SHORT BREAK From Delhi Jhaltola for the British. Dressed as a Tibetan monk he + YS mapped trade routes through Ladakh, Nepal 3DA and Tibet. His rosary had 100 beads instead of Offbeat Kumaon the usual 108, and he would slip one every 10 strides to keep track of the distance. Altitude Jhaltola is a flashback to the Himalayas the way the legendary was established by measuring the temperature at which water boiled. Notes and maps drawn forester Jim Corbett knew them | By RISHAD SAAM MEHTA on silk were hidden in his prayer wheel. For his services, he was granted this estate and given the title of Rai Bahadur. The Royal Geographical Society awarded him a gold medal in 1876. All around Jhaltola, are unrestricted views of snow-capped Himalayan ranges, stretching from the Haathi and Gauri Parbat of the Garhwal Himalayas on the extreme left, the entire Kumaon Himalayas from the Nanda Ghunti to the Panchachuli in the centre, to the Aapi and Nampha group of peaks of the Nepal Himalayas on the extreme right. The most recognisable peaks are the dome-shaped Nanda Devi and the pyramid-like Nanda East to its right. EXPLORE RELAX This is a serious option here because you can gently rock yourself to a daytime nap in a hammock or lounge on a garden chair. One can look out at the Himalayas, read a book, or maybe even write one. If you sit still for a while, you’ll soon be aware the abundant birdsong. BIRDING Over 150 species and sub-species of birds have been identified, photographed, and catalogued here over the last two years. The ones seen on the Misty Mountains, a jungle retreat property, include three species of eagle (golden, mountain hawk, and Indian black), three species of owl (collared, Oriental The lush meadow of Pokhar (top) is a fantastic place to watch the sun set; According to Hindu mythology, Nanda Devi was Shiva’s consort. This statue of Shiva (bottom) overlooks the peak scops, and Asian barred) and six species of named after her, where it is believed she once resided. woodpecker (streak throated, brown-fronted, It has been decades since a Bengal tiger (top he Kumaon first came to me about so eloquently seemed to be a thing of Himalayan, scaly-bellied, Rufus bellied, than compensate for the hard work. There’s an Boraan, a Himalayan village on a mountaintop, left) has been spotted in Kumaon, but the through the pages of a Jim Corbett the past. and grey headed). Besides these there are ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva at the where the world seems to rotate at a slower fleeting chance of seeing one still lures visitors book. I read about a land of dense Then my luck turned. On my way to Pindari thrushes, babblers, warblers and flycatchers. summit, complete with a knowledgeable and pace, and Pokhar, a vantage point 20 minutes to the region. While the big cat is elusive, there PLE) are dozens of other animals to catch the eye; forests of oak and rhododendron Glacier with a group of friends, we decided O The resort owners are avid birders and often well-travelled baba. Sip a cup of his delicious away to see the sunset. Pokhar is a four-acre (PE Over 30 species of birds, including the tawny T where one might chance upon a tiger, of rivers to look for a place to unwind for a day or take guests on walks. Besides those spotted chai as you soak in the views and his stories. meadow surrounded by oak and rhododendron fish owl (right), can be spotted on the estate of teeming with mahseer and trout, of jungles two before our adventure began. Continuing within the resort, there are other birding The Ramganga birding spot is a 12 forests. It is also the haunt of a big male Misty Mountains and the owners frequently hhabra organise birding walks (bottom left). amidst dazzlingly white Himalayan peaks alive east past Almora, we climbed higher into the C locations that are good. These include Baans km/4-hour walk away, and makes for a lovely leopard and a female leopard, and we spotted HUR with birdsong. Kumaon on roads that progressively became D Pathan (25 km/1 hour by road) where a small day-long picnic. The hotel staff can act as fresh pug marks during our visit. Often heard A But even after many visits to the region’s narrower. Avoiding popular destinations like M rivulet flows into the Saryu River, and a spot guides and point out flora and fauna along the and sometimes seen are barking deer; their popular destinations, including Mukteshwar, Chaukori and Munsiyari, we made our way to near the Ramganga River (25 km/1 hour by way (guide charges `500-1,500). Visiting the sharp, cough-like call can indicate that there is Binsar, and Kausani, Corbett’s Kumaon eluded the hamlet of Jhaltola. The pages of Jungle road; 2 km/30 minutes on foot). underground limestone caves of pilgrimage a leopard in the vicinity. me. Understandably, there were no nonchalant Lore and My India finally came alive at Misty (TIGER & OWL), site Patal Bhuvaneshwar are a 16-km return big cats treading the jungle trails, but even Mountains Jungle Retreat. The four-acre site WALKS The area is surrounded by thick trek. The excursion takes eight hours on foot, FISHING Mahseer still frolic in the Ramganga. hta the chorus of birdlife that he often described is part of a 1,000-acre estate that belongs to forest and there are many different trails to including two hours spent in the caves. For To enjoy fishing you can drive for an hour and ME seemed to have migrated elsewhere. Most of Maheshwar Singh Rawat, a descendant of Rai explore. The most popular hike is the 3-km those who prefer to drive, Patal Bhuvaneshwar then trek for 30 minutes to a tranquil spot on AAM SHIVARAMAN SHIVARAMAN D S all, that sense of solitude, with only the lofty Bahadur Pandit Nain Singh Rawat. HIR uphill walk to Lamkeshwar. It is slightly is just 45 minutes away. the Ramganga to cast a line. You will need to D ISHA U mountains for company that Corbett wrote Nain Singh Rawat was a master spy explorer S strenuous but the views from the top more Other hikes include a short walk to Chak carry your own fishing gear. R 142 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2013 JULY 2013 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 143 SHORT BREAK From Delhi widened just enough to fit an SUV, though inexperienced drivers could still put a wheel over the edge. The resort is a collection of cottages and suites, constructed to blend in with the surroundings. There is an onsite activity centre with an indoor badminton court and table tennis table. There are also board games available. Food served is simple yet varied and made using produce from the bountiful kitchen garden. Meals generally include vegetarian and non-vegetarian (fish or chicken) options and the kitchen favours pahadi recipes. Don’t miss out on local favourites such as laikasaag, a Kumaoni speciality made with broad mustard leaves. The abandoned orchards have been coerced into bearing fruit and Ambika makes apple-cinnamon, strawberry, and apricot jams, and preserves from peaches, pears, and wild Himalayan raspberries. The view from Jhaltola encompasses several peaks of the Kumaon Himalayas, including Nanda There are a variety of stay options for Devi and Panchachuli visitors. Prices include breakfast, lunch, and DRIVES If you do want to take your car and dinner. Double and deluxe rooms have a drive to sightseeing locations then they are EAT & STAY garden sit out (doubles `3,800 and `4,500). Chaukori Tea Gardens (30 km/1 hour), An independent cottage located at the highest Birthi Waterfalls (70 km/2 hours) and Musk Run by Madhur and Ambika Chabbra, The point of the property offers the most privacy Deer Park at Kotmanya 5km/1 hour). Just Misty Mountains is a gem hidden in the middle and has a mezzanine floor with two extra a kilometre before The Misty Mountains, on of woods, and offers an unbridled view of the beds. Family suites have a master bedroom the dirt track, is a plateau on a hillock. If you Himalayas. Five years ago, as Nainital was and second room with bunk beds (doubles have an SUV, it is great fun to engage a four- overrun by tourists, the couple began a search `5,800). A large family cottage caters to wheel drive and off-road up to this plateau for a new home and fell in love with this place. groups of up to 14 (`1,900 per day per to catch the sunset. For a very brief moment, On their very first visit, they saw a leopard take person for a minimum of eight). Children just as the sun is about to disappear, Nanda down a barking deer—a scene out of a Jim (between 6-12 years) are charged `900 per Devi alone shines with the last rays, like a Corbett book. The property can be reached via day (80066 67722, 99270 39123; www. solitary orange beacon showing that all is well. a rarely-used 3 km mule track that has been themistymountains.in). n THE GUIDE Orientation journey at either Kathgodam Seasons ecologically conscious reserve Jhaltola is in the Pithoragarh (275 km/6 hours), Bhimtal (302 March to July is ideal to escape also has a solar water heater. district of eastern Uttarakhand. km/7 hours), or Almora (375 the heat and dust of the plains.