Budget WorldClass Drives AND THE MIDDLE MEKONG

NA NOI ·æ√à PHRAE L A O S L A O S

101 Mekong River SANG KHOM BAN KHOK 211 PHON PHISAI 2267 N PAK CHOM SI 2 DEN CHAI 2376 211 Õ.ÀπÕߧ“¬ 212 1047 10kms 1268 CHIANG KHAN 2266

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11 2020 2329 NAM PHAT 2108 Historical Park 1146 PEN 1239 BAN PHU 201 2022 Õÿµ√¥‘µ∂å THA LI 2 2195 2249 2021 UTTARADIT 2255 2115 1047 1214 National Park National Park ‡≈¬ 11 1328 NA HAEO 2352 2399 LOEI 2294 Õÿ¥√∏“π’ 2096 1268 PHU RUA 203 2138 1214 THUNG SAEN KHAN 2312 3 2263 1237 2097 2263 2113 2114 NONG HAN 1246 22 ERAWAN 2314 CHATRAKAN 4 2140 210 210 DAN SAI WANG SAPHUNG PHICHAI 1296 Wildlife 2313 2013 Sanctuary ÀπÕß∫—«≈”¿Ÿ 1248 NONG BUA LAMPHU

1143 203 NONG SAENG NAKHON THAI 228 KUMPHAWAPHI 2016 2216 WAT BOT 2331 2013 SI BUN RUANG 11 National LOM KAO Park 12 National 5 12 PHU KRADUNG 2 6 National 2216 Park æ‘…≥ÿ‚≈° Park 2133 WANG THONG 21 LOM SAK National 12 National Park UBOL RATANA KRANUAN 117 National 1295 Park 20 Park KHAO KHO PHU WIANG

21 2038 11 KHON SAN CHUMPHAE 2258 115 12 ¢Õπ·°àπ 111 SAK LEK 201 1 CHIANG YUN 2187 ‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å 2131 PHICHIT 2062

Oliver Hargreave æ‘®‘µ√ PHETCHABUN PHRA YUN

Highlights of the Drive The main route is divided into six whether to begin your drive in Khon sections, each with recommended Kaen, Udon Thani or Phitsanulok, and he Friendship Highway links accommodation. This allows you to then for you to set your pace on an T to , an area which spend a full day en route and reach adventure into this beautiful, less- encompassses the north-eastern pro- comfortable lodging by nighfall in each visited part of the Kingdom. vinces of . The people of this section. region enjoy a distinctive language and For further information, please see culture, which they share with their It remains for you to choose the back page. Happy Trails! cousins across the River Mekong in . Starting from Khon Kaen, a cultural ROADS IN THAILAND centre in the heart of Isan, the drive follows the Friendship Highway north All main and most minor roads are sealed. Signs and reflective markers to the commercial city of Udon Thani warn of hazards on major highways, and sodium lighting illuminates major and then to Nong Khai, a tranquil town intersections. Bilingual (English/Thai) road signs indicate destinations, high- on the banks of the Mekong. way numbers and distances before and after intersections. From Nong Khai the route follows Kilometre stones show highway number and distance along the road on the the Mekong valley upstream, before front face, and distances to destinations in the direction of travel on the side. turning south to the provincial capital The police and military set up road check-points on highways, especially at of Loei and then heading west across night, but there are no security problems. mountain ranges to Phitsanulok. Please remember to drive on the left! Located in the north central plains Emergency Assistance 1-800-BUDGET, Udon Thani Office (0) 4224 6805, of the Chao Phraya basin, Phitsanulok (0) 9841 4753 Phitsanulok Office, (0) 5525 8556, (0) 1820 8644, lies close to the historical origins of Khon Kaen Office (0) 4334 5460, (0) 1925 4228 the Kingdom of Thailand at Sukhothai. From Phitsanulok, a different route east crosses the ranges again back to Online Bookings: Khon Kaen or Udon Thani. Scenic shorter Our fastest way to rent a car www.budget.co.th drives are also possible from Phitsanulok. 1 KHON KAEN SECTION 1 : 165 kms. NONG KHAI

2267 he drive starts in Khon Kaen, a regional centre in Isan KHON KAEN to NONG KHAI PHON PHISAI Õ.‚æπæ‘ —¬ T with a vibrant night life. From Khon Kaen Highway 2 Õ.»√’‡™’¬ß„À¡à races north towards the River Mekhong along a fast divided SI CHIANG MAI Mekong River (spring rolls village) 212 highway that allows an easy journey to the major Udon ÀπÕߧ“¬ NONG KHAI Nong Khai Golf (9 holes) Thani. Side tours along the route lead to King Cobra Village 7 Sala Kaeo Ku Õ. √â“ߧա and Ban Chiang World Heritage. THA BO SANG KHOM Õ.∑à“∫àÕ 50 kms north of Udon Thani lies Nong Khai, a languid 6 Victory Park GC 2329 provincial capital on the banks of the Mekong. Though the 211 Wat Phrathat friendship bridge at Nong Khai is the main entry point for Bang Phuan Õ.‡æÁ≠ PHEN vehicles into Laos, Budget vehicles may not cross at present. 5 Nevertheless, with the border market, the extraordinary sculp- 2022 tures of Sala Kaeo Ku and the variety of restaurants along 2 °‘Ëß Õ.æ‘∫Ÿ≈¬å√—°…å the river, Nong Khai is a pleasant town for a stopover (see 2021 2255 PHIBUNRAK to Phu Phrabat map, section 2). Historical Park Ban Na Kha (silk)

4 Õ.∑ÿàßΩπ South from Khon Kaen THUNG FON 2096 Sights south of Khon Kaen include the silk weaving Õ.°ÿ¥®—∫ Õÿ¥√∏“π’ 2312 Ban Chiang KUT CHAP UDON THANI 3 village of Channabot (KM11 on H229 to Mancha Khiri — 2263 Õ.ÀπÕßÀ“√ World Heritage Site NONG HAN 66kms), the ‘Tortoise Village’ (KM40 on H2062 to Mancha

22 Khiri — 54 kms) and the Khmer ruins at Phimai (H2 and Sri Thani Golf (9 holes) H206 —151kms). Contact the TAT office in Khon Kaen for (West turn from H2 210 at Don Kheng more information about places near Khon Kaen. km109-110 Wat Pa Ban That (0) 1954 3188 2350 1 2313 POINTER ONE Wat Tham Khlong Pen Udon Thani H12 & H2 intersection, Khon Kaen. Turn Õ.ÀπÕß«—«´Õ 2 2239 Budget NONG WUA SO 12 Khon Kaen north for Udon Thani (116 kms). Phimai 2 Airport Kalasin Õ.°ÿ¡¿«“ªï Lom Sak 667m 2023 NONG SAENG KUMPHAWAPHI (151 kms) & (189 Nakhon Õ.ÀπÕß· ß Ratchasima kms) are south. 2025 »√’∏“µÿ KM35 U-turn and east turn onto H2039 to Kranuan for SI THAT Ban Kok Sanga, ‘King Cobra Village’. Drive on H2039 to

2146 KM14 and then take a side road south for 2kms. Villagers 2231 THA KHANTO 2009 will show you cobras, but shows may only be put on for Õ.∑à“§—π‚∑ Õ.‚ππ –Õ“¥ groups. NONG SA-AT Õ.‚ππ —ß 2298 2152 NONG SANG 2 KM26-7 H2109 leads Ubon Rattana Dam (26kms) and Õ.Õÿ∫≈√—µπå H2146 to Nong Bua Lamphu (89 kms) UBOL RATANA Õ.°√–π«π Õ.πÈ”æÕß KRANUAN 2 POINTER TWO NAM PHONG 2039 2 2109 King Cobra Village Kumphawaphi KM81-2 H2023 to Kumphawaphi inter- 2023 2183 sects with H2. Turn right here for alter- native route to Ban Chiang World Heri- Prathat Kham Kaen 2110 Khon Kaen tage (see sidebar) Ban Nong Chum 2268 2152 3 to Chumphae Nong Khai POINTER THREE ¢Õπ·°àπ 2 12 Ban Thum KHON KAEN Fountain circle in Udon Thani. Unless it 209 Õ.‡™’¬ß¬◊π 1 Ban Chiang CHIANG YUN to Kalasin City is rush hour, take H2 through Udon 2131 230 209 Thani. H22 east is the direct route from Õ.æ√–¬◊π 2062 N Khon Kaen Udon Thani to Ban Chiang. PHRA YUN Ban Tha Phra 10kms 208 Õ.‚° ÿ¡æ‘ —¬ 4 POINTER FOUR KOSUM PHISAI

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Ban Phu H2 KM130 H2021 goes to Ban Phu and

Oliver Hargreave to Maha Sarakham 2021 Phu Phrabat Historical Park (56 kms).

130 This site can also be visited from Nong Khai (see sidebar, section 2) 2 www.budget.co.th to Udon Thani 2 KHON KAEN 5 POINTER FIVE 2km. to Udon Thani R N ‰ª Õÿ¥√∏“π’ H2 KM 146/7 junction of H2022 to Khon Kaen (0) 4334 5460 University Mobile (0) 1925 4228 0 500m 2022 Phen and Nong Han districts — Convention Centre alternative rural route to/from 12 R km 6 to Kalasin Lang Sun Rachakan Rd. to Chumphae 209 Ban Chiang A km 4 2131 to Phra Yun 230 Ban Chiang, World Heritage Site.

Thepharak Rd. B Sun Rachakan Rd. Kasikonthungsang Rd. The Lao Phuan village of Ban Chiang is a site of to Nakhon Ratchasima major interest 50 kms east of Udon Thani. A Na- 2 Phimai Na Sun Rachakan Rd.C tional Museum (open daily 09:00-17:00) and an to Airport 12 Maliwan Rd. Chumphae 1 Oliver Hargreave Prachasamoson Rd. excavation site exhibit at Wat Phu Si Nai detail life D in the area 2000-4000 years ago. PLACES M 6 A. Khon Kaen Museum 1 G B. Communications Authority of 209 From Khon Kaen (total 146 kms), you may avoid Thailand (overseas telephone) 5 to Kalasin C. Provincial Hall Udon Thani by taking H2023 (pointer 2) to D. Thai Airways Office ‰ª °“à ‘π∏ÿå 2 Lang Muang Rd. Shopping Mitraphap Rd. Kumphawapi (8kms) and then H2350 to Nong Han E. Oasis Shopping Mall 4 F. Fairy Plaza 7 M (31 kms). This joins H22 at KM34, where the high- Sri Chan Rd. Night Entertainment 3 way bypasses south of Nong Han district town. Turn G. Nate Night Bazar H E H. Times Square 1 right (east) and drive either to KM42 and follow a 8 Tourism Authority of Thailand 2 3 9 Sithakhon Rd. sealed highway NE (Ban Chiang 8 kms), or con- Tel: (0) 4324 4498-9 Long distance (air-con) tinue to KM50 and turn north on H2225 (Ban Chiang bus station Chuancheun Rd. Prachasamran Rd. 10 Post Office 9 6 kms). From Udon Thani follow H22 east to Nong Railway Station 11 M M Fresh Market Han and then as described above. Anamai Rd.

Restaurants F To continue directly to Nong Khai from Ban 1. First Choice 2. Ban Na Mai Chiang via a rural route, return on H22 to Nong 3. The Parrot 4. Bua Luang Han and turn north on H2312. Continue on this 5. Ban Suan 2 4 Darunsamran Rd. 6. Nong Pla Na Muang Rd. road, passing Pen district town and joining H2 at 7. Thang Garden Klang Muang Rd. 7 8 KM146 (Pointer 4). You may also visit the silk 8. Kung Phao 5 6 9. Night Market village of Ban Na Kha using this route by turning 2131 Khon Kaen Hotel $-$$ Phimphasut Rd., ‰ªπ§√√“™ ’¡“ 5 Tel: (0) 4324 4881-5, Fax: (0) 4324 2458 off H2312 (H2022 continues north) onto H2255 at to Nakhon Ratchasima Rosesukhon Hotel $$, Klang Muang Rd. KM29 and heading west to Ban Na Kha (KM134 on Up-Market Hotels 6 Tel: (0) 4323 8576-9, Fax: (0) 4323 9457 1 Charoen Thani Princess $$-$$$, Sri Chan Rd, Tel: (0) 4322 0400-14 City Hotels H2). Fax: (0) 4322 0438 e-mail Bkk Res: (0) 2636 3333 Muang Inn $ Na Muang Rd. Tel: (0) 4324 5870-1 7 Hotel Sofitel Raja Orchid Khon Kaen $$$, Prachasumran Rd. Fax: (0) 4333 4411-2 2 Tel: (0) 4332 2155, Fax: (0) 4332 2150. Bkk Res: (0) 2237 6064. 8 Kaeng Nakhon Hotel $, Drichan Rd. Tel: (0) 4322 4268-71 ‰ª ÀπÕߧ“¬ E-mail to Nong Khai Sawaddee Hotel $, Na Muang Rd. Tel: (0) 4322 1600 Sunshine Fragrant km120 Kosa Hotel, $$-$$$ Sri Chan Rd, Tel: (0) 4332 0320, (0) 4322 5014-8 9 Orchid Farm 3 Fax: (0) 4332 0345 Fax: (0) 4322 5013 Bkk Res: (0) 2258 9425-7 Amarin Plaza Hotel $-$$ Rop Muang Rd. Mid-Range Hotels 10 Tel: (0) 4332 1660-1 4 Chaipat Hotel $$-$$$, off Na Muang Rd, Khon Kaen Ruen Rom $-$$. Ruen Rom Rd. Tel: (0) 4333 0055-64, Fax: (0) 4323 6860 11 Tel: (0) 4322 3522-3 Fax: (0) 4322 0567

to Kut Chap ‰ª Õ.°ÿ¥®—∫ 2263 PLACES City pillar & open ground UDON THANI 2 night entertainment 22 S Shopping & Superstore Tourism Authority of Thailand 210 7 km121 S Tel: (0) 4225 3406-7 210 Airport Big C Railway Station ‰ª ÀπÕß∫—«≈”¿Ÿ ‰ª °≈π§√ ∫â“π‡™’¬ß @ internet Nong Prachak Park to Nong Bua Lamphu to Sakol Nakhon Ban Chiang

Restaurants R 1. Rabiang Phatchani 1 2 2. Mandarin Tel: (0) 4224 6805 3. VT Naem Nuang (Vietnamese) 4. Mae Ya 6 Mobile: (0) 9841 4753 5. Muang Kon Luang Provincial Hall Night Market 6. Night Market ‰ª ¢Õπ·°àπ to Khon Kaen Up-Market Hotels Thesa Rd. Ban Chiang Hotel $$$, Mukmontri Rd, 1 3 Wattana Nuwong Rd. Tel: (0) 4232 7911-29 5 Fax: (0) 4322 3200. Bkk Res: (0) 2231 2669. 3 E-mail: 4 Charoensri Royal Hotel $$$, Prachak Rd. 2 Phan Phrao Rd. Tel: (0) 4234 3555, Fax: (0) 4234 3550-2 Si Suk Rd. Bkk Res: (0) 2319 8947. Mak Khaeng2 Rd. Ton Koon Hotel $$-$$$ Mak Khaeng Rd. 9 8 3 Tel: (0) 4232 6336-45 Fax: (0) 4232 6349-50 Phosi Rd. Clocktower 6 Mid-Range Hotels to H210 & H2263 Si Chom Cheun Rd. Udon Dutsadi Rd. Udon Hotel $-$$ Mak Khaeng Rd. 2 4 Railway Station Tel: (0) 4224 8160 Fax: (0) 4224 2782 @ Fountain Circle S 4 Charoensri Complex Karin Hotel $-$$$ Wattana Nuwong Rd. Prachak Rd. 5 Tel: (0) 4232 0515-22 3 Napalai Hotel $$-$$$ Pracharaksa Rd. 6 Tel: (0) 4234 7444 Fax: (0) 4234 7447 Udon Thani Airport Sleep Inn $$ H210 KM120 N Prince Prachak Statue 7 Tel: & Fax: (0) 4234 6223-4 22 Bkk Res: (0) 2641 4699 (inset) Pu Ya Shrine City Hotels

Chaiporn Hotel. $ Mak Khaeng Rd. liver Hargreave

8 R O Tel: (0) 4222 1913 5 Nittayo Rd. 9 Charoensri Palace Hotel. $-$$ Phosi Rd. Tel: (0) 4222 2601 to Airport

www.budget.co.th 3 NONG KHAI SECTION 2 : 245 kms. LOEI

Mekong N NONG KHAI to LOEI R i v Checkpoint e (km115) r 10kms L A O S

Km84-5 Buoy Guest House R

8 Km82 Siam Bungalow Guest House Ban Hat Pia (rapids) Than Thip Falls SANG KHOM Rim Nam Restaurant Õ. —ߧ¡ Than Thong Falls 211 Wat Phatak Sua Pak Chom Resort 947m PAK CHOM 530m Õ.ª“°™¡ Wat Hin Mak Paeng 211 Õ.»√’‡™’¬ß„À¡à 2376 SI CHIANG MAI Kaeng Kut Ku Rapids Wat Arun Banphot 212 Yung Thong Falls (spring rolls village) Õ.ÀπÕߧ“¬ 9 Chiang Khan Hill Resort Nong Khai 2266 NONG KHAI Golf (9 holes) 7 CHIANG KHAN Wat Si Chomphu Ong Teu Sala Kaeo Ku Õ.‡™’¬ß§“π THA BO 739m ∫â“π°≈“ß„À≠à Õ.∑à“∫àÕ Ban Klang Õ.πÈ”‚ ¡ Ban Klang Yai 6 Ban Klang Ban Sam Liam 2195 NAM SOM 2020 Victory Park GC Wat Phrathat Phu Phrabat Historical Park Bang Phuan 2108 Ban Song Puai Õ.∫â“πº◊Õ 2348 BAN PHU Phra Phuttabat Bua Bok 5

201 2 2249 865m 2021 to Tha Li 2097 Ban Na Kha 2115 SUWAN KHU HA (silk) Wat Tham Phapu Õ. ÿ«√√≥§ŸÀ“ 4 2255 (sealed roads, often broken up, ‡≈¬ 2352 traverse this area. No English signs!) 10 Õ.π“¥â«ß 524m to Phu Rua LOEI NA DUANG 203 2138 Ban Na Dan ∫â“ππ“¥à“π 3 Loei Airport 2263 Õÿ¥√∏“π’ 2097 KUT CHAP 2263 UDON THANI Õ.°ÿ¥®—∫ Tham Erawan (cave) Huai Luang Dam Ban Lao Õ.π“°≈“ß 2314 Sri Thani Golf (9 holes) 210 210 (West turn from H2 2140 NA KLANG 591m Ban Na Luang at Don Kheng Wat Pa Ban That WANG SAPHUNG ERAWAN km109-110 Õ.«—ß –æÿß °‘ËßÕ.‡Õ√“«—≥ (0) 1954 3188 2140 ÀπÕß∫—«≈”¿Ÿ NONG BUA LAMPHU Wat Tham Khlong Pen 2313 Kinnaree Resort

201 2016 2250 667m liver Hargreave Õ.ÀπÕß«—«´Õ O to Phu Kradung NONG WUA SO

fter joining H211 (pointer 6), you follow the Mekong Alternative Route via Phu Phrabat Historical Park A valley upstream through increasingly scenic landscape. (101 kms) An alternative route takes you to Phu Phrabat, returning This route rejoins H211 at Sang Khom. Take H2020 back to the Mekong at Sang Khom for the picturesque sec- (pointer 7) to Ban Phu and then H2348 to the historical tion east to Chiang Khan. park — a visit to this site is recommended (allow 90 min. to walk around the park). From Chiang Khan, the route heads south to Loei, a provincial market centre serving the surrounding uplands. Continue west on H2348 to Ban Sam Liam (KM28) be- fore turning north (right) on H2376 to Sang Khom. Turn 6 POINTER SIX off H2376 at KM15 to visit the Yung Thong Falls (right turn 159 on concrete lane at the sign for Na Yung-Nam Som Forest KM158/9 H211 west to Chiang Khan. 211 Park — 2kms). Chiang Khan Victory Park East to Victory Park Golf Course (7.5 Sri Chiang Mai 158 Golf Course kms. See accommodation for details.) Tha Bo (follow signs) If you do not wish to miss sights on H211 between KM28 & 84, return to H211 on H2266 (which joins H2348 at a T-junction south of KM15 — if taking H2266 north 4 www.budget.co.th turn hard right at confusing sign near KM8). NONG KHAI

Friendship Bridge 1 Km. M e k o n g R i v e r Local 1 7 Immigration 2 5 3 4 Checkpoint Day Market Wat Hai Sok Kaeo Worawut Rd.3 5 6 9 1 Michai Rd. 7 ‰ª Õ.‚æπæ‘ —¬ Prap Ho Monument Praserm to Phon Phisai Wat Si Saket Wat Phochai Prachak Rd. Bus Station 8 212 Phonphisai Rd. 2 Nong Khai @Internet Immigration 4 Checkpoint Up-market Hotels 1 Mekong Royal Nongkhai $$$, 222 Jommani Beach, Nong Khai. Tel: (0) 4242 0024, (0) 4246 5777-8 Nong Khai Station Fax: (0) 4242 1280 Bkk Res: (0) 2272 0087-9 Sala Kaeo Ku Sculpture Park 2 Nong Khai Grand Hotel $$ Phonphisai Rd, Nong Khai Tel: (0) 4242 0033, (0) 4242 0044 Fax: (0) 4241 2026 Bkk Res: (0) 2237 6809-12 Provincial Hall

Oliver Hargreave Mid-Range Hotels 3 Thai Laos Riverside Hotel $$, Kaeo Worawut Rd. Tel: (0) 4246 0263-7, Fax: (0) 4246 0317 4 Tip Hotel $-$$, Mitraphap Rd, Nong Khai Tel&Fax: (0) 4246 4513-22 Restaurants City Hotels/Guest Houses 1. Dang Naem Muang 5 Khong River Hotel$-$$ , Kaeo Worawut Rd, Tel: (0) 4241 1277 2. Ruen Rim Nam 6 Mut Mee Guest House $, Kaeo Worawut Rd. Fax: (0) 4226 0717. e-mail 3. Song Fang Khong Phantawee Hotel $-$$, Hai Sok Rd., Nong Khai Tel: (0) 4241 1568-9 R 4. Chay Khong 7 8 Prajak Bungalows $-$$, Prachak Rd, Tel: (0) 4241 2644, (0) 4242 0510 5. Khrua Sabang Nga Mae Khong Guest House $ Tel: (0) 4246 0689 ‰ª Õÿ¥“√∏“π’ to Udon Thani 2 9

Tha Bo Market 7 POINTER SEVEN H211 KM73 Than Thong Falls. A laterite (dirt) road from the local market just east (150 m) of the falls goes south. 211 KM28/9 H2020 to Ban Phu (30 kms) and 2020 After 1.5kms a dirt road right leads to Wat Phatak Sua (7.4 Ban Phu Phu Phrabat Historical Park (42 kms) — Phu Phrabhat Historical kms from highway —4WD recommended) and a fine view alternative route to pointer 8. Park alternative route over the valley from a bluff. This is a good view for sun- KM54 Wat Aran Banphot — a new chedi on a slope sets if staying in Sang Khom. above the highway 8 KM64 Wat Hin Mak Peng — a temple overlooking a (Buoy Guest House) POINTER EIGHT narrow part of the River Mekong. Polite dress required. Sang Khom High St. KM84/5 Sang Khom (amphoe) Shops H2376 to Ban Sam Liam (alternative 2376 CHIANG KHAN alternative route route to Phu Phrabat Historical M e k o n g R i v e r 1 Park). Chiang Khan GH 2 1 H

3 17 5 Wat Tha Khok District Office 4 21 2 Wat Mahathat OK Guest House H 7 KM183/4 North turn to Kaeng Kut Ku rapids

9 Post Office to Kaeng Kut Ku (5 kms)

3 km86 Wat Si Khun Muang 211 (2.5 kms). The rapids are a popular local tourist 2195 Wat Pa Klang Wat Pa Tai km48 9 spot with up-market dining and accommodation 1 Dragon with the Golden Ball Guest House $ Tel: (0) 4282 1056 available on the river bank at the Chiang Khan 2 Friendship Hotel $ Chai Khong Rd. Tel&Fax: (0) 4282 2052 internet Hill Resort. Restaurants @ 1. Rabiang 3 Ton Khong Guest $, Chai Khong Rd Soi 10. Tel: (0) 4282 1547 2. Mekong 4 Rimkong Pub and Guest House $ Soi 8 Tel: (0) 4282 1125 9 201 500m 5 Souk Somboon Hotel $, Chai Khong Rd, Tel: (0) 4282 1064 POINTER NINE

Oliver Hargreave ‰ª ‡≈¬ to Loei 2195 211 KM187 H211 ends at T junction with

to Chiang Khan 48 H201&H2195 in Chiang Khan. H211 LOEI 201 ‰ª ‡™’¬ß§“π Loei Up-Market Hotels turn south on H201 1 Loei Palace Hotel (opening end 2000) City Hotels H201 KM7/8 West turn on H2115 to Tha Li Restaurants 2 King Hotel $ Chumsai Rd. 1. Khrua Nit (opp. Phu Luang Hotel) Tel: (0) 4281 1701, (0) 4281 1783, and then right at KM2 for Wat Tham Phapu Cave 2. Bua Luang (south on H201 KM204) (0) 4281 1225 Fax: (0) 4281 1235 3. Loei-Danang (Vietnamese) 3 Phu Luang Hotel $$ Charoenrat Rd. temple (3.9 kms from H201). The temple has a Tel: (0) 4281 1532, (0) 4281 1570, Fax: (0) 4281 2558 grotto containing Buddha images. 4 Royal Inn Hotel $ Chumsai Rd Tel: (0) 4281 2563 Fax: (0) 4283 0873 5 Thai Udom Hotel $-$$ Charoenrat Rd Tel: (0) 4281 1763, (0) 4281 1789, Fax: (0) 4283 0187 ACCOMMODATION ‰ª Õ.¿Ÿ‡√◊Õ, ¥à“π´â“¬, À≈ࡇ°à“ 10 to Phu Rua Dan Sai Lom Kao Bus station Rustic guest houses have rooms at Sang Khom 203 Hospital km207 M Market and Pak Chom; for more up-market accommoda- Night entertainment 1 3 Post Office tion go to Chiang Khan or Loei. Ruamchai Rd. M 5 @ internet • Siam Bungalow $, Sang Khom, H211 KM82-3 4@ 3 • Pak Chom Resort $. Pak Chom. H211 KM145- 2 Nok Kaew Rd. 6 Tel: (0) 4288 1033

Charoenrat Rd. • Chiang Khan Hill Resort $ - $$$ , Kaeng Kut Post Office N 1 Khu (off H211 at KM183) Tel: 042 Bkk Res: ‰ª Õ.π“¥âÕß to Na Duang (0) 2580 6201 2138 1 Km. • Victory Park Golf & Country Club (Pointer 6. H2 KM158-9 Turn east on sealed road and

R to Wang Saphung follow signs —7.5 kms). Tel: (0) 4240 7296 2 Phu Kradung Chumpae

Oliver Hargreave Fax: (0) 4240 7299 201 & Airport ‰ª Õ.«—ß –æÿß, ¿Ÿ°√–¥÷ß, ™ÿ¡·æ 5 LOEI SECTION 3 : 81 kms. DAN SAI

THA LI to Pak Huai rom Loei, Highway 203 climbs 2115 LOEI to DAN SAI ∫â“ππ“®“π to a pass at KM30 before L A O S Ban Na Chan F to Ahi slowly descending into an upland ∫â“𪓰¬“ß ∫â“πÀπÕߺ◊Õ Ban Pak Yang valley well-known for its cold Ban Nong Phu 2108 2099 2115 Õ.∑à“≈’È to Loei temperatures and for Phu Rua THA LI ∫â“𪓰À«“¬ Ban Na Kraseng Ban Pak Huai National Park. ∫â“πÕ“Œ’ Ban Pak Yang Ban Ahi 2115 Dan Sai is famous for the 2099 201 to H2399 (5 kms) 2195 Wat Phrathat Satta Phitakon festival held sometime √æ™. THA LI Õ.∑à“≈’È in June according to a schedule ∫â“π¬“ß determined by the officiating sha- Ban Tang 725m 2115 man. Huang Phu Rua Wat Tham Phaphu Nam National Park ∫â“ππ“¢à“ 1365m 10 POINTER TEN Ban Na Kha ‡≈¬ 10 Chiang Khan H201 KM207 ∫â“𪓰À¡—π Waranya LOEI 2294 2399 201 south/KM0 Ban Pak Man 203 2138 4 2 1 23 north — junc- PHU RUA 3 Ban San Tom Phu Rua Loei City Loei Airport Dan Sai 201 tion with H203. Õ.¿Ÿ‡√◊Õ Phu Rua Chalet Phitsanulok Wan Saphung Pha Kradung See ‘Alternative Phu Rua Resort Chumphae 2114 Chateau de Loei Routes South on H201’ sidebar for Phu Kradung 11 Ranger Stn. National Park and for shorter re- Ban Khok Ngam Rang Yen Ban Lao turn routes to Udon Thani and 2013 Ban Na Luang 2113 2140 Pattakan Rim Pa (km12) Khon Kaen. WANG SAPHUNG 210 Wat Phrathat Si Ong Rak Õ.«—ß –æÿß Õ.¥à“π´â“¬ 1307m Ranger Stn. KM49 Phu Rua National Park DAN SAI (7kms). Take the narrow lane 2013 2016 201 2014 1 Phu Rua Mews. $$$ Km.31 Phu Luang Wildlife Ban Phong Ngam north to the most accessible of Tel: (0) 4289 1396-7, Sanctuary the protected plateau wilder- Ban Pong Chi Bkk Res: (0) 2513 7578-9 (no entry) 2 Hill Brook Hut $$$ Km44. 2250 nesses in this region. After en- Tel: (0) 4289 9243 tering the park you can drive to Fax: (0) 4289 9244 1571m 3 Pimporn Resort. $$.Km46. a car-park within a one Tel: (0) 4289 9152, kilometre walk of the summit. 203 Bkk Res: (0) 2281 4359 PHU LUANG Cheun Chiwin Õ.¿ŸÀ≈«ß 4 Saban Nga Resort $ Km52. Ban Tao Tat KM60/1 Chateau de Loei - Tel: (0) 4289 9278-9 Tat Khok Nong Haeo Thailand’s premier winery. You Ban Khok Nong Haeo can visit the vineyard on a lane ∫â“π‚§°ÀπÕß·Àà« Ban Sila 2016 south just east of the restaurant/ 2216 shop complex (9 kms round ∫â“π°°°–∑àÕπ Ban Tat Kloi Ban Kok Kathon trip). The high hill to the south ∫â“πÀ‘π≈“¥ is a macadamia plantation, which Ban Hin Lat along with the Rang Yen Resort ∫â“π«—ß∫“≈ Tham Yai Nam Nao and the Loei Palace Hotel, Ban Wang Ban (cave) 1150m 2005 belongs to the same owner. 2372 Phu Kradung LOM KAO National Park 11 POINTER ELEVEN 2331 Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ 1316m 2011 Nam Nao Dan Sai Phu Rua National Park 2013 KM66. Right Lom Swiss Hill 2216 203 66 turn to follow 203 21 Õ.À≈à¡ —° Õ.πÈ”Àπ“« Lom Kao recommended Nattirat Grand LOM SAK NAM NAO Lom Sak route west on 12 2209 H2013 to Dan Sai (15) kms. See Nam Nao National Park HQ No fuel for 65 kms! N ‘Alternative Routes from H203 21 Ban Ton Khwang South’ for remote rural roads that

2275 offer circular routes back east to

Phetchabun Airport Saithong Falls Oliver Hargreave Khon Kaen or Udon Thani. If R travelling towards Phitsanuloke, 1271m H2331 west over Phu Hin Rong Kla offers a spectacular alterna- tive route (see sidebar, section 4). 6 www.budget.co.th ALTERNATIVE ROUTES SOUTH ON to Loei 201 ‰ª‡≈¬ KM165 A sealed road runs west to Suan Hin Pha Ngam H201 2140 (Rock Garden Cliff), an area of limestone pinnacles, caves to Ban Na Luang to Nong Bua and small waterfalls in uplands (18kms) — a local tourist From pointer 10, H201 south offers Lamphu routes for shorter circular tours back 210 spot. Accommodation available at the Chao Phraya Pha 184 to Udon Thani via Nong Bua Lamphu, WANG SAPHUNG Ngam Resort. $ Tel: (0) 1974 8145 or Khon Kaen via Phu Kradung. N KM136 West turn on old road to Phu Kradung National UDON THANI VIA WANG SAPHUNG to Kok Kathon Park (8kms). This is the best known of the national parks Phu Luang that occupy the plateaus found at the top of mountains (154KMS) section 2 map 201 2016 2250 to Phu Kradung throughout this region. To reach the summit requires a Go south on H201 and turn east at to Phu Luang Chmuphae KM184-5 onto H210 to Nong Bua 5-6 hour hike — overnight park accommodation/camping Lamphu and Udon Thani. Sights on this route include a is a must (300 & 600 Bt. in forestry department guest houses large Buddha image and illuminated cave at Erawan Cave or in individual houses for 8 persons at 800 Bt.). Open 31 (KM31 north turn 2.5 kms) and the pilgrimage site of Wat Oct. through 31 May, entry 07:00-14:00 only. Tham Khlong Pen (KM90 south turn 2 kms). KM112 Phu Phaman National Park — a recently created park. Features are less spectacular than those at Phu KHON KAEN VIA PHU KRADUNG AND CHUMPHAE Kradung, but the park is more accessible to the motorist. (207 KMS) section 6 map Go on H201 south, which joins H12 at KM94 (113 kms). Accommodation is available in Chumphae at the Sri The sights along this route are as follows (see section 6 for Suphan Grand Royal (see section 6). route information east of pointer 18 on H12)

‰ª Õ.π“·Àâ« to Pak Man (27kms) ALTERNATIVE ROUTES FROM H203 SOUTH DAN SAI to Na Haeo (33kms) ‰ª Õ.ª“°À¡—π H203 south passes over pretty highland country before descending into & Ban Muang Phrae (36kms) the Pa Sak Valley to the district towns of Lom Kao (64 kms) and Lom Sak 2140 (77kms). Go 55 kms south of pointer 11 for the start of scenic, less-travelled back-country roads serving distant destinations (distances are indicated from 2114 H203). N Neither fuel nor help may be readily available in the remote rural uplands through which these roads travel, however. Allow at least half a day for these

routes as tortuous bends and broken road surfaces seldom permit speeds Oliver Hargreave Õ.¥à“π´â“¬ above 60kph. See sections 5&6 for accommodation nearer the start of these DAN SAI routes. M Market Nong Tai H2216 VIA NAM NAO TO H12 (102KMS) 12 Turn west from H203 at Ban Khok Krathong, KM118, for an alternative Wat Phrathat Si Song Rak ‰ª ‡≈¬ route in the direction of Khon Kaen that skirts the northern boundary of Nam to Loei 2013 2013 Nao National Park. At KM58 a south turn by a local restaurant leads to a to Nakhon Thai (42 kms) ranger station (2.3kms) and Tham Yai Nam Nao cave. Park rangers can act as ‰ª Õ.π§√‰∑¬ guides beyond the illuminated 400m (deep access is limited during the rainy 2014 ‰ª Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ season). Wat Pa Neramit Wipasana (murals) to Lom Kao (50kms) H2206 TO WANG SAPHUNG AND H201 (92KMS) PHU RUA N.PARK Summit 1365 m Turn west from H203 at Ban Khok Krathong, KM118, and then turn Phaya Cliff Pu Ku Viewpoint onto H2216 betweenKM78/79 for a route passing the southern edge of 2.4 km 1.8 km Sa Sawan liver Hargreave Thung Nong O Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary to Wang Saphung. Waterfalls are located Din Dam Range 1. km Checkpoint & Car Park off the road (4WD only) at KM45 (Tat Khok Nong Haeo Falls) and KM43 Lon Noi Cliff (Cheun Chiwin). side road 700 m Hin Sam- 1.5 km Thung Nong Hin Tao Chan Falls lane H2331 TO NAKHON THAI VIA PHU HIN RONGKLA (92 KMS) Din Dam Range HQ2 600 m Sam Tong Cliff See section 4 800 m Hin Taek Range Suan Hin Pha Lae 400 m 800 m Dong Tam Sam Sao Ae Range ACCOMMODATION Lat Muat Ae 1.8 km • The following resorts are best for all year service (guest-house style 1.8 km Dao Chao Viewpoint accommodation is available in Phu Rua) Visitor Centre & Park HQ Nature Trail • Phu Rua Chalet $$ - $$$ H203 KM44-3 Tel: (0) 4289 9201, (0) 4289 9012 2.5 km Fax: (0) 4289 9200 sealed lane Huai Phai Falls • Phu Rua Resort $$ - $ $$ H203 KM47-6 Tel: (0) 4289 9048 = Hiking trail 4 km Checkpoint • Rai Waranya $$-$$$ H203 KM50-49 2kms on side road up to Phu Rua = Sealed access road National Park. Tel: (0) 4289 9020, (0) 4289 9166 H PHU RUA NATIONAL PARK Rai Waranya Resort to Loei • Rang Yen Resort $$ - $$$ H203 KM60-1 (south turn, follow signs on From Forestry Dept. map in park brochure PHU RUA sealed road 11 kms Tel: (0) 4289 1089, (0) 4289 1389 Fax: (0) 4289 Õ.¿Ÿ‡√◊Õ to Dan Sai 203 1423 Bkk Res: (0) 2318 8895-6 www.budget.co.th 7 DAN SAI SECTION 4 : 142 kms. PHITSANULOK

he recommended DAN SAI to PHITSANULOK 1047 1268 N T route climbs from 10kms Dan Sai over a north- 1163 Sirikhit Dam Ban Huai Mun south ridge before going

∫â“πÀâÕ¬¡ÿàπ R 1146 to Nakhon Thai and be- NAM PHAT 2102m 1045 yond to H12. H12 then 1106 Õ.πÈ”∫“¥ 1239 (Long distances L A O S descends down towards without fuel!) Phitsanulok, passing sev-

1564m 2195 eral points where the Khek ∫â“π√ࡇ°≈â“ ∫â“π∫àÕ‡À¡◊ÕßπâÕ¬ River tumbles over pic- 1047 1214 Ban Rom Klao Ban Bo Muang Noi to Uttaradit Ban Na Kha turesque falls and rapids. Na Haeo 1328 Ban Muang Phrae 2294 Õ.∑Õß· π¢—π National Park Phitsanulok is an im- 11 THUNG SAEN KHAN 1268 NA HAEO Ban Pak Man portant commercial cen- 1214 Õ.π“·Àâ« tre on the Nan River. Visit 1237 2113 2114 Wat Phra Si Rattana Maha- 1246 11 that, Thailand’s second 1249m most revered piligrimage site, and then enjoy Thai Ban Bong Khae Õ.™“µ‘µ√–°“√ CHATRAKAN 1468m 12 Õ.¥à“π´â“¬ food on floating restua- DAN SAI rants on the Nan River. 1296 2014 Ban Na Muang 2013 948m 60 kms to the west of 1248 the city, H12 reaches Sukhothai and a route to 1143 Õ.π§√‰∑¬ 203 both Sukhothai and Sri NAKHON THAI Satchanalai Historical to Sukhothai Historical Park (Budget World 2013 Class Drives Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop) Ban Huai Tin Tang Parks (For more informa- Õ.«—¥‚∫ ∂å Park HQ tion see our Chiang Mai- WAT BOT Wang Nam Yen Resort No fuel 80 kms! 2216 $$$ Km46. (0) 5529 3411-4 2331 Sukhothai Loop World 2013 Flagpole Cliff Hmong village Fax: (0) 5529 3415 Km120 ClassDrive). Bkk Res: (0) 2318 8956 Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ 11 LOM KAO Saphraiwan 1746m 2005 NW OF DAN SAI Ban Sap Phraiwan Grand 13 Ban Doi Nam Phiang Din (Hmong) Steep! 2372 Routes north-west of 12 (km15) Sopha Falls (km70) Ang Sila Garden 12 Kaeng Son Rapids 2011 2011 Dan Sai enter very pic- Lom Swiss Hill æ‘…≥ÿ‚≈° Park HQ Õ.À≈à¡ —° turesque territory, but Saengthawan Sakuno Imperial Phu Kaew LOM SAK PHITSANULOK (km28) Thung Salaeng Luang the mountain roads are Thaya Rainforest Resort National Park 15 Falls slow and there is no ac- Poi Falls (Km60, south Ban Huai Mak on lane 2 kms) 14 117 Flora Park commodation. 1063 16 Ban Thung Samo H1268 from Ban 1295 1003m Muang Phrae (35kms) Chuan Chom Resort 2196 passes Na Haeo National Sri Dit Falls 2325 KHAO KHO Õ.‡¢“§âÕ 1174m Park (55 kms) and Ban Park Ranger station Memorial Õ.‡π‘π¡–ª√“ß 21 Rom Klao (77 kms). The 11 NOEN MAPHRANG Ban Nong Mae Na latter is near the site of a Rim Doi 1114 2258 bloody dispute over log- to Kamphaeng Phet Palace ging concessions and 1350m 111 SAK LEK °‘Ëß Õ. “°‡À≈Á° frontier demarcation 115 ‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å with Laos in 1989. PHETCHABUN PHICHIT Distances from Dan æ‘®‘µ√ Sai on circular routes are as follows: H12 via

21 Chatrakan and Nakhon

2275 Thai (205 kms), Phitsa- nuloke via Chatrakan &

113 Oliver Hargreave Ban Bong Khae (250 kms), to Taphan Hin to In Buri, Bangkok to Taphan Hin to Saraburi, Bangkok Phu Rua via Na Haeo and H2294 (91 kms).

8 www.budget.co.th to Phrom Piram to Sukhothai 1086 ‰ª Õÿµ√¥‘µ∂å to Uttaradit ‰ª ÿ‚¢∑—¬ 12 ‰ª Õ.æ√À¡æ‘√“¡ 11 PHITSANULOK PLACES 12 A. Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat B. Ho Silapa Gallery, Naresuan University (City Campus) C. Sgt Major Tawee Folk Museum (08:30-16:30 closed Mon) ‰ª Õ.À≈à¡ —° Military D. Buddha Casting Factory to Lom Sak TAT, Phraya Surasi Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2743 12 Railway Station PHITSANULOK Bus Station Post Office Singhawat Rd. Phitsanulok Bazaar (Night Entertainment) 12 117 S Superstore Provincial Hall One way all day 12 6 A one-way system applies during rush 5 hour 07:00-09:00 & 15:00-1730 A Wat Chulamani Airport 4 Ekathotsarot Rd. 12 3 3 to Bang Rakam . 1 d

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h 4 Phra Ong Dam Rd.

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117 n ‰ª π§√ «√√§å ‰ª Õ.∫“ß°√–∑ÿà¡ 3km a

to to Bang Krathum W Bic C S 1 11 Naresuan Rd. Hotel Up-Market 7 10 1 Amarin Lagoon Resort $$-$$$, Praongkhao Rd. Tel: (0) 5522 0999 Fax: (0) 5522 0944 Bkk Res: (0) 2668 4277 2 Pailyn Hotel $$-$$$ Borom Trailokanat Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2411-5, (0) 5522 5228-35 Fax: (0) 5525 8185. Bkk Res: (0) 2215 7110-2 9 3 Topland Hotel $$$, Ekathotsarot Rd. Tel: (0) 5524 7800 Fax: (0) 5524 7815 Bkk Res: (0) 2215 6108 2 Mid-Range 4 Golden Grand Hotel $$, Thamma Bucha Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 0234-7 Fax: (0) 5521 0887 B 5 La Paloma Hotel $$, Si Tham Traipidok Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 7934-6, Fax: (0) 5521 7935 Bkk Res: (0) 2251 1674 6 Nanchao Hotel $$, Borom Trailokanat Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2510-4, (0) 5524 4702-5 Fax: (0) 5524 4794 6 N 7 Phitsanuloke Thani Hotel $$, Sanambin Rd Tel: (0) 5521 1065-69, Fax: (0) 5521 1071 Bkk Res: (0) 2318 9101-3 Borom Trailokanat Rd. 5 8 Rajapruk $$-$$$, Phra Ong Dam Rd, Tel: (0) 5521 2727-30, Fax: (0) 5525 1395, Bkk Res: (0) 2229 4496 C 500m 9 Thep Nakorn Hotel $$, Si Tham Traipidok Rd Tel: (0) 5524 4070-2, Fax: (0) 5525 1897 D

Si Tham Trai Pidok Rd. 7 City Hotels 13 Sanam Bin Rd. 10 Amarin Nakorn Hotel, Chaophraya Rd, Tel: (0) 5521 9069-78, Fax: (0) 5521 9500 R 11 U-Thong Hotel $, Phra Ong Dam Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 0424-7 Fax: (0) 5521 1003 12 Wang Kaew $, Theparak Rd, Tel: (0) 5524 5581-8, Fax: (0) 5524 5589 13 Youth Hostelling International $, Sanam Bin Rd, Tel: (0) 5524 2060

Restaurants 1. Khun Pu S Makro R 2. Ban Ton Mai Airport 3. Phae Fa Thai 4. Song Khwae Budget Rent a Car Office 5. Phae Nam Thong Tel: (0) 5525 8566 6. Riverside Mobile: (0) 1820 8644 7. Food night market Wat Chulamani Oliver Hargreave

12 POINTER TWELVE ALTERNATIVE ROUTE H2331 OVER (0) 1226 0726).

2113 PHU HIN RONG KLA (65 KMS BETWEEN Na Haeo 2013 Between KM25 and 30 signposts indi- Phu Rua CONNECTING ROADS). Nakhon Thai cate side trips to sights associated with the Phitsanulok From Dan Sai, the route over Phu Hin 2013 Communist Party of Thailand (CPT). To 2014 Rong Kla may be driven east to west by continue over the mountain turn right at T Lom Kao heading south on H203 and turning right junction after KM31, or go straight to visit H2013 junction with H2113 to Ban Wang Ban just after KM120 (no the Hmong village of Rong Kla. and H204 in Dan Sai English sign!). Or you may drive it from west to east as described here, perhaps on Little can be seen from the tree-lined 13 POINTER THIRTEEN an eastbound journey from Phitsanulok road as it winds over the summit — a 3.5ks Dan Sai (section 5). However, if it is rainy and the trail leads off to Man Daeng Falls at KM28 Nakhon Thai Alternative route Phu Hin Rongkla upper half of the mountain is shrouded in (distances are counted from junction with 2113 Khao Kho cloud, avoid this route (dangerous when H2372 on this part of the highway) —until 68 Lom Sak Khon Kaen 12 wet ). Allow a full day, especially if plan- the descent begins near the park check- Phitsanulok ning to walk to falls (Entry 05:00-20:00 point at KM17. Hmong hill tribe villages No fuel on this route!). are located on these upper eastern slopes. H2013 joins H12 at KM68. An The view is formidable, but be extremely east turn takes you to upland H2331 to Phu Hin Rong Kla starts from careful on the very steep switchbacks and resorts around Khao Kho. Go near KM5 on a spur of H2013, which by- broken up road surface between KM17&6! west (right turn) for passes east of Nakhon Thai. There are fine Phitsanulok views west as the road climbs to the H2331 joins H2372 which runs north via National Park Visitor Centre (Park accom- Ban Wang Ban to H203 KM120-1, or south modation suitable for family/group 500- to H12 KM126-7. See Section 5 for accom- 1200 bt. Local reservations (0) 5523 3527, modation.

www.budget.co.th 9 PHITSANULOK SECTION 5 : 128 kms. LOM SAK

rom Phitsanulok H12 climbs along the Khek Valley to KHAO KHO AREA Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ F the Khao Lang Non Son Range, an area that was a once Ban Doi Nam Phiang Din (Hmong) 2372 LOM KAO Ang Sila Garden a communist stronghold. Alternative routes north (H2331 203

liver Hargreave Phu Hin Rongkla— see section 4 ) and south (H2196 to to Phitsanulok (section 4 map) O

Khao Kho & Phetchabun — Pointer 14) explore this terrain. 1 Park HQ Ban Huai Mak Nattirat Grand Lom Sak is a substantial district centre rivalling the pro- Imperial Phu Kaew 15 21 LOM SAKÕ.À≈à¡ —° vincial capital of Phetchabun. (NB. Statistically H12 is one Ban Camp Son Thung 14 2 of the most dangerous roads in Thailand!). Salaeng 3 Luang Khao Kho Flora Park National 16 Dan Sai Park Nakhon Thai 13 POINTER THIRTEEN Ban Thung Samo Alternative route Phu Hin Rongkla 4 Airport 5 2113 2275 Khao Kho H12 KM68 H2013 north to Nakhon Thai 6 68 Lom Sak 2196 Lom Swiss Hill Resort. $$$ 1 Tel: (0) 1227 4078 12 Khon Kaen — alternative route for Lom Sak via Sri Dit Falls Stupa 2325 Than Thip Falls Mountain Park Swiss Hill. Phitsanulok H2331 for Phu Hin Rongkla (108kms to Õ.‡¢“§âÕ 2 $$$. Tel: (0) 5675 0445-7 Khao Kho Memorial KHAO KHO H12 at KM126 — see section 4) 2323 Piamsuk Swiss Hill Park Weapons museum 3 $$-$$$. Tel: (0) 1826 8897 Ranger Stn. International Library 21 Chuan Chom Resort, 2196 4 $$-$$$. Tel: (0) 5670 2255 KM70-1 Kaeng Sopha falls (the Thung Salaeng Luang Ban Nong Mae Na Ruan Deum Khao Kho Resort National Park HQ and visitor centre is at KM78-9). Thung Khao Kho Open Zoo 7 5 $$$. Tel: (0) 1886 2956. Palace 2258 Salaeng Luang meadows themselves are accessible from a 6 Boonprakong $$ park sub-station near Nong Mae Na (H2258 KM38-9 north Tel: (0) 5670 9081 7 Ban Rim Doi. $$ turn 1.5kms) 203 to Lom Kao Tel: (0) 5656 0183 ‰ª Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ ‰ª Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ to Lom Kao N Frontage Rd. Lom Sak 14 POINTER FOURTEEN 2326 10kms Phitsa 12 nulok Frontage Rd. H12 KM100 H2196 alternative route to 2 011 ‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å 2196 PHETCHABUN R Khao Kho Khao Kho & Phetchabun (68 kms).

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA KHAO KHO Lomsak Nattirat Grand Hotel $$ H2196 traverses a highland plateau famous for battles (0) 5674 5022-8 H 15 POINTER FIFTEEN between Thai government forces and the CPT. Sights in- Fax: (0) 5674 5029 N Alternative route clude a narrow road (H2323 one-way south to north only) Phu Hin that climbs to a rudimentary weapons museum (ex fire- Rong Kla 2372 Lom Sak base) and to a war memorial from where there is a 270˚ Õ.À≈à¡ —° 12 LOM SAK view. Other places to visit are the Royal Palace (grounds only), Khao Kho Open Zoo & Sri Dit Falls. Phetchabun is 2008 a small provincial capital with a pleasing older quarter. 21 to Phetchabun H12 KM126 junction with ‰ª ‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å H2372 to Ban Wang Ban Oliver Hargreave and alternative route H2331 PHETCHABUN 21 PLACES 1 Post Office over Phu Hin Rongkla CAT (telephone) Restaurants ‰ª Õ.À≈à¡ —° to Lom Sak Bus Station 1. Mu Jum S Topland (Dept Store) 2. Bua Sung Thong 2326 M Market 16 POINTER SIXTEEN Lom Sak H12 KM128 intersects with H21 Lom 21 Phitsanulok Sak bypass (no lights!)and at KM130 12 ‰ª ªÉ“·¥ß 3 Khon Kaen with H21 to Phetchabun(37kms) & to Pa Daeng Dam 2 S Oliver Hargreave Phetchabun Lom Sak (5 kms) 2006 2 Old quarter N ACCOMMODATION Phetcharoen Rd. 1km M • Rainforest Resort $$$. H12 KM44 Tel: (0) 5529 3085-6

R Fax: (0) 5529 3086. e-mail

10 ‡≈¬ LOM SAK to KHON KAEN LOEI 2352 2399 203 Õ.°ÿ¥®—∫ 2294 2138 NA KLANG Ban Na Dan Õÿ¥√∏“π’ NA HAEO PHU RUA Õ.π“¥«ß KUT CHAP 3 2312 Õ.π“·Àâ« Ban San Tom 2263 UDON THANI Õ.ÀπÕßÀ“√ Õ.¿Ÿ‡√◊Õ Loei Airport 2097 2263 NONG HAN 2113 2114 Tham Erawan (cave) 11 °‘ËßÕ.‡Õ√“«—≥ Huai Luang Dam 22 Õ.π“°≈“ß 2314 Ban Khok Ngam ERAWAN NA KLANG 210 2140 210 12 WANG SAPHUNG Wat Pa Ban That 2350 DAN SAI Õ.«—ß –æÿß 2140 Phu Luang 2313 Õ.¥à“π´â“¬ 2014 Wildlife ÀπÕß∫—«≈”¿Ÿ 2013 Ban Pong Chi Wat Tham Khlong Pen Sanctuary 2016 2250 NONG BUA LAMPHU 2 1571m °‘ËßÕ.ÀπÕßÀ‘π 2140 NONG WUA SO 2023 Õ.°ÿ¡¿«“ªï 203 Ban Tao Tat Õ.¿ŸÀ≈«ß NONG HIN Õ.ÀπÕß«—«´Õ NONG SAENG PHU LUANG Õ.ÀπÕß· ß KUMPHAWAPHI Ban Khok Nong Haeo 228 2025 2141 Ban Huai Peng Ban Kok Kathon Ban Sila 2016 Suan Hin Pha Ngam 2216 2146 2331 Ban Tat Kloi (no English signs!) SI BUN RUANG Õ.»√’∫ÿ≠‡√◊Õß Ban Wang Ban Tham Yai Nam Nao Park HQ 2005 Phu Kradung Õ.‚ππ –Õ“¥ Õ.À≈ࡇ°à“ 1150m 2372 LOM KAO Nam Nao National Park Õ.‚ππ —ß NONG SA-AT 2011 National Õ.¿Ÿ°√–¥÷ß NONG SANG Õ.Õÿ∫≈√—µπå 2 2216 PHU KRADUNG Imperial 15 Park Õ.πÈ”Àπ“« Õ.»√’™¡¿Ÿ 2133 UBOL RATANA Phu Kaew 21 Õ.À≈à¡ —° NAM NAO SI CHOMPHU Park HQ Õ.°√–π«π LOM SAK 12 Phu Phaman Õ.πÈ”æÕß Ban Camp Son Park HQ Phu Wiang KRANUAN National Park 228 National Park NAM PHONG 2109 2039 16 Õ.¿Ÿæ–·¡π 201 (Phetchabun Airport) Õ.¿Ÿ‡«’¬ß King Cobra Village Ban Thung Samo Saithong Falls PHU PHAMAN Park HQ PHU WIANG 18 1271m 17 Si Suphan Grand 21 19 2038 KHON SAN Õ.ÀπÕ߇√◊Õ ¢Õπ·°àπ Prathat Kham Kaen Rim Doi Chulaphon Dam Õ.§≈Õß “π Phu Wiang KHON KAEN Ban Nong Chum 2258 N CHUMPHAE Reclining Buddha NONG RUA Ban Thum 10kms Õ.®”ªï 201 12 2187 1 209 2055 2131 ‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å R Õ.¿Ÿ‡¢’¬« 230 PHETCHABUN PHU KHIEO 2062

liver Hargreave

O Õ.æ√–¬◊π to Chaiyaphum PHRA YUN to Nakhon Ratchasima

12 to Khon Kaen follows a pretty route over a watershed NONG BUA LAMPHU Nong Bua Lamphu to Wang Saphung & Loei H straddled by the Nam Nao National Park. Beyond ‰ª Õ.«—ß –æÿß, ‡≈¬ Udon Thani 228 210 Pointer 18, however, the single road highway becomes in- Kinnaree Resort $ H 83 Khon Kaen Provincial Hall Loei 12 Lom Sak creasingly busy towards Chumphae (114kms) and Khon Kaen. 210 to Udon Thani CHUMPHAE For alternative routes to Udon Thani go on H2216 via ‰ª Õÿ¥√∏“π’ 201 Chaiyaphum Wang Saphung (250 kms — see section 3) or via Nong Bua town centre Lamphu on H228 from Chumphae (249 kms). 19 POINTER NINETEEN H12 KM82-3 H228 goes north NAM NAO NATIONAL PARK to Nong Bua Lamphu & Udon KM30 Entry checkpoint Thani (133kms) KM39 Pha Hong Viewpoint (300-500m) & Cave; KM45 viewpoint (100m), ‰ª Õ.»√’∫ÿ≠‡√◊Õß, ™ÿ¡·æ H12 KM77 North turn to KM49 Suan Son Dang Bak Viewpoint (4kms nature trail) Si Bun Ruang & Chumphae 1km 2146 Phu Wiang Reclining Buddha KM50 Park HQ (1.5kms), Visitor Centre & circular nature 228 to Nong Sang ‰ª Õ.‚ππ —ß (3kms) trails (for direct booking of park accommodation call (0) 5672 9002) H12 KM48 H2038 to Phu Wiang National Park (38 kms). KM67 Haew Sai & Saithong Falls (700m) A circular walk of approx. 5.5 kms begins at the visitor KM73 exit park at checkpoint. centre and passes 4 of 9 dinosaur excavation sites.

17 Nam Nao POINTER SEVENTEEN

2113 H12 KM73 H2216 north to Nam Nao— ACCOMMODATION 12 alternative route to/from H203 and to 73 • Lomsak Nattirat Grand Hotel 000 Lom Sak. Tel: (0) 5674 Tham Yai Nam Nao (see section 3) 5022-8 Fax: (0) 5674 5029 • Sri Suphan Grand Royal $ - $$$ . Chumphae. H228 (to Loei Phu Kradung 18 POINTER EIGHTEEN 95 Nong Bua Lamphu) KM86. 2 kms from intersection with 2113 H12 Tel: (0) 4338 1031-3 94 H12 KM102 (west of intersection) H201 Lom Sak 12 north to Phu Kradung and Loei (see Phitsanulok 102 Chumphae www.budget.co.th Khon Kaen section 2) 11 INSTRUCTIONS

Go this way Highway Number umbered pointers listed in sequence in the direction of travel show im- 4 portant road junctions along the recommended route (reverse these if Pointer number N and direction 3 of travel travelling in the opposite direction). These are illustrated as follows.

Kilometre references are noted in ACCOMMODATION NATIONAL PARKS two ways: There are many upland resorts which Visitor centres at park HQs should H12 KM13 = Highway 12 kilometre usually offer rooms with fan/air-con- have brochures with maps detailing stone 13 is close to the point of ditioning, fridge, TV and hot shower sights, though English language ver- focus in small chalets near a central restau- sions may not always be available. H12 KM98-9 = The point of focus lies rant. Those listed in the accommoda- There are board maps and walking between kilometre stones 98&99. tion sidebars in this guide offer year- trails are normally well-marked. Kilometre stones are usually found round service even during the green Park accommodation can be at 1 or 2 km intervals on most num- season (June-November) spartan, and is not set up for walk-in bered highways. Though names are In the high season — November trade unless you bring your own tent written in Thai, the highway number through April — advance booking is and food. Prior reservation from the (top front face of stone) confirms highly recommended, if not a must. Forestry Department in Bangkok is your route in the absence of English Advance booking is also advisable for essential in the season. Tel: (0) 2579 7223, (0) 2579 5734, (0) 2561 4292-4 signs. the best city accommodation during peak periods. ext. 724&725. Background shading indicates Credit cards are usually only ac- From August 2000 all foreigners are points of interest/ side trip/ alterna- cepted by larger resort/hotels, so travel to be charged 200 Bt./head entrance tive road along or off the recom- with enough cash baht to see you to fee, but it remains to be seen how mended route. the next ATM (at banks in main dis- rigorously this charge will be applied. ★ trict towns — amphoe ). The best ho- Hitherto charges were 40-50 Bt./vehicle Stars by highways indicates tel rooms in provincial cities usually and 20 Bt./head, as it is for Thai frequent rough patches where the cost 1000-1500 baht ( $$$), depend- citizens. sealed surface has buckled/potholed ing on season. and broken up. This is common in Isan. 1000 Baht up Be ready to slow right down frequently, 500-999 Baht avoid driving faster than 60 kph! less than 500 Baht 4 WD Only! If you are driving a vehicle that does not have four wheel drive, please do not take this road. When on a dirt road, please drive À¬ÿ¥ slowly to avoid mechanical problems and to keep the dust down when pass- À¬ÿ¥ µ√«® ing people and communities.

Remember to always take drinking STOP NO PASSING STOP (POLICE) CHECK water - allow for emergencies. Make sure you have enough fuel before en- tering remote roads through mountain- ous areas. Help us get it right! If you have sug- gestions or wish to point out errors in this guide, please advise our staff. SLIPPERY ROAD STEEP HILL FALLING ROCKS (LAND SLIDE)

INFORMATION ithin Design (053) 272221-2

greave () This guide is designed to comple- For reservations, please contact your ment regular guide-books. The offices travel consultant or call Budget: of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) at Udon Thani, Phitsanulok and In the U.K.: 0541 565-656

Khon Kaen also provide very useful In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700 , Co Ltd. Graphics by W information and brochures. TAT office In Germany: 01805 244-388 locations are on the city maps. In Australia: 1-300 362-848 In Singapore: 532-4442 In Thailand: 1-800-BUDGET 12

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