EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MILAN &THE LAKES AREA BY AREA | 45

HISTORIC CENTRE The area around the Duomo was the religious 18th century, and a stage for the city's major centre of Milan in the 4th century. Up to the religious and civic ceremonies, in the 19th 14th century it was the site of the basilicas century it became the nucleus from which of Santa Tecia and Santa Maria Maggiore and avenues radiated, in the 1860s the decaying the Early Christian baptisteries, San Giovanni dwellings and the shops around the Duomo alie Fonti and Santo Stefano. These were were demolished to make way for the all demolished to make room for the new construction of the then futuristic Galleria. the cathedral.The political and administrative symbol of Milan after the unification of . centre of the city was the nearby Palazzo The damage caused by bombs in World War ii deila Ragione. At that time Milan was only created large empty areas later occupied by slightly larger than the present-day historic many modern buildings. The Historic Centre centre; in fact, what is today Piazza deiia Scaia is always thronging with visitors, drawn by was on the edge of town. Piazza del Duomo the world-famous churches, museums and was the focus of small businesses until the galleries and also by the excellent shops.

Sights at a Glance Streets, Squares and O San GoUardo in Cone • RestaurantspIZO Historic Buildings ® San Sepokro 1 Al Cantinone O Galloria Villorio Emanuelc II O San Giorgio itl P.nlinzzo 2 Boeucc O Pnlazzo Marino O S.iriia M.iria presso San Saliro 3 Camparino in Galleria O Ciisa degli Omenoni Galleries 4 Cracco O Cflsa Man^oni ,md P\^27ii Eelijioioso O Miisc'o del Noveccnio 5 La Cupola O PmzA del Liberty and Corso Villorio O )\rir;ro(ciC(jAjri(wojio/w 6 La Hinascerite Food Market Lriianiiele II U.vpi)58-6! 7 i.e Noir O PnlazEo Reale 8 Siivinl Theatres O Piazza Mercanli 9 VUN l'emmallaSailaieepp54-5 ® Palazzo Dorroiiieo O Churches O Ouomoieepp^S-St O San Fedeic

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NORTH LAS T MILAN Elegant Via Manzoni is the heart of a vast with its many aristocratic palazzi, you will area stretching from the Brera quarter to Via come to the Giardini Pubbiici and the Montenapoleone and Corso Venezia. Brera Villa Reale, home of the Modern Art is known for its characteristic winding streets, Gallery.The area extending beyond the some of which stiil have their 18th- century ramparts, which was undeveloped up paving. The fashion district around Via to the early 19th century, includes the Montenapoleone is the domain of the Cimitero Monumentale, the Stazione designer shops. Starting from Piazza San Centraie (main railway station) and the Babiia and continuing through CorsoVenezia, Pirelli building, Milan's tallest.

Sights at a Glance

Churches O PinacoiecadiBreiaseeppI 10 II liarello al Baglloni O ^iri M.irco © Planetarium 11 llCorkiitdulo O Sini.i Mdrij del Carmine O Museo di Sloria Naturalc 12 IITtMiio ® San Sillipliclanu © Villa Belgbjuso Galleila 13 JoUi O SaiiiAiKjcIo dArie Modcrna 14 ton ion 15 Malawxjll.i O SinM M.ifia Incoronnia Gardens and Cemeteries 16 NolxiAim.inl Streets, Squares and O Cimiiero Monumentale 17 Obrkcl Historic Buildings © Giardini Pubbllcl 18 Osieila dd Iteiio OYuiMniizoni 19 Oslorla L,i I'lolo O Arch! di I'oiKi Niiova 20 I'kcola Ciitiria O Prli.lZZO ClIMIli O R«tauraotsppl7J-5 21 rrind O Piiolli KiiiklliKi 1 10 Corso 22 Rigoki ® Sui/juiiu CCMII.IIL' 2 Akropolis 23 Serendib © li.isikiiii di I'uri."! Vwicziii 3 All,! Cucina delle Langhe 24 Tomoyoshi Encio 0 (n/vi Vriuviii \(rjp)M-5 4 Ruigari 25 Trattoria Ai Maiarel Museums and Galleries 5 Caftf Verdi di Rosso Maria 0 Musco [Yitdi PLV/OII 6 lla (>i.innino O Miisi'ci lt,i(|,illiViilsec( III 7 n.i Ilia O I'lilivzo Muraiiik) ( nsliimi.' 8 Gkjiio Dosso Mcidd Iniiiiaijliie 9 1 long Koni]

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-4 Hapoleaonai Man ihe Peacemaker in tlx courtyard of PIracoteca di Brera For keys to symbols see back Hap SOUTHWEST MILAN Religious complexes once covered this which follows the course of the medieval district, preventing further building until walls, and the outer ring road, which the early 19th century. The suppression of replaced the Spanish wails. Further on the monasteries in the late 18th century is the Navigiio canals quarter, with the paved the way for the urbanization of the and the Pavese, the last area between the medieval and Spanish vestiges of what was once a major network waiis, crossed by two iarge avenues, Corso for communications and commerce. Italia and Corso di Porta Ticinese. Beyond Barges used the Naviglio Grande to Porta Ticinese, which leads to the southern transport the Candoglia marble used to part of Milan, is Corso San Gottardo. The build the Duomo and, in the 1950s, the area is bordered by the inner ring road. material for postwar reconstruction,

Sights at a Glance Streets, Squares and O Snnia Miiri,i riei Miracoli 0 RestaurantsppfZI-Z Historic Buildings presso Siin Celso 1 AI Pont de l-err O I'i.iz/a dellii Velra iinii nii?dicv.ii © San PiioloCunwibo 2 AI Porto I'or in Ticinese © Siim'Alcssiindro 3 Alia Coliina Pistoiese O l.arijo Cunibliki niuf Vin iniiiio Museums and Galleries 4 Dal Bolognessj O Vi.i Oico O Museo N.izioii.iii'delln 5 L'OcnGiulyf&fl/ Churches Scieliz,! edefl,! Tei lli)l()i|i.l 6 t'Ulmel ' N 7 OsleiiiideiBlnari O .^"/j Imv I/O allc Ciilomc Lcoiinnk) dn Vinii 8 OsieiiatJjTOPre siHippSP.-S O Mijscii OioceSiiiH) 9 Oslerin Porta Cicca O ^nii Hernnidino nile Mdii.Rlie 10 Dzzerialradizionalecon O ^iJi)i'Ambioi/ioiLvpij8b-9 Ciicina di Pesco ©SimVilioreiil Coipi) 11 I'rei nia in Pizzeria © S.][ii'fiiMi)r(jio 12 Irailoria Auroia

-4 Magnificent golden celling in the basilica of SanCAmbrnglo For keys to symbols see back Hap SOUTHWEST MILAN | 89 88 I MILAN AREA BY AREA

Sant'Ambrogio in Milan, it Exploring Sant'Ambrogro The Interior is dominated symbolically by Bergognone's The Risen The fact that the church of Sant'Ambrogio houses the The nave provides the best Chmi(c.l491), view of the interior, revealing remains of the city's patron saint, the church's founder, in the third chapel is an the basilica in all its splendour. makes it a special place for the Milanese. Most of its interesting painting by Luini, The nave has two side aisles present-day appearance is the result of rebuilding in a Madonna wilh Saints Jerome divided by arcades supporting and Rocco. the 10th and 12th centuries by the Benedictines from the women's galleries with piers the nearby monastery, who made it a modei of Lombard with carved capitals. At the Romanesque religious architecture. All that remains of beginning of the nave is the fVluseo deila Basilica the 4th-century basilica are the triumphal arch and its Serpent's Column, said to have At the end of ihe north aisle you columns, which became part of the apse. In 1937-40 been erected by Moses in the desert. Beside it, to the left, come out into liie Portico deiia and in the postwar period the Romanesque structure and excavations show the level of Canonica, the presbytery poriico, delicate colours were restored. From the Pusteria (gate) the original 4th-century floor. whicb was ieft unfinished by there is a marvellous view of the church, with its two bell Bramanle (1492-4) and rebuiil The pulpit (or ambo) is made after World War II. T he columns towers and atrium, flanked by the rectory and museum. of pieces saved when the The Serpent^ Column, at tiie beginning of Ihe nave ol Ihe ccniial arch, sculpted to dome collapsed in 1196. This resemble tree trunks, are magnificent monument is the kings of Italy crowned here. Ihe infant St John Ihe Baplisi unusual. The entrance to the suspended arches, as well decorated with an eagle and Pusteria di Pan of the iarge mosaic in Ihe by Bernardo Lanino, who Basilica Museum, with six rooms as the proportions, match a seated man, symbols of tlie Sant'Ambrogio apse dates from liie 6lh and frescoed the Legend of St George featuring objects and works of those in the church, creating evangelists John and Matthew. 8th cenluries.The scene on the on the sides [1546). The art from the church, is here. The Pusteria di Sant'Ambrogio, a iiarmonious continuity Underneath is tiie sarcophagus left, a Benedictory Christ, is of Baroque chapel of the Holy Among the most interesting one of the minor gales on between exterior and interior, of Slilicho (d ih rem ury) with Ihe same period, while the one Sacrament, the fifth, contains pieces are a 13th-century the medieval walls, is a good l ite atrium houses finds and reliefs representing (going on the right is the result of the frescoes The Death of multicoloured londo of starting point for a visit to tombstones from this area, clockwise) Oirfsi Giving liw 18lh-teniury and postwar St Benedict by Carlo Preda and St Ambrose; a cast of Siiilcho's the church. Rebuilt in 1939, which was once an Early law to Si Peter, four scenes from reconstruction. St Bernard by sarcophagus; St Ambrose's bed; it houses a museum with old Christian cemetery. the Old Testament, Chrnt among Nexl lolhe lilippo Abbinii fragments of liie apse mosaics weapons and instruments The fourth side of the iheAposlies and the SaaiOce presbytery is the (lAih and antl lour wooden panels from of torture. atrium, or narihex, has five olIsaac. Under the octagonal stairway to Ihe 18ih cenlury ihe4th-century ixiriaL! he boys and is port of the fagade, cupola is tiie ciborium (lOtii museum also has a Triptych by crypt, decorated Iespei:lively). In which has an upper loggia century), the heart ol the I Uarlhoiomew's Bernardo Zcnalc (15ih cenlury) basilica, supported by columns with stucco S with five arches, in the nortliex cha|)ei (Ilie and C)iri,sl among the fJoctars taken from the 4lh-ceiilury (cr/40). Under is the main portal (8lh-IOth second) are by Bergorjnone. in the gaiden ciborium, its palmed stucco Ihe Golden Altai, centuries), witii small columns ihe Legends opposiie is SI Sigismund's sides depict vai ious episodes; an urn (1897) with figures of animals and of Saints Vitloie oratory, already famous by 1096, on the front is Oimi Giving the has the remains Ihe Mystic Lamb, while its and Saliio 0737) witii 15th-ccnlury frescoes and Keys lo Si Peter and the Law to of Saints wooden wings (1750) liove )y Tic polo, Roman columns. Sr Par;/. The ciborium acts as Amhrogio, A decorated capiial reliefs of! lie Uk of David. detached Iror'n a baldachin forihe Gervasioand Inthealrium the San Vittore Golden Altar, an Prolasio. Back Saceiiur'n; they embossed work ibal upstairs, al the end of the demonstrate VNIVER5ITA Anspert's Atrium Archbishop Angilberto south aisle is the cuiiural / CATTOLICA , commissioned from The Risen Christ by Just before the atrium, to the stunning openness of Volvinlusinthe 9rh Bergoguone (ct'191) tfie Cistercians, the left, is the isolated Roman century. On the bfick,a San Vittore in ^5ACR0'CV0RE: who comrnis-sioned the work. Coionna del Diavolo (Devil's silver relief narrates Ihe Ciel d'Oro Sacelium, the i " Tiie aitarpiece in the second / Column), with two holes Ule of Sant'Ambrogio and 4th-cenLury funerary chapel Plaque of Ihe Unlversitii Callolka cinapei, The Virgin Mary with I halfway up which, according has the artist's signature. of the martyr, which was later del SacroCuore St Bartholomew and Si John to tradition, were made by On the some side, two incorporated into Che basilica. the Baptist, is attributed to the Devil's horns while he small doors allowed The 5th-ceniury mosaics on Universita Cattolica del Gaudenzio Ferrari, as is the was lempting Sant'Ambrogio. the faithful to worship the wails show various saints, Sacro Cuore 1 lie present-day atrium, with including Saints Ambrogio, 1545 Deposition in the next \ the body of St Ambrose, On the right-hand side of ils blind arches, dales from Gervasioand Proiasio, chapel, which also has Irescoe;^ once kept under the the church (entrance at No. 1 llic I7lh century and replaced by Luini on the pillars. \ altar. The front is made Largo Gemelli}, in the former one hiiili 1)/ Archbishop of gold and jewels, and Benedictine monastery, is the Anspeil inihePth century. narrates the LifeofChdsc. The South Aisle university founded by padre I iiis large courtyard acts Behind the ciborium is The North Aisle Returning to the entrance AgostinoGemeiii in 1921. its ,i: aneiinanc'o Ibyet for the •lie wooden choir with In the south aisle, you will Go up this aisle from tiie two cloisters, with Ionic and 1 ill III h iKojier and sets off the l ie Life of SanlAmbrogio . see the monks'chapels, built baptistery (first chapel), ..Doric columns, were two of l.n,aiie. A low of piers (some iSlh century) and, in in different eras. St George's which has a porphyry font 'the four Bramante had designed Hoiiiaii) Willi sculpled capitals tiie middle, the bishop's chapel - sixth from the by Franco Lombardi with irKl497. In the refectory is Tlie, ( oiiiiiiin-; liiiii ilie iMsiiica, throne (4th and 9th entrance - houses an aitarpiece the Conversion of St Augustine MahiogeotCana by Caiiistp.^' MuMliyrlinili paiierri of the The atrium, with finds and tombstones from centuries), also used by the of the Madonna and Child with (1940), the saint baptized by Piazza (1545). an lies, iiall i oluiiinsand small surrounding area I 1 43 142 I THE LAKES OF NORTHERN ITALY

O VISITORS'CHECKLIST Lake Como Santa Maria del Tiglio in Gravedona Is the Practical Information This lake, which Is also known as Lario, is the third largest in most famous Lombard Q Local information bureaux. Italy and the deepest (410 m, 1,345 ft), it is shaped like Romanesque construction Q naviaghi.ic a sprawling upside-down Y, with the arms of Como, in the Alto Lario region. Transport and Coiico. The Como shore is the most developed, with Its main features are the layers of black and while @FS:Mllan-Cliiassoline (8930 numerous restaurants and hotels, as well as a scenic road stone and the unusual 31); Ferrovie Nord Milano: (031-30 that follows the ancient Strada Regina, lined with elegant octagonal bell tower 48 00 or 800 500 005), • ASF villas and aristocratic gardens.The Lecco area has more set into the fagade. Autolinee, Piazza Matteolli, Como (031-34 7247). Navigazione stark scenery and small coves. You may spot the typical g Lagodi Como (800-55 1801 "Lucia" boats, named after the heroine in Manzoni's The (freelone)01031-57 93 II). Betrothed, which was partly set here.

Domase O * Bellagio Gravedona g Il5 position al Ihe junction of the Lake Mezzola, arms of the lake and the spectacular separated from view from the Sparlivento point the Lario region by make this one of the most popular ^bbazla sill from the spots on Lake Como, ,>= dl Fiona river, is a nature -PA- (.*£» MA; I 'I' reserve inhabited by grey herons. The'crottrare typical mountain cavcs inihe upper Lario region, used as wine The bell tower on cellars since the 19th century. Santa Maria Maddalena at Ossuccio is one of the symbols ofthe lake.

Menaggio The medieval © -k Como Construction of Como's Duomo began Vezio castle, built on the site of a in 1396 and ended in 1740 with the Cadenalibii B 4E> huge dome. Next to it is the elegant Roman tower, is ^ yremezio ^ ' 13th-ceniury Broietto, the old town hall. a 20-minute walk from Varenna and lsola-» ^ b 'dlagio • O's o, 4 offers a stunning panoramic view.

I Varenna Bj.lema >f Some of the paths In this village, one of liie besi preserved on tiie ^ .Lecco lake, consist of steps and raised SalaT. boardwalks perched over the water. VassenaB ''L« Mandello •^dei Lario Onno S., . PH Abbadla

Sights at a Glance © Como MohraslO,^'^ njPognana © =Lario Lecco Cernobblo © Q"-'* , Torno © Isold Comaclna O Lenno y • ' j-SS Belvto © TravemotrxST-' ' O © Gravedona O g O Abbazia di Fiona O Cemobbio O k Tremezzo © Belbno The in Tremezzo The 16th-century Villa d 'Este O Varenna Key was a wedding gift for Carlotta In Cernobbio, now a famous © Lecco of Prussia (1843). Inside there - - Ferry routes hotel, is surrounded by © Bellagio beautiful landscaped is a copy of C a nova's Cupid © Torno gardens with many ftjuntains. and Psyche. For keys to lymbols see back Hap