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PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

10 Top Experiences ...... 4 MARK WEBSTER

4 Welcome to 10 -Leste ...... 11 TOP Need to Know ...... 12 EXPERIENCES If You Like...... 14 Month by Month ...... 16 Itineraries ...... 18 Diving & Snorkelling ...... 20 COUNTRY/REGIONALCOUNOUNTRY/REGIONALAL SHOESTRING PHRASEBOOKPHRRASEBOB OKO • TheTh originalii l • Big trip Welcome to Diving & Snorkelling Sitting at the southwest corner of the , the north coast of Timor-Leste and Atauro Tour de Timor ...... 23 1 has some of the best diving going. The reefs are pristine and the sea life is as plentiful as it is Comprehensive • Multicountry diverse, Smiling, from nudibranchs friendly to turtles people to schooling will trevally. The other good news is that most of it can • Timor- be seenwelcome on shore you dives. toFor theirthose that country don’t dive an– thed snorkelling is also some of the best in the word. See p 20 . all it has to offer. Make sure you • Adventurous • Maximise budget Dili Marathon ...... 27 Leste take them up on it.

Adventure Awaits Year-Round Timor-Leste richly rewards those who venture to its mountainous interior for trekkin Regions at a Glance ...... 30 hot springs, dense jungles and raging rivers. Getting there is a major part of the adventur whether by vehicle, mountain bike, foot or even Timor pony – however, it is well worth th eՖ ort. OՖ shore, you’ll À nd Timor-Leste’s greatest treasures in its myriad dive spots. Many these are unnamed, but Dili has excellent dive companies ready to help lead the way. Swi a few metres from the beach and there are spectacular drop-oՖ s. The reefs are among th most ecologically diverse on the planet. Surfers should note that the south coast also has breaks waiting to be named. And T o p E v e n t s exploring remote islands is your thing, cross the Wetar Strait to Atauro, and keep a loo 16 out for migrating whales on the way over. For those who want to take on the world’s toug est bike race, sign up for the Tour de Timor. And if you really want remote, just make fo D i l i E a s t o f D i l i Oecussi, the minute enclave in West Timor. Events 333 Beaches 333 Month Tour de Timo Natural Beauty Everywhere You Look Looking for other travel resources? Diving Diving 333 333 Dili Maratho has jagged mountains, green valleys, thundering rivers, rich marshes and pla tations of coՖ ee, fruit and rice. There are kilometres of silky white beaches, where you Dining 333 Trekking 333 arrival will increase the population by 100%. by On a clear day from the nation’s highest peak, Mt Ramelau, you can see both coasts wit Sunset Fair, a slight head turn. Beach at the eastern tip of Timor is nothing less than paradise. short outrigger ride will take you to , the quintessential deserted tropical islan Nativity ScenThen again you don’t have to stray far from Dili to get a sense of the natural beauty: pull u Month a chair on the beach and enjoy the sunset. Whale-watch Events Beaches A Turbulent History & a Bright Future December Almost 40 years after the Portuguese departed Timor-Leste a colonial Á avour still lingers Dili hosts, or is the The white sandy pockets of Dili, Baucau, Maubara and Balibo, just to name a few. Reminders of the Indon sian occupation and the violence of the 1999 independence referendum are also visible, bu start and À nish line, beaches on the the Timorese are getting on with rebuilding their nation. The charm and grace of the peop embody the seemingly unlimited potential of the country. This tiny nation will fascina for all of Timor- north coast that those ready to meet the challenge. Leste’s events, lie east of Dili are including the Dili amazing, and most January May Jun The year begins with East The start of the dry With gr Marathon and Tour of the time you will Timorese heading to the season and the visitors’ interna de Timor. Its not all have them to your- beach for New Year’s Day season. For the next six is the b hard work; you can self. For a real slice celebrations. Many of the months Timor-Leste visitors expats are still on leave receives the bulk of its and boo also have a night of paradise, head to tft dth t iit itibtt l ll h out at the Sunset Tutuala’s beach. Fair. Diving Diving Some of Timor- Some of Timor- Leste’s most Leste’s best diving renowned dive is right in Dili, over- sites can be found looked by Embassy within an hour or Row. You don’t have so from Dili. Rock to go far to see an walls, schools of array of marine life Àsh and pristine

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 101 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine TIMOR-LESTE can make sense of what you see

Timor-Leste Today ...... 102 History ...... 105 Lonely Planet in numbers population per sq km The People ...... 115 TIMOR-LESTE USA UK 70 12 100,000,000 190+ Environment ...... 120 languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered 13th century 14th ce by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Living & Working in ≈ 32 people Chinese and Javanese The Tet on our Thorn Tree guide traders visit the immigrate Timor-Leste ...... 126 island in search of (they ar travel forum sandalwood and to have c beeswax, although Malaka onLeste it could have been Peninsula as early as the 7th in the fert STAY IN TOUCH century. lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet

Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

timor-leste-east-timor-3-cover.indd 2 3/05/2011 4:41:37 PM Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 32 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE p89

Dili p34 #_ East of Dili West p58 COUNTRY/REGIONALCOUNOUNTRY/REGIONALof DiliAL SHOESTRING PHRASEBOOKPHRRASEBOB OKO Big trip • TheTh originalii l p74 South • • Comprehensive of Dili • Multicountry • Adventurous p81 • Maximise budget

Oecussi Lookingp93 for other travel resources?

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ers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenses. Directory A–Z ...... 134 Doctors may expect pay- ment in cash. LonelyTransport Planet ...... in numbers 141 Recommended Health ...... 145 Vaccinations 70 12 100,000,000Specialised travel-medicine190+ clinics are your best source languagesLanguage spoken ...... seconds pass 152 Lonely Planet guidebooksof information; they stockcountries all covered available vaccines and will be rrying able to give speciÀ c recom- by our writers between posts sold, and still countingbe sure by a Lonely Planet mendations for you and your Index ...... 162 letter trip. The doctors will take into on our Thorn Tree edical guide account such factors as past a heart vaccination history, the length Map Legend ...... travel forum 167 py of of your trip, activities you may efore be undertaking and underly-

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ lonelyplanet %03 THIS8379 EDITION8000, fax WRITTEN 03 8379 AND8111 RESEARCHED BY Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes Rodney Cocks environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

timor-leste-east-timor-3-cover.indd 2 15/04/2011 9:53:43 AM › Timor-Leste

125°E

Atauro Island Escape from Dili and relax at an eco-resort (p89)

8°S

\# Kokar \# Biquele Tara man a \# \# Kalabahi Atauro Pulau \# Alor Island Atauro Dili Berau \# Enjoy delicious seafood on the beachfront (p50) Wetar Strait rait

bar St Dili Dili Om Ponta Ponta DILI Sia Airport#– #_ Gu Ilo #\ Liquiçá #\ S A W N S E A Ilo #\ Ponta Ponta #\ #\ #\ Dare Carimbala Bazartete Acoilo #\ #\ AILEU Maubara LIQUIÇÁ Gleno #\ Ermera #\ Atabae Oecussi #\ #\ Hatolina Maubisse #\ R #\ Mt Saboria Explore mountains and Letetoho #\ R Hatubuilico mud volcanoes (p93) BOBONARO Atsabe #\ Mt Ramelau Batugade #\ Atapupu #\ ERMERA 9°S #\ #\ Ainaro #\ Balibo Maliana #\ #\ Marobo Same Bobonaro #\ AINARO #\ Hatudo Atambua #\

Lolotoe #\ #\ Zumalai #\ Pantemakassar #\ Fatolulie COVA LIMA #\ Fohorem OECUSSI #\ Suai #\ Tilomar

#\ Kefamenanu

Mt Ramelau See the sunrise from Timor- NUSA Leste’s highest peak (p84) TENGGARA #\ Weoe TIMUR

#\ Soe 125°E Uhak Djeru \# \# Wesiri Wekri Top Experiences › Hila \# Sakir \# Lioppa \# Lalikki 127°E Ilpokil \# \# Nausan Pulau MALUKU Wetar \# Mahuan \# Airpanas

\# Hatutau Dirkuun \# \# Kara North Coast 8°S Indulge in world-class diving Pulau and snorkelling (p70) Kisar

Wetar Strait See migrating whales and dolphins (p46) Ponta Luturo Vati Lautem \# \# Ponta Ponta \#\# Com Aimoko \# Bondura Vila \# Mano Tu t u a l a Salazar \# Baucau#– \# Baucau Jaco Manatuto \# LAUTEM \# Airport Laga Island \# BAUCAU \# Luro Quelica Venilale \# \# R \# MANATUTO Baguia Mt Matebian \# Lore \# Uato \# Iliamar Laclubar R Mt Mundo Carabar \# Perdido \# \# Lacluta Uatolari VIQUEQUE \# Loi Hunu Barique \# \# Viqueque

\# Ponta Beaco Fato \# Berliu Tutuala Beach 9°S \# Alas Soak up a slice of paradise MANUFAHI (p72)

T I M O R S E A

Dili Compete in the Dili ‘City of Peace’ Marathon (p27)

ELEVATION

3500m 2500m 2000m 1500m 1000m 500m e 040km0 # 020miles

126°E 10°S 9

Foreword

Timor-Leste is fortunate to now be one of the safest countries in the world. Increasing num- bers of intrepid travellers are being drawn to Timor-Leste for its beautiful seas, majestic mountains, native forests and rich cultures, as well as to partake in a range of adventurous international events. I am pleased to launch the 3rd edition of the Lonely Planet guide for Timor-Leste, which will serve for many as an authoritative reference to experience the boundless wonders of this rare country. Timor-Leste will delight visitors with its fascinating mix of history, culture and natural beauty. Our beaches, reefs, coff ee plantations, forests and mountains, all in a pristine un- touched natural state, will astound you. Travellers visiting now will share in a unique and historical moment, experiencing a country that is stepping into a peaceful and democratic reality. The ‘Dili, City of Peace’ campaign has used a series of international sporting and cultural events since 2009 to promote peace in Timor-Leste. Two such annual events, the Tour de Timor and the Dili ‘City of Peace’ Marathon, encourage people to visit Timor-Leste and build bridges between nations. However, the most important eff ect is to off er hope, opportunity and experience for everyone that encounters these exciting events. They showcase the na- tion and allow everyone to see Timor-Leste in ways not possible before. I invite you to discover Timor-Leste. You will fi nd the Timorese people both welcoming and generous. While in Dili, the ‘City of Peace’, you are most welcome to visit my Presidential Palace, which I have specifi cally designed for the people with free wi-fi internet, a library, museum displays and playgrounds for the children. I hope you thoroughly enjoy your time in Timor-Leste and we look forward to your re- turn journey to our shores in the future. José Ramos-Horta President of the Republic Timor-Leste

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

DILI ...... 34 Loes River & Atabae ...... 76 Batugade ...... 77 EAST OF DILI ...... 58 INLAND ROAD ...... 77 DILI TO BAUCAU ...... 59 Ermera ...... 78 Metinaro ...... 59 Atsabe ...... 78 Manleo ...... 60 Marobo ...... 78 Manatuto ...... 60 Road to Zumalai ...... 78 Laleia ...... 60 Bobonaro ...... 78 Vemasse ...... 60 Maliana...... 78 Baucau ...... 61 Balibo ...... 80 Osolata ...... 63 SOUTH OF BAUCAU ...... 64 SOUTH OF DILI ...... 81 Venilale ...... 64 Dili to Aileu ...... 82 Ossu ...... 64 Aileu ...... 82 Loi Hunu ...... 64 Maubisse ...... 83 Viqueque ...... 65 Mt Ramelau ...... 84 Beyond Viqueque ...... 66 Aituto ...... 85 EAST OF BAUCAU ...... 66 Same ...... 85 Laga ...... 66 Betano ...... 85 Baguia ...... 66 East of Betano ...... 86 Laivai ...... 67 Ainaro ...... 86 Lautem ...... 68 Zumalai ...... 87 Com ...... 68 Suai ...... 87 Desa Rasa ...... 68 Around Suai ...... 88 Lospalos ...... 68 ATAURO ISLAND . . . .89 Tutuala ...... 71 Around the Island ...... 90 Tutuala Beach ...... 72 Jaco Island ...... 73 OECUSSI ...... 93 Pantemakassar ...... 95 WEST OF DILI ...... 74 Pantemakassar to NORTH COAST ROAD . . . . . 75 Oesilo ...... 98 Tibar ...... 75 Aipelo ...... 75 Liquiçá ...... 75 Maubara ...... 76 18

Itiner- Whether you have six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet .com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Atauro Island #• Lautem Com •# #• Tu tu a l a #f •# Baucau É #• É #f DILI É •# É #_ #• Manatuto Jaco

É Island

#• Hatubuilico #• Maubisse R Mt Ramelau

TIMOR SEA

10 Days A Taste of Timor-Leste

Spend a couple of days exploring the delights of Dili, and climb up to the iconic Christ Statue on Cape Fatucama. Head east along the coast via Manatuto to laid-back Bau- cau. This place has real Portuguese fl avour, particularly if you stay at the fi ne old pousada. The next day, continue east through Lautem to Tutuala, perched on a cliff top up at the island’s easternmost end. The amazing beach off ers a choice of two eco-resorts, where you can take an outrigger to Jaco Island. Head west again with an overnight stop at the beach at Com. The next day drive back to Dili and up into the central mountains for a night at Maubisse, where you can relax at a Portuguese pousada. From here you can take a day trek up to the summit of Mt Ramelau, the highest mountain in Timor-Leste. Alternatively, stay overnight in Hatubuilico and make the trek in the early hours to be at the top for sunrise. Return to Dili for the night and the next day head out to Atauro Island for a night or two. This trip may take longer using public transport. PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 19

,

#• #f Loi Loi Jaco Jaco #• Jaco Tu t u a l a Island Ainaro Mt Ra-

for a few

É É your trip Lospalos Mt Mate- ff , and , #• with its old . Use Baucau . Use

Com É , with its pretty , with its pretty #• Lospalos Com for a slice of his- , overlooking the to climb Tutuala Suai

Baucau and then head west

É É then on to Dili. Maubisse to Balibo Atauro Island Baguia Dili TIMOR SEA É to the eastern end of the Timor-Leste Explorer South & West Loop ff Maliana and the eco-resort at #• R , close to the Indonesian bor- , close to the Indonesian Hatubuilico pousada, Mt Matebian #• Baucau É Bobonaro to Venilale #• #•

. Return to Dili and cap o

. Next stop is . Next É É , where you can venture into the ‘Lost R . Further east, explore . Further Loi Hunu Loi With three to four weeks, it’s possible With three to four weeks, it’s to visit almost everywhere, especially Same Batugade From Dili it’s o Dili it’s From Venilale Mundo if you have your own wheels. Start a with if you have in couple of days Three to Weeks Four Timor-Leste Explorer to inland to Turn der. tory, and on to tory, Plains. The head nextverdant Nanura day south via villages and beach, then turn east and head back into the mountains via either or melau Portuguese Portuguese island, stopping along the spectacular coast before overnighting in by heading out to nights. Hunu as a base for multinight trips to the colonial relic of Baguia can also Perdido. of Mundo World’ to thebe reached from Baucau, gateway former resistance stronghold of bian Island the stunning beach of Perdido

, #• Manatuto Ain- Bali- Bobo- Liquiçá Ermera gives you

. Alterna-

. Meander . Meander É Betano Hatubuilico #• Same Dili and Dare

is probably the

É É

É É #• Maubisse

#•

É É

É #f É #• #•

#_ Maliana

É É Gleno #• #• Ainaro R DILI and its Australian War and its Australian War ÉÉ Zumalai #• #• and its WWII history. and its WWII history. Island Zumalai Mt Ramelau #• Atauro É É Mt É . Gleno #• Dare É #• ‚ É with its impressive fort. At Ramelau Hatubuilico #• . Going you via Same will allow Ermera #•

#• ‚ Betano Liquiçá and head for the hills and onto

É Suai Bobonaro

É before heading east to either Maliana Same #• . The drive to Maubara Balibo Maubara or Travelling south or west of Travelling a plethora of options. Heading west youa plethora of options. Heading ee country through Suai #• and Maliana Then head south from Maliana to Then head south from Maliana ff Batugade to explore eventually arriving at the coast road to the west pass- take tively, ing through the coastal towns of aro can head up into the mountains and Timor co

One Week One Loop The South & West most spectacular in the country. Overnight most spectacular in the country. in Stop at the small village of Batugade and naro to seefor a night, rising early the next day the sunrise from back down the central mountains through Maubisse memorial, and into Dili. bo 20

Diving & S n o r k e l l i n g Best Dive Sites Planning Tasitolu (p 45 ) An array of fi sh and critters to be seen. Your Diving & Dirt Track (p 71 ) A spectacular wall dive with an abundance of marine life. Snorkelling Trip Manta Cove (p 91 ) Swim among rays and When to Go massive groupers at this steep drop-off . Diving is possible year-round, although the conditions are smoother and the water Best Type of Diving clearer during the May to November dry sea- Boat You will need to do boat dives to reach son when visibility is typically 20m to 35m. nearly all Atauro Island dive sites. During the wet season, from December to Shore Nearly all of the diving on the north April, the visibility is still 15m to 20m. Febru- coast is accessible from the beach. ary is probably the worst month for visibility with some sites aff ected, to varying degrees, by silt run-off from the swollen rivers com- Courses ing from the torrential downpours. It picks A full range of PADI courses is available, up again by mid- to late March, and in April from basic open-water through to instructor visibility is once again excellent. September courses. Courses start at US$255 and are is great for manta rays and, if you are lucky, conducted in Dili by several operators (p22 ). whale sharks. Some dive sites can experi- ence strong currents and are more suitable Costs for advanced, experienced divers. The water Dive Safaris Dive operators can design a fl uctuates between 26°C and bespoke dive safari for you ranging from 28°C year-round. hundreds of dollars up to thousands. Diving Single shore dives start at US$40. Why is the Diving So Snorkelling Free, unless you go with one of Good? the dive operators (from US$20). The diving in Timor-Leste is world class, thanks to a perfect mix of cool, deep water, Websites undamaged reefs, underfi shed marine life www.compassadventuretours.com and its prime location in the Coral Triangle. www.divetimor.com Ocean trenches that reach several kilome- www.free fl owdiving.blogspot.com tres deep yield cool thermoclimes that reju- www.timordiver.net PLAN YOUR TRIP DIVING & SNORKELLING 21 sh fi sh in the fi c Region. The Coral Tri- fi ride on the backs of turtles. of ride on the backs Never Never rst with one of the local operators to to operators the local with one of rst fi Accessible Diving & SafarisDive diving is not only spectacular Timor-Leste’s but also very accessible. The bulk of the reg- ularly visited dive sites are located either in world. The Coral Triangle Timor-Leste lies in the southwest corner of which also in- the pristine Coral Triangle, cludes the tropical marine waters of Indo- New the Philippines, Papua nesia, Malaysia, Scientists Guinea and the Solomon Islands. believe that each eco-region contains at least 500 species of -building corals. The Tri- biogeo- angle encompasses portions of two graphic regions: the Indonesian–Philippines Timor-Leste lies) and the Far Region (where Southwestern Paci angle is recognised as the global epicentre and has the highestof marine biodiversity in the world, with 76% ofcoral diversity coral species found there. 805 the world’s coral-reef 37% of the world’s Moreover, which is can also be found in the Triangle, of coral-reef the highest diversity s. ff shing fi shing has fi sh. Pelagics (open- sh. Pelagics fi rst before going it alone. going before rst fi which is also relatively The dive operators in East Timor are not only highly experienced divers, but also but also divers, highly experienced only not Timor are in East operators The dive Minimise your disturbance of marine animals. marine animals. of disturbance your Minimise Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and any litter you may find as well. as well. find may you litter rubbish and any home all your take that you Ensure fish. feed not Do Practise and maintain proper control. Major damage can be done by be done by can damage Major control. buoyancy proper and maintain Practise marine archaeo- loot or to or shells, or buy coral collect to the temptation Resist Be conscious of your fins. Even without contact, the surge from fin strokes near near fin strokes from surge the without contact, Even fins. your of Be conscious Avoid touching or standing on living marine organisms or dragging equipment equipment or dragging organisms on living marine or standing touching Avoid

RESPONSIBLE DIVING Please consider the following tips when diving, and help preserve the ecology and beauty of Timor-Leste’s largely untouched reefs; Responsible diving also means safe diving. Those planning in diving in East Timor must ensure that have adequate insurance coverage, and should consider bespoke coverage such as DAN insurance (www.diversalertnetwork.org). well extremely the sites know They a decade. over Timor for been diving in East have planning are If you currents. such as strong with them, associated and the diving the site it is worth independently, dive to yourself familiarise Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life. to threat a serious are in particular Plastics divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef. with and colliding fast too descending divers sites. logical the reef can damage delicate organisms. Take care not to kick up clouds of sand, sand, of kick up clouds to not care Take organisms. delicate damage can the reef organisms. smother which can across the reef. across » » » » » » » This perfect mix treats divers to a colour- The sea life is as plentiful as it is diverse, sh or sponge that are so plentiful in Timor- not started of the dive sites, and around any supplies are currently in equilibrium with what the locals eat and sell to foreigners in restaurants. Dili’s soft of hard and well as a corals as ful array vivid assortment of reef water species such as tuna, bonito and along are regularly encountered, mackerel) dol- with harmless reef sharks, manta rays, phins and dugongs. The runs close to the shore along much of the north coast, wade in and swim only to and divers have to reach spectaculara few strokes drop-o never caught on because explosives were so tightly controlled during the Indonesian occupation. from nudibranchs to turtles to schooling around halfway Scientists travel trevally. of the species ofthe world to see one or two fi Leste. Large-scale commercial venate the coral life, untouched compared with Timor-Leste’s and the Phil- neighbours, such as Indonesia ippines. The practice of dynamite tting mask is essential tting fi sh. fi There are two ways you are going to be you ways There are two One of the great things about diving in and it also means you can go snorkelling at go snorkelling and it also means you can time.any either under yourable to go snorkelling: of the dive opera- own steam or with one particu- tors. Going independent is easy, a vehicle. As the reef hugslarly if you have the north coast, pulling over on one of the deserted beaches for a look can prove to be an underwater paradise. There is also to be had at the existinggood snorkelling dive sites. Ask around where you are stay- ing, as most people are happy to share their div- with like spots with you. Just favourite ing, your buddy close and be careful of keep currents. Timor-Leste is that with the prevalence of shore diving, your nondiving family and friends can join you snorkelling. All the dive operators are comfortable taking nondivers on the trips to the dive sites for a reduced an amazing ex- can still have fee. Snorkellers perience, as a lot of the coral and marine life is also accessible to them. Easy Snorkelling who comes to Timor-Leste Everyone should go snorkelling, is ev- and a mask and It is always accessory. must-have ery season’s mask and snorkelgood to bring your own dive operators canwith you. Although the supply them, a well- owdiving.blogspot.com; Av de Portugal) de Av owdiving.blogspot.com; fl 723 7092; www.divetimor.com; Av de Portugal) Av www.divetimor.com; 7092; 723 723 0966; [email protected]; Av dos dos Av 0966; [email protected]; 723 % % 723 4614; www.free 4614; 723 will cater for your (Map p42; (Map p38; % ort for their rich coral ff (Map p42; nd a full suite of PADI courses nd a full suite of PADI fi sh, colourful corals, marine crit- fi er in Dili. Courses start US$255 at ff Mártires de Pátria) Next to Tiger Fuel. Tiger to Next de Pátria) Mártires Free Flow Compass Charters Compass Dive Timor Lorosae DILI DIVE OPERATORS DIVE DILI There are three dive operators inDili. All have excellent safety records, and are run by friendly people who have experience inrunning courses and diving in Timor- Leste. Do your research and contact them for what you are after. They will be able to tailor any trip, down to requests to see certain species of

Boat dives can access the sites in and Boat dives can access coast, the Dili dive along the east Further Those who want to learn to dive in East ters and dugongs surround you. Theters and dugongs surround diving is so more time is spent seeing not deep either, marine activity than decompressing. rather around Dili, in addition to the underwater If you can get aparadise of Atauro Island. these group of six or eight divers together, boat dives are similarly priced to those from the shore. operators can arrange dive safaris to sites This Island. and Jaco around Com, Tutuala can be done by vehicle or boat, or you can go by car and meet the boat there. The expense increases for these trips, but the dive sites are well worth the e Dili or near Maubara in the west. The in the driveDili or near Maubara of Dili is partout to the sites to the east of above the sea be- the adventure, as you rise sites. All of thesefore descending to the dive the shore. Drivesites can be accessed from in the shade, gearup to the beach, unload Within minutes, up and walk into the water. schools of and include dives at some of the country’s best sites. Discuss your requirements with the dive operators who will be able to put together a package that and sea life. Timor will on o needs and budget.

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP DIVING & SNORKELLING OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Rodney Cocks As a boy growing up in Melbourne, Rodney saw ‘Free East Timor’ graffi tied on a railway bridge and wondered what it was all about. Nearly 20 years later he arrived in a liberated country just after independence in 2002, as an Australian Army Offi cer in the UN Peacekeeping . Rodney later helped raise funds and implement several charitable projects in some of the poorer districts. Research- ing this book again confi rmed the advice he gives to all people travelling to East Timor: get out of Dili and explore! He has been to one-quarter of the countries in the world and East Timor remains one of his favourites. He has also worked on Lonely Planet titles Afghanistan and Pakistan & the Karakorum Highway.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 3rd edition – July 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 165 5 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2010 Photographs © as indicated 2010 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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