“More than Remembering”
Historic Preservation of the Northern Black Hills
Instructor James Roller
CO 302-001: Writing in Digital Environments
December 15, 2016
"I will abide by the terms of Fair Use in the Copyright code, or the applicable Creative Commons copyright, and
provide the appropriate attribution as necessary in the completion of assignments for this class."
Rich History of Black Hills:
The Black Hills of South Dakota are an isolated mountain range, rising above the rolling waves of grasslands, known as the Great Plains of North America, and featuring a unique and rich history. The Lakota name for this natural wonder is Pahá Sápa, translating directly to
“Black Hills”, called that since even before the days that the Lakota conquered the Cheyenne, claiming the Black Hills in 1776. The Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 exempted white settlement of the Black Hills, but that would be short-lived. Gold would be discovered as a result of George
Armstrong Custer’s Expedition, and a gold rush of wild proportions would ensue, giving birth to what would become present day (Western) South Dakota.
The Black Hills are divided (by locals) into two areas: “The Southern Hills” and “The
Northern Hills”. I’ve been a resident of “The Northern Hills” for over a decade, and much of my interest revolves around the curious histories of Spearfish Canyon and the surrounding area
(Lawrence County), so I’ve focused my research on this area. The history of Lawrence County has long piqued my curiosity, but with each passing year the historical artifacts and buildings seem to slowly erode more, and more, away until there will be nothing left. History is significant and important, but has not received the appropriate amount of support. Historical Preservation of these areas has already begun, but still more strides can, and must, be achieved.
The City of Spearfish’s History:
“Spearfish’s first business opened in 1877 along with a United States Post Office, and the city soon evolved from a farming community (primarily to supply the notorious gold camp of
Deadwood just 15 miles away) into a thriving academic and cultural center.”
(visitSpearfish.com). The city was officially incorporated in 1888, but was originally called
Queen City, named that due to the Crown formed by Crow Peak, Lookout and Spearfish
Mountains. Spearfish would grow to include many important historical features, including the
Pope and Talbot Sawmill (now owned by Neimen Forest Products), the Black Hills Passion Play, the Spearfish Normal School (now Black Hills State University), the DC Booth Historic Fish
Hatchery, and the discovery of the Thoen Stone.
The Black Hills Passion Play was an annual dramatic presentation depicting the Passion of Jesus Christ. Josef Meier brought the Luenen Passion Play to Spearfish, where it would stay for 70 years since the first performance in May 1939 until its last in August 2008. It was performed in an amphitheater designed by Josef Meier himself, which was the largest of its kind with 6,000 seats. Josef received international acclaim, and the papal honor called Pontifice Et
Ecclesia, which is the highest honor given to a layman by the Catholic Church, and was granted by Pope Paul VI. (Garrigan, RCJ)
The Thoen Stone’s very exist questions the true first discovery of gold in the Black Hills.
It’s a sandstone slab, discovered by Louis Thoen in 1887 on Lookout Mountain, which was supposedly inscribed upon in 1834 by Ezra Kind. What’s inscribed upon the stone, “Came to these hills in 1833 seven of us: DeLacompt, Ezra Kind, G.W. Wood, T. Brown, R. Kent, Wm.
King, Indian Crow. All dead but me, Ezra Kind. Killed by [Indians] beyond the high hill. Got our gold June 1834. Got all the gold we could carry. Our ponies all got by the Indians. I have lost my gun and nothing to eat and Indians hunting me.” spurs controversy. Nowadays, Spearfish is located on the northwest edge of the Black Hills, at the mouth of Spearfish Canyon, is considered an outdoor recreational paradise, and the home of Black Hills State University.
Spearfish Canyon Railway:
In 1893, the Grand Island & Wyoming Railroad Line opened in Spearfish Canyon. The railroad was a 31.91 mile rail line that passed through Terry, Trojan, Crown Hill, Spearfish
Canyon, Maurice, and Spearfish. It was a spur that would be purchased soon after completion, for $2 million, by the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad. There were 375 curves in thirty- one lineal miles on the Spearfish railroad line, a curve for every 436 feet. Once leaving
Deadwood, the track rose 1,886 feet in six miles to Trojan (originally called Portland), and then fell down 2,778 feet in twenty-five miles crossing thirty-three bridges in route to Spearfish. The railroad would be abandoned after a devastating flood washed out over two miles of track near
Iron Creek. Supposedly some of the railroad grade is still visible, and portions of trestles can still be found beyond Annie Creek Falls.
Mining History of the Spearfish Area:
Lawrence County once contained fifteen mining districts, but I’ve focused my research efforts on Blacktail District, Garden City District, Carbonate District, Squaw Creek District,
Ragged Top District, and Tinton District. Though all of the other districts offer rich historical perspectives as well, but I’ve decided to focus my research on the districts closest to Spearfish
Canyon. Districts such as the Bald Mountain District, once containing the town of Trojan
(originally known as Portland) that was officially completely demolished in October of 2010,are still begin mined, Bald Mountain is by Wharf Resources Incorporated, and others such as the district containing the Homestake Mining Company have transitioned from gold nuggets to neutrinos. The Homestake Mining Company was the most famous and at one point, “Every mining enterprise in the Black Hills is measured with the Homestake company’s possessions.
The Homestake has been the standby of the Hills.”
The Blacktail District was one of the oldest in the Black Hills, containing both the
Blacktail and Sheeptail Canyons. The district was named after the town of Blacktail, which was named after the species of black-tailed deer supposedly spotted by a settler near the town site.
Several large mining operations resided in this district, but now only portions of the Montezuma Mine remain. The Montezuma Mine shipped iron and copper ore, and stood just outside of the
Deadwood city limits. Supposedly there’s still old equipment and structures able to be rediscovered in the Blacktail gulch as well.
The Garden City District was situated just west of the Blacktail District, named for the town that resided there on the False Bottom Creek. The town would later be renamed to Maitland in 1902, for Alexander Maitland who took over the local mine. During its heydays, Garden City had an estimated 50 personal and commercial buildings and even sported a telephone line and electricity, but by 1915 the town was almost completely abandoned. It wasn’t until 1941 with
World War II that the town of Maitland would officially be declared abandoned, and in 1950 the mill would burn down while being demolished. It’s difficult to believe that a lively town such as
Maitland would become rubble. Now only 1 or 2 structures remain of the original 50, and the town has drifted away into forgotten memory.
The Carbonate District was one of the largest districts in the Black Hills and mined a variety of different kinds of ores. The district was named after Carbonate Camp, a town which resided within the district that was originally called West Virginia. Carbonate Camp was founded in July 1881, and after the Black Hills Daily Times had published an article describing the carbonate ore, over 200 men had moved into the camp. The town grew rapidly, forming several different types of businesses, including barber shops and laundries, and would even establish two separate newspapers, The Carbonate Reporter and The Nugget. The town’s prosperity would be short lived as the local roads degraded by 1883, making transportation almost impossible. But local mines began to find success, such as the Iron Hill Mine, and Seabury-Calkins Mine, and with their success, so too did the town begin to boom again. William Hugginson’s Black Hills
Hotel was built, becoming the largest hotel in the Dakota Territory, and other establishments were constructed, including a school, church, bank, and post office. The people of Carbonate constructed a smelter in 1887, located just east of town in Rubicon Gulch (feeds Bridal Veil
Falls). The smelter would be their undoing, with the fumes causing respiratory diseases and killing all the cats, allowing illnesses spread by rats. In 1888 and 1889, a diphtheria epidemic would strike Carbonate, and soon after 1891 the town would become almost completely abandoned. One man named “Raspberry” Brown lived in Carbonate until he died in 1939, leaving Carbonate Camp completely empty. “Diphtheria, mine accidents, suicide, infant mortality of undetermined causes---heartache of more than one sort was in Carbonate, but "what a rip roaring camp it was" says Frank B. Bryant with a touch of nostalgia.” Supposedly there’s much to still been seen of the historic Carbonate Camp, including several standing structures, the cemetery, an abandoned bus, and the broken remains of many past structures, including the smelter.
“A prominent mining" man from Cripple Creek was recently heard to remark that if he had been carried to the Squaw Creek mining district in the Black Hills blindfolded, and suddenly given his sight again, that he would have imagined himself in the richest mining camp in the world.” The Squaw Creek District contained the Cleopatra Mine which established a 100-ton cyanide plant, and mill that was constructed with the lumber of Hugginson’s Hotel from
Carbonate in 1900. Eventually the Cleopatra Mine would be abandoned, leaving massive mining structures residing on the length of a hill, but nowadays the Cleopatra Mine is mountains of broken lumber and twisted metal.
The Two Johns Mine was another of the Squaw Creek District, said to have accomplished 4,000 feet of drifts and tunnels before the use of the cyanide extraction process. The old bridge connecting the Two Johns Mine to the outside world still remains, but the rest of the structures have fallen.
The Ragged Top District was thought to have produced more rich ore than any other district in the Hills, with it averaging $100 per ton back in its heydays. At one point the Ragged
Top District included the likes of the Portland Mines (Trojan), Ben Hur Mines, Alameda Mines, and the Dacy shaft of the American Mining Company. This district was once rich with life as the mining towns of Ragged Top (originally called Balmoral), Preston, Victoria, Cyanide, and Dacy grew into existence, but all of those towns suffered hardships because of the difficultly transporting their ore to the smelters. By 1915, the towns were completely abandoned.
Nowadays, many structures are still standing in the area, but locals typically refer to the entire area as Preston.
The town of Tinton is often the most well-known of the ghost towns in the region, but not many know its specific storied history. Originally a gold mining camp, due to the large gold deposits discovered on Negro Hill, it would later boom even further once tin was discovered within the pegmatite rock in 1884. The town contained a post office, bank, mill, school, hotel, houses, other businesses, and a weekly newspaper. It’s estimated that more than 300 people lived in Tinton during its peak, including the legendary “Potato Creek Johnny” Eli Perrett. Potato
Creek Johnny, was a man that stood only 4 feet and 3 inches tall, but his claim to fame was his discovery of a 7.346-troy-ounce gold nugget, which still is the largest ever found.
(truewestmagazine.com)
In the 1930s, a sawmill was built because of the declining success of the mining operations, and then once World War II became the mine began producing feldspar and lithium.
“Tinton was probably the first nuclear-age community in the Black Hills,” Hills said. “They were the supplier of raw materials (lithium oxide) to the company involved in the Manhattan Project.”
(Velder, RCJ) This ghost town has only been abandoned since the 1950s when the mill was destroyed in a fire. Nearly 25 structures still remain standing today, and supposedly some of the mines are still operating, providing tantalum.
Historic Preservation:
Historic Preservation is an endeavor that seeks to preserve, conserve and protect buildings, objects, landscapes or other artifacts of historical significance. (historians.org) South
Dakota has pushed historic preservation on a state level, funding commissions and certified local governments (the federal-state-local preservation partnership that allows locals to approve nominations for the National Register of Historic Places), including Spearfish Historic
Preservation Commission. “The purpose of the Historic Preservation Commission is to engage in a comprehensive program of historic preservation, to promote the use and conservation of historic properties for the education, inspiration, pleasure and enrichment of the citizens of the
City of Spearfish.” (cityofspearfish.com) From 1982 to 2011, Lawrence County has one of the largest historic rehabilitation spending totals in the State, but that was largely because of
Deadwood’s $46,297,462.08 spent, which alone counted for 14.1 percent of the state’s historic rehabilitation spending. Meaning progress must still be made with the residents of Spearfish.
The South Dakota State Historical Society was created by the Legislature in 1901, and serves as the “keeper of state’s history”. The State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO) is a branch of the South Dakota Historical Society, and mainly monitors historical properties, but supports historic preservation commissions to advance the state’s objectives as well. The State
Historic Preservation Office contains a complete list of the Historic Markers in South Dakota.
Lawrence County contains fifteen items located on that list including, but not limited to, the
Thoen Stone Monument, Custer Trail Crossing, Black Hills Tragedy, Preacher Smith of
Deadwood Gulch, First Deadwood Gold Discovery, and the Civilian Conservation Corps –
Roubaix.
The State Historic Preservation Office also assists with the National Register of Historic
Places, which contains over 6,700 items from 65 of the 66 counties in it, but only three Lawrence
County locations are in the South Dakota State Register. Though the Spearfish Historic
Preservation Commission has created their own signs, with the help of native Kevin Miller, for historical markers spread throughout the local downtown business area.
The Spearfish Area Historical Society’s purpose, according to their Bylaws adopted in
2012, is “to bring together persons interested in preserving, protecting, and promoting the history of Spearfish and the surrounding region.” (SAHS Bylaws) This historical society offers nine public programs in the 2016-2017 fall through spring calendar season, featuring a variety of guest speakers discussing historically relevant topics of the local area. The attendance numbers have been steadily rising with each program, with the last program, “Black Hills, Yesterday and
Today,” led by Paul Horstead, having over 70 Spearfish residents in attendance. I, myself, am considering attending the next program on January 3rd, led by Paul Horsted, “Beginnings of
Black Hills Skiing.” The progress that the Spearfish Historic Preservation Commission and
Spearfish Area Historical Society has made is amazing and underappreciated.
Conclusion:
I’ve written this research paper to help educate the average Spearfish resident of our rich cultural history and need for more historical preservation. Many people, specifically with the
Spearfish Historic Preservation Commission and the Spearfish Area Historical Society, have poured hundreds of hours of effort into historical preservation in our area. Hopefully my words push you to seek action in assisting these people, as I push for the understanding that our rich history deserves to be more than just memories.
Works Cited
“Bylaws.” Spearfish Area Historical Society, March 2012,
Accessed 15 Dec. 2016.
“Carbonate, South Dakota.” Wikipedia,
Dec. 2016.
Cerney, Jan and Sago, Roberta. “Images of America – Spearfish.” Arcadia Publishing, Charleston SC, 2007.
“Economic Impacts of Historic Preservation in South Dakota.” Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, 2012,
Fielder, Mildred. “Carbonate, Lawrence County, South Dakota.” South Dakota Historical Collections, 1953,
Fine, John Christopher. “Biggest Nugget in the Black Hills.” True West – History of the American Frontier, Oct.
2014, < http://www.truewestmagazine.com/biggest-nugget-in-the-black-hills/>. Accessed 15 Dec. 2016.
Garrigan, Mary. “Passion Play’s 70 – year run to come to an end.” Rapid City Journal, August 2008,
5d7a-abc5-1b06cb043485.html>. Accessed 15 Dec. 2016. “Historians in Historic Preservation.” American Historical Association, professional-development/career-resources/careers-for-students-of-history/historians-in-historic- preservation>. Accessed 15 Dec. 2016. “Historic Preservation.” South Dakota State Historical Society, Dec. 2016. “Historical Notables.” Spearfish Canyon Foundation, “Historical Photos & Documents.” Black Hills Knowledge Network, Jan. 2015, archives#.WFJoYPkrLIU>. Accessed 15 Dec. 2016. “History.” Visit Spearfish, J. D. Irving, S. F. Emmons, and T. A. Jagger, Jr., “Economic Resources of the Northern Black Hills,” Professional Paper 28, (Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1904). “Programs.” Spearfish Area Historical Society, Sept. 2016, Accessed 15 Dec. 2016. “Spearfish, South Dakota.” Wikipedia, 2016. “Spearfish unveils new signs for historic buildings.” Historical Marker. Lawrence County Historical Society, Feb. 2012, 15 Dec. 2016. “Thoen Stone.” Wikipedia, Velder, Tim. “Tinton to mark a century of existence.” Rapid City Journal, July 2003. existence/article_c64e4b0c-3cde-5492-9f2e-6c494e182b19.html>. Accessed 15 Dec. 2016.