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Andrew Bolton La Moda È Sacra Gianni Versace, John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana: Al Metropolitan Va in Scena Un Dialogo Tra Abiti Haute Couture E Opere Religiose

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Andrew Bolton La Moda È Sacra Gianni Versace, John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana: Al Metropolitan Va in Scena Un Dialogo Tra Abiti Haute Couture E Opere Religiose Formazione da MOSTRE antropologo, Bolton è curatore capo al Costume Institute del Metropolitan Museum di New York. Posa con il bassotto Hector sul terrazzo della sua casa in Central Park Andrew Bolton LA MODA È SACRA GIANNI VERSACE, JOHN GALLIANO, DOLCE & GABBANA: AL METROPOLITAN VA IN SCENA UN DIALOGO TRA ABITI HAUTE COUTURE E OPERE RELIGIOSE. IL CURATORE: «È UN PELLEGRINAggIO VERSO LA BELLEZZA» TESTo — OLIVIA FINCATO FOTo — DEAN KAUFMAN PER LIVING MOSTRE Andrew Bolton a fianco dell’abito Angelo D’Oro di Roberto Capucci, 1987, courtesy Fondazione Roberto Capucci (in questa pagina). Manichini vestiti Dolce & Gabbana, collezione Autunno/ Inverno 2013-14, tra i protagonisti della mostra Heavenly Bodies (10 maggio-8 ottobre), nella sezione Anna Wintour Costume Center del Met. Foto T.Ling/Met 108 «IL cattolicESimo ha inflUENZato notEVolmENTE la crEScita artiStica DElla maggior partE DEI DESignER» La grande terrazza, con vista mozzafiato sul Central Park, è sua Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination (dal 10 maggio alleata: «Quando sono quassù libero la testa, avvisto le aquile all’8 ottobre), Bolton mette in scena non solo il legame tra moda che vivono sul tetto del palazzo, respiro l’energia di New York, e religione, ma anche il potere dell’iconografia cattolica nello senza essere in mezzo alla gente», racconta Andrew Bolton, sviluppo creativo. «Sono anni che rifletto su questo tema, la curatore del Costume Institute al Metropolitan Museum di New devozione, che non raramente ha coinvolto stilisti e designer. York mentre accarezza l’amatissimo bassotto, Hector. «Ora che Gianni Versace, John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana si sono è cresciuto non c’è il rischio che i rapaci cittadini se lo portino ispirati alle vesti liturgiche, ai mosaici bizantini e al culto della via», sorride, impeccabile nel total look disegnato dal suo Vergine Maria per creare collezioni», spiega il curatore, laureato compagno, lo stilista Thom Browne. Quando non è in ufficio, a in antropologia all’università di East Anglia e originario di un Bolton piace lavorare nel retro del suo appartamento, «è meno piccolo villaggio in Lancashire. «Ma quali sono gli impulsi luminoso e mi permette di riflettere più profondamente, di dietro la loro visione e forza narrativa? Non avrei mai pensato entrare nella mente». È difatti dalla penombra del suo studiolo alla religione, eppure essere cattolici influenzò notevolmente che l’abile pensatore ha dato vita ad alcune delle più spettacolari la crescita artistica della maggior parte dei designer». Ispirato mostre di moda e costume al Met, da Manus x Machina: Fashion dalle teorie dei teologi David Tracy, autore del libro The in an Age of Technology, conclusa con più di 750 mila visitatori, Analogical Imagination, e Andrew Greely, autore di The alla scorsa Art of the In-Between, retrospettiva su Rei Kawakubo, Catholic Imagination, Bolton sostiene che, a differenza delle rivoluzionaria e impenetrabile fondatrice del marchio nipponico altre religioni più analitiche, le allegorie cattoliche non solo Comme des Garçons. Quest’anno, per l’attesa mostra Heavenly rendono concetti complessi come l’incarnazione di Cristo più 109 MOSTRE Al centro veste statuaria disegnata sinistra abiti di Versace. Dietro, da Riccardo Tisci per la Madonna abiti di Dolce & Gabbana, I retroscena della mostra cercando delle Grazie, in preparazione della Thom Browne, A.F. Vandevorst LA MODA È SACRA nella sezione mostra Heavenly Bodies. Sulla e Jean-Paul Gaultier TENDENZE di living.corriere.it comprensibili, ma influiscono profondamente sulla capacità Costume Center, dove sono esposti più di 40 sontuosi abiti dei fedeli di apprendere e raccontare per immagini. «Il défilé papali provenienti dal Vaticano, compresa una preziosa di abiti ecclesiastici nel filmRoma di Fellini è un esempio tiara incastonata di diamanti, passando poi, come se fosse grandioso di come le processioni cattoliche possono diventare il corridoio di una chiesa, alle installazioni site-specific sfilate di alta moda», continua l’esperto. «Desidero che nella galleria Bizantina e quella del Medioevo Europeo. Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination sia un «Al Cloisters, ogni stanza racconterà invece una storia pellegrinaggio tra la bellezza degli abiti haute couture e le opere diversa, legata alla semplicità e all’ascetismo dei monaci», religiose che fanno parte della collezione del Metropolitan». dice il conservatore. I visitatori potranno avere un’esperienza Come il crocifisso bizantino dell’ala del Medioevo Europeo a puramente estetica, oppure, una volta sedotti dalle opere cui Gianni Versace si ispirò per disegnare l’abito da sera dorato esposte, potranno interrogarsi a seconda della fede. Durante del 1997 e alcuni mosaici della cattedrale di Santa Maria Nuova i viaggi in Vaticano Bolton mostrò lo storyboard con gli di Monreale, spunto per la collezione Dolce & Gabbana 2014. abiti selezionati per la mostra a diversi cardinali: «Non avrei «Volevo mettere in scena l’aspetto pomposo e spettacolare delle cambiato nulla, ma volevo capire se c’erano dei divieti», processioni, del culto pubblico e delle gerarchie ecclesiastiche sorride, mentre Hector gli scodinzola a fianco. «Ho trovato al Metropolitan di Fifth Avenue; mentre al Cloisters, sede un team aperto e ricettivo, con spiccato sense of humour. distaccata del Met, quello più quieto e austero degli ordini Hanno fatto fatica a individuare qualcosa che potesse monastici francescani, domenicani e agostiniani». Il consiglio offendere la sensibilità dei credenti». L per visitare la mostra è partire dalla sezione Anna Wintour METMUSEUM.org 110.
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