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Home , Arinagour, Blair Drummond, Eilean Donan, Hogmanay, Lauriston Castle, Lochboisdale

THE BEST OF 1

cotland delivers on every expectation of a deeply romantic land filled with misty lochs, fields of heather, Sand moody mountain ranges, while its thoroughly modern cities are welcoming cultural hubs. Whether you’re in the heart of at Hogmanay, alone in Abbey, or teeing off at Carnoustie, you’ll experience a nation that champions its history and believes in its future. Our picks of the best include many world-famous attractions as well as a few well-kept secrets.

THE CITIES Scotland’s cities are among the most dynamic in Europe. Edinburgh never fails to dazzle with its Old and New Towns, port of Leith, and some of the nation’s top cultural attractions. Equally vibrant claims the top art galleries, best nightlife, and unbeatable shop- ping. links Scotland’s high and low lands and is a magnet for history lovers. THE COUNTRYSIDE Strewn with royal palaces (Falkland in ), ruined castles (Caerlaverock in Dumfries and ), set- tlements ( in the Orkneys), and modern feats of engineering (Neptune’s Staircase near Fort William), the wilds of Scotland have something for everyone. Outdoor enthusiasts can choose from mountain ranges, river valleys, and rugged moorland where top golf courses, first- class fishing, and limitless hiking blend with tales of clan feuds and a rich variety of wildlife. THE COAST Mainland Scotland alone claims 6,158 miles of coast- line. Add on the shores of its many islands and it would take a lifetime to discover all the deserted beaches of the (, Harris, and South ), the sea lochs of the west coast (Linnhe, Sunart, and Etive), and craggy cliffs to the east (East Neuk). Unbeatable coastal walks lead from Eshaness in and excellent sea fishing lies off the shores COPYRIGHTEDof . MATERIAL EATING & DRINKING Scotland’s culinary scene has excelled in recent years with many establishments championing local and in-season produce. Fresh seafood is hauled ashore at Loch Fyne, melt-in-the- mouth lamb is reared in the Borders, and crumbling cheeses mature in dairies across the Highlands. Your local pint could be a dark ale from Traquair or a wheat beer from Glasgow’s West. And no visit is complete without a wee dram of the liquor named after the nation itself: Scotch.

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 3 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM 1 THE most unforgettable TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Edinburgh at Festival Time: Every August Edinburgh erupts into a spectacular celebration of culture, art, dance, politics, music, and street performance as a clutch of festivals—headed by the Edinburgh International Festival, the unstop- pable Fringe, and the heart-stirring Military Tattoo—sweep across every venue and public space in the city. See p. 102. W Haunting the Castles: Scotland is littered with ancient castles. Many—such as Urquhart (p. 326) on the banks of Loch Ness and the cliff-top Tantallon (p. 122)—stand in ruined splendor. Others such as Macbeth’s very own Cawdor are luxurious, legendary family homes. See p. 338 W Horseback Riding Through the Highlands: Travel the romantic way through fra- grant heather and over lichen-covered rocks on an equestrian excursion into the Highlands. One of Scotland’s biggest stables, the Riding Centre in Drumnadrochit (p. 325), stands close to the brooding northern shores of Loch Ness. The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences Travel Unforgettable Most The W Cruising the Caledonian Canal:

Connecting three of the Highlands’ longest lochs

(Ness, Lochy, and Oich), the Caledonian Canal once transported goods between Scotland’s east and west coasts. Today you can take in spectacular waterborne views of the Scottish countryside from the decks of the cabin cruisers that ply these calm waters. See p. 327. W Exploring the Heart of Neolithic : Discover some of Europe’s most mys- terious and best-preserved prehistoric sites on the western edges of mainland Orkney. The huge stone circle and imposing stand close to Maeshowe and the Neolithic village of Skara Brae. See p. 399. W Getting in Touch with Your Inner Viking: Join the thousand-strong horde of THE BEST OF SCOTLAND THE BEST “” who march through Lerwick, Shetland, every as part of , Europe’s largest fire festival. In a pagan-like desire to light up the seem- ingly endless winter night, they set fire to a replica longboat in the harbor. See p. 412. THE most unforgettable CITY EXPERIENCES W Walk the Royal Mile (Edinburgh): Stunning views, narrow closes, and dark wynds (alleys) spread out in all directions along this street, which forms the backbone of Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town. Take in the many free museums and some of Scotland’s most well-known attractions along the way. See p. 73. W National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh): Fresh faced from a major renovation, this transformed museum is crammed with national icons from the 12th-century to Dolly the sheep, the first mammal cloned from an adult cell. Follow the story of Scotland to the top floor and stunning city views. See p. 80. W Underground Edinburgh: Journey deep into Edinburgh’s dark side via a tour through its spooky underground vaults and long-buried city streets. Listen to tales

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 4 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM of grim goings-on as you travel through this subterranean realm, home to many of the city’s most notorious ghosts. See p. 76. 1 W The Burrell Collection (Glasgow): Sir William Burrell (1861–1958), a wealthy THE BEST OF SCOTLAND industrialist who devoted much of his life to accumulating art, is responsible for this fabulous collection. Set in parkland on Glasgow’s southside, it’s one of Scot- land’s most admired collections. See p. 175. W Cathedral of St. Kentigern (Glasgow): St. Kentigern’s is mainland Scotland’s only complete medieval cathedral. Striking contemporary stained glass adds a modern touch to the heritage of this ancient building, which was cleared of all but a few icons of idolatry in the 1600s. Leave time to lose yourself in the adjacent sprawling Necropolis cemetery. See p. 171. W Aberdeen Art Gallery: A treasure trove of art from across the globe, this presti- gious gallery showcases exhibits from the 1700s to the present, from Hogarth to

Reynolds to Picasso. It’s also the place to catch the most important temporary The Best Food & Drink Experiences exhibits in northeast Scotland. See p. 277. THE best FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCES W Tasting: Take a behind-the-scenes tour of one of Scotland’s many whisky distilleries where the angels are said to sneak a share from each cask. Or join the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for a day and sample as many as you please at their Vaults bar. See p. 105. W Edinburgh’s Fine Dining: Scotland’s capital claims five Michelin-starred chefs whose restaurants are among the best places to eat in the country. Three chefs, including top Scottish chef Martin Wishart, are based in Leith, while the sumptu- ous 21212 is the latest top-rated addition to Edinburgh’s restaurant scene. See p. 90. W Afternoon Tea: This famed meal is one of the most refined ways to while away an afternoon in Scotland. Recommended spots include Greywalls Hotel in East Lothian (p. 123) and Duisdale Hotel on the (p. 364). Alternatively make a day of it on an Afternoon Tea Tour (p. 35). W Tucking into the U.K.’s Best Fish & Chips (Anstruther): No place in the makes better fish and chips than the Anstruther Fish Bar & Restaurant. Enjoy a portion of the nation’s favorite dish along with views of fishing boats and the North Sea at this busy harborfront restaurant. See p. 246. W Real Ale and Traditional Music (Lerwick, Shetland): Enjoy a pint of real ale and a taste of traditional music in one of Lerwick’s friendly pubs. Many of Shetland’s excellent fiddle and accordion players start their careers in these laid-back harbor- side bars, where visitors can sample some of Scotland’s best local brews. See p. 414. W Scottish Smokehouses: Freshly caught seafood is transformed by Scotland’s tradi- tional smokehouses. The smoldering fires of the Marrbury Smokehouse on the banks of the Solway Firth add pungent flavors to hand-caught wild salmon, Kirk- cudbright scallops, and succulent mussels. See p. 153.

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 5 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM 1 THE best LOCAL EXPERIENCES W Six Nations Rugby Match (Edinburgh): Join the whole of Scotland in cheering its national rugby team on home ground at a Six Nations Championship match in Edinburgh’s . If you can’t snag a ticket, head to a local pub and watch the action unfold on a big screen. See p. 107. W An Afternoon in (Edinburgh): This old waterfront village is a locals’ favorite on sunny afternoons. Explore a tiny offshore island, the scant remains of a Roman fort, and Castle; and walk the banks of the River Almond, site of the first known human habitation in Scotland. See p. 86. W The Prince of Wales (Aberdeen): Featuring Aberdeen’s longest bar counter (with The Best Local Experiences Local Best The

an old spittoon trough) and a collection of whisky and brewing memorabilia on the

walls, this characterful establishment is a perennial favorite with locals and visitors alike. Given the quality of the beer and the hearty lunches, it’s no wonder. See p. 280. W A Highland Game: Held throughout the year, these family-friendly sporting days celebrate Scottish culture like no other event. Highlights include men in kilts toss- ing cabers (small tree trunks) and local Scottish dancing. The best known is Brae- mar’s late August Royal Highland Gathering, near Balmoral Castle. See p. 305. W Hootananny (): This city-center nightspot offers the remarkable combi- nation of traditional Scottish music, a Thai restaurant, and large screens for the latest music videos. Still, it’s undeniably popular, and never more so than on Fri- THE BEST OF SCOTLAND THE BEST days, when local singers and songwriters showcase their talents, or on Saturday afternoons when there’s a ceilidh (an evening of traditional music and dance). See p. 333. W A Boat Trip to (Shetland): Journey across the water to Foula, one of Britain’s most isolated and windswept islands. The handful of hardy inhabitants living on this wild but beautiful lump of rock off the west coast of Shetland still follow the old Julian calendar, celebrating Day on January 6. See p. 418. THE best ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES W Our Dynamic Earth (Edinburgh): Take your family on a trip through the physical landscapes of the Earth from the Big Bang, through erupting volcanoes to lush rain forests. Leave time for a planetarium show at Future Dome. See p. 85. W Glasgow Science Centre: Housed in a titanium clad pod-like building on the south bank of the , this leading family-focused attraction inspires and informs all ages on the concepts behind science and technology. Learning is fun and interactive and an adjacent IMAX cinema wows every time. See p. 174. W Blair Drummond Safari & Adventure Park (near Stirling): Visit the wild side of Scotland and get up close to animals from across the globe at this top family- friendly attraction. Admission includes a journey through wildlife reserves, a sea lion show, and a boat trip around chimp island. See p. 258. W Loch of Lowes Wildlife Reserve (Dunkeld): Children can view some of Scotland’s rarest birds at the hides perched on the shores of this small loch. Or watch a live

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 6 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM link of nesting ospreys that migrate from Africa to breed here every year. A visitor center provides interactive information and retail therapy. See p. 293. 1 W Boat Trips from Mull: Take your family on a sea safari and hop aboard one of the THE BEST OF SCOTLAND several boats that depart from Tobermory’s harbor for the surrounding waters. Tours range from two-hour jaunts to the local seal colony to all-day whale-watching adventures. See p. 371. W (Shetland): History is brought to fun-filled life at Old Scatness, near Sumburgh Head, Shetland. While archaeologists continue unearthing an Iron Age broch, Pictish homes, and Norse dwellings at this amazing site, children can dress up as Vikings and join in a variety of activities. See p. 416.

THE best OF CONTEMPORARY

SCOTLAND The Best Historic Experiences W The (Edinburgh): Love it or loath it, there’s no denying Scot- land’s extraordinary new parliament building embodies a thoroughly modern Scot- land. Spreading out below Salisbury Crags, this architectural masterpiece cost a cool £414 million and is best experienced via a free tour that includes the hallowed debating chamber. See p. 79. W Striding Arches (near Moniaive, Dumfries, and Galloway): Contemporary site- specific art and stunning Scottish countryside combine in this memorable piece by landscape artist Andy Goldsworthy. Walk the route between this collection of strik- ing arches that blaze a trail and make a bold artistic statement across Cairnhead. See p. 148. W Glasgow’s Theatre Scene: Be inspired by the best in European contemporary theatre, presented by cutting-edge Scottish artists at Glasgow’s hippest performing arts venues including the Tramway, the Arches, and the Tron. See p. 188. W The Falkirk Wheel: A triumph of ambitious Scottish engineering, this gleaming claw-like structure is the world’s first and only rotating boatlift. The Wheel effort- lessly swings boats the 35m (115 ft.) between the Union and Forth and Clyde canals using only a fraction of power and Archimedes’ Principle. See p. 120. W Ben Cruachan Power Station: A mountain towering above Loch Awe in harbors the world’s second-largest hydroelectric power station. Enormous turbines pump water from the loch to a reservoir high up above. You can take a guided tour and learn more in an exhibition center. See p. 229. W Aberdeen Arts Centre: On the outside it’s a traditional granite Victorian institu- tion, but inside it’s a lively arts complex offering a contemporary and extraordinarily broad program. Catch the latest plays, arthouse films, and exhibitions. If that’s not enough, enjoy a drink at the bright cafe-bar. See p. 279. THE best HISTORIC EXPERIENCES W The Borders’ Abbeys: Spend a day exploring gentle countryside and the four great ruined abbeys—Kelso, Dryburgh, Jedburgh, and Melrose—that cluster around the heart of the Scottish Borders. Brought to their knees by the English and the

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 7 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM , these former ecclesiastical powerhouses remain magnificent even in 1 ruins. See chapter 6. W Alloway, Birthplace of Burns: Visit the tiny cottage where Scotland’s much-loved national poet, Robert “Rabbie” Burns was born and the auld Brig o’ Doon immortal- ized in his epic poem Tam O’Shanter. A swish new museum and grand monument and gardens complete a Burns day out. See p. 200. W : One of the most formidable fortresses in the British Isles, Stirling Castle boasts views of the Wallace Monument and played a pivotal role in the battle for an independent Scotland. Its fully restored Renaissance palace is a must- see triumph of its era. See p. 256. W Innerpeffray Library (Crieff): One of Scotland’s hidden historical gems, this Geor- gian library attached to an old church is lined with the precious leather-bound volumes that once formed one of Scotland’s earliest book-lending services. Take a guided tour or don a pair of white gloves to leaf through these old tomes. See The Best of the Great Outdoors of the Great Best The

p. 291.

W Hugh Miller’s Cottage (Cromarty): This ancient thatched cottage is the former home of Cromarty’s most famous son, Hugh Miller. Born here in 1802 and largely self-taught, Miller became a pioneer in the field of geology and a celebrated man of letters. Inside his cottage are collections of personal belongings and geological specimens. See p. 342. W Maeshowe (the Orkney Islands): The enigmatic Maeshowe is one of Europe’s larg- est and best-preserved chambered cairns. Visit at sunset on the as the sun’s last rays shine down the narrow passageways, lighting the back wall of the 5,000-year-old chamber. See p. 399. THE BEST OF SCOTLAND THE BEST THE best OF THE GREAT OUTDOORS W Fishing the Salmon-Rich Tweed: The River Tweed is one of the world’s great salmon rivers and an angler’s paradise. These scenic waters, which strike a gentle course through the best of the Scottish Borders, are also famous for brown and sea trout as well as grayling. See p. 58. W Teeing off on the St. Andrews Links: Known as the “home of golf,” St. Andrews claims a collection of prime links courses, including the world-famous Old Course. Book a tee time well in advance of your trip to enjoy a round at this golf shrine, where the courses are shaped by nature and undiminished by time. See p. 248. W Cycling Through Glencoe: Site of a famous 1692 massacre, Glencoe is a brooding landscape of stark and grandiose mountain scenery. Many consider Glencoe to be at its most mystical when wet. It’s a dramatic ride and cyclists should come pre- pared for rain because around 250cm (100 in.) are recorded here every year. See p. 317. 3 W Climbing Ben Nevis: Britain’s highest mountain looms 3 ⁄4 miles southeast of Fort William. At 1,342m (4,403 ft.), the snow-capped granite mass dominates this entire region of Scotland and a trip to its summit can be done in a day. See p. 318. W Bird Watching on : Take your binoculars to the cliffs of Fair Isle, home to some of Europe’s largest colonies of seabirds, including guillemots, Arctic skuas,

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 8 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM and the comical puffin. More than 340 species have been recorded by the famous observatory at this important staging post for migrating birds. See p. 412. 1 W Walking Across : For some of the most dramatic and unusual coastal THE BEST OF SCOTLAND scenery in the British Isles, walk around the island of Papa Stour, Shetland. As well as jagged cliffs, stacks, and arches, you’ll see gloups (caves), geos (gulleys), and mysterious subterranean passages that cut right through the land. See chapter 13. THE best COUNTRYSIDE DRIVES W The A708 from Selkirk to Moffat: This 34-mile route between the Borders and

Dumfries and Galloway strikes a scenic course between two very different land-

scapes of southern Scotland. The road clings to river valley and loch side as it passes Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall and old Tibbie Shiels inn. See p. 145. The Best Castles & Palaces W The : Arran combines radically different climates and topographies in a relatively small space. Prehistoric monuments and sweeping vistas of await along the 56-mile circumnavigation of the island’s coastal road which, excluding stopover times, should take half a day to drive. See chapter 8. W The Lochs & Mountains South of Oban: Encounter Scotland’s longest freshwater loch (Awe), some of the country’s most historic buildings (Kilchurn and Carnas- serie castles), and one of its most notorious battlefields (the slopes of Ben Cruachan) on the 87-mile route that follows an excellent network of highways along the jagged coast. See chapter 8. W The Trossachs: Ruled for generations by the MacGregor clan, the Trossachs com- bine mist-shrouded lochs with legends of Rob Roy. Spend half a day following the A821 from Callander to Aberfoyle as it threads through dramatic terrain and include detours to and the Brig o’ Turk. See chapter 9. W The Isle of Skye: Follow the A87 west from the Kyle of Lochalsh as it skims past the brooding Cuillin Hills. From Portree loop 20 miles around the Trotternish Peninsula. Known for its odd rock formations, this coastal road travels through rocky seascapes before opening onto Loch Snizort. See chapter 12. W The Road to the Isles (the A830): Leading northwest from Fort William to Mal- laig and ferries to the islands, the A830 passes mountains and lochs plus a Victo- rian engineering triumph—Neptune’s Staircase, a network of eight locks that raise the Caledonian Canal 19m (62 ft.). See chapters 11 and 12. THE best CASTLES & PALACES W : One of the country’s most famous attractions, Edinburgh Castle embodies a proud, independent Scotland. The ancient volcanic plug it crowns has been occupied since at least 900 b.c. and over the past 3,000 years this historic site has witnessed some of the bloodiest events in Scottish history. See p. 73. W Palace of Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh): Sealing the foot of Edinburgh’s famous Royal Mile and facing Scotland’s new parliament building, the Palace of Holyrood- house is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Dripping with tales of murder,

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004_9781119992769-ch01.indd4_9781119992769-ch01.indd 9 111/21/111/21/11 9:069:06 PMPM pomp, fine art, and antique furniture, palaces don’t come much finer than this 1 distinguished royal stronghold. See p. 78. W Linlithgow Palace (West Lothian): Once one of the nation’s most glamorous royal residences, Linlithgow is today one of Scotland’s most poignant ruins. Mary Queen of Scots was born at this loch-side palace, which despite being roofless and badly damaged in places retains all its ability to impress. See p. 118. W Scone Palace (Scone): Ancient Scottish kings were crowned here upon the leg- endary Stone of Scone (now on display in Edinburgh Castle). The palace you see today was rebuilt in 1802 from ruins that incorporated a 1580 structure with stones laid during the dim early days of Scottish and Pictish union. See p. 288. W Glamis Castle (Glamis): The core of this Scottish Baronial masterpiece was built as a defense against rival clans during the 1400s. As conflicts eased, however, The Best Castles & Palaces Castles Best The Glamis evolved into a luxurious ancestral home. Haunted by Lady Glamis, who

was burned as a witch, the castle also featured in the ambitions of Macbeth. See p. 301. W Balmoral Castle (Ballater): Queen Victoria’s beloved Scottish residence remains a popular retreat for the British monarchy and draws hordes of visitors seeking a glimpse into royal life Highland style. Limited public access is allowed to the castle itself, but the glorious surrounding estate is worth a visit alone. See p. 303. THE BEST OF SCOTLAND THE BEST

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