Voyager Issue 03 table of C O N T E N T S Letter From the Editors

Laos Dear Reader, by Lauren Hooda 01 We at Voyager are dedicated to providing a Jordan platform for students to share their diverse by Karina Hooda 04 experiences with other cultures. Published Istanbul on a trimesterly basis, we accept both written 07 by Priyani Karim and photographic submissions. After much dedicated work by our staff over the first 10 by Noah Montgomery trimester, it is with great pleasure that we present you with our third issue. We sincerely China (Mid Autumn Festival) hope that you enjoy reading our publication, by Stephanie Ge 13 for this issue was the product of much hard Berlin work on the parts of all of our writers, editors, 16 by Sabrina Lautin and other staff. We cannot wait to continue Iceland growing as a publication and publish more 19 by Alexandra Germer issues as the year goes on. We’re always looking for new writers Shanghai by Yeewen New and editors, so if you have any interest in 21 participating in our next issue, feel free to England send one of us an email. by Melanie Totenberg 26 Sincerely, Amsterdam Jeremy Robbins and Jonathan Bleiberg 30 by Lily McCarthy Editors In Chief and Founders of Voyager New Orleans 33 by Gedalia Schorsch Editors in Chief Jeremy Robbins Jonathan Bleiberg Managing Editor Matthew Oshrin Staff Members Steve Boland Timothy Chon Stephanie Ge Alexandra Germer Karina Hooda Lauren Hooda Priyani Karim Caroline Kivell Sabrina Lautin Asher Leffell Lily McCarthy Noah Montgomery Yeewen New Rebecca Okin Gedalia Schorsch Meredith Slifkin James Skala Melanie Totenberg Before 2007, I had never heard of Laos. Like a typical 10 year old, my first impression of Laos on a Google Map was quite judgmental and ignorant: it’s so tiny, I thought. Extremely small, especially compared to the size of America or even Thailand, a neighboring country. However, I soon came to realize that Laos was a country studded with natural and historical beauty, untouched by the deleterious effects of tourism. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Wat_Xieng_Thong_Laos.JPG Laos: Through the Mekong five-day cruise along and the sun’s rippling reflection villages. The first morning we the Mekong Riv- sparkling on the water. When docked at Pak Ou, around 10 er delivered my first the mist lifted during the day, I miles from the city of Luang Pra- taste of Laos’ beauty. could see hills on either side of bang, Laos. Pak Ou is home to A The Mekong River, the river, packed with lush veg- several sacred caves, including flowing from the Tibetan Pla- etation stretching on for miles. the Cave of the Thousand Bud- teau to Vietnam, is a series Occasionally local villages, dhas. Approaching these caves of sharp twists and turns cra- perched on the shores, would from the river yielded a spec- dled between undulating hills. peek out from behind the thick tacular view. I could see white In the mornings, a hushed greenery. I remember waving stairs leading into the dark, mist would form over the riv- to natives in wooden stilt hous- where the cave gaped into the er, adding to its stillness and es or to children on long tailed side of the limestone cliff. The vastness. Sunrise over the boats, fishing in the silty water. inside of these caves was load- Mekong was breathtaking. I Every day my family, ed with thousands of ancient was mesmerized by the sun- along with our guide, would Buddha statues. Some were light pouring through the mist stop for an excursion into local gold-leafed, and most were 01 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Wat_Xieng_Thong_Laos.JPG Top: A view of Wat Xieng Thong, Bottom: The interior of Wat Xieng Thong, Right: Laoatians gather for an evening prayer service, Previous Page: Sunrise over the Mekong River painted in multiple hues. Several depicted a sitting Buddha in meditation, while others fea- tured a standing Buddha in prayer with cupped hands. The intricate, unique designs and pos- tures enlivened the statues, giving them both individuality and personality and astounding me with the significance of Buddhism to this culture. Another morning we visited the pictur- esque Wat Xieng Thong, a monastery situat- ed at the intersection of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Until 1975, the wat, or monastery, was under the patronage of the royal family where kings were crowned. Wat Xieng Thong is now one of the most important Lao monaster- ies and is a testament to the spirit of Buddhism, royalty, and 16th century art. The temple com- plex is huge, with a sim, or ordination hall, and numerous shrines, pavilions, and residences for monks. I distinctly remember tons of gold: gilded wooden doors depicting scenes from Buddha’s life, golden Buddhas in incense-fra- granced rooms and gold thread embroidery in 02 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f7/Laos_-_Luang_Prabang_100_-_evening_prayer_at_Wat_Xieng_Thong_(6582764551).jpg

“I recall seeing at least a hundred male monks, draped in thin orange robes, lining the cobblestone streets outside the temple” carpets and reliefs. I learned ribly confused; I wondered pline and meditation. that every symbol and every why they all carried baskets Even as a mere 10 wall represented a special and why the locals and tour- year old, I realized that aspect of Buddhism. In the ists bore fruits and pack- Laos was more than a tiny sim, the ceiling displayed ets of wrapped in palm country positioned between dharma wheels represent- leaves. I later learned that major South Asian countries ing Buddhist law and the these foods were morning like Vietnam and China. circle of reincarnation. The offerings to monks who took Laos was a country of inher- outer walls of the monastery vows of poverty as a means ent natural and archaeolog- depicted glass mosaics of of discovering the path to ical beauty possessing the Lao legends and the Tree of simplicity. I realized that essence of Buddhist spiri- Life. these monks, some younger tuality and tranquility. Laos’ On our last morning, I than I, were not to be looked wonders are hardly noticed recall seeing at least a hun- on with pity. Although they by the rest of the world, and dred male monks, draped lived a fundamentally hard so, in a way, are all the more in thin orange robes, lining and humble lifestyle, they special. the cobblestone streets out- had attained serenity and side the temple. I was ter- composure through disci- 03 Jordan: The Siq, The Sea, and The Sand

ordan, which lies in the center of the The famed archaeological site of Petra, named Middle East, is a truly unique country a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, is one due to its people, food, and culture. of the most recognizable attractions in Jordan. J Due to its desirable location in the The extensive site, also known as the Rose City crossroads of Europe and Asia, the due to the color of its stone, was undoubtedly region was coveted by numerous ancient the highlight of my trip. To me, the site is a powers, including the Persians, Romans, representation of Jordan itself, a blend of and Macedonian Greeks. Greek, Roman and Arabic influence. The actual

http-::www.101-charger.com:wallpapers:12529-jordan-petra-treasury-camel.jpg location of the site of Petra is hidden deep in the Siq, a dim and narrow gorge that winds its way to Petra’s most famed ruin, Al Khazneh, or the Treasury. The Siq is phenomenal and unnatural, the two sides of this canyon have been near-perfectly split by tectonic forces. Unusual terra-cotta colored rocks loom on both sides as you walk for one kilometer on the route to the site. Thousands of people walk or ride colorful saddle-laden camels through the Siq each day, but despite this it is hushed and Top: A camel at the Petra Treasury peaceful, a natural wonder. This walk is topped Bottom: A monastery cut into the rock at Petra only by the sight of the Treasury itself, as first

http-::travelbeautifulplace.com:uploads:places:images:full:Jordan-Petra-Monastery.jpg 04 seen through the slim crack between the two sides of the Siq. Carved out of the rose colored sandstone, the structure’s sheer size, as well as its columns and door, is just stunning. The Treasury is the most elaborate of all the structures in Petra and features Hellenistic architecture, a product of Seleucid rule. Beyond the Treasury are countless other structures, including living areas and tombs of the Nabataeans, the people who built most of the site, and the remains of classical Roman temples and roads. A thorough blend of Roman, Greek and Nabatean buildings, Petra, the city carved into stone, is truly a reason http-::upload.wikimedia.org:wikipedia:commons:7:7a:Dead_sea_ on its own to visit Jordan. newspaper.jpg

“a strange feeling of weightlessness Another famous Jordanian tourist overtook me” attraction is the Dead Sea. With its surface and shores some 1,388 ft http://www.flickr.com/photos/vadimlavrusik/3593563178/lightbox/ below sea level, the Sea is earth’s lowest point. Aside from the hotels that line the beach bordering the Dead Sea, buildings here are sparse. The Sea is well-known, mentioned in diverse sources from the Bible to Aristotle, and is legendary as a source of healing. As such, it has become a popular center for health, rehabilitation and beauty treatments. I noticed numerous tourists, streaming out of their hotels and slathering on sunscreen to experience the salt infused waters. This area, more than any other in Jordan that I visited, had a distinctly western feel, and there were a quite a few restaurants that sold westernized food. The hotels were luxuriously styled, but without the traditional Jordanian decor or rules, like the ban on drinking alcohol that other hotels in Jordan had. This change in attitude and atmosphere was probably crafted to increase the appeal to tourists. The water was filled with salt, which lay in large chunks along the shore and gave the water a strange and almost greasy feel. Most of the hotels offer free ‘mud’, the clay and salt mixture found at the bottom of the Dead Sea which supposedly contains minerals good for the skin. After rubbing it on and stepping into the water, a strange feeling of weightlessness overtook me. It is difficult to wade through the water without floating up, as it really is impossible to sink- the water almost pushes you up to the surface. The vivid history and special properties of the Dead Sea make it a fascinating place for people visit. 05 http-::3.bp.blogspot.com:-X1QfxFe2l68:T1NljQN-WdI:AAAAAAAAAqs:X8LysLnNIq0:s1600:wadi+rum+camp+2.jpg

A group of Bedouins in the Wadi Rum Desert Silent and pristine, the drank enough water). There is handwoven carpets. We were Wadi Rum desert is almost no real infrastructure in Wadi served sweet mint tea, which otherworldly. Located in Rum, leaving the area quite was made with real mint southern Jordan, the desert unspoiled. The only sound is strained in the hot water they is unlike any other, with bright that of the wind, enhancing the were boiling. The Bedouin clay colored sand heaped feeling that one is stranded in host talked to us a little bit, in dunes that stretch out for the middle of nowhere. The asking where we came from, what seems like forever, only permanent inhabitants and how we liked Jordan so and enormous mountain- are several thousand Bedouin far. A key aspect of Jordanian like rock structures sticking nomads and villagers. After culture is the hospitality shown out of the sand sporadically. a bumpy drive in a jeep to by hosts to their guests; this The contrast between the flat some Bedouin tents, we were warm hospitality is a hallowed sandy land and the looming invited in, with our guide tradition originating from the rock structures is so striking, I serving as a translator. We Bedouins themselves. This is had to look again to make sure were immediately ushered felt throughout Jordan where I was not just seeing things into the tent, and sat in front the phrase “ahlan wa sahlan” (and ask myself whether I had of a fire among countless (which translates to “I welcome you”) is heard often. During my visit to the Bedouin tents, I felt this hospitality through the actions and gestures of the hosts as well as other visitors. My interaction with them was memorable; their humble and hospitable nature is hard to forget. The deeply ingrained sense of Bedouin culture and natural beauty make the Wadi Rum desert a very special http-::www.shedexpedition.com:wp-content:uploads:2013:11:camel-safari-wadi-rum-jor- place. dan-arabian-desert.jpg 06 Camels rest in the Wadi Rum desert http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/63/Imam_Mosque_3Daa.jpg

Istanbul’s Majestic Marvels The first destination during my trip around Europe this summer was the most populous city in Europe: Istanbul, Turkey. Although it is not the capital (that distinction belongs to Ankara), it is the country’s cultural and economic hub. Istanbul spans across the Bosphorus Strait that divides Asia and Europe. I’ve been to Istanbul twice before, so I knew what to expect before I got there. Nevertheless, I was amazed by the city’s blend of Christian and Islamic cultures. During the ten days I was there, I visited several historical sites, including the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (also known as the Blue Mosque) and the famous Hagia Sophia.

07 The Sultan Ahmed Mosque was completed in 1616. As I walked up the stairs to the mosque in a sundress and sandals, I was stopped before entering. I was asked to put an ankle- length gown over my outfit and to cover my hair with a headscarf. I was also asked to take my shoes off and carry them in my handbag. I was asked to do these things in order to be respectful of the religious services that still occur at the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. http-::upload.wikimedia.org:wikipedia:commons:7:76:Flickr_-_%E2%80%A6trialsanderrors_-_ Even though it’s open to Mosque_of_Sultan_Ahmet_I%2C_interior%2C_Constantinople%2C_Turkey%2C_ca._1895.jpg visitors, the mosque – also known as the Blue Mosque “The inside of the Mosque is covered with – is still a place of worship for Muslims. The inside Turkish hand-painted ceramic tiles and of the mosque is covered stained glass windows. Most of them are with Turkish hand-painted ceramic tiles and stained decorated with floral motifs and some are glass windows. Most of them are decorated with inscribed with Arabic caligraphy.” floral motifs and some are inscribed with Arabic calligraphy. Light pours into the interior of the mosque through windows that line the dome-shaped ceiling, while simple chandeliers hang closer to the ground to provide more practical lighting. The part of the mosque that I was allowed to visit was a single open, airy room. There weren’t any exhibitions to see, so I spent a few minutes walking around and observing the mosque’s breathtaking interior. http-::www.flickr.com:photos:freeflight046:3171842374:sizes:o:in:photostream:.jpg 08 Going to the Hagia Sophia was a very different experience, in part because it is more of a tourist attraction. For example, waiting in line to buy tickets for the Hagia Sophia took about half an hour, while there was almost no crowd at the Blue Mosque. The Hagia Sophia, built in 537 CE, functioned as a cathedral for over 900 years and as a mosque for almost 500 years. It is no longer used for religious purposes and is now a UNESCO World Heritage “It is said that if one makes a wish and sticks his or her thumb inside a small hole in the column and feels water, his or her wish will come true” The famous Hagia Sofia, constructed as a cathedral and later converted to a mosque after the Turkish conquest Site. My family and I were includes mosaics of biblical were originally dedicated to given a tour of the museum by figures and large medallions the same purpose, prayer. a very old man, who was a local with Arabic calligraphy all While one has maintained tour guide. Although I learned around. The most interesting this original purpose, the a lot about the history of the aspect of the Hagia Sophia other has been converted Hagia Sophia from what he was the wishing column. It is into a tourist attraction. In told me, I was more interested said that if one makes a wish many ways, this contrast is in exploring the building itself and sticks his or her thumb representative of the difficulty than listening to his lecture. inside a small hole in the faced by many cities that wish The Hagia Sophia, like the Blue column and feels water, his to attract the considerable Mosque, has a large dome- or her wish will come true. economic boost that tourism shaped ceiling with windows I tried making a wish, but I provides: how to preserve surrounding it and a chandelier didn’t feel anything – many their traditional identities close to the ground. Its marble other people say they have while accommodating foreign walls are mosaicked in mostly though! visitors. As Istanbul seeks to dark green and gold. Because Over the course of my visit define itself in the future, this the building was both Eastern to Istanbul, I enjoyed two question is one of the principal Orthodox Christian and Muslim very different experiences challenges that the city will at different points in time, it with two buildings that have to confront. 09 A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH NICARAGUA

n Nicaragua, the culture family in Granada, a city located in the west surrounding food goes beyond of the country. Granada is unlike many other Ithe food itself. By any standards, Central American cities in that it is dominated Nicaraguan cuisine is rich and broad, by Spanish colonial architecture, at least in thanks in large part to the diverse the older parts of the city. In terms of food, abundance of ingredients available it is also somewhat unique, though much of due to the tropical climate. Over the Granada’s cuisine is shared with other parts summer, I spent a month with a host of Nicaragua. http-::www.flickr.com:photos:jesjimher:3961166041:sizes:o:in:photostream:.jpg

A traditional Nicargauan featuring eggs and gallo pinto 10 In Granada, there is a wide range of dishes that are considered platos típicos, or traditional dishes. Though personal opinions may vary slightly among residents, there is for the most part a unified sense of which dishes deserve the appellation. Gallo pinto, which literally translates to spotted rooster, is the most common dish by far. It consists of rice and cooked together in such a way that some of the color of the beans is transferred to the http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/54/Costa_Rican_Gallo_Pinto.jpg rice, giving it a distinctive look. It is served both as a meal by itself and as a side with other dishes. It is Gallo Pinto almost impossible to exaggerate the significance This dish consists of cooked of gallo pinto in Nicaraguan cuisine. While I was together in such a way that some of the color of the beans is transferred to the rice, in Granada, I ate gallo pinto at least once almost giving it a distinctive look. every day, and often more. There are even t-shirts sold at many shops, albeit mainly those geared towards tourists, which feature a drawing of gallo pinto on the front. Another traditional food is nacatamal, which is immediately recognizable for its being cooked and served wrapped inside banana or plantain leaves. The first time I had nacatamal, I had never seen anything served like it before and, much to the amusement of my host family, I thought it was meant to be eaten like a sandwich using the banana http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Nacatamales_in_steamer.jpg leaves as the bread. They quickly explained to me that it had to be unwrapped first. Upon doing Nacamatal so, I saw the inside of the package, which looked This traditional food is nacamatal, which somewhat like mashed potatoes and was made is immediately recognizable for its being from a mixture of rice, cornmeal, and some sort of cooked and served wrapped inside banana or plantain leaves.” meat, typically pork. In the park at the center of Granada, there is a small shop, generally referred to as a quiosco, or kiosk, that sells freshly prepared vigorón, another traditional Nicaraguan dish whose main ingredients are yuca and cabbage. After I had eaten there, my host mother proclaimed that I had now eaten all the traditional Nicaraguan foods. This struck me as an interesting thing to say because it reflected a difference between the culture surrounding food in the U.S. and in Nicaragua. I doubt that I would http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/09/VIGORON.JPG be able to comfortably say exactly what traditional American foods are, much less be able to say that I have eaten them all. Vigorón This traditonal Nicaraguan dish’s main ingredients are yuca and cabbage. http-::www.flickr.com:photos:a-barth:65358738:sizes:o:in:photostream:.jpg “The market is packed with stands which sell all sorts of food. There are sections for meat, vegetables, fruit, grains and beans and each section contains at least a dozen individual vendors” Of course, the cuisine in whose displays and racks triangular, usually covered in various parts of Nicaragua of items overflow onto the sugar, and the larger versions varies. I had the chance sidewalk in many spots. During are traditionally filled with to visit local high schools the day, this area is almost honey. several times while I was always crowded with people, in Nicaragua, and, on one who have no choice but to of those occasions, there walk in the street, making it Even as some aspects was a small culture fair at almost impossible for cars to of Nicaraguan which students presented pass. The market is packed information about other with stands which sell all sorts culture are slowly parts of Nicaragua. This of food. There are sections for included samples of the meat, vegetables, fruit, grains, changing as a result most common foods in those and beans and each section of external influences regions, most of which I was contains at least a dozen already familiar with because individual vendors. Parts of the and modernization, of their popularity in Granada market are just along the side as well. of La Calle Comercial or other the traditions Even though there are now nearby streets, but other parts surrounding food are supermarkets in Granada, are covered by tin roofs under many people, including my which there is a maze of stands. still going strong and host family, choose to buy Outside of the market, there are the bulk of their food from the also many family owned stores remain an integral more traditional marketplace. that make and sell food. For part of the country’s It is located at the end of instance, near my host family’s La Calle Comercial, which house there were several culture. translates to the commercial bakeries, each of which sold street. This street is made its own variation of a type of up almost entirely of shops bread known as pico. Pico is 12 http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2524/4000641774_3331fe06fb_o.jpg

A full moon for the Mid-Autumn Festival A Chinese Thanksgiving

n late November, Moon Festival. My family to be a symbol of family people across celebrates the Mid-Autumn harmony and cohesiveness. America will be Festival every year; the During this holiday, I gather cooking turkeys holiday is held in mid-autumn with family and friends to I and eating stuffing. on the 15th day of the 8th celebrate the end of harvest When you look at other month on the Traditional season and hope for good cultures you can see that Chinese Calendar (usually fortune for the next year. there are many international mid-late September, but the The Mid-Autumn Festival is holidays similar to America’s date varies year to year). celebrated through different Thanksgiving, including one This day is chosen because customs in different parts of that I celebrate--China’s Mid- it is considered to be the day China: my family’s customs Autumn Festival, also known on which the moon is fullest, include moon-gazing, eating as Mooncake Festival or and a full moon is considered mooncake, carrying brightly- 13 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/ChiangKaiShek-MemorialHall-LanternFestival.jpg Lanterns at Chiang-Kai Shek Memorial

lit lanterns, and sometimes lanterns, and parents the Moon Goddess and burning incense. This would be telling their celebrate the fall harvest. holiday was never religious children about the story of Another line of thought is in any way, rather, it was a the Moon Goddess. that that the festival honors holiday I looked forward to Similar to American the Chinese resistance where I could have fun with Thanksgiving’s pilgrim against Mongol rule under my friends and family. Since story, there is an old the Yuan Dynasty. Since I was born in Hong Kong story passed down from mooncakes were an and lived there for seven generation to generation exclusively Chinese treat, years, I have celebrated relating to the holiday. the Chinese rebels would this holiday for my entire Although there is no sneak messages inside of life. Each year, my family single, clear origin of the mooncakes that provided would gather with friends, Mid-Autumn Festival, my details about upcoming go down to our city’s family has told me that plans. beach, and light lanterns the holiday stems from a Unlike American while eating mooncakes three thousand year old Thanksgiving, the Mid- on the sand. The night sky tradition in which people Autumn Festival’s origin would be filled with floating would gather to exalt is a less prominent 14 element of the holiday. The main story shared with me that has been passed down through generations is an ancient Chinese legend about the moon goddess, Chang’e. While eating mooncakes on the beach, my parents would tell my friends and me this ancient tale, although this is not the only version of this legend. The story tells of a beautiful young girl named Chang’e who accidentally angers the Jade Emperor, who then banishes her to live on earth as a mortal. Around this time, the Jade http---upload.wikimedia.org-wikipedia-commons-3-39-Moon_Cakes Emperor turned his ten sons Chinese moon cakes, traditionally consumed during the into ten suns, threatening the Mid-Autumn Festival http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/com- earth. To defend earth, I also have been mons/5/5b/HK_SYP_Queen’s_Road_West_ a man named Houyi taught that the reason we Mid-Autumn_Festival_Lanterns_01_Shop.JPG was summoned to the light lanterns is so that Emperor’s court. Houyi the earth and sky would was an expert archer and light up, allowing Chang’e killed nine of the ten suns, to see everyone on earth. leaving one to provide We were told that when the earth light. Houyi then fell moon is brightest, on the http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/com- in love with Chang’e and day of this festival, there is a mons/d/d5/Mid-Autumn_Festival-beijing.jpg went looking for a pill that shadow on the moon in the would make both him and shape of the Jade Rabbit, Chang’e immortal, since one of the characters he knew how much she from the Chang’e legend. missed immortality. The Although I don’t follow Queen Mother of the West many of the customs of the provided Houyi with the pill Mid-Autumn Festival such http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8458/8027095 052_1005b8856a_o.jpg and told him that only half as lighting lanterns since a pill was needed to grant moving to New York, finding immortality and that any the rabbit on the full moon more would be dangerous. has never gotten old, and Unfortunately, Chang’e I still find it fun to do every swallowed the entire pill Mid-Autumn Festival as behind Houyi’s back and well as enjoy the delicious Various lantern displays for the festival floated to the moon, leaving mooncakes. Houyi to die of grief. 15 The Berlin Wall: A Relic of Division turned Symbol of Freedom erlin, the capital of Germany, has undergone a huge transformation. Once the capital of Prussia, Berlin is Bnow an urban metropolis that is rich in culture, science, and technology; however, this success did not come free. During World War II, Berlin acted as the center for the Nazi Regime, and, following the war, the city was divided based on agreements from the Yalta Conference. East Berlin was occupied by the Soviet Union, and West Berlin was occupied by the United States, the United Kingdom, and France. The Berlin Wall was erected by the German Democratic Republic, which was comprised of those in the eastern section of the city and of the country, as a means of separating the socialists in East Berlin from West Berlin. From 1961 to 1989, the Wall restricted movement from East to West Berlin, with attempts to cross it often resulting in death by armed patrol forces. In 1989, following changes in the leadership and politics in East Berlin, which resulted in the usurping of the authoritarian government, the Wall ceased to act as a barrier between the two sides of the city and free passage went into effect. Although parts of the Berlin Wall still stand, the structure no longer acts as a separating entity; rather, it unifies the city through both sides’ shared A photograph from November 9th, 1989, the day the history. Berlin Wall fell 16 As part of the process of reconciling with the relic completely. Real estate developers’ city’s polarized past, people have turned the remorseless gentrification of the industrial gray, concrete monolith of a wall into a form of yet up-and-coming areas along Spree art. The sections that haven’t been shipped River involved the removal of sections of off to museums in other countries and are still the , inciting public outcry. standing comprise the East Side Gallery, the Politicians and the developers conceded to largest remaining stretch of the Wall. The leave some of it standing, but not without East Side Gallery is what the name implies: a demolishing some of what they initially gallery of graffiti-art in East Berlin with artistic planned to remove to make a passage for depictions of the controversy surrounding the construction vehicles. The visual assault Wall and of the post-war division of Berlin. One of hundreds of vibrantly colored, quixotic of the most famous paintings I saw in the East depictions of the hardships endured during Side Gallery was “The Kiss,” by Dmitri Vrubel, Berlin’s era of separation was no match for

which depicts the fraternal kiss between the real estate developers. , a Soviet government official, Some argue that taking away parts of the and , a German communist Berlin Wall strips Berlin of its character, yet politician, at the time when the two signed a this is not the only repercussion of the Wall’s document stating that and the demise. The more sections of the Berlin Soviet Union would provide each other with Wall are taken away, the less attention weapons, fuel, and artillery. Other paintings people will give to this aspect of the city’s I looked at included a dove holding the ball- history. What made and continues to make and-chain of a prisoner behind bars and pop- the East Side Gallery a popular tourist color faces that were reminiscent of a Keith attraction is the connection visitors felt to this Haring mural. Unfortunately, with parts of important piece of Germany’s past. Gazing the Wall already torn down, partitioned, and down the length of the wall inspires a sense shipped off, the impending crisis of urban of awe at the realness of the city’s division, development threatens to demolish the and contemplation of how one breach in 17 the wall created for tourists solidity and magnitude of the to walk through affects the Wall’s continuation through continuity of this separation. East Berlin, creates a more The tangibility of a bygone meaningful experience than epoch appeals to those who one could get from a book or seek a more substantial photograph; however, even experience than what can though the Berlin Wall is be gained by visiting a known and appreciated by museum. Interacting with many, the evolution of the the city’s history through a city favors those that can visual representation of the keep up with the changing mixed emotions of those times. who endured the political bisection, and witnessing the

“The tangibility of a bygone epoch appeals to those who seek a more substantial experience than what can be gained by visiting a museum.”

http-::farm3.staticflickr.com:2556:41999 74813_12697f4053_o.jpg 18 Iceland: Days of Darkness

With winter fast approaching, a common complaint is that the fewer hours of daylight make days seem more depressing and make people feel more tired. For most, the 9 hours and 9 minutes of daylight that New York gets on the shortest day of the year are already enough to dampen one’s spirits. Nonetheless, our situation pales in comparison to the situation in Iceland. For most of the winter, During the winter, the sun rises for only about five hours each day the sun rises for only about 5 hours in the “Even then, it barely mark, and their celebrations put America’s 4th of July cel- northern island nation. rises above the horizon, Even then, it barely ebrations to shame. There were parades, parties, con- rises above the horizon, leaving the country in certs, speeches, and lots of leaving the country in a a perpetual cycle of candy. And because it was perpetual cycle of dusk dusk and darkness.” light for so long, most of the and darkness. During While foreigners might as- festivities went long into the the summer, the country sume that the limited sunlight night. I was surprised at the experiences the opposite makes for depressing liv- enthusiasm of Icelanders. extreme, with about 21 ing conditions for half of the While most American 4th of hours of sunlight on year, the people of Iceland do July celebrations are limited average. Even after the not seem to let their winter’s to barbeques and fireworks, sun sets, it is still bright darkness affect them. In fact, the Icelandic counterpart had enough to see without the Icelanders that I met on more than its share of cheer- artificial lights. While the my trip seemed much friend- ing, shouting, and singing. effects of this situation lier and more enthusiastic Despite the chilly weather, are difficult to measure, about their culture than most almost everyone was outside it is clear that Iceland is New Yorkers are. I was there celebrating and having fun. still a thriving culture— for Iceland’s Independence They all seemed to be genu- life continues even as the Day, which celebrates their inely excited about their inde- sun disappears. independence from Den- pendence. 19 Part of what surprised me was how believe that elves, trolls, and dwarves, reside in little daily life in Iceland is affected by the most beautiful hills and rocks; roads have the darkness. Reykjavík, the country’s even been rerouted so as not to disturb elves capital, is like any other small city, with that live in the surrounding rocks. culture, restaurants, and shops that are just as busy in the winter as they are in the summer. Shops are usually open from 10 am – 6 pm no matter the season or amount of light. When I was there, I hardly noticed the extra sunlight, primarily because most houses and hotels are equipped with black-out

http-::upload.wikimedia.org:wikipedia:commons:e:ee:Seljavallalaug_hills.JPG

“80% of Icelanders believe that elves, trolls, and dwarves reside in the most beautiful hills and rocks; roads have even been rerouted so as not to disturb elves that live in the surrounding curtains that completely block out the sunlight at night. I also noticed that the rocks.” nightlife and culture is not influenced by the varying light. Before visiting, I expected the perpetual Clearly, to us it seems foreign and interesting presence of light to be quite strange. that Iceland goes from 21 hours of daylight to But there are so many other interesting just 5 hours, but to them, it is a way of life. It is things about the country that after a while hard to draw conclusions about the effects on I forgot about the light. For example, the overall mood of the country, but there are Iceland has such a small population so many other interesting things about Iceland that citizens are listed by first name in to consider, not just its crazy light schedule. the phone book. And 80% of Icelanders 20 http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/9065104011_c7bbf4dff5_o.jpg

SHANGHAI: ON THE BUND

he Bund is a waterfront area in central Shanghai, running along the western bank of the Huang “As I crossed the stone steps that Pu River. It is one of the most led up to the riverbank one night, I T famous Shanghai destinations for tourists like me to travel to. During the was unprepared to witness mass- summer, people from all corners of the es of people—tourists and natives world stroll along the long, circular path of the Zhongshan Road that stretches alike—dancing, singing, taking for nearly a mile around the river. Right pictures, strolling, and, like myself, across the bay, several skyscrapers observing.” crane their necks towards the sky above. While these constructions are vivid in color and diverse in architecture in the day, they dazzle with iridescent light in the night. In fact, the entire Bund region

21 https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/Shanghai_pudong_as_seen_from_the_bund.jpg The view of Shanghai from the Bund

seems to glow after nine was in awe of the different groups milled about the o’clock—from the lamps architectural designs of road, taking photographs that dot the riverbank to the the skyscrapers across and listening to tour multicolored lights adorning the bay—all consolidated guides explain the history each and every building in on one, miniscule piece behind every building. I the area. of land. From the curving, had believed that this jam- When my family and I metallic spheres of the packed, crowded mob of visited Shanghai last Oriental Pearl Tower to people was rowdy enough, summer, we visited and the stacked floor layers but it was not until my first walked along that very road of the Jin Mao Financial night visit on the Bund that I several times. The first time Tower, the view from the truly experienced the extent I looked over the fence that Zhongshan Road during to which festivities could separates the road from the day was exquisite. come about in this region. the rough waters below, I Several families and tourist There is no shortage of

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6165/6154142870_fba8b43f89_o.jpg The view of Shanghai from the Bund at night 22 “As the music played throughout the area, several people would join together to form flash mobs and move rhythmically in make- shift dance moves. ”

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/9067311008_dabe4f9fb0_o.jpg Top: An art installation along the Bund, Middle: The Bund remains busy after the sun sets, Bottom: An aerial view of the Bund culture on the Bund. All of the http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/90/ THE_BUND_SHANGHAI_AT_NIGHT_CHINA_OCT_2012_ drum-bangers and lantern- (8797026809).jpg/1280px-THE_BUND_SHANGHAI_AT_NIGHT_ hangers in the city seem to CHINA_OCT_2012_(8797026809).jpg unite on Zhongshan Road once night falls and the skyscrapers light up to give the area an even more festive atmosphere. As I crossed the stone steps that led up to the riverbank one night, I was unprepared to witness masses of people—tourists and natives alike—dancing, singing, taking pictures, strolling, and, like myself, observing. Groups of young men formed musical bands and blared jazz and popular music from their saxophones, not so different from the way street performers entertain in New York City. As the music played throughout the area, several people would join together to form flash mobs and move rhythmically in makeshift dance moves. These people were generally young and were absolutely not to be mistaken for the older women who were doing aerobic exercises to soft, yoga music in small groups as http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/65/The_bund,_ looking_south_as_viewed_from_the_custom_house_bell_tower.JPG well. 23 http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2493/4106847286_e8c83f9b50_o.jpg

Sightseeing tunnel #6, an art installation on the Bund WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW My grandmother, a Chinese intrigued with the several ABOUT THE BUND woman well into her sixties, skyscrapers on the other side decided to join in. My entire of the bay. There were so -The Bund is 1.8 family laughed as she joined many of them and each one the back of the crowd and looked completely unique. I kilometers long caught onto the light, effortless wondered what each one was movements quickly. Even constructed for. -The Bund has a after the song completed, we My mother had lived in total area of 11 could not get her to leave, so Shanghai for twenty years. we told her to meet us at the When I asked her about the hectares end of the road in an hour. buildings, she managed to My younger sister had point out the distinguished -In 2010, Shanghai wanted to document her ones to me. held a competition entire summer and put her “That,” she said, pointing pictures into a photo album to the one with the layered to redesign the when school started. After floors, “is the Jin Mao Da Bund. As part of leaving my grandmother, she Sha. It contains offices and ran towards the fence that the Shanghai Grand Hyatt the renovation, a separates Zhongshan Road Hotel. Next to it is Shanghai six-lane highway from the dark river waters World Financial Center,” she with her camera, squeezing said, gesturing to a taller was diverted to an past throngs of other tourists construction shaped like an underground tun- and dragging the rest of my extremely tall trapezoid. The family to take pictures with building was entirely made of nel her. After I blinked out the glass and reflected all of the Source: http://www.nbbj.com/work/shang- light in my eyes from dozens lights around it in a glaring hai-bund/ of camera flashes, I became brilliance. 24 “And that,” she said, directing her finger to the tallest one, complete with three metallic spheres and lights in every color of the rainbow, “is the Dong Fang Ming Zhu. We took you to the Oriental Pearl Tower when you were three, but you probably don’t remember. It is the center for television and communications for the entire city.” “What about that one?” I asked, pointing to the dark shape beside it that was still covered in construction sheets. “That’s what will be the http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/20090427_5361_Shanghai_Oriental_Pearl_ Shanghai Tower. It is still Tower.jpg under construction, but it Top: A view of the Oriental Pearl Tower, Bottom: A couple strolls along the is planned to be the tallest Bund structure in China by the end of 2014. Don’t worry, we’ll take you back to see it after it is completed,” she said, laughing. I smiled back and glanced around my surroundings. A young couple tagged behind a toddler, who was tottering ahead with a small lantern in his hand. A photographer was hollering at a family of four to straighten their backs for a picture. My grandmother was still dancing and doing exercises with a group of strangers she would probably never meet again. I could not wait to come back and experience culture on the Bund all over again.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/9065157391_fc24d2922e_o.jpg 25 VOYAGES IN AFTERNOON TEA

Over the summer I did a pre-college Voyages in Afternoon Tea, the program with Summerfuel in Oxford. name has a nice ring to it doesn’t We stayed and studied at Lady Mar- it? It’s a name that conjures up garet Hall, one of the many colleges images of tea clippers, three that makes up Oxford University. The tiers of crust-less sandwiches, program allows you to pick two class- scones, and ladies in finery with their pinkies in the air, among es, a major and a minor; I picked Cre- others. But what was the class ative Writing as my major, and Voyages truly about? Why would there in Afternoon Tea as my minor. Now, even be a class about tea? Well, this is the part where you’re probably the simple answer is because the thinking Voyages in Afternoon Tea and British are obsessed with their is there really a class about tea? Well, tea. Tea is as integral a part of yes and it’s not nearly as frivolous as it being British as respecting the sounds. Let me explain. queen. 26 Many people thought that finger sandwiches, and mini fuel your day and give you all we did in that class was pastries. The practice was energy, to fill you up when sit around sipping tea and started with the Duchess of you’re feeling peckish, and nibbling on biscuits, and Bedford who ordered a pot something to comfort you sometimes scones. While it of tea and a light snack in and give you warmth when is true that we did sit around, the afternoon to keep her you’re feeling down. These and we did drink tea and eat hunger at bay. In her time qualities associated with biscuits, that only scratches only two main meals were tea are what make it the the surface of what we did served daily, breakfast national drink of Britain, and learned in that class. and . Dinner was far more popular than We did not learn silly things served around 8 o’clock. coffee. In fact, the reason like how to properly drink The practice spread, and why Americans became tea; however, we explored eventually became high so crazy about coffee was the history and the cultural tea as we know it today, because coffee replaced significance of tea all around also known as afternoon tea. Tea was seen as being the world. British tea is more tea. High tea is not a daily emblematic of England, than just high tea. For those tradition, but is reserved and after the Revolutionary who don’t know what high for special occasions, as it War, as Americans wanted tea is, high tea is a British tea tends to be rather pricey. to cut their ties and ceremony that involves three Tea in Britain takes on an dependence on England, tiered stands of scones, iconic role as something to they drank coffee instead. 27 During my time in Oxford, we went on a the tea leaves are picked or, in other words, number of excursions. We went to two the growing season. First flush tea is the tea different tea shops in Oxford, where we grown and harvested in Spring, which is the learned about the prices of tea in relation first growing season. Tea picked in the first to quality. One of the shops was older and flush is supposed to be more delicate and cluttered with souvenir tea boxes in the shape have a lighter color, and is typically produced of London guards, buses, and the iconic in lower quantities than other flushes. Paddington Bear. We were all cramped and I also visited the Ashmolean Museum where crowded in the tiny shop scribbling down I saw tea sets from different centuries. the list of tea prices. Our teacher got one Originally, porcelain teacups and teapots

of the employees to show us what some of came from China, so the motifs were of the tea looked like. The dragon pearl tea, fields, Chinese plants, and Chinese style received its name because it came from houses. Then as the British love for tea grew, China and its leaves were furled together the teacups became what we now think of in the shape of a tiny pearl. The second as the traditional teacup and saucer. These store was more modern, and light, and new teacups featured yellows, reds, greens, was filled with delicate porcelain teaware, as opposed to the traditional white with dark special house tea blends like Sticky Toffee blue detailing. These new teacups featured Pudding and Vanilla Shortbread, as well as roses, fruits, and European landscapes. I fancy hot chocolate blends. I learned that find it really interesting how the British took the most expensive kind of tea is first flush something that was initially so foreign and Darjeeling tea. What makes first flush tea so turned it into something that is now British. much pricier? Well, a flush refers to the time In all of these clips there was a person who 28 was upset, and the other person would offer them “a nice cuppa tea.” From this I learned that in Britain, tea has the ability to provide warmth and comfort, as well as the ability to welcome people as a gesture of hospitality. Something about the ritual behind boiling the water, steeping the tea leaves, adding the sugar and milk, is calming as well. It also gives you the energy to start and continue your day. As one man says in the documentary, “One day I tried to go a whole day without a cup of tea, and I was quite shaken. I was quite disturbed.” I may not be able to call myself a tea expert who can drink a cup of tea and tell where the leaves were grown and be able to distinguish one flavor from another, but I can tell you that I am now a proud tea addict, who crave a cup of tea every day (some days I even have four). Aside from that I appreciate the rich history of tea, as well as the ceremony of steeping the tea leaves, adding my sugar, and watching the milk swirl in transforming the cup from a rich brown into a milky beige. Perhaps most importantly however, I now understand how important a role tea plays in British society. 29 Amsterdam: Culture in Canals msterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, is A a city brimming with life, culture, and history. Fantastic museums, idyllic street scenes, and unique shops are only a few of the many elements of the city that contribute to its character and charm. The city is oriented around various canals and arched bridges that weave their way through busy streets. Famous canals include the Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht; these were constructed in the seventeenth century

during the Dutch Golden http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/ Age and remain intact Amsterdam_Javaeiland_Lamonggracht.JPG today. Hundreds of Boats along Lamonggracht Canal historical canal houses line the waterways. is a very well-known War and placed restrictions They are built with landmark located along the on Jewish citizens, limiting red bricks and sport Prinsengracht canal. In the their freedom and mobility. elaborate facades and hopes of avoiding detainment, Although Frank and other entrances. The primary the eponymous young girl members of the Annex were mode of transportation and her family hid from Nazi ultimately arrested and is bicycling; tourists can persecution in the building’s interned at concentration also rent bikes from so-called secret annex from camps, the diary that she stores throughout the 1940 to 1944. German wrote while living there area or take the tram. troops occupied Holland survives. Visitors are now The Anne Frank house during the Second World able to tour the House and 30 travel up flights of stairs to walk through hidden hallways and rooms, experiencing what life might have been like for Frank. Though the rooms were sparsely decorated, I was struck by the sadness that permeated throughout the house; Frank’s spirit was present in every inch of the space I explored. I also took note of the locations that she had described as especially http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/be/Keizers- grachtReguliersgrachtAmsterdam.jpg important to her in her diary; A bridge over Keizersgracht Canal seeing the exhibit made her story seem much more real and vivid. Amsterdam is also composed of a multitude of museums and galleries that contain renowned works of art. The recently refurbished Van Gogh Museum is comprised of an impressive collection of the titular artist’s drawings, still lifes, and landscapes such as The Bedroom (1888) and http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/09/WLANL_-_Minke_Wagenaar_-_Van_Gogh_Museum_Amsterdam_159.jpg Sunflowers (1889). While A gallery in the Van Gogh Museum the Rijksmuseum features classical artwork of painters http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/83/Rijksmuseum_Amsterdam_ca_1895.jpg like Johannes Vermeer and Rembrandt van Rijn, the Stedelijk focuses more intensely on contemporary pieces. Fans of Rembrandt should also be sure to pay a visit to his house and studio, which have been redecorated to fit the style of the period. The attention to detail present throughout his house is striking; an elegant easel lies next to The exterior of the Rijksmuseum, which boasts an excellent collection of a small workplace strewn Dutch paintings 31 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/46/Keukenhof-Szmurlo.jpg/1024px-Keuken- hof-Szmurlo.jpg Tulips in the beautiful Keukenhof Gardens

with brushes and pieces owners themselves; this clientele with delicious of canvas. His front hall is personal touch contributes tea, homemade jams, and adorned from top to bottom to their uniqueness. The organic eggs. More formal with paintings, many of character of stores like dining options include Envy, a which he would often sell to these, both large and small, sophisticated and innovative dealers. I particularly enjoyed reflects the pervasive cultural delicatessen that serves watching a staff member’s importance of style, quality, a multitude of sausages, lengthy demonstration of and elegance. prosciutto, and cheeses. the process involved in Before or after a The tulip fields of Amsterdam making one of Rembrandt’s busy day traversing the are an integral part of Dutch characteristic etchings. hallowed cobblestone culture; located just outside Numerous retail streets of Amsterdam, feel of the city, the fields provide establishments cater free to partake in the city’s a welcome refuge from the to individuals who are spectacular cuisine. Cafes hectic pace of urban life. interested in the design or and restaurants serve an Thousands of flowers bloom fashion sectors. Maison de incredible variety of food in the spring at the Keukenhof Bonneterie, an enormous ranging from croissants Gardens, creating an sun-lit department store and vegetable soups to astonishing display of color constructed during the turn Indian-inspired fare. The and natural beauty. of the century, offers trendy ingredients incorporated Amsterdam is quaint clothing and jewelry. In into these dishes are fresh and picturesque, embedded addition, little boutiques are and wholesome. Gartine, with centuries of history and scattered throughout the city. an intimate breakfast place tradition; from its striking Some of the clothes and other situated along a small canals to spectacular artwork, wares at these shops are one alleyway in the heart of the city is a magnificent place of a kind, made by the shop Amsterdam, provides its to visit and explore! 32 New Orleans Reconstruction and Recovery

he word disaster the next global tragedy, this was not the case. The was redefined on my the waves of volunteers second thing that I realized trip to New Orleans. that had come to the city was that although a lot had T New Orleans is one in droves refocused their been done to help fix the of the most exciting places efforts elsewhere. This led devastated city, there was in the world, full of music, me to believe that many a colossal amount that had festivities, culture, and people, though willing been left unfinished. That’s restaurants that serve food to help, might not know where my group and our so good that you will never that the city still needed six day trip to New Orleans want to leave. This, however, it, simply because of the came in. was not my first impression assumption that since of the city. On my first trip the media wasn’t talking On the first day, my group down to this wonderful city about it, the problem must spent the afternoon that we call New Orleans, I have been solved. Sadly, swapping out inefficient realized that not everybody knows the whole truth about this amazing place. I went to New Orleans on two separate occasions with a group of young, enthusiastic, Jewish teens to learn about the destruction that the city has suffered from Hurricane Katrina and to find out how we could help fix it. The first thing I realized on the first trip down there was that the media has had a profound effect on the city. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6f/LPD18USSNewOrleansPassingNe- Interestingly, almost as soon wOrleans.jpg as the media moved on to A navy vessel floats past the New Orleans skyline 33 incandescent light bulbs for our energy-efficient bulbs. This activity allowed us to enjoy many great moments with the residents of the city. Many had left the city but returned shortly after the hurricane to start up their lives again. They were very excited to learn how to be more environmentally friendly, while at the same time saving money on their electric bills. The second day was spent rebuilding a man’s home that had been utterly devastated by the hurricane. We helped to install a new air system in the bathroom and finished up the flooring. In order to finish the air system, we put in place what everyone has in his or her home, an air duct. This allows for a fan to pull out the bad smells of the bathroom and blow them out of the house. After this was set up, we helped put up plywood on the inside of each wall, the first layer of the inside of the new house. The next morning, December 25, we took a bus over to a church to help repair the community garden that had been wrecked by the hurricane. We planted new trees, weeded the flower patch, turned over the composting pile, and organized the tool shed, which had many tools that had been strewn all over the place by the storm and The devastation four days after Hurricane Katrina made landfall had never actually been cleaned both trips were to New doctor’s office, where up. After we had completed this Orleans, the activities patients and members job, we showered, then went back were sometimes different), could get free medical to the church to help set up for my group went to visit a care. The center also the Christmas party that we were community center that also had trained medical helping out with. We set up games, served as a soup kitchen. assistants who could prizes, snacks, and food tables for This center offered a variety prescribe medications kids and their families to enjoy. of invaluable services. The for people who could On the other trip (although office at this center had a not afford a visit to the 34 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/US_Navy_050902-N-5328N-582_Four_days_after_Hurricane_ Katrina_made_landfall_on_the_Gulf_Coast,_many_parts_of_New_Orleans_remain_flooded.jpg The devastation four days after Hurricane Katrina made landfall doctor. In addition, the most basic identifications This community center was center had showers and necessary for job probably the most important shaving stations that were applications. People at place that my group visited. always open to the public. this center came from a The services that they This type of community variety of backgrounds. offered were absolutely structure enabled many Many of them had simply essential. I had never people who lost everything lost their way in life, while seen a system that was in the hurricane to rebuild others were recently so efficient, effective, and their life, starting with the unemployed after 30 years. crucial anywhere in my life. 35 On other days, we spent time either working, learning, talking to people, or visiting places that were the most heavily destroyed from the hurricane. The greatest example of the devastation in New Orleans that I observed was a visit to the Lower Ninth Ward. In many of the area’s neighborhoods, whole blocks might have only two or three inhabited houses. This meant that http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e2/Damage_to_Lower_Ninth_Ward_af- entire neighborhoods were ter_Hurricane_Katrina.jpg/1280px-Damage_to_Lower_Ninth_Ward_after_Hurricane_Katrina.jpg inhabited by only about A destroyed house in the Lower Ninth Ward 15-20% of their pre-storm population. Many had who lost everything in the moved away, often times hurricane. He left New KATRINAFACTS without returning, leaving Orleans after the hurricane empty houses to be claimed and moved on with his life. by the city. The vacancy is A few years later, when - 80% of New Orleans immediately recognizable his life brought him back was flooded by the hurri- if you were to walk down to the city, he recognized cane any given street. Houses the need for community on the right and left may organization. From then be collapsed, nailed up by on, he committed himself the city, or simply in ruin, to helping his community. overrun with mold and dust. He opened up his “shed,” - The storm had sustained There is simply no way which had originally housed winds of 125 mph upon to describe the absolute 30 beautiful cars, and made landfall destruction of some of a community center. He these houses. One can only collected books, games, imagine what it must be weights and everything like to have all your worldly else one might need to possessions swept away by make a place for the - The estimated loss- the ocean. Entire lives were entire community to enjoy, es from the storm total swept away, like dust under and not just for his own nearly $100 billion a broom. One man, by the personal cars. This idea name of Mack, was one of was wildly successful for these victims. Mack lived in about a month until money the Lower Ninth Ward for problems complicated Source: http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/ex- approximately thirty years. things substantially. For tremeevents/specialreports/Hurricane-Ka- He was a car collector the next few months, he trina.pdf 36 http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2140/2443873373_9749d9a097_o.jpg Top: A graffiti mural in the Lower Ninth Ward Right: A hurricane Evacuation Route sign in New Orleans struggled to stay open forced him to sign a deal and create a place for the with Mountain Dew and Lil’ community. When I went Wayne. They would pay for down for the first time, his his expenses as long as he community center was all let them build a skate park but thriving. While some instead of his community students would come over center. I had never been so every once in a while and shaken about any decision http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ families that knew about in my life. In my opinion, commons/c/cb/Hurricane_Route_sign_Tu- his vision were supportive, Mack had gone against lane_Avenue_floodlines.jpg but the problem was his vision; he had given that disaster recovery is always about money. After up. He wanted to help the never a simple process. spending a week in the city, community and now he had Though the media may and a day or two with Mack given in and allowed money stop covering a disaster, and his community center, to stop him from doing the devastation remains my group and I left. A year what had inspired him to even though the help stops later, the same time, around do in the beginning. In my coming. In the case of New winter break, I went down opinion, he was no longer Orleans, this fact led to again. This time, when we helping the community tough decisions, like Mack’s visited Mack, he gave us in the same way. At the decision to abandon his the same talk about his same time, I recognized idea of a community center. vision and how he wanted that having a skate park All the while, the people to help the community, but was better than having a of New Orleans are forced when we went inside, I was community center that could to carry on to keep their stunned. Everything was not operate due to lack of community alive in spite of different. Over the past funding. the destruction wrought by year, money troubles had This experience taught me Hurricane Katrina. 37 Voyager Horace Mann School 231 West 246th Street Bronx, NY 10471