis and Clark historical Heritage Foundation, Inc. is open to the general research, writing, or deeds which promote the general purpose and scope of activities of the Foundation. Membership in the organization comprises a broad spectrum of Lewis and Clark enthusiasts including federal, state, and local public. Information and an application are avail­ government officials, historians, scholars and others of wide-ranging Lewis and Clar!< Interests. Officers of the able by sending a request to: Membership Sec­ Foundation are elected from the membership. The annual meeting of the Foundation is traditionally held during August, the birth month of both Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. The meeting place is rotated among the states, and tours retary; Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Founda­ generally are arranged to visit sites in the area of the annual meeting which have historic association with the Lewis and Clark Expedition. tion, Inc.; P.O. Box3434; Great Falls, MT59403. We Proceeded On, the quarterly magazine of the Foundation, is mailed to current members ~- during the months of February, May, August, ... and November. "' ··proC,ti~«f:.: ~. ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP CATEGORIES* ff)e -~... ;.~J~1P~~;.;.- > •'{ Regular $ 30.00 We Proceeded On is the official publication of [he Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, inc. Family 40.00 The publication's name is derived from che phrase which appears repeatedly in che collective International 40.00 journals of rhe famous expedition. Heritage Club 50.00 E.G. CHUINARD, M.D .. FOUNDER ISSN 0275-6706 Regular-3 Yr. 80.00 Explorer Club 100.00 Marcin L. Erickson, Editor Jefferson Club 150.00 1203 28rh Scree[ Sou[h #82 Grear Falls, MT 59405 Discovery Club 500.00 (406) 761 -4706 Expedition Club 1,000.00 Leadership Club 5,000.00 EDITORIAL BOARD

Robert C. Carriker. Spokane, WA Editorial Consultant: Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. is a tax exempt Robert K. Doerk. Jr., Cheyenne, WY Vivian A. Paladin nonprofit corporation : 501(c)(3), IRS identification no. 51- Robert R. Hum . Seattle. WA Helena, MT 0187715. Individual membership dues are not tax deductible. The portion of premium dues over $30 is tax deductible.

2 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY J 998 by James M. Peterson As the bicentennial of the exploration undertaken tion will be held earlier than usual. The meeting, at by the Corps of Discovery draws ever closer, the Great Falls, Montana, will begin with registration on groundswell of interest continues to build. Among Monday, June 29, 1998. activities being considered, or underway, are movies, This deviation from the tradition meeting time a "National Geographic Special" based upon Stephen will permit foundation members to "kill two birds Ambrose's Undaunted Courage, a "trail ride" along with one stone." A single trip to Great Falls will en­ the trail, east to west, picture books (of the trail as it able interested members not only to attend the an­ was-so far as can now be depicted and at least one nual foundation meeting, but, immediately book of trail sites as they appear today), publicity by following, to attend Great Falls' Tenth Annual Lewis state tourism bureaus, tours by travel agencies (and & Clark Festival" (the festival). A major feature of the at least one tour to familiarize travel agents with the festival, and a matter of real significance to the foun­ trail), newspaper and magazine articles, improved dation, will be the grand opening of the U.S. Forest signage along the trail and a plethora of other trail­ Service's Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center which related activity. This increased awareness of the trail, will house the foundation's headquarters. This its importance and the approaching bicentennial of 25,000 square foot center overlooks the river and the expedition have led to increased interest in the will contain a theater, exhibits relating to the expedi­ LCTHF, Inc., and our membership continues to grow. tion and serve as a general information center for As indicated in the preceding "President's Mes­ matters pertaining to the expedition. I have no hesi­ sage" (Nov., t 997 issue of WPO), note should be tancy whatsoever in encouraging attendance at the made that the t 998 annual meeting of the fo unda- (President's Message continued on page 31)

~'lom the £.dito'l 's '/::)esk

The White House was calling, and, on the." . ~ . the center director, invited several groups involved evening of November 10th, a number of foundation w ith the center to take a tour of the building in early members traveled to Washington, D.C. to spend an December. What they saw was an absolutely breath­ evening with President Bill Clinton. The occasion taking creation. The attention to detail in the center was the showing of highlights from Ken Burns' from major displays to the color of the walls and car­ " Lewis and Clark: The j ourney of the Corps of Dis­ pets is designed to put you right back with Lewis and cover." I've asked some of those who attended to Clark and the Corps of Discovery. The exhibit build­ give us their impressions of the event. ers, for example, hauled in dirt from North Dakota to Dale Gorman , the president of Fund, Inc. (the cover a replica of a Mandan Indian earth lodge. I fund raising board for the Great Palls Lewis and Clark don't suppose the dirt in North Dakota looks too Interpretive Center/foundation headquarters) hand much different from the dirt in Montana, but they carried an invitation to President Clinton to be the want absolute authenticity in their exhibits. The main speaker at the grand opening of the center grasses used are native to the central Montana area. next July 4th. He will also tell you of some other re­ Even the prickly pear that so tormented expedition ally interesting guests he has invited to be at the members has genuine prickly pear spines labori­ grand opening. Dale's comments and others' ously hand placed on the rubber replicas. thoughts about the evening at the White House start As.general public interest increases in the expedi­ on page 11. tion, so does the interest of those who strive to more Speaking of the interpretive center, Jane Weber, (Editor's Note continued on page 31)

ON THE COVER-A rainbow just below Rainbow Dam near Great Falls, Montana, was captured on film by Steve Lee. The small falls below the rainbow is Crooked Falls.

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 3 -

THE MISSISSIPPI'S TOWER ROCK

by Ann Rogers ewis and Clark. knew it as the Grand Tower; today it is called Tower Rock. Since ewh ite explorers first saw the landmark. more than 300 years ago, it has had at least four other names. The limestone formation stands in the Mississippi River about 100 miles south of St. Louis and 28 river miles north of Cape Girardeau. The town of Grand Tower. Illinois, is directly across the river. The nearest Missouri town is Wittenberg, in Perry County. Lewis and Clark reached the tower on November 25, 1803, during their 23-day j ourney up the Present day Tower Rock - Photo by Ann Rogers Mississippi from the Ohio to the expedition's winter camp near the assume different shapes and sizes He found the rock. to be "limestone confluence with the Missouri. as the pebbles of runing streams & the same quality of the clifts The Cape Girardeau entry in usually do tho' now firmly united heretofore discribed." Lewis' journal recounts an enj oy­ and forming a portion of the solid With the remaining light that able evening with the comman­ mass of this rock-many parts of November afternoon, Lewis scaled the rock has also a considerable dant, Louis Lorimier, and his the tower and, at the southeast portion of grit or sand in it's hospitable family. For the next few composition tho· I was informed corner, dropped a co rd to measure days, Lewis turned his attention to at Captjeradeau where the same the height, which he recorded as the landscape, especially the cli ffs rock appears, that it makes very 92 feet. He also used this vantage "rising perpendicularly from the good lime. 1 point to take some bearings. water's edge" on the west, or The waters he saw surrounding The following day. with the Missouri, side of the river. the rock posed no unusual threat, boats about two miles above the His journal provides a detailed but he knew that under other Apple River, Lewis wrote: "Arrived description: conditions they were treacherous. at the Grand Tower a little before Writing in his journal the next day, The rock which compose these sunset, passed above it and came he noted that when the river was clips is a singular one tho' not too on the Lard. shore for the high, a second and narrower uncommon to this country it is a night. A discription of this place Limestone principally. but imbeded channel forced its way between will be given in my j ournal tomor­ in this stone there are detached the tower and the west bank row. " He then set about the explo­ pieces of a stone resembleing flint before rejoining the main channel ration needed to fulfill his promise. ofye//owish brown colour which in "an immence and dangerous He noticed on the west side, appear at some former period to whirlpool. " If any boats dared to have been woarn smothe and about 25 feet up, "a small cavern." approach, "the counter

4 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 courent. .. would instandly dash hills on both sides of the river, he heart-shaped; on the other it is them to attoms and the whirlpool observed: "All appear once to have represented by a square. Both would as quickly take them to the formed a part of the range of hills maps use a circle to indicate a botom ."2 which cross the Mississippi at this nearby mound "in the form of a The navigational hazards pre­ place, and which in the course of sugarloaf." (Lewis climbed that sented by the tower helped to time have been broken down by formation, too, and enjoyed what make it the subject of numerous the river." he called "a m ost beautifull and legends. Lewis had picked up some While Lewis made his reconnais­ commanding view. ") of the lore, for he wrote: "This sance and recorded his findings, On the second map, Clark seems among the watermen of the Clark drew two maps showing the numbered and described 1O mississippi to be what the tropics tower and surrounding features. features, beginning with "the or Equanoxial line is with regard to Both maps are reproduced in the Grand Tower in the Mississippi." the Sailors; those who have never Atlas of the Lewis and Clark Expedi­ Along w ith the geographic passed it before are always com­ tion, edited by Gary E. Moulton. features and their identifications, pelled to pay or furnish some On one, drawn on the reverse of Clark included a sketch of the sperits to drink or be ducked. "3 his memorandum listing crew and keelboat on both maps, to mark Of the Grand Tower's relation to supplies, the tower appears almost the expedition's campsite on the

•

1-"'-H11'1' ,.,, - I ,;I v-'"... Y/" ...... '"' ~ .ll":;t•Lr,/t' .. __ ...... , ...... ~

After KARL BOD MER: "Tower-Rock, view on the Mississippi" Joslyn Art Museum. Omaha. Nebraska; Gift of the Enron Art Founda1ion

FEBRUARY 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 5 west side of the river, j ust above resulting in a "furious combat of idea of a work of art. It is not the tower. the waters" anc;i a "great roaring," impossible that a bridge may be The sketches show the boat as which struck terror in the Indians. constructed here, for which this having two masts, each with a Twenty-five years later, j ohn rock shall serve as a pier. " 7 yard. A flag flies from a staff Francis Buisson De St. Cosme, (The tower never became a mounted on the windowed cabin along with two fellow Jesuits, m ade bridge pier, but on February 24, at the boat's stern. a difficult ascent of a rock believed 1871, President Grant signed an These sketches are far less to be the Grand Tower. In a letter executive order declaring the rock familiar than the pair of drawings to the Bishop of Quebec, he wrote "reserved for public purposes, as Clark made at Camp Dubois as the of the formation and their visit to recommended by the Secretary of vessel was being modified for its its summit: the Interior. ")8 journey up the Missouri. Those A rock making the river turn back In March 1833, Swiss artist Karl give a deck plan showing the very abruptly and narrowing the Bodmer and his patron, Prince placement of oars and a profile channel forms a kind of Maximilian of Wied, passed the showing the boat w ith a single whirlpool. .. Fourteen Miamis were formation as they-like Lewis and mast. once lost there, which has ren­ Clark-traveled up the Mississippi as But the tiny sketches on the dered the spot fearful among the preface to an ascent of the Mis­ Grand Tower maps are Clark's Indians, so that they are accus­ souri. earliest representations of the tomed to make some sacrifices to Their American journey was, in keelboat in which he, other mem­ . this rock when they pass: On it we part, influenced by Biddle's edition planted a beautiful cross, singing bers of the Corps of Discovery, and of the Lewis and Clark journals; the Vexilla Regis, and our people their cargo would travel 1 ,600 and Maximilian would m eet w ith fired three volleys of musketry. 5 miles up the Missouri to the Clark in St. Louis and receive Mandans. Their placement of a cross gave copies of his maps of the lower Two days beyond the Grand the tower two other names-the Missouri.9 Tower, Clark was given command Rock of St . Cosme and La Roche Maximilian described the of the keelboat, pirogues, and men de la Croix. Mississippi's Grand Tower as "an while Lewis went overland to find Seven years after Clark sketched isolated, cylindrical rock .. .which more recruits, obtain supplies, and the Corps of Discovery's keelboat we reached when it was splendidly make additional preparations. at the tower, john James Audubon illumined by the setting sun." Its Lewis also turned over to Clark ascended an ice-jammed Missis­ summit, he added, was "crowned the duty of journal-keeping and sippi aboard a keelboat "propelled with red cedars." 10 apparently did not resume making by pushing with long poles against Those trees were seen by regular entries until April, 1805. the ice, or the bottom, whenever it Edmund Flagg in 1836 as "a Tower Rock is the last landmark could be touched." Audubon wrote shaggy crown of rifted cedars, Lewis' journal describes east of the of the additional threat posed by rocking in every blast that sweeps Mandan villages. the tower: "Our cordelles were the stream, whose turbid current More than a century before used to force a passage at this boils, and chafes, and rages at the Lewis and Clark saw Tower Rock, it dangerous spot; and our men, obstruction below. " 11 was described by Jesuit missionar­ clinging to the rock as well they Probably the river's best-known ies. In 1673, Father Jacques could, looked as if each movement chronicler is Mark Twain, who Marquette an d Louis Joliet traveled would plunge them into the wrote of his experiences as a cub­ down the Mississippi and, a day or abyss."6 pilot in Life on the Mississippi. In two before reaching the Ohio, With the boat stopped for the that 1883 narrative, Twain called "passed a place dreaded by the night just above the tower, the the tower "a piece of nature's Indians, because they think that naturalist listened to the "continual fanciful handiwork" and "one of there is a manitou there, that is, a howling of the wolves" on the the most picturesque features of demon who devours all who wooded Illinois hills "opposite to the scenery of that region." pass. " 4 this rock." The tower has been pictured by Marquette's narrative explains An account of Major S.H. Long's artists using a variety of mediums. that he found this "devil" to be a 1 81 9 expedition to the Rocky Scenes along the Mississippi were small bay where the river's whirl­ Mountains provides another view: presented during the 1840s in a ing current was "hurled back ... and "The Grand Tower, from its form unique art form known as the · checked by a neighboring island," and situation, strongly suggests the panorama, which "required an

6 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 audience to sit for two or three shows the tower with a cross on its steeply angled top heighten the hours while hundreds of yards of summit, while a black-robed effect. colorful canvas were slowly un­ Marquette walks in the fo reground Lewis and Clark would no doubt wound from one cylinder and w ith Joliet at this side. recognize Tower Rock from a wound onto another. " 12 The artists Missouri artist Gary R. Lucy used photograph. But the camera does who traveled the Mississippi the landmark as background for not offer the best image. Nor is the sketched river scenes and then his 1 995 painting "Mississippi tower seen best from today's river, transferred their work to the River Flatboatmen: Navigating Past where natural reference points canvases invariably included Tower Tower Rock, 1831 . " He chose the have lost much of their former Rock among their subjects. tower, he said, because this natural significance. We need the vision of Nineteenth century histories of reference point on the river ap­ the artist. the river were illustrated with pears in virtually all the literature The tower is the place where engravings based on drawings of about the Mississippi. combatant currents boiled and Tower Rock by Alfred Waud, who For Karl Bodmer, the tower was roared, where a manitou destroyed made three trips along the Missis­ not background but a forceful and wolves howled, where priests sippi between 1866 and 1872. subject. lt dominates the scene, raised a cross and countered The Jake Wells mural in the Kent looming above a passing steam­ terrors with a Latin hymn, where Library of Southeast Missouri State boat and the flatboats at the rock's Clark mapped the river and University at Cape Girardeau base. The nearly frontal view and sketched the keelboat, where · Lewis stood at the summit and remembered rituals. The dramatic portrait by Karl Bodmer makes visible the Grand Tower of history, legend, and the imagination. -FOOTNOTES- ']oumals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 'I ed. Gary e. Moulton (Li ncoln, 1986). 2: 11 O. 2/bid, 11 5. 3 fbid, 112-1 3. 4John Gilmary Shea. Discovery and ~· Exploration of the Mississippi Valley (New York, 1853), p. 41. 5Shea. Early Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi (Albany, 1861), p. 68. 6 "Audubon's j ourney Up the Mississippi," ed. John Francis McDermott, in journal of the Illinois State Historical Society. Vol. 35, no. 2 Uune. 1942), 168. 7 Early Western 7ravels, ed. Reuben Gold Thwaites (Cl eveland, 1905), 14: 97-8. 8j ess Thilenius and Felix Snyder, Tower Rock (monograph, 1968). p. 29. 9 Donald Jackson, Voyages of the Steamboat Yellow Stone (Norman . 1987), p. 80. 10Thwaites, 22: 208-09. II Ibid, 26: 89. 12McDermott, The Lost Panoramas of the Mississippi (Chicago, 1958), p. 7.

About the author ... Foundation member Ann Rogers received her Ph.D. from St. Louis University and taught for 12 yea rs. most recently at Maryville Univer­ sity. The expanded version of her book Lewis and Clark in Missouri Clark's Map of the Grand Tower route about November 25, 1803. was reviewed in WPO August 1994. Yale Collection of 'Western Americana. Beineck.e Rare Book and Manuscripr Library

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 7 by Marie Webster Weisbrod

My introduction to Blanche Schroer took place in Indian service physician and hospital adminis­ a Wyoming public library-not in person but in trator, he moved his family from the Ute print: "Lander author says Sacajawea isn't bur­ Reservation in Colorado to the Winnebago ied in Fort Cemetery." The words headlin­ Sioux in Nebraska and, finally, in 1929, ing the Lander journal sparked my curios­ to the Shoshone Reservation in Wyo­ ity since I had, an hour before, visited the ming. I married Frederick Schroer, a supposed grave site. As a Lewis and Clark high school teacher and business­ history buff, I had read the two volume man, and we had one son. While Biddle edition of their j ournals and living on the reservation, and in couldn't equate the Native American Lander when quarters weren't heroine w ith Wyoming. Little did I available at the Fort, I worked as know that I would discover another bookkeeper for Matt McGuire, heroine: a debunker of myths, a cru­ proprietor of the Post Trading sader for truth in history. Company. I was traveling south fo llowing the Weisbrod. So-growing up on Continental Divide from Canada to Indian reservations, you have Mexico, researching western women personal knowledge and an under­ writers, when I made the detour through standing of Native Americans? Fort Washakie-guided by spurious informa­ Schroe. Yes, and empathy for. But tion in the AAA Tour Book. Driving on to minimal formal education. Because of Lander, I asked the librarian for details about illness, I was kept out of school twice, Sacajawea in Wyoming and was directed to the each time for half a school year, and I vertical files. The contents of numerous newspaper skipped eighth grade. This adds up to ten years and magazine articles regarding the "controversy" led of schooling before graduating as valedictorian. I to six years of correspondence and a visit with Blanche then attended Wayne College for a year and thereaf­ Schroer. ter, entered that select college of self-education, The diminutive bundle of energy invited me into limited to those who are so interested in so many her study/office/workroom; three walls lined with things they become fanatical readers. I believe too western history books (including a complete set of much formal education may stifle creativity and, the Expedition j ournals), shelves and tables laden having no professors to ape, I was forced to do w ith carefully labeled boxes of file folders (reference everything my way. I have been blessed-or cursed­ materials, letters and interview notes). and, on her with an intensely curious m ind-and curiosity is what desk, a typewriter. When I asked if she had been set me off on the Sacagawea search. researching Sacajawea for a long time, she quipped, Weisb ·od As members of the Lewis & Clark Trail "Is sixty years long enough? And-let's get one thing Heritage Foundation and readers of We Proceeded On straight. Her name is not Sacajawea but Sacagawea," know. the myth of Sacagawea's longevity and death giving the name a different pronunciation from the in l 884 at Fort Washakie was instigated by Grace one generally used. I realized, then, that this was Hebard of the University of Wyoming. But what, one remarkable lady. other than curiosity, set you off? iNt. sb1od Before I ask why your dedication, tell Schroer- I began my investigation into me about your background-your childhood and Sacagawea's death and burial site solely to prove education. allegations that Sacagawea, as an old woman, came Schroec I was born in 1 907 in eastern Iowa, the to the Shoshone Wind River Reservation and died second of six, four girls and two boys. Our father there. I soon found this could not possibly be true. was Dudley Moore, a horse-and-buggy doctor until My firs t interview was in 1929 when I talked to an 191 7 when he joined the Indian department. As an ancient Shoshone who had known Hebard and the

8 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 woman named Porivo whose grave was. I do remember the clerks through his diligent research into was identified as Sacagawea's . He talked about her giving sacks of the life of Baptiste, born to sa id, "Hebard eeshump," his word groceries to the testifiers. Sacagawea in 1805. Anderson has for liar. Hebard's book, Sacagawea, Weisbrod: Testifiers? been my mentor and we share a published in 1933, was responsible Schroer: Shoshones and descen­ driving force-to promote truth in for spreading the m yth-although dants of Porivo who would testify history-to show the difference Hebard herself said that Porivo was that the old woman Reverend between documented proof and never called Sacajawea or any Roberts buried in 1894 might have hearsay. The myth of Sacagawea's name close to it. There was no been Sacagawea. (Blanche paused, death and burial in Wyoming evidence that Porivo claimed to be then with a wry smile, continued.) stands out above other historical the heroine. I felt it was deplorable Those interviews were conducted blunders in early American history to falsely bestow on an admirable 45 years after the event-and who because of its long run. Based on woman of history the completely wouldn't want a famous heroine lack of knowledge, it continues for different personality and character for an ancestor? the same reason. Its promoters are of a less admirable woman. After Weisbrod: And the result was under no obligation to read the publication of the book and before the elaborate granite monument in more than one million words of all the facts re lated to Sacagawea the Fort Washakie Cemetery. How the original journals, the archival surfaced, those who did only did that come about? documents of the period or to superficial research might under­ Schroer: That monument was engage in intensive research. Yet standably advance Porivo as a erected by the Wyoming Chapter they do have a moral obligation to possible candidate for the heroine. of the DAR to replace the chipped refrain from stealing a celebrated But they were dishonest in fai ling stone marking the grave of the old woman's identity. to retract their claim w hen more Shoshone woman. Before the Weisbrod: Once a myth is information became available. dedication in 1963, I begged the implanted in public minds, it is Weisbrod: Your research, then, DAR to examine my copies of the difficult to root it out. and those of other scholars, rejects documents proving Sacagawea Schroer: Especially when it's Hebard's "claim to fame?" died in 1812. The daughters flatly perpetuated by more falsehoods. Schroer: Totally. The place of refused, hugging their myth and For example, in 1980, the Wyo­ Sacagawea's burial is not question­ deifying the wrong woman. During ming State journal stated blatently, able-nor the date of her death. the ceremony, 'O ne representative "Lewis and Clark came up the Irrefutable documents prove she said, ···whether Sacajawea is buried Yellowstone River in 1806. Came died at Fort Manuel Lisa, now in here or not, she was a Shoshone into W ind River Valley. They were South Dakota, when she was about Indian and was born in Wyoming. guided by Sacagawea." The truth 25 years old. Hebard's defenders She was picked up by Lewis and is: no such trip was mentioned in have failed, within the scope of Clark and dropped off here when the journals. Lewis wasn't w ith almost 200 years, to unearth one they returned." Even Wyoming Clark on the return trip via the single document suggesting that school children know that during Yellowstone, the Big Horn River Sacagawea lived after 1812. And a Sacagawea's time, late 1700 to was not navigable, the trip to Wind close friend of Hebard's wrote, .that early 1800, the home camps of the River Valley and back would have in 1936 as the author lay dying, Eastern Shoshones were in Mon­ been over 500 miles. Sacagawea she gasped, "If I live bit longer, I tana and Idaho and Fort Washakie could not have acted as guide-she may find some proof." did not exist until 65 years after had never been there. And that's Weisbrod: I'll not ask about the the return of the expedition. another myth that lives on: irrefutable documents and evi­ Weisbrod: I noted the monu­ Sacagawea as "guide" for the dence of Grace Hebard's duplicity, m ent is flanked by two other explorers. Interpreter, yes-guide, since you w ill cover these aspects markers, claimed as sons ·of no. in your book. Did you ever meet Sacagawea; Bazil died in I 886 and Weisbrod: As recently as 1994, Hebard? Baptiste Charbonneau, papoose of Travel Holiday ran an article, "The Schroer: Yes, I m et her during the Lewis & Clark Expedition, died Sacagawea Mystery-Where Did She one of her late visits to Fort in 1865. Vanish?" The author made no Washakie-it didn't seem important Schroer: That charade has been attempt to answer the question, to me at the time. Matt McGuire exploded by Irving W. Anderson, yet such intriguing titles do sell. I asked m e to type something for past president of the Lewis and can imagine that w ith all of your her but I can't be certain what it Clark. Trail Heritage Foundation. published articles denouncing the

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 9 fake historians and publicity Sacagawea's birth and death dates lated, persuaded me that the Wind seekers, you have not been popu­ as 1787/1788-1812.Andhow River claims were incongruous in lar in Wyoming. about the U.S. Postal Service time and place with expedition Schroer: Yes, there have been commemorative stamps, " Legends journals. Realizing the importance detractors. It has been said that the of the West"? Sacagawea-Bird of presenting the facts in book employees of the Lander Pioneer Woman, 1787-1 812. form, even though I must tread on Museum were told not to mention Schroer: (with a chuckle) The sacred myths, I've made radical my name when visitors asked who outlandish protests of the changes in my lifestyle so more could give them further informa­ Shoshone Cultural Center and thei r time can be devoted to serious tion about Sacagawea. Suggestions threat to sue the postal departmen t writing. After all, I am 90 and best have been made to the Shoshones carried no weight except to point get on with the proj ect. that they organize a rumble up their complete lack of knowl­ The twinkle in her eye and pert against me-even to the extent that edge about primary documents tilt of head belied her final state­ South Dakota was paying me to relative to the era. ment. With the stamina and push their state as Sacagawea's Weisbrod: You have also been intelligence of a far younger burial place. What rubbish! Marie, vindicated in the "Annals of Wyo­ woman, Blanche Schroer will it is important to m e that I do not ming." At the end of the State complete her project and I look come across as disliking the Historical Society's annual trek in forward to purchasing an Shoshones. I still have many 1996, the question was asked, "Is autographed fi rst edition copy. friends among them, yet I'm a bit Sacagawea buried in Fremont nervous about the possible reac­ C_ounty, Wyoming? The answer? A About the author ... tion of a few radicals. I have been resounding Nol" Foundation member Marie Webster vilified in print and personally, Schroer: That is rewarding-but, Weisbrod is a retired art ed. and especially when I fo restalled what is m ore important to me is history teacher and a free-lance w riter. government funds to fi nance a that quite a number of locals have pageant about Wyoming's approached me directly and by FOUNDATION AWARDS Sacagawea to be written and phone to say they know I am right directed by a New York playwright. about Sacagawea. This time, not NOMINATIONS DUE Since the National Register of one expressed an opposing view It is time to make nominations Historic Places recognized Fort as some had in the past. Wouldn't for foundation awards. These Manuel as the place Sacagawea you say we are gaining ground? include the Award of Meritorious died on December 26, 1812, I Weisbrod: You have asked me Achievement which is for outstand­ convinced him that accepting not to play up your publications ing contributions in bringing to this government funding would be too much since it was never your nation a greater awareness and fraudulent. Even so, this year the goal to become a professional appreciation of the Lewis and Clark July 4th parade featured a local writer. However, as a freelancer Expedition; the Distinguished Sacagawea and the announcer said myself, I'm most impressed by the Service Award which is for out­ she lived in Wyoming. Lander is a quantity and quality of your work . standing contributions toward jewel of a city placed in a setting of The articles I've read in history unique beauty. What a sham e, that j ournals are succinct and authen­ furthering the purpose and obj ec­ through one woman's irresponsible tic. Your critiques of books about tives of the Lewis and Clark Trail writing and a kindly m issionary's Sacagawea written by far less Heritage Foundation, Inc.; the decision to turn his wish into a knowledgeable authors hold no Appreciation Award given in belief over sixty years ago, Lander punches when you are confronted recognition for gracious support has gained a reputation for falsify­ by inaccurate statements. Irving (deed, word, or funds) given to the ing national history to stimulate Anderson wrote that you are foundation in its endeavor to the tourist trade. without peer in your research and preserve and perpetuate the lasting Weisbrod: In spite of local knowledge. So, Blanche, how goes historical worth of the 1804 -1806 condemnation, you have many your book? Lewis and Clark Expedition; and supporters nationwide; academic Schroer: Because of family the Youth Achievement Award historians and eminent scholars of obligations, my book has moved so which is in recognition of a person the Lewis & Clark Expedition. Your slowly, I refer to it as "The Turtle." or group of persons under the age prodigious efforts have brought Experienced writers have advised of 21 who have increased knowl­ results. Most governmental publi­ me to research less and write more edge of the Lewis and Clark Expe­ cations, biographical dictionaries but my countless interviews and dition through outstanding compo- and encyclopedias now list the reference papers I've accumu- (Continued on page 30)

10 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 :Jmpressions of a,n evening at the C\X.Jhite 9-louse and a,n :Jnvitation for the President

Editor's Note: Three people who House and the five U.S. congress­ by James M. Peterson, president attended the preview of Ken men from Oregon have jointly Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. Burns' documentary on the Lewis signed an invitation asking Mr. The weather was pleasant. We and Clark Expedition at the White Clinton to join us on July 4, 1998. were able to take a cab to within House jotted down their views on While in Washington I was able to about a block of the White House. the evening for WPO. Three meet with one of the president's We entered by the East Gate with a people, each with a different aides to discuss an information minimum of delay. The impression of the time spent in package pertaining to the private/ "gatekeepers" made a careful check Washington, D.C. public partnership efforts underway of our photo Ids and did scrutinize in Great Falls to build the Lewis and us-quickly and efficiently. by Dale Gorman, president We proceeded to the Entrance Lewis & Clark lnterpretive Center Fund, Inc. Clark Interpretive Center. We will continue to seek opportu­ Hall where the guests mingled for A big step in the planning for the nities to make the president aware 20-30 minutes. On display were grand opening of the Lewis and some artifacts dispatched to Presi­ Clark Interpretive Center in Great of our interest in having him as a guest speaker for the center's dedi­ dent Jefferson by Captains Lewis Falls took place November 1O when and Clark. (Some were the actual President Clinton was personally cation and grand opening, but will also pursue another highly visible articles, others representative of invited to be the keynote speaker. what were presented to the presi­ speaker. If by chance more than one Thanks to Ken Burns and Dayton dent.) My estimate is that some person accepts our invitation we will Duncan, I was included on the 150-200 people were there, most all make room for both on the pro­ invitees list for the presidential of whom were significantly in­ gram. We have also invited the am­ showing of "Lewis & Clark: The volved in helping make the docu­ bass·ad ~rs ' of England, France and journey of the Corps of Discovery" mentary, as I understand it. A small Spain to be our guests during the and invited to the White House. At "combo" played music of the grand opening. I met a number of the reception, following the video, I expedition's period. very supportive people who wished met Mr. Clinton and briefly visited A screening of the highlights of the Great Falls people success in about the plans underway for July the documentary was held in the their efforts with the president. 4, 1998 and let him know of our East Room, two screens having dream to get him to Great Falls. I During the evening at the White been placed strategically so viewing also left him a written invitation. House, the president spent nearly was good for all. The East Room is He showed me where he had ct}­ two hours in the State Dining Room where Captain Lewis lived while ready written the date down at the talking about Lewis and Clark to the serving as President Jefferson's sec­ invitation of Stephen Ambrose. guests. There were Lewis and Clark retary and where he and the presi­ Later, Dayton shared with me that displays, paintings and skins, etc. in dent examined Captain Clark's he and Ken had also asked the the Entrance Hall. We also went maps. Ken Burns served as master president to come to Great Falls on downstairs to a room where of ceremonies. President Clinton July 4. Jefferson had his collect!()n of books arrived shortly after we were seated Many people are working with us on the West. The East Room was and was warmly received. (Hilary to get President Clinton to Great where a two room lean-to was built was in Russia at this time.) He Falls. Retired Montana Congress­ for Meriwether Lewis to live in and spoke briefly from a low platform. man Pat Williams had the grand where, as Ken Burns pointed out, The screening proceeded promptly opening date placed on the "Meriwether Lewis got down on the and was obviously pleasing to the president's appointment calendar. floor with Thomas Jefferson and viewers. Thereafter, President Montana Senator Max Baucus hand­ spread out the maps from his jour­ Clinton stood and spoke briefly carried an invitation to the White ney." from his front-row position. He is

FEBRUARY I 998 W E PROCEEDED ON I I indeed an articulate and effective speaker. He then suggested we proceed to the State Dining Room where tables of excellent hors d'oeuvres were provided. The president joined the group here, mingling freely. I spoke with him briefly, identifying myself as president of the foundation and thanking him for the invitation and for his interest in Lewis and Clark and his support of the efforts to study and commemorate their journey. He was friendly and gra­ cious. During the same two hours or so spent in the dining room, I spoke with a variety of people ranging from Stephen Ambrose to the mu­ sician who wrote the background music (Ashokan Farewell) for Ken At the White House- David Borlaug.joundation president-elect; Cindy Orlando. Burns' "Civil War" documentary. I vice president. andjim Peterson, president. pose in the East Wing in front of the visited with the two photographers Red Room. I'd had with me on the river for nearly a week when they were doubly enjoyable for me since it what intimidated by it all. How­ filming in the Vermillion, South Da­ allowed me the opportunity to ever, it turned into one of the kota area. Dayton Duncan and I spend some quality time visiting most relaxing, enjoyable evenings visited a bit too. Quite a variety of Washington, D.C. for the first time. of my life. Th e pres ident was very people were there and an air of in­ I took advantage of the opportu­ relaxed, affable, and willing to formality prevailed. nity fairly well, hitting most of the visit with us when we approached Open to us w~re the Entrance major memorials; Smithsonian, him . Hall, the East Room, Cross Hall, Archives Building to see the Decla­ Walking from the East Room to the Red Room, and the State Din­ ration of Independence, etc. (and the West Room, and the spaces in ing Room. As one would expect, where, standing in line directly be­ between, all of us were struck by the decor was impressive. One of hind me, turned out to be friends being surrounded by history. The the security people told m e that it from Bismarck, the state chancel­ Moultons and I, for example, sat was unusual fo r the president to lor of higher education and his in the parlor and discussed affairs stay so long with a group or to wife). of state among some of the most mingle so freely. A real highlight was visiting both famous pieces of art known to In total, we were at the White the Vietnam and Korean War Me­ American citizens. House about four hours. Upon leav­ morials. In fact, Cindy Orlando and Getting to meet a few celebri­ ing we were given a CD and a copy I were still in town to take in the ties , and many other notables in of Duncan and Burns' book, Veterans Day program at The Wal l, attendance, was frosting on the "Lewis & Clark: The journey of the which was a very special event. It cake. Corps of Discovery." was the 15th anniversary of the At the end of the long evening I This was a m ost pleasant and dedication of the memorial. turned to Cindy, Jim Peterson and thoroughly enjoyable experience. Among other notables in atten­ Gerard Baker (superintendent, dance was singer Emmylou Harris, Little Bighorn National Battlefield) by David Borlaug, president-elect who performed. and said, "We really should do Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation, Inc. The event at the White House this more often. " Getting invited to the White was exhilarating. I think that all of With the bicentennial years ap­ House for this occasion was pretty us who were there, courtesy of Ken proaching, who knows? incredible itself, however, it was and Dayton, expected to be some- (White House continued on page 31)

12 W E PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 by Phil Scriver taking the wrong route. It has been spring a group of about 100 The prairies of central Montana said that the wrong decision here Blackfeet accompanied him to Fort held a key to the success of the would certainly have spelled failure Union where Kenneth McKenzie Corps of Discovery's journey to the for the Corps of Discovery, causing negotiated a trade agreement. In Pacific. Find the great falls of the them to abandon all efforts to the fall of 1831 James Kipp led a Missouri and find the best water reach the ocean and head back party of 25 men and a keelboat up route to the coast. These same downriver. the Missouri to the mouth of the prairies presented the captains Although this area was of no Marias and built a trading fort, Fort with their first great decision; special importance to the nomadic Piegan, near the Lewis and Clark which was the true Missouri? The tribes who wandered the area in camp of 1805. The fort was imme­ time the expedition spent travers­ the days before Lewis and Clark it diately a grand success. However ing from the mouth of the Marias has always been fo r the white men in early 1832 another branch of to the Gates of the Mountains was starting with the Corps of Discov­ Blackfeet, the Bloods, attacked the ery. A look at the Mo ntana map a unique chapter in the journals of fort and burned it to the ground. shows that bands of Indians may the corps. They saw unimaginable This was the first attempt by follow the Missouri River across abundance of game, added several Americans to establish a perma­ eastern Mo ntana from the new species to known science, nent presence in this part of Yellowstone to the middle of the successfully determined the Montana. However short lived it state, but the river makes a bend answer to their first great decision, was Fort Piegan did show that it north jdst beyond the Judith River. and firmly proved the devotion of could be done. They would probably have left the the men to the two captains. They Alexander Culbertson built Fort river there in favor of a shorter spent six weeks in the area; more Lewis a little farther upstream fro m overland route to the rich hunting than in any other area of their present day Fort Benton. Because grounds at the great fall s of the journey except for winter quarters. of its bad location he moved it Missouri. Thus they would bypass across the river the fo llowing Those attending the annual the mouth of the Marias. meeting will have the opportunity spring. Father Point recorded the The area was extremely impor­ date of the move in his personal to get a close look at much of the tant to the Corps of Discovery. journal as May 19, 184 7, however area covered by the expedition. Similarly, it soon became very Culbertson reported it as 1846. during the summer of 1805 as important to the fur traders who The fort was rebuilt using adobe they traversed this vast prairie and fo ll owed the expedition. and named Fort Benton during a portaged the falls. Tours will look at The American Fur Company ceremony on Christmas night many places described in the entered the race to develop the fur 1850. This fort immediately journals. business early on. As the fur became successful in addition to The Mouth of the Marn.:; frontier moved farther up the becoming permanent. Most of us are familiar with the Missouri the company determined There had been other small, decision made by Captains Lewis to establish their own treaty with temporary trading forts along the and Clark at the mouth of the the Blackfeet. By 1829 Jacob Missouri between the mouth of the Marias River. Their accurate deter­ Berger was in Blackfeet country Marias and Fort Lewis. They didn't mination of which river was near the site on the Two Medicine last long nor were they of much actually the Missouri enabled the River where Captain Lewis had his significance beyond maintaining a expedition to press on with the run in with the Blackfeet. Berger presence in the fur country. Over a journey to the Pacific without the and his small party wi ntered with span of 40 years the area, 11 miles costly retracing of steps caused by the Piegan Blackfeet. The following by modern road or 25 river miles,

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON I 3 went from obscurity to a perma­ focal point, threatening to drasti­ ambush was in retribution for an nent settlement deep in the un­ cally change the situation. earlier incident when trappers known territory Mr. Jefferson had Ophir attacked and killed several Bloods for stealing their horses. dared to purchase and explore. Although steamboats were Almost as soon as Fort Lewis The 'massacre' of the woodcut­ arriving at the Fort Benton levee, was built a new fur trade era was the 'season' was terribly short. The ters at Ophir included field man­ launched. The immense herds of design of the boats, in addition to ager Burris thus ending all dreams buffalo were soon being slaugh­ several rocky shoals in the river of a new town. The Indian scare tered for their hides. A wagon limited the water traffic to high spread rapidly with a great outcry road was carved acro ss the prairies water times, April through June. to punish the Indians and make from Fort Union in 1851 . The During the low water periods the area safe again. The territorial beaver era in central Montana gave freight was usually off-loaded at governor left Montana on business way to buffalo hides as road the mouth of the Marias then and the outcry was ignored. The building grew providing a means freighted overland to Fort Benton Marias' last attempt at fame died for transporting them back to "the for further delivery. and Fort Benton resumed its role States." These were soon replaced James Moore brought his boat of destination point for the upriver by steamboats up the Missouri upriver, but had to lay over the traffic. The cabins that had been from St. Louis to Fort Benton, winter of 1864 at the Marias. Here built and other cut logs were used which became the head of naviga­ he conceived the plan for a new by steamboats for firewood. tion on the river. town that would replace Fort Nothing remains of this once Supplies to outfit an empire Benton as the head of navigation. widely promoted attempt at city were moving up the Missouri on By February 1865 a group of building. steamboats then overland on the prominent miners had formed a Several other attempts were wagon roads to all parts of Mon­ stock company and received a made by others to divert the tana and southwestern Canada. legislative charter for the new town lucrative freighting business away Merchants in Fort Benton were of Ophir. The new company hired from Fort Benton, but for various handling hundreds of thousands of N.W. Burris as their field manager. reasons they all ended in failure. tons of goods and reaping the He laid out 400 lots for 300 cabins With the redesign of the steamboat financial rewards. Competition was and by late May several of the to enable it to navigate shallower keen and ri sks were high, but so cabins had already been built. But water Fort Benton flourished until was the profit. The mouth of the a band of Bloods attacked a wood­ the coming of the railroads. During Marias River once again becam e a cutting party and killed them. This the 'steamboat days' on the upper Missouri which lasted from 1859 to 1890, nearly 75 percent of all the freight to the northwest un­ loaded on the Fort Benton levee. When Jim Hill brought his railroad lines through the country he did what many others befo re him had tried to do and failed. River freight­ ing could not compete with the rai lroads so Fort Benton slipped out of prominence changing to an agricultural center for the area and county seat of Chouteau County; one of the nine counties created in the new territory. Fort Benton Fort Benton is a small town with a huge history. It is a must see for any traveler to central Montana who has an interest in history. A look at Fort Benton's history is a look at the history of a developing The old mouth of the Marias River meeting the Missouri River before the 1953 region of the continent. It has its flood changed its course. roots in Lew is and Clark but its

14 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 continued development shows the next steps in developing a territory that the expedition gave to the nation. Local advertising calls Fort Benton 'the birthplace of Montana' because it is the oldest continu­ ously inhabited town in the state. It traces its birth to 1846 when Fort Lewis was first built. That fort was named in honor of Captain Meriwether Lewis. Two years later it was moved to present day Fort Benton, but was not renamed until 1850. The new name was in honor of Senator Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri. Other names in the city's history read like a who's who of the fur trade; Chouteau, Baker, Conrad, Power. The first stop the traveler makes The Hornaday Buffalo Collection on loanfrom the Smithsonian can be found at is at a scenic overlook on the hill to the Agricultural Museum of the Northern Great Plains in Fort Benton. the east of town. Interpretive signage gives a snapshot look at quench their thirst and let 'er burn. Department of Interior also main­ Fort Benton and talks briefly about Some comments were made that it tains a visitor center fo r the Upper the Whoop Up Trail and the Mullan was strange how the building Missouri giving many details of the Road. Other stops include St. i caught fire, but decided some river. The 149 mile section of river Paul's Episcopal Church, which is records naturally had to be de­ between Fort Benton and the Fred on the national register of historic stroyed to keep certain fellers out Robinson Bridge is designated as a places. The church building was of a heap uf trouble." wild and scenic river. completed in 1879 making it the Also jnclucfed on the tour of Fort Every visitor needs to reserve oldest church in Fort Benton and Benton· is the Museum of the some time to wander through the the oldest Episcopal church in Upper Missouri with its many Old Fort Park, located on the site Montana. dioramas of steamboating and of the original fort. Some parts of Two blocks away is the early settlers. There is an early day the original adobe walls still exist. Chouteau County Courthouse. It homesteader cabin display as well Many interpretive signs are in was completed with a "laying the as an early day saloon. Another place to take the traveler back in last block" party on July 4, 1884 museum to see is the Agriculture time to the glory days when the making it the second oldest court­ Museum of the Northern Great fort was the hub of commerce. The house still in use in the state. Plains. Featured in this facility are fort is being rebuilt to look like it James Willard Schultz described several acres of ag equipment and would have in 1850. So far the the activity he observed when the an early day town. trade store and storehouse build­ Fort Benton fire department The featured attraction in the ing have been rebuilt. attempted to save the original museum is the Hornaday buffalo In 1965 Fort Benton was desig­ courthouse from being destroyed collection on loan from the nated a national historic landmark by fire in 1883. (lt burned to the Smithsonian. These six buffalo for its role in national expansion. ground and the current one was were collected in 1 886 _fro m the Historic sites dot the four block completed the following year.) last of the wild herds between the length of what was once the Fort "The department had just got Yellowstone and Missouri rivers; Benton levee. Take a leisurely stroll their new pumper, had practiced the same area as the last buffalo through this area stopping to read for endless hours, and the men hunt of the Blackfeet before they the interpretive signs along the were itching to put it to use. were forced onto the reservation. way. Everyone soon realized the fire The lead bull in the group was the was out of control in spite of model for several coins, the seal Three State Parks commands to pump faster. So they fo r the Department of Interior and A stop in Great Falls is a chance repaired to Keno Bill's saloon to the National Park Service. The (Parks continued on page I 9)

FEBRUARY 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 15 uW~TJr74~ ~ Photos by S~eve Lee and Dee Coons '$J

New Lewis and Clark signs (right) pointed the way to the annual meeting in the Columbia Gorge scenic area. The opening night recep­ tion at the Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center (left) intro­ duced us to area history.

"Lucy Marks" got us into the right humor at the opening session (left). Barb Kubik (right) told us about rock art, including pictographs, at Horse Thief Lake State Park.

16 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 9913 The Sidenquist and Olsen families from Washington represent four generations and descendants of Alexander Willard (above left). They are David (12) and Debbie Sidenquist (34) and Tom (60) and Allee Olsen (86). The Sozzi children from Idaho (above right) visited the skipper aboard the stern wheeler Columbia GCJrge.

Young and old (above, left) enjoyed the picnics at the meeting. A motley crew (right) traveled in the past on board the sternwheeler Columbia Gorge, and all saw the ancient rock paintings (left) such as Tsagaglalal at Horse Thief Lake State Park.

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON l 7 Author Dayton Duncan and film maker Ken Burns explained things to Dee Coons as Darold Jenkins looked on.

Steve Ambrose and Roy Toyama visited at a reception (above). Gary Lentz tended the Touchet Valley Fur Company display (below).

New foundation officers (above) are(/ to r) Cindy Orlando. vice president; Ludd Ti"ozpek, secretary,· Jerry Garret, treasurer; Dave Borlaug, president-elect: Jim Peterson, president.

Some days made your tongue hang out as this participant in the seminar "My Dog Seaman" demonstrates.

18 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 for three distinctly different oppor­ Park gets its name from the lime­ County Historical Museum, tunities to enjoy nature while at stone cliffs that squeeze Belt Creek Mehmke Steam Museum, and a the same time learn more about into a 1.5 mile narrow gorge with number of outdoor statues around local history. Three state parks are chutes and drops that resemble the town. Gibson Park houses a Statue located at or very near the city. sluice boxes used by early day of Liberty, John Mullan obelisk, and Each area was key to what we now miners. This is the third largest of the founder of Great Falls-Paris know as Great Falls. the state parks covering 1500 Gibson. Two statues of Charlie On the northeast edge of the acres and 14 miles long. Belt Creek Russell and a statue of Christopher city is Giant Springs State Park. runs the length of it. Columbus can be discovered The giant springs were 'discovered' The park is primitive and a elsewhere in the city. by Captain Clark during the 1805 naturalist's paradise. Almost any Fort Mountain portage around the falls. The plant that grows east of the Conti­ Called "Rattler Butte" by the springs are a certified site on the nental Divide can be found here. Blackfeet, then named "Fort Lewis and Clark National Historic Miners looking for gold, silver, lead Mountain" by Captain Lewis, this Trail. Also included in the park is and coal built a narrow gauge unique butte some 20 m il es the Roe River. At 210 feet long it is railroad through this area. Evi­ southwest of Great Falls has been in the Guinness Book of Records as dence of the railroad can be seen known as Square Butte for the last the world's shortest river. Heritage today. The original bed is the trail century_ This butte lies close by the State Park, a part of Giant Springs through the park. There are places Old North Trail, a migration route State Park, is the site for the where stone masons built walls of those early day travelers who encampment established during into the limestone cliffs with such the annual Lewis and Clark Festi­ precision that no mortar was crossed from Asia to Alaska and val. needed still stand today. points farther south during the Ice A 12 mile drive brings the visitor The ghost town Albright is in the Ages 11, 000 years ago_ Square to Ulm Pishkun State Park. This park. Two of the 30 foot smelter Butte was probably a navigational pishkun, the largest one in North smokestacks, several buildings and landmark in those early times_ America, had three distinct eras of foundations and some of the Captain Lewis recognized Fort impact on the Great Falls area. flumes buil t to bring water to run Mountain when he passed over the During the prehorse days several the sawmill all can be found at Continental Divide via Lewis and Indian tribes used it for their food Albright. Clark Pass on the expedition's gathering. Being unable to effec­ return from the Pacific in July of Great Falls ' tively kill the large beasts any 1806 while he was still 50 miles the Great Falls area is very rich other way, they simply drove them away. Even today many area in Lewis and Clark history because over the cliff's edge to their death. residents get the feeling of "being the expedition spent a month in Between 1889 and 1 905 the home" when they sight Square the area portaging around the falls. sandstone cliffs were quarried with Butte. Charlie Russell was very the rock being used in Great Falls Their history includes six certified sites on the Lewis and Clark fond of this butte and put it in at and Helena for building purposes. least 12 of his paintings __ Then during the 1930s and 1940s National Historic Trail. These sites are The Great Falls, Rainbow and Fort Mountain in geological the area was the site of commer­ terms is called a "laccolith_" It was cial bone mining. The bone that Crooked Falls Overlook, Sulphur Springs, Giant Springs, West Bank formed some 50 m illion years ago was mined was used for cattle when molten lava squirted be­ supplement and for fertilizer. Park (where the grizzly chased Captain Lewis into the river), and tween layers of softer sedimentary This park is currently the subject rock (this area was a large lake or of great excitement and activity. It the Explorers at the Portage statue sea originally). As the lava cooled it has grown in size from its original by Bob Scriver. swelled, pushing the rock and 1 70 acres to now be near 2840 The expedition had several earth hundreds of feet into the air. acres. When archaeological field campsites in the area in_c.luding Over millions of years the sedi­ work revealed the more extensive Upper and Lower Portage Camps size of the pishkun the acres were (Lower Portage Camp is the site of mentary rock eroded away leaving added to preserve the entire site an ongoing archaeological dig to the exposed lava_ The base or lava and to provide room for a visitors scientifically prove the expedition's rock is "shonkinite." It differs from center due for completion in 1999. exact location), Canoe Camp and basalt because it has potassium in The third state park is located Willow Run Camp on the portage. it. Radiating from the butte are 30 miles southeast in the foothills While in Great Falls be sure to long dikes of lava rock. These are of the Belt Mountains, a branch of see other attractions such as the the conduits the Java ran down to the Rockies. Sluice Boxes State CM. Russell Museum, Cascade (Fort Mountain continued on page 31)

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON t 9 oll on by Martin Plamandon, II

olumbia. • • A Postscript

n the author's last article in Anyone who has studied Lewis place called Canal Flats. It flows We Proceeded On (November and Clark knows that the Columbia northwest 1 90 miles picking up j 1996) he discussed the River is the Great River. In 1 792, water from the great ice fields oi' Columbia River Gorge. He Captain Robert Gray became the the Canadian Rockies. The river discussed how the outpourings of first non-Indian to realize he had passes through Mica Dam and turns lava upon the Columbia Plateau had found the river. Jefferson directed back on itself to the south/southeast contributed to the formation of its that the Corps of Volunteers for some 270 miles to the Canadian/ ramparts, how the great Missoula Northwest Discovery (Lewis and United States border, passing floods tore the hard basalt rock Clark Expedition) was to ascend the through Hugh Keenleyside Dam. from the walls of the gorge, how Missouri, cross whatever divide Fifty miles north of the border the the great runout slide had dammed there might be, and find the west­ Kootenai River enters the Colum­ the river and left in its passing the ward flowing waters that must bia. Cascades of the Columbia. The drain into the Columbia. The Kootenai is a considerable article discussed a few of the Looking at the Columbia River river running south when it passes special places within the gorge, the today it is hard for people to under­ Canal Flats on its way to Libby Dam lesser, yet unique side gorge of stand that it is a mere ghost of the in Montana. Like the Columbia the Onenta, and the sunken forest that river it once was. Statistically the Kootenai turns back on itself before intrigued Lewis and Clark. Those Columbia is an "also ran" among returning to Canada by way of the attending the 29th annual meeting the great rivers of the world yet it is Idaho panhandle. It crosses the had the privilege of spending one of the most powerful of rivers. border and runs northwest to its several days in one of the most Thirteen mighty dams harness the confluence with the Columbia. beautiful river gorges in the world. rapid fall of the Columbia from an At the border the Columbia is Through their memories of this elevation of 2,700 feet through its joined by the Pend Oreille (pro­ gorge will always run the quiet length of 1,214 miles. It is the third nounced pond'-o-ray). Though far Columbia River, more a lake today, longest river in North America. from the Lewis and Clark Trail, than the mighty, turbulent river of Together with the many dams on there is a link here. On July 3, years gone by. It is hard to look at the tributaries of this river the 1806, Lewis took his small group of this river and understand what we Columbia River system produces men up the Bitterroot River (they have done to it. The destruction of one-third of the hydropower of the had called it the Flathead, Sept. 9, the wildness of this great river has United States. It has given the 1805) a few miles to a crossing of given we who live in the Northwest Pacific Northwest a high standard the river it joined. Lewis named this a great bounty in our high standard of living and the jobs from many river Clarks Fork. His party pro­ of living. Yet we have paid an awful electric intensive industries. The ceeded to raft their equipment price for that bounty,. Many today dams have created an important across this rushing stream, soaking are saying that price was too high. inland waterway. But again, at what the time piece and scientific instru­ The official song of Washington price? ments in the process. The Clark state is "Roll on Columbia" written The Columbia River drains a Fork drains northwest around the by the late Woody Guthrie Sr. There compact block of a drainage basin north end of the Bitterroot Moun­ is a good reason for the selection of and seems intent on visiting nearly tains to Lake Pend Oreille which is this song. The Columbia drains every corner of that basin on its connected to the Columbia by the three-quarters of the state. It is the way to the sea. The headwaters of Pend Oreille River. It is the ancient heart and soul of the state of the Columbia River are in south­ Clark Fork which was dammed so Washington. eastern British Columbia near a many times by the south moving

20 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 glaciers of the great ice ages. Again and the Wenatchee Rivers. The on it all winter. No wonder they call and again water. accumulated over river continues its journey with this land the Horse Heaven Hills. hundreds of years, suddenly re­ hardly a notice. No longer confined As the river continues west it leased across the Columbia Plateau by the dams. the river runs free for passes from one reservoir to the to tear at the walls of the Columbia nearly 60 miles making a great next running through the McNary, River Gorge on its way to the sea. bend around the Hanford Atomic John Day, Dalles and Bonneville The Columbia continues south Energy Site collecting the Yakima Dams. Lewis and Clark reported from the international border River (Tapetett, October 1 7. 1 805) natives living all along the northern passing the drowned site of Kettle at the tri-cities of Hanford, banks of the river subsisting on Falls. Lewis speculated upon the Kennewick, and Pasco just above its roots and the abundant salmon. existence of such a falls in his meeting with the Snake River. They were the many bands of the journal entry for September 9, Here again we find the story of Upper Chinook and they controlled 1 805. " ... the stream appears Lewis and Clark. The Snake the river deciding who fi shed the navigable, but from the circum­ (Kimooenim to the Indians) is the turbulent waters, who could trade stance of their being no sammon in river Clark named for Lewis (August for the salmon, and who could pass it I believe that there must be a 21, 1805). The Snake River rises up or down the river. considerable fall in it below." above Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and There are many major rivers that The Columbia meets the Spo­ runs through southern Idaho to the drain into the Columbia from both kane River and turns west along the Oregon border where it enters Hells sides along this stretch. From the northern edge of the Columbia Canyon, headed north to Washing­ Oregon side come the Umatilla, the Plateau headed for Grand Coulee ton state and its confluence with John Day (River de Page, October Dam. It was here at the site of the the Columbia. The Snake is har­ 21, 1805). the Deschutes dam that the glaciers of the Ice Age nessed by several dams along the (Towarnahiooks. October 22, 1805), once forced the river south to cut way. the Hood River (River Labiche, the Grand Coulee from the hard The expedition reached this October 29, 1805), and the Sandy basalt and dive over the awesome confluence October 16, 1805, (Quicksand, November 3, 1805), falls (Dry Falls) to the south, once as where they were met by the chiefs the White Salmon (Canoe Creek, large as 40 Niagaras. and people of the Yakama Nation October 29, 1805), Little White Grand Coulee Dam is awesome (official tribal spelling). " ... after we Salmon, the Wind (New Timbered against an awesome landscape. It built our fin~s of what wood we River. later renamed Crusats River, provides electricity as well as coul<;i coJlect, & get from the October 30, 1805), and the irrigation water for the orchards Indians.· the chief brought down all Washougal (Seal River, November 3. and crop lands of central Washing­ his men singing and danceing as 1805). ton. they came, formed a ring and Much has been Jost along this The river continues west to Chief danced for some time around us .. . " stretch of the river since the con­ Joseph Dam. It is a lonely place The Columbia River continues struction of the large dams. Celilo where this dam is thrown across southeast a short distance picking Falls (October 22, 1805), the Short the mighty river. More a feeling up the waters of the Walla Walla Narrows (October 24, 1805), the than a sound, the mighty genera­ River before turning southwest to Long Narrows and the Big Eddy tors cause the very air to tremb.le enter the form idable ramparts of (October 25, 1805). The once and yet there is only the sound of the Wallula Gap. From here the mighty Cascades of the Columbia the restless wind playing in the river runs west and southwest 300 (October 30, 1805) are now curing dry grass on the hillsides. In miles to the city of Vancouver, drowned behind Bonneville Dam. this stretch the Sanpoil and Washington. It begins this run One can taste the majestic Okanogan Rivers find their way to through barren hills where little violence of this wild river from the the Columbia from the land of more than grass grows. This grass is writings of our explorers. " ... here I Chief Joseph's exile. special (Lewis and Clark journal beheld an emence body of water The river turns south along the entries April 25, 1806). " ... it compressd in a narrow chanel of western limit of the Columbia astonished me to see the order of about 200 yds in width, fomeing Basin. During the next 150 miles their horses at this season of the over rocks maney of which pre­ the river passes through the genera­ year when I knew that they had sented their tops above the wa- tors of the Wells, Rocky Reach, wintered on the drygrass of the ter... . " (Clark. Oct. 22, 1805) Rock Island. Wanapum, and Priest plains ... " The grass cures in its " .. .and confined the river in a Rapids Dams. Major tributaries standing position and provides narrow channel of about 45 yards include the Stehekin, the Entiat, nutrition for the animals that graze (Columbia continued on page 28)

FEBRUARY 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 21 U-P-D-A-T-E by Martin Erickson

Question: How many plants and animals did Lewis Duty Bound: Scouts Clean up Lewis and Clark and Clark name on their 1803-1806 trip west? Site Answer: At least 412. Make that name and rename. More than a dozen members of a Boy Scout troop Many already were identified in the local tongue. from Edwardsville, Illinois, along with six adult troop -L.M. Boyd's 7rivia column leaders battled mosquitoes, mud and rocky climbs to Great Falls (MT) 7ribune the shore of the Mississippi River to clean up the 'Lewis and Clark' Plays White House Lewis and Clark State Historic Site where the expedi­ President Clinton hosted a special event at the tion spent the winter of 1803-04. White House on the evening of November 1O for the Often referred to as Site # 1, it overlooks the showing of "Lewis & Clark: The journey of the Corps confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers and of Discovery." Ken Burns, the producer, narrated 55 marks the physical starting point for the Corps of minutes of highlights from the PBS series. Discovery's expedition to the Pacific Ocean and The reception for more than 190 invited guests back. included the musicians who played in the film, Dedicated in 1981 , the park has had its problems historian Stephen Ambrose, actors Adam Arkin (the over the years with floods and vandalism. But, voice of Meriwether Lewis), Sam Waterston (the Scoutmaster Bill Dust said his troop intended to voice of Thomas Jefferson) and Matthew Broderick change that. "We had another project lined up, but (Sgt. john Ordway). Foundation members in atten­ when we saw the article [in the St. Louis Post Dis­ dance included Jim Peterson (foundation president), patch] about the park being such a mess, everyone Dave Borlaug (president-elect), Cindy Orlando (vice said, 'Why not do it? ' I brought 60 trashbags, and I president), Barb and Harland Opdahl, Larry and hope to fill them all." Bonnie Cook and their 13-year-old daughter Kyle, Andrew Keller, 17, has been a scout since he was Moira Ambrose, Dayton and Dianne Duncan, Dr. six. He said scooping up fishing line, old boots, Edward Carter II (American Philosophical Society), cigarette butts, bottles and paper cups didn't bother Gary and Faye Moulton and Jim and jean Ronda. him at all. "This is pretty cool. I'm not doing this for Dale Gorman, president of Fund, Inc., the money any reason except to help the environment. I want raising board for the new Lewis & Clark Interpretive to do what I can ." Center, was also in attendance. -St. Louis (MO) Post Dispatch Clinton called the members of the expedition the Updating History: Lewis and Clark forbears of those who created the international Boat Motorized space station and scientists studying the mysteries Glen Bishop is on the water again. The St. Charles, of human genetics and researching global climate Missouri, builder of Lewis and Clark boats finished change. The president also noted the approaching his replica of one of the expedition's pirogues, put a millennium, saying the United States will welcome 50 horsepower motor on it and took it on its maiden the next century "by highlighting American creativ­ voyage from a dock on the Mississippi River north of ity and innovation and our insatiable desire to St. Charles to Frontier Park on the Missouri River in explore, as we are doing here tonight." St. Charles. On board, in addition to 12 people, was He also paid special homage to the cooperation Lady, Bishop's massive black dog, which served as a Burns' film portrayed. replica for Seaman, the expedition's Newfoundland . " Jn this town especially, we could all stand to "It's faster than the other one," Bishop said. The remember that we could all be a little more noble, a other one was a replica of Lewis and Clark's 55-foot little more full of energy, a little more charitable, a keelboat which was destroyed by an electrical fire at little more humble," he said. a warehouse in early 1997. The pirogue is a 39-foot, - Washington Post flat-bottomed, canoe-shaped boat made of Missouri Great Falls (MT) Tribune

22 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 white oak and Walnut. in the journals. He has gotten less than half way to Bishop is planning to rebuild the keelboat which his goal. will be used for the bicentennial of the expedition in He plans to turn over his collection of plant 2003-2006. specimens to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center -St. Louis Post Dispatch in Great Falls. At the interpretive center, landscaping BLM Considering Fort Benton Visitor Center will form a living li nk to the past. Native plant The Bureau of Land Management is weighing species will surround the center. Most of the plants plans for a new $ 1.8 million visitor center in Fort were grown from seed collected at the site by Benton. The center would be part of the agency's Phillips and others. efforts to work on projects related to the bicentennial "Genetically, some of these plants are the same of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Tentative plans ones Lewis a nd Clark saw when they came through call fo r a 7 ,500 square-foot center, substantially here," Phillips says. - Billings (MT) Gazette smaller than an $ 18 million, 36,000 square-foot center proposed by the agency about five years ago. Weber Has Ambitious Goals for - Great Falls (MT) Tribune New Interpretive Center I could put together a whole issue of WPO filled Jane Weber is balancing short-, mid- and long­ with nothing but newspaper and magazine articles term goals as director of the Lewis and Clark Inter­ about Ken Burns' documentary film on Lewis and pretive Center/foundation headquarters in Great Clark and "Undaunted Courage," the Steve Ambrose Falls, Mo ntana. These goals range from getting the book on Meriwether Lewis, but I don't think I will building up and running with a good staff to plan­ do that. I will mention that at the preview showing ni ng for a slam bang grand opening July 4th to of the Burns film, the Portage Route Chapter's offering a wide variety of programs to sustain Honor Guard netted about $8,000 after expenses to interest in the center for years to come. help cover costs of their annual festival. I imagine Al though Weber has learned a great deal about most of the communities along the trail that pre­ Lewis and Clark in the nine years she has been viewed the film probably made simitar amounts of working on the center, she insists she is "no scholar" money. One wonderful result of the ~tate of on the explorers. To make sure she gets the details Montana's $150,000 underwrite of the film is that right on the text, art and reproduced objects in the Ken Burns and Dayton Duncan have donated 300 exhibits she has sent review copies of the different copies of the documentary to Montana schools. · text and materials to experts around Montana and • • • !< the nation on different facets of Lewis and Clark and Tracking Historic Plants the Indian tribes and geography they encountered. Wayne Phillips has a unique way of introducing Besides making sure the building and exhibits are audiences to Me riwether Lewis the botanist. The long done right, Weber is dealing with many short-term time ecologist, range conservationist and forester administrative goals. with the U.S. Forest Service tells them about Lewis They include hiring a qualified staff, "creating a getting shot "in his backside" by one of his own men strong framework of relations" between the Forest while elk hunting on the return trip to St. Louis. Service and volunteer Lewis and Clark groups and "Lewis was shot in the loins and in so much pain completing a business plan. he couldn't sit down," Phillips says. The next day he Of most interest to the public may be the fees rejoined William Clark. Before turning over the charged. journal-writing duties to Clark for the rest of the trip, Traditionally, the Forest Service doesn't charge he wrote one last entry. It was a detailed two-page building entry fees, but the interpretive center and description of the pin cherry. some other new buildings got the okay to set trial Most people think of Lewis and Clark as great fees to help pay for maintenance and operations. explorers. Phillips, the president of the Montana .'.'We' re researchi ng what fees are charged in Native Plant Society, sees their expedition as a comparable public and private facilities," Weber voyage of botanical discovery. The expedition's says. "We want the fee to be well within what the journals mention 260 plants in 67 families, ranging market will bear." from lichens to the giganti c pines of the Pacific Long-term Weber hopes to make the interpretive Northwest. More than 70 of the plants were new to center self-sustaining. science at the ti me. "We want to generate enough visitors to continue Sporadically, for the last five years, Philli ps has to maintain the building and operate high quali ty been collecting all of the plant specimens mentioned interpretive programs w ithout subsidies," she says.

FEBRUARY I 998 W E PROCEEDED ON 23 "I'd like to see between 300,000 and 500,000 people No longer his own shame, the death of Lewis come every year. would be tacked onto the ever growing list of Weber admits that goal is ambitious. America's collective shames. "We will give people a reason to return-fresh and Also, Moehringer speculates, if Lewis had been new things to see and do," Weber promises. murdered then everyone with a sinister, unorthodox -Great Falls (M1J Tribu ne slant on the deaths of John F. Kennedy or Abraham Some Scholars, Descendants Push Lincoln or Vince Foster could gain new credibility. Murder Theory in Lewis' Death Finally, fo r the 160 Lewis descendants asking that The effort to get the National Park Service to allow the remains be exhumed, the dispute is about the opening of the grave of Meriwether Lewis has nothing less than peace of mind, about laying a heated up again as a group of scientists, scholars and cherished ancestor to rest. Lewis descendants met with NPS officials at the A sidebar to the article noted that the grave had southeast regional office of the Park Service on been dug up 150 years ago. A committee named by December 16. the Tennessee legislature wanted to make sure Lewis Calling it one of history's most tantal.izing riddles, was truly there in the grave at Grinder's Stand on the Los Angeles Times reporter J.R. Moehringer says the Natchez Trace and decided the only way to do so dispute over whether Lewis committed suicide or was to dig. was murdered pits two innate perceptions of the In their report, the committee concluded Lewis American hero (inevitably flawed or irreproachably probably "died by the hands of an assassin." They perfect?) and two deeply held views of America's left no explanation for this assertion, which mad­ infancy. dens and inspires James E. Starrs, forensic scientist If our first post-Revolutionary celebrity-a national at George Washington University and the leader of icon who seemed destined for the White House-fell the crusade to exhume Lewis. victim to an assassin, rather than depression, then "I want to give voice to Meriwether Lewis," Starrs says, "through his bones." The Park Service turned historians may have to recalibrate their original carbon dating of the loss of American innocence. down his request. -Great Falls (M1J Tribune

The Nez Perce Indians and the Opening of the expedition members called them, had lived in this Northwest, by Alvin M. j osephy, Jr., Houghton central Idaho, southeastern Wash ington and north­ Mifflin, New York, 1997, 736 pages, illustrations, eastern Oregon country for perhaps 10,000 years photos, maps, discussion notes, soft cover, $18.00 before Lewis and Clark arrived, but the peaceful val­ A Review by Martin Erickson leys and rugged mountain area they called home was to be theirs for less than 80 more years before The Lewis and Clark Expedition had just struggled they were driven out by the ever-increasing white across the rugged, snow-covered Bitterroot Moun­ men who came from the Eas t. tains on the journey westward in September 1805 Alvin Josephy, Jr. tells their story in his engrossing when William Clark and his hunters, who were in ad­ book which was fi rst published in hardcover in vance of the main body, met the Nez Perce Indians. I 965. Since that time, because of mounting publish­ On September 20, 1805, about three miles south of ing costs, that large original edition was permitted to the present town of Weippe, Idaho, Clark recorded go out of print. A severely abridged edition that the entrance of the first known white men, weary, compressed or eliminated portions of the original bedraggled, and starving, into the Nez Perces home­ text and dropped many of the historical footnotes as land. well as the illustrations was published. Also dropped The Chopunnish or Pierced Nosed Indians as the was a lengthy section of the discussion notes that

24 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 provided detailed information pertaining to explora­ story is the one that Josephy tells in great depth. If tions, the fur trade, the missionary period and other you have the slightest interest in history, this book is aspects of the early history of the American North­ for you. To me it read like a novel. It is a story of west and the Nez Perce Indians. Now, the complete courage and conscience that I couldn't put down. and original version is once again available. Alfred Josephy, Jr. is a pre-eminent authority and The history of the Nez Perces and their relation­ historian of the American West. He is the immediate ship with the white man is truly a case of truth is past president of the Western History Association, stranger than fiction. The period of 72 years be­ the founding chairman of the board of the tween the time Lewis and Clark first met them until Smithsonian Institute's Museum of the American In­ they were driven from their homeland is filled with dian, and the l 995 recipient of the Wallace Stegner greed, anger, misunderstandings, frustration, be­ Award. trayal, deceit and bloodshed on both the white and the Indian side. Courageous Colter and Companions, by Lillian Josephy, at the start of Chapter 2 in his book, "Fur Ruth Colter-Frick, self published, 1997, 660 pages, Trade Embroilments," sets the stage for the tragedy maps and documents, hard cover, $39.50 when he notes: "The three decades after the depar­ ture of Lewis and Clark from the Northwest were im­ A Review by Barb Kubik portant ones for the Nez Perces It was the period Courageous Colter and Companions is an obvious when the fur trade of the white men swirled around "labor of love" by Lillian Ruth Colter-Frick, John the tribe, when the Nez Perces became armed and Colter's great-great-great granddaughter. Colter-Frick enriched with manufactured goods, and when they began her work in l 954 when she wrote to the reached a new position of power and influence, Minnesota Historical Society seeking information while at the same time becoming enmeshed in about John Colter, a member of the Lewis and Clark forces that would ultimately crush them." Expedition. The forces were the fur traders, the missionaries, In the four decades between that first letter and . the miners, the traders, the military, the settlers, the Courageous Colter, Colter-Frick has traveled many government and the Nez Perces them~ elves. The miles along the Lewis and Clark National Historic missionaries from Jason Lee to Marcus Whitman and Trail and retraced Colter's steps along the eastern Henry Spaulding were the cause of a split in the slopes of the Rockies. She visited historical societies, tribes that made up the Nez Perces. The split be­ court houses and museums across the nation and tween the Christian Indians and the non-Christian talked with countless genealogists and descendants Indians has lasted to this day. The Whitman massa­ to learn all she can about this remarkable member cre was a direct result of the high-handed arrogance of the expedition. Her biography of john Colter and of the missionaries and their lack of understanding his companions is a reflection of the depth of her of the way of the Indian. hard work and her dedicated research. From that point on the handwriting was on the The strength of Colter-Frick's biography is in the wall for the Nez Perces. Their lives became filled reprinting of countless rare legal documents, court with constant pressure from the white man. There records and letters by, about and for John Colter. were broken treaties, broken promises and constant Researchers and expedition aficionados alike will pressure as they were squeezed into a smaller and appreciate the author's incl.usion of these transcribed smaller living area. The Nez Perce leaders wanted to records. The book's other strengths are the author's believe the white leaders' words, but their actions pride in her great-great-great grandfather and his undercut their words. In frustration and anger the accomplishments and her personalized approach to Nez Perces struck back and the whites retaliated. the story of John Colter and his "companions." Finally, the pressures were so great that they fled Colter-Frick's bibliography is extensive and de­ from their homeland and started a l 700-mile jour­ tailed, but her format is awkward to use. Her pub­ ney through Idaho, Wyoming and Montana with the lisher should have made sure the format for this army pursuing them. They defeated the army in important part of the book was one of the standard battle after battle until on a cold and gray October formats used by all scholarly works. Researchers will day in northcentral Montana when Chief Joseph, be pleased with the l , 120 endnotes found in Coura­ with a dignity none of the white pursuers were ca­ geous Colter and the 80-page index. pable of mustering said, "I will fight no more." Ruth Colter-Frick's biography, Courageous Colter The story of that running battle with the army is and Companions, fills in a gap in our shelf of biogra­ known to every school child but the story behind the phies of one of the expedition's most important

FEBRUARY 1998 WE PROCEEDED ON 25 Recreating the Missouri River A fitting Salute to Lewis and Clark

by Hugh Ambrose science, ranging from the least tern federal dams and channels were from the November 2, 1997 to the prairie dog. constructed to support commercial Great Falls Tribune Sadly, most of what Lewis and navigation and reduce flooding. When Lewis and Clark came up Clark saw, we cannot. Nearly 200 Though these public works projects the Missouri River in 1804, they years after their voyage of discov­ created much-needed jobs during bore witness to some of nature's ery, Lewis and Clark would hardly the depression, they also dramati­ greatest scenes. recognize the Missouri River. cally altered the nation's longest Immense herds of buffalo, elk Today, white pelicans are rarely river, eliminating the natural and antelope were seen "feeding seen on the lower Missouri, and meanders and oxbows that once in one common and boundless the least tern is considered endan­ supported one of the world's most pasture." Deer were as plentiful as gered by state and federal experts. bountiful natural resources. River "hogs about a farm" and, Clark The campsite where Lewis and engineers reduced the average wrote, left more tracks than chick­ Clark celebrated the first Indepen­ width of the river by two-thirds, ens in a barnyard. dence Day west of the Mississippi replacing the Big Muddy's mean­ On July 4, Lewis and Clark is now a cultivated field, farmed to dering, braided channels with a hosted the first celeb ration of the river's edge. shorter, "stabilized" navigation American independence west of As the nation prepares to cel­ canal. the Miss'issippi River among ebrate the 200th anniversary of Nearly all of the river's islands "copses of trees spreading their Lewis and Clark's voyage of discov­ and sandbars were lost. Even lofty branches" over pools, springs ery, we have a once-in-a-lifetime along the last wild remnants of the and brooks. "Groops of Shrubs opportunity to restore the Missouri Missouri in Montana, cottonwood covered with the most delicious River and revitalize the economic seedlings and other important froot is to be seen in every direc­ health of riverside communities. streamside habitats for wildlife are tion." While we cannot restore the river trampled by uncontrolled grazing. In August, Lewis described a Lewis and Clark knew, we can As these critical nurseries for blanket of white coming down the repair much of it. We can create a wildlife were lost, one-fifth of the Missouri-a flock of white pelicans Missouri River Lewis and Clark species native to the Missouri have 300 yards wide and seven miles would recognize. joined the growing ranks of endan­ long. His journals recorded dozens As cities and farms developed gered and threatened species. of species previously unknown to along the original highway west, (Recreating the Missouri continued on page 30)

COLTER Tetons and Yellowstone National pages 148-1 50, signed by Daniel Cont. from p. 25 Park remain unclear and confus­ Richardson, John Murrow and enlisted men, John Colter. The ing. It would be helpful to hear James Brown. biographical sketches about how a member of Colter's own Courageous Colter and Compan­ Colter's companions on the expe­ family has unraveled the tangled ions will add to any reader's dition and in the Missouri River fur trail. understanding of and appreciation trade are informative and reflective Colter-Frick includes a number of the role of the enlisted men in in their connection to Colter. of lengthy legal documents and the expedition. Colter's story is a If I were to fault the book, it court records filled with complex reflection of the story of many of would be in the lack of maps early t 9th-century legal phrases the men of the expedition-of their related to· Colter's travels through­ unfamiliar to many readers. Some land warrants, their marriages and out the West. The records of readers may wonder at the pur­ their lives after the Lewis and Clark Colter's travels in present-day pose of some of these documents, Expedition returned to St. Louis in northwestern Wyoming, the Grand such as the "bond" transcribed on 1806.

26 W E PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY I 998 Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center Reaches 20,000 Visitors at the End of November

The Lewis & Clark Interpretive October 20 to celebrate Fort located at the corner of Hwy. 83 and Center in Washburn, North Dakota Mandan's 25th year. They were also 200A. "It is exciting to be a North has exceeded 20,000 visitors since in Bismarck that evening for the Dakota tourist attraction and be opening the first of Jun e. The actual sneak preview and a book signing. open all year," Frieze exclaimed. count was 21,057 at the end of David Borlaug, chairman of the Currently on display in the November. Lewis & Clark Bicentennial Founda­ Bergquist Art Gallery of the center is "We have had visitors from all 50 tion, expects visitation to Lewis and a small art collection of the late states, 11 Canadian Provinces and Clark sites across the nation should Henry Lorentzen, a Washburn artist. 29 countries. It has been ·a very continue to grow as the bicentennial Also the children from Washburn exciting first season," said Kristie approaches in 2003. "With the Elementary did a project in art F r i e~e, director of the center. Foreign opening of the Lewis & Clark Center interpretation translating Clark's visitors came from all over, some as in Great Falls, Montana next sum­ journal entry for Christmas day far as China and Japan, most from mer, even more visitors will be I 804 into pictures. The younger Germany. passing through North Dakota children made historic ornaments The center had the pleasure of following the trail. " for the Christmas tree at the center. hosting a premier showing of "Lewis The Lewis & Clark Interpretive For more information contact & Clark, Corps of Discovery," a PBS Center is open daily 9-5 p.m., Director Kristie Frieze at the Lewis & special by director Ken Burn s. Burns featuring a gift shop with the largest Clark Interpretive Center, Box 607, and authors Stephen Ambrose and selection of Lewis & Clark books and Washburn, ND 58577, 701-462- Dayton Duncan were at the center gifts in the region. The center is 8535 .

North Dakota Lewis• and Clark Bicentennial Foundation One of the great m ilestones in help and co!ltributions the center LEVELS OF our nation's history played out in will continue tb educate and in­ ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP GIFTS North Dakota-the Lewis and Clark fo rm the public on the accomplish­ Benefactor ...... $1,000 or more Expedition of 1803-1 806. m ents of the Lewis and Clark The North Dakota Lewis & Clark Expedition. Your contributions w ill Growth ...... $500 or more Bicentennial Foundation, a help fund educators' guides, school Core ...... $250 or more 501 (x)(3) non-profit organization, tour programs. art exhibits and Sustaining ...... $100 or more was formed to guarantee that our continued capital improvements. Regular ...... $99 to $25 special place in history is remem­ Visitors w ill com e with curiosity bered and showcased for the world and questions... and carry away a The North Dakota Lewis & Clark to see. clearer, more complete under­ Foundation will keep track of all With that in m ind, the founda­ standing of the expedition. your gifts between now and the tion embarked on an ambitious Become a member of the foun­ year 2003. All donors whose gifts "charter m embership" cam pa ign dation. It is only with the help of total $2,003 in annual m ember­ to raise the beginning operational our m embership that we can con­ ship gifts will becom e Lewis and funding. Between June 1996 and tinue telling the story. We encour­ Clark Corps of Discovery mem­ July 1997, the foundation has age you to join our campaign today bers. raised $300,000. and support our vital work. You Please join us in an exciting To ensure our ability to show­ can play a critical role in our con­ partnership that promotes an ap­ case the incredible story of Lewis tinued success. Your contribution preciation for North Dakota's rich and Clark, the North Dakota Lewis can be made in one paym ent, history. & Clark Bicentennial Foundation is quarterly or semiannually. launching its first annual cam­ paign. We invite you to join in sup­ North Dakota Lewis & Clark Bicente nnial Foundation port of the Lewis and Clark Corps P.O. Box 607 • Highway 83 and 200A • Washburn, ND 59577 of Discovery Campaign. With your 701-462-8535

FEBRUARY 1998 W E PROCEEDED ON 27 ROLL ON COLUMBIA runs some 40 miles north collect­ up in the reservoirs feeding the Cont. from p. 21 ing the Lewis River (Cathlapotle, green algae and other microscopic November 5, 1805), named for a growth. The calm waters are this continued for about 1 /4 of a local pioneer and not our intrepid warmed by the sunshine and their mile & widened to about 200 explorer. Here it was that Clark passage through turbines. This yards, in those narrows the water recorded with some detail the only warmer water increases the growth was agitated in a most shocking known Chinook river village to of the green soup. manner boils swells & whorlpools, have survived abandonment, In his journal entry for October we passed with great risque ... " flooding, and the pursuit of pot 17, 1805, Clark, on the waters of (Clark, Oct 24, 1805) "The first hunters. The Columbia collects the the Columbia and headed north to pitch of this falls is 20 feet Cowlitz River (Cow e liskee, Clark, view the confluence of the Yakima perpendeculr, then passing thro' a November 6, 1805), water that has River, observed, "The Waters of narrow chanel for l mile to a rapid come from the glaciers on the this river is Clear, and a Salmon of about 8 feet fall below which the eastern slopes of Mt Rainier. It may be Seen at the deabth of 15 water has no perceptable fall but turns west, headed finally for the or 20 feet " The Columbia has verry rapid ... " (Clark, Oct 24, sea. The river is over a mile wide always been a rock cutting river. 1805) " ... here a tremendious black here and expands to 1 6 miles just Until the advent of agriculture it rock Presented itself high and short of the mouth, 50 miles away. did not carry a burden of silt like Steep appearing to choke up the As our explorers reached this point the Missouri or the Mississippi. Its river; nor could I See where the (Harrington Point) and looked west waters were crystal clear as Clark water passed further than the across this wide embayment of the attests. They were cold and swift current was drawn with great river, they saw what they had affording the Salmon an inviting velocity to the Lard Side of this come for. "Great joy in camp we and healthful passage to their rock at which place I heard a great are in view of the Ocian, ... " clean, gravel spawning beds in the roreing .... The whole of the Cur­ (November 8, 1805). many tributaries of the Columbia. rent of this great river must at all The Columbia River has an Today the river is warm, It is Stages pas thro' this narrow chanel average annual discharge of thick with green where it is not of 45 yards wide." (Clark, Oct 24, 180,000,000 acre feet. In a wet brown from the top soil of our 1805) " ... 3 miles thro a narrow year with heavy snowfall that land. It no longer churns and tears swift bad chanel from 50 to 100 figure can grow by four or five at the bed rock. It lies quietly in a yards wide, of swels whorls & bad fold. Enough water can be pumped long succession of manmade lakes places a verry bad place at 1 mile, from a river of that size to literally where there is so little current that a rock in the middle at 2 miles to a irrigate empires. Crops absorb the salmon young lose their way in rock, above a Deep bason .. . " much of the water and more still their journey downstream. Runoff (Clark, Oct 25, 1805). evaporates. However, large from logging and agriculture have This stretch of the river begins amounts of this water eventually buried the once pristine spawning as a dry land of grass and ends in run off the land and return to the beds in thick layers of mud and rich evergreen forests in the river. Despite recent improvements polluted ooze. Columbia River Gorge. For most of by our farmers, the runoff carries Once the river ran full of fish this run the river travels deep in top soil, insecticides and fertilizer three seasons of the year. The the earth between the high cliffs it residue into the river. Logging, great runs of salmon are now a has carved over time. The river development, runoff from streets thing of the past. The white water, leaves Bonneville Dam free again, and parking lots, sewage treatment some of the most spectacular in but as it passes Beacon Rock plants, storm drains, etc. all add to the world, is gone now. The Indian (Clark, October 31 , 1805), it begins the problem. If the Columbia were fishing grounds are gone, the to show the effect of the tides. The free to sluice these materials from Indian dispersed across the land. river leaves the gorge and crosses its bed, it might be a different In the Pacific Northwest our the Willamette Valley to where it is picture, but as it is the material rivers are full of dams. While there joined by the Willamette River stagnates behind the dams. The are those who want to build a dam near Vancouver, Washington. This sediments fall out, filling the to harness that last free section of . is the river (Multnomah) which reservoirs with polluted mud laden the Columbia River above the tri­ eluded Clark in 1805 (see Clark, with poisons and heavy metals. cities, there are many more who April 2, 1806). The chemicals and organic mate­ want to tear dams down. There is The Columbia now turns and rial that have run off the land build (Roll on Columbia continued on page 30)

28 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 North Dakota Benefactor Helps Lewis and Clark Center

Before the North Dakota Lewis & After the center opened, it was Now, throughout the year, Clark Interpretive Center opened discovered that one complete set visitors will find a portion of that its doors in Washburn, North of the 81 Bodmer "reprints" was collection on display. Since the Dakota this past summer. Alvera still available on the market. While gallery cannot accommodate all 81 Bergquist of Bismarck made the purchase price of nearly prints, they are being rotated, on a possible an art gallery in the $75,000 seemed daunting to the thematic basis. During the fall facility with a gift of $65,000. North Dakota Lewis and Clark season, a series of prints sketched The first showing in that gallery Bicentennial Foundation, which at Fort Union, and into Montana, was a set of prints from the Karl maintains the center, a quiet effort including the "white cliffs" area, Bodmer collection at the Joslyn Art was conducted to find a donor. was on display. Museum in Omaha. The pieces Not long into this process, Plans are to continue showing were all from sketches made at Alvera Bergquist stepped forward the prints, as well as making them Fort Clark, on the Missouri River, again, and w ith an additional cash available to other, more distant located just a few miles from the gift of $75,000, made possible this galleries, for display, according to center. The Bodmer art was of incredible addition to the center's the center's director, Kristie Frieze. particular interest to the center, permanent collection. The North "Long-term, our goal is to since the prints depicted the same Dakota facility is one of four enlarge the size of our gallery, so tribes that Lewis and Clark encoun­ galleries in the world to have that all of the prints can be dis­ tered during their winter at Fort purchased one of these complete played at one time. Until that Mandan. sets. (Benefactor continued on page 30)

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FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 29 RECREATING THE MISSOURI BENEFACTOR other groups coming to see the Cont.from p. 26 Cont.from p. 29 Bodmer Collection. Now retired, she spent her entire career teaching Many species have fallen to less happens, we wilt' show as many as elementary students, and has than 10 percent of their historic we can at a time, and make them maintained a lifelong interest in art­ population levels. Commercial available for others as well," says which all came together for her with fisheries which once supported Frieze. these gifts. hundreds of jobs have been elimi­ While the North Dakota Lewis & For more information on the nated and recreation-dependent Clark Interpretive Center has ben­ center in Washburn, contact Kristie businesses between Sioux City and efited greatly from Bergquist's Frieze, or for information on founda­ St. Louis struggle to survive. generosity, her commitment has not tion membership or donations, Sadly, riverside communities ended. In addition to the cash gifts, contact Development Director Dana have gotten little in return. Once she has ensured that the foundation Bischke, at P.O. Box 607, Washburn, expected to carry 20 million tons of is a significant recipient of her ND 58577; telephone 701-462-8535. cargo annually, barge traffic on the estate. Also, she has spent time Missouri peaked at 3 .3 million tons volunteering at the center, especially in 1977 and now carries 1.5 million working with school children and AWARDS tons per year. (By contrast, barge Cont.from p. 10 cargo on the Upper Mississippi River ROLL ON COLUMBIA increased from 27 million tons to 93 sition, art, drama, photography, site Cont. from p. 28 million tons during the same preservation and enhancement, or period). serious discussion of removing other significant contributions. Today, just one-tenth of one dams in the Olympic Peninsula of The Distinguished Service Award percent of the grain grown in Washington state and on the White may only be presented to a mem­ Missouri, Iowa, Kansas and Ne­ Salmon River in the Columbia River ber of the foundation. braska is shipped by Missouri River Gorge. A recent commission explor­ Nominations should include, in barge. Even though the river is ing how to preserve the salmon addition to names, sufficient managed primarily to support runs on the Snake River seriously background data to assist the navigation, businesses which recommended removal of the four Awards Committee in its selection depend upon recreation and tour­ dams on the lower Snake River. It is process and should be sent to: S.E. ism produce five times as many a strange phenomenon to hear Knapp. Chairman Awards Commit­ economic benefits for riverside people in the Northwest talk of tee, 1317 S. Black, Bozeman, MT communities and-unlike navigation­ tearing down such massive dams. 59715. Nominations for the Youth are expected to grow. Perhaps we have finally come to Achievement Award will subse­ In the next few years, millions of appreciate the river that Lewis and quently be forwarded to the chair­ people will retrace Lewis and Clark's Clark once traveled. man of the Young Adults Activity steps. Today, we can only imagine The Columbia River remains a Committee. All nominations must what Lewis and Clark saw. But, if we thing of majestic beauty along its be submitted by April 20, 1998. begin now, we can recreate a entire length, nowhere more so Missouri River that will attract than in its magnificent gorge recreation and tourism, revitalize through the Cascade Mountains. CLASSIFIED our urban riverfronts, and improve The river has afforded this author a LEWIS &. CLARK IN THE THREE the quality of life of riverside com­ lifetime of beautiful vistas and RIVERS VALLEYS, a compilation munities. To restore a handful of peaceful memories. It is a sorrow to of the known diaries of the places-with deer grazing on the reflect that the Columbia is a dying expedition and more. journey banks, ducks and geese raising their river. suffocating in the stranglehold young in backwaters, eddies and from Dearborn River to Lemhi of progress. That dying is a realiza­ Pass together with maps show­ twists and turns for canoeists-would tion that is only too clear when one be the finest possible tribute to the ing campsites and current walks along its banks or looks into locations. Donald F Nell and Dr. men of Lewis & Clark Expedition its waters. and a priceless gift for our children. john E. Taylor, co-authors. It is good to appreciate the $23.40 postpaid. Headwaters remaining beauty of this great river, Chapter, Lewis & Clark Trail Hugh Ambrose of Helena, is the but it is important to remember son of Lewis and Clark historian Heritage Foundation, Inc., Box that not so long ago she was a wild 577, Bozeman, MT 59715. Stephen Ambrose. river with a beauty unimaginable.

30 WE PROCEEDED ON FEBRUARY 1998 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE FORT MOUNTAIN interpretive signage are used to help Cont. from p. 3 Cont.from p. 19 take the visitor back in time to the days of our forefathers as they foundation's annual meeting to form the butte. The butte itself is carved a living out of this harsh, stay on for a day or two and enjoy nine hundred feet tall. unforgiving land. Risks were great, the variety of festival activities This butte is one of several of failure was frequent, but for those planned. Incidentally, the establish­ these laccoliths that can be found in who succeeded profits were high. ment and growth of the festival ex­ th is area. This area is one of only a emplifies the previously noted few places on earth this particular burgeoning growth of interest in geological formation can be found. Lewis & Clark. Shaw Butte (another nearby lacco­ WHITE HOUSE Finally, for those interested in an lith) which is actually larger than Cont.from p. 12 environmentally-oriented look at Square Butte has more sedimentary the Lewis & Clark Expedition, con­ coverings so it looks smaller. Shaw Cindy Orlando, foundation vice sider reading Daniel B. Botkin's Butte is still evolving geologically. president and superintendent of Fort Our Natural History. The Lessons of Several attempts were made Clatsop National Memorial, provided Lewis & Clark. (Perigee Books, The during the early part of the century the picture and this anecdote: Berley Publishing Group) I believe to either use the land on top of the On my way to the airport to go to you will find it of substantial inter­ butte or to use the rock that actually the nation's capitol l received a call est. make up the butte, but all efforts on my cell phone saying the White ended in failure or were vetoed by House had requested Fort Clatsop to area residents and land owners. provide two park rangers in buckskin Today it is used for very limited EDITOR'S DESK and to bring living history items for a cattle pasture. Because of its nearly Cont. from p. 3 display during the Ken Burns' vertical hard rock walls Fort Moun­ evening. The arrangement to get the clearly define the route followed by tain is all but inaccessible. It re­ two rangers and their living history those intrepid explorers. A family mains today almost exactly as the display together and on their way farm in the Bitterroot Valley of • Lewis and Clark Expedition saw it took only 24 hours. Park rangers western Montana is in the news 200 years ago. Curt Johnson and Matt Hensley were now as the site of a major Lewis SUMMARY the lucky ones who journeyed to and Clark site. More on this in The hi ~tory of Lewis and Clark Washington, D.C. May's WPO. and later development is preserved They went into the White House Bookings for float trips through in this section of the expedition's in mid-afternoon to set up their the White Cliffs area of north cen­ journey in several ways. Actual living history display and to gee tral Montana are rapidly filling. In a artifacts are on exhibit as well as changed into buckskins. It took them recent telephone conversation reconstruction of replicas. Art is three hours to get set up. They then guide Larry Cook noted that he is used to capture in bronze and on greeted guests and explained the booking for 1999. 1998 is all filled canvas how it used to be. Photogra­ living history items. up. phy of then and now records the When the reception was over and The off-the-beaten path North changes and illustrates how much everybody had gone from the White Dakota Lewis and Clark Interpre­ things have stayed the same. House the secret service agents tive Center has had over 21,000 The section of the river from the wanted to get the rangers and their visitors in the six months since it mouth of the Marias to the Gates of display packed up and out so they opened its doors. Sites all along the Mountains has another unique could relax. Curt and Matt hustled to the Lewis & Clark Trail report in­ feature that helps assure its place in take down the display but the secret creased traffic. history. Thirteen animals and one service guys wouldn't let them take Inquiries on foundation mem­ plant new to science were fi rst the time to change out of their bership and requests for informa­ identified by the expedition during buckskins. tion never cease coming in. It is their travels through this area. The Have you ever tried to gee a taxi really something else. l, for one, cutthroat trout, identified at the on Pennsylvania Avenue at 11 couldn't be more pleased. great falls of the Missouri is o'clock at night dressed in buck­ Montana's state fish while the skins? They finally did, but not western meadowlark, first seen before a surprised panhandler had to south of Great Falls, is the state bird . think twice about hitting them up for Guided tours, living history and a dollar or two.

FEBRUARY I 998 WE PROCEEDED ON 31 Capt. Lewis I Saturday June 8th 1805

I determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent and troubled stream but illy com~ port with the pure celestial virtues and amiable qualifica~ tions of that lovely fair one; but on the other han4 it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the North westwardly boundary of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting brances of the Missouri in a commercial p~int of view, I have but little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that produc~ tive country of valiia6le furs exclus~vely enjoyed at present by the subjects of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a rich fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of living anamals.:are seen, it's borders garnished with one contin~ ued garden of roses, while it's lofty and open forests, are the habitation of miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing traveler with their wild and simple, yet s[w]eet and cheerful! melody __.