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What’s On & Beyond Issue 11, Autumn 2014

xxxsxxxyy VINTAGE BOTTLE ROCKETS ODE TO ORANGE ROCK HOPPER PAR AVION contents Issue 11, Autumn 2014 THE 4 concept 18 what’s on 32 opinion Ode to Orange Gig guide & events Coming Home WHITE HOUSE 6 23 directions 33 little ones Warbirds to Watch For Wanaka & Hawea map Bottle Rockets 24 on the beat 8 par avion Wanaka band Rock Hopper 34 degustation Paris, On T’aime Whare Kea Chefs 26 on the scene 10 on location Romance in Wanaka 35 on the page Fixed Wings - local Book review: The business Twenty24 28 on track Mouseproof Kitchen Unspoked - young riders 12 fashion 36 on screen Flight 443 30 on foot Music movies to Pisa Range Walk mong out to Part 2 17 on/off What’s cool, 31 on the water 38 inspiration what’s not The Matukituki River Poetry by Ali Jacs

The contents of On Magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Printed on FSC paper by Craigs Ltd. To advertise with On Magazine contact us on: 022 0188 314 or (03) 443 4629, [email protected] www.onmag.co.nz. Follow us on Facebook & Twitter. COVER: Martin Cedes & Chevy Libaude @ Classic Flights, Wanaka. Image by Bridget Hall

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      concept

Orange is the colour of autumn. Right now every deciduous leaf in the region is moving through the orange spectrum, and watching the change is pretty uplifting. That’s because orange is a warm mellow glow that has its own specific wavelength. This means it produces the colour when light reflects a transparent surface. Orange is often interpreted as a colour of joy and enthusiasm. It’s also a spiritual colour. That’s why the Hare Krishnas wear saffron robes. Orange is the hue of happiness. It’s the colour of beginnings and endings: sunrises and sunsets. It’s the colour of tangy childhood tastebud teasers like Raro, Frujus and wedges of orange at half-time. The feelings that are experienced when the colour orange is observed are happiness, encouragement and freshness. Full of energy, this vibrant and friendly colour is said to increase the supply of oxygen to the brain, stimulating activity in it. So go cop a load of those fiery poplars by the lake. The view is bound to make you feel energised and inspired. That’s also the aim of our little zine. We hope you like this issue, in which we celebrate another year for Warbirds Over Wanaka and all the aircraft of Autumn. Welcome to Flight 443. Shanti, shanti, shanti. Peace. ANNABEL WILSON

MAGAZINE

Editor Deputy Editor Design Advertising Annabel Wilson Laura Williamson Bridget Hall Prairie Pritchett [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Contributing Writers Miek Deuninck Rebecca Williamson JOIN OUR ONLINE Ali Jacs COMMUNITY... Contributing Photographers For latest Wanaka Martin Cedes, Chris Riley events, gig alerts, Contributing Illustrator sport, people, places, India Hughes arts & culture Online www.onmag.co.nz On Magazine is supported by Twitter Micimage Design & Facebook Martin Cedes Photography

4 MAGAZINE. aviation GRUMMAN AVENGER TBM-3E This excellently-named bad boy first saw action at the Battle of Midway in the Pacific theatre in 1942. Torpedo bombers can attack their adversaries with both WARBIRDS TO WATCH FOR torpedos and bombs. Avengers were credited with 30 submarine kills in WWII, including the I-52 cargo ship, nicknamed LAURA WILLIAMSON singles out a few of the more badass aircraft coming our way Japan’s “Golden Submarine” because she for this year’s Warbirds Over Wanaka. was carrying a secret shipment of gold bound for Germany. Cool, huh? Pub trivia fact: Future American President George GRUMMAN AVENGER TBM-3E CURTISS P-40 KITTYHAWK YAKOVLEV YAK 3-M HW Bush was an Avenger pilot. The RNZAF flew 297 of these beauties in Apparently, when the Yak 3 was introduced the Pacific during WWII, and they were in 1944, it shocked the pants off German responsible for downing 99 enemy aircraft. fighter pilots, who had been used to IROQUOIS Math isn’t my strong suit, but by my dominating the badly-trained and poorly- The Iroquois, also known as the Huey, has calculations that’s an epic kill rate. When equipped Russians. The new Yaks were one been flying since 1956 and the RNZAF still the No 112 Squadron of the Royal Airforce of WWII’s smallest and lightest fighters, and uses them. Over the years it’s become used the P-40s in North Africa, they were their manoeuvrability was unmatched—as a downright iconic helicopter, and I get the first allied unit to paint the “Shark many as 15 enemy planes were shot down shivers every time I see one of these mo- Mouth” on the nose of their aircraft. It was for each Yak lost, earning the plane the fos fly. Remember the Ride of the Valkyries really scary. nickname “Dogfighter Supreme.” scene in Apocalypse Now? Those were Hueys. Awesome, obviously. YAKOVLEV YAK 3-M

A nod to Ben Thompson of www.badassoftheweek. com who we’ve completely ripped off for this story. Do check out his stuff. It’s brilliant.

CURTISS P-40 KITTYHAWK IROQUOIS 6 MAGAZINE. MAGAZINE. 7 par avion “If you escaped what I escaped, you’d be in Paris getting f***ed up too!” PARIS, ON T’AIME – Kanye West and Jay Z If you could fly away tomorrow, where would you go? It’s a bit of a cliché, but for me, the answer is always the same: Paris. It’s got everything a city should have, great food (oh God, the food), music, art, multiculturalism, girls in frocks on bikes, loudspeakers is so high, you can hear most wine, literature, history, parks (big parks, with sculptures), gothic architecture, of it from the riverbank (though sometimes gypsies on the Metro, a bloody big river running right down the middle, and did it’s in German). A stroll along the river’s I mention the food? In fact, it’s so excellent it can be a bit overwhelming. And Left Bank takes you past the Eiffel Tower, Napolean’s tomb at the Les Invalides, the expensive. Not to worry though, years of working in print media have not only A gargoyle on Notre-Dame Cathedral taught us the difference between an apostrophe and a gerund, we’ve learned how Pont des Arts “Love Lock” bridge where you queues in the high season are very long, but to have fun on the cheap. Here’s a few ways to do it in Paris. can leave a padlock for your sweetie, used who cares, because you don’t need to go book stalls selling French vintage Asterix inside to see the coolest part: the gargoyles. comics, and the bohemian Latin Quarter, RIDE A VELIB BIKE Gargoyles rule. once home to Voltaire, Ernest Hemingway, The Parisian bike share programme is George Orwell and science hero Marie Curie. the third-largest in the world, with about WALK ALONG THE LEFT BANK 14000 bicycles in circulation. It works like You can take a tour of the Seine by boat, this: you saunter up to a Vélib station, pay but this costs a bit, and you can view the less than two Euros and spend the rest of same sites on foot. Even better, the volume the day pedalling around Paris like Chris of the live commentary on the tour boat Froome doing Tour de France victory laps. The trick is to swap bikes every half hour - rides of less than 30 minutes don’t incur additional charges. The glitches (broken spokes, dodgy brakes and the fact that the residential neighbourhoods have an early morning exothermic relationship with Vélib Vélib Bikes are so chic bikes; they all disappear into the central city by 8am) make it all the more enjoyable. Love Lock bridge “A walk about Paris will provide lessons in VISIT CIMETIERE PERE LACHAISE history, beauty, and in the point of life” EAT Worth a look for its creepy tombs and – Thomas Jefferson Eating out in Paris is expensive, but no art deco monuments, this is where Jim matter. This is France, where even the Morrison is buried (expect to see at least crappy food tastes ridiculously good. one inebriated fan swaying next to the grave, SEE NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Load up on the filled baguettes at the pouring his last beer reverentially over the A fine example of French Gothic architecture, neighbourhood patisseries—they’re huge deceased), not to mention Edith Piaf, Oscar Notre-Dame Cathedral is a masterpiece, and will last you two meals--and hit the Wilde and the painter Modigliani, who’s magnificent in both its scale (the interior is supermarket. The first time I saw the partner is buried with him. She threw herself 130 metres long and 35 metres high) and cheese aisle at a Parisian Monoprix I cried, out of a five-story window not long after he its detail. The architects purposely worked overwhelmed as I was by the bounty spread died, which is really tragic, but just the sort asymmetrical imperfections into the design, before me. Fromage. Paris. Ah oui. of thing you go to a cemetery to think about. such as differently-shaped entrances. The Stroll the left bank past the Eiffel Tower LAURA WILLIAMSON 8 MAGAZINE. MAGAZINE. 9 on location FIXED WINGS LAURA WILLIAMSON talks sheet metal and slip rollers with Twenty24 Ltd.

We love meeting locals who make a living following their passion. For Trish Wrigley and Callum Smith of Twenty24, this involves working on very old aeroplanes, not to mention owning a hangar! I had a word with Callum to find out more about what they do, and why they do it. Can you explain a bit about your work? I’m a licensed aircraft engineer and director of Twenty24. We repair, restore and maintain aircraft. We specialise in vintage and restoration, but we have spread our wings as far as microlites, racecar parts and shop fittings; we have specialised tools to shape sheet metal the old school way and the result is quite beautiful and classic. Where does the name Twenty24 come from? I can still taste the castor oil, which gets fired 2024 is a grade of aircraft aluminium out of the engine all over the gunner. commonly used in aircraft construction. Will you have a role at Warbirds Over Did you come to Wanaka for the vintage Wanaka? aircraft? I’m on the airshow committee and I organise It’s one of the spots to be if you're into the aircraft on the flightline, making sure historic aircraft. We arrived nine years ago they have everything they need. Twenty24 when I had an opportunity to move here and also provide maintenance support to a large maintain a couple of P40 Kittyhawks and portion of the warbirds at the show. other warbirds. You have two young children, and we What's been you're favourite job so far? reckon an airplane hangar is a dream I worked for a company that restored several place to hang out if you're a little nipper. P-40 Kittyhawks, so I have a soft spot for Do your kids come to your “office”? Kittyhawks, but the Russian LA9 fighter The kids are often at work and love messing was incredible, and finishing a 1936 Beech around flying the odd wrecked plane we Staggerwing is right up there - it oozes class have in the hanger. with its classic lines, leather interior and What on earth are these: English wheel, walnut trim. wheeling jenny, slip rollers, planishing Groovy! Do you get to fly in some pretty hammer? cool planes? These are all sheet metal forming tools A couple of weeks ago I flew in an RAF we use to make parts; most have been BE.2F (a WWI biplane) from Peter Jackson's superseded by big computerised machines collection. It was built 100 years ago, but has these days, but for one-off hand made parts the original engine and lots of original parts. there is still nothing better. 10 MAGAZINE. fashion

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Martin wears: Rusty Camino shirt, Rusty Hooked Out beach pant, Modern Amusement T. Chev wears: Crayon T, Rusty Cadet short, Katherine Wilson Jimmy Martin wears: Huffer Spezial T, Wrangler Stomper moleskin, boot. Le Specs sunnies. RM Williams boots, helmet & jacket from Classic Flights. Deerskin hat & driving 12 MAGAZINE. gloves from Robert MAGAZINE. Wilson. 13 Chev wears: Federation Believe for your graphic design project dress, Chaos & call: 021 177 5922 email: [email protected] Harmony shoes. Martin wears: Bauhaus Camo jacket, Le Specs sunnies.14 MAGAZINE.

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Cardrona2 On Mag (half pg) PROOF.indd 1 8/11/13 10:49 AM • R&R Sport 49km Team Adventure Run, what’s on start at Fern Burn track • National Finals Rodeo (March 8-9), Albert For regular gig and event updates or to submit your event: Town Reserve check onmag.co.nz or follow us on Twitter (@onmagwanaka) • Craig Adams and the Rustlers live, Bullock Bar SUNDAY 9 MARCH • Jenn Shelton and No Reason live, Bullock Bar SATURDAY 15 MARCH • Yardmen live, Bullock Bar SUNDAY 16 MARCH • Tin Flowers live, The Luggate Hotel TUESDAY 18 MARCH • In Flagrante contemporary cabaret, Lake Wanaka Centre SATURDAY 22 MARCH On Magazine parties - every issue Multi-instrumentalist Adam Page • Northburn 100 ultra-marathon, Northburn • Live music at The Creek from 7pm, every Station, Cromwell MARCH Friday • Buzzy Bees live, Bullock Bar • Motatapu R&R Sport Multisport, start MONDAY 24 MARCH SATURDAY 1 MARCH Matukituki River • Otago Anniversary Day • On Magazine Jive ON Autumn release • Craig Adams and the Rustlers live, Bullock party, Barluga, Post Office Lane Bar THURSDAY 27 MARCH • Adam Page live, Masonic Lodge • Purple Cake Day! • Sir Peter Blake Memorial Trophy - Round • Rock Hopper live, Bullock Bar Ruby Island Race, Wanaka Yacht Club SATURDAY 8 MARCH SUNDAY 2 MARCH • Motatapu Icebreaker Off-Road Marathon, SATURDAY 29 MARCH • Cardrona Village Market, every Sunday, Glendhu Bay • Mt Outdoor Southern Lakes Half Marathon Cardrona Valley • Motatapu Speight’s Summit 47km High and 10k, Pembroke Park • Wanaka Sunday Craft Market, every Country Mountain Bike, Glendhu Bay • Hard Yards live, Bullock Bar Sunday at Market Corner, Pembroke Park • XTERRA Motatapu UDC Finance Triathlon, • Sunday Sessions in The Snug, every Glendhu Bay Sunday, Ruby’s Cinema TUESDAY 4 MARCH • Group mountain bike ride, 6pm every Tuesday, RSVP 443 7882, Racers Edge Bike THURSDAY 6 MARCH • Wanaka Farmers’ Market, every Thursday at Market Corner, Pembroke Park FRIDAY 7 MARCH • Upper Clutha A & P show, Wanaka Showgrounds (March 7-8) Check out Craig Adams at the Bully Visit the Sunday Market at Cardrona Village 18 MAGAZINE. Chris Riley, Eco Wanaka The Clutha River in Autumn Russian Yak 3 at Warbirds Over Wanaka

• Sunday Sessions in The Snug, every Craig Adams APRIL Sunday, Ruby’s Cinema • Buzzy Bees live, Bullock Bar TUESDAY 1 APRIL • Group mountain bike ride, 6pm every SATURDAY 12 APRIL Tuesday, RSVP 443 7882, Racers Edge Bike • Yardmen live, Bullock Bar THURSDAY 3 APRIL SUNDAY 13 APRIL • Wanaka Farmers’ Market, every Thursday • Giant 2W Gravity Enduro, Cardrona Valley at Market Corner, Pembroke Park FRIDAY 18 APRIL FRIDAY 4 APRIL • Warbirds Over Wanaka International • Live music at The Creek from 7pm, every Airshow (April 18-20), Wanaka Airport Friday • Wanaka Arts Society Easter Exhibition (April 18-21) SUNDAY 6 APRIL • Cardrona Village Market, every Sunday, SATURDAY 26 APRIL Cardrona Valley • Contact Epic, NZ’s Ultimate MTB • Wanaka Sunday Craft Market, every Challenge, Lake Hawea Sunday at Market Corner, Pembroke Park • Hard Yards live, Bullock Bar MONDAY 28 APRIL SUNDAY 1 JUNE • Wanaka Autumn Arts School (April 28-May • Sunday Sessions in The Snug, every 12 2), Mount Aspiring College directions Sunday, Ruby’s Cinema THURSDAY 5 JUNE MAY • Wanaka Farmers’ Market, every Thursday, Spencer House Mall THURSDAY 1 MAY Wharf • Wanaka Farmers’ Market, every Thursday, FRIDAY 20 JUNE Spencer House Mall • Cardrona Alpine Resort opening day • American Express Queenstown Winter 11 FRIDAY 2 MAY Festival (June 20-29), Queenstown TO TREBLE CONE • Live music at The Creek from 7pm, every Friday WEDNESDAY 25 JUNE • Rock Apocalypse, MAC school musical, 5 SATURDAY 3 MAY Lake Wanaka Centre • Yardmen live, Bullock Bar 1 THURSDAY 26 JUNE SUNDAY 4 MAY • Treble Cone opening day • Billy Connolly High Horse Tour, 9 Queenstown Events Centre • Sunday Sessions in The Snug, every Sunday, Ruby’s Cinema 7 SATURDAY 10 MAY 2 6 • Buzzy Bees live, Bullock Bar SATURDAY 17 MAY • Hard Yards live, Bullock Bar SATURDAY 24 MAY 3 4 8 • Buzzy Bees live, Bullock Bar 10 SATURDAY 31 MAY • Yardmen live, Bullock Bar Photo: Bridget Hall Treble Cone from Dublin Bay Come and try our Irresistible Flavours like you never tasted! 1 Amigos: Mexican Restaurant 7 Shinaburo: Korean Restaurant 2 Barluga: Bar 8 Skydive Wanaka: Wanaka Airport 3 Cardrona Hotel: Bar/Restaurant/Accom 9 The White House: Café & Bar Open lunch and dinner 4 Emma for Beauty: Beauty Therapy 10 Warbirds Over Wanaka: Wanaka Airport 11am~2:30pm 34 Ardmore St. Wanaka 5 Relishes: Café/Restaurant 11 Wanaka Kayaks: Kayak & SUP Rental 5:30pm~9pm Ph (03) 443 1777 6 Sasanoki: Japanese Cuisine 12 Island View Place: Luxury Accommodation

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on the beat

with the ROCKING HOPPERS

JS: Cock Flopper, Knock Shopper, you know cover song of all time. What would be the drill. your choice for worst cover ever? HC: Sorry, nothing I can say in polite SO: Every version of ‘Wagon Wheel’ ... company. including ours!! Who is the most attractive member of PS: If Susan Boyle sung ‘War Pigs’. your band? JS: Our version of ‘The Final Countdown.’ It SO: Seriously, you have to see us!! ‘Saxy- just sucks. Miss-H’ all the way!! HC: Us playing ‘Blurred Lines’ by Robin PS: Sam. Thicke. LAURA WILLIAMSON talks linguistics, Duran Duran and religion with Wanaka’s JS: Sammy, sweet Sammy oh Sammy I want In a hand-to-hand combat situation, who favourite live act. to have your children – oh hang on that’s bad would win: Lemmy from Motorhead or isn’t it. God? Their first gig was less than two years ago and New Year’s Eve at the lake. And hen HC: They are all pretty tasty, but Jeff’s the SO: Buddha would kick his ass - Lemmy (“it was messy, very messy, but the band parties. They really like hen parties. best cook! would be too busy vomiting over his bass was tight, real tight”), yet Rock Hopper have To find out what makes the band tick, we What’s your favourite song to play live? amp! alreay established themselves as a Wanaka caught up with Hoppers Sam Orbell (guitar, SO: Definitely originals!! PS: Da G-man. classic, famous for their rowdy shows and bass, vocals, hen parties), Pete Stevenson PS: Our version of Planet Claire at Hen Parties! JS: Lemmy IS God. eclectic repertoire of covers. Describing (the fiddle), Jeff Sinnott (hits things) and JS: Our originals. HC: I would pick a Celtic goddess of war - a their sound as “bohemian mix of toothless Helen Carter (blows things) and hit them with HC: Love playing our originals! deity that could really kick some she-butt. stomp and redneck serenades”, they’re the a few questions. To keep it interesting, we We think Duran’s Duran’s version of ‘911 Lemmy and his sleazy, man-whore mutton- sort of band that makes you want to drink thought we’d make them answer separately. is a Joke’ by Public Enemy is the worst chops wouldn’t stand a chance! Jim Beam, throw your bra onstage and get Turns out they have a lot in common, though into girl fights, which are all very good things Jeff was the only one who got the Lemmy And for your at-home listening pleasure, On music columnist MAL has in a post-Bieber world. They say they love question right. prepared a ‘Flying Mix’ to go with our autumn issue, featuring Hans Zimmer, their live and local gigs at the Bullock Bar What rhymes with Rock Hopper? Expendable Youth, Fat Freddy’s Drop, and field recordings of sparrows and a and the Hawea Hotel, but recent highlights SO: Knock Shopper. tui chasing a blackbird. It’ll make you soar. Go to www.onmag.co.nz to listen have been doing big shows like Wanakafest PS: Flock Cropper. and download for free.

24 MAGAZINE. MAGAZINE. 25 on the scene

i

IN WANAKA Romance Mt Iron of On top

Home is where the heart is – but Wanaka is the place that sends hearts aflutter. Touted as one of the top 10 romantic destinations in the world by American book ‘Dream Destinations: 100 of the World’s Best Vacations’, it’s the perfect spot for a little lovin’. But what to do on a first date or that milestone anniversary? We’ve got the low-down on the area’s lovey-dovey highlights. J’adore: No-one nails romance quite A wine winner: Avoid the awkwardness like the French. But if you can’t jet to Paris, of a first date with the help of a little booze swing by Bistro Gentil. Ask for an Enomatic and a common conversation topic by wine wine card and taste-test your way around tasting. Rippon is your go-to place. local and loving the dangerously delectable wines from the On track: Many a marriage proposal has dispensing machines, then cosy up for a taken place on top of Mounts Iron and Roy – magnifique meal. so slip on some walking shoes and get those War Birds over Wanaka Mile high: Get your hearts beating even pulses racing. faster by taking a scenic flight in a nostalgic Lakeside love: There’s nothing better biplane. Classic Flights can whisk you and than tucking into fish and chips or a gourmet your beloved to a secluded lakeside spot for picnic while taking in magic views. Keep a picnic lunch. Bliss! it simple and lull by the lake or chill by the Pitch a tent: If all you need is love, then Clutha River in Albert Town. you can’t go past back-to-basics camping. Hollywood romance: Kick back on Just pack a tent and sleeping bags to snuggle Cinema Paradiso’s comfy couches then split up in – idyllic DOC camping areas are at a just-baked cookie at intermission. Kidds Bush Reserve and Boundary Creek. REBECCA WILLIAMSON

Classic Flights: Freedom of Romance package Bistro Gentil: Poulet Torchon dish 26 MAGAZINE. on track UNSPOKED how young wanaka rolls

Riding off-road is just the kind of good muddy fun youngsters should get into as favourite with the Unspoked kids, with the often as possible. Unspoked is making sure they do. biggest turnout to date being one ride when Unspoked is the junior division of local Oliver was joined by Scott Wright, who 38 young cyclists turned up. That’s a lot of mountain bike club Bike Wanaka. Focussing had just relocated to Wanaka from the MTB pedal power. on cross-country and trail riding, the group Mecca of Rotorua. He put together rides To get involved, youth from Year 7 through aims to encourage and develop mountain and sorted out the groovy black and orange 13 need to first sign up to Bike Wanaka bikers between the ages of 11 and 16. Unspoked bike shirts for the kids to wear, (www.lakewanakacycling.ning.com) as paid Unspoked got its start in October 2011 tops that are fast becoming legendary on the members - a junior costs $10. To find out when ten local kids from Mount Aspiring trails of Wanaka. where and when rides are happening, they College joined together to take on the Dean’s The group runs regular fat tyre get- can then join the Unspoked Facebook group Bank 10-hour race. “They all had a real togethers for young people, usually every and get in touch with Oliver to let him know blast and were smiling from ear to ear, and Thursday. Oliver said Sticky Forest was a they’re coming. All skill levels are welcome. I thought it would be great to get them out As for young Wanaka riders to watch, mountain biking together on a regular basis. Oliver said keep an eye out for Paul Wright. Campbell Russell I suggested this to them at the race and they “He has great downhill skills, and is fit and were all very keen, so the following Thursday strong on the uphills mixed with a self who’s going to join her?) have all been riding we started the weekly rides,” said Unspoked determination to give it his best. A 3rd place regularly and improving. “I look forward to orgainser Oliver Young. overall at the Big Easy this year showed his see who can chase Paul down!,” Oliver said. emerging talent to the fullest.” He added Unspoked is always on the lookout for that Alex Young, Nick Toepfer, Luke Wright, volunteers. Any adults keen on trying to keep Sam Coupland, Joseph Wilson, Harrison up with a great bunch of kids on wheels can Brown and Phoebe Young (the only girl - contact Oliver on [email protected].

Sam Coupland Phoebe Young 28 MAGAZINE. on foot on the water TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

ANNABEL WILSON dives into one of her favourite local stretches of water – the mighty Matukituki. There’s a fair amount of magic to the Mt Aspiring the ancient ancestor watching Fancy a challenging day trip? Try this classic walk along the spine of the onomatopoeic Matukituki. It’s said this is a over us all. mighty Pisas. misnomer, as when the Scots recorded the The mouth of the Matakitaki meets Lake You’ll need two vehicles for this one, Otago at its best: tussocks, hebes, schist, Maori placenames for the area, they heard Wanaka just past Glendhu Bay. Once the lots of food, clothes for all weather (even ghostly rock towers and Spaniards with Matakitaki as Matukituki. It was named after shores were a site for gathering pounamu, in summer), a topo map and plenty to their spectacularly tall flowerheads. an early chief and also has the meaning ‘to nephrite, birds’ eggs, eels and up until drink. It’s a one- to two-day mission, but You’ll look down on the Cromwell Basin gaze upon’. Indeed, to glimpse this river is to around five hundred years ago, snaring moa. well worth the effort. on one side and the Crown Range on the be drawn into its snowfed depths. After rain, These days, anglers tread the edges of the Leave one car at the Tuohys Gully other, and feel you can reach up and the water becomes milky as silt gets stirred river in pursuit of introduced brown and carpark near the base of the Snow Farm touch the Queenstown-bound Air NZ up, but on clear days you can make out the rainbow trout, and hunters scramble along road and head to the top of the Crown planes as they pass close overhead. myriad stones strewn upon her belly. It’s the tops of Mt Alta and Bent Burn for red Range in the second one. Park at the Another five hours or so, and you get worth getting cold feet to hunt out a water- deer, chamois and wild pigs. carpark at the Crown Saddle—you’ll to Tuohys Saddle, where you have two smoothed rock for your palm. Look for that My attraction to this river however is not see a DOC sign marking the start of the choices. Turn right and drop down distinctive pink schist only found here, or an in one of fish and game. For me the appeal track, which zig zags steeply upwards. to spend the night in the rustic-but- albescent piece of quartz. lies in the nuances of the seasons, and Get used to it. There are a lot of ups and adorable Meg Hut (built for musterers I’ve walked along her banks since I was sometimes the changes that occur in a day. downs to come as the trail follows the in 1958) or turn left and head down the a kid, exploring both the East and West Winters, whether still or stormy, are always ridgelines of the gorgeous Pisa Range. 4WD track through Tuohys Gully. You’ll branches. Lying in the long grass next to It’s about 1.5 hours to Rock Peak, be rewarded with a 600-metre descent moody, haunting. In summer oaky native the river’s life-support willows somehow where you could turn around and head through a fascinating microclimate, a orchids and dandelions spring up along her back to your car, but why stop there? boggy green oasis in the heart of the dry makes picnics taste better and talk sides. Spring brings the rumble of avalanches The views from the track are Central Cardrona, home to a robust population turn philosophical. Look up and you’re to the black peaks above. Autumn is a great of cackling birdlife including some surrounded by the glacier-shaped landscape time to ford the river and follow the torrent resident ducks. carved out in the last Ice Age, with Tititea / as you watch a storm roll in. This is an exposed alpine route, and it can get nasty quickly in adverse conditions, so be prepared and tell someone where you’re going. For more info and advice, check in with the crew at the DOC office, Ardmore Street, Wanaka. Good news: Once you reach the Tuohys Gully car park, you’ll find yourself but a short drive from the Cardrona Hotel, the perfect place to reward yourself with a pint in the garden bar while you relive Photo: Laura Williamson your epic walk. Annabel Wilson explores the Matukituki Pisa Range Valley with her family, Easter 1984 30 MAGAZINE. MAGAZINE. 31 opinion little ones

ROCKET SCIENCE It’s completely excellent to be a kid for many reasons, one of which is that no one contacts the psychiatric authorities when you want to blow stuff up, and when it comes to controlled explosions, there may be no better method than this childhood classic: Mentos and Coke. I grew up in this area and I think it’s ruined me a little. Honestly, one of the best parts of going on holiday is coming home. This is not a phenomenon that begins In honour of our “flight” theme we thought good shake. when I get to the Southern Lakes area; it sometimes begins in Auckland even. I get we’d tell you how to make a Coke-and- • Throw the bottle really high above your progressively more excited the closer I get to home. I was enraptured by the low Mentos-powered rocket. It’s a great party head and let it fall onto a hard surface. winter light in Ashburton this time round. I’d just spent two weeks in Hawai’i and trick and makes a big sticky mess that is • Run away. Blast off! I was fizzing on the view in Ashburton. Clearly this is serious. really annoying to adults. Why does it work? Apparently this is • Get yourself a 2L bottle of Coke, a pack of something scientists have argued a lot about. Whilst in Hawai’i I thought about New arrive on a boat that is. Mentos and some masking tape. (HINTS: Most them agree it has to do with nucleation, Zealand a lot: “If I was on a beach in New But when I want to indulge in a tasty New Diet Coke works best. And use the white where the carbon dioxide in the Coke is Zealand I’d have it all to myself right now” Zealand-made craft beer after a day of flat- minty Mentos, not the coloured ones. They attracted to the thousands of little bumps - granted I’d probably be in a 5 mm wetty white-fuelled-riding amongst mind-blowing suck for rocket fuel.) created by microscopic layers of liquid sugar or a down jacket once the sun went down scenery – and when I want to do that in • Cut off a 10cm strip of tape and stick two or on the surface of the Mentos. Lots of bubbles - “If I was in New Zealand, this would be a peace, without fear of being stung, bitten or three Mentos to it, leaving the tape exposed form all over the mints as they sink to the beach break, and I wouldn’t be quaking in mauled, or sharing the track with the sweaty at either end. Fold over and stick the ends of bottom, releasing extra gas that pushes the my reef booties about falling on the reef or masses – there’s no place like home. the tape together. liquid away, hard. But whatever. The main Tiger Sharks eating me” – New Zealand’s We have on our doorstep one of the • Dangle the Mentos into the bottle. Leave the thing is that it’s really cool. PS - Be careful. Great Whites don’t like eating us, they just most incredible places on earth. I suspect end of the tape hanging over the rim of the Launch in an area with lots of space. And take an exploratory bite – “If I was in New the only reason we still have it this good is bottle neck. don’t throw the rocket at anyone. That would Zealand I wouldn’t need a permit to go for because there’s only a few of us here, and • Screw the lid on, not too tight. be silly. a mountain walk” - “If I was in New Zealand the majority of that few live in Auckland. Our • Turn the bottle upside down and give it a this coffee would be a lot more likely to be 17 people per square km compared to say, LAURA WILLIAMSON awesome.” This “grass is greener in New the UK’s 259, means that we get away with Zealand” narrative was ever present during a lot of environmental mismanagement. And a recent European trip too. Well, almost – maybe - because we just need to look out Overlooking the lake and mountains it stopped whilst I ate French pastry, and our windows to get the impression that the Relishes Café is something of a Wanaka institution. drank Belgian beer. wilderness is doing just fine - we’re a little There are definitely things I think other prone to complacency. Seasonal, local produce dominates a contemporary menu. places do better. I like the European’s laissez If we want Aotearoa to remain the best faire approach to personal safety – they seem place in the world to come home to, to assume people will think before acting. I complacency is not what we need right now. was surprised to find that Americans appear If this land resonates as deeply with you as to be more relaxed about safety too; they let it does with me, please do all you can to people ride on the back of pick-ups, and they protect it; our mountains, bush, rivers, lakes, do not instantly recoil at the sight of a dog: oceans and all that dwell therein are worth it’s refreshing. The Aussies are - I’ve found – fighting for. generally friendlier than us Kiwis, if you don’t MIEK DEUNINCK Open from 7am, dinner from 5pm every day. 32 MAGAZINE. 99 Ardmore Street, Wanaka | Ph 03 443 9018 degustation on the page WHARE KEA CHEFS THE MOUSEPROOF KITCHEN AMONG AUSTRALASIA’S BEST BY SAIRA SHAH

Local chefs James Stapley and Sarah Wadsworth have been causing a stir. The Mouseproof Kitchen opens with a birth, with all the pain, hope and dread Chef James has been invited to be the sole New Zealand representative chef at that can come with that moment, and the blurry minutes, then hours, that follow. the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival Masterclass weekend, and Sarah has won In this case, the parents are told their daughter is severely disabled, and will Mindfood/Silver Fern’s Best Homecook of the Year competition. probably never walk, talk, eat properly or engage with other people. Chef James will join superstar chefs from other national finalists. Sarah finished her An opening chapter like this leads you to days are as much dictated by a ongoing around the globe to create dishes for an recipe a bit early and admittedly got creative expect two things: one, a depressing read, battle with the leaky roof, an army of cunning exclusive Relais & Chateaux International in the last few minutes by making some fresh and two, a tale of the triumph rats and French bureaucracy Chef and Wine dinner in Melbourne on March corn tortilla chips using an opened can of of the human spirit where the as with the needs of their 6. From 8 March, he will front the Langham tomatoes as a cut out. "I knew I wanted parents overcome adversity, daughter. An eccentric cast Masterclass session that has a central theme to serve the dish with tortillas and kept learn lots of lessons and wheel of neighbours and hangers- of water. The session takes food and wine contemplating how to maximize the flavour off contently into the dusk on (undocumented hippies, lovers on a journey to explore the concepts of the chips, while also using a convenient knowing they are better people questionable “heroes” of the and craftsmanship behind working with shape to spoon the chili onto, so the diameter for it all. Resistance, a gay orphan the rich supply of produce created from the of the can was perfect." There’s a little bit of both with some pretty big mother bodies of water that connect our planet. For those who wish to experience Sarah here, but mostly there isn’t. issues), as well as Anna’s own Sarah has been assisting Chef James in the and James’ cuisine, guests of Whare Kea That’s what makes this book judgemental and slightly potty kitchen with dinner service since November. Lodge have a five-course degustation stand out. The parents, mother, provide a foil to the She loves the creativity involved with coming included in their stay, and those who stay Anna and Tobias are, at gentle Freya who stays sweetly up with a new menu every day based on for three nights or longer may enjoy a the beginning, selfish about in the background as if waiting seasonal availability, as well as guests' complimentary cooking class. what has happened to them, for her parents to come to preferences and dietary requirements. Her To try Sarah’s recipes, head to discussing abandoning Freya, Pick up your copy at terms with her, and with each winning recipe was her own Southwestern seasonalalchemist.com and to peep into worrying that a lifetime of Paper Plus Wanaka, other. Lamb Chili, which she had to prepare in a Whare Kea’s kitchen, hit up: 23 Helwick Street caring for her will hijack their Shah herself is mother to one-hour cook off that saw her pitted against wharekealodge.com/nz/from-the-kitchen/. future. They share a black a child with severe cerebral humour about their situation, palsy, and while she distances about their “baby with no herself and her family from brain”—this sounds horrible, but it’s the the fictional characters in the book, Freya’s exact opposite of the noble hand wringing condition mirrors that of her own child. you’d get from characters in a Hollywood The Mouseproof Kitchen offers a genuine movie. It feels real. More importantly, it glimpse into that experience. conveys the idea that, in a situation like this, Food bonus: The novel closes with a list of there is no proper reaction. There are only recipes from the Languedoc, including olive different ways of coping. Each individual tapenade, savoury olive and ham cake and needs to find his or her own. Jerusalem artichoke soup, a reminder that The London-based pair (he’s a composer, food, in the end, makes a lot of things a lot she’s a chef) move to a run-down farmhouse better. Yum. Southwestern lamb chilli Sarah with Mindfood editors and judges in the Languedoc region of France. Their LAURA WILLIAMSON 34 MAGAZINE. MAGAZINE. 35 ALMOST FAMOUS (2000) Endearing teen journalist Will goes on tour Melvins and Pearl Jam. on screen The rare video footage with up-and-coming band Stillwater for Best scene: Rolling Stone magazine. Loses his virginity, of Nirvana’s first performance of their MUSIC falls in love and bears witness to beautiful breakthrough hit, Smells Like Teen Spirit. SOOTHES EVEN madness along the way. Plus Kate Hudson and Billy Crudup are in it. Swoon! HIGH FIDELITY (2000) THE SAVAGE Best scene: When the band’s private plane This is a film for the makers of mix tapes and flies through a thunderstorm. Home truths lists. Nick Hornby’s London-based novel is BEAST as the members confess what’s on their PART transposed to Chicago where vinyl junkie chests. Best mid-air scene ever. TWO Rob (John Cusack) composes a list of his Top Five break ups then contacts his exes to MORE MUSIC MOVIES AND ROCKUMENTARIES TO MONG OUT TO figure out what went wrong. Worth watching Last issue we published LAURA WILLIAMSON’s favourite music movies (she because the “musical morons” in this movie got a lot of flack for the Spice Girls, but that’s what you get for being avant- make lists for every conceivable occasion, garde). ANNABEL WILSON has a few more suggestions to get you through autumn. just like us. Annabel’s top five music movies. Best scene: Bruce Springsteen’s cameo is pretty cool, but Jack Black singing ‘Let’s Get DAZED & CONFUSED (1993)) It On’ is next level! School’s out for summer! School’s out forever! Alice Cooper blazes over the opening sequence and introduces us to a motley crew of kids on their last day of high school, 1976. Richard Linklater’s coming- HYPE! (1996) of-age cult film takes its title from a Led Rockumentary tracking the basement Zep song of the same name. Watch hotties inception of the Seattle sound to its including Matthew McConaughey, Ben commercialisation in the mid 90s. Includes Affleck and Milla Jovovich get all wiggy at the interviews and performances from drive in and in the woods. bands linked with the Sub Pop brand like Mudhoney, Nirvana, Soundgarden, The Best scene: Alright, alright, alright! When seniors Pink (Jason London) and Wooderson (McConaughey) escort ‘fresher’ Mitch into local hangout, The Emporium. Tight pants, tighter t-shirts and flowing tresses. The apex (2007) Fly by, dine in CONTROL of London’s career, considering he went on A gritty biopic designed for watching with to star in the saccharine series Party of Five the curtains shut when it’s dismal outside, or takeaway with Sasanoki! and recently pleaded guilty to disorderly Manchester-style. Shot in colour then conduct after getting in a bar fight then printed to black and white, Control tracks soiling himself in the back of a cab. the rise and demise of Joy Division’s post punk rock Adonis, Ian Curtis. A poignant reminder of how the most talented and tortured artists fly too close to the ether. SASANOKI Best scene: The part when Curtis has an SASANOKISASANOKI epileptic fit on stage. Haunting. Daunting. 26 Ardmore St Will probably leave you feeling a little like the Lake Wanaka audience did when they saw this live. Tel: 03 443 6474 36 MAGAZINE. SASANOKI 26 Ardmore St, Lake Wanaka. Tel: 03 443 6474 26SASANOKI26 Ardmore Ardmore St, LakeSt, Lake Wanaka. Wanaka. Tel: 03 Tel: 443 03 6474 443 6474

26 Ardmore St, Lake Wanaka. Tel: 03 443 6474 Sasanoki ad On mag Autumn 2014 and 14 proof 1.indd 1 18/02/14 9:04 AM

26 Ardmore St, Lake Wanaka. Tel: 03 443 6474 inspiration x FLOSS

On the streets of the Mission, I gave a dusty fur coat to a haggard old hippie named Storm. x Two brain surgeries and a life devoid of oral hygiene Storm says that teeth are overrated.

Storm wanted to be a dancer, but these days she does her dancing upon rails of powdered steel and smoke filled streets cackling with the unadulterated joy, of somebody who has nothing left to lose.

As she turns to leave, an afterthought, she offers sage advice on the alternative uses for dental floss. INDIA HUGHES ILLUSTRATION: She says, to always apply cocaine to the wound before attempting DIY stitches, and never to use mint flavoured floss.

ALI JACS www.alijacs.com

Based in Wellington, Ali Jacs is a performance poet, storyteller and New Zealand’s 2012 National Poetry Slam Champion. Her work is equal parts hilarious, hard-hitting and thought- provoking, speaking to the madness, and the beauty, of our times. She blew us away at this WANAKA year’s Outspoken Festival of Words & Storytelling, and she has shared this poem with us. the little magazine with a big heart

later on WINTER ISSUE ON THE STREET JUNE 1, 2014 onmag.co.nz 38 MAGAZINE. GET ON THE LAKE WITH US

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