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Spain - Ronda & the Strait of Gibraltar

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Spain - Ronda & the Strait of Gibraltar Spain - Ronda & The Strait of Gibraltar Naturetrek Tour Report 2 - 8 November 2017 Griffon Vulture Firecrest Monarch Red-billed Chough Report compiled by Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson Images courtesy of Caz Robertson & Simon Tonkins Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Spain - Ronda & The Strait of Gibraltar Tour participants: Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson (Naturetrek leaders and naturalists) with nine Naturetrek clients Summary This tour had two bases - a mountain hotel with outstanding food in the quirky and fabulous blue village of Jùzcar, and the tranquil eco-lodge of Huerta Grande in the village of Pelayo, near Tarifa. It yielded a great-quality bird list from mountain habitats, coastal and inland wetlands, salt pans, farmland and Cork Oak forest, as well as views of thousands of migrating and resident Griffon Vultures. Highlights included Ring Ouzel, a huge “chough- eration” of Red-billed Chough and the vortices of migrating Griffon Vultures crossing the Straits. The group also had encounters with many species, including Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Sparrow, Crag Martin, Hawfinch, Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Northern Bald Ibis, Audouin’s Gull, Western (Purple) Swamphen, huge flocks of White Storks, and an exciting Spanish rarity in the form of a Yellow-browed Warbler. Non-avian stars came in the form of Spanish Ibex sauntering along a cliff face, and encounters with Monarch Butterflies. Day 1 Thursday 2nd November The group arrived on their respective flights to Màlaga, and Simon and Niki were pleased to greet them at the airport. After handing out a light snack for the journey, we set off on the short drive up into the Serranìa de Ronda, to our first base at Hotel Bandolero - a characterful hotel with outstanding cuisine in the quirky, blue, mountain village of Jùzcar. En route we stopped for an afternoon-tea picnic in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, where the group were treated to amazing close-up views of around 30 wintering Black Redstarts, who obligingly posed for photos just metres from where we were eating. We also had our first glimpse of Griffon Vultures circling over nearby hills. The group went for a short stroll around the area, where Eurasian Jay, Woodlark, and wintering Eurasian Siskins were numerous, and we also encountered a Brambling – unusual for the area. A Ring Ouzel was heard but remained elusive, for now. We completed the brief journey to Jùzcar along scenic mountain roads, where we were surprised to see our first Spanish Ibex, an adult male with impressive horns, grazing at the roadside as we whizzed past! Our hosts David and Ivan settled us into our rooms and welcomed us to the Hotel Bandolero with a stunning three-course meal of tomato and blackberry salmorejo, spicy chicken and couscous, and a glazed chestnut crème. Day 2 Friday 3rd November Today was spent exploring the dramatic mountainside landscapes of the area, where star species abounded. Our first stop was at Los Riscos, an imposing limestone outcrop at 1,400 metres above sea level. After pausing on the way up through Olive groves and Cork Oak trees to admire Corn Buntings and a calling Iberian Green Woodpecker, we ensconced ourselves in a viewing area, high up in the crag. Here we enjoyed the aerial antics of Crag Martins as well as some great views of Wood and Thekla Lark. Cirl Buntings, Sardinian Warblers and © Naturetrek November 17 1 Spain - Ronda & The Strait of Gibraltar Tour Report Meadow Pipits called from the hillside scrub, and the group got a view of a Dartford Warbler. As the sun began to warm the rock face, Rock Sparrows began to flit across it, and several Blue Rock Thrush sang from the peaks and boulders of the crag. Soon we also spotted a distant Black Wheatear – a lifer for many of the group. An Alpine Accentor was heard briefly but proved elusive today. We were also treated to views of Rock Bunting before we travelled on. While Niki prepared a delicious open-air picnic for the group, featuring chef Ivan´s homemade chestnut bread, they had some time to wander around the riverbanks and crystal-blue streams near Cueva del Gato. This beauty spot forms the downstream end of a vast eight-kilometre cave system, of which the group would be birding both ends today. Among the wildlife seen were Common Kingfisher, Cetti´s Warbler, wintering Common Chiffchaffs and Eurasian Blackcaps, Grey and White Wagtails and many Crag Martins overhead, as well as a lovely selection of butterflies including Clouded Yellow, Brimstone (both possible here at the same time!), Bath White and Small Copper. We then made a brief stop for a reviving coffee at a charming local venta, before continuing on to the final stop of the day at Cueva del Hundidero. This second cave lies at the base of a spectacular mountain gorge and forms the northern end of the Hundidero/Gato cave system. From a viewpoint overlooking the Montejaque dam, we immediately saw the area´s resident Griffon Vultures circling overhead, and enjoyed great views of Red-billed Chough, both overhead and perched on the rocks in front of us. Scanning the hillsides, we were excited to spot several Spanish Ibex balanced precariously on a rocky pinnacle next to the dam, so we drove down into the gorge to get a closer look. From our new vantage point, we then spent a wonderful afternoon observing the canyon’s nature, as many species passed through, and eventually came in to roost among the crags and scrub. Northern Ravens, a Booted Eagle and a Peregrine Falcon soared overhead, amongst the ever-present Griffon Vultures. Flocks of Rock Doves frequented the valley, as an increasing number of Red-billed Choughs whirled calling over our heads in an enjoyable phenomenon which the group dubbed a “chough-eration”! A lone Short-toed Treecreeper fascinated us by foraging for spiders in a small cave in front of us. As well as superb views of Rock Sparrows, Rock Buntings, fighting Black Wheatears and singing Blue Rock Thush, we were also thrilled to catch up with an Alpine Accentor, which perched on a rock for long enough for the whole group to get great scope views. By now we had seen everything! We returned to the hotel as the sun was setting over the impressive scenery, to more fabulous food, including a sensational fennel and manchego risotto. Day 3 Saturday 4th November Today it was time to say goodbye to our lovely hosts David and Ivan, and travel coastwards to our second base in the Straits. 2 © Naturetrek November 17 Spain - Ronda & The Strait of Gibraltar Tour Report On the way, we spent a morning in the charming historic town of Ronda. Strolling through the attractive park, we found Hawfinch and wintering Common Chiffchaff in the trees. We wandered the clifftop promenades, with views over the spectacular El Tajo gorge, and enjoyed Red-billed Choughs playing and calling over the town. We took a morning coffee looking right down through the gorge for which the town is perhaps best known, and which separates the city’s circa-15th-Century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule. As we supped, we enjoyed a Peregrine Falcon molesting the gorge´s Feral Pigeon population, stooping down between the 18th- Century and Moorish bridges which span the vertiginous gorge. Descending towards the coast, we again stopped to enjoy our tasty picnic of local cheeses, olives and meats, salads, fruits (and cake!) at the Sierra de las Nieves site. As well as an even larger number of Black Redstarts, Woodlarks and Eurasian Siskins than before, the woodland choir was today joined by calling Common Firecrest, Dartford Warbler and a Ring Ouzel, so we set of into the wooded slopes in hot pursuit! After a little searching, we eventually got views of one of two calling Dartford Warblers. Walking back along the track to the van, we spied an Iberian Grey Shrike, showing beautifully from the top of a bush. It seems the skulking Ring Ouzel was jealous of our admiration of this smart bird, as it chose this moment to show itself, flying conspicuously into another berry bush right in front of the group and giving everybody a really good view! After a brief comfort and ice-cream stop to further break the journey, we arrived at the eco-lodge of Huerta Grande. We received the customary warm welcome from Katrin and the team, who provided the group with a welcome afternoon drink, as local resident species such as Common Firecrest, Crested Tit and Short-Toed Treecreeper called around us. Simon and Niki then helped the group move into their secluded lodgings, giving them plenty of time to freshen up and relax before dinner. Day 4 Sunday 5th November The day began with an exploration of local farmland habitat close to Huerta Grande. From a stopping point a short distance down a farm track, the group had superb views of both pillars of Hercules – the Rock of Gibraltar and the Jebel Mousa in Morocco - marking the mouth of the Mediterranean and the mythical gateway to the civilized world. Amongst the numerous Corn Buntings, Goldfinches, Meadow Pipits and White Wagtails, a group of Bramblings were feeding - an unusual sight in the Straits which only happens in irruption years. We continued with a visit to the inter-tidal habitat at Playa de los Lances. On the short stroll across pastureland to the viewing hide, we encountered Crested and Calandra Larks, wintering Skylarks, Zitting Cisticolas and Corn Buntings.
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