Stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto 445-3, Myohoin Maekawa-cho Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto.1 Kyoto 605-0932, Japan Tel. +81 75 541 8288 Hanoi, Shanghai & Japan Trip 2005 Itinerary

Richard Peterson 16 September 2005. Complete, except incomplete Tokyo

2+1/2+1/2=33 full days. 66 films (7 x $205.00=$1,435.00)

Melbourne

Flight: Saturday 17 September Tullamarine to Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines VN 780 Depart: 10.35 am, Tullamarine Airport Arrive: 10.00 pm, Hanoi, Noibai Airport 12 hrs 25 mins. Boeing 777, Economy Class, one stop

Hanoi

Saturday evening 17 - Friday 23 September, 7 nights, 6 full days. No public holidays in that period. Zephyr Hotel, 4-6 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi 2 streets east of Hoan Kiem lake, past C15 Ba Da Temple and St Joseph’s Church, 1886 3 Star, includes breakfast, twin share. 220 volts. Laundry. 24-hour room service. 40 minutes to airport

Climate. Monsoons: May-October, warm, humid. Violent, unpredictable typhoons: July-November. September temperature: 24-31°. Humidity: 87%. Rainfall: 250 mm/month. Population: over 3 million Money. ANZ Bank: 24 hour ATM. Open: 8.30-4, M-F

[21 September: Step and Conan depart Melbourne, 22 September morning, arrive in Fukuoka 23 September: Yoko and Shaun go to Sydney for Victorian State Futsal, indoor soccer five a side, under 11 National Tournament, then 28 September morning arrive in Fukuoka 24 September probably early evening, Step arrives in Tokyo]

** Hanoi Old Quarter:

St Joseph Cathedral, Pho Nha Tho [fashionable shopping]. Main gate: 5-7am, 5-7pm, straight ahead, then right, ring bell at side door, high up on right. Other times enter a block away at Diocesan Compound, 40 Pho Nha Chung. 1886. 35 [22 on walk].

1 www.fourseasons.com/kyoto/landing_3/?gclid=CJa3u- HZ4NQCFcoIKgodUIgNJQ&source=gaw16kytS01&KW_ID=sK8qiO3bF_dc%7Cpcrid%7C118234967529&s _kwcid=AL!4732!3!118234967529!b!!!!%2Bfour%20%2Bseason%20%2Bkyoto&ef_id=V@BgMQAAAOFlp1c d:20170628140044:s

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La Brique, 6 Pho Nha Tho, opposite St Joseph Cathedral, in wall of former fishmarket. 9am-midnight. [Cafe] seafood, fish in banana leaf and cha ca fish barbequed. 88

$ ANZ Bank, 14 Pho Le Thai To, west bank of Lake 8.30-4pm M-F. 24hr ATM. 3

GC Pub, 5 Pho Bao Khanh. Mellow, gay friendly. 109

Antiques: Pho Han Gai, Pho To Tich, Pho Han Khai and Pho Cau Go. North-west of Lake.

Bia Hoi 68 Hang Quat [Bar], Pho Hang Quat. 105

South of Lake is the French Quarter, grid pattern streets.

Walk on Map, begins at:

Ngoc Son [Jade Mountain] Temple, on island. 8-5pm. Over The Huc [Rising Sun] Red Bridge, 1885. north end of Lake, 34 [1 on walk]. Logan, p 50.

Narrow fronted ‘tunnel’ or ‘tube‘ houses (tax on width). Maze of back allies.

Don Xuan Market, cnr Pho Hang Khoai & Pho Dong Xuan. Rebuilt 1994. [6 on walk].

**Memorial House, 87 Pho Ma May. 9-11.30, 2-5pm. North of Lake. Chinese merchant house carefully restored in 1999. Unique in Hanoi. 33 [8 on walk].

Red Beer, 97 Pho Ma May. North-east of Lake. Micro brewery, 119

Long Bien Bridge. 1682 m. Built 1888-1902, designed Gustave Eiffel, rebuilt often. Now only foot and rail traffic.

Bach Ma Temple, Pho Hang Buom & Pho Hang Glay. Small, oldest in the city. Founded 1142. Horse legend. 28. [11 on walk].

Cua O Quan Chuong [East Gate]. Renovated 1994. [12 on walk].

Highlands Coffee. South-west end of Lake. Balcony with view. 111

Club Opera, 59 Pho Ly Thai To. Old Quarter [restaurant]. Vietnamese in European setting. Opposite Sofitel Metropole Hotel, south east of Lake. Tel: 824 6950. 80

Bia Hoi Viet Ha [Bar], 24 Pho Tong Dan. 107

Hanoi Opera House. Nha Hat Lon, Pho Trang Tien. Built 1911, careful restoration. South-east of Lake, at north of park. 122

History Museum, Bao Tang Lich Su, 1 Pho Pham Ngu Lao. 8-11.30, 1.30-4.30pm, Tue-Sun. Built 1925-32, the architect Ernest Hebrard was one of the first to incorporate Chinese and French design elements. It is one of Hanoi’s most impressive architectural showpieces. South-east of Lake. 34

Nha Hang Lan Chin [Bia Hoi Bar], 2 Pho Trang Trien. South-east of Lake. 39

Nam Phuong, 19 Pho Phan Chu Trinh. authentic Vietnamese in chic villa. Traditional music 2 hours from 7. 30. Tel: 824 0926. South-east of Lake, near History Museum and Club Opera. 65

Bookworm, 15A Ngo van So. North of Thien Quang Lake. 10-7 Tue-Sun. Tel: 943 7226. Best English bookshop in Hanoi. Mostly fiction.

Brothers Café, 26 Pho Nguyen Thai Hoc, Vietnamese in serene courtyard of 250 year old Buddhist temple. Buffet cheaper. South of Citadel. Tel: 733 3866. 54

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Fine Arts Museum, Bao Tang My Thuat, 66 Pho Nguyen Thai Hoc. 9.15-5pm, Tue-Sun. Former French Ministry building. Faces rear of Temple of Literature. South-west of Citadel. 28

**Temple of Literature, Van Mieu; Pho Quoc Tu Giam. 2km west of lake. 8-5pm. (1070), one of oldest and most significant buildings and largest Confucian complexes in Vietnam. Rare well preserved Vietnamese architecture. First Vietnamese university here, 1070. Great portico, mani gate. 5 courtyards. Khué van Pavillion, 1802, far side of 2nd pavilion. 3rd courtyard, the nucleus, 82 stelae installed from 1484 on. Walled. Chinese dominant influence. South-west of Citadel. 42. Logan, p 29.

KOTO Café, 61 Pho Van Mieu, opposite Temple of Literature. 6.30-4, 6-9.30pm, Fri-Sun. Grassroots chef training for former streetkids. South-west of Citadel. 63

**Foreign Embassies. French Colonial mansions. [Near Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum]. West of Citadel. 27

**Ho Chi Minh Stilt House, Nha San Bac Ho, 8-11 2-4pm. West of Citadel. 27. Logan, p 165.

One Pillar Pagoda, Chua Mot Cot; Pho Ong Ich Kiem. Rebuilt after 1954 and small Dien Huu Pagoda. West of Citadel. 27

Presidential Palace. Colonial. Built 1906 for Governor General of Indo-China. West of Citadel. 40

Seasons of Hanoi, Vietnamese in French villa with eclectic Vietnamese and colonial antiques. Tel: 843 5444. North-east of Citadel, before West Lake. 72

Tran Quoc Pagoda. Eastern shore of Ho Tay, off D Thanh Nien. Rebuilt C15 & 1842. On isthmus into West Lake, north-west of Citadel. 43. Logan, p 22-23

Tay Ho Pagoda, Pho Tay Ho, on isthmus into West Lake. Far north-west of Citadel. Most popular for worship. 10

**Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, D Nguyen Van Huyen, north-east 7km out. 8.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun.

Others:

Godards Department Store (Magazins Godard), cnr Pho Trang Tien Street (Rue Paul Bert) & Pho Hang Bai (Bde Dong Khanh), built c1910, by 1991 heavily altered to State Department Store.

Dr Vu Ngoc Huynh Clinic, Ly Thuong Kiet Street, 1936. ‘Hanoi Art Deco’. Logan, p 109.

★ Mirador Tower, remnant of Royal Citadel. Logan, p 54.

★★ Hai Ba Trung temple, south. 7 long houses around an inner shrine (rarely open). Finely carved timber frames and screens. South is Vien Minh Pagoda, north is Ha Ba Trung Temple. Originally built 1142, by king. Logan, p 46.

Quan Su Pagoda. Restored 1941 and 1996. Logan, p 20.

Flight: overnight 23-24 September Hanoi to Tokyo. Vietnam Airlines VN 954 Depart: 11.45 pm, Hanoi, Noibai Airport Arrive: 6.40 am, Tokyo, Narita Airport, Terminal 2. 50 kms to hotel 4 hrs 55 min, Boeing 777, Economy Class, one-stop

3

Tokyo

Saturday morning 24 [Public Holiday]– Saturday, 1 October, 7 nights, 7 full days 24 September probably early evening, Step arrives in Tokyo

Kayabacho Pearl Hotel, 1-2-5 Shinkawa, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo, 3553-8080, Map 58, D5 (just off Map 9, K5, facing the bend in a canal). www.pearlhotel.co.jp/kayabacho 3 star, not breakfast, twin share, 1 minute walk to bus, 3 minute walk to Kayabacho Station (Hibiya, Tozai lines, exit 3, or 4B. Cards: Amex, MC, V. 5 km (? actually 1.5 km) to Tokyo Railway Station, 5 minute walk to Tokyo City Air Terminal Western cuisine restaurant. 100 volt power. Wake up calls, Laundry. TO, p 38 & 66.

Japan Railpass: includes Shinkansen (220-240kph), not Nozomi (280-300kph)

Public Holidays: Few closures on Public Holidays Shubun-no-hi [Autumn Equinox]: Friday 23 or Saturday 24 September Taiku-no-hi [Health Sports Day]: Monday 10 October

Climate: Mild. Typhoons: late summer Tokyo October. Temperature: 14-20°. Rainfall: 200 mm/month

Built culture: Capacity to hold opposites. Need to make constriction work. Time no longer eradicates the past. Nothing appears to ever go away. Multi-layering of history. Progress without apparent synthesis. Always quick to recognise accomplishments of more developed societies, borrowing from cultural and scientific advances in Korea and China in C9 and C13 BF, p1572.

‘Agriculture is politically and economically sensitive in Japan, where farming is heavily subsidised and rural traditions are considered part of the heritage.’ Deborah Cameron, ‘Japan wants free trade fast-tracked. But agriculture remains stumbling block’. The Age, 14 September 2005, Business, p 1.

Translations: -an=house, -chashitu=tea ceremony house, -den=hall of temple or palace, -dera=temple, -do=hall of temple or palace, -dori=street, -gawa=river, -hasi=bridge, -in=temple, -ji=temple, -jinja=Shinto shrine, -jingu=shrine, -jutaku=house, -kawa=river, -kōen=park, -ku=district, -machi=town, -mae=in front of, -shoin=drawing room or study of a traditional house, -taisha=Shinto shrine, -tei=tea ceremony house, - teien=garden, -tera=temple, -to=tower or pagoda, and -yo=style.

Dynasties: Nara: 710-94, Heian: 794-1185, Kamakura: 1185-1333, Muromachi: 1333-1568, Momoyama: 1568-1600, Edo: 1600-1867, Meiji Restoration: 1867, Meiji: 1867-1912, Nobi earthquake: 1891, Taisho: 1912-26, Kanto earthquake: 1923 [reinforced concrete replaced brick], Showa: 1926-89, Heisei: 1989-

Tokyo: 23 ku [wards] cho [smaller districts]  chome [numbered districts]  named buildings. 1F=ground, 2F=first floor. Metal plaques fixed to lampposts or buildings.

Yamazaki Bldg 5F, 2-7-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, means: 5th floor of Yamazaki Building, which is the 18 th building of the 7th block, of the 2nd area of Kita-Aoyama, in Minato Ward.

Most museums close on Monday. Admission is in cash. A Grutt Pass offers free or reduced admission, available from museums, or tourist offices.

GaySceneJapan: www.members.tripod.co.jp/GSJ

Shinjuku Ni-chome district:

4 Advocates Cafe, 7th Tenka Bldg 1F, 2-18-1 Shinjuku-ji, Shinjuku-ji-Sanchome Station, Marunouchi, Shinjuku lines, exits C7 & C8. Open: 6-5 daily. Credit Cards. Also: Advocates Bar [Peter Anderson]

Dragon, Accord Building B1F, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku-ji-Sanchome Station, Marunouchi, Shinjuku lines, exits C7 & C8. No cards. Admission free: M-Th, Sun. Ask for Marlene [Peter Anderson]

GB, Shinjuku Plaza Bldg B1F, 2-12-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku-ji-Sanchome Station, Marunouchi, Shinjuku lines, exits C7 & C8. No cards. Men only. [Peter Anderson]

Marunouchi:

* Imperial Palace Gardens and Park, Chiyoda-ku. Otemachi Station [Chiyoda, Hanzomon, Marunouchi, Mita, Tozai Lines], Otemon Gate, 9-4.30, return token on leaving. Visited 2005.

* Marunouchi Building [2002], overlooking Imperial Palace

* Nikolai Cathedral [1891], Ochanomizu, Josiah Conder, earthquake damaged. Map 21.

C17 Edo Castle fortifications, some visible. The Imperial Palace was built on part of the Castle site. Visited 2005.

National Museum of Modern Art, 10-5, Tue-Thurs, Sat, Sun. Cards: shop only. Crafts Gallery, National Museum of Modern Art [former Imperial Guard HQ, 1910]. Visited 2005.

Tokyo International Forum [1996], 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Yurakucho Station [Yamanote, Yurakucho Lines, TIF Exit]. Rafael Vinoly. Visited 2005.

Tokyo Station, Marunouchi wing [1914] Tatsumo Kingo. Derived from Amsterdam Station? Visited 2005.

Akasaka Detached Palace [1909], Tokuma Katayama [1854-1919], court architect. With Kingo Tatsuno [qv: Bank of Japan], Tatsuzo Sone, Tokuma Katayama, Yuzuru Watanabe and Kozo Kawai, one of first graduates from Department of architecture of the imperial College of Engineering, from 1879. Almost sole successful neo-Baroque building in Japan. Revivalism continued into the 1930s. Visited 2005.

Mitsubashi Building.

Akasaka Prince Hotel [1983], Kenzo Tange

Akasaka Imperial Palace Hotel [1909], Tokuma Katayama, demolished?

Kayabacho Pearl Hotel, 1-2-5 Shinkawa, Chuo-Ku. Visited 2005.

Restaurants: LP, p 137, map p 66. None near hotel

Ueno:

Ueno Koen [1873]. Tokyo’s first public park. The JR Station: rare undeveloped station. Visited 2005.

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, former Prince Asaka Mansion [1933]. Mostly Henri Rapin [French], Lalique chandeliers and doors. 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku Meguro Station [Yamanote Line], East Exit. Or, Shiroganedai Station [Nanboku, mita Lines], Exit 1. 10-6.Closed: 2nd & 4th Wed of month. No cards. Visited 2005.

Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum [1975], 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku. Ueno Station, [Yamanote Line] Park Exit. 9.30-5, Tues-Thur, Sat, Sun; 9.30-8, Fri. Maekawa Kunio [1930s Paris student of Le Corbusier]. Largely underground. Visited 2005.

* National Museum of Western Art, 7-7 Ueno Coen [Park], Taito-ku. 1957-59. Le Corbusier. Saachi, pp 133-135. Japan’s only Western art museum. C15, Monet, Pollock. Visited 2005.

5 Hyokeikan Building, Tokyo National Museum, Ueno Park [1909], Katayama Tokuma. Visited 2005.

* Tokyo National Museum, Main Building [1938], Watanabe Hitoshi, Ueno. ‘Imperial Crown’, Asianising style. Visited 2005.

Kyu Iwasaki-tei House & Gardens [1896]. 1-3-45 Ikenohata, Taito-ku. Yushima Station [Chiyoda Line] Conder, for son of Mitsubishi founder. 9-5. No cards.

Yanaka Temple Precinct, Hatsunei Komichi covered arcade, to Yanaka-Ji shopping street, traditional shops and cafes. Daien-ji Temple [1591] near Sendagi Station: right half Buddhiist, left half Shinto.

Tokyo Bay Reclamation:

Fuji TV HQ [1996], Odaiba. Kenzo Tange

K-Museum [1996], Odaiba. Watanabe Sei

Tokyo Big Sight [1994], Odaiba. Sato Sogokeikau

Minato-ku

Caretta Shiodome Public Areas [2003], 1-8-2 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Jean Nouvel. Visited 2005.

Nippon Television Tower [2003], 1-6-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Richard Rogers. Visited 2005.

Roppongi Hills Mori Tower [2003], 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Kohn Pederson Fox, p 14.

National Art Center [2005], 7-22-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Kisho Kurokawa.

Shinagawa Central Garden [2003], 2-10 Konan, Minato-ku, Nihon Sakkei & Matsuda Hirata

Y’s Flagship Store, Yoji Yamamoto [2003], 5-3-6 Minami- Aoyama, Minato-ku, Ron Arad. Map 32.

Aoyama /Omotesando

Spiral Building [1985], 1F, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Aoyama. Omotesando station [Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzomon Lines, Exit B1]. 11-8. Maki Fumihiko, Post-modernist. Fashion, art, design, cds, café. Visited 2005.

Nadiff, Casa Real B1F, 4-9-8 Jingumae, Shbuya-ku. Omotesando Station [Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzomon Lines], Exit A2. Tokyo’s best art-music bookshop, with gallery.

** Prada Aoyama Epicenter [2003], Herzog & de Meuron, 5-2-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Omotesando Station [Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzomon Lines], Exit 5. Visited 2005.

Gallery 360º, 2F, 5-1-27 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Omotesando Station [Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzomon Lines], Exit B4. 12-7, Tue-Sun. Visited 2005.

** Tod’s Omotesando Building [2004]. 5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Toyo Ito. Tokyo Architecture & Design, pp 56 & 57. Visited 2005.

UN University [1982], Aoyama Dori, Aoyama, Kenzo Tange. Visited 2005.

* Comme des Garcons [1999], 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Façade: Future Systems. Visited 2005.

Ginza, Map 11.

6 Ginza Shiseido Building [2001], 7-5-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Ricardo Bolfill. Visited 2005.

Hattori Building [1932], Wako Department store, Ginza 4-Chome Crossing. Watanabe Hitoshi. Visited 2005.

Maison Hermes [2001], 5-4-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Renzo Piano, Ove Arup, SE. Visited 2005.

Me Issey Miyake [2001], 3F Matsuya Ginza, 3-6-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Gwenael Nicolas Curiosity. Visited 2005.

Chanel [2004]. Peter Marino. Visited 2005.

Elsewhere:

National Noh Theatre, 4-18-1 Sendagaya, shibuya-ku. Sendagaya Station [chuo, sobu Lines], or Kokuritsu- Kyogijo Station [Oedo line] Exit A4. Box Office: 10-6. Cards.

Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan [former Girls’ School], 2-31-3 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. Ikebukuro station [Yamonote line] Metropolitan Exit, [Marunouchi, Yurakucho Lines] Exit 3. 1921, Frank Lloyd Wright. Now Alumni Meeting Hall. Saachi, pp 126-129.

* Makuhari Bay-Town [1995], Mihama-ku, Chiba-ken, Steven Holl.

Hillside Terrace Housing, Fumihiko Maki [1969-79]. Near to:

Church of Christ [1995], Fumihiko Maki

* ‘Egg of Winds’ [1991], Toyo Ito, Ohkawabashi River Xcity 21, Sumida River Estuary. Saachi, p 140.

* Catholic Cathedral of St Mary, Sekigucchi, Bunkyo-ku, Edogawabashi. Kenzo Tange. 1964. Saachi, p 143.

Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens, Bunkyo-ku, near Tokyo Dome and Kanda River, Edo (1600-1868)

Foggy Forest, Showa Memorial Park, Tachikawa-shi. Fujiko Nakaya, artist, 1992.

Kiyose Kanayama Green Park, Musashino, Saitama-ken, Outer Tokyo, Shodo Suzuki, 1986

Quarter in Makuhari, Chiba Prefecture, 1992, Steven Holl. Saachi, p 141.

IBM Japan Technical Centre HQ, Makuhari Building, Chiba Prefecture, Peter Walker, 1991. Saachi, pp 146-148.

Meiji Jingu Shrine, 1-1 Yoyogi-Kamizonocho, Shibuya-ku. Yoyogi station [Yamanote Line], Omotesando exit, or Meiji-Jingumae station [Chiyoda Line], exit 2, 5.40 am-5.20 pm. Typical Shinto, with less influence of China and Korea. Visited 2005.

Senso-ji and Zojo-ji temples, generally reconstructions. Zojo-ji’s Sanmon Gate [1605], and Gokoku-ji [1681] rare survivals. Visited 2005.

* Furukawa Mansion, Komagome [1914], Josiah Conder, English architect attempted to invent an architectural style appropriate to the climate and tradition of Japan. [His English colleague Thomas Waters oversaw the 1872- reconstruction of Ginza, none survives].

Iwaski Villa, Takanawa [1908, rebuilt 1964], Josiah Conder

* Mitsui Family Club, Mita, [1913], Josiah Conder, almost Borrominiesque.

* Ministry of Justice [1895], Kasumigaseki, Hermann Ende [1929-1902] & Wilhelm Bockman [1832- 1902, both German]. Magnificent baroque, opposite approach to Conder. Only surviving of the two of their designs built, due to cost and poor foundation.

7

From 1868, a pseudo-western style of timber architecture designed and built mainly by Japanese carpenters evolved throughout Japan, eg: Kisuke Shimizu (1815-81).

* Bank of Japan HQ, Nihonbashi [1895-6], Tatsumo Kingo [Conder student, early graduate]. Derived from Palais du Luxembourg.

** Yoyogi National Gymnasium for Tokyo Olympics [1964], Shibuya-ku. Kenzo Tange. Saachi. p 62. Visited 2005.

Hanae Mori Building [1978], Omotesando, Kenzo Tange. Visited 2005.

** Nagakin Capsule Tower [1972], Kisho Kurokawa. Metabolism, manifesto [1960].Inflexible, died with faith in technology. Not located.

* Kansai International Airport, Passenger Terminal. 1988-94. Renzo Piano. Saachi, p 70.

Tokyo Central Post Office [1931], Yoshida Tetsuro. Visited 2005.

Hanae Mori Building [1978], Omotesando, Kenzo Tange. Visited 2005.

Central Telegraph Office [1926], Mamoru Yamada. Visited 2005.

Tokyo Metropolitan Festival Hall [1961], Maekawa Kunio Corbusian, with oriental motifs. Visited 2005.

Ochanomizu Square Building [1987], Isozaki Arata, collaborator of Tange, Post-modernist.

Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium [1990], Sendagaya. Maki Fumihiko

* Super Dry Hall, Asakusa. Phillipe Starke

Tsukiji [1935], Indian-style temple, 3-15-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku. Tsukiji station, Hibiya Line, exit 1.

Diet Building [1936].

Tokyo Metropolitan Building No 1 [1991], 2-8-1 Nishi-shinjuku. Tochomae Station, Odeo Line, Exit 4. North Observatory: 9.30-11pm, Tue-Sun, also South. Kenzo Tange, twin-towered.

Daiichi Insurance Building [1938], now part of DN Tower 21, Hibiya. Former Gen McArthur HQ.

Dojunkai Aoyama Block Redevelopment [2005], Omotesando, Kenzo Tange. Low rise.

Ni Ban-Kan Offices [1970], Fumihiko Maki

Gotoh Museum [1989], David Chipperfield

Tokyo City Hall [1991], Kenzo Tange

RISE Cinema [1986], Atushi Kitagawa. Surreal.

Crystal Light Building [1987], Atushi Kitagawa. Dada.

Nani Nani Building [1989], Phillipe Starck

Flamme d’Or Building, Ashai Beer [1989], Phillipe Starck. Visited 2005.

Caffé Bongo [1986], Nigel Coates

Bohemian Jazz Club [1986], Nigel Coates

Koizumi Lighting Theatre [1990], Peter Eisenman

8 Century Tower [1991], Ochanomizu. Norman Foster

Tokyo International Forum [1990], Rafael Vinoly. Visited 2005.

** International Library of Childrens’ Literature [2002], 12-49 Ueno-koen, Tait-ku, Tadao Ando. Visited 2005.

** Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku, Ryogoku Station [Sobu Line], west exit. Oedo Line, exits A3, A4. 9.30-5.30, Tu, Wed, Sat, Sun 9.30-8, Thu, Fri. No cards. Best history of Tokyo collection. Good English labelling, p 59. Visited 2005.

** Edo-Tokyo [Tatemono-en] Open-Air Architectural Museum, 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei Ishi, Musashi Koganei station [Chuo line] north exit, then any bus from stops 2 or 3 to Koganei Koen Nishi-guchi. 9.30- 4.30 pm, Tu-Sun. No cards. Visited 2005.

* Australian Embassy, DCM.

*Nakagin Capsule Tower, Kisho Kurokawa, c1972

*Systemware Building, Hiroshi Tanabe, 1986.

*Embassy of Sweden, Michael Granit.

*Billboard Building, Klein Dytham.

*Aoyama Technical College, 1990, Makoto Sei Watanabe.

Saturday morning, 1 October. Shinkansen Train: Tokyo to http://kyoto.asanoxn.com o: 3 hours

Kyoto

Gimmond Hotel, Oike-Dori, Takakura, Nakagyo-Ku, Kyoto. 1-7 October, 7 nights, 6 1/2 days 3 Star, not breakfast, twin share, 2 minute walk to Karasuma-Oike Metro Station, 5 min to bus, 3 km to Kyoto Railway Station (15 minutes by Metro). Varied cuisine restaurant, wake-up calls, laundry, 1 pm is earliest check-in, 100-volt power.

Population: 1,400,000, 610 sq km, 48 x 26 km. Heian-kyo [Kyoto] became the home to Imperial Court from 785 (Nagoaka, suburb)-795 (Central Kyoto)- 1868. Capital until 1600. Large fires, periodically destroy, so some parts have no buildings earlier than C17, but in the surrounding foothills, buildings of every period.

2,000 temples and shrines, including: 17 buildings on World Heritage List in Kyoto City, Uji and Otsu.

Chris recommends breakfast in the subway.

Source: http://kyoto.asanoxn.com

Walk. Kamigamo, northern Kyoto. Oldest part of Kyoto, around Kamigamo Shrine, which predates Kyoto. Built by the Kamo, one of two clans here before Emperor Kanmu arrived in 794. 275 households of descendants/priests formed a shake-machi township to protect and administer the shrine. The canal going east in front of the shrine is part of the original moat/irrigation system. Lined with old clay-walled family houses, some from the first generation. Famous for fresh produce. Ota Shrine 600 m east.

* [Kamigamo-jinja] Kamowawakeikazuchi Shrine, WHL (north), Motoyama, Kamigamo, Kita-ku, Kyoto, on Kamo River. Late C7, in present form by 1000, entirely rebuilt 1628, adjacent twin buildings Honden

9 [main building] and Gonden, facing south, west used temporarily while shrine rebuilt, last 1863. Nagare [flowing] style, with kohai [prayer porticos]. Also Haiden [worship hall] and 33 other shrine buildings. Grid frame, like Kasuga, but 7.7 x 5.9 m, much larger. Redolent of mysterious ceremonies and festivals. BF, pp 724-26. Main Map, north.

Or: * [Shimogamo] Kamomioya-jinja Shrine WHL (north-east), Izumikawa-cho, Shimogamo, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto. Pre-historic site, on rivers fork, In present form by 1000, entirely ritually rebuilt, regularly. Burnt down 1467- 77. Nagare [flowing] style, clearly retains ancient form. Tadasu-no-mori, naturally beautiful forest, mentioned in The Tale of Genji, etc. Main Map. Visited 2005.

* Daigo-ji Temple WHL (south east), Daigoyama/Garan-cho, Daigo [Station], Fushimi-ku (established late C9), upper and lower precincts. Upper: Yakishudo [Yakushi Buddha Hall], reconstructed 1124 and Chinju- sha Kiyotaki-gu Haiden worship hall (reconstructed 1434) in residential style. Lower: Gojunoto [5-storied pagoda] built 951 is Kyoto’s oldest reliably dated building, majestic and unshakeable, reveals its esoteric Buddhist origin, mandala paintings, the Kondo [main hall], was relocated here in 1650 and Sanpoin Omoteshoin [reception hall] for parties. Magnificent adjacent garden amalgamates chisen-kaiyu [stroll garden with pond] and karesansui [dry landscape] styles. Main Map, north. Visited 2005.

Syntax. Shin Takamatsu [1990]. 43-3 Shimogamo-minishi-ninamishiba-cho, Skyo-ku. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 123 & 125. 9.

The Garden of Fine Arts, Kyoto. Tadao Ando [1994]. Shimogamo-hangi-cho, Skyo-ku. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 123 & 126.11.

B-lock Kitayama. Tadao Ando [1988]. 41 Kamigamo-iwagakiuchi-cho. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 123 & 126.

12 Walk, Shin Takamatsu. [1986]. Kamigamo-sakurai-cho, Kita-ku. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 123 & 126.13. All are near Botanical Gardens, north of the Imperial Palace, Main Map.

Walk. Nishijin, north-east Kyoto, contained by Kita-oji-dori and Horikawa-dori streets, directly west of Imadegawa Station. Textile district, weaving brocade sashes and dying kimono fabrics. C16 Guild of Weavers lived and worked behind heavily latticed dark facades on narrow backstreets. A few workshops remain. Including, on the eastern edge:? Main Map.

* Katsura Rikyu Imperial Villa (1750) & Detached Palace (1624 & mid-C17). Built for emperor’s brother. Meticulous detail, including paths, pond and garden. Book at Imperial household Agency. Tours in Japanese at 10, 11, 2 & 3, 40 mins, video & English leaflet. BF, p 744, 746 & 1576. Not WHL. Staggered plan residence. Due west of Kyoto Station. Katsura station, hanku railways, Kyoto Line. Main Map, west.

Aizen Kobo, inigo textiles, Omiya Nishi-iru, Nakasuji-dori, Kamigyo-ku. M-F: 10-5.50. English spoken. Built in Meji period (pre-1868), carefully restored. C1. Main Map, west.

Raku Museum, central Kyoto, hand moulded low fired, tea ceremony bowls, 450-year tradition by Chorijo/Raku family, currently Raku Kichizaemon XV. Beside the Raku house. 10-4, closed Mondays. Directly west of the Imperial Palace, southeast of C1. Main Map, west.

Tak, 3 Ichijyoji-tsukuda-cho, Sakyo-ku. David Chipperfield. [1991]. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 115 & 116. 36. Main Map, remote north-east.

* Nijo-jo Castle, WHL (central), Nijo-jo-cho, Horikawa-nishirudori, Nakagyo, Kyoto. Built by founder of Tokugawa Shogunate as his Kyoto residence, in 1603 for defense of Imperial Palace and official residence of visiting shoguns. It was expanded and renovated in 1626 to become the present Ninomaru Palace [facing entrance], in the secondary enclosure, of 5 buildings, highest rank accessed innermost building. Excellent example of of the buke shoin-zukuri. The former Katsura-no-miya Palace, built in 1847 was moved to adjacent Nijo-jo’s Honmaru Palace [main enclosure], open in Autumn only. Main buildings are on a diagonal configuration, along the pond in the Ninomaru garden. Striking stoneworks on banks, Each room is magnificently adorned according to its intended use. Seiryu-en Garden, designed by Kobori Enshu is dynamic to relate to the grandeur of the palace, chisen-kaiku [stroll garden with pond] with striking stoneworks on banks, 3 islands, 3-tiered waterfall. Map 3. Visited 2005.

10 Book tickets at Imperial household Agency, 8.45-12, 1-4, M-F, south-east of Imadegawa Station, Karasuma Line, office inside park wall, fill out form, show your passport, usually same day. This is necessary for Koke- dera. [CR]

Shinsen-en to the south, remains of C8 Imperial Palace, abandoned 1227. Map 3. Visited 2005.

* Nijo-jinya. Omiya-dori-oike. Tours: 10, 11, 2, 3. Closed: Wed. C1650 former merchant’s house, secret passages, devices etc.

Face House, central Kyoto, Kazumasa Yamashita, 1974, Koromo-no-tana-dori Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 50 & 59. 27. Map 3.

 Shoyei, O-ko [incense], Karasuma-dori, Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku. From 595 AD derived from aromatic woods. Evanescent Buddhism. Zen, ‘hear the dying ash fall’. Founded 1705, modernised, though original beams retained. Senko, stick form; wari-byakudan, or wari-jinko, wood-chip types, heated rather than burned, in burner. C22. Map 3. Visited 2005.

 Ikawa Tategu-ten, paper-covered sliding doors (fusuma), Karasuma Higashi-iru, Ebisugawa-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 9-6. closed Mondays. Divide spaces in winter for more efficent heating. In summer, replaced by sliding reed doors (yoshi-shoji) which allow ventilation. Refurbishes recycled fusuma and yoshi. Catalogue of door-pulls (hikite). C25. Map 3.

[Hotel Gimmond]

 Morita Wagami, handmade paper, bukko-ji-agaru, Higashi-no-toin-dori, Shimogyo-ku. 9.30-5.30, M-F. Chinese have been writing on paper longer than the West has been numbering years. Japanese have produced paper since C7. The Moors opened the first European paper mill in C12. by 1868, Japanese used paper for ‘everything’. Here, 800 types. C21 Map 3.

 Miyawaki Baisen-an, fans, Tomino-koji, Nishi-iru, Rokkaku-dori, Nakagyo-ku (since 1823). 9-6. Cards. Oldest fan in Japan: 877. C15. Map 3.

 Ichihara Hebei Shoten, chopsticks, 1705. 10-6.30, Sun: 11-6. (1705). Most extensive range of finely crafted chopsticks in Kyoto, perhaps the world. C24. Map 3.

 Kinmata, inn [ryokan], 407 Shijo-agaru, Goko-machi, Nakagyo-ku. Seafood meals. Restaurant open: 12- 1.30 (last sitting), 5.30-7.30, reserve at least one day prior:  (075) 221 1039. English spoken. (1801). C17. Map 3.

 Horai-do, teashop, tea utensils, Shijo-agaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 10-8.50, closed: 2, 12, 22 of month, cards, English price-list, one of the last wooden shops in Teramachi, C37. Map 3.

 Jusan-ya, boxwood combs, Otabi-cho, Shin-kyogoku Higashi-iru, Shijo-dori, Shimogyo-ku. 11-8.30. Cards. English spoken. (here: 1930, previous: 1868). Fine finishing process. Ceremony every 20 years at Ise shrine, when main buildings and all treasures destroyed in a ritual fire of purification, so need to make these ritual objects every 20 years keeps the craft alive. Last in 1985 and presumably, this year? Takes 20 years to make perfect set of combs to be destroyed. ‘The greatest honour.’ C18. Map 3.

 Aritsugu, cutlery and kitchenware, Goko-machi, Nishi-iru, Nishiki-koji-dori, Nakagyo-ku, English spoken, 9- 5.30. Founded: 1560. 400 years a few blocks south of Shijo-dori, but moved to colourful Nisiiki-koji, ‘Kyoto’s Kitchen’, in 1980. C36. Map 3.

Tomi-zushi, Shinkyogoku-dori-Shijo. 5-12, closed Thurs. 5 min from Hankyu Kawaramachi Station. Near Shijo-Kawaramachi crossing. Sushi. Early or queue. Map 3.

Shiruko, Nishikiyamachi-dori-Shijo, 2 min from Hankyu Kawaramachi Station. Shijo-Kawaramachi crossing, down seedy alley, bamboo at front. 11.30-9, closed Wed. Kyoto obanzai-ryori [homestyle cooking]. Since 1932. Rikyu bento. Map 3.

Maruzen Bookshop, Kawaramachi-dori, Shijo agaru. North of Hankyu Kawaramachi Station. 10-8, closed 3rd Wed in month. Best in Kyoto. Map 3.

11

 Nisiharu, woodblock prints, Teramachi-kado, cnr Sanjo-dori, Nakagyo-ku. English spoken. Oldest shop in Kyoto dealing only with antique woodblock prints. One small tatami-mat room. (1940). C14. Map 3.

 Hiragi-ya, inn [ryokan], Oike-kado, Fuya-cho-dori, Nakagyo-ku (1860). English spoken. C7. Map 3.

 Tawara-ya, inn [ryokan], ane-koji-agaru, Fuya-cho-dori, Nakagyo-ku (1705). Most authentic in Kyoto. English spoken. C8. Map 3.

 Saiun-do, artist supplies, Fuya-cho, Higashi, Ane-koji, Nakagyo-ku, 9-6 (1863) English spoken. C9. Map 3. Visited 2005.

Misolka-an Kawaramachi-ya, Fuyacho-dori-Sanjo. 11-8, closed Thurs, 3 min from Tozai line, Kyoto- Shiyakushu-mae Station. Kyoto’s best soba noodles, traditional setting, hand made noodles for 300 years. Nishin soba [fish] or elaborate Nabe. East of Museum of Kyoto. Map 3.

 Seika-do, pewter and metalwork teapots and other tea utensils, Nijo-sagaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 11-6.30, closed Sundays, cards. English spoken. C27. Map 3.

 Ippo-do, tea, Nijo-kita, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku. 9-7. Tearoom: 11-5. Cards. English spoken (Built 1864, established 1717, opposite). C5. Also: Horai-do, a block north. Map 3.

Time’s I [1984] & Time’s II [1991], Sanjo-dori Kawara-machi-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku. Tadao Ando, Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 33 & 42. 50 & 51. Map 3.

 Naito, brooms, Sanjo-ohashi Nishi-zume, Nakagyo-ku. 9.30-7.30. (1869). C12. Map 3.

Evening: stroll in Kamogawa, along both Kiyamachi-dori and Pontocho between Sanjo-dori and Shijo-dori then cross to Gion [Kiri-doshi, Tominagacho-dori, Shiakawa-Minami-dori, to Yasaka-jinja shrine. Map 3. LP, p 97.

North of Shijo, eastern Kyoto, beside the Shirakawa Canal is Shinbashi, a triangle of teahouses beside the old canal, one block north of the canal is a miniature Bhuddist shrine. Gion-Shinbashi, eastern Kyoto, 5 minutes to the centre. Kyoto’s most famous geisha quarter. South of Shijo, along Hanami-koji-dori, rows of old ‘teahouses.’ Ichiriki teahouse (rust-coloured walls, on corner), 1805. Entry requires a personal introduction. Map 3.

 Hirata, eastern Kyoto, sudare blinds, Shijo-agaru, Yamato-oji, Higashiyama-ku. 10.30-6, closed Sundays & holidays. Over 200 years. Sudare allow paper shoji windows to be removed in summer for ventilation. Hi- yoke sudare: heavier, outdoor, in take [bamboo], yoshi [hollow, jointed, yellowish reed], gama [solid beige reed, without joints], hagi [dark brown flowering shrub branches]. Zashiki sudare [indoor, fabric border in brocade or linen, finely split bamboo reeds, joints form pattern]. Misu sudare, finest, temples, shrines, imperial places. Generally 1.35 x 0.9 m. Also made here are Nawa-noren [Hand-twisted hemp-rope curtains for kitchen or restaurant entrances] and tsui-tate [single panel standing screens, for inside entrances]. E5. Map 3.

 Kagoshin, eastern Kyoto, bamboo, Shichi-ken-cho, Ohashi-higashi 4-chome, Sanjo-dori, Higashiyama- ku, 9-6, closed Monday mornings. 1885 shop-front. Sanjo-dori was the last section of the Tokaido Highway, Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo) and direct route for transporting bamboo from the lush forests of Shiga. Bamboo: 118 varieties, 50 used here, 1,400 uses. Japan’s island climate is perfect for growing bamboo. Dried for 2 years. A stone in the path of a sprouting bamboo shoot may create a permanent groove, making the stalk useless for ordinary basketry. E2. Map 3.

Maruto Building, No 15 [1990] 347-2 Gion-machi-kitagawa, shijo-dori yamatooji, Higashiyama-ku.& Maruto Building, No 17 [1991]. 341 Gion-machi-kitagawa, shijo-dori yamatooji, Higashiyama-ku. Hiroyuki Wakabayashi. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 82 & 92. 45 & 46. Map 3.

* National Museum of Modern Art, Fumihiko Maki, (1978), Okazaki Enshoji-cho. 9.30-5, closed Mon. BF, p 1582. Parts well related to whole design. [Collection of Japanese ceramics and paintings]. Map 3. Visited 2005.

12 * Gionkaku [1927], Chuta Ito, Gion-machi-minami-gawa, Higashiyama-ku. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 70 & 72. 2. Map 3 east.

? [Nishi] Hongwan-ji Temple, WHL (central), Monzen-cho, Hanayamachi-samegai-dori, Shimogyo-ku. Founded C13, restored and relocated here 1591. Hongwan-ji subset of Jodo Shinsu sect. Grand shoin- zukuri style. Taimenjo or Ko-no-ma [Reception Room] and private space of Shiroshoin. Kokei no Niwa Karesansui [dry landscape] of rocks and sago palms is structurally simple, representing waterfalls, streams and ocean; but boldness and grandeur of Momoyama period. The bizarre and airy 3-storied Hiunkaku overlooks the pond in the Tekisuien Garden. Map 4.

? [To-ji Temple] Kyo-o-gokuku-ji, WHL (central), Kujo-cho, Minami-ku. Kyoto. Typically majesti and magnificent Momoyama Period (796), state-sponsored, esoteric Buddist Shingon sect, monastic-like. Minan Daimon [south gate], Kondo [main hall], Kodo [lecture hall], Jikido [refectory] and Kita Daimon [north gate] on n-s axis, with Gojunoto [5-storied pagoda] in southwest and Kanjoin [ceremonial hall] at southwest with Daishido [residence] (rebuilt 1380) and Raido [worship hall]. Only monument to locate position and scale of Heian-ko. Map 4.

Hogan-ji, central Kyoto, south, just north of Kyoto Station, between Nishi Hongan-ji and Higashi Hongan-ji temples, both powerful schools of the Jodo sect of Buddhism, is the monzenmachi [temple-gate town] area of old shops selling religious articles. East of the Nishi Hongan-ji central gate, many shops and old ryokan, serving temple visitors for centuries. Map 4.

* Kanjiro Kawai Memorial House, directly east of Gojo station, 569 Kanei-cho, Gojozaka, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto,  00 81 75 561 3585. Kawai was a potter, founder of folk-art movement of 1920s-30s. 5 minutes south of Gojo and Higashi-ojidori. 10-5, closed Mondays. The World of Interiors, April 2005, pp148-155 and Durston, p 226. Map 4. Visited 2005.

* [Ginkaku-ji] Jisho-ji Temple [Silver Pavilion], WHL (east), Ginkaku-ji-cho, Sakyo-ku. 8.30-5. Bus 5 from Kyoto Station, 5 min walk from Ginkaku-ji-mishi bus stop. Villa built 1482, converted to Zen temple, restored mid-C17. The Ginkaku (1489), 2-storied, ground floor in wayo style (shoin, ‘library’ style), 2nd floor is in butsudo [Buddha Hall] Zen style. Togudo [Shrine Hall and Study] built 1485, with a tsukeshoin [reading platform], chigaidana [staggered shelves], oldest known examples, Dojinsai room is the origin of the shoin- zukuri style. Garden is chisen-kaiyu [stroll-garden with pond]. Exquisite delicacy of masonry. Map 5. CR. Visited 2005.

Northern Higashiyama walk, to Ginkaku-ji, north from Keague station. LP, p 96. Southern Higashiyama walk, from Higashioji-dori, Chawan-zaka north to Higashiyama Station, LP, pp 94- 95.

* Raku-to? eastern Kyoto, foot of Higashiyama [eastern mountain] south from Ginkaku-ji [Silver Pavilion] to Kiyomizu and Sanjusangen-do [Hall of Thousand Kannon]. Many temples, at Nanzen, Zen first became influential. Paths leading to Kiyomizu-dera, greatest temple, ceramics shops from when this was the ceramics centre. Map 5.

Philosophers’ Walk follows an old canal from the foot of Ginkaku-ji southward to Gion, most famous geisha quarter, streets lined with old teahouses, and maiko apprentices. Map 5. Visited 2005.

* Hakusason-so, eastern Kyoto, restaurant, garden. 37 Ishibashi-cho, Jodo-ji, Sakyo-ku. Former private villa of painter Kanetsu Hashimoto, 1916. Pavilion, teahouse, small gallery, spectacular pond. Collected small stone carvings under the tall bamboo between gallery and house. Mourners at the death of Buddha. Lunch, 11.30-2, moderate prices, 10-5. On way to Ginkak-ji [Silver Pavillion], on hill at end of road. E36 Map 5. Visited 2005.

Fushimi, south, 10 mins by Keihan Line from Sanjo station to Fushimi Inari. River junction. Fushimi Inari is an old harvest god shrine. Part of Tokaido Highway built by the Edo (1600-1868), with old shops and inns. Fushimi Momoyama further south, C16 castle site, old sake brewing storehouses on canal. Terada-ya, historic inn museum, 263 Minami-hama-cho, 10-4. Map 7.

Ohara, north-east, 40 minutes by bus #16 or #17 from Sanjo station. Sanzen-in temple, (founded 860) secluded. Colourful female farm worker costumes. Map 9.

13

** Kiyomizu-dera Temple, WHL (central east), 1-chome, Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto. East of Gojo. (Established 778, early Edo). Relation to setting. Saimon [west gate], Sanjunoto [3-storied pagoda], Kyodo [sutra hall], Tamurado [founders’ hall], Todorokimon [middle gate], Asakurado Hall, Hondo [main hall,], Amidado [Amida Buddha Hall] all aligned e-w. Other buildings around, including: Umatodome [hitching stables] and Shoto [belfry]. The Hondo exemplifies kakezukuri[ ‘overhang architecture’], with its kiyomizu- dera stage, an imposing veranda on tall timber columns, with braces in both directions. At east is the Joju-in garden, with early Edo shakkei [borrow scenery]. Map 11. CR Visited 2005..

Walk. Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, eastern Kyoto. South from Maruyama Park towards the Kiyomizu- dera temple (1000AD) old shops and temples, cobbled streets lead to the temple are lined with monzen-jaya [temple-gate teashops], now renovated. Until recently, Kyoto’s Kiyomizu ceramic ware was fired here. Walk west down quieter side streets to Yasaka Pagoda. Ishibe-koji, a small alley, across from the Kodai-ji entrance, walled, lined with teahouses with geisha, deserted by day. Map 11.

[Kinkaku-ji] Rokuon-ji Temple Golden Pavilion WHL (north), Kinkauji-cho, Kita-ku, Kyoto, established from aristocratic country estate 1397, converted to Zen Temple 1422, Shariden or Kinkaku [Golden Pavilion], its 2nd and 3rd floors entirely gilded (epitomising Kitayama culture) and temple gardens were restored in the Edo Period. The garden was designed to incorporate Mt Kinugasayama as shakkei [‘borrowed scenery’], the viewpoint being set at the mountain top. Shariden was entirely burnt down in 1950, replaced by a 1955 replica. Map 2. CR

** Ryoan-ji Temple WHL (north-west), Goryonoshita-cho, Ryoan-ji,?-k, Kyoto. Originally, aristocrat’s country villa. Restored and garden built in 1450. Ultimate and representative garden of the karesansui style: nature compressed and given abstract expression within confined narrow space. White gravel and rocks representative of the Karesansui style. Hojo [main hall] destroyed by fire in 1797, replaced by Hojo of Seigen-ji, built 1606. renowned garden on south side 15 rocks in 5 groupings. Map 2. CR Visited 2005.

Walk. Sagano Toriimoto, western Kyoto. Turnoff half-way down the road from the torii gate south to Arashiyama. The road winds through rice fields and bamboo forest, past minor temples and shrines and crimson maples to the Togetsu–kyo bridge, centre of Arashiyama]. CR recommends Arayashyana area, including Okochi-sanso Villa. Detailed route:

** Arashiyama Walk. LP, p99 & 100. Keifuku Arashiyama line, Keifuku Arashiyama Station. Tenryu-ji Temple, 1, (west), WHL Susukinobaba-cho, Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto. Palace built 1255, with a view to Mt Arashiyama, 1339 converted to Zen temple, with Sanmon [Main Gate], Butsuden [Buddha Hall], Hatto [Lecture Hall], Hojo [Abbot], in line, burnt down. Famous dynamic and sophisticated garden, incorporating natural topography of hill, stoneworks, Ryumon-baku [waterfalls], stone bridges and rock islands, Muromachi period karesansui [dry landscape]. Visited 2005.

Exit north gate, right, then downhill:

- 2. Nonomiya-jinja]. Back up hill, bamboo forest, top of hill, [Kameyama-koen park, 3]. Visited 2005.

- Okochi-sanso Villa, 4, 9-5, 15 min walk from Keifuku Arashiyama line, Keifuku Arashiyama Station. Home of famous samurai film actor. Views over city early morning less crowded. North downhill, past Okura-ike pond, smaller temples, eg: 2nd last. Visited 2005.

- Gate of Jojakko-ji temple, with C16 Hondo and thatched Nio-mon gate, 5. Visited 2005.

Walk 150m east (not north) from gate, turn left before a cornfield to:

- Rakushi-sha, 6, thatched hut of Mukai Kyori (1651-1704), student of wandering poet Basho, who wrote here amid persimmon groves and rice fields in Sagano. [20 minute walk from Togetsukyo Bridge through bamboo forest, temples and shrines], thatched roof, amongst clay wall minka [country houses] 9-5. Continue north, wc on right, 150m to [Nison-in temple gate 7, originally built C9, with 2 Kamakura buddhas]. Visited 2005.

Return to main road, northwest to [Takiguchi-dera temple] 8, and

14 -Gio-ji temple, 9 at 4 stone way markers, return to main road, northwest to:

-Iwai, Sagatorimoto Rokutan-cho 10, 10-5, best souvenir shop in Kyoto, in old machiya (townhouse, with open front). 100m on, stone steps up to:

-Adashino Nembutsu-ji, 11, graveyard thousands of stone grave-markers. Visited 2005.

-Atago Tori Shinto shrine, orange torii gate, surrounded by minka [rural houses], 12 many thatched. Two thatched teahouses, either side of the torii, c1600, sell sweets.

- Ayu Chaya Hiranoya, 13 atmospheric tea-house, for ocha, tea. Meals by reservation in Japanese only. Map 1.

Other Kyoto sites:

?Design Centre [1989], David Chipperfield

XWalk: Uji, south-east, 40 mins by Keihan Line from Sanjo station, finest green tea in Japan. Uji Bridge, oldest stone bridge in Japan, walk up gentle slope to: xByodo-in Temple, WHL (distant south east), Renge, Uji, Uji. rare Heian period, 794-1185.Converted to a temple in 1052. Kannonondo [Kannon Hall] and Shoro [Belfry] survive. Airy and open, interior has double ciborium, hosoge designs carved bodhisattvas and murals, roof ends ornamented with bronze ho-o [like phoenix] bird. On 10 Yen coin. Jodo garden uniquely incorporates surrounding natural scenery. BF, pp 732 734.

XEnryaku-ji Temple WHL (distant north east. Not worth the effort), Honmachi, Sakamoto, Otsu, Sakyo- ku, Kyoto. Mother temple of Japanese Buddhism (established late C8, present layout by C10, reconstructed 1571), centre of monastic discipline, educating monks, founding at least 5 sects. Komponchudo [main hall] reconstructed 1642, 11 x 6 bays: [gejin] outer and [chujin] inner worship halls and naijin [sanctuary] 3 halls with finely coffered ceiling, with flagstone on the earth floor. xKozan-ji Temple WHL (distant north-west), Togano-o-cho, Umegahata-ku, Kyoto (1206). The Sekisui-in survives from then, instilling relief. Kamakura details include sugaru-hahu [leaning form] gables. 2 stone pagodas.

XMyoki-an- Tai-an [Myokian Tea Ceremony Room], (c1582). BF, pp 742 & 743. Not WHL. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 186 & 187. Off map, south-west 1].

X[Ninna-ji Temple [Ninna-ji Palace] WHL (north-west), O-uchi, Omuro, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto. Rebuilt 1641 and 1646. Characteristi Momoyama period, eg: top hung, out-swinging windows. Shinsin-den [ceremonial main hall], Imperial Palace (794, rebuilt) relocated here. BF, pp 740 & 741].

XOyamazaki Villa Muzeum. Tadao Ando [1990]. 5-3 Aza-oyamazaki-cho, Otokuni-gun. Architectural Map of Kyoto, pp 186 &187. Off map, south-west 1.

XSaiho-ji Temple (Koke-dera), WHL (west), Jingatani-cho, Nishi, Kyoto. Great influential garden, traditionally built in Tenpyo period [729-49], in 1339 restored and converted to a Zen temple, buildings destroyed 1469, moss landscape and rock garden survives. Shonantei teahouse built late C16-17. Earliest garden in Japan integrating buildings, strong stoneworks and viewpoints, influencing later gardens, eg: Rokuon-ji and Jisho-ji. Need to book. Not worth the effort. Similar to Tenryu-ji Temple.

XUjikami-jinja Shrine WHL (distant south east), Kamada, Uji, Uji. Late C11, oldest shrine buildings in Japan. Honden unusual, oldest extant Shinto main shrine [for deity] building; Haiden, for humans, residential style, airy, open shinden-zukuri style.

Step leaves us, about 2 October.

15 Nara

Day trip return from Kyoto, 30 minutes, by local train

Population 363,000. Japan’s first capital, from 710-785 AD. Kyoto became the capital from 785-1868. Nara-kõen [and west and southwest Nara, are not possible to see in same day].

Strolling Around Nara Map from Nara Tourist Centre, 9-9 daily.

8 World Heritage sites (1998), including:

Tõdai-ji; Kõfuku-ji, Gango-ji, Yakushi-ji, Toshodai-ji, Kasuga Taisha Shrine and (behind) Kasuga-yama Primeval Forest, and Heijo-kyo Palace remains. Visited 2005.

Access requires much walking, no fun in bad weather.

Its street grid was laid out in C8. The city centre and Nara-kõen are accessible on foot.

Nara-Kõen

Deer park, ceremonial antler-cutting on Sundays and national holidays in October. Visited 2005.

** Kõfuku-ji Temple. WHR. Brought from Kyoto in 710 AD. Only 12 of original 175 buildings remain. 3- storied pagoda, 1143 and 5-storied pagoda, 1426, 2nd tallest in Japan (Tõ-ji in Kyoto only few centimetres taller). 15 & 16. Visited 2005.

Naramachi.

** Gangõ-ji. WHR. Small temple. ‘Not particularly interesting’. 9-5 daily. 50

Naramachi Koushi-no-le. Tue-Sun 9-5. Over-restored, traditional Japanese house. 55

Tõdai-ji

Isui-en Garden. Meiji period (1868-1912). Best garden in Nara. Adjoining Sanshû restaurant sharing the view, for lunch. Not museum. 9. Visited 2005.

*** Tõdai-ji. WHR. The star attraction, via Nandai-mon gate, with fierce Nio guardians, wood carved C13. 8. Visited 2005.

* Daibutsu-den Hall. Largest wooden building in the world. Once 1/3 bigger. Rebuilt 1709. Buddha one of largest bronze figures in the world, cast 746. Oct: 7.30-5.00pm. 6. Visited 2005.

Shoso-in Treasure Repository. Short walk north from Daibutsu-den. Open in Autumn Nigatsu-do Hall &. 2.

Sangatsu-do Hall. Oldest building in this complex. Both short walk east from south-east corner of Daibutsu- den. 3. Visited 2005.

Homotsu-den [Treasure Hall]. 9-4 pm daily. North of entry torii of the shrine. Shinto costumes and equipment. 59

** Kasuga Taisha. WHR. Founded C8, rebuilt every 20 years, till end C19 as Shinto tradition. Lanterns. 9-4 daily. 60. Visited 2005.

16 Shin-Yakushi-ji Temple. Pleasant 15-minute walk from Kasuga Taisha. Founded 747. Only main hall is C8. 62. Visited 2005.

[Other Nara sites:

Southwest temples. Need an afternoon

Horyu-ji temples. Founded 607. Oldest temple in Japan. Rarest treasures. 8-4 daily. Sai-in [West Temple], To-in [East Temple] & Kondo [Hall]. JR Kainsai Line from JL Nara (10 mins) & 72 bus or 20 min walk. WHR. Visited 2005.

** Yakushi-ji. WHR. Established 680AD. 8.30-5 daily. Main Hall: 1976. East Pagoda. Built C7, appears to be 6 storied, but 3 are skillion additions. Behind it is: Tõ-dõ [East Hall], built C7, Indian sculpture influence. JR Narato to Yakushi-ji Higashiguchhi stop, 20 mins.

10 min walk from Yakushi-ji’s northern gate: Toshodai-ji Temple. 8.30-4.30 daily. Established 759 AD].

John separates

Late Saturday, 8 October. Shinkansen train: Kyoto to Hakarta Station, Fukuoka: 3 hours Arrive about 6 pm New metro line to Yoko mother’s

Fukuoka

Saturday, 8 until Saturday, 15 October, 7 nights

Mrs Kiyoko Nishijima, 8-2-7 Higashiirube, Sawara-ku, Fukuoka Tomoko, Yoko’s sister; Masayoshi, her husband and their two children Masatamo, Yoko’s brother; and Rie his wife, who reads and speaks English. Visited 2005.

-New shoes -Do not blow nose at table

 Breakfast time to get an English speaker. Within Fukuoka: 804 2421. Within Japan: 092 804 2421 Outside Japan: +81 92 804 2421 Sunday 9 October: Takaaki Nishijima Memorial Ceremony. [16 October: Anniversary, Yoko’s father’s death]

[SJP departs Fukuoka: 16 October].

Flight: Saturday, 15 October. Fukuoka to Tokyo, Narita. Air Nippon. NH2144. 1 hour 45 minutes Depart: 12.00 noon, Fukuoka, Itazuke Airport, Terminal 2 Arrive: 1.45 pm, Tokyo, Narita Airport, Terminal 2 Boeing 737-500, Economy Class, non-stop

Population: 1,366,000. Fukuoka: lordly castle-town, west bank. Common Hakata, east bank.

Climate: Mild. Typhoons: late summer Fukuoka October. Temperature: 12-21°. Rainfall: 100 mm/month.

Food: rãmen. Chinese style egg noodles in broth.

Fukuoka Now, www.fukuoka-now.com monthly English whats-on guide.

17 Fukuoka on Foot: city walks.

Visitors’ Walking Maps: Hakata, Nakasu, Tenjin and Momochi. English brouchures.

Kinokuniya, 6th floor, Tenjin Core, 10-8pm daily. Best English bookshop. Visited 2005.

Fukuoka Asian Art Museum. Hakarta Riverain. 10-7.30pm, Thur-Tues. Atrium Coffee shop: views. Visited 2005.

Fukuoka City Art Museum. Japanese traditional pieces, Warhol and Dali upstairs. Bus 13 from Tenjin or Subway Ohori-kõen station, then walk 10 mins along pond. Visited 2005.

Hakarta Machiya Furusato-kan. Near Kushida-jinja. Folk Museum with restored merchants’ houses. Visited 2005.

Tocho-ji Temple. Wood Bhudda largest in Japan. Visited 2005.

Shofuku-ji Temple. Once private. Gate from castle. Visited 2005.

Fukuoka-jo [former castle]. Only walls remain in Maizuru-koen.

Architecture:

Hotel Il Palazzo, Aldo Rossi, Architectural Record, May 2000, p 70. Visited 2005.

Nexus World housing project, Rem Koolhaas, 1994. Visited 2005.

ACROS, Fukuoka Prefectural And International Hall. Emilio Ambasz & Associates of Argentina, with Nihon Sekkei and Takenaka Corp. for Daiichi Mutual Life Insurance Co., Mitsui Real Estate and Fukuoka Prefecture. Half of 5 acres of Tenjin Central Park, 15 lush terraces extending into the surrounding landscape and accessible to occupants, 15 stories, 160 ft high atrium, 1 million sq ft, park entrance, 2,000 seat concert hall, amphitheatre, exhibition hall, conference facilities, sports and health facilities, hotel, training, shops, parking, government and commercial offices. Landscaping of waterfall and trees native to the region reduces heating and cooling cost 20 %, terrace stairs are fire exits, giving extra floor space. Top level is an observation platform over the city. Ambasz taught at Princeton and was architecture curator at MOMA. Admires Luis Barragan and Eugene Henard (book on him by Peter Wolf), nineteenth century planner in Paris, who invented the traffic roundabout. Dislikes Brazilia and instant cities, prefers irregular intimate meeting spaces. Organised the New Domestic Landscape Exibition, 1972. Architectural Record, Oct 2000, p 94. Visited 2005.

Fukuoka University Lecture Building A, Kenchiku Design Studio, Yamaroto Hori Architects. 50 classrooms of various sizes, vertically layered, façade/loggia as vertical plaza. The Japan Architect, Winter 1998, pp 40-41.

Leopalace World 21, (LW), 1997-2001. Riccardo Tossani, Australian born, Harvard trained. Leasing office 10,400 sq ft, 2 stories. Tossani designed the leopard logo sculpture, super-graphics, ‘disappearing’ stair and interesting materials, including ‘purplewood’. Inexpensive. Also in Osaka. Interiors, April 2001.

Affordable housing in the Dairi-Nishi neighbourhood of Kitakyushu. Adèle Naudé Santos & Bruce Prescott, architects, San Fransisco. 100 units, Client: Fukuoka Prefectural (State) Government. Affordable housing rarely designed by foreign architects in Japan. Terraces in the sky. Housing regulations require natural light, flexible space, sense of home. Previously Kadota housing in Kitakyushu.

Re-join John

Flight: Saturday, 15 October. Tokyo. Narita to Shanghai. Northwest Airlines NW 25 Depart: 6.30 pm, Tokyo, Narita Airport, Terminal 1. Arrive: 8.45 pm, Shanghai, PVG Airport, (Is this Hongqiao Airport?) 18 kms to hotel 3 hrs 15 min, Boeing 747-400, Thrift Class, non-stop

18 [SJP departs Fukuoka: 16 October].

Shanghai

Astor House (Pujiang Hotel), 15 Huangpu Road (cnr Changzhi Lu, at Garden Bridge), Shanghai, 15-22 October, 7 nights. 3 Star, Twin share, 2 kms to city centre, walking distance to Bund and Nanjing Road shops, 15 mins walk to Centre Henan Road, Line 2 Metro, 5 mins to bus, 4 km to Shanghai Railway station, 60 kms to Pu Dong International Airport. Various delicious restaurants, 220 volts, room service 7 am – 8.30 pm. No mention of laundry.

Population: 13.4 million Climate. October. Temperature: 22-26° Humidity: 80%. Rainfall: 140 mm/month.

Lu=road, Bei=north, nan=south, dong=east, xi=west, zhang=central, huan=ring. Cities=east/west, provinces=north/south. Numbers:

Tess Johnson, The Last Colonies.

Balfour & Shiling, Shanghai. World Cities.

River towns between Shanghai and Suzhow such as Tangli and Zhou Zhuang, show what Ming Shanghai was formerly in form and character.

The Bund

Widened mid 1990s and flood barrier built, subsided below river Nanpu and Yangpu Bridges.

Nanpu Bridge and Yangpu Bridge: world’s fourth-longest and longest cable-stayed suspension bridges. Both have viewing areas for photos.

Friendship Store. 3 1/2 hour Huangpu boat trip. Bund tunnel to Pudong. Walk, p 86.

Broadway Mansions, [former Broadway] 1934. Foreign Correspondents’ Club, 9th floor. HQ Japanese Army, WW II. US Military, lower floors.

Russian Consulate, only consul in original location, where there were several others.

Pujiang Hotel [Astor House, Richard Hotel] first hotel in Shanghai, 1846. Shanghai’s first electric light and telephone. China’s first stock exchange, 1990.

Garden Bridge [Waibaidu Qiao], 1906. Border between International Settlement and Japanese occupation.

Huangpu Park [Huangpu Gongyuan], first park in Shanghai.

Bund Historical Museum [Waitan Lishi Jinianguan], Zhongshan Dong Yilu, 9-4.15. Old Bund photos, chronologically from left.

Former British Consul (1873) 29 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

Green Line Building, radio antenna, 28 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

Jardine Matheson, former opium traders, 27 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

Bank of China, 1937, to be higher than adjacent Cathay Hotel, 23 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

19 Peace Hotel, 1926-29. ‘Once the most luxurious hotel in far East’. Built by Sir Victor Sassoon. Spectacular lobby now half original size, Ballroom has sprung floor. Original entrance is no longer in use. Renamed Peace Hotel in 1956, 19a Zhongshan Dong Yilu, cnr Nanjing Donglu.

Shanghai Bund Arts Centre, Nanjing Donglu, cnr Zhongshan Dong Yilu, Michael Graves.

Palace Hotel, 1906. International Opium Commission here in 1909. 19 Zhongshan Dong Yilu, cnr Nanjing Donglu.

Donghai Café, Donghai Kafeiguan, 145 Nanjing Donglu, near Jianxi Nanlu. Rare inexpensive coffee and beer, cheap set meals downstairs, upstairs more comfortable and more expensive, 17

American Insurance International, first of Bund’s original tenants, who all left in 1949. Former North China Daily News, 17 Zhongshan Dong Yilu. Published 1864-1951.

Customs House, 1925. 13 Zhongshan Dong Yilu. Big Ching bell, modelled on Big Ben.

Pudong Development Bank, former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, 12 Zhongshan Dong Yilu, 1923, when the bank was the 2nd largest in the world. It had been established in HK in 1864 and here in 1865. ‘Finest building east of Suez.’ Entry lions in Pudong Historical Museum. Until 1995, municipal government here, prior to move to Renmin Park. Marvellous lobby: 12 Zodiac signs and 8 great world banking centres.

Fujian Xingye Banking Tower, Michael Graves.

Xinghua Lou, 343 Fuzhou Lu, south of Henan Zhonglu station, old fashioned cheap, restaurant, 25

Three on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

The Shanghai Club (1911) 2 Zhongshan Dong Yilu, former British power stronghold, no Chinese allowed, 33m bar, where businessmen sat according to rank. Now empty.

McBain Building [Asiatic Petroleum], 1915, 1 Zhongshan Dong Yilu.

Meteorological Signal Tower, 49m high (1908). In 1993, moved from opposite the French Consulate, 22m north.

Yan’an Donglu [Avenue Edward VII], former canal, boundary International Settlement and French Concession, Bund became Quai de France. Jinling Lu [Rue de Consulat] site of French Consulate.

Jiushi Corporation, South Bund, cnr Fuxing Road East, Foster & Partners, 1995-2001. 40-stories, including 6-storey wintergarden.

International Settlement (British Concession, south of Suchow Creek and American Concession, north of Suchow Creek). P 89. Yong’an Lu

St Joseph’s Church, 36 Sichuan Nanlu, 1862, walk in through school, 1.

Club de Shanghai, Sichuan Nanlu, 1920, 2.

Former Golden Cage, 93 Sichuan Nanlu, cnr Guangdong Lu, interior: floor, ceilings, windows. Private captive concubine brothel of entrepreneur, 3.

Sichuan Nanlu, alley 126; brick shikumen [gatehouse].

Xinhua Bookstore offices, 133 Sichuan Nanlu, old sign.

Sichuan Nanlu, cnr 44 Fuzhou Lu, east to Tudor Building, former Calbeck Macgregor & Co, wine agents for Martini & Rossi, Johnny Walker, 1930s, 4. Return:

20 Fuzhou Lu, cnr Jianxi Nanlu, Hamilton House, (south), built for David Sassoon c1934, as apartments, rooftop terraced gardens, 5.

Metropole Hotel (Xincheng Fandian), 180 Jianxi Zhonglu, (north) c1934, glamourous in 1930s, some Deco interior and rooftop terraced gardens, 6.

Former Municipal Council Building, Fuzhou Lu, squat building on northwest corner, all block now government, 7.

Peoples Court, former American Club, 209 Fuzhou Lu, 1924, American Georgian, bricks imported from USA, 8. West from here formerly brothels, casinos, opium dens. Return to Metropole Hotel, north:

Bank of Communications, 200 Jianxi Nanlu, marble interior.

Former Trinity Cathedral, [‘Red Temple’, Hong Miao], Hanku Lu, northwest cnr Jianxi Nanlu, red brick, 1869, tall steeple demolished, 10. East:

Guandong Development Bank, former Joint Savings Society Bank, Hanku Lu, cnr Sichuan Lu, Ladislaus Hudec, architect (b1893, arrived Shanghai 1918, d1958), 11. Small exhibition on him in Park Hotel Lobby.

‘1908’ Building, opposite.

Former Continental Bank, Bank of East Asia, Jiujiang Lu, former banking street, southwest cnr Sichuan Lu, 12. North:

Zhongyang Market, Sichuan Lu, on left, 13

Pale green and blue brick buldings, Sichuan Lu, cnr Nanjing Donglu. North:

Sichuan Lu, turn left into Dianchu Lu, at Art Deco Bank. North, past old red brick buildings.

Electric Power Co, 14 and Everbright Bank, 15, Jianxi Nanlu, cnr Beijing Donglu. East:

190 Beijing Donglu, balconies.

Friendship Store. Toilets on 2nd floor. Turn north:

Yuanminggyuan Lu, 16-20. One of most intact streets in Shanghai. Hotel.

Nanjing Lu, shopping, p143

1937: ‘one of seven most interesting streets in the world’. Mostly pedestrianised, 1999. eastern less interesting, some facades above ground floor, especially cnr Sichuan Nanlu. Once many specialist shops, few remain.

Shanghai Electric Power, 181 Nanjing Donglu, cnr Jiangxi Nanlu, Art Deco, 1.

*Duoyunxuan, 422 Nanjing Donglu, calligraphy and artist supplies, 1900, 2.

*Shaowansheng, 414 Nanjing Donglu, sweets and cured meats from Shanghai, Shaoxing and Ningbo.

Former Sincere, first department store on Nanjing Lu and first to fix prices (1917, bombed 1937), 3.

Many great 1930s department stores.

The Great World (Dà Shìjìe; : Da Syga) is an amusement arcade and entertainment complex located in Shanghai, China. Built in 1917 on the corner of Avenue Edward VII (now Yan'an Road) and Yu Ya Ching Road (now Middle Xizang Road). Location?

21

The Great World.

22

The Great World.

Hualian Commercial Building, former Wing On, 635 Nanjing Donglu (1918), 4. New store at western Nanjing Lu.

No 1 Provisions Store, 720 Nanjing Donglu, formerly Sun Sun Store (1926), 5.

23 No 1 Department Store, 800 Nanjing Donglu, formerly Sun Company, (1936), first with escalator (30 years before Hong Kong), always largest store in China, as is current Pudong store, 6.

New World Store, opened as amusement centre (1915).

Mu’en Church, formerly Moore Memorial Church, cnr Xizang Lu, cnr Jiujiang Lu 7. Name change to Nanjing Xilu (Bubbling Well Road).

Renmin Square (Guangchang) and Renmin Park (Gongyuan) on site of former racecourse.

Sianjiao Park.

Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, 100 Remin Dadao, Chenshi Guihua Zhanshiguan. 9-4 Wed- Sun. P 66. Cheaper combined ticket.

Mid-lake Pavilion Teahouse. 6- 9.30

Pacific Hotel, former China United Apartment Building, entrance lobby, 8.

Park Hotel, 170 Nanjing Xilu, former bank, (1934), 22 floors, highest building in Far East in 1930s, entrance lobby, top floor restaurant roof slides open.

Grand Theatre, best theatre in Shanghai in (1933). Had 2,000 sofa seats with headphones for translation, 10.

Shanghai Art Museum, 325 Nanjing Xilu. Shanghai Meishuguan. 9-5. Last entry 4 pm. P 63. Cheaper combined ticket. Former 1933 racing club grandstand and clubrooms. Balustrade, chandeliers. No photos. 2nd floor café.

Shanghai Museum, 201 Remin Dadao, Shanghai Bowuguan 9-5. Metro. Last entry 4 pm. Bronzes. P 64. Cheaper combined ticket.

China Art Palace (formerly, China Pavillion at the 2010 Expo), Chinese modern art, in 64,000 m2 of exhibition space, 27 halls. There are more than 1,400 art works. If you see 4 pieces in 1 minute, you will need at least 5 hours for a visit. Free. 9–5 (last entry: 4, closed Monday), 161 Shangnan Road, Pudong. Subway line 8, Yaohua Road Station.2

China Art Palace.

Power Station of Art (former factory, former Urban Best Practices Area in Expo), first state museum of

2 www.chinahighlights.com/shanghai/attraction/china-art-palace.htm

24 contemporary art. Lane 20, Huayuangang Lu, Near Miaojiang Lu, Huangpu district Tel: 3127 8535. Metro station: Xizang Nan Lu.

Power Station of Art.

Old Town

Circular shape reflects 5 km walls demolished 1912. Central Fangbang Zhonglu was canal through centre from small harbour at Dongpu Gate. Chamber pots, few flush toilets. Backstreets reveal old Chinese urban life: YuYuan to Dongtai Lu Antique Market. P 95

Yuyuan [Yu Garden]) Gardens, Bazaar, Teahouse. Yuyuan Shangsha. [Northeast Old City]. 8.30-5 pm. Fee. 1559, 1842. Ming garden design. Taxi. Very crowded at weekends. P 67.

Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant [Nanxiang Mantoudian], 378 Fuyou Lu, Yuyuan Bazaar. Too busy, weekends. P 101.

Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse. 6 am-9.30 pm. Very famous in China. Upstairs: Jasmine and Longjing, includes snacks and free music Fri-Sun at 6.30 and Mon 2-5 pm. Early for window seat. Zig-zag causeway thwarts evil spirits.

Temple of the Town Gods: in southeast corner, roof carvings.

Leave Yuyuan Bazaar, southeast corner, east along Old Street, both recreated past. [Lao Jie, Fangbang Zhonglu, former canal], old stage. 1.

Traditional inns, sell food and tubes of warmed huangjiu [Shaoxing rice wine] especially Shenyonghe Inn, Fang Bang Zhonglu, 2

Alleys near light blue clinic, eg: Anren Jie, or Danfeng Jie. North a block to:

Dajing Lu [former opium dens] produce market. At west end:

Dajingge, 3, 1815. Gateway, only surviving section of city wall. Shops sell oil and alcohol in traditional jars. South, then west:

Dongtai Lu antique Market, 4. Shanghai’s most interesting, and on east side, animal market, 5.

25 Remin Lu, south to route of city wall.

Wenmiao Lu, west to Baiyun [White Cloud] Taoist Temple, Xilinhou Lu, 1873. Taoist music played by priests. 6.

Confucian Temple [Wen Miao]. 215 Wenmiao Lu. 9-5. 1300, mostly 1997. Kuixing Pavilion was state Library until 1931. Book Market, especially Sundays. Minglung Hall, Small Swords Society. Streets encircling it, views.

Kongyiji Jiujia, traditional inn, food tea, Shaoxing wine until 10 pm, 8. Return: Menghua Jie, Zhuangjia Jie and Xicangqiao Jie, to HenanNanlu.

Xiataoyuan Mosque, 52 Xiataoyuan Lu, Shanghai’s main centre of Islam, built 1917. 9

Jewish Quarter, p 79.

Ohel Moishe Synagogue [Moxi Huitang], 62 Changyang Lu. M-F 9-4.30.

Broadway Theatre [Bailaohui Restaurant], 49 Huoshan Lu.

French Concession

P 92-94. No 1 Metro Line. Most colourful past. Most graceful part of Shanghai. Huangpi Lu Metro station Taicang Lu

Fuxing Park. 6am -6 pm. Laid out by the French in 1909.

St Nicholas Church, 3. 1933 [Ashanti Dome Restaurant]

Song Qingling [wife of Dr Sun Yat Sen] former Residence. 1843 Huaihai Zhonglu. Greek shipping magnate.1920s. 9-5. P 68.

Sun Yatsen’s former Residence, 7 Xianshan Lu [Rue Moliére] 1918-24 and wife of Dr Sun Yat Sen until 1937. Furnished as it was then. 4

Kommune Café, The Yard, Taikang Lu Art Centre [Taiking Lu Yishu Zhongxi], Lane 210, Taikang Lu. Coffee and light lunch.

Old China Hand Reading Room, 27 Shoaxing Lu. www.han-yuan.com Interesting exhibitions. Shoaxing Lu has publishers, art galleries.

Xintiandi, cnr Taicang Lu & Madang Lu. Shanghai’s most stylish bars, restaurants, shops.

Shikumen Open House. 10-10. depicts life in a traditional 10 room Shanghai shikumen. P 72.

Zhou Enlai’s former Residence [Ji Zhou Gongguan], 5.

Ruijin Guest House. Former Morris Estate. Mohowk Morris, founder North China Daily News. *Face Bar, 18 Ruijin Erlu: expensive, but very beautiful. www.face-shanghai.com 7, to:

Maoming Nanlu [former Rue Cardinal Mercier] Shanghai’s premier bar strip.

Flower Market, site of Canindrome dog track, 1928, 8.

Shanghai Arts & Crafts Museum, Fenyang Lu [former Route Pichon] 1905, later Chen Yi residence, 9.

Shanghai Ear Nose & Throat Hospital [former Jewish Hospital], 10

Chiang Kaishek Residence [later of Jiang Qing, Madame Mao], 9 Dongping Lu.

26 Hengshan Lu [former Avenue Petain], premier foreign restaurants.

Community Church, 53 Hengshan Lu. Built 1924 as largest Christian church in Shanghai. 13

Opposite: former American School.

Shaanxi Nanlu Metro Station

Garden Hotel [former French Club: Cercle Sportif Français] 1926. Eastern entrance, staircase, 2nd floor columns with nude reliefs, ballroom with stained glass ceiling, former Deco pool now Oasis Café, 3rd floor terrace views, 1

Jinjiang Hotel, 2, 59 Maoming Nanlu, includes [Georgian] Cathay Building, cheaper Ji Nan Building and the lavish [southernmost] Grosvenor Villa, 1930s apartments, 3. North to:

Lyceum Theatre, Changle Lu, built 1931 [former British Amateur Dramatic Club] 4. One block east:

Jinjiang Tower 41st floor views.

Henshan Moller Villa, [former Moller House], 30 Chaanxii Lu [former Avenue Roi Albert], 1938. Fantastic Swedish ‘Scandinavian gothic’ design. Wood panelled interior. Eric Moller owned shipping line. 5. South, west, south to:

Othodox Russian Church, Xiangyang Beilu, cnr Xinle Lu, 7.

Grape Restaurant, next door, 55 Xinle Lu, lunch. Down

Huai Zhonglu [former Avenue Joffre], cnr Donghu Lu, former house of gangster Du Yuesheng, Deco gates. Former opium warehouse and part US Consulate, 8

Up Fumin Lu, to Julu Lu, Shanghai’s late night bars. Right into:

Former residence of Cai Yuanpei, 16 Lane no 303, Changsu Lu, Early C20 intellectual, educator, reformer. Lane has many beautiful houses, now opposite the Hilton. 10.

Eddy’s Bar, 1877 Huai Zhonglu. cnr Yuqing Lu, gay-friendly. Far south-west French Concession. 95

Pudong, p18.

Designed: Richard Rogers (1990, when it was marsh and pig farms), 522 sq km, from Bund to East China Sea. 1.5 times larger than urban Shanghai itself. By end 1999, $30 billion contractually invested. Liujiazui financial district, Waigaoqiao (north-east) tax-free foreign trade zone, Zhangjiang hi-tech zone, and Jinqiao export and processing zone (GM, Coca Cola, Kodak, etc). Cross by ferry.

8-lane Century Avenue modelled on Champs Elysée.

Jinmao Tower. 88 stories. Top third is Grand Hyett (coffee and free view at 87th floor). ‘Shanghai’s most spectacular and beautiful building’. Best at dusk. Closes 9pm.

Liujiazui Development Exhibition Hall, former residence of rich merchant (1914-17). Can be viewed from outside.

Shanghai History Museum, Shanghai Shi Lishiu Bowuguan, basement of Oriental Pearl Tower, 8.30am- 9pm.

Other hi-tech zone: Caohejing in south Puxi. Other trade-zones: Minhang (south) and Songjiang (north).

27 Return to Melbourne

Flight: 23 October, Shanghai to Beijing. China Eastern Airlines MU5107 Depart: Shanghai Pu Dong International Airport, 11.00 am Arrive: Beijing Capital Airport, 1.00 pm 2 hours, Airbus A321, Economy, Non-stop

Flight: 23 October, Beijing to Hanoi. Vietnam Airlines VN901 Depart: Beijing Capital Airport, 3.45 pm Arrive: Hanoi Noibai Airport, 6.20 pm 3 hours 35 mins, Airbus A321, Economy, Non-stop Stay in unknown hotel in Hanoi

Flight: 24 October, Hanoi to Tullamarine. Vietnam Airlines VN781 Depart: Hanoi Noibai Airport, 5.00 pm, Arrive: Tullamarine Airport, 8.35 am, 25 October 12 hours 35 mins, Boeing 777, Economy, one stop

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