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Home , Fishing industry, Fulton Fish Market

and the

ANDREW W. ANDERSON

FISH is about i8 percent protein, lesterol, a waxy alcohol, may be de- which is complete, well bal- posited on the inner walls of arteries anced, and not easily afíected when it is present in too high concen- by the usual cooking methods. It is 85 trations in the blood serum. Some re- percent to 95 percent digestible. searchers believe there is a connection An average serving furnishes more between the presence of excess choles- than enough animal protein to meet terol in the blood and the occurrence the usual daily need for protein. Fish of atherosclerosis, a common form of supply 5 percent to 10 percent of the heart disease. Nation's supply of animal protein for The vitamin content of fish varies. human food requirements. An average serving of 3.5 ounces of The amount of fat in fish is less than cooked and , which I percent (in , , whiting, are fat fish, provides about 10 percent rockfish, and sole) to 20 percent (in of the daily requirements of vitamins salmon, mackerel, , and but- A and D. A similar serving of either fat terfish). The fat is easily digested and or lean fish would satisfy about i o per- is used readily by the body tissues. cent of the thiamine, 15 percent of the Continuing research has established riboflavin, and 50 percent of the niacin the nutritive value of some of the un- requirements. saturated fatty acids peculiar to some The content of the edible fish. part of most fish includes satisfactory These fatty acids are unstable and sources of magnesium, , reactive compounds. They are desig- iron, , and iodine. nated as unsaturated because some of (clams, , , oys- the possible chemical bonds holding ters, , and ) has an abun- the constituent atoms together are not dance of these —about as much filled. Their inclusion in animal diets as milk. The softened bones in canned promotes growth and reduces the level fish, which are good to eat, are good of cholesterol in the blood serum. Cho- sources of calcium and phosphorus. An 477248°—59- -24 353 354 YEARBOOK OF 1959

U. S. GRADE BLUE

I WHITE

RED

Shield using red, white, and blue back- Shield with plain background. ground or other colors appropriate for label.

U.S. GRADE A

Statement enclosed within a shield.

These symbols appear on many product labels. They indicate that the product has been processed under super- vision of a Government inspector.

average serving of six supplies and are suitable for use in diets in more than the daily need of iron and which the amount of sodium is kept copper. low. Many species have sodium values Standards for the fishery products in well within prescribed dietary limits of the became available to 100 milligrams per loo grams of fish the domestic in 1956 FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRT 355 on a voluntary basis. They were a sig- When it is more efiiicient to do so nificant development and a useful mar- (because of geographical location or keting aid. the production of both fishery and Standardization of products and the agricultural products in one plant) accompanying inspection and certifica- the Department of Agriculture and tion improve processing; make buying, the Department of the Interior have selling, and distributing more efiBcient; agreed to arrange for a single inspector aid in settling disputes as to prices, from either agency to certify the grade quality, storage, and transportation; and condition of either agricultural permit better comparison of or fishery products. supplies and prices; make possible the The fee for the voluntary inspection sale and purchase of fishery products and grading is paid by the buyer or in exchanges for future de- seller who requests the . livery; furnish a more reliable basis for Three kinds of inspection and grad- loans; make possible more ade- ing services were available in 1959. quate production-control programs; One is continuous inspection by an and achieve premium prices for certi- inspector stationed in the plant during fied premium products. the operating hours. He makes daily The first standards were for grades reports to the on plant for frozen fried fish sticks, a new prod- operations, inspects the product, and uct that had zoomed in 2 years to a issues certificates showing the grades. production of 50 million pounds annu- Another is the sampling of specific ally. But great variations in quality lots by an inspector. He takes repre- and prices resulted in unprofitable op- sentative samples of the product, ex- erations and a sharp decline in the amines them as requested or for com- number of processing plants. pliance with the appropriate standard, The remaining processors accepted and issues an official cerdficate. the standards without delay. They The third is inspection of unoiïicially promptly asked for continuous plant drawn samples. Samples submitted by inspection, rather than only certifica- a processor or a buyer are inspected, tion of one lot at a time. They thereby and a certificate as to the quality of confirmed the value of prior research those particular samples is issued. as to weight changes in cooking, losses Standards for grades were effective in cutting the sticks from the blocks, or were being developed in 1959 for detecting bones by X-ray, and devel- frozen fried sticks, frozen blocks from oping a method for determining the which the sticks are cut, frozen raw amount of breading. breaded shrimp, salmon and halibut The first program had to do with the steaks, frozen breaded and unbrcaded development of the standards by the portions, and one or more varieties Department of the Interior and pro- of frozen fillets. More and more proces- mulgation, inspection, and certifica- sors are accepting the voluntary pro- tion by the Department of Agriculture. gram, and the promulgation of three The entire program became a respon- standards a year probably will be sibility in 1958 of the Department of required. thus can look the Interior. forward to an increasingly greater The fishery products that meet the variety of foods of known quality. official standards can carry the United Federal specifications for food prod- States shields on their labels. These ucts aid Government buyers and symbols indicate the grade of the industry suppliers by standardizing product and show that it was packed items and packaging; reducing the under the continuous supervision of a numbers of sizes, kinds, and types; trained Government inspector. They permitting competitive bidding on an assure the that he is buying equitable basis; and serving as part of a good product. a legal contractual document. 35^ TEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 Catch of Fish and Shellfish^ 1921-1957

Billion Pounds

1921 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 55 "57 World Catch of Fishj CrustaceanSj Mollusks^ Etc. . By Countries, 1957 BilUon Pound, : 7 ' ( S Ç ) 1 3 1 1 12 mm. "^^ "**" ^^^ The United Status ^^H ^^^ ^^^ (Mainland) "^^ ^^^ ^^^ U. S. S, R mam '''™* ""^ ■H Norway ^^m ^^^ India ^^M ^^ mm ^^^_ ■ Canada ^^^^ ^^^H mHi Germany, Federal Republic Indonesia H^HI HI IB. _ -'^'' -^ Denmark ■ France 1 Portugal Philippines South Ä Angola Ä i Union of South Africa 1 ^ North Korea Netherlands J Pakistan South West Africa Thailand Italy China (Taiwan) Sweden Malaya, Federation of 1 Other ~"^" "" FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY 357 The Bureau of Commercial year, but almost 40 percent is taken of the Department of the Interior has in June, July, and August. assigned to its laboratory in East California caught the most fish— Boston its responsibilities in this field. mostly , mackerel, and . Men at the laboratory determine The fish taken in greatest volume— needs of agencies, evaluate the prod- more than 35 percent of the total ucts, conduct research, and prepare catch—was , a herringlike the specifications. Fifteen specifica- fish of the Atlantic and Gulf coastal tions for various forms of clams, - waters. It is never seen on a dinner , fresh and frozen fish, oysters, plate in recognizable form. Most con- salmon, sardines, scallops, shrimp, sumers have never heard its name. and tuna were in effect or were Yetj processed into fishmeal, it is a proposed in 1959. small but important item in feed for chickens and hogs. THE STATISTICAL DATA available on Shrimp has become the most valu- the operations of the fishing industry able fishery product at the 's are less comprehensive than those for level. Salmon and tuna, the former most other industries. The Branch of leaders, alternate in second and third Statistics of the Bureau of Commercial places. Fisheries must collect and disseminate Fishermen fish mostly in the terri- most of the needed information be- torial waters or the high seas, directly cause only a few States keep close ofí" our coasts. Ten percent of our of the activities in their fishing total catch was taken by the United ports and centers. This is a States ofi' Canada, Mexico, sizable task, because American fisher- Panama, Ecuador, and Peru. Tuna men take 10 percent of the world's brought back to southern California catch. from Peru and Ecuador involve a Field agents supplement the available round trip of about 8 thousand miles State data with their own interviews for the famous tuna clippers. A still to determine each year the number of smaller catch—5 percent—comes from fishermen (145,300 in 1957), the value our lakes and rivers, mainly the Great of their catch (almost i million dollars Lakes and the Mississippi River and daily), and the number of fishing its tributaries. craft of all kinds (84,050). They re- Nearly 10 million baited hooks ported there were 100 thousand shore- awaited hungry or curious fish in 1957, workers in 4,225 plants and, in all, but took only 9 percent of the catch, ^^^ thousand persons engaged directly as compared to the 46 percent cap- or indirectly in the catching, process- tured in purse seines. A purse seine ing, and merchandising of fish and encircles whole schools and entraps in such allied industries as shipbuild- the fish when the bottom of the net is ing, gear manufacture, and servicing. pursed, or closed. Only 53 percent of the catch was The average person in the United used for human food. The rest became States in 1958 ate 10.4 pounds offish. meal for chickens, for industrial (Japanese and Scandinavians average use or export to Western Europe for well over 40 pounds each; consumers use in margarine, canned food for in the United Kingdom eat about 22 pets, or bait to catch still more fish. pounds of fish each. A Canadian eats Of the catch for human food, 57 more than 13 pounds.) percent was utilized fresh or frozen, Of the 10.4 pounds, fresh and 40 percent was canned, and 3 percent frozen fish accounted for 5.6 pounds, was marketed as cured products— and canned fish for 4.2 pounds. Only salted, smoked, or otherwise preserved. 0.6 pound was cured products. The At least 5 percent of the catch of fish consumption of tuna, the most popular for food is taken each month of the canned fish among Americans, more CO

The Commercial Fisheries—1958 CD ROUND WEIGHT MARKETED WEIGHT Millions of Pounds Millions of Pounds

570

CATCH 4.63 billion pounds

WASTE 725 to O from fresh and processed fish o >; used for byproducts MEAL 456 o

OIL 160 CD ^^ The round and ?narketed weights shown ^^p ^^ do not include imported items processed in ^^^ CONDENSED ?5 ^J the United States. The marketed tveights FISH SOLUBLES 197 ^g listed do not include fresh bait, fresh animal r^^ HOMOGENIZED f^^ food prepared from tvaste, shell products, ^^^ CONDENSED FISH 51 S^l or other miscclla^ieous byproducts. FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRT 359 than tripled since 1937—to 1.79 may be obtained by requesting from pounds per capita. the Bureau of Commercial Fisheries a The use of canned salmon dropped free copy of Fishery Leaflet 432— from 2.43 pounds in 1937 to 1.07 "Fishery Statistical Publications of the pounds in 1958. Shrimp in all forms Bureau of Commercial Fisheries." (0.95 pound) and fillets of cod, had- Programs to develop markets for fish dock, and perch (1.49 pounds) seek to lift the domestic consumption each doubled its per capita consump- of fishery products closer to the level tion in the same period. of such direct competitors as poultry A preliminary review of the catch, products. employment of equipment and men, The of the Branch of Market consumption, prices, the manufactured Development includes efforts to en- fishery products, values and invest- courage the use of fishery products in ments, foreign , market patterns, school lunch, institutional, and con- and the world catch is published in sumer menus; forecast marketing con- April of each year. It is Fishery Leaflet ditions; develop foreign markets; find 393—"Fisheries of the United States new uses for underutilized species; and and Alaska." Free copies may be had prepare such educational materials as by writing to the Bureau of Commer- recipes and motion pictures. cial Fisheries, Department of the Gluts of some fishery products occur, Interior, Washington 25, D.G. but they are more readily avoided than surpluses of agricultural products. Of- MARKET NEWS SERVICE offices are ten the fishermen can cease harvesting maintained in seven of the country's one kind of fish and shift to catching main fishing ports and marketing another variety. When surpluses do centers. What these office staffs and occur, market-development specialists their reporters in neighboring ports work with industry to try to increase see and hear is reported the same day consumption. Cooperation is sought in "Fishery Products Reports." Copies from large users of fishery products, are mailed to more than 9 thousand such as groups of food stores and res- persons in the fishing industry, , taurant associations. Fish in o ver supply companies, transportation are listed among the plentiful food agencies, research , serv- products. ice industries, and others who follow Foreign markets have been surveyed the detailed daily operations of the on a spot basis. Fishery attachés have industry. Information is given about been established by the Department landings of vessels, fish exchange and of State in Mexico City and Tokyo, wholesale prices, rail and truck - and others may be sent elsewhere. ments, imports, cold storage move- Finding new ideas for underutilized ments, frozen and canned packs, and species is difficult, because launching a prices. Conditions in other ports and new product is costly. The first eco- markets are summarized. nomic uses consequently often are in- The reports help stabilize the mar- dustrial or for animal feeding rather ket, because the current factual infor- than for human food. Every techno- mation they present kills rumors. Such logical and marketing technique never- an equitable basis for trading has been theless is tried to find a place for the established that buyers and sellers, even product on the consumer's table, be- though in different cities, can use the cause it usually promises greater re- current daily quotation as the contrac- turns to the producer and processor tual price when deliveries are made. and more variety and lower prices to Complete information on the daily the user. market news reports, monthly and an- Recipes are developed by home econ- nual summaries, and the monthly peri- omists in modern laboratory kitchens. odical. Commercial Fisheries Review, The recipes that score highest in palat- 360 TEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 Estimated Value of Fish and Fishery Product sj 1957 At Production, Processing, and Levels

hen RETAILED consumer SI o;i,ooo,ooo

The ORIGLNAL value of fish and shellfish as taken from the waters $351,000,000

\\h PPOCESSED WHCMlSVLI ss;)^ 0 >o 000 i tr h It 1 V83ir 000 000 ability tests are issued in the '''How Those with fins range in size from To Cook " series. Individual cook- the diminutive silversides and white cover the more important spe- bait, which enjoy a good demand in cies, basic fish cookery, and fish cook- 's Fulton around ery for groups of loo persons. Most of Christmastime, to the whales har- the booklets give hints about buying pooned on the high seas. The tiny sil- and information on nutritive values. versides end up fried in deep fat in There is an illustrated publication on batter in typical Mediterranean dishes. how to eat lobsters. Copies of the pub- The best portions of the whales are lications can be had from the Superin- imported as steaks, which are not un- tendent of Documents, Government like beef. Whales, although mammals, Ofiftce, Washington 25, D.C. are responsibilities of the Bureau of They cost little. Commercial Fisheries, because the The two major groups of fish—the term "fish" is usually construed to in- finfish and shellfish—have enough va- clude all aquatic creatures. riety to suit every taste and meet every Mollusks, in the shellfish category, need. There are about 200 commercial include the minute coquina clams, species of fish, but most people are fa- which are found on the Florida miliar with fewer than 20 and recognize beaches and are a main constituent even fewer than that on a dinner plate. of a delicious coquina broth. They FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY 361 United States Supply of Edible Fishery Products 1947-1957, and Estimated Requirements, 1958-1975 Billion Pounds (Kound Weight) 5

If present À percentage of 1 market is maintained

m If present trend ^ is maintained

rxnii IK c \r( H

] ■.»■■■x.iV luvux.v.ti

i iJ.iJ I I f t . f f t,f f Hi I t f f t ,1 t,f 1 I I U-+ n; •)! o 3 :i ) n 0 C) 6 c) 1 u :>

Estimated fishery requirements for 1975 are based on an estimated 30 percent iticrease in population (^approximately 220,000,000 persons') and a corresponding 30 percent increase in consumption of fishery products (approxi- mately 5,900,000,000 pounds). It was estimated that the increase in requirements from 1957 to 1975 would he a straight line progression.

include also a lo-pound bivalve, the foods. Sea urchins, a spiny brittle- goeduck, which is hunted for sport shelled organism, is usually eaten raw. and food with a special shovel at low Sea cucumbers are found in Puget tide in Puget Sound. Sound but are better known as the include the tiny dried and smoked "trepang" or heche crab, which lives inside its namesake. de mer of the South Seas. It often is eaten with raw oysters on Consideration of quality, religion, the half shell. Sometimes partakers or custom are met by the marketing are unaware, but connoisseurs deem of many shellfish—oysters, clams, blue the experience a treat. Oyster crabs crabs, and lobsters—alive in the shell, also are the basis for a delicious if desired. A few have live bisque, although assembling enough trout. Some markets sell live eels and for a meal is a job. . At the other extreme is the small- The oyster, gulped from its shell, bodied, long-legged Alaskan king crab, reaches the consumer with no prepara- with a spread of as much as 5 feet and tion other than a possible last-second a weight of 7 to 10 pounds. dunking in a sauce. The Also among the "shellfish" are frog represents the other extreme. It has legs, turtle steaks, octopus, and . spent months resting in casks, while Then there are the less common slowly aging to the taste, texture. 362 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959

Y) 1 ' /^ * 7 I P^^'sh and frozen fish arc marketed in various forms rUTCbaStng LrUtde j for diifcrcnr uses. Knowing these forms or "cuts" is important in buying iish. The best known are:

WHOLE As they come from the water. Before cooking, must be scaled, and the insides removed, and usually the head, tail, and fins removed. Ask your dealer to do this for you.

DRAWN Whole iish with insides removed. Generally scaled before cooking, and usually the head, tail, and iins removed. Ask your dealer to do this.

DRESSED OR PAN-DRESSED Whole iish with scales and insides removed, usually with head, tail, and fms removed Ready to cook as purchased.

STEAKS Cross-section slices from large dressed fish, Ready to cook as purchased £> mmIT" ^ ■A-TSS\ FILLETS Sides of the iish, cut lengthwise away from the backbone. Ready to cook as purchased. Practically boneless.

STICKS Pieces of iish cut from blocks oí frozen iillets into portions of uniform dimensions, usually about one- half inch wide, 3 inches long, and three-eighths inch deep, and weigh approximately 1 ounce

CANNED HSH Ready for use and includes many varieties of both iish and shellfish

Ask your dealer's bell). When ordering fresh or frozen iish or fore, for whole iish allow about one pound .shelliish tell your dealer how you plan to per person. For dressed iish allow one- serve it. if you wish the head, tail, and half pound per person or three pounds for iins removed from whole or drawn iish--or six people. For steaks, iillets, or sticks, the iish cut in serving-size portions, ask allow one-third pound per person or two your dealer to do it He will also open pounds for six people. oysters or clams ready for serving--or shuck them ready for cooking. How to know good fish. In selecting whole fresh iish, look for Amounts to buy. bright, clear, bulging eyes; gills reddish A serving of iish is generally one-third pink, free from slime or odor; ñrm elastic to one-half pound of edible ñesh There- flesh— springing back when pressed. FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY and saltiness that have made it a less numerous and thoroughgoing than popular tidbit. those of other industries. Fish can be bought in the market The Bureau of Commercial Fisheries in many forms—drawn for baking or has begun to increase its studies of steaked or spread in butterfly the economic position of the fishing for pan-frying or broiling. This min- industry within the national econ- imum amount of dressing satisfies omy—the production, distribution, those who contend that bones left in and consumption of fishery products; add to the flavor. Then there are the economic effect of technological fillets for those who do not want to and biological developments in the pick bones and for children who seem industry; price levels, marketing, com- to prefer their fish portions to be petitive products, and transportation completely edible. rates; and tariff and trade problems. Fish sticks, small pieces about finger Economists have calculated that size and an ounce in weight, need no fishery products increase threefold in preparation other than heating and value from fishermen to retailer—in serving. They were prepared first from 1958 from 370 million dollars to 1,150 cod and haddock, but their success million dollars. They have calculated brought forth sticks that use other that if we in the United States had species. The production of fish por- no fishery resources, 11.4 billion dol- tions has been equally successful be- lars would have to be invested at 4 cause the exact portions enable users percent to equal the 1957 earnings of to exercise the close control of the the industry's fishermen, vessel own- components of a meal required for ers, processors, wholesalers, and the profitable operations. They are sup- retailers. plied in uniform shapes, weights, and Surveys of consumers' preferences sizes to restaurants, industrial cafe- have revealed that 9 of 10 households terias, , and various other serve canned fish—the higher the institutions that serve large numbers income, the greater is the use. of meals. Newer developments are Of special interest to packers of tuna complete entrees or fish dinners, and salmon was the finding that most which need only heating and serving. tuna was eaten by persons 15 to 24 About 40 percent of the food fish years old. The group that ate the most is canned. Canned fish require no salmon was 55 to 59 years old. special handling, and gives Tuna packers were encouraged be- fish a special flavor. For some fish, cause so many consumers of their like tuna, canning is the most satis- products were youthful and therefore factory means of preparation. were prospective customers for years For those who like cured foods, ahead. Salmon packers realized that there are smoked, salted, dried, and their future markets were endangered marinated products, for which fish by major dependence on elderly con- and shellfish seem especially suited. sumers. Presumably this group had Typical are kippered salmon, bone- remained faithful to salmon over the less salted cod, in vinegar or years despite higher prices and the creamed sauce, and . lessened availability that resulted from Complete purchasing information is diminished salmon runs in Alaska and included in the Bureau's Circular 20— the diversion of most of the salmon "Fresh and Frozen Fish Buying Man- pack to our Allies during the Second ual." Copies can be obtained from the World War. The younger group had Superintendent of Documents, Gov- less canned salmon then, and they ernment Printing Office. bought less of it. Another survey revealed that fish is ECONOMIC ANALYSES of the opera- served in most households on any day tions of the fishing industry have been of the week. Only in New England 3^4 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 does the preference for Friday still will eat the edible products from a prevail. On the other hand, it was catch of more than 5 billion pounds of found that one-half of the eating- fish if the present per capita consump- places in this country do not list fish tion is maintained. A projection of the on the menu. trend of imports in 1947-1957 suggests The relationship of the prices paid that foreign-produced fish will furnish to fishermen for their fish to the prices almost 70 percent of our fishery food they pay for items they must buy to supply in 1975. carry on their activities determines their ultimate . They have not THE FISH AND WILDLIFE ACT of 1956 been eligible for Government sub- is the basic legislation under which sidies to close the gap between low the Bureau of Commercial Fisheries returns and high operating costs. functions. The act established a na- Bureau economists have worked out tional policy with respect to fish, these ratios and found that most fish which declared that the fishing in- prices in 1958 were at levels that dustry could fulfill its proper function yielded the fishermen less profit than in in the Nation's life only if its funda- the normal base year of 1942. mental needs were satisfied consistent The average ad valorem equivalent with public interest and in accord of duties on all fishery imports was 5.5 with the constitutional functions of percent in 1956, compared to 5.6 per- Government. cent for all imports. Thirty-seven per- The significant needs were spelled cent of the imported fishery products out as— are on the free list. There are no Freedom to develop new areas, domestic marketing programs or other methods, products, and markets in plans that permit exclusion of competi- accordance with sound economic tive imports when they affect adversely principles, as well as freedom from program operations. unnecessary administrative or legal Imports furnish an important pro- restrictions that unreasonably conflict portion of our fishery foods. They with or ignore economic needs; made up 38 percent of the total supply Maintenance of an economic at- available for consumption in 1958, mosphere in which domestic produc- having more than doubled in volume tion and processing can prosper; in 10 years. Imports of fish have been protection from subsidized competing increasing. They supply 62 percent of products; protection of opportunity groundfish (mostly haddock, cod, and to fish on the high seas in accordance ocean perch) fillets, which come mostly with international law; from Canada, Iceland, and Norway. Assistance consistent with that pro- Sixty-eight percent of our canned vided by the Government for industry crabmeat was imported, primarily generally, such as is involved in from Japan. About half of the canned promoting good industrial relations, tuna supply came from overseas, most fair trade standards, harmonious labor of it from Japan. The Maine relations, and better standards of competes with its Canadian neigh- health and sanitation. bor, which enjoyed 44 percent of the The act provided for the most market in 1958. Shrimp producers efficient implementation of its func- have yielded 41 percent of the domestic tional provisions by providing further market to imports, mainly Mexican. for the centralization of all primary Our sardines are produced in Maine Federal fishery activities in the De- and California; one-sixth of the sar- partment of the Interior. A newly dine supply comes from Norway, established United States Fish and Portugal Spain, South Africa, and Wildlife Service, consisting of a Bureau Japan. of Commercial Fisheries and a Bureau We estimate that Americans in 1975 of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife, rcr FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY 365 placed the former Fish and Wildhfe educational service and technological, Service. biological, and related research. The fishery that the I give a few examples of the work Bureau of Commercial Fisheries is done. charged with watching over seeks its Research workers discovered the from our waters rather mechanism of discoloration in canned than our land. It is based on a natural tuna and a method for preventing it. renewable resource that, with good Substances in tuna flesh are subject to management, can be expected to pro- changes in color. Under different con- duce well far into the future. For ditions, they may appear to be pink, example, the Grand Banks off New- brown, tan, or green. The condition foundland have yielded good catches apparently reflects a lack of vitamins of cod to the vessels of a dozen coun- in the flesh, as ihe addition of ascorbic tries for nearly five centuries. acid (vitamin C) and nicotinamide, a Food fish usually are hunted—not B vitamin, is effective in returning the farmed. Except for and discolored flesh to its normal pink color. farm ponds, the fish-producing in- New shrimp fishing grounds off the dustry is still in the pursuit stage that Alaska Peninsula were discovered by the food-producing farmer evolved adapting a shrimp trawl brought from from centuries ago. Fishermen thus the Gulf of Mexico. Potential produc- reap without sowing; their major tion around Kodiak Island is expected attention is on their harvest. The to reach 10 million pounds a year. The equivalent of the farmer's efí*orts larger part of the catches consists of tiny before the harvest is Nature's respon- pink Pacific shrimp, prized for their sibility. This necessary dependence on flavor. The remaining part is made up natural phenomena—weather, water of equally desirable larger species. temperatures, ocean currents—to re- Successful methods were developed new the fishery resources often results for hatching channel in com- in great variations in supply. These mercial quantities for future growing in turn have significant effects on the in rice paddies and other inland waters. volume and value of fish. The cost of labor, chemicals, and facil- Our fishing industry is unusually ities for rearing catfish in hatcheries is independent. It prefers to pursue its no greater than for trout. An annual course with a minimum of govern- production of 2 billion pounds of buf- mental assistance or the exercise of falofish, catfish, carp, bass, and crappie Federal or State authority. There is is possible if these or similar fish are no Federal legislation authorizing raised in the nearly 2 million acres of subsidies or price supports or similar rice lands in the five major rice-pro- programs for fishery foods. The pro- ducing States. ducers and consumers do benefit, An index of the numbers of down- however, from the research and similar stream migrating pink salmon was es- services that the Government pro- tablished as a means of predicting the vides for most industries. size of the returning adult runs. Fish Financial support for the Bureau's traps placed in key streams in south- food fish activities comes from the eastern Alaska permitted the counting regular annual appropriations and of the young salmon as they migrated Public Law 466, known as the Salton- to the sea. These counts form the basis stall-Kennedy Act. It was approved for estimates that guide the industry in on July I, 1954, to promote the free its plans for canning operations two flow of domestically produced fishery seasons later. products in and to develop Workers isolated various species of an increased market for fishery prod- minute plants and demonstrated that ucts of domestic origin. These purposes they were satisfactory foods for oysters were to be achieved by conducting an and clams. This discovery makes pos- 366 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 Monthly Catch and Utilisation of Fish and Shellfishj 1957

Million Vounds 8Ö0

600

Jan. Feb. Mar. ^l \1 f J 1 \ ^ i On Ncv. Dec

sible artificial propagation of these port fishery research and service cen- shellfish and the development of desir- ters to supplement the activities of able market characteristics by selective Federal and State groups. breeding. During the first 5 years of the act, 196 A wide variety of fishery products contracts were let to 81 outside organ- that can be preserved for food by izations. Of these, 99 were in techno- nuclear radiation was screened to de- logical research, 63 in biological re- termine those which could be preserved search, 29 for marketing studies, and 5 by this process. The partial sterilization for educational exhibits and films. (radiopastcurization) of a large variety Three operating divisions conduct of fishery products (blue crabmeat, the food fish activities of the Bureau of fresh and processed shrimp, fish fillets Commercial Fisheries. Management, and steaks, and breaded fish sticks and resource research, and industrial re- portions) is practical. These findings, search and services are the major when applied by industry, will lengthen fields. the storage life of fishery products held at 32° F. THE DIVISION OF RESOURCE MANAGE- The first authoritative tabulations of MENT manages the commercial fisher- chemical compositions of many species ies resources in Alaska as its principal of fish and shellfish were assembled for function. Formulation and enforce- use by industry in marketing and for ment of the Alaska fisheries regulations dietitians and other food specialists. is an allied activity. In the Pacific Average figures were developed for the Northwest, it represents the Bureau content of protein, fat, ash, moisture, on the Columbia River Fisheries De- sodium, and potassium in haddock, velopment Program, a ef- cod, salmon, shrimp, oysters, pollock, fort with Washington, Oregon, and halibut, some species of sole, and many Idaho that is designed to lessen the lesser known varieties. adverse effects of multiple-purpose Contracts for research and other proj- water projects on salmon runs in that ects are made with private research river and its tributaries. and educational organizations in an Under this program, it determines effort to utilize the best talents and the volume, variety, and distribution facilities available, to expedite accom- of species to be produced in the salmon plishments, and to build up and sup- hatcheries. It also is responsible for the FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY of fish ladders, weirs, louvers, are engaged in learning as much as and other devices that aid the adult possible about our waters and the fish salmon heading upstream to bypass that frequent them—all in the interest and the salmon fry migrating of their ultimate use by the fishing downstream to avoid plunging over a industry. high or being fatally diverted The research vessels follow the cod, into an irrigation or a turbine. haddock, and ocean perch far to sea These efforts help to preserve the Co- on the banks ofif New England. In this lumbia River salmon. area their research has resulted in the Management of the salmon resource introduction of a trawl net with larger in Alaska is a short-term activity com- meshes, which release the younger pressed into a few short weeks in the haddock for another year of growth, summer. Salmon are unusual. They before eventually bringing them to are orphans when born and die child- the deck of a vessel and finally to mar- less. A food industry, worth as much ket. Fishermen get better prices, and as loo million dollars annually, has processors get larger and more desir- been built upon this peculiarity. The able market sizes. commercial catch of salmon is taken In the far north, the biologists are from the hordes of mature fish as they unraveling the knotty problem of return to their native streams to spawn where the salmon—born in Alaskan after spending i to 5 years in the open rivers—spend the ocean part of their sea. Seeking their destiny, the salmon life cycle. Outstanding research in the migrate up the rivers of their youth to North Pacific and the Bering Sea has deposit the fertilized eggs in nests in demonstrated there is a large area, the gravel bottom. A few days later above and below the Aleutian Islands, they die. Many weeks later the tiny where salmon originating in Alaskan salmon fry emerge from the eggs and rivers and salmon spawned in Sibe- the gravel bed. rian streams congregate to feed. Ap- Managing a resource like the red proaching maturity, they head east salmon runs that flood into the rivers and west, respectively, to spawn in of Alaska's Bristol Bay in late June the rivers and streams where they each year is a hectic operation during were born. the short season. Millions of dollars are The existence of this mixing bowl risked by cannery operators for sup- has been confirmed by a five-part plies, facilities, and personnel to handle research study. Bureau biologists have, a brief but highly variable run of fish. proved this by tagging salmon in the During the season of a month or less, area and recovering the tagged salmon the local Federal administrator must in or near their native streams. Then gage the take against the probable run they have shown that the pattern of and open and close the season accord- rings on the scales diners for Siberian ingly. In 1958, for example, only about and Alaskan salmon. They have 2.5 days of fishing w^ere permitted each adapted a blood serum test, which week—a total of only 8 to 10 days of readily distinguishes salmon from the fishing to complete a pack to supply two sides of the Pacific. They have consumers of Bristol Bay red salmon demonstrated differences in the bodily for the ensuing year. characteristics of the fish from the '^mixing" area, and they have even THE DIVISION OF BIOLOGICAL RE- found that parasites in the fiesh and SEARCH investigates the nature, extent, viscera differ and are a further means and causes of variations in the abun- of separating Siberian and Alaskan dance of important food and salmon. recommends measures for conserving This research is aiding the In- and managing them. Its laboratories ternaiional North Pacific Fisheries on shore and research vessels at sea Commission, which is charged with 368 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 How the Large Mesh Works

//^//"l ^/ yf . . . until they y/él become marlcetabic ^^1 2.5-y^Mr-old fish ^^ 4^/ ^^^^' ^"^^S^ \\ . . . and grow Large mesh nets allow baby iish to escape w k^^^ foi- more than a year ^^ssB. fe^^^V^ ^N^^FISH YOUNGER ¡r^p- THAN 2.5 YEARS

FISH OLDER THAN 2.5 YEARS determining how far to the east the journey from the sea by passing Japanese high seas vessels may fish through the manmade . In without taking an undue proportion Lake Huron and Lake Michigan, the of Alaskan salmon. Thus the runs sea lampreys, which have rasplike are not depleted. mouths, attached themselves to lake Many fish can be tagged, but trout and fed upon them. As the shrimp present a problem because lake trout declined catastrophically they shed their shells periodically. in these lakes, the sea lampreys mi- Biologists have met this problem by grated to Lake Superior and began injecting a dye, which colors the the final onslaught on the lake trout head portion of shrimp a bright blue, there. green, or red. It marks a significant Biologists placed electric barriers in step in charting the migration of the streams in which the lampreys shrimp in our Gulf of Mexico and spawned, thus providing an effective South Atlantic fishing grounds and but costly killer or deterrent to repro- in the conservation of this valuable duction. Meanwhile the search for,a resource. chemical killer (a lampreycide) was Sometimes the Bureau biologists are carried on. Experiments indicated called on to kill fish, rather than to that after testing 6 thousand different conserve them. This is their task in chemicals, scientists found one with the upper Great Lakes, where the the desired characteristics. Placed in sea lamprey—a primitive, eel-like the streams in small amounts—a few fish—has found the habitat to its parts per million—it is lethal to liking and the inhabitants (especially lamprey adults, young, and—most lake trout) well suited to its parasitic important—to the larval forms, which nature. remain in the mud of the stream bed The sea lamprey overcame natural up to 5 years. obstacles between the lakes in its Kills of more than 99 percent have FISH AND THE FISHING INDUSTRY 369 ISJiain United States Fisheries

;:v/ SOUTH »■ \ AMERICA \

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been obtained in test operations with in oldtime volume, to the tables of the practically no damage to desirable Midwest. fish and animals or to useful organ- isms in the streams. Biologists are THE DIVISION of Industrial Research optimistic that the sea lampreys in and Services, the Bureau's third oper- Lake Michigan and Lake Superior ating unit, is directly concerned with can be brought under control in 10 . Catching the fish is its years. Restocking of the lakes with primary interest. Seeing that the re- lake trout can go forward meanwhile sulting fishery products are served to in anticipation of gradual restoration the consumer in a way that merits con- of the trout and its ultimate return, fidence in the product and future pur- 477248°—59 25 370 YEARBOOK OF AGRICULTURE 1959 chases is its final task. In all, it func- The five regional technological labo- tions as a scout (exploratory fishing), ratories usually specialize on certain researcher (), judge (stand- problems, in addition to handling local ards and inspection), accountant (sta- phases of programs of national interest. tistics), reporter (market news), - The Seattle laboratory, for example, man (market development), teacher has done much fundamental work on (films and exhibits), analyst (econom- fish proteins, oils, and irradiation. ics), and cook (home economics). The Boston laboratory has spear- headed the standards project and EXPLORATORY FISHING vessels locate worked out the problems created by new fishing grounds, determine the ex- the new technique of freezing fish at tent and character of the fish available, sea, rather than bringing them back and decide on the most effective gear in ice, as is the usual practice. for commercial use. The laboratory at College Park, Md., The vessels and the research staff has concentrated on nutritional studies. have a long line of successes behind At Ketchikan, Alaska, solutions have them. They discovered commercial been sought to the processing problems quantities of yellowfin tuna in the Gulf of the local fishery products, such as of Mexico and deep water red shrimp king crabs, butter clams, pink salmon, in the Gulf and off the south Atlantic and shrimp. coast of Florida. They also found the A new laboratory has been estab- Pacific shrimp off Alaska. lished at Pascagoula, Miss., to aid the Their investigations have indicated shrimp, oyster, and other fishery food that shrimp and shrimplike crustaceans industries in the Gulf States. may be one of the largest untapped fishery food resources in the sea. But ANDREW W. ANDERSON is Assistant exploitation of midwater and deep sea Director oj the Bureau of Commercial Fish- shrimp depends on technological im- eries. He has been with this Bureau since provements to fishing gear and the slow- jgjo in technological research^ statistical acquisition of knowledge about how to and market news activities^ and as Chief of fish in very deep water. the former Branch of Commercial Fisheries, He also is the representative of the Depart- TECHNOLOGICAL RESEARCH in the Bu- ment of the Interior on the Food and Agri- reau consists of chemical, bacteriologi- Interagency Com- cal, nutritional, and inves- mittee. tigations. These studies are directed to- ward general problems of handling, processing, and distributing fishery products, which the industry finds it difficult or impossible to solve with its How to bring to all our people the bene- own resources. The composition, prop- fits of the newer knowledge of nutrition as erties, and nutritive values of fishery promptly as possible is both an educational products are determined. Sanitation and an economic problem. The teaching of practices are studied. A voluntary in- the principles of nutrition^ of the relation of spection and grading program is ad- nutrition to healthy and of the nutritive ministered, in addition to conducting values of foods should go on constantly both the research and carrying out the de- as a regular part of the work of schools of velopment required for establishing the all grades^ and through the various means standards for the grades. of adult ,—HENRY C. SHERMAN.