The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

No. 81 June - July 1999 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - KASK No. 81 June - July 1999 KASK KASK BADGES SEA KAYAKING KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea Canterbury paddler Rod Banks pro- Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of duced a badge of a paddler and sea NETWORK New Zealand sea kayakers, has the kayak from solid sterling silver, with CONTACT objectives of: KASK NZ engraved. The badge can 1. promoting and encouraging the be permanently or termporarily af- ADDRESSES sport of sea kayaking fixed to hats T shirts, ties, evening 2. promoting safety standards gowns or dress suits but not dry suits. Auckland Sea Kayak Network 3. developing techniques & And the badge is appealing to the eye. Vincent Maire equipment Size is 23mm long by 11mm high. 7 Motuora Rd, Manly 4. dealing with issues of coastal Whangaparoa, 1463 access and protection Price is $15 plus $1 P+P, and avail- Ph: (09) 424 2293 5. organizing an annual sea kayak able from the KASK Secretary, Helen Fax: (09) 424 0385 forum Woodward. email: [email protected] 6. publishing a bimonthly webpage: nzkayak.co.nz newsletter. LRB2 - KASK Canterbury Sea Kayak Network The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is pub- HANDBOOK 2nd. Ed. Andy & Deirdre Sheppard lished bimonthly as the official news- Ph: (03) 342 7929 letter of the Kiwi Association of Sea For a copy of this mother of all sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. kayaking handbooks, contact KASK Secretary Helen Woodward: Sea Kayak Operators Assoc. of NZ Bronwyn Duff, Admin. Officer Articles, trips reports, book reviews, 82 Hutcheson St. Blenheim PO Box 255 equipment reviews, new techniques, Picton letter to the editor, and moments when email: [email protected] COST: Ph: (03) 573 6505 the word 'Bugger!' was said singu- Fax: (03) 573 8827 larly or often {referred to by some as New members: gratis incidents} are sought to enliven the Existing members: $10 + $1 p&p Non-members: $18 + $1 p&p Bay of Plenty Sea Kayak Network pages of the newsletter. Dusty Waddell, Ph: (07) 572 4419 Jean Kirkham, Ph: (07) 552 5982 Send in a plain brown envelope, or via Make cheques out to KASK (NZ)Inc Trade enquiries also to Helen. cybermail to: Wellington Sea Kayak Network Editor: P Caffyn, Beverley Burnett RD 1, THE LRB2, or the Little Red Book 2nd. Edition, is a mammoth compila- Cellphone: (025) 249 4116 Runanga. email: [email protected] West Coast .N.Z. tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in New Zealand, by many of the most Web site: http://home.clear.net.nz/ Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 pages/wellseak E Mail address: [email protected] experienced paddlers in the Universe. Following a brief introduction, the handbook is divided into six sections: Auckland Canoe Club KASK Subscriptions are: PO Box 3523, Auckland. $20.00 per annum & cheques - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment -Techniques & Equipment Newsletter Editor: Julia Thorn should be made out to: Ph: 09 575 3099 K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & sent to the - The Elements - Trips and Expeditions KASK Secretary: Ruahine Whitewater Club Helen Woodward, - Places to Go - Resources 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. 82 Hutcheson St. Ph: 06 326 8667 Blenheim Fax: 06 326 8472 Ph: (03) 578 5429. Each section contains up to nine sepa- email: [email protected] rate chapters. The Resources section, for example has chapters on: ROTORUA CONTACT - guide to managing a sea kayak Graeme Muir Correspondence to the Secretary: 36 Buchanan Pl, Rotorua Helen Woodward, symposium - Paddling Literature Ph / Fax: 07 3477106 82 Hutcheson St. email: [email protected] Blenheim - Author profiles - Guides and Rental Operators Ph: (03) 578 5429. NEW PLYMOUTH CONTACT email: [email protected] - Network Addresses - Sea Kayaks in NZ listing Mark Gardner 153 Seaview Rd, New Plymouth Ph/Fax: (06) 753 9881

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

email: INDEX EDITORIAL [email protected] This newsletter is arriving early, and EDITORIAL number 82 will be late due to a CHATHAM ISLANDS S.O.P.M., or serious overseas pad- Max Grant and David Herrington TECHNICAL dling mission. Conrad Edwards and I pulled off a great first circumnaviga- Leaving Folding Kayaks Assembled are heading back to Greenland for a tion in Antipodean waters with their by Ralp Diaz p. 4 two month mission north of the Arctic well planned and researched mission Circle. However this is no reason not around the Chathams. Initial reaction More of Paddle Float Rescues to be penning an article for the n/l, from the locals towards their mission by Nick Woods p. 6 during the long winter nights. was rather sceptical, but day by day incident free paddling led to a realiza- TRIP REPORTS REVAMP OF N/L FORMAT tion by the locals that the dynamic duo Cape Reinga The newsletter format is being im- were not rank beginners, but wise and by Etienne de Beer p. 7 proved, to turn the newsletter into experienced paddlers. This led to more or a journal. KASK has plenty marvellous hospitality, or as Dave D’Urville Island of $ in kitty, and the editor wants to notes in his trip report, 'royal treat- by Giselle Groves p. 9 see some of this filthy lucre spent for ment'. Big mobs of congratulations to the edification of paddlers. I am in- David and Max for their exciting mis- Chathams 1999 clined also to look at a change to the sion around the Chathams. by David Herrington p.14 name of the newsletter. The ‘Sea Ca- noeist’ title is a legacy of the pommy LRB2 BOOK REVIEWS influence on Antipodean paddling. Since its publication, 450 of the sec- 'Dance with Waves’ And the poms still don’t know the ond edition of the KASK Handbook reviewer John Kirk-Anderson p.11 difference between a kayak and a ca- have been sold, and currently 100 ' noe. There was a request several years copies are in stock with el Presidente The Shape of the Canoe' ago from a Kiwi paddler to change the Phil. The number sold is encourag- reviewer: Glyn Dickons p.17 title, but in deference to Graham Egarr ing, but there are still several major who originally set the n/l in motion, I retailers who are not stocking the 'Extreme Sea Kayaking' stuck with the ‘Sea Canoeist’ title. LRB2. Please do your bit for sea reviewer John Kirk-Anderson p.18 My suggestions for a new title are: kayaking education and give retailers ‘KASK Journal’ a big bollocking if they are not cur- THE 'BUGGER!' FILE ‘Kiwi Sea Kayak Journal’ rently stocking this mother of all hand- Report Form ‘Kiwi Sea Kayaker’ books. by Hugh & Biddy Canard p.12 ‘Sea Kayaking Down Under’ ‘Antipodean Sea Kayaking’ LRB3 The Castor Bay 'Bugger!' Report Planning for the third edition is under- by Vincent Maire p.12 How about extracting the digit and way. Hugh Canard has compiled two sending the editor a suggestion(s) for meaty chapters on the top of the South Viva La France a new title for the KASK newsletter. Island, including D'Urville Island and by Dave Watson p.13 Abel Tasman National Park. Dead- 2000 KASK FORUM line for copy for the LRB3 is end of HUMOUR The response from KASK readers for September 1999. Mark Hutson is Problem Solving p.13 input into the Christchurch Forum, long overdue for supplying his chap- requested with the last n/l, has been ter of gourmet kayak cookery! If you The New York Attitude p.13 PATHETIC!. Three responses to date, see a need for changes to any of the including one from the editor. This is material in the LRB2, or wish to con- PRESIDENT'S REPORT your chance to request practical ses- tribute a chapter or add relevant infor- fromPhil Handford p.19 sions, theory sessions, slide shows, or mation to existing chapters, please proclaim your availability for lectur- send to the editor. ing, slide showing or whatever. New Zealand has the best paddlers in the THE 'BUGGER!' FILE Hugh Canard has an article on the Cover photo: entire universe but unfortunately most of them do not boast about their skills. merits in spending time and effort in by Conrad Edwards. The editor is If there is a topic you would like to compiling reports on 'Bugger!' mo- puzzled by the apparition of a KASK learn more about during the 2000 ments. Lessons learned for the next logo in the terminal face of a Prince KASK Forum, please get in touch time, arising from disasters, can only William Sound glacier. Obviously with: John Kirk-Anderson help raise the awareness of skills re- a hallucination brought on by over- PO Box 409 quired for all paddlers. indulgence in Conrad's strict pasta Christchurch diet.

3 No. 81 June - July 1999

fit together with close tolerances. Also, lubricate the sliders on the K- This approach makes for very strong Light that connect the chine and gun- TECHNICAL construction and an ability to absorb wale aluminium tubes. The exten- punishment. But it is also a formula sion bars that form the keel of the K- for possible trouble in storage and Light and the keel, chine and gun- STORAGE OF FOLDING long term assembly. Frames have wale bars on the K-1 and Khatsalano numerous places where connections should also get a good dose of lubri- KAYAKS re male/female, i.e. ends of alu- cant. Lubrication not only assures minium fit into each other. Sliders in parts will slide better. It also helps Although it is rare to see an assem- one model connect butting alu- prevent corrosion and keeps the sur- bled folding kayak at New Zealand minium tubes. In several models, the faces clean. sea kayak forums and symposiums, frame halves extend inside the skin they are out there in garages, base- via the movement of tubes nestled Let air out of the sponsons. This has ments and boatsheds. Bevan Walker one in the other that are then locked nothing to do with reducing stress on has three, a German folboat, an an- in place with snap-up buttons. the hull stitching as some people cient Klepper and a Feathercraft dou- surmise. Partly deflating the spon- ble. For those who already possess a The rule-of-thumb in keeping a sons reduces the amount of contortion folding boat, and for those who pro- Feathercraft assembled is “Sure, but on the sliders on the K-Light and the pose to buy one, this article comes don’t do it for too long.” Generally extension bars of the other models. from the editor of ‘Folding Kayaker’ that means around three months or This sideways pressure is often the magazine. so, which isn’t bad. That period reason why parts get stuck together. would take up a good part of the Leaving Folding Kayaks paddling season in temperate cli- Check the sliders on an stored Assembled mates. assembled K-Light every other time by Ralph Diaz you take it for a paddle trip. To do so, (reprinted from ‘Folding What happens if you leave a Feather- let air out of the sponsons and then craft assembled “too long?” It may check to see if the sliders will rotate Kayaker’, Jan/Feb 1999 seize up on you. Frame parts can get freely. Also, every so often, without Vol. 9 No.1) gummed up with dirt and salt. I have actually taking the frame apart, push I recently got a note from Mike Zack run across a number of K-Lights, for in the snap button on the keel bar to of Boston MA who asked: ‘I am example, that were seized up be- see if it depresses and that the two interested in the best way to store a cause owners had left them assem- nestling keel parts slide freely. Don’t folding kayak. For example, can I bled for a year. They made the boat forget to extend it again. leave it assembled all winter? Will in June, then did not knock it down in storage at sub-zero temperatures do September and left it assembled all If you can, store the boat upside harm? How long can one be left winter. And it is not just private down. This allows dirt and to fall to assembled? What’s a good lubrica- owners who get caught. Sometimes the underside of the deck and away tion schedule for metal parts?’ it has happened to shops that have from the keelbar. Stored this way, kept a demo model assembled for too the inside get better, warm air circu- The answer to all such questions long. They had to chisel and hack- lation and the keel bar is under less regarding storing and keeping fold- saw some parts in order to knock it tension that might make it seize up; ing kayaks assembled is simple: “It down. this also partly relieves pressure on depends!” I have talked to hundreds the chine and gunwale bar exten- of people who have left a variety of You do have some less drastic rem- sions. If in the process your deck models assembled under different edies for dealing with a stuck frame bars stick you have less of a problem conditions and time spans. I’ve left (Folding Kayaker Nov/Dec 1994, than if the keel or chine bars seize. It numerous models assembled myself May/June 1997, July/ Aug 1997). is much harder to deal with a stuck for long periods. The storage ques- But it better to take some precautions keel bar than deck bar. You can at tion involves several factors includ- when planning to keep a Feathercraft least get frame halves separated and ing design, frame material and corro- assembled for a long time. out of the hull. You then can work on sion. Just how long you can leave a the stuck deck bar outside the skin. folding kayak assembled varies by Lubricate with either SuperLube (a manufacturer and even among mod- tube of this comes with the boat) or Use a seasock when you paddle. This els. Here is a rundown of the major Boeshield T-9. In both instances, the reduces the amount of grit that can makes. liquid or paste forms of these lubri- gum up aluminium connections. cants is preferred over aerosol ver- Rinse out the inside of a Feathercraft FEATHERCRAFTS sions. The liquid or paste kind has that is being left assembled any Good features sometimes have their proven to adhere better. Lubricate chance you get. You don’t have to do downside and that is true of all male/female connections, after it every time you are near the boat. Feathercrafts. Feathercraft frames making certain to wipe off any grit. Just every so often.

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Let me start with some advice from engaged with block type structures made of wood and connect to each the horse’s mouth, Doug Simpson, of the other frame half and pressed other with metal ends. But the toler- co-owner and co-founder of Feather- down or to the sides. This form of ances are loose and are at the end of craft as well as chief designer of all open connection is highly unlikely to solid pieces of wood through which the models since Day One. Doug has ever get stuck no matter how long the no water and dirt can flow to foul up a simple, non-draconian approach to boat is left assembled. It seldom can the male/female connections. Metal beginning to unstuck a seized frame be affected by corrosion or gum up. sliders are used in the chine rods in inside the skin. the centre of the boat but no snap Folbot does use sliders at the chine buttons and under minimal tension. What Doug suggests is to fill the tubes similar to what you see in the If a Klepper is left assembled for kayak half way with fresh water and Feathercraft K-Light. But the sliders several years, that slider might get a swish it around inside by rocking the are a looser fit. Conceivably a Folbot bit stuck. But it will most definitely boat side to side. Empty and repeat slider can seize but is quite likely to respond to banging and WD-40. And, one or two more times. Now, leave free up if banged with a mallet or in a worse case scenario, you could an inch or two of fresh water inside shot full of WD40 or similar prod- cut the wood at the joining part with the hull and take the boat for a pad- ucts. The sliders do incorporate a a wood chisel, which is much easier dle. If the seas are slightly choppy all snap button that pops through a hole. than cutting through aluminium. the better. The objective is to get the But if this gets stuck it is easy enough frame to flex a lot as it moves through to free up with WD 40 or similars. Kleppers do have aluminium fittings the swells. That up and down and connecting long pieces to the sideways motion, combined with the If you want to leave a Folbot assem- crossribs. These can corrode or clog fresh water sloshing around inside bled for extensive periods here is up a bit but never enough to keep the the boat, should work to loosen up what you should do (in addition to fitting from opening and prevent tak- stuck parts. This will allow some letting some air out of the sponsons): ing the boat apart. Kleppers have fresh water to filter into the frame been left together for years and then part contact areas to soak grit and - Lubricate all the male/female con- successfully taken apart without a sand and make these less concrete- nections. While the tolerances are problem with these fittings. Klep- like. Once back on land, empty the fairly loose, lubing these parts with pers also uses horseshoe and block boat and give it a vigorous shaking. the same lubricants as suggested ear- mechanisms to extend the frame Then quickly get to disassembly lier will prolong the period you can halves, similar to what you see in steps. Doug reports that this simple safely leave a Folbot together. If Folbots. Such means of stretching method works a good deal of the time these tubes do stick, it would be the frame halves inside the skin can- when frames have seemed hopelessly within the frame halves and would not ever freeze up. seized up inside the hull. not prevent taking the boat apart in the middle and getting the frame half While you can safely leave Kleppers FOLBOTS out. With frame halves separated assembled for years with only a rare Folbot, like Feathercraft, uses alu- and outside the skin, you would be chance of anything getting mildly minium frame parts for all its long able to deal with any stuck male/ stuck, there are precautions you pieces. However, the tolerances are female connection. should take in storing a Klepper as- more generous. Moreover, the sembled: method of extending frame halves - Pay special attention to the chine within the skin relies on a mecha- sliders. Heavily lube the connection - Keep the boat as dry as possible. nism that is virtually seize-free. So, and the snap buttons. While the boat Having the deck constantly getting as a generalization, you can be some- is in storage assembled, every so wet will tend to shrink it and you may what less cautious in keeping a Folbot often, tap on the sliders with a mallet have problems later when assem- assembled for longer periods than and also see if they can turn a bit. bling the boat again. you can a Feathercraft. You would be pretty safe in leaving a Folbot - As with Feathercrafts, do wash the - Keep water out of the boat. If the assembled over a winter, for exam- inside with fresh water every so of- wooden parts are left sitting in bilge ple. But there are some areas that ten. You may also want to store the water while in storage, you can get you should watch and take precau- boat upside down to make certain some deterioration of the wood. It tions with. that grit does ,not get into the chine may blacken in spots and screws may sliders. come loose where wood rots around The way a Folbot’s frame halves are them. Also bilge water may warp the extended inside the hull is via a horse- KLEPPERS bow and stern end pieces. This will shoe and block mechanism. One The assembly of Kleppers uses vir- not happen in ordinary use, but it will frame half of the Folbot has a horse- tually no metal parts that could get if the parts are resting in bilge water for shoe looking part at the keel, and stuck together. The only place you long periods of storage. gunwales. To extend the frame these will see male/female connections is horseshoes on one half frame are in the chine rods. These rods are

5 No. 81 June - July 1999

- Let air out of the sponsons. This Postscript lease of the paddle after the boat is will allow air to get in under them I often hear hardshellers say that they bailed and spray deck secured. and prevent the canvas from holding don’t like folding kayaks since you Now to the main reason for writing - water and remaining damp. Partly have to assemble them all of the while running a series of introduc- deflated sponsons will also reduce time. As you can see, you really tory sea kayak courses, we have been any tendency of wet wooden parts to don’t have to. If you have a place to surprised by the number of paddlers warp. store one assembled, by all means, who have difficulty performing the leave it that way. Treat the boat like assisted TX rescue. This usually oc- - You need not store it upside down. a hardshell in terms of putting it on a curs when there are large weight/ storage rack and transporting it via strength disparities between rescuer NAUTIRAIDS an ordinary roofrack. None of this and rescuee. Guides often use a Nautiraids are blessed with all open will hurt an assembled folding kayak. looped strap as a stirrup to get heavy fittings and the company proudly But do follow the above precautions. paddlers onto a deck but by far the advertises this in its literature. You None are particularly vexing or diffi- easiest method for the novice is to have no where in any Nautiraid where cult. deploy the paddle float. any part is fully enclosed or locked within another. Where parts do meet And, unlike a hardsheller, you can The swimmer if able, secures the the fitting or connection is an open knock the boat down if you wish to float to the paddle and inflates it one. So it cannot get stuck together. travel. Or if in any adverse condi- while the rescuer slides the other Still you can have some problems tions that favour not paddling back to paddle end under the straps. The with a stored away Nautiraid. While where you started, knock the kayak swimmer then hauls themselves onto you can leave one assembled for down and transport by cab or private the rear deck, facing aft, using the years as you can a Klepper, there are car, something you may find hard to paddle shaft as a leg up. One of the places to exercise a bit of caution: do with a hardshell! main advantages of the paddle float rescue is the way the boat tilts as the - Beef up some of the connections. paddle float is depressed by the pad- Unlike in the case of Kleppers and TECHNICAL dler’s leg. The rescuer can also help Feathercrafts, the long pieces of a by hauling the swimmer in, as they Nautiraid do not snap snugly into are not required to brace across the place on the crossribs. Rather they More of Paddle Float cockpit. This operation should be sit in notches. For ordinary day trip able to be performed in around three or even weekend camping trips, this Rescues minutes if all has been set up cor- arrangement is okay as it can’t cause by Nick Woods rectly. any problem. However, if you leave the boat assembled for long periods While endorsing Nigel Foster’s pro- In summary the main point is that the and are using it, it is possible that one motion of the paddle float for unas- paddle float, while not a substitute or more of the wooden long rod pieces sisted rescue, there are a few areas he for learning to roll, should be a part will slip out of the open notches of doesn’t cover. First a couple of points of any group trip, and if carried by the crossribs in which they rest. If on the floats themselves. The most solo paddlers, we wouldn’t read con- left that way, the wooden rods can effective design of the four we’ve fessions of ‘No self rescue skills’ on then warp out of shape. So, if plan- trialed is a triple layer (600mm x p.13 of the Feb/March newsletter ning to leave a Nautiraid assembled 400mm) consisting of a sealed enve- (No. 79). for a season or longer, use plastic lope for air retention and an outer wire ties at these connection points layer which picks up water ballast - a Besides where else can you buy in- in order to make certain nothing slips real plus in rough conditions. surance for around $50 that also out of place. serves as impromptu pillow, clothes The kayak should be fitted with two storage, map container, dan buoy, - Watch for swelling of the ends of fore and aft low stretch straps, on fender, water wing, life raft for house- long pieces where they lie in the open either side of the deck, directly behold pet etc. channel hinges. The subassemblies hind the cockpit. These straps secure have several places where wooden the paddle in outrigger fashion, pre- Nick Woods ends nestle into open metal channels venting the ‘scissor’ action described Cable Bay Kayaks. at the chine, gunwale and even the in the article by Foster. keel and top bars. If the wood swells, EDITOR’S NOTE: Quality Kay- it may take a bit of doing to release The float is best stored rolled up aks boats are equipped with an the wood from the channel. If you behind the seat and tethered by a excellent strap system on the aft decide to varnish in these areas be 2mm nylon lashing. A quick release deck, designed for the paddle float extra careful as you don’t want to clip on one strap greatly assists re- rescue. Quick release toggles allow build up too much of a varnish layer the paddle to be removed when the that would stick in the open channel. paddler is seated in the cockpit.

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

forward on a swell, but the tidal drank without any ill effects. The TRIP REPORTS stream kept on pushing us back. Ray’s rising wind whipped up a sandstorm Cape Reinga rudder cable came adrift - bad timing that sandblasted our arms and legs on by Etienne de Beer for a gear failure. Given the sea con- the way back to camp. By late after- ditions it was clear that attempting to noon strong gusts of wind were buf- The week before Christmas last year turn around would pose some risk, feting the tent and had ripped out a Ray Clark and I went up north to do and since we knew that the tidal peg anchoring the vestibule of my some paddling in the Cape Reinga stream would inevitably weaken and tent. It was also raining. We gath- region. We had five days at our ultimately reverse after high tide, we ered some heavy boulders to pack on disposal, and planned to start off at resolved to keep paddling. I was top of the tent pegs, and strengthened Tapotupotu Bay, paddle around Cape getting pretty tired (and increasingly our defences with guy ropes. During Reinga to the top of 90 mile beach, worried), by the time we eventually the evening violent gusts of wind and then back around North Cape started making progress again as the shook the tent almost continuously, into the Parengarenga Harbour and tidal stream weakened. We still had and it seemed only a matter of time up to Waitiki landing. Before leav- to work hard to reach the beach at before something would give way. ing home the weather forecast alerted Cape Maria van Diemen, where we We prepared for the imminent crisis us to the presence of a low pressure landed in dumping surf after some by packing all our dry gear into system somewhere in the region of 3.5 hours on the water. Ray lost his drybags, and keeping my wet weather Darwin, which might be heading our beloved hat and a pair of sunglasses gear and torches handy. The noise of way, but the predictions were suffi- to the surf. wind, water and sand being driven ciently vague not to discourage us against the tent, and the thundering from venturing up north. We trav- At first glance C.M.v.D seemed an surf made sleeping impossible. elled up with two cars, leaving the inhospitable place. The fierce mid- one at Waitiki landing, and the other day sun combined with a complete The next morning the sea was rough at Tapotupotu Bay, where we camped absence of shade and hordes of vora- - large breaking waves out to sea, big the first night. cious sandflies made the beach a surf inshore. The rain had slowed to rather uncomfortable resting place. a drizzle, but the wind was still gale On day one we launched under an After some lunch and a break we force (at least). overcast sky with a calm sea and walked up to the top of the cape to little wind. The paddle up until the survey conditions to the south. We On day 4 it was overcast with a fresh Cape Reinga lighthouse came into didn’t like what we saw - large swells nor’wester. The dumping surf on the view was easy and uneventful. On made finding a safe landing spot un- beach was still quite large. We de- reaching Cape Reinga we could certain, and since we were both rather cided to wait and see if conditions clearly see large waves out to sea tired after the morning’s exertions, we improved. An option we had dis- breaking over the Columbia Bank decided to call it a day and set up camp cussed the previous night was to pad- (which stretches a couple of miles between two dunes at C.M.v.D. A red dle to Te Werahi beach and portage offshore) accompanied by a rather sunset seemed to promise good to the Cape Reinga road. It would be intimidating roar. Closer to the coast- weather for the next day. hard work, but at least some way of line there was another zone of break- getting ourselves and the gear out if ing waves over the rocks and reefs The strength of the tidal stream off a paddle around Cape Reinga was close inshore. Approaching cau- Cape Reinga had completely sur- not on. The other option would be to tiously, we attempted to pick a way prised me. When preparing for the paddle to the northern end of 90 Mile between these two hazards. A trip I had read the relevant section in Beach which could be accessed by nor’easterly swell of 1.5 to 2 m was the ‘NZ Pilot’, but this mentioned a vehicle, though we had no way of directly on the stern, and a westerly maximum strength of only one knot. knowing what conditions for land- swell running into it resulted in some On reflection we concluded that this ing would be like there. rather large, confused seas. The probably referred to the tidal stream in nor’easterly swells seemed to be unu- the shipping lane well offshore, since At around 10.30am we had another sually slow moving, steep, and the tidal stream we had faced had look at the conditions. The wind had closely spaced, with breaking waves clearly been considerably stronger. eased off and the surf looked smaller. despite the lack of wind, and it was We decided to pack up and launch, only once I realized that we were The following morning we awoke to heading for Cape Reinga. The slack hardly making any headway along find the sea covered in whitecaps, tide would be around 2.15pm, so we the coast that it dawned on me that and a 20-25 knot nor’easter. The wanted to launch by about 1pm. With we had to be paddling into a strong weather was clearly deteriorating, so a little help from Ray I exited through tidal stream. We gradually moved we decided not to paddle, and went the surf and settled in to an uncom- into rougher water, and then, despite for a walk (and a search for a source fortable wait for Ray, bobbing up paddling quite hard, stopped making of water) instead. We found clear and down in large swells. I had progress altogether. From time to fresh water in the Te Werahi stream, difficulty seeing the beach over the time we would surf 10-20 metres which we filtered and subsequently swells. After a while I caught

7 No. 81 June - July 1999 glimpses of Ray out of his kayak to find the yellow Puffin drifting 09 409 8104, would be a valuable apparently retrieving things from the through the channel towards Aus- source of information. He knew all surf. He later told me that a wave had tralia. I jumped into my kayak, set about the strong tidal streams off knocked him back clean out of his off in pursuit, and after catching up Cape Reinga, which were not men- kayak as he tried to break out. Later with the kayak and attaching a tow tioned in any of the books I had read I saw that every time Ray got into his rope, had to work hard against the beforehand.) kayak on the beach and then started tidal stream to get back to the beach. 2. Discuss before launching what to pushing himself forwards, a wave After a little rest we headed back to do if the party is split up during a surf would turn the kayak sideways, and C.M.v.D. beach, pitched camp, and break-out. he would have to get out again to turn had supper. the heavily laden Puffin back into the Finally, despite not being able to get waves. Time was ticking by. If we On the morning of day 5 we awoke to very far by kayak, both Ray and I felt didn’t get away soon the tide would calm weather and improving sea con- that the trip had been very interesting have turned before we got to Cape ditions. Ray still felt unwell, so we and worthwhile. Despite and per- Reinga. I started wondering what I were faced with having to walk out. haps to some extent because of its would do if Ray couldn’t get out. We We packed up and left by 8am, tak- many challenges, Cape Reinga is a had not discussed this possibility ing as much with us as we could fascinating place to visit, and even if beforehand. The dumping surf reasonably carry. The plan was to conditions preclude one from doing looked bigger from my vantage point walk back to Ray’s Mini at much paddling, the area is well worth just behind the breakers. I definitely Tapotupotu Bay, drive to Waitiki exploring on foot. didn’t want to land on this beach landing to get the foldaroll in my car, Etienne de Beer again. Eventually after well over an and then return to collect the kayaks hour Ray made it through the surf. one at a time. Ray was by now EDITOR’S NOTE: He had lost a second pair of sun- reduced to wearing a T-shirt on his I checked my 1971 Edition of the glasses and his beanie to the surf. We head to shield him from the sun. ‘Pilot’ for information on the north- paddled to Te Werahi beach. The Walking through the desert-like land- ern capes: waves there were monstrous and scape he looked like Raymond of The tidal streams off Cape Maria breaking with massive force. The Arabia. We arrived at Tapotupotu Van Diemen are estimated to at- band of surf to be traversed in order Bay at 11am. Ray didn’t feel well tain a rate of 2 to 3 knots, at times, to land was very wide. We felt there enough to go back for a portage. We and races are frequent... The was no way we could land safely, so drove to Waitiki landing, had some stream sets southward from about we paddled on towards Cape Reinga. lunch, and inquired about the possi- -0345 to +0215 Auckland, and The swells were huge, and already it bility of getting a vehicle to collect northward from +0230 to -0400 seemed we were barely making head- the kayaks and gear. We had previ- Auckland.... Between Cape Re- way against the tidal stream. The ously seen some tyre tracks out at inga and North Cape, the tidal delay in getting off the beach had C.M.v.D. We were told that the tracks stream sets westward with a rising meant that we had lost the window of were those of 4WD farm bikes be- tide and eastward with a falling opportunity at slack water. After a longing to DOC, and were directed tide.... while we had to turn back to CMvD. to Te Paki Station. The helpful ranger The coast between Cape Reinga there agreed to help us retrieve the and North cape does not afford On the way back I thought of pad- kayaks and gear with a farm bike and any shelter, and, although there dling to the top of 90 mile beach trailer. A few hours later, after a are no outlying dangers, it should instead. Given the recent strong quite remarkable journey, we were not be approached within a dis- nor’easter which had flattened out safely back at Te Paki station with tance of 4 miles on account of the the swells on the west coast I felt that the kayaks and gear. We thanked the strong tidal streams. the surf there should be smaller. We ranger profusely, and parted with a decided to land on the eastern side of modest fee (given the daunting na- I can’t find a reference to the strength Motuopao Island to think it over. ture of the retrieval). of the tidal stream in the races off The beach was steep with dumping Cape Reinga, however a marine chart waves. We pulled the kayaks up and I learnt a number of things during may note this information. walked over to the western side to this trip, including perhaps most im- assess the size of the swells rolling in portantly: Regarding tidal streams, bear in mind from the west. A strong current was 1. Prepare thoroughly before tack- the two following points: running out through the channel be- ling an unknown challenging stretch 1). slack water, when the tidal streams tween the island and the Cape, kick- of coastline, preferably including change from flood to ebb or vice versa, ing up some waves as it met the speaking to someone with local do not always correspond with high westerly swell. Ray was feeling un- knowledge. (For anyone planning a and low water times on the coast. well and didn’t feel up to attempting trip around Cape Reinga, Te Paki 2). Tidal stream rates are strongest the paddle to the top of 90 Mile Reserves Field Centre Supervisor during spring tides and weakest dur- Beach. We headed back to the beach, Trevor Bullock, ph 09 4097521, fax ing neap tides.

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

dling clobber which was on the shelter for the night. AJ’s effort to ground alongside. For the next few get a fire going in the pot belly stove D’URVILLE ISLAND hours, while watching the surges, AJ was in vain. Only a portion of the An Island of Many complained that the batteries smoke vented through the chimney, powering his headlamp was were the rest through a host of rusty cracks Surprises buggered, so feeble was the light. above the stove. Eye watering smoke by Giselle Groves However the problem wasn’t feeble filled the hut, forcing us outside to a May 17 dawned crisp and cold, with batteries. When the tide dropped, AJ BBQ fire. We cooked fish thanks to snow on nearby peaks as our intrepid entered his tent, took his hat off, and Brendan and AJ and exchanged group of kayakers got ready at French then his sunglasses! Viagra and Monica Lewinsky jokes Pass. This was yet another hoped- - oh hum .... for trip around D’Urville Island. In For the rest of the night we listened to due course, Karen, Marty, AJ, the endless cacophony of blue pen- The snoring was minimal that night Brendan and myself paddled off over guins - adorable creatures, aren’t they, so we were fresh next morning and a light chop to Lucky Bay. Paul except at night! Sunday brought clear breezed round gnarly Old Mans Head Caffyn and friend Lynda stayed be- calm weather as we waited for the but once past this headland it was a hind to join us next morning. 10.30am high tide. good time to yawn and lean back. We didn’t venture to the Rangitoto On landing and after inspecting a Lynda and Paul joined us from French Islands, one of which is home to a DoC camp site at Lucky Bay, which Pass and we headed for Catherine strange individual who must spend looked suspiciously wet, I placed my Cove and plunger coffee at the Wil- his time contemplating when he’s tent further back in the bushes. The derness Resort and restaurant. Marty not doing more mundane tasks such others nonchalantly placed theirs on wanted to avoid a head wind funnel- as tending to his garden. A veritable the official camping area. Later that ling down the bay and took off - modern-day mystic - I have to meet night, AJ was cosy in his sleeping never mind the coffee. Such was the him one day! Karen and Marty were bag, sleeping serenely under the stars height of the flood tide, Brendan, hailed once more and then we didn’t next to the camp fire while the other Paul and AJ paddled round a nearby see them again on this trip. After three had retired to their respective creek, across the front lawn and right stopping for a stretch and hill scram- tents. Without warning, AJ was star- up to the steps of the restaurant. The ble at Waitai Bay, AJ promised us tled by a violent tidal surge that swept lady proprietor, stood on top of the lunch at a farmhouse somewhere in up the creek to engulf the base of his restaurant steps, hands on hips, and the vicinity of McLarens Bay. sleeping bag. His shout of, “Surge” shook her head in disbelief. Well you was met with initial scepticism from know, some paddlers would rather Alas the beach had been eroded and the tent dwellers. Every few minutes not walk if there’s enough water it wasn’t safe to land so we contin- another surge swept further and fur- around to stay afloat. After coffee ued, weaving around the rocky short ther through the trees, and around the and chat, the trio had to drag their line on gently swell. Rocky out- tent dwellers. Frantic activity ensued, kayaks across to the water as they’d crops became larger and potentially as bodies emerged from sleeping been left high and dry in the grass by more menacing as approached bags. Headtorches flickered through the receding tide. Bilhook Point and turned left into the trees as tents were dismantled Bilhook Bay At last - a place to land. and dragged up slope through the Karen and I smiled at this but later on Frying pans were produced and bushes. Water, water everywhere! we weren’t smiling as a nor-easterly Brendan and I were treated to AJ’s How delightful! We had a spring had picked up and we bounced our bacon and eggs. I then had a chilly tide to contend with. For the next way across to D’Urville Peninsula. swim - in that old-fashioned swim- hour or so we watched fascinated as Here some big confused waves were suit that Paul hated {Victorian style, Marty, like a sentinel on duty, shouted lying in wait. After getting through knee to neck style} - and later we “Surge,” whenever sea water rushed this we had an easier ride to the DOC climbed a hill overlooking Stephens round the corner overwhelming the camp site near Penguin Island and Island to view the tidal streams and small creek and onto the camp site. found Marty waiting. It was lunch- white water round Saddle Rocks. We It was well past high tide and still time but not too relaxed a sojourn as would laze about till getting towards water kept surging round the camp wasps flitted around hungrily. That slack tide - about 4.30pm, before fire till two tents were hurriedly afternoon we lazily paddled into attempting the passage to the west moved to drier ground. The embers Whareata Bay. Wondrous to behold, around Cape Stephens. Finally were hissing and kayaks were afloat we could see our reflections in the 3.50ish we got under way with AJ so there was much splashing and water. Karen and Marty at this stage well in the vanguard to reconnoitre shouting before everything was se- chose to push ahead and with luck the conditions ahead. All was well cured for the night. hoped to complete the trip Wednes- so we paddled briskly between two day. The rest of us cruised in the bay. granite behemoths as there wasn’t In a rush to grab his clothes with the A derelict but serviceable hut aban- enough water to get through Hells first surge, AJ had donned his pad- doned by its Maori owners, gave us Gate. Then we were through Bishops

9 No. 81 June - July 1999

Cauldron, only encountering one set tense time which continued till we That evening round our camp fire we of standing waves where we had to surfed into Otu Bay for a respite from played musical chairs as the wind make a quick turn left parallel to what was in my mind, roller- kept fanning smoke from one of AJ’s these waves. Phew, it was unnerv- coastering conditions. After a lei- bonfires in different directions. Talk ing but suddenly we were clear of the surely lunch there was a sprint up a about smoke gets in your eyes. obstacles and riding a moderate swell ridge where the presence of a large all the way to Swampy Bay in Port depression indicated perhaps an old Next day the wind had dropped so we Hardy. The swell eased the nearer we Maori midden site. We inspected the wouldn’t need to spend an extra day came to the bay where I suffered the sea on the other side of Bottle penin- cruising in the harbour. Ragged Point indignity of capsizing in a dumper sula. It was a precipitous drop sev- seemed a breeze after Nile Head and wave. Happily I was able to walk to eral hundred metres down and Paul several cave openings tempted Paul shore rather than swim. This bay addressed me, perhaps noting my and Brendon to go exploring. Lynda, provided plenty of driftwood for a look of apprehension, “Giselle shall AJ and I paddled into Sandy Bay in huge fire. The stars that night turned we get on our way? I don’t think it’ll milky waters. Later on, all I could conversation to philosophical ques- get any better”. What could I say? extract from Paul about the caves tions on the origins of the universe were vague allusions to a Taniwha and space-time as understood by ama- We clambered back and embarked. and a Swedish maiden sunbathing in teurs - good stuff! The next hour was hellish or simply the nude on rocks. You can do better an orgy of excitement, depending on than that, Paul! Anyway, those of us Tuesday morning saw us paddling the individual paddler. Kayaks dis- who hadn’t ventured into these caves happily deep into Port Hardy to meet appeared in troughs and reappeared had obviously missed out as condi- up with a pod of dolphins. Further on top of crests. The dramatic back- tions in the such a gentle swell were on our kayaks felt so much heavier in drop of towering cliffs was not given not likely to be repeated very often. still waters. Brendon and I picked a due attention alas. Wasn’t I glad my On a glassy sea we turned into Cherry few too many mussels and these we Penguin’s bow was kept low by sun- bay for a chat with an old friend of had for lunch. We met up with peo- dry tins of Budget baked beans and Paul’s before continuing on past the ple from two yachts named ‘Susan’s spaghetti shoved as far forward as Paddock Rocks and checking out Floor’ and ‘Tevakenui’, Marc le Lec, possible! Then inexplicably the sea another cave. This time I ventured in the owner of the latter yacht, had colour turned pale green and narrow to hear loud subterranean noises like recently sailed up the Russian coast beaches came into view at the base of an underwater river. and through the Bering Strait - the cliffs. Some of these cliff faces re- first foreign yacht to do so. vealed contorted fracture lines while At Le Brun Peninsula we stopped for others supported patches of vegeta- lunch and also to wait for high tide at We avoided the two DoC camp sites tion with a precarious foothold on French Pass. There are two Maori in South Arm - too spectral and damp; vertical rock faces It was nice to graves on top of this promontory. instead stopped for the night at an relax shoulders, swivel heads and And so for the last leg of our trip we uninhabited farmhouse and out build- resume conversation. We rounded paddled diagonally across Current ings with only two resident caretaker Two Bay Point and there was Greville Basin. The tide had just turned so horses. The house had an abandoned Harbour, expansive and welcoming. that we felt pulled eastwards towards look and I was informed that the We turned left in to quieter waters the Pass. We proceeded cautiously owner had committed suicide a year and landed on an immense beach for with the reefs and beacon well to our or two ago. His ghost may have been a stretch and walk. Then it was left. Lynda, Paul and Brendan were wandering round his island home for straight across the harbour to en- further from shore when Lynda was I felt uncomfortable after setting up counter what must surely be Godzilla caught by an whirlpool which spun tent on the lawn. Sombre shadows on the far shore, looming black and her around. She kept her cool and could hide something and no-one brooding but fortunately showing no escaped, that was well done, Lynda. might hear me scream. I moved my sign of movement. Godzilla turned Round Collinet Point, into Elmslie tent closer to the others and heard a into a rock monolith at the entrance Bay and that was the conclusion of story of sacrifice and altruism to glad- of a small bay. our trip without any big anticlimax den the heart of any animal lover. AJ and no-one to greet us either! Thanks had fed half his prized apple to the We set up camp on the sandy beach to AJ for his advice and caution as a more emaciated of the horses. Paul and checked out the water supply veteran of at least two previous cir- took a photo; he was so impressed. inland - not too good. Then a walk on cumnavigations of this island of many the wild side to view eroded cliffs surprises. In the morning after bidding adieu to and sheer drops on the far side of the inquisitive horses it was time to Ragged Point. Whitecaps further out Giselle Groves face what Nile Head had in store, just added to the desolate backdrop of this south of Port Hardy. We rounded coast line. On a previous trip AJ had Trafalgar Pt. and immediately hit actually tried fishing from the cliff tidal turbulence. It was a riveting and tops - must have been one long line!

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

BOOK REVIEW

TITLE: Dances with Waves rates, attacked by drunks, and marooned waterproofed and mounted on deck. by kayak ‘salvagers’, he is tested in In the midst of some desperate mo- Subtitle: Around Ireland by Kayak many ways, both on the sea and while ments, when he was struggling to keep Author: Brian Wilson ashore. He copes with a quiet humour, it together, he found another part of his Published: 1998 which shines throughout the book. His psyche was coping by singing aloud. Publisher: The O’Brien Press Ltd. tales of the wicked humour of the Irish ISBN: 0-86278-551-0 make great reading: The story of his paddle is well inter- Contents: 320 pages, 16 colour spersed with history, local tales and photographs “He’s tryin’ to see can’t he get all environmental concerns. These do Size: 13 x 20 cm. round the country in a little canoe - not distract from the story, but do Cover: Softbound by sea!” explained one man. much to strengthen it. Brian is a close Reviewer: John Kirk-Anderson “What would he want to be doin' watcher of people, and his observa- that for?” piped up another sage. tions are put to good use. In 1985 Brian Wilson, freshly gradu- “Sure, doesn’t everybody know that ated from Edinburgh University with the sea goes all around Ireland?” My only complaint about the book is a philosophy degree, set off on his own “It’s a circo-circle-circum-naviga- a shortage of maps. Those that are to paddle around Scotland. He told the tion, so!” declared another. provided are clear, but I was frequently story of his 1800 mile journey in ‘Blaz- “No, isn’t that what the Jewish searching back to find locations of ing Paddles’, which has been twice sailorboys have at birth!” came the very unfamiliar names. reviewed in the KASK newsletter. reply. All in all, a very good read. After that journey he settled into a He explains his secret for maintain- John Kirk-Anderson series of conservation jobs, which kept ing four knots, day after day. Huge him in the wilds of Scotland. For five arms are not the reason, but song Availability: years he stuck at those jobs avoiding sheets. During his Scottish trip he If your favourite bookshop can't track the call of the sea, until eventually, paddled to the tune of half remem- down this title, it is available from the ‘My name Is Brian, and I am a bered songs. This time he was well author. Contact the n/l editor for the shoreaholic, the obsession won and prepared with the words written out, price and address details. he set off on a solo journey around Ireland. This 1200 mile trip is the subject of his latest book, ‘Dances with Waves’.

Wiser to the requirements of fund raising, Brian manages to get the whole cost of the expedition underwritten by a charity arranging cornea transplants. Part of his duties for this sponsorship include numerous functions and keeping the name of the expedition in the news. On his last trip he obviously found these commitments hard, but in ‘Dances with Waves’, he comes across as being quite relaxed about these tasks. The impression throughout the book is that he has fine tuned many skills relat- ing to solo travel. He still admits to being depressed while weather bound for days on a lonely coast but he is very matter of fact, knowing his moods will lift along with the cloud base.

Brian, by his own admission, seems to end up in truly bizarre circumstances. Kidnapped by ransom demanding pi-

11 No. 81 June - July 1999

- avoid justifying your own actions and don’t attempt to assign blame. THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE (eg. We were half way across the THE CASTOR BAY harbour when the SW front ar- ‘BUGGER!’ REPORT REPORT FORM rived; NOT - I told Paul the bloody by Hugh & Biddy Canard weather looked bad) ‘Dangerous Landing - if it’s your opinion then say so (in Conditions’ As a society we tend to write up acci- my opinion...... ) by Vincent Maire dents and analyse what went wrong, - if a statement or fact is attribut- (Plucked from the ASKNET or too often simply to assign blame. able, then name the source. (eg., Newsletter, June-July 1999.) None of this helps those killed or John was getting annoyed; not injured. It may make others more people were getting annoyed) There I was in the office working hard careful or in many cases, more adept - remember to include things you and the phone goes. It was Dave at covering their butts. Almost all did correctly Robertson. For those of you who don’t accidents are preceded by a series of know Dave, he is a big man with a big incidents, which if reported on, can If there were two leaders on the trip heart and helped me get into sea kayak- allow others to learn from, and thus then both should sign the report or ing about 10 years ago. Dave organ- avoid the bit that really hurts, the else write a report each. ized the first two Coastbusters Sea accident. An incident is usually harm- Kayak Symposiums, a trail blazing less, like if your car stalls on a railway Let the readers form their own opin- activity if there was ever one. I bought crossing. An accident is when the ions from the facts in sequence. The my first sea kayak off Dave and we train comes along. By learning from people reading your report have prob- shared quite a few trips together. incidents we can reduce the risk of ably done all the dumb things you did accidents. and they will empathise. The reason for Dave’s call was not good. He had been walking his dog Purpose of a ‘Bugger!’ File Participant's Involvement along Castor Bay when it bit one of Report If the incident is obvious to the par- two sea kayakers who had just landed The main purpose of this report is to ticipants, then it is important to advise on the beach. Dave described the vic- ensure that we learn from the experi- them the incident will be written up tim as an old bugger in a greeny ences of others and from our own and the reasons for this action. coloured sea kayak. I do happen to successes and mistakes. By writing know quite a few old buggers who go the details down we can collect our BENEFITS sea kayaking mid week but couldn’t thoughts and analyse the actions or - It provides feedback to correct and place the sea kayak so suggested Dave inactions we took and try to be objec- improve what we do. call Clive Hookham to see if he knew tive and non judgmental. - We can all improve our kayaking who it might be. “No it wasn’t Clive, and leadership skills by learning from I know him,” Dave assured me. So we What is a ‘Bugger!’ one another. left it at that. When I got home that Moment - We are collectively a lot smarter evening, I received the following email from Clive: - near miss accident than any one of us. unusual course of events outside - One life saved or serious injury Hi Vin your experience avoided makes all the reports written Just to let you know I had a really an accident involving minor per- worthwhile. enjoyable day paddling around sonal injury or damage to equip- Rangitoto from Castor Bay. Susan ment, which could have been more by Hugh & Biddy Canard Hill came and we went clockwise, serious got to Gardiners Gap almost an hour - a sequence of events that was after high tide, but as it was a 3.4m threatening group safety but you THE ‘BUGGER!’ FILE tide, there was plenty of water took actions that reduced risk COMPILER though quite a current running Please send your ‘Bugger!’ Report to against us as we paddled under the Basic Rules for Writing the KASK Safety Officer, Cathye bridge. Had lunch on the old wharf up a 'Bugger!' Haddock, whose mail address is: 1/18 ramp at the entrance to Islington File Report Avon St., Island Bay, Wellington. Bay and even had a swim, almost - concentrate on the facts and avoid email: [email protected] like a summers day. Will keep fingers colourful language, keep adjectives crossed for something similar next to a minimum. And any really good ones, particu- Sunday. Only complaint was I got - use active not passive language larly when the lessons learned can be bitten by a dog when we landed back (eg., I hit a rock with my paddle passed on to all paddlers, please send at Castor Bay. and broke it... not the paddle broke a copy to the editor. Clive. when it hit a rock)

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

My first reaction was one of concern They had both been very patient sunny day for paddling tomorrow. for the dog. I just hope Dave took it to through the whole process, which to What does it mean to you Holmes?” the vet for a tetanus shot. Then Susan this point had taken about an hour, “To me,” said Homes, “it means some sent me some more details on the and it fact they had asked some very rotten scoundrel has flogged our tent!” incident. pertinent questions. This assured me that they would be fine and so I set THAT NEW YORK I guess you figured that the green them off with instructions for their ATTITUDE and white kayak was mine. We had return time. A Frenchman, an Englishman and a taken Clive’s boat up first and then New Yorker were on a filming mis- gone down the beach for mine when Walking back to the office, the female sion on a very remote island in the the dog attacked. We did nothing to client’s comment about her profes- Aleutian Island chain. Incensed by provoke it, but I wish I had still been sion and also something vaguely fa- filming of secret ceremonies, the lo- carrying the beautiful, twisted walk- miliar about her name, began to nig- cal Aleut tribe captured the film crew ing stick that I found floating in the gle away at me but I couldn’t work out who were hauled before the Shaman water off Rangitoto. what is was. It wasn’t until I checked to learn of their fate. the intentions form and read her full “I’ve got good news and bad news for Susan, yes in hindsight, hitting Clive name that the penny dropped. you,” announced the Shaman. with a big stick would have been a “The bad news is that you are going to very good idea. She was in fact a pro sailor with more be sacrificed to appease the sacred Vincent Maire than a little sea time, and with a name spirits. Then my men are going to like Isabella Autissier (solo round the remove your skins and the women world yachtswoman) I should have will sew them onto a kayak frame. realized sooner. However the good news is that you VIVA LA FRANCE may choose the method by which you However my briefing was certainly will die.” by Dave Watson justified as a month later, Isabella (Plucked from the SKOANZ capsized in the Southern Ocean and I With this statement, the Frenchman Autumn 1999 Newsletter.) am sure it was my reassuring words steps forwards and says, “I vill take ze about how to deal with a capsize that poison.” And so he is given a gourd of Just a quick story to emphasize the impor- got her through the experience but poison used on the kayaker’s har- tance of a thorough rental briefing. obviously she didn’t understand my poons for hunting whales. The sight is instructions on reading the weather. not pretty as the Frenchman's limbs A heavily accented couple entered Bon Jour, quiver in his death throes. our office one morning and asked Dave Watson. about a day rental. Our policy is no Then the Englishmen steps forward day rentals unless they have quite a bit HUMOUR and announces, “I will take the quickest of previous experience and providing way. If you would kindly present me we have the time. PROBLEM SOLVING with a gun.” And so it is done, and the Solver of Miss Terry’s, Sherlock Englishman falls dead in an instant. The couple assured me they had a fair Holmes and his long time associate bit of sea time and with a good fore- Dr. Watson, had paddled Rob Roy The New Yorker steps forward and cast I thought, why not. style kayaks to a remote gravel beach says bluntly, “Give me a fork!” An in western Scotland. After a good Aleut woman brings a fork from her Having explained possible weather nosh, they had slipped into their blan- kitchen. The New Yorker strips off scenarios for the day plus all the op- ket sleeping bags and were lying be- his clothes and begins to stab himself tions in case of an emergency, we neath the night sky. all over his body with the fork. Blood began filling out the intentions form. gushes from the wounds and the hor- When I asked them for details of pre- Holmes asked Watson, “Watson, look rified Shaman steps forward. vious experience in the outdoors, they up. What do you see?” “Stop this madness. This is terrible. both said they sea kayak at home and “I see thousands of stars,” Watson What are you doing?” both had considerable sailing experi- replied. ence. I questioned whether it was a “And what does that mean to you?” The New Yorker replies, “Ha. So much dinghy, keeler, offshore or what, to Holmes asked. for your kayak!” which they replied a little of each and “I suppose it means that all of the the woman said she sailed profession- planets in the universe, we are truly ally. I shrugged this off a little as time fortunate to be here on earth,” said was getting on and after a demonstra- Watson. “We are small in God’s eyes, KAYAK FOR SALE tion with a flare, we went over to the but should struggle every day to be Puffin (in very good condition) for beach where I demonstrated a capsize worthy of our blessings. In a meteoro- sale. Please ring Rachel Tobin on and re- entry. logical sense, it means we will have a (04) 473 1020

13 No. 81 June - July 1999

sion was needed to camp on their glimpse of the Chathams revealed an TRIP REPORT land. In my attempt to find out which area much larger than we had ex- farmers to contact before we arrived, pected, rolling contour with large I came across the first real barrier. I sandy bays, waves breaking over the CHATHAMS 1999 was told the policy on the Chathams reefs, rugged headlands and a few by David Herrington was No Camping!! Fortunately, Max cone shaped hills scattered about. has the ability to make a few phone At Coastbusters four years ago there calls and sort things out. An item in The Waitangi hotel has a happy hour was a workshop on “Planning an over- the Chatham Islander, (their monthly on Friday nights so that’s where we seas paddle.” My wee mind started newspaper) had informed the locals started. A couple of Ex Dannevirke into gear. What about the Chathams? of our intended visit. When we ar- (my home town) ladies came over and Has anyone paddled around them? rived we were handed a map of the introduced themselves and we talked There would certainly be some re- Chathams with the names of most of to some of the locals about the sea search and planning to do. I started in the farm owners around the coast who conditions and the weather. We by getting some library books about had given us permission to camp on learned that there was a 25kt south the Chathams and the homework was their land. Also transport from the westerly and a 4 metre southerly swell. underway. airport was provided for our kayaks. All the fishing boats were in the har- i.e. a chassis with wheels and two bours and didn’t expect to get out for Over the next three years I had learned boards attached to tie our kayaks to. It a day or two. We were also told “you a lot about the Chatham Islands and worked, and we were very grateful to should have been here last week the made initial contact with the police have had use of the trailer on several weather has been perfect.” station there to ensure all safety re- occasions. quirements would be met but I had not Our original plan was to paddle the been able to organise my work for Three days before we were due to Pitt Island first, that went out the door time off in January or February, which leave I ran my finger a bit close to a in two seconds flat. The only option is the best time to visit and kayak the woodsplitter and took off 3/4 of a was to paddle north along the east area. fingernail and a bit of finger. Not too coast, across the northern side and serious, but thought I had better get a hope that in three days, when we were By November 1998 things were look- doctor to check it out. I was told it will due to head southwards the swell ing a bit more hopeful. I could man- take about three weeks to grow over, would have decreased. age time away from the farm. I had a keep it dry!! That is why I did my page headed up ‘hit list’ for the paddling with one hand in a plastic Saturday: By the time we had packed Chathams. This was a combination of bag. our kayaks and got a lift from Waitangi three years jottings, thoughts and con- over to the other side at Owenga it was tacts I had tried. Things were starting Friday 12th Feb. We made our way to midday. With a bit of the swell com- to come together. Wellington airport where we surprised ing around the corner and a following the cargo boss with 5.3 metre kayaks wind we made good time around Max Grant and I had often talked despite my continued requests to make Hanson Bay. We stayed fairly close to about paddling the Chathams but we sure a 5.3 metre sea kayak would fit the shoreline because of the possibil- had never really put anything together. on the plane, he was still expecting ity of being pushed too far out from I enjoy Max's company and learn a lot little ones. our destination point in the distance when paddling with him, so I men- and the fact that in the middle of the tioned to him about paddling around Our flight call came and the only bay there was a TV film crew on one the Chathams in summer 1999, and thing left to do was take a photo of the of the local fishing boats feeding asked if he was interested in coming. Convair 580 we were to fly down in. burley to attract the sharks for film- The answer was obvious in his eyes, “Bugger!”, the batteries were flat on ing. That was one fishing boat we but he ran it past his wife Margaret to my camera. We had enough spare AA gave a wide berth. We paddled for six check the work load before giving the batteries to last our torches, radios, hours, keeping a safe distance from okay. and G.P.S. for a month but they didn’t the breaking sea on the reef at the fit the camera. We boarded the plane north-eastern point then around into I had hoped to be able to watch the and waited for over half an hour for a calm water at Point Munning to make weather patterns and go when I thought Mr. Douglas to come. Plenty of time camp. This was to be the first of my there was a good spell of weather to go and get some batteries if I had three attempts to sleep under the stars predicted. This was not to be. Max only known we would be waiting that before I realised that a drizzling rain had a week available mid February so long. In the end it was established that fell every night. our airfares were booked. Mr. Douglas had boarded the wrong plane and was heading for Nelson or Sunday: After an hours paddle we As we would be arriving on Friday Timbuktu or somewhere!! So we left. were at Kaingaroa. A settlement of afternoon, there would be difficulty in about 70 people where one of the contacting the farmers whose permis- The flight over was smooth. The first three fish factories in the Chathams is

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

located. It was about 10:00 am and ing into shore and we were invited up following conditions and a fast ran to hardly a soul to be seen. I’m not sure to his house for a cuppa that evening. Cape L’Eveque and the Horns. So whether everyone was at church or Most of the farmers are also fisher- named because of the two high pointed recovering from the club night on men at the Chathams. rock outcrops on the cliff. We were Saturday. We talked to a chap taking now heading along the southern coast- his son fishing in their row boat, got Monday, a flat sea and no wind. The line, some wind swirls and showers some fresh water, had a welcome shore line was slowly changing. Cape were coming off the 200m high cliffs cuppa tea with Ray and Elaine at the Young has very interesting cliff and all along the southern coast of the accommodation house. Ray is an ex rock formations and it would be a Chathams. My impression was there ship fish factory worker now filling in great place to spend some time just are a thousand pictures, truly amazing his retirement by horse-trekking nosing around. Another point and scenery. There were a few fishing around the Chathams. another big bay followed. We stopped boats in this area and Max was offered at Maunganui the site of the ‘old stone a huge crayfish which he couldn’t From Kaingaroa we went around a cottage’ for lunch. This cottage was accept at the time as there was no- point to another big bay and into the built by the German Moravian Mis- where to carry it, but he collected it wind that had helped us the previous sionaries who arrived in 1843 and it is later and we had it for tea. It had been day!! After slogging away for a few now being restored. a incredible days paddle and was only hours it was time for some scroggin marred by the 20kt head wind we had and time to stretch our legs with a We were now coming to the north for the last hour of paddling back to walk to the top of a quarry to see what western side of the Chathams and our starting point at Owenga jetty. We we were up against next. On our way would soon know if the swell had died had been on the go for the last few up we saw a house and decided to call down. The wind was on a change to a days and it seemed to me a little like in on our way down. This was a mis- northerly, and there were a few higher going around the outside of a house take. As we were coming back we peaks of about 150 metres inland that with an occasional peek in through were met by a lady who informed us we could see. the windows. Once back in Owenga it we were trespassing!! After a little was different, we stayed in the local discussion we found out that she didn’t The days had been long, 2 1/2 days camping ground (really just the back get any newspapers or have a TV so with a total of 22 hours spent pad- lawn of Steve and Barbie Joyce) but did not know of the two kayakers. We dling. There was a bit of a debate as to given royal treatment with a tour also learned from her about all the what time we would stop paddling around the sites of Owenga and lots of sharks around the Chathams. I’m sure and where we were heading for the great hospitality, which we really en- she was of the opinion that if we were night. We were now amongst a de- joyed. mad enough to be kayaking in that creasing southerly swell and its re- area, not asking permission to land bound from the shoreline and cliffs. Thursday: It was always part of the was forgivable? Ocean Bay was our camp for the night, plan to be able to paddle across Pitt a deepish sheltered bay with a sandy Strait. We left Owenga and paddled From there we paddled around beach and running water, plus a tree for one hour passing the Tommy Solo- Matarakau Point and passed a shag or two just to set the scene. Time for a mon memorial (the last living full colony. There are lots of such colo- wash down in the coffee coloured blooded Moriori), and another fishing nies scattered around the Chathams water which was fresh, but stained boat wreck to reach Cape Fournier and Pitt Island, with an extra large from the peat in the catchment area. which is the South Eastern point of colony at South East Island, where Chatham Island. The low profile of there was close to one hundred juve- Tuesday: First stop was at Port Hutt Pitt Island in sharp contrast to the high niles on the sea. I was approaching harbour, two ship wrecks, a fish fac- cliff face on Mangere Island which from up wind, right in their take off tory and a friendly cuppa tea. Then a lay ahead of us. This 13NM stretch of path and was nearly hit by several flying run with a following sea back water is not as far across as Cook shags that took off a bit late and to Waitangi with both of us listening Strait but is equally as challenging. couldn’t get airborne. on our walkmans to a Bee Gees tape We had ideal conditions, a 10kt north- coming over the local radio station, erly breeze helping us along and an Another bay and a long haul with the Radio Weka. A two hour stop at outgoing Southerly tide of 2kts. Eve- head wind to Taupeka Point. On the Waitangi for a beer and restock, then rything was in our favour. We stopped other side of Taupeka point there were on past some interesting rocks and several times for a snack and a G.P.S. some hills in the distance, the first we caves towards Point Durham. At our reading to monitor progress. One hour had seen for a couple of days. So far nights camp we saw the dismasted out from Pitt Island I made a call to the shoreline had been mainly sand yacht “Gartmore” from the solo Pitt Island Radio to give a position dunes, a mixture of rocky out crops around the world race being towed report. On our arrival at Flower Pot and some low vegetation with a back back to Waitangi and I caught some jetty we were met by John and Bridget drop of high cloud. That evening as kelp, lost two hooks and a sinker. Preece, the radio operators, and we we were making camp the farm owner were given a cuppa tea. After a brief who is also a fisherman was just com- Wednesday: The northerly gave us stop we departed for the southern shore

15 No. 81 June - July 1999 of Pitt Island. This was a neat lei- ship call in for over 12 months with Then we found it, and spent the next surely paddle down the coast past supplies in or product out. We man- 1.5 hours dragging our kayaks as we Hakepa Hill, which is 231 metres high aged to get a ride back to Owenga that walked through ankle deep water. We and the first place to see the rising sun. evening on the fishing boat ‘Jezabel,’ eventually got to the other side and On into Glory Bay where the Brig then hitched a ride on the back of a walked a few kms to look over Hanson ‘Glory’ a sealing ship was ship fish truck to Waitangi. Bay to where we had started our pad- wrecked in 1827. The anchor is still dle around the Chathams. there to mark the spot. Sunday: We were given a treat by Jonnie Ireland the relieving constable There are many more magic moments Friday: From Glory Bay out around who took us out to catch some cod. I haven’t mentioned. It is certainly South East Island a wild life sanctuary The hook had hardly hit the water well worth a visit. with plenty of shags, seals and pen- when the fish struck. A meal in 15 guins. Max was able to fulfil a dream minutes - that is after throwing the We would like to record our thanks to by getting close to a penguin on the small ones back. all the Chatham Island folk that helped shore. It appeared to have been hit by us and made the trip such a memora- a seal or something and much pre- Two nights back in the hotel was ble and successful adventure. ferred to pose close up for Max’s enough (cabin fever was setting in) so camera than get back in the water. We on Monday, after spending some time TRIP STATISTICS were now really amongst spectacular in Waitangi we got a lift out to the Noon Saturday 13th: - Owenga to cliff faces and rugged coastline with lagoon. Of the 90,038 hectares 20% Point Munning. Southerly wind 23NM lots of caves. The sea conditions were of the Chatham Islands is lagoon and Sunday 14th: - Point Munning to perfect as we paddled in and around lakes. The last couple of nights were Wharekauri. Strong Southerly head these caves. I have never seen any- spent camped by the lagoon. That wind 17NM thing like it anywhere in New Zea- afternoon we attempted to do some Monday 15th: - Wharekauri to Ocean land. As we came north wards up the paddling into a 20kt wind and choppy Bay. Perfect conditions 20NM west side of Pitt to Mangere Island we water. After a couple of hours the far Tuesday 16th: - Ocean Bay to Point explored caves and marvelled at the shore was not within our reach. Max Durham. Northerly breeze 22NM ever changing rock formation. We was running on all cylinders now, Wednesday 17th: - Point Durham to paddled out around Mangere and Lit- practising for his next event. I wasn’t!! Owenga. Northerly wind 29NM tle Mangere Islands, once farmed but Thursday 18th: - Owenga across Pitt now another wild life sanctuary. We On Tuesday the second attempt to Strait to Flower Pot, then on to Glory were sheltered from the northerly sea cross the lagoon was a bit more suc- Bay. Northerly breeze 24.5NM going out, but had a fair slog on our cessful, (More or less.) Weather and Friday 19th: - Glory Bay to Waihere way back to Pitt Island to camp at water conditions were good, so we set Bay including Southeast, Mangere, Waihere Bay. off in another direction. Looking at and Little Mangere Islands. Northerly the map there is a ford where tractors breeze 19.5NM Saturday: The last little part of Pitt and trucks with chains can cross. We Saturday 20th: - Waihere Bay to where the cliff views were still stun- paddled along where we thought it Flower Pot where the trip finished at ning. Rabbit Island, a little Island or a was but the water was still 0.5m deep. 10.30am. Northerly wind 5NM big rock had a cave that you could get a big truck and trailer in. I managed to get a photo from inside the cave looking out with Max as a silhouette on glassy water with some Islands in the background. Enlarged and framed it will be a great reminder of the trip. By 10:30 we were back at Flower Pot jetty. A week of near perfect weather for our paddle.

The hospitality of the Pitt and Chatham Islanders continued with John and Bridget feeding us and then they took us for a drive to see the sights of Pitt Island where unlike the Chatham Is- land there is only one farmer/fisherman. The other farmers depend on their farming for an income which is even more reliant of the shipping serv- ice, it has been known not to have a Max Grant (Left) and David Herrington with a fresh catch of cod

16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

David Herrington paddling towards the Pinnacles on the Southern Coast of the Chathams.

17 No. 81 June - July 1999

BOOK REVIEWS

Title: What the best bottom finish is (matt, Title: ‘THE SHAPE smooth, highly polished, waxed)? EXTREME SEA OF THE CANOE’ What the difference is between KAYAKING primary and secondary stability? Author: John Winters Authors: Eric Soares & Published: 1996 Where to place your paddle (in the Michael Powers Publisher: John Winters wave crest or in the trough) for Published: 1999 Size: A4, softbound, 84pp, appendi- maximum advantage? Publisher: Ragged Mountain Press ces, index & bibliography ISBN: 0-07-050718-X Reviewer: Glyn Dickson These and many more questions are Contents: 121 pages, b&w photos, answered in this book. sketches, 11 chapters, index The first time I saw a copy of this book Size: 190mm x 230mm, softbound I decided it was to be a compulsory John Winters began commercially Price: $39.95 purchase. Having been in possession designing canoes and kayaks almost Reviewer: John Kirk-Anderson of my own copy for six months now, by accident. After retiring from a ca- I have referred back to it often, and am reer of boat building and designing, Whether you think of the Tsunami still trying to assimilate some of the he took up (Canadian) canoeing. Hav- Rangers as skilled surf paddlers who technical concepts, while applying the ing designed and built some canoes strain the envelope, or complete luna- analytical approach outlined. for his personal use, friends wanted tics who survive on pure luck, this the same, and when his articles which book was one I was really looking So what exactly is “The Shape of the form the basis of this book were pub- forward to reading. Canoe”? It is a revised series of arti- lished, he was approached by manu- cles which were originally published facturers to design boats under their The authors, Eric Soares and Michael in the Canoesport Journal (North labels. Powers, are veteran members of the American), with the aim of presenting Californian team and have both writ- the fundamentals of hydrodynamics A lifetime spent ‘mucking around with ten several articles in Sea Kayaker (or Naval Architecture) as they apply boats’, and an excellent understand- Magazine. Over the years their sto- to canoe design. While not specifi- ing of hydrodynamic theory has quali- ries, mainly instructional pieces, have cally aimed at kayaks, virtually all the fied him to help us interrelate the caused many irate letters to the Edi- concepts transfer straight across and analytical world of the Naval Archi- tor. A memorable story on survival the book provides an excellent re- tect, with our own paddling experi- swimming caused storms of protest source for those interested in a scien- ences. The author’s writing style is over the photo of the well equipped tific and analytical approach to the sufficiently light and interesting to paddler. Looking like Rambo with a issue of boat/canoe/kayak design and make good reading with a subject gear fetish, I always thought it needed methodology. which could become very dry and to be viewed with tongue firmly in mathematical. Additionally there are cheek. Despite this, I have always felt The chapters include a brief history, numerous graphs and they had a good message, as they canoe types, hull geometry, hull re- illustrations. certainly tested their skills and tech- sistance, motions of water/craft, sta- niques in the hard world. bility, seaworthiness, design method- I’m not sure whether this book is ology, performance prediction, pad- available through any of the NZ kayak Imagine then my disappointment on dles, and a short chapter devoted spe- retailers, but otherwise contact John getting this long awaited book. Filled cifically to sea kayaks. As well as Winters: to bursting with war stories, and little giving a good discussion of these top- Redwing Designs, else, I have read and re-read it, search- ics in a readily digestible manner, the PO Box 283 ing for solid information. The book author makes reference to more in- Burk’s Falls, Ontario P0A 1C0 has many references to other author’s depth publications throughout the text Canada. works, mainly Derek Hutchinson, for and in a bibliography should the reader Web page explanations of strokes etc. This I wish for further enlightenment. http://home.ican.net/~735769/ could except if it left space for better index.html subjects, but sadly this is not the case. Had you ever wondered....? Book price was around $20 Canadian plus post and packaging. A Sea Conditions Rating System, Why it becomes harder to paddle at (SCRS), makes for interesting read- a given speed in shallow water? Highly recommended for the ing. Attempting to classify the ocean, boatophile. like a white water paddler’s river grad- Glyn Dickson

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

ing, they have developed a system giving points for hazards. An example: “Let’s say you want to go storm PRESIDENTS REPORT - 14 JUNE 1999 kayaking, and are leaving from Princeton Harbour into the open sea. The new KASK committee has al- The committee is very much reliant The water temperature is 52 degrees F ready had its first meeting (confer- on input, feedback and support from (20 points), the wind is now 40 mph ence call) and another due on the 20 individual members to make some (40 points), the waves at sea are 20 June. The committee is hoping to make progress in these areas, so please give feet high (40 points), and you are two some real progress this year and make your support. The response to the re- miles offshore (20 points). Your score the most of the expertise we have with quest for ideas for the 2000 forum has is 120 points, divided by 20 =6. Class our committee members. I am hoping been pretty poor so please put pen to 6. Sound dangerous? It is.” I must we will have role description included paper, jump on the phone or e-mail. carry a calculator next time I go pad- with this newsletter, but they must dling. first be agreed on by the committee. There has been a steady growth in new members and as a result it is timely A lesson in grammar is offered in the Please make contact with committee to send out the latest KASK constitu- section on hand signals. These signals members who you think you may be tion to all members. If there is any range from the simple, I/Me, to the able to help. Some of the areas we are comments on our constitutions appro- descriptive ‘Chicken, flap elbow looking at include: priateness for the year 2000 and be- against side like a wing.’ Some of yond please write letters to the Editor. these could have a general usage, but 1.Sea kayak incident reporting - many would leave me feeling like, contact Cathye Haddock: The handbooks have been going very ‘slapping forehead with open hand’. (1/18 Avon St, Island Bay, well with and significant increase in Stupid. Wellington. handbooks going to new members [email protected].) and some retailers and one school Most of the Rangers paddle wash deck order to Pukekohe. It is still disap- kayaks, kevlar armoured panzers de- 2.Support networks in leadership pointing that some of the largest sea signed and built to be hammered into and safety training - contact John kayak outlets are not supporting rock gardens and caves. The rational Kirk-Anderson (PO Box 409, KASK and the handbook. All retail- for using these is explained by the Christchurch. ers have been sent promotional mate- ease of self recovery, and their belief [email protected]) rial and if you find retailers without that kayaking is an in-water, as op- KASK brochures and handbooks posed to on-water, activity. For this 3.Develop better national knowl- please ask them why not. reason they wear wet suits (they han- edge of conservation and access dle being flushed over sharp rocks issues - contact Peter Sullivan, In the mean time, here’s hoping for better than dry suits) and have tried (7 Monowai Cr, Nth New Brighton, some good spring weather and longer paddling in body armour (got torn off Christchurch. days and wishing Paul and Conrad by intense hydraulics). [email protected]) Edwards a safe journey in Greenland during July and August. Despite my disappointment with this book, it will appeal to some, and it is sure to further the image of these wave warriors.

John Kirk-Anderson

BOOK & MAGAZINE CATTLEDOG Sea Kayaking, Canoeing & Rafting

Due to a downturn in the coal industry on the West Coast, the editor has reluctantly comes to terms with parting with some of his duplicate titles, in order to maintain his paddling habit. A cattledog of 30 new and secondhand titles, plus half a set of 'Sea Kayaker' Magazines is available on request. The cattledog can be sent via cybermail, fax or if you don't want your better half to know you are looking at X Rated information that may lead to spending time away from the family, I will mail in a plain brown envelope. See inside cover for editor's address.

19 No. 81 June - July 1999

MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: Helen Woodward, 82 Hutcheson St. Blenheim.

Photo: John Kirk-Anderson