A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY

By

JANE KEALHOFER SIMONS

Revised and Edited By

THE AUTHOR

and

MARGARET BABCOCK MERIWETHER

Published by COLUMBIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE as a continuation of The Historical Marker-Guide Book Program of

THE COLUMBIA SESQUICENTENNIAL COMMISSION OF 1936

THE R. L. BRYAN COMPANY, PRINTERS

COLUMBIA, S. C. 1945 Copyrighted I 939

by

The Columbia Sesquicentennial Commission

Copyrighted 1943, 1945 by Columbia Chamber of Commerce

Third Edition

CAROLINA ENGRAVING COMPANY, ENGRAVERS COLUMBIA, S. C. Table of Contents

PAGE Illustrations and Maps ...... _ . . . . 6 Foreword ...... 7 Acknowledgment ...... 8 The Story of Columbia ...... 11 The State House and Grounds ...... 15 .t\. Wal king Tour ...... 2 3 Fifteen Miles of Columbia in an Hoar-A Scenic and Historic Route 3 0 Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 1 ...... 64

Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 2 . ~ ...... 68 Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 3 ...... 71 Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 4 ...... 7 4 Lake Murray Loop •...... 7 7 Across the Congaree ...... 82 Historical Markers in Lower Richland County ...... 85 Numerical Index to Historical Markers ...... 88 Alphabetical Index to Historical Markers ...... 89 Index to Other Inscriptions Quoted ...... 90

Illustrations and Maps

PAGE

The City Flag of Columbia 9 The State House Dome ...... •...•...... 10 Palmetto Monument ...... 19 Town Theatre ...... 23 Map of University of South Carolina Campus ...... 24 Old Faculty Residence, University of South Carolina ...... 27 Trinity Episcopal Church ...... 31 World War Memorial ...... · ...... 32 The South Caroliniana Library, University of South Carolina ...... 33 Central Building of Former Columbia Theological Seminary ...... 45 Mills Building, South Carolina State Hospital ...... ·...... 48 Governor's Mansion ...... 50 City Hall and United States Court House ...... 52 DeBruhl-Marshall House ...... 53 First Baptist Church ...... 55 First Presbyterian Church ...... 58 Curb Market, 193 9 ...... 61 Doorway, St. Peter's Church ...... 62 Ruins of Millwood ...... 69 V ellow Jessamine, State Flower ...... 72 Columbia College ...... 74 Lutheran Theological Southern Seminary ...... 75 South Carolina Pines 77 Cayce House, about 1925 ...... 8 2 Highway and Historical Marker ...... 87 Map of Columbia ...... Inside Back Cover Map of Richland County ...... Inside Back Cover

Foreword

THE first edition of A Guide to Columbia, South Carolina's Capital City, was published in 193 9 as a part of the Historical Marker-Guide Book Pro­ gram of the Columbia Sesquicentennial Commission of 1936. The primary purpose of the book was to record the marker inscriptions and give a fuller commentary on Columbia and Richland County, thus putting their history in short, accessible form. As an aid to tourists the markers are numbered in the lower right corner and two indices of them, numerical and alphabetical, are included in this guide book. A system of code letters is provided for highways, towns, and state institutions. On the highways a single letter in­ dicates a main route; two letters indicate branch roads. Markers within the city, but not on highway routes, are numbered without a code letter. The key to the code letters is as follows: I - State Institutions. Q-Towns. S- U. S. Route 1. SL - S. C. Route 12, branch of U. S. Route 1. U- S. C. Route 48. W- U. S. Route 76. Another purpose of this book is to provide systematic tours in order that a maximum number of interesting places in and around South Carolina's capital city may be seen in a minimum amount of time. The routes have been care­ £ully planned. The mileage and touring time for each is specified to assist in working out schedules for sightseeing. It is regretted that limited space made it in1possible to include all points of interest. The Historical Marker-Guide Book Program-selection of sites marked, writing of inscriptions for the markers, writing and editing of the first edition of the guide book-was carried out by the fallowing committee elected for that purpose by the Columbia Sesquicentennial Commission:

MRS. ARTHUR ST. JULIAN SIMONS, Chairman CAPT. J. M. BATEMAN MRS. R. L. MERIWETHER DR. E. L. GREEN MRS. w. BEDFORD MOORE, JR. DR. NEILL W. MACAULAY l'vlR. EUGENE SALMON MRS. R.H. WELCH Advisory members representing the Columbia Sesquicentennial Commission:

MRS. JULIAN HENNIG MR. J. MACFIE ANDERSON

[7] Acknowledgment

In republishing this book the Columbl1 '. Chamber of Commerce wishes to repeat the acknowledgments appearing in the foreword of the first edition: Mr. A. S. Salley, Secretary; Hi"storical Commission of SoutJi Ca_r<:>~ina. Mr. R. L. Meriwether, Professor of History, University of Southi Carolina. Dr. Reed Smith, Dean of Graduate School, University of Southf .;Carolina. Miss Nora Davis, Director, South Carolina Historical Mai:k~f~; Survey. Dr. L. B. Owens, Mayor of Columbia. Brigadier General James C. Dozier, Adjutant General of S~~th Carolina. Miss Katherine Heyward, Professor of Fine Arts, Un'iversity of South Carolina. Miss May Marshall, Adjunct Professor of Fine Arts, University 'of South Carolina. Miss Sophie Walla~e (Mrs, Edwin B. Clippard), Art Supervisor, Columbia Public Schools. The Columbia Chamber of Commerce. South Carolina State Highway Department. Mr. H. H. Hinnant, Richland County Supervisor. Lieutenant L. J. Ca1:1pbell, Chief of Columbia Traffic Department. Tomlinson Engineering Company. The R. L. Bryan Company. Carolina Engraving Company. The State. The Columbia Record. Dr. Thomas A. Pitts. Mr. John Adger Manning. Mrs. Susan Ames Taylor, The South Carolina National Bank, and The Columbia Hebrew Benevolent Society for supplementing this program by the erection of additional historical markers. The garden clubs of Columbia, especially the Crape-Myrtle Garden Club, which conceived the idea and started the planning of the Scenic Route. 'The Junior League of Columbia, especially for originating the idea of the guide book. The citizens and organizations in front of whose property the markers are erected. The artists who so generously gave permission for the reproduction of their work in this book, many of whom made sketches especially for it: Emmett Conniffe Guy Fleming Lipscomb, Jr. L. A. Emerson Edward Mason H. M. Fair C. Hardy Oliver R. E. Fulmer Catharine Rembert Caroline Guignard Antoinette Rhett Rowena Jones Halsey Elizabeth O'Neill Verner Harry Dodge Jenkins Sophie Wallace Elizabeth White [ 8] The Columbia Chamber of Commerce further acknowledges with appre­ ciation the services of the following in connection with the third edition: Mrs. Arthur St. Julian Simons and Mrs. R. L. Meriwether for revising and editing. Mrs. Robert B. Durham of the Crape-Myrtle Garden Club for assisting in the revision of the Scenic Route. Mrs. Guy Fleming Lipscomb (Adelin S. Lipscomb) for revising the map of the University of South Carolina campus drawn by her son, Guy Fleming Lipscomb, Jr. The R. L. Bryan Company .. Carolina Engraving Company.

THE CITY FLAG OF COLUMBIA Drawn by Kate Manning

Incorporating the City Seal and stalks of corn and cotton on a field of blue, this flag was designed by Kate Manning (Mrs. Ralph Magoffin). In 1912 the City Council adopted the design for the City Flag of Columbia. [9] THE STATE HousE DoME Drawn hy Emmett Conniffe 'The Story of Columbia

C OL UM BIA, South Carolina's Capital City, is one of the f cw state capitals in the country laid out for that purpose. After the Revolutionary War a strong feeling developed throughout the state that the seat of the state government should be changed from Charleston to a more central location. Many sites were discussed and in March, 1786, the General Assembly passed an Act providing for removal of the South Caro­ lina capital from Charleston to a site "near Friday's Ferry on the Congaree River, including the plain of the hill whereon Thomas and James Taylor, Esquires, now reside". One reason for the choice of this location was that it was practically the geographical center of the state; another, that the head of the Congaree River had Jong been recognized as the natural gateway to the Up Country. The Act providing for the creation of South Carolina's capital city author• ized commissioners elected by the General Assembly to purchase a tract of land two miles square, and to lay off this area into lots with convenient streets. A square or squares of eight acres was to be reserved "for the purpose of erect• ing such public buildings as may be necessary". The commissioners were au­ thorized "to contract for the building of a State House .•• and also a con­ venient house for the residence of the Governor or Commander-in-chief for the time being". The purchaser of each lot was required to build thereon within three years from time of purchase. The General Assembly named the new city Columbia. Thus the legislators "By their votes and a few strokes of the pen . . . made a 'city' without citizens". Great credit is due the General Assembly and commissioners for their fore­ sight in providing the wide streets of Columbia, which have added much to its permanent beauty and proved invaluable in the handling of twentieth­ century traffic. Work on the new town progressed rapidly and in December, 1789, the public offices and records were moved from Charleston to the State House erected in Columbia. The General Assembly met in that building for the first time on Monday, January 4, 1790. In 1799 Columbia became the seat of Richland District, later ( 1868) Rich­ land County. December 19, 1805, the town, which had up to that time been governed· by commissioners elected by the General Assembly, was incorporated.

[ 11 ] 12 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Though a large proportion of the activities in Columbia-created for gov­ ernment-centered around the business .of governrl.lent, there was also a steady development of other busines.ses, which contributed materially to the city~s growth and prosperity. Jts tr~de- grew as up-country produce was brought here ·for transpo~tatfo~. to Charle~ton by ·boats which returned from . . ) . ' .. . .' . the seaport with exc~ang~ shipments. Shipping i11creased with canal develop- • • ' . I • • . • . .. • • •• ment~. Small mills soon ·sprah'.g up,: ·beginnin•gs· 'of the manufacturing indus- try which has be~ome increasingly, important. Academies, forerunners and virtually forefather~ ·of the publi~. ~chool system, were provided for before the city was ten year( old. The establis~ment in 1801 of the South Caro­ lina College,. now ·the' U~fry·ersity 9£ South Carolina, and soon afterward of other institutions or' .~igher l~arriing, laid the foundation for a future edu­ cational center, i11:fluei1cing · stro~gly the cultural development of an indus- ; · :,,1: :· , .. , ·,.I· .. trious, patriotic citiie~ry.'' The c~ming of the railroads during the two dec- ades preceding the Confeder~t~ War gave a new importance to the city as a distributing point.

, ' ~ • i 1 o'n December 17, 1860, the Secession Convention was held in the First Bap:tist (~hµrch in Colu~bja and, after a unanimous vote to secede from the Union, was adjoui;ned to Charleston because of reported smallpox here. The Ordinance qf Se~ession was drawn up, adopted, and signed in Charleston three. d~y,~ later. Many of the first generations of Columbia's citizens had takeµ part ,in the·· Revolutionary and succeeding wars. Their descendants lost no time in volunteering for service in the war which fallowed the · e$­ tablishment of the Confederate States of America. Though ·not immediately the scene of conflict, there was a prevailing martial atmosphere here .while, behind the line of battle, Columbia made a necessary and important contri­ bution to the Confederacy through the manufacture of supplies. Its citizens bore their share of the hardships and sacrifices suffered throughout the So~th. Many Confederate agencies and the State Bureau of Conscription were located here. Troops were constantly passing through and from time to time temporarily encamped in the vicinity of Columbia, which because ·of its transportation facilities became a small mobilization center. In the· es­ tablishment of hospitals a further service was rendered the· Confederate Army. In the closing months of the war Columbia was dealt a' seiere blow when most of the houses and public buildings were burned by· Generai ,Sherman's troops. Up to a short time prior to this Columbia had been considered a safe place of refuge, and ·many individuals· and business firms from other parts of this state and Georgia had come here, bringing with them property which was destroyed or stolen during the oc~upation of the city by northern troops. 1. - ., SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 13

On the morning of February 17, 1865, Mayor Goodwyn surrendered the city to the Union general, who promised that there would be no destruction of private property. Eye witnesses recorded, however, that hardly had· the troops entered the city before the plundering and destruction began. All Confederate troops had withdrawn f ram Columbia, leaving only women, children, and old men to witness the horrors of war in the burning and pillaging of their possessions. Only a forgiving people could forget the abuses and bitter experiences of the ensuing day and night. The eleven years of Reconstruction and Carpetbag rule which followed were an even harder experience for the proud people of this community than the years of the Confederate War. Under the leadership of the beloved Wade Hampton, elected governor in the Red Shirt campaign of 1876, this era was ended in 1877, and with characteristic courage and determination Columbians began· a new march of progress for their city. The development of water power and electricity at the close of the century gave impetus to the building of textile mills, and brought in a large new element of population. Early in the Spanish-American War South Carolina's volunteer troops were mobilized at several tent encampments in Columbia; later Camp For­ nance was established as a demobilization center. During the World War I period, with Camp Jackson, one of the nation>s largest cantonments, located on its outskirts, Columbia was an important mili­ tary center. Again, during World War II South Carolina's capital city at­ tained military importance. Camp Jackson, greatly enlarged and in 1940 designated a permanent post of the United States Army and named Fort Jackson, became the largest infan try training post in the country. Visits from the nation's president and other Allied leaders added to its distinction. One of the corps headquarters of the United States Army established first in the city and later at Fort Jackson; the Columbia Army Air Base, a few miles across the Congaree River in Lexington County; the Congaree Army Air Field-which later became a U. S. Marine Corps Auxiliary Air Facility-·· in lower Richland County; and additional Air Force training fields within a radius of fifty miles are further evidence of Columbia's usefulness for military purposes during that period. The city's most rapid growth started about 193 5 and was stimulated in 1940 by the establishment of Fort Jackson. The population of the metro­ politan area, which includes adjoining suburbs, and covers approximately seventy-five square miles, is one hundred and five thousand. 14 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Many permanent Federal agencies as well as offices of state departments and state institutions are located here. A great part of Columbia's develop­ ment, however, has been through its diversified interests as a manufactur­ ing and trading center. Ideal climatic conditions, augmented by an abundant water supply the: year round, good roads and transportation facilities between the East and South, together with an ever.:.present atmosphere of friendli­ ness, cordiality, and traditional southern hospitality offer a combined appeal to visitors and new residents. The city is unusually fortunate in its educa­ tional advantages and cultural opportunities. The recreational facilities for the sportsman in Columbia and its immediate vicinity include golf, tennis, riding, swimming, boating, hunting, and fishing. Camden and Aiken, nearby resorts, provide polo and horse racing during the winter season. During the more than one hundred and fifty years of its existence, Colum­ bia has come through its successes and tragedies with an indomitable spirit and emerged not yet a city of great wealth, but a substantial city of homes, churches, schools, and libraries-a cultural community broad~ned by its politi­ cal, industrial, commercial, and military life. The State House and Grounds

SouTH CAROLINA is among the few states in the Union where the official title of the capitol is "State House". This is South Carolina's third State House. The first was in Charleston, the seat of the state government until 1789 when the second State House, a wooden building, was completed in Columbia. Construction on the present State House was begun in 18 5 5 and continued with various delays and in­ terruptions until 1900. It ranks as one of the n1ost bcautif ul state capitols in the country and in the opinion of many artists and architects would have ranked as one of the most beautiful buildings in the world had the original plan of its architect, John R. Niernsee, been completely followed. The main deviation from his design was the substitution of the dome for his rectangu­ lar tower. The outside of the building bears scars reminiscent of its turbulent his­ tory. Metal stars on the west and south walls mark the places struck by shells fired by Sherman's artillery from across the Congaree, February 16, 1865. The quoin-stones and basement cornice at the southwestern corner were crumbled by the heat from "the adjacent old State House" when it was burned by the same troops after they entered Columbia the following day. The interior of the State House is spacious, well arranged, and hand­ somely finished. The supporting monolithic columns on the ground floor are of granite. The floors and trimmings in the lobbies are of marble. On the ground floor are the offices of the governor and some of the other state officials, the Supreme Court and Supreme Court Library. The east wing of the floor above is the Senate Chamber and the west wing the Hall of the House of Representatives; Opening off the south side of the lobby is the State Library which was established primarily for the General Assembly, but is open to the public. Its marble-trimmed arched doorways and hand-carved doors with stained glass panels are unusual and interesting. Offices of the clerks of the Senate and House of Representatives and com­ mittee rooms are also on this floor. On the third floor are more offices of state departments, and in the north side of the east wing is the Confederate Relic Room and Museum, which contains not only mementos of the war, but also of Reconstruction in South Carolina. It is open to the public week days from 9:00 A. M. to 12:00 M.

[ 15 ] 16 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA and from 3 :00 to 5 :00 P. M. except Saturdays, when it is open only from 9:00 A. M. to 12:00 M. Many memorials have been placed in the State House. On the landing of the west stairway is a handsome bronze tablet erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution of South Carolina to the signers of the Declara­ tionr of Independence from South Carolina. In the same location on the east stairway is a similar tablet erected by the same organization honoring the signers of the Constitution of the United States from this state. Among the memorials in the lobby on the· second floor two honor men of South Carolina who have won the Congressional Medal of Honor. A unique memorial here is the bronze laurel wreath on a marble background, erected by the Columbia Chapter, United Daughters of the Confederacy, honoring a local organization, known as "The Girls of the Sixties". On the . .. .. leaves of the wreath are engraved the names of these loyal women of the Confederacy. Another unusual tablet is the one on which the Ordinance of Secession is inscribed. In the lobby stands Frederick W. Ruckstull's life-size statue of John C. Calhoun, greatest of South Carolina statesmen. The statue is the plaster cast used for the model of the marble figure placed in Statuary Hall in Wash­ ington by the State of South Carolina. Also in the State House lobby is a marble bust of James H. Hammond, governor of South Carolina, 1842-44, United States senator, 18 5 7-60, one of th~ foremost public figures of his day. The walls of the Senate Chamber and House of Representatives are hung with portraits of notable Americans. The use and history of the Sword of State and n1ace, emblems of authority of the Senate and House of Representatives, respectively, are interesting. The Sword of State hangs f ron1 the f rant of the desk of the president of the Senate during daily sessions of the General Assembly and is carried by the Sergeant-at-Arms when the Senate meets with the House in joint session. Every day, upon the opening of the session of the House, the mace is laid on the desk in front of the Speaker, where it remains until recess or adjourn­ ment. When the House officially attends in the Senate Chamber it is always borne by the Sergeant-at-Arms at the head of the procession. The records of "His Majesty's Council for South Carolina" from 1704 to the Revolution show evidence of the use of the Sword of State. The sword which was used in 1776 when John Rutledge was inaugurated presi­ dent of the state was used continuously f ram that date until its mysterious SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 17 disappearance during the early part of the 1941 legislative session. The Charleston Museum then presented to the Senate a cavalry sword made in 1800 and used in the War of 1812 and the Confederate War. This has been used since that time as the official Sword of State. The mace was made in London in 17 56, and is the only pre-Revolu­ tionary mace in the United States still in use. During the Revolution it was carried off by British sympathizers. In 1819 when Langdon Cheves of South Carolina went to Philadelphia as president of the Bank of the United States, he found this mace in a vault in that bank and returned it to its rightful owner, the State of South Carolina. These two emblems of authority are stored for safekeeping when the General Assembly is not in session. Other interesting customs are the raising of the state and United States flags during the day and the burning of lights encircling the dome at night when the legislative bodies are meeting. The upper lights indicate that the Senate, the lower ones that the House of Representatives is in session. The State House grounds-beautifully planted, and adorned with interest­ ing memorials and monuments-provide an inviting park. The monument in the north ·plaza was "ERECTED BY THE WOMEN OF SouTH CAROLINA To SouTH CAROLINA'S DEAD OF THE CoNFEDERATE ARMY". The inscription, written by William Henry Trescot, of Charleston, has become widely famous:

North Side THIS MONUMENT PERPETUATES THE MEMORY, OF THOSE WHO TRUE TO THE INSTINCTS OF THEIR BIRTH, FAITHFUL TO THE TEACHINGS OF THEIR FATHERS, CONSTANT IN THEIR LOVE FOR THE STATE, DIED IN THE PERFORMANCE OF THEIR DUTY: WHO HAVE GLORIFIED A FALLEN CAUSE BY THE SIMPLE MANHOOD OF THEIR LIVES, THE PATIENT ENDURANCE OF SUFFERING, AND THE HEROISM OF DEATH, AND WHO, IN THE DARK HOURS OF IMPRISONMENT, IN THE HOPELESSNESS OF THE HOSPITAL, IN THE SHORT, SHARP AGONY OF THE FIELD, FOUND SUPPORT AND CONSOLATION IN THE BELIEF THAT AT HOME THEY WOULD NOT BE FORGOTTEN. 18 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

South Side LET THE STRANGER, WHO MAY IN FUTURE TIMES READ THIS INSCRIPTION, RECOGNIZE THAT THESE WERE MEN WHOM POWER COULD NOT CORRUPT, WHOM DEATH COULD NOT TERRIFY, WHOM DEFEAT COULD NOT DISHONOR, AND LET THEIR VIRTUES PLEAD FOR JUST JUDGMENT OF THE CAUSE IN WHICH THEY PERISHED. LET THE SOUTH CAROLINIAN OF ANOTHER GENERATION REMEMBER THAT THE STATE TAUGHT THEM HOW TO LIVE AND HOW TO DIE, AND THAT FROM HER BROKEN FORTUNES SHE HAS PRESERVED FOR HER CHILDREN THE PRICELESS TREASURE OF THEIR MEMORIES, TEACHING ALL WHO MAY CLAIM THE SAME BIRTHRIGHT THAT TRUTH, COURAGE AND PATRIOTISM ENDURE FOREVER.

Behind the Confederate Monument, on the State House steps, is a bronze cast of the original marble portrait statue of George Washington made in 1788 for the State of Virginia by the French sculptor, Jean Antoine Houdon. This is one of six bronze copies, the casting of which the Virginia Assembly authorized in 18 5 3. After they were made the molds were de­ stroyed. Date on this statue reveals that it was cast in 18 5 8 by the William J. Hubard Foundry, Richmond, Virginia. During the occupation of Co­ lumbia by Sherman's army this monument was inside the partly constructed State House for safekeeping. Even so, the Union troops dented it and broke the walking cane. The monument facing the north plaza of the State House, east of the Confederate Monument, was erected in 1941 by "THE STATE OF SouTH CAROLINA AND HER CITIZENS TO HONOR THE MEMORY OF HER SONS WHO SERVED IN THE w AR WITH SPAIN' THE PHILIPPINE INSURRECTION AND THE CHINA RELIEF EXPEDITION, 1898-1902". The sculptor for this monument was Theo. A. R. Kitson. Facing the Spanish War Monument, across- the plaza, is the monument erected in 1940 by the "LEGISLATURE, THE DEMOCRATIC PARTY AND PRI­ VATE CITIZENS OF SouTH CAROLINA" honoring Benjamin Ryan Tillman, governor of South Carolina, 1890-94, United States senator, 18 9 5-1918. The statue is the work of Frederick C. Hibbard. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 19

Two granite boulder markers were placed on the State House grounds dur­ ing 193 8. One, near the corner of Gervais and Assembly streets, indicates the Robert E. Lee Memorial Highway, the name given to the road which follows S. C. Routes 2 and 31, and U. S. Route 52 between Greenville and Charleston. With the exception of eleven miles between Cayce and the Lexington and Calhoun County boundary line, this road follows the old State Road from Columbia to Charleston. The other boulder marker is west of the State House and marks the site of the first State House in Colum­ bia, which was designed by James Hoban, later architect of the White House in Washington.

West of the State House steps is the Palmetto Monument, a bronze pal­ metto tree, erected about 18 58, the inscription on which reads: SouTH CARO­ LINA TO HER SONS OF THE PALMETTO REGIMENT WHO FELL IN THE WAR WITH MEx1co, ANNO DOMINI 1847. The fact that South Carolina is known as the Palmetto State, and that its flag which carries a palmetto tree was the first flag of United States troops to float over any part of Mexico City, makes the unusual design for this memorial commemorat­ ing the Palmetto Regiment even more appropriate. A few yards from the Pal­ metto Monument is an elm tree which is a seedling of the one -...:::::::: under which General Washing­ ' •, ton took command of the Amer- ican Army at Cambridge, Mas­ ~;::::Ja==~=I! ~==-= sachusetts. This tree was planted ·tT",~tic;:::r-- in 1932 as part of the 200th an­ niversary celebration of the birth of George Washington. At the time of the planting the South Carolina Daughters of the

American Revolution placed a p ALMETTO MONUMENT marker near the elm recording Drawn hy Edward Mason its history. Near the southwest corner of the grounds, enclosed in an iron fence, is the grave of Captain Swanson Lunsford, an officer in "Light Horse" Harry 20 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Lee's legion in the Revolutionary War. He died of yellow fever in 1799. There are conflicting theories and no records as to why he was buried here.

Not far from this grave is the granite emplacement which held a Spanish cannon captured at Santiago, Cuba, and "Presented by the United States to the City of Columbia". The gun was removed in 1942 and contributed as scrap-iron for use in World War II.

On the grounds east of the State House is a "Gun taken off Battleship Maine sunk in Havana Harbor, Cuba, Feb. 15th, 1898".

Near the east wing of the State House is the monument erected by the "STATE OF SouTH CAROLINA AND ITS CITIZENS" to General Wade Hampton of Confederate War and Reconstruction fame, one of the most distinguished men of his time and one of the most beloved South Carolinians of all time. This equestrian statue is the work of Frederick W. Ruckstull.

At the southeast corner of the State House grounds is the monument erected by "The S. C. Medical Association, its Woman's Auxiliary, the State of South Carolina, and interested friends" honoring a great South Carolinian, Dr. J. Marion ~ims, internationally famous physician and surgeon, who "FOUNDED

THE SCIENCE OF GYNECOLOGY".

Near Sumter Street, east of the Hampton statue is the Revolutionary Mon­ ument, erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution of South Caro­ lina ''To THE MEMORY OF SouTH CAROLIN A's GENERALS SUMTER, MARION, P1cKENs, AND HER PATRIOT SoNs WHO FOUGHT FOR INDEPENDENCE, 177 5- 1783". The bronze Victory and n1edallion portraits of the three generals are the work of Frederick W. Ruckstull.

At the corner of Gervais and Sumter streets is the monument "To the South Carolina Women of the Confederacy" erected by "the men of their state". Frederick W. Ruckstull was also the sculptor for this monument. The inscription was written by Willia1n E. Gonzales, who was for many years editor of The State, Columbia's n1orning newspaper: SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 21

Northwest Side

IN THIS MONUMENT GENERATIONS UNBORN SHALL HEAR THE VOICE OF A GRATEFUL PEOPLE TESTIFYING TO THE SUBLIME DEVOTION OF THE WOMEN OF SOUTH CAROLINA IN THEIR COUNTRY'S NEED. THEIR UNCONQUERABLE SPIRIT STRENGTHENED THE THIN LINES OF GRAY. THEIR TENDER CARE WAS SOLACE TO THE STRICKEN. REVERENCE FOR GOD AND UNFALTERING FAITH IN A RIGHTEOUS CAUSE INSPIRED HEROISM THAT SURVIVED THE IMMOLATION OF SONS AND COURAGE THAT BORE THE AGONY OF SUSPENSE AND THE SHOCK OF DISASTER. THE TRAGEDY OF THE CONFEDERACY MAY BE FORGOTTEN BUT THE FRUITS OF THE NOBLE SERVICE OF THE DAUGHTERS OF THE SOUTH ARE OUR PERPETUAL HERITAGE.

Southeast Side

WHEN REVERSES FOLLOWED VICTORIES WHEN WANT DISPLACED PLENTY WHEN MOURNING FOR THE FLOWER OF SOUTHERN MANHOOD DARKENED COUNTLESS HOMES WHEN GOVERNMENT TOTTERED AND CHAOS THREATENED THE WOMEN WERE STEADFAST AND UNAFRAID. THEY WERE UNCHANGED IN THEIR DEVOTION UNSHAKEN IN THEIR PATRIOTISM UNWEARIED IN MINISTRATIONS UNCOMPLAINING IN SACRIFICES. SPLENDID IN FORTITUDE THEY STROVE WHILE THEY WEPT. IN THE REBUILDING AFTER THE DESOLATION THEIR VIRTUES STOOD AS THE SUPREME CITADEL WITH STRONG TOWERS OF FAITH AND HOPE AROUND w·HICH CIVILIZATION RALLIED AND TRIUMPHED. 22 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Southwest Side

AT CLOUDED DAWN OF PEACE THEY FACED THE FUTURE UNDISMAYED BY PROBLEMS AND FEARLESS OF TRIALS IN LOVING EFFORT TO HEAL THEIR COUNTRY'S WOUNDS AND WITH CONVICTION . THAT FROM THE ASHES OF RUIN WOULD COME RESURRECTION OF TRUTH WITH GLORIOUS VINDICATION. A Walking Tour

COLUMBIA'S historic places are somewhat scattered. However, a walk of a n1ile and a half in the heart of the city includes many points of interest. This stroll starts at the State House and follows the path of the Scenic Route for the first few blocks until it reaches the University. (Refer to pages 3 0-3 3.) After walking across the State House grounds take time to wander through Trinity churchyard and see Trinity Church. The five governors mentioned on the historical marker in front of the churchyard are buried near the large live oak, which is called "The Governors' Oak". Walk around the side of the church past the parish house and out by the gate on Senate Street, turn­ ing right to rejoin the outlined tour at Sumter Street. The next stop will no doubt be to view Gonzales Monument, which stands in the center of Senate Street.

If the Town Theatre is open -and it usually is-a visit to it will be found interesting. The World War Memorial should by all means be visited. A leisurely walk through the University campus will prove worthwhile, though time may not permit a thorough inspection of its forty-six acres between Main, Pickens, Pendleton, and Devine streets. By entering at the first gate on Sumter Street, and leaving at the corner of Bull and Pendleton streets the walk 'fowN THEATRE F,om a watercolor by Harry Dodge Jenkins will include the older oart of ~ the campus and buildings which could not be passed by motor on the Scenic Route. It carries the pedestrian through the quadrangle on which face the libraries, some professors' homes, and other buildings where executive offices, the Chapel, dormitories, and classrooms are located. Note that the academic buildings and dormitories,

[ 23] Drawn hy Guy Fleming Lipscomh, Jr. KEY TO MAP MAP OF u NIVERSITY OF SOUTH CAROLINA CAMPUS Revised hy Lldelin S. Lipscomh I-1. Historical Marker, Uni­ versity of South Caro­ lina. 1. Grave of J. Rion McKissick. 2. South Caroliniana Li­ brary. 3. Elliott and Harper Col­ ,,,Y,"" BflJ.L ST, leges. $ ._ 4. Old Faculty Houses. Of- fices, Classrooms. ,,,,, 5. DeSaussure College. 6. McKissick Library. 7. 0. D. K. Circle. Sundial. .. . . , //1 8. Rutledge College. Chapel. 9. Pinckney and Legare Colleges. 10. Flinn Hall. 11. Maxcy College. 31.& 12. Coker, Thornwell, McBryde Colleges. I 13. Office. Former Observa­ tory. 14. Hamilton College and Naval R.O.T.C. Armory. 15. LeConte College. 16. Sloan College. 17. Davis College. 18. Petigru College, School of Law. 19. Heating Plant. 20. Engineering Testing Laboratory. F~ 21. Warehouse and Shops. 1\::\­ 22. Preston College. '4-' 23. Snowden, Woo d row, • Burney Colleges. 24. Melton Memorial Ob- 28. Sims College. 32. Historical Marker, Pa- 36. Steward's Hall. 38. Drayton Hall. servatory. 29. Wallace Thomson In- rade Ground. 3 7. Wardlaw College, School 39. Former outdoor kitchen 25. Memorial Tree Planting. firmary. 3 3. Gymnasium. 26. Arboretum. 30. Melton Field. 34. N atatorium. of Education. University and slave quarters. 2 7. Wade Hampton College. 31. Davis Field. 35. Field House. High School. 40. Maxcy Monun,ent. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 25 after the English fashion, are called colleges; the dormitory units or suites are known as tenements. On many of the buildings are historical markers erected in 193 8 by the Blue Key Honorary Fraternity. For the most part, the information included here supplements that appearing on those markers. The first building on the left, as you enter the campus from Sumter Street, is the South Caroliniana Library, generally spoken of as the "Old Library". In front of the building is the grave of J. Rion McKissick, president of the University, 1936-44. He was buried on the campus· at the request of the students as an expression of their affection for him. Everyone will probably wish to visit the "Old Library" building. Archi­ tecturally interesting are its arched alcoves, winding stairways, and the bal­ conies above the main reading room. As far as is known, this is the first separate college library building in the United States. It was erected in 1840 and the fireproof wings were added in 1927. For one hundred years it served as the general University library. In the year of its centennial it was designated the South Caroliniana Library to house the University's incompara­ ble collection of South Caroliniana. There are many fine portraits and portrait busts of historic South Caro­ linians here. Among them are four outstanding marble busts: Governor Francis W. Pickens and his wife, Lucy Holcombe Pickens, made while Gov­ ernor Pickens was minister to Russia; William C. Preston, president of the College, 1845-50, and his wife Louisa Penelope Davis Preston, early works of the American sculptor, Hiram Powers. In the museum room is the famous Chippendale chair, called "The Chair of State", used by the provincial gov­ ernors of South Carolina for state occasions. Exhibits in the cabinets are changed frequently to display the manuscripts and printed treasures of the Library. The monument in the center of the campus was erected in 1827 by the Clariosophic Literary Society of the University, in memory of Jonathan Maxcy, first president of the College. It was an early work of the noted architect Robert Mills, a South Carolinian, who designed the Washington Monument in the nation's capital. Immediately east of the South Caroliniana Library are two dormitories, Elliott and Harper colleges, which bear the names of the famous scientist, Stephen Elliott, and of the first matriculate of the South Carolina College, William Harper, a distinguished judge and United States senator. Behind Elliott College is Flinn Hall, named in honor of J. William Flinn, former professor of philosophy at the University. This building was erected in 18 5 8-6 0 on the site now occupied by the World War Memorial, and 26 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA moved to its present location in 1934. Flinn Hall is one of the social centers of the student body, the headquarters of the Y. M. C. A., and meeting place of many other student organizations. East of Harper College is a double residence built in 1813 for two pro­ fessors' families. The last building in this row, DeSaussure College, was erected for a dormi­ tory, but now houses also some offices and classrooms. It was named for Henry William DeSaussure, a distinguished judge and member of the first Board of Trustees of the College. Behind DeSaussure College are three dormitories, Coker, Thornwell, and McBryde colleges. Coker and McBryde colleges were erected in 19 3 7. The former' was named in honor of an alumnus of the University, David R. Coker, outstanding agriculturist. The latter was named for John M. Mc­ Bryde, president of the institution, 1882-90. Thornwell College, named in honor of James H. Thornwell, president of the South Carolina College, 18 5 1-5 5, was erected in 1 912. West of Coker College is Maxcy College, erected in 193.7 and named in honor of Jonathan Maxcy, first president of the College. This building, designed for a combination dormitory and student activities center, also houses some of the executive offices. The small building east of. Mc.Bryde College was built for a·n observatory. It has since been used for various offices. At the head of the quadrangle is the McKissick Library, completed in 1941 and in 1945 named for J. Rion McKissick, president of the University . . from 1936 until his death in 1944. In the lobby hang fine old portraits of United States Presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Madison. Among the treasured books is the original Havel elephant-£olio edition of Audubon's Birds of America, which the State of South Carolina purchased for the Col­ lege, at the time of publication, 1827-38. While the route of this tour leads east past DeSaussure College to Bull Street and turns le£ t fallowing the old brick wall to Pendleton Street, men­ tion of the buildings on the south side of the quadrangle should not be omitted. Across the campus, facing DeSaussure College is Rutledge College, the first building of the College to be completed. It was used at the opening of the institution in 180 5 and _was later named for John Rutledge, Revolu­ tionary governor of South Carolina. The Chapel occupies part of this build­ ing, dormitories and classrooms the remainder. Southeast of Rutledge College, facing east, is Petigru College, the Uni­ versity School of Law. It was erected in 1918 and named for the distin­ guished South Carolina jurist, James L. Petigru, who was an alumnus of the SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 27

College. North of the Law School is 0. D. K. Circle, a circular planting of evergreens surrounding the sundial erected by the 0. D. K. Honorary Fra­ ternity in 192 7. Immediately west of Rutledge College is one of the buildings designed for a double faculty residence. The first house on this site, erected in 1811, was taken down and re-erected in 18 5 3. Behind this building and another former faculty residence on the same side of the campus are the only remain­ ing examples of the outdoor kitchens and slave quarters which originally stood in the back yards of_ al_l_ Jh~ rprof essors' houses. Lega~e College, an academic buildihg, · ~Pinckney College, a ' dormitory/ and another of the old residences for professors complete the quadrangle. Legare College was named for Hugh S. Legare, attorney general of the United States, alumnus of the College. Pinckney College takes its name from the famous Pinckney. statesmen of South Carolina. If these old buildings on the south side of the quadrangle have proved sufficiently attractive OLD FACULTY RESIDENCE, to draw the tourist across the UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH CAROLINA Drawn hy Rowena Jones Halsey campus for a closer inspection, he should be reminded that the outlined route leaves the University through Bull Street, the northeast corner of the old campus. The first two buildings viewed on the right between the McKissick Li­ brary and Pendleton Street are, in order passed, Sloan and LeConte col­ leges, the University's science and engineering laboratories. These colleges were named respectively for Maj or Benjamin Sloan, president of the Uni­ versity, 1902-08, and the internationally famous scientists, Joseph and John LeConte, formerly members of the faculty. On the southwest corner of Pendleton and Pickens streets are the Naval R.O.T.C. Armory and Han1ilton College, erected in 1942. The armory con- 28 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA tains a drill hall and indoor rifle range. Hamilton College, named in honor of Paul Hamilton, comptroller general of South Carolina under Governor John Drayton and later secretary of the Navy, houses classrooms and offices of the University's Naval R.O.T.C. Unit.

The gates at the entrance to the campus on Pendleton Street at Bull Street were erected in 1941. The adjacent section of brick wall is a part of the wall which surrounded the original campus. It was built in 183 5 to replace a wooden fence and also to help maintain discipline. Originally all the gates of the wall could be locked.

The Tour Continues North on Bull Street Three Blocks to Lady Street.

Since 19 3 7 commercial development has changed the original residential character of these blocks.

TURN LEFT AT THE CORNER OF BULL AND LADY STREETS- Proceed West One Block on Lady Street to Marion Street. On the right is the walled churchyard of the First Presbyterian Church. Especially interesting are the graves of the distinguished persons mentioned on the historical marker erected in front of the churchyard on Marion Street. (For inscription on marker refer to page 58.)

TURN RIGHT AT MARION STREET- Proceed North on Marion Street Two Blocks to Hampton Street. The tablet erected in memory of Bishop William Capers and the beautiful stained glass windows are interesting features of Washington Street Metho­ dist Church which is located on the northeast corner of Washington and Marion streets.

If time pern1its, a brief stop at the Farm Credit Administration of Colum­ bia to see the handsome entrance hall will be worthwhile. This building is on the northeast corner of Hampton and Marion streets.

TURN LEFT AT HAMPTON STREET- Proceed West on Hampton Street One Block to Sumter Street. On the left is the historic First Baptist Church which no one interested in history will wish to pass without going in to see where the Secession Con­ vention first met. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 29

TURN LEFT AT SUMTER STREET- Proceed South on Sumter Street One Block to the Richland County Public Library. If a visit is made to the Court House (northwest corner Sumter and Washington streets), one of the first things the stranger will observe is the cache placed in the center of the Sumter Street entrance hall in 1936 as a part of Columbia's Sesquicentennial Celebration. This cache will be opened at the city's bicentennial celebration in 1986 and its contents will convey to those in charge of that celebration intimate details of the life of Columbia when it was one hundred and fifty years old. No more appropriate place could be selected for the end of this tour than the Richland County Public Library, where opportunity is offered to read, relax, and view an interesting exhibition of photographs, or paintings, and when leaving to carry home a favorite book. Fifteen Miles of _Colttmbia In An Hoiir A Scenic and Historic Route

THIS tour which begins and ends at the State House is known as Colum­ bia's SCENIC ROUTE. It is impossible to include in its mileage all in South Carolina's capital city that is interesting or may be pointed to with pride. However, the tour provides a cross section of the scenic and historic places in Columbia, and should leave in the memory of anyone pausing for an hour to follow it a clear idea of the beauty and background of this city, located in the rolling sandhill section of central South Carol_ina. START-CORNER MAIN AND GERVAIS STREETS- (N orth Entrance of State House.) The State House, in the center of the four square miles comprising the original area of Colunibia, is the natural place to begin any tour of this city which was built for the state capital. A separate chapter (refer to page 15) tells of the State House, its grounds and the monuments within their bounds. Therefore, mention is made here only of the five interesting monuments in immediate view of the starting point. The monument directly in front of the State House is in memory of the Con£ ederate dead. of South Carolina. Behind it, at the foot of the steps, stands a bronze figure of George Washing­ ton, a copy of Houdon's statue, the original of which, in marble, is in the Capitol in Richmond, Virginia. The monument viewed on the right, when facing the State House, honors Benjamin Ryan Tillman, who served as governor of this state and as its United States senator. Beyond the Tillman monument, on the same side, nearer the State House can be seen a unique bronze palmetto tree, men1orial to the Palmetto Regiment in the Mexican War. Across the plaza, facing the Tillman monument, is a memorial to South Carolina's Spanish War veterans. Proceed East on Gervais Street One Block to Sumter Street- On the south side of this block are the State House grounds. Near the corner is the monument erected to the memory of the South Carolina women

[ 30] SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 31 of the Confederacy. On the northwest corner of Gervais and Sumter streets is the United States Post Office, which was completed in 1921. TURN RIGHT AT SUMTER STREET- Proceed South on Sumter Street Four Blocks to Green Street. On the east side of the first block passed are TRINITY EPISCOPAL CHURCH and churchyard. The church is a reproduction on a smaller scale of York Minster, England. Inscription on historical marker 1 in front of the churchyard reads: PARISH ORGANIZED 1812. ORIGINAL CHURCH DEDICATED 1814; PRESENT CHURCH 1846. IN THE CHURCHYARD LIE BURIED THE THREE WADE HAMPTONS; THOMAS COOPER, EDUCATOR; HENRY TIMROD, POET; W. C. PRESTON, U. S. SENATOR; FIVE GOVERNORS OF S. C.: THREE MANNINGS, HAMPTON, AND THOMPSON; SOLDIERS OF THE REVOLUTIONARY AND LATER AMERICAN WARS, INCLUDING COLONEL PETER HORRY, GENERALS ELLISON CAPERS, JOHN S. PRESTON, AND STATES RIGHTS GIST. During the Confederate War the lead finials from the roof of the church were removed and used in the manufacture of bullets for the Confederacv. . They were afterward replaced. The transepts were added in 1861-62. Except for this and a few other additions, such as memorial windows, the church stands as it was originally erected. The parish house, south of the church, was built in 1924. On the west side of this block are the State House grounds. The monument directly across the street from the front of Trinity Church is in memory of Generals Sun1ter, Marion, and Pickens and the Sou th Carolina soldiers of the American Revo­ lution. On the southeast corner of the State House grounds, northwest corner of Sumter and TRINITY EPISCOPAL CHURCH Drawn by Elizabeth 0'Neill Verner Senate streets, is a memorial to 32 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Dr. J. Marion Sims, a famous South Carolinian, one of the great physicians and surgeons of the world. The monument on the left, in the center of the parkway on Senate Street, is to N. G. Gonzales, first editor of The State, Columbia's morning newspaper, which he and his brother, Ambro'se E. Gon­ zales, founded in 1891. Occupying the north side of the next square on the right are the John C. Calhoun and Wade Hampton state office buildings. The farmer, named in honor of a noted South Carolina statesman who became vice-president of the United States, was erected in 1926; the latter, erected in 1939, is named for South Carolina's beloved Wade Hampton, III, Confederate general, gov­ ernor of South Carolina, and United States senator. In these two buildings are located the offices of many of the departments of the state government. On the east side of Sumter Street, f ar~her on in -the same block, is the Town Theatre, erected in 1924. This Little Theatre organization is one of the oldest in the country, having been in continuous operation since its founding in 1919. On the corner of the next block, on the left, southeast cor­ ner of Sumter and Pendleton streets, is South ·Carolina's World War Memorial. This building was completed in 193 5. Here are the state archives and the offices of the secretary of the Historical Commission of South C a r o 1 i n a. The Department Headquarters of the American Legion of South Carolina and offices of the department adj u­ tant of the American Legion of this state are also in this build­ WORLD WAR MEMORIAL ing. One of the main f ea tu res of Drawn by H. M. Fair the structure is the beautiful chapel on the second Hoor, a memorial to those South Carolinians who nude the supreme sacrifice in World War I.

The campus of the UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH CAROLINA begins just beyond the World War Memorial at the South Caroliniana Library. The inscription on marker 1-1 records in brief the University's history: SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 33

CHARTERED 1801 AS THE S. C. COLLEGE, OPENED JANUARY 10, 1805. ENTIRE STUDENT BODY VOLUNTEERED FOR CONFEDERATE SERVICE 1861. SOLDIERS' HOSPITAL 1862-65. RECHARTERED AS U. OF S. C. 1865. RADICAL CONTROL 1873-77. CLOSED 1877-80. COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND MECHANIC ARTS 1880- 82. S. C. COLLEGE 1882-87. U. OF S. C. 1887- 90. S. C. COLLEGE 1890-1905. U. OF S. C. 1906. FAITHFUL INDEX TO THE AMBITIONS AND FORTUNES OF THE STATE. While the gates of the U niveraity are closed to motorists, pedestrians arc always welcome on the campus. For those who wish to walk through the cam­ pus, information regardi~g the buildings not passed in this route has been included on pages 2 3-28. The residences on the left and right in the next block of Sumter Street are the homes of University professors. In the center of that block on the right, viewed between professors' houses, is Wardlaw College, named for Patterson Wardlaw, dean emeritus of the School of Educition of the University. Here is conducted the University High School, a demonstration junior and senior high school, operated as a unit of the Columbia public school system in conjunction with the University's School of Education. The auditorium in Wardlaw College is named Drayton Hall, in honor of Governor John Drayton, who recommended to the General Assembly the establishment of the South Carolina College. Through the generous cooperation of the Uni­ versity Drayton Hall is often the scene of n1eetings and cultural gatherings

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THE SOUTH CAROLINIANA LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH CAROLINA Drau,n hy C. Hardy Oliver 34 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

The building at the end of the block, in the middle of Sumter Street, facing Green Street, is the University Gymnasium, built originally for a chapel, but never successfully used for this purpose because of its poor acoustics. West of the gymnasium, on the southwest corner of Green and Sumter streets, is Steward's Hall, dining hall for students.

A block west from this corner, on the southwest corner of Green and­ Main streets, marker 3 entitled "COMMISSIONERS' OAK" has been erected to perpetuate the memory of a traditional landmark:

IN APRIL 1786 ALEXANDER GILLON, HENRY PENDLETON, RICHARD WINN, RICHARD HAMPTON, THOMAS TAYLOR, COMMISSIONERS APPOINTED TO LAY OUT COLUMBIA, ARE SAID TO HAVE MET UNDER AN OAK WHICH GREW NEAR HERE. ACCORDING TO TRADITION THE FIRST COURT AND JURY IN RICHLAND COUNTY ALSO MET HERE. Behind Steward's Hall, on the northwest corner of Sumter and Devine streets, is the University Field House. It has a seating capacity of about four thousand. Basketball and boxing are the principal sports for which this building is used. It is often used for May Day and Commencement exercises. Immediately behind the gymnasium is the University Natatorium, built in 1938. The seating capacity of its spectators' gallery is five hundred. TURN LEFT AT GREEN STREET- Proceed East on Green Street Two Blocks to Pickens Street. On these two blocks the route continues through the University campus. On the right, near the corner, is historical marker 2, SITE OF PARADE GROUND: DURING FEDERAL MILITARY OCCUPATION OF SOUTH CAROLINA 1865-1877, THIS SQUARE WAS PART OF THE PARADE GROUND USED BY UNITED STATES TROOPS. THE BARRACKS WERE LOCATED ON THIS AND ADJACENT SQUARES. Among the troops stationed here was a large part of the 18th Infan try, United States Army. The greater portion of this square is now occupied by two of the University's athletic fields, Davis and Melton fields. The former is named for R. Means Davis, for many years professor of history at this institution. The name of the latter honors William Davis Melton, president SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 35 of the University, 1922-26. It is interesting that in 1943 these athletic fields-site of the former parade ground-became training grounds for the various naval units trained at the University during World War II. The first building passed, facing Green Street, on the left is Preston College, one of the_) University's dormitories, named in honor of William C. Preston, United States senator, 1833-42, president of the South Carolina College, 1845-50-the first alumnus to become president of the institution. The building was completed in 1939. Next to Preston College are three more University dormitories, Burney College, named in honor of William B. Burney who served the ·institution for fifty-one years as professor of chemistry; Snowden College, named for Yates Snowden, for many years head of the University's Department of History; Woodrow College, named for Woodrow Wilson's uncle, James Woodrow, president of the South Carolina College, 1892-97. The oldest of these buildings, Woodrow College, was erected in 191 3, the other two in 1924. The brick wall between the buildings and the sidewalk in this block is part of the old wall which surrounded the original campus. Just beyond the end of the wall, next to Woodrow College, is Melton Memorial Observatory, gift to the University from a distinguished alumnus, Edwin G. Seibels. It was built in 1928 and named in honor of William Davis Melton, a former president of the University. Next to the observatory, facing Green Street, is Davis College, one of the academic buildings of the University. Like Davis Field, it is named for R. Means Davis. The granite boulder, near the observatory, records that the trees bordering the campus from this point to Pickens Street and on Pickens Street to Pen­ dleton Street were: planted in memory of the students and alumni of this University "who gave their lives for their country and humanity on the Mexican border and in the World War 1916-18". The memorial was erected and the trees planted May 30, 1927, by the South Carolina Depart­ ment of the American Legion Auxiliary. A bronze tablet by each tree bears the name of the soldier in whose memory the tree was planted. Across from Melton Observatory, on the corner, next to Melton Field is the Wallace Thomson Infirmary, erected in 1908, given by Mrs. Ann H. Jeter, as a memorial to her nephew, Wallace Thomson, alumnus of the University, class of 1888. 36 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

The two buildings on the right in the next block are the women's dormi­ tories of the University. The first one passed, which faces north, was erected in 1939 and named Sims College in honor of Dr. J. Marion Sims, alumnus of the class of 1832, internationally famous gynecologist. The other women's building was completed in 1924 and is called Wade Hampton College honor­ ing another alumnus of the University, Wade Hampton, III, famous states­ man and soldier.

TURN RIGHT AT PICKENS STREET- Proceed South on Pickens Street Two Blocks to Blossom Street. On the right of the first block p~ssed is Wade Hampton College. On the same side of the street occupying the south half of the next square is Moore Garden, the University of South Carolina Arboretum, development of which was begun in 1937. This garden is named in honor of Andrew Charles Moore, professor of biology at the University, 1900-28. The planting is confined to plants native to South Carolina. West of the garden, on the same side of Blossom Street, are the buildings of ,University Terrace, erected in 1937 under the sponsorship of the Co­ lumbia Housing Authority. Th.is is one of the country's first Federal low­ rent housing projects .. It includes apartments for white people and a separate section of group houses and flats for Negroes. Across Blossom Street f ron1 University Terrace is Booker T. Washington High School, Negro junior and senior high school in the city public school system.

TURN LEFT AT BLOSSOM STREET- Proceed East on Blossom Street through the Southern Railway Under­ pass to Saluda A venue. Blossom Street from Pickens Street to the Southern Railroad passes through Maxcy Gregg Park, one of Columbia's city parks. It was named in honor of a noted Columbian, Maxcy Gregg, who was a brigadier general in the Con­ £ederate Army.

On the left, one block from Pickens Street, is the Woman's Club of Co­ lumbia Club House, erected in 1941. Its auditoriums provide meeting rooms for the club and are the scene of many social and civic activities. In the same block with the Woman's Club House are the University of South Carolina tennis courts. A little farther beyond, on the right, are the student picnic grounds of the University. Up the hill, above the picnic grounds, is the Sons of the American Legion Squadron No. 6 Hut, erected in 1941. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 37

TURN RIGHT AT SALUDA AVENUE- Proceed South on Saluda A venue, up the Hill, to Heyward Street. To the left from the corner of Blossom Street and Saluda Avenue can be seen the buildings of Columbia's "Five Points", development of which as a business center was started about 192 8. Saluda Avenue runs through the center of Wales Garden, named for Edwin Wales Robertson, who was interested in developing this section of the city. The streets in Wales Garden were named for South Carolina rivers which have Indian names. TURN LEFT AT HEYWARD STREET- Proceed East and Southeast on Heyward Street Five Blocks to King Street. (Refer to page 64 for SCENIC ROUTE-EXTRA LOOP NO. 1, turn­ ing right on Heyward Street, at corner of Heyward Street and Saluda Avenue, including Pacific Mills Con1n1unity, Friday's Ferry, State Fair Grounds, University Stadium, Buxton Brothers' Stables.) Heyward Street, named in honor of D. C. Heyward, governor of South Carolina, 1903-07, was first called Lower Street, because it was the lower or southern boundary of the four square miles comprising the original area of Columbia. As a boundary street it was laid out one hundred and fifty feet wide, but by permission of the state part of the street has been used for lawns. (Note: A turn to the right at the corner of Edisto Avenue--one block east of Saluda Avenue-and Heyward Street leads on South Edisto Avenue and Holt Drive to Owens Field, Colun1bia's municipal airport, named in honor of Dr. L. B. Owens, mayor of Colun1bia, 1926-41, who was responsi­ ble for the airport's establishment and development. During World War II a school for training men for the U. S. Navy Air Corps Reserve was con­ ducted here by Hawthorne Flying Service, Inc. in connection with the Civil Aeronautics Administration-War Training Service program at the University of South Carolina.) The church on the left four blocks east of Saluda Avenue, on the north­ east corner of Heyward and Queen streets, is the Wesley Memorial Method­ ist Church, erected in 193 7. TURN LEFT AT KING STREET- Proceed North on King Street Four Blocks to Wheat Street. On the right, two blocks from Heyward Street on King Street and oc- cupying two full squares, is Hand Junior High_ School, one of the junior high schools in the city public school system. It was named for W. H. Hand, superintendent of Columbia Public Schools, 1918-28. 38 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

TURN RIGHT AT WHEAT STREET- Proceed East on Wheat Street Five Blocks to Sims A venue. On the northwest corner of King and Wheat streets is Shandon Park, one of Columbia's smaller parks and playgrounds. This residential section is known as Shandon, named in honor of the Shand family who owned most of this property when the subdivision was laid out. St. Francis de Sales Catholic Church can be seen on the left at the crossing of Maple Street, two blocks from King Street. The stone church on the next corner, on the same side of the street, is St. John's Episcopal Church.

TURN LEFT AT SIMS A VENUE- Proceed North on Sims Avenue Two Blocks to Devine Street. TURN RIGHT AT DEVINE STREET­ Proceed East on Devine Street to Bonham Street. On the northwest corner of Devine Street and Sims Avenue is marker W-6, EARLY COLUMBIA RACETRACK:

FROM EARLY DAYS HORSE RACING WAS A FAVORITE SPORT IN COLUMBIA AND MANY FAMOUS HORSES WERE BRED ON NEIGHBORING PLANTATIONS. COLUMBIA JOCKEY CLUB WAS ORGANIZED BY COL. WADE HAMPTON, II AND COL. RICHARD SINGLETON IN 1828. CONGAREE RACE COURSE WAS LOCATED 300 YARDS NORTH ON PRESENT EPWORTH ORPHANAGE PROPERTY.

Epworth Orphanage, a home for dependent children, supported by the Methodist conferences of South Carolina, has occupied this site since its establishment in 1896. It is equipped to care for three hundred and twenty children. The stone church on the corner of Devine Street and Sims Avenue is the Lutheran Church of the Incarnation. On the same side of the street a few blocks beyond is Shan don Methodist Church. I ts buildings were originally erected for Heathwood School, first a county, and later a city school. The large brick building across the street back of this church is Dreher High School, erected in 19 3 8, one of the senior high schools in Columbia's public school system. It was named in honor of E. S. Dreher, superintendent of Columbia Public Schools, 1895-1918. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 39

TURN LEFT AT BONHAM STREET- (Note: At this intersection of Devine Street, to the right is Bonham Street and to the left is Sweetbriar Road.) Proceed North on Sweetbriar Road to Heathwood Circle. (Refer to page 68 for SCENIC ROUTE-EXTRA LOOP NO. 2, which continues out Devine Street to the United States Veterans' Hospital and passes the roads leading to Fort Jackson, and the sites of antebellum homes of the three Wade Hamptons-Millwood and vVoodlands.) This residential section is known as Heathwood, named for M. Chappelle Heath, who developed it. Mr. Heath's foresight in its beautification is ex­ emplified in the avenues of trees, most of which he planted.

TURN RIGHT AT HEATHWOOD CIRCLE­ Proceed around Heathwood Circle to Devereux Road. The colonial house on the left, completed in 1914, stands on the site of Preston Place, antebellum home of William C. Preston, United States senator, 18 3 3-42, president of the South Carolina College, 1845-5 0. Preston Place, renamed Valle Crucis by a subsequent owner, was afterward purchased by Bishop Patrick N. Lynch. After the fire of 1865, the Ursuline Convent was moved to this building where it remained until 1887.

TURN RIGHT AT DEVEREUX ROAD- Proceed Southeast on Devereux Road One Block to Kilbourne Road. The intersection of Devereux and Kilbourne roads marks the end of Heathwood and beginning of a newer development, Kilbourne Park, named in honor of Major C. E. Kilbourne of the U. S. Army who selected the site for Camp Jackson, Columbia's World War I cantonn1ent.

TURN LEFT AT KILBOURNE ROAD­ Proceed East on Kilbourne Road to Claremont Drive. TURN LEFT AT CLAREMONT DRIVE- Proceed North and East on Claremont Drive to Belt Line Boulevard (Part of S. C. Route 16). On the left is an old estate, Claremont. The house was built during the early part of the Confederate War. It w:is at one time the home of Gov­ ernor D. C. Heyward. 40 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

TURN LEFT AT BELT LINE BOULEVARD- Proceed North on Belt Line Boulevard (Part of S. C. Route 16) One Block to Trenholm Road (S. C. Route 124). It is planned that eventually Belt Line Boulevard will completely encircle Columbia. The view of the sand hill and the pines from the intersection of Clare­ mont Drive and Belt Line Boulevard is typical of this part of South Carolina.

TURN LEFT AT TRENHOLM ROAD- Proceed West on Trenholm Road (S. C. Route 124) to Glenwood Road. This is one of the sections of Columbia which shared the city's rapid growth following the designation of Fort Jackson as a United States Army post in 1940. On the right, about three-quarters of a mile from Belt Line Boulevard, is Carolina Orphan Hon1e, started in 1909 as the Rescue Orphanage, at one time called Carlile Courtenay Home in honor of its founder. This is a nonsectarian institution supported by public funds and voluntary contribu­ tions. It is equipped to care for one hundred and fifty children. This or­ phanage is on the site of the home of the Secretary of the Treasury, Con­ federate States of An1erica, George A. Trenholm, for whom Trenholm Road was named.

TURN RIGHT AT GLENWOOD ROAD- Proceed North on Glenwood Road One Block to Gervais Street. On the east side of this block is Glenwood Golf Course, a privately owned nine-hole course, which is operated on a commercial basis. This course was built in 1932.

TURN LEFT AT GERVAIS STREET­ Proceed West on Gervais Street to Wellington Drive.

TURN RIGHT AT WELLINGTON DRIVE- Proceed North on Wellington Drive One Block to Canterbury Road. TURN LEFT AT CANTERBURY ROAD- Proceed West on Canterbury Road Two Blocks to Westminster Drive. This residential section is called Forest Hills because of its topography. In this area, within a radius of about ten miles, were located many EARLY COUNTRY HOMES some of which are referred to on historical n1arker SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 41

SL-1, on Forest Drive, about a mile east of Forest Hills. The inscription on this marker reads:

IN THIS MALARIA-FREE SANDHILL SECTION WERE THE ANTEBELLUM SUMMER HOMES OF MANY COLUMBIANS: QUININE HILL (DR. J. M. TAYLOR, DR. JAMES DAVIS); HILLTOP (W. J. TAYLOR); EDGEHILL (B. F. TAYLOR); LAUREL HILL (D. J. McCORD); COOPER'S HILL (THOS. COOPER); WINDY HILL (LANGDON CHEVES); ROSE HILL (ARTHUR MIDDLETON); DIAMOND HILL (SINGLETON, McDUFFIE, HAMPTON). Diamond Hill was the home of Wade Han1pton, III, at the time of the Confederate War. It was within the present bounds of Forest Hills in the rectangle on the west side of Westminster Drive ,between Canterbury and Stratford roads. A few foundation stones, all that remained after it was burned by Union troops in 1865, n1ark the site where the house stood.

TURN RIGHT AT WESTMINSTER DRIVE- Proceed North on Westminster Drive One ijlock to Stratford Road.

TURN RIGHT AT STRATFORD ROAD- Proceed East on Stratford Road One Block to Devonshire Drive. (Note: Drive to the left of the parkway in the center of Stratford Road.)

TURN LEFT AT DEVONSHIRE DRIVE- Proceed North on Devonshire Drive One Block to Forest Drive (Con­ tinuation of Taylor Street).

TURN LEFT AT FOREST DRIVE- Proceed West on Forest Drive and Taylor Street to Harden Street. (Refer to page 71 for SCENIC ROUTE-EXTRA LOOP NO. 3, turn­ ing right from Devonshire Drive to Forest Drive leading by Forest Lake Club, through Arcadia and Dents, and to Sesqui-Centcnnial State Park.) On the right (north), just after turning left into Forest Drive, is Waverley Sanitarium, a thirty-five bed private sanitarium for the treatment of nervous and mental diseases. A few blocks farther, on the same side of Forest Drive, is Providence Hospital, a Catholic hospital, opened June, 19 3 8. This is a one hundred and ten bed general hospital, owned and operated by the Sisters of Charity of St. Augustine. 42 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Opposite the Providence Hospital is a low-rent housing project, Gonzales Gardens, erected in 1940 under the sponsorship of the Columbia Housing Authority and named in honor of ((The distinguished Gonzales brothers", A. E. Gonzales, N. G. Gonzales, and William E. Gonzales, "in appreciation of their zeal in the cause of humanity". Two blocks beyond on the same side of the street is a United Service Organization Club, recreation center for Negroes in the armed forces. This building was erected in 1 941. Before reaching Harden Street the route passes between two Negro col­ leges. On the right is Benedict College, established here in 1870 by the Baptist Home Mission Society, aided by the generous gifts of Mrs. Bathsheba Benedict, of Pawtucket, Rhode Island. On the left is Allen University, formerly Payne Institute, of Cokesbury, South Carolina, which has been lo­ cated here since 1880. It was established by the A. M. E. Church.

TURN LEFT AT HARDEN STREET- Proceed South on Harden Street One Block to Hampton Street. On the east side of this block is Allen University. Harden Street was named for William Harden, colonel of the state militia in the Revolutionary War. In the original survey of Columbia this street was laid out one hundred and fifty feet wide because it was the eastern boundary street. At a later date trees were planted in the center of most of the streets, and still later, through the activity of the women of the city, parkways were constructed in n1any of the wider streets. However, this is the only block of Harden Street where a parkway was added.

TURN RIGHT AT HAMPTON STREET­ Proceed West on Hampton Street to Henderson Street. On the south side of the first block passed is the Columbia Hospital of Richland County, a general hospital with five hundred and fifty beds-three hundred and fifty-five for white and one hundred and ninety-five for Negro patients. The Columbia Hospital Association, which was organized by the United King's Daughters of Columbia in 1892, opened the hospital in 1893 and managed it until 1909. A group of Columbia physicians assumed control from 1909 to 1921 when it was trans£ erred to the county by legis­ lative act. The hospital was rebuilt and enlarged in 193 3 and again in 1943. The Negro unit was opened in 1934 and established in a separate Negro hospital building in 1943. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 43

Three blocks west, on the northwest corner of Hampton and Barnwell streets, is one of Columbia's oldest houses. It was built in the early nineteenth century. Governor John L. Manning lived in this house during his term of office as chief executive of South Carolina, 18 5 2-54. In the center of the same Glock, on the opposite side of the street is a quaint old cottage referred to on marker 4 as "CHESNUT COTTAGE": TEMPORARY WARTIME HOME OF GEN. AND MRS. JAMES CHESNUT. HERE THEY ENTERTAINED JEFFERSON DAVIS, PRESIDENT, C. S. A., AND HIS STAFF, OCTOBER 5, 1864. PRESIDENT DAVIS ADDRESSED THE CITIZENS OF COLUMBIA FROM THE FRONT STEPS OF THIS COTTAGE. Note the interesting architectural detail of the banister which combines iron and wood. This unusual treatment is to be found in many old Co­ lumbia houses. Across the street from this house, a few doors beyond, on the northeast corner of Hampton aud Henderson streets, is the boyhood home of Woodrow Wilson. It was purchased in 1929 by the State of South Carolina with a legislative appropriation matched by public subscription. It has been main­ tained as Woodrow Wilson Memorial Museum since 1930. Collected here are many articles associated with Woodrow Wilson. The building is open to the public week days from 9:00 A. M. to 5 :00 P. M. except Saturdays, when it is open from 9:00 A. M. to 12 :00 M. Facing Hampton Street at this corner, half a block south, in· the center of Henderson Street, are the Elks Home and Elks Fraternal Center. The latter is a recreational center for soldiers. In the south side of the next block of Hampton Street is the main building of Columbia Bible College, an interdenominational institution started in 1923. This was the original building of Columbia College (refer to page 7 4). Here are located the Bible College's executive offices, classrooms, wo­ men's dormitory, and guest rooms; on the same property, facing Pickens Street, is its auditorium. TURN RIGHT AT HENDERSON STREET- Proceed North on Henderson Street Two Blocks to Blanding Street. Turning right at Henderson Street the route passes by the side of the Woodrow Wilson Memorial Museum. Approaching Taylor Street, one block away, an excellent view is offered of the Columbia Township Auditorium, on 44 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA the northeast corner of Taylor and Henderson streets. This auditorium, completed in 1930, has a seating capacity of about three thousand five hun­ dred. It is well adapted for exhibitions, conventions, concerts, athletic events, and theatrical performances. It is the meeting place of the larger conventions in Columbia. Columbia's Music Festival, which has been presented annually since 193 5, is held here under the sponsorship of the Columbia Music Festi­ val Aswciation. This organization, which began modestly as a suburban choral club, has grown in aim and scope until it is nationally known for its en.. couragement of good ·music in South Carolina and the South. Among its many successful enterprises is the Southern Symphony Orchestra, founded in 1939, which gives its concerts in the Auditorium. On the west side of Henderson Street, between Taylor and Blanding streets, across from the side of the Auditorium, the ORIGINAL SITE OF WINTHROP COLLEGE is pointed out by historical marker 5:

IN 1886, CHIEFLY THROUGH THE EFFORTS OF D. B. JOHNSON, FIRST SUPERINTENDENT . OF COLUMBIA PUBLIC SCHOOLS, WINTHROP TRAINING SCHOOL, LATER WINTHROP COLLEGE, WAS STARTED HERE IN A SMALL BRICK BUILDING WHICH HAD BEEN THE CHAPEL OF COLUMBIA THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. IN 1936 THIS BUILDING WAS MOVED TO THE CAMPUS OF WINTHROP COLLEGE, ROCK HILL, S. C.

This building was erected for the stable of the central building in this square which was built for a residence (see below for inscription of marker 6).

TURN LEFT AT BLANDING STREET- Proceed West on Blanding Street One Block to Pickens Street. On this block the route passes between two historic squares. On the south side of the block historical marker 6 entitled FORMER SITE OF COLUM­ BIA THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY reads:

FOUNDED 1828 BY PRESBYTERIAN SYNOD OF SOUTH CAROLINA AND GEORGIA. LOCATED HERE 1831. MOVED TO DECATUR, GEORGIA 1925. WOODROW WILSON'S FATHER AND UNCLE WERE AMONG FACULTY l'v1EMBERS. CENTRAL BUILDING, ERECTED 1823, WAS DESIGNED BY ROBERT MILLS AS HOME FOR AINSLEY HALL (1 7 8 3 - 1 8 2 3), COLUMBIA MERCHANT. SouTM-; CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 45

A unit of the Columbia Bible College, including its library, men's dormi­ tories, and office of dean of men, was moved here in the fall of 193 7.

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CENTRAL BUILDING OF FORMER COLUMBIA THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY Drawn hy C. Hardy Oliver

On the north side of the block is HAMPTON-PRESTON HOUSE, the history of which appears on historical marker 7:

B U I L T A B O U T 1818 B Y A I N S L E Y H A L L. PURCHASED 1823 BY WADE HAMPTON, I. INHERITED BY HIS DAUGHTER, MRS. JOHN S. PRESTON, 1863. HEADQUARTERS OF UNION GEN. J. A. LOGAN 1865; RESIDENCE OF GOV. F. J. MOSES 1872-74; URSULINE CONVENT 1887- 90; COLLEGE FOR WOMEN 1890-1915; CHICORA COLLEGE FOR WOMEN 1915-30. THE GARDENS, DEVELOPED DURING HAMPTON - PRESTON OWNERSHIP, WERE ADORNED WITH WORK OF HIRAM POWERS, SCULPTOR. 46 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

TURN RIGHT AT PICKENS STREET-

Proceed North on Pickens Street Two Blocks to Richland Street.

On the east side of the first block passed, with the brick wall surrounding it, are the gardens of the Hampton-Preston House. In the next square, on the right, is Taylor School, one of the elementary schools of the city public ~chool system, named in honor of Governor John Taylor. This school stands on the SITE OF COLUMBIA MALE ACADEMY, the history of which is recorded on marker 8:

TRUSTEES APPOINTED BY LEGISLATURE 1792 WERE INCORPORATED 1795 AND SERVED AS TRUSTEES FOR MALE AND FEMALE ACADEMIES. SCHOOL LOCATED HERE 1827 ON LAND GIVEN BY GOV. JOHN TAYLOR. THOUGH PUBLICLY ENDOWED, THE SCHOOL WAS CONDUCTED AS A PRIVATE ACADEMY UNTIL 1883 WHEN IT WAS MERGED WITH PUBLIC SCHOOL SYSTEM. HUGH S. THOMPSON, GOVERNOR OF S. C. 1882-86, WAS PRINCIPAL OF MALE ACADEMY 1865-80.

Looking to the right from the northwest corner of this square, corner Pickens and Richland streets, can be seen the brick wall surrounding the old TAYLOR BURYING GROUND, which is on the north side of Richland Street, two blocks east f ram this corner. A granite tablet was placed in this wall in 1938 by Mrs. Susan Ames Taylor, whose husband was the fifth Thomas Taylor, direct descendant of Colonel Thomas Taylor. It reads: IN 1786 THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA PURCHASED, FOR PART OF THE SITE OF COLUMBIA, THE PLANTATION OF COL. THOMAS TAYLOR (1743-1833), REVOLUTIONARY SOLDIER. HIS HOUSE WAS SITUATED NEAR THE S-E CORNER OF RICHLAND AND BARNWELL STREETS, ACROSS FROM THIS WALLED EN CLOSURE, WHERE HE LIES BURIED WITH HIS SON, GOV. JOHN TAYLOR, OTHER MEMBERS OF HIS FAMILY AND SLAVES.

The house on the northeast corner of Richland and Pickens streets is one of the oldest in Columbia. Note the large trees in the center of Richland Street east of Pickens Street. They are the last remnant of those which shaded and beautified the narrower streets of Columbia until electric wires and trolley tracks necessitated their removal. SOUTH CAR.OLINA'S CAP IT AL CITY 47

TURN LEFT AT RICHLAND STREET- Proceed West on Richland Street Three Blocks to Sumter Street. This is one of the oldest residential sections of the city. Here are found most of the antebellum homes which survived the burning of Columbia by Union troops in 1865. On the south side of Richland Street, one and one-half blocks west of Pickens Street, is the First Calvary Baptist Church, a Negro church organized by a former slave soon after the Confederate War. On the north side of the next block are the buildings and churchyard of EBENEZER LUTHERAN CHURCH. l\tlarker 9 in front of the central building reads:

FIRST LUTHERAN CONGREGATION IN COLUMBIA. CHURCH DEDICATED IN THIS SQUARE IN 1830 WAS BURNED BY UNION TROOPS IN 1865. IT WAS REBUILT 1870, PARTLY THROUGH AID OF NORTHERN LUTHERANS, AND USED FOR SUNDAY SCHOOL AFTER PRESENT CHURCH WAS COMPLETED IN 1931.

TURN RIGHT AT SUMTER STREET- Proceed North on Sumter Street Two Blocks to Elmwood Avenue.

TURN RIGHT AT ELMWOOD AVENUE- Proceed East on Elmwood Avenue Two Blocks to Bull Street. Elmwood Avenue, the northern or upper boundary of the original area of Columbia, was first named Upper Street. Like Harden and Heyward streets it was laid out one hundred and fifty feet wide. The SOUTH CAROLINA STATE HOSPITAL, surrounded by a high brick wall, closes Elmwood Avenue at Bull Street. Historical marker 1-2, near the entrance gate, records the following early history:

INSTITUTION AUTHORIZED 1821 BY GENERAL ASSEMBLY, MAINLY THROUGH THE WORK OF TWO MEMBERS, SAMUEL FARROW AND WILLIAM CRAFTS, JR. THE ORIGINAL BUILDING, ON RIGHT, DESIGNED BY ROBERT MILLS, SHOWS A PIONEER GRASP OF THE IDEAS OF HUMANITARIAN TREATMENT. The building referred to on the marker is, as far as is known, the oldest state hospital building in continuous use in the United States.- Visitors are 48 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA welcome to drive around the open circle in the center of the grounds from which can be seen several of the buildings.

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MILLS BUILDING, SOUTH CAROLINA STATE HOSPITAL Drawn by C. Hardy Oliver

TURN LEFT AT BULL STREET- Proceed North on Bull Street to Confederate A venue.

(Refer to page 7 4 for SCENIC ROUTE-EXTRA LOOP NO. 4, turn­ ing right from Bull Street to Colonial Drive and proceeding through Eau Claire [North Columbia] by Columbia College and Lutheran Theological Southern Seminary, and near Colun1bia Country Club and Ridgewood Tu­ berculosis Camp.) TURN LEFT AT CONFEDERATE AVENUE- Proceed West on Confederate Avenue Three Blocks to Main Street.

On the northeast corner of Confederate Avenue and Bull Street are the buildings of the Association for the Blind of South Carolina. On the north­ west corner of the same intersection is the South Carolina Con£ederate Sol­ diers' Home. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 49

TURN LEFT AT MAIN STREET- Proceed South on Main Street Six Blocks to Elmwood A venue. (Refer to page 77 for LAKE lvlURRAY LOOP, turning right from Con­ federate Avenue to Main Street and proceeding by site of surrender of Co- lumbia to Sherman, across Broad River, finally to Lake Murray in Lexington County, returning to Columbia through West Columbia.) TURN RIGHT AT ELMWOOD AVENUE- Proceed West on Elmwood A venue Four Blocks to Gadsden Street. On the north side of Elmwood Avenue, two blocks west of Main Street, is Wardlaw Junior High School, city public school, named for Patterson Wardlaw, dean emeritus of the School of Education of the University of South Carolina, in recognition of his constructive leadership in education in the South. The building stands on an old home site. Note the magnificent magnolias on the grounds. One block west is Logan School, one of the elementary schools in the Columbia public school system. This school was nan1ed for Charles Mercer Logan who gave the land on which it stands and $40,000.00 toward the build­ ing. Marker 10 in front of it, entitled OLD STATE FAIR GROUNDS, records: THIS SQUARE IS PART OF THE TRACT WHERE STATE FAIRS WERE HELD 1856-61, 1869- 1903. THE BUILDINGS, USED 1861-65 FOR_ CONFEDERATE BARRACKS AND HOSPITAL, AS WELL AS NITRE AND MINING BUREAU IN C HAR GE O F J O S E P H LE C O NT E AND JAMES WOODROW, WERE BURNED BY UNION TROOPS IN 1865. TURN LEFT AT GADSDEN STREET- Proceed South on Gadsden Street Two Blocks to Richland Street. On the northwest corner of Gadsden and Richland streets is a picturesque old home. On the southwest corner of the same intersection is historical marker 11, pointing out CEMETERY OF THE COLUMBIA HEBREW BENEVOLENT SOCIETY: IN THIS CEMETERY, 2½ BLOCKS SOUTH ON GADSDEN STREET, ARE BUR IE D MANY DISTINGUISHED JEWISH CITIZENS, INCLUDING TWO MAYORS OF COLUMBIA: MORDECAI HENDRICKS DELEON (1791-1849) AND HENRY LYONS (1805-1858). THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETY WAS ORGANIZED IN 1822.; CHARTERED 1834. 50 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

At the entrance to this cemetery, the Columbia Hebrew Benevolent So- ciety, in 19 3 8, erected marker 26 recording that THIS SOCIETY HAS BEEN IN CONTINUOUS EXISTENCE SINCE ITS 0 R GA N I Z AT I O N I N 1 8 2 2. IT WAS CHARTERED 1834. ITS CHARITIES ARE ADMINISTERED TO THE NEEDS OF THE COMMUNITY WITHOUT REGARD TO CREED OR RACE. TURN LEFT AT RICHLAND STREET- Proceed East on Richland Street Three Blocks to Assembly Street. The GOVERNOR'S MANSION occupies the first square on the south side of Richland Street. Marker 12 explains its origin: ARSENAL ACADEMY, CONVERTED FROM A STATE ARSENAL, OCCUPIED THIS SQUARE FROM 1842 TO 1865 WHEN UNION TROOPS BURNED ALL THE AC AD E M Y B U I L D IN GS EXCEPT OFFICERS' QUARTERS, ERECTED 1855. SINCE 1868 THIS BUILDING HAS BEEN THE GOVERNOR'S MANSION. From 1872 to 1879; however, the governors lived elsewhere in Columbia. At the time Arsenal Academy was established here as a secondary school, another state arsenal, in Charleston, was converted into Citadel Academy, with collegiate rank. Note the two old houses on the north side of this block and their handsome

Gov11:RNOR's MANSION Drawn hy C. Hardy Oliver SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 51 iron fences which are identical with the one around the Governor's Mansion. The beautiful garden of the home on the northwest corner of Richland and Lincoln streets is noted especially for its boxwood. One block north f ron1 this corner, on the southwest corner of Lincoln and Calhoun streets, is the Iv1emorial Garden of the Garden Club of South Caro­ lina, maintained as an evergreen memorial to all South Carolinians who served in the second World War. The garden was given to the Garden Club by Mrs. Samuel S. Boylston of Columbia in 1944. It is open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays and on Sunday afternoons. On the southeast corner of Richland and Lincoln streets historical marker 13 points out SITE OF PALMETTO IRON WORKS: ON S-W CORNER OF THIS SQUARE WAS PALMETTO ARMORY, LATER CALLED PALMETTO IRON WORKS. ORIGINALLY BUILT FOR CONVERTING FLINT AND STEEL MUSKETS INTO PERCUSSION GUNS. ARMS AND MUNITIONS WERE MANUFACTURED HERE DURING THE CONFEDERATE WAR 1861-65. In 1942 the city of Columbia constructed a community center f ram the remodeled "shell" of the Palmetto Armory building and called it Arsenal Hill Community Center, because of its location on "Arsenal Hill", the name given to this section since the days v•;rhen the old arsenal stood here. TURN RIGHT AT ASSEMBLY STREET- Proceed South on Assembly Street One Block to Laurel Street. Assembly Street, named for the General Assembly, was laid out in the original survey of Columbia one hundred and fi.f ty feet wide because it was the central street running north and south. It was intended to be the main street. An explanation given for the development of the next street east as Main Street is that before the days of sewerage and paved streets, it was better drained than Assembly Street. TURNLEFTATLAURELSTREET- Proceed East on Laurel Street Three Blocks to Marion Street. On the northwest corner of Laurel and Assembly streets was the home of John Taylor, governor of South Carolina, 1826-28. The house was destroyed by fire in 1893, one hundred and five years after its erection. The present building was erected about 1900 and the place named Laurel Hill. In 1944 it becan1e the home office of a business firm which generously opened the gardens and house to the public for social and civic gatherings. 52 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

On the southwest corner of Laurel and Assembly streets is the Federal Recreation Building in which is located a United Service Organization Club, familiarly known as the "U. S. O.", which provides recreational facilities for the n1en in uniform. At the tin1c the building was erected in 1942 it was said to be the largest Federal Recreation Building in the country.

C1TY HALL AND UNITED STATES CouRT HousE Drawn by C. Hardy Oliver

On the northeast corner of Laurel and Assembly streets is the Arsenal Hill Presbyterian Church. On the southeast corner of the same intersection is the United States Court House, erected in 1936. Here Federal Court is held, and here also are housed many Federal offices, including those of the Col­ lector of Internal Revenue and Weather Bureau. The other building on the south side of this block, on the southwest corner of_ Main and Laurel streets, was completed in 1874 for the United States Post Office and Federal Court House. It was used as a Federal office building and court house from 1921, when another post office was built, until the new Federal Court House was completed. It is now owned by the city and since 1937 has been the City Hall. To the south, one-half block f ron1 the corner of Laurel and Sumter streets, on the east side of Sumter Street is LADSON PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. Historical marker 14 tells of its history: CONGREGATION ORIGINATED IN THE SABBATH SCHOOL FOR COLORED PEOPLE ORGANIZED BY THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH 1838; LATER CONDUCTED BY THE REV. G. W. LADSON. A CHAPEL FOR THE NEGRO MEMBERS OF THAT CHURCH WAS BUILT HERE 1868. REBUILT 1896. THE TITLE WAS TRANSFERRED TO LADSON CHURCH TRUSTEES IN 1895. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 53

Continue East on Laurel Street. On the northeast corner of Laurel and Marion streets marker 15 indicates one of the oldest houses in Columbia, known as DEBRUHL-MARSHALL HOUSE: A FINE EXAMPLE OF THE C L A S S I C S TY L E IN SOUTHERN DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. BUILT I N 1 8 2 0, P R O B A B LY A F T E R A DESIGN O F ROBERT MI LL S. FOR ALMOST ONE HUNDRED YEARS THE HOME OF THE DEBRUHL AND MARSHALL FAMILIES.

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DEBRUHL-MARSHALL HousE Drawn by C. Hardy Oliver

TURN RIGHT AT MARION STREET- Proceed South on Marion Street Three Blocks to Hampton Street. On the west side of l\1arion Street in the middle of the first block passed 54 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA is the House of Peace, orthodox synagogue. On Blanding Street near the next corner, northwest corner of Blanding and Marion streets, marker 16 points out SITE OF BLANDING HOUSE:

IN THIS SQUARE STOOD THE HOME OF COLONEL ABRAM BLANDING (1776-1839) FOR WHOM THIS STREET WAS NAMED. HE WAS FIRST PRINCIPAL, COLUMBIA MALE ACADEMY 1798; A NOTED LA WYER AND PHILANTHROPIST. ABLY SERVED THE STATE ON BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS 1819-28. FINANCED AND BUILT CITY'S FIRST WATER WORKS, 1820.

One and one-half blocks beyond, on the west side of Marion Street is the South Carolina Baptist Hospital, a denominational institution. This is a general hospital with one hundred and nine beds. It is the successor to Knowl­ ton Hospital and was purchased in 1914 by the State Cpnvention of the Raptist denomination in South Carolina. On the east side of the same block, facing Hampton Street, northeast corner Hampton and Marion streets, is the Farm Credit Administration of Columbia. This building was erected in_ 1923, remodeled and ·enlarged in 193 5. In it are the offices of The Federal Land Bank of Columbia, Federal lntern1ediate Credit Bank of Columbia, the Columbia Bank for Cooperatives, and Production Credit Corporation of Columbia. These units of the Farm Credit Administration serve all types of credit needs of farmers in the Third Farm Credit District, which comprises North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida.

TURN RIGHT AT HAMPTON STREET- Proceed West on Hampton Street ·One Block to Sumter Street. In the middle of this block, on the south side of Hampton Street, is the historic FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH. Marker 17 tells of it: CONGREGATION ORGANIZED 1 8 0 9. ORIGINAL C H U R C H, B U I LT 1 8 1 1 ON SUMTER STREET CORNER, WAS BURNED FEB. 17, 1865 BY UNION TROOPS WHO MISTOOK IT FOR THE PRESENT CHURCH, BUILT 1859, WHERE THE SECESSION CONVENTION HAD MET DEC. 17, 1860. BECAUSE OF REPORTED SMALLPOX IN COLUMBIA, THE CONVENTION ADJOURNED TO CHARLESTON. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 55

A bronze tablet on the church further explains that the meet­ ing here on December 17, 1860, lasted from 12 :00 M. to 10 :00 P. M., and was adjourned to meet in Charleston at 4:00 o'clock the next afternoon. The Ordinance of Secession was adopted at Charleston December 20th. The church's modern Sunday school building, named Lindsay Hall, in honor of Wil­ liam C. Lindsay, D.D., pastor of this church, 1877-1913, now occupies the site of the original church. Across the street from Lind­ say Hall, on the northeast cor­ FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH Drawn by Catharine Rembert ner of Hampton and Sumter streets, is Baptist House. Here are located the headquarters of the Baptist denomination of South Carolina, and the Baptist Book Store. In f rant of this building marker 18, entitled SITE OF GIBBES HOUSE, has been erected:

ON THIS CORNER STOOD THE HOME OF DR. ROBERT W. GIBBES (1809-66) DISTINGUISHED PHYSICIAN, SCIENTIST, HISTORIAN, EDITOR, ANTIQUARIAN; SURGEON GENERAL OF SOUTH CAROLINA 1861-65. THE HOUSE WITH HIS NOTABLE LIBRARY, ART TREASURES AND SCIENTIFIC COLLECTIONS \VAS BURNED BY UNION TROOPS FEBRUARY 17, 1865.

1"'URN LEFT AT SUMTER STREET- Proceed South on Sumter Street One Block to Washington Street.

In the center of this block on the east side is the Y. M. C. A. Woodrow Wilson was the principal speaker at the laying of its cornerstone, June, 1911. He was at that time governor of New Jersey. On the opposite side of the street, on the northwest corner of Sumter and Washington streets, is the Richland County Court House, the second on 56 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA this site. The first which stood here, erected in 18 7 4, was torn down in 1935 to make way for this building which was completed in 1937. An earlier court house, on the northeast corner of rviain and Washington streets, was burned by Union troops in 1865. With it were destroyed most of the county records, including those regarding previous district and county court houses located in Columbia. Soon after the Confederate War Carolina Hall was erected and used for a temporary court house from 1868 to 187 4. Marker 19, on the west side of this block of Sumter Street, indicates SITE OF CAROLINA HALL and tells something of the part it played in South Carolina history:

AFTER RED SHIRT CAMPAIGN OF 1876 WADE HAMPTON WAS INAUGURATED GOVERNOR OF SOUTH CAROLINA AT CAROLINA HALL \VHICH STOOD IN CENTER OF THIS SQUARE. DURING THE DUAL GOVERNMENT THAT FOLLOWED, THE DEMOCRATIC HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES (WALL ACE HOUSE) MET HE RE UNTIL THE HAMPTON ADMINISTRATION GAINED POSSESSION OF THE STATE HOUSE.

TURN LEFT AT WASHINGTON STREET-

Proceed East on Washington Street One Block to Marion Street.

On the northeast corner of Washington and Sumter streets is the Richland County Public Library, a free library, which serves the city and county from this building, and through deposit libraries and a library truck. The building which houses the library was erected soon after the Confederate War by Woodrow Wilson's uncle, James Woodrow, professor at Columbia Theological Seminary, 1861-86, outstanding Presbyterian editor and publisher, president of the South Carolina College, 1892-97. The front of the house, facing Washington Street, was his home, and the rear, opening on Sumter Street, was his printing plant. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 57

On the other end of this block, northwest corner of Washington and Marion streets, is Columbia High School which stands on the SITE OF COLUMBIA FEMALE ACADEMY, regarding which marker 20 reads:

A U T H O RI Z E D BY LEGISLATURE 1 7 9 2, THE COLUMBIA FEMALE ACADEMY WAS LOCATED HERE FROM ABOUT 1820 TO 1883, WHEN THE PROPERTY WAS LEASED TO COLUMBIA PUBLIC SCHOOL COMMISSIONERS, TWO OF WHOM STILL REPRESENT T H E A C A D E M Y B O A R D. THE REMODELED ACADEMY BECAME THE FIRST COLUMBIA HIGH SCHOOL, IN USE UNTIL 1915.

The present building, erected in 1915, has been enlarged since that time. •, , On the northeast corner of Washington and Marion streets is WASHING­ TON STREET METHODIST CHURCH. Marker 21 records that

A CHURCH WAS BUILT HERE BETWEEN 1803 AND 1805; ANOTHER CHURCH, ERECTED 1832, WAS BURNED BY UNION TROOPS IN 1865 AND RECONSTRUCTED IN 1866 OF SALVAGED BRICK AND CLAY MORTAR. PRESENT CHURCH DEDICATED 1875. BISHOP WM. CAPERS (1790- 1855), FOUNDER OF MISSIONS TO SLAVES IN S. C., WAS A PASTOR AND IS BURIED HERE.

It is said that the original church, built here between 1803 and 1805, was the first house of worship of any denomination in Columbia. The mod­ ern educational building east of the church was erected in 1928.

TURN RIGHT AT MARION STREET- Proceed South on Marion Street Three Blocks to Senate Street.

The east side of the first block passed is occupied by the FIRST PRESBY­ TERIAN CHURCH, its Sunday school building, recreation building, and churchyard. Marker 22 gives some of the church's history: 58 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

F I R S T C O N G RE GA T I O N ORGANIZED IN COLUMBIA (1795). THE CHURCHYARD, ALLOTTED AS A PUBLIC BURYING GROUND IN 1798, WAS GRANTED TO THIS CHURCH 1813. HERE ARE BUR IE D: D. E. DUNLAP, FIRST PASTOR; CHANCELLOR H. W. DESAUSSURE; JONATHAN MAXCY, FIRST PRESIDENT OF S. C. COLLEGE; ANN PAMELA CUNINGHAM, FOUNDER OF MT. VERNON LADIES' ASSOCIATION; U. S. SENATORS F. H. ELMORE AND WM. F. DESAUSSURE; t AND THE PARENTS OF WOODROW WILSON. n ~? The first church of this congregation was n / ...... -~"'/!'.¼ ft completed in 1815 and the present building m dedicated in 18 5 3. This is the only church f if\ in Columbia with chimes. J -::. l 1 .: _;.... - In the center of the west side of this block of Marion Street is the Administration Build­ ing of the Columbia Public Schools. In 1944 , the Colun1bia Army Air Ba·se Non-Commis­ sioned Officers' Mess Number 3 was opened in the building next to the Administration Building. The house in which General Lafavette was " entertained during his visit to Columbia, March 11-14, 182 5, was located about one­ half block east of the corner of IV1arion and Gervais streets, on the north side of Gervais

FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH Street. A granite boulder marker points out Drawn by Sophie Wallace the site. The house was torn down in 1944.

TURN LEFT AT SENATE STREET- Proceed East on Senate Street Five Blocks to Gregg Street. The home of William Harrison Scarborough, portrait and miniature painter, who lived in Colun1bia from 1843 until his death in 1871, was located in the square on the south side of Senate Street between Marion and Bull streets. The second house on the south side of the next block passed was built by An1brose E. Gonzales, author and editor, whose brother, William E. Gonzales, was ambassador to Peru during Woodrow Wilson's administration. When President Wilson visited Columbia, while he was governor of New Jersey, he was the Gonzales' guest in this house. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 59

Three blocks east, on the southeast corner of Senate and Barnwell streets, stands the LAST HOME OF WADE HAMPTON, indicated by marker 23:

WADE HAMPTON, III, BORN MARCH 28, 1818, WAS COMMANDER OF HAMPTON LEGION 1861 WITH RANK OF COLONEL; LIEUTENANT GENERAL, C. S. A., 1865; GOVERNOR OF S. C., 1876-79; U. S. SENATOR 1879-91. HE DIED APRIL 11, 1902 IN THIS HOUSE, GIVEN TO HIM IN 1899 BY A GRATEFUL PEOPLE.

TURN "U" TURN ON SENATE STREET AT GREGG STRE~T- Proceed West on Senate Street Eight Blocks to Assembly Street. (Note: On Gervais Street, one block north of Senate Street between Hen­ derson and Pickens streets, was SHERMAN'S HEADQUARTERS, pointed out by marker W-7: DURING THE FEDERAL OCCUPATION OF COLUMBIA F E B R U ARY 1 7 - 1 9, 1 8 6 5 COMMANDING GE N E RA L WILLIAM T. SHERMAN HAD HIS HEADQUARTERS HERE. To include this site in the Scenic Route:

TURN RIGHT AT CORNER OF SENATE AND HENDER­ SON STREETS- Proceed North on Henderson Street One Block to Gervais Street.

TURN LEFT AT GERVAIS STREET- Proceed West on Gervais Street One Block to Pickens Street.

TURN LEFT AT PICKENS STREET- Proceed South on Pickens Street One Block to Senate Street.

On the southwest corner of Pickens and Gervais streets is The Moore Clinic Hospital, a sixteen-bed private orthopedic hospital, opened in 1940. The stone church passed on the east side of Pickens Street is the First Church of Christ Scientist. 60 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

TURN RIGHT AT SENATE STREET- Rejoining the SCENIC ROUTE Which Proceeds West on Senate Street.) On the northeast corner of Pickens and Senate streets is McMaster School, one of the elementary schools in the Columbia public school system. It was named for a former mayor of Columbia, Colonel Fitz William McMaster, in appreciation of his activity and interest in the inauguration of Columbia's public school system. Near the northwest corner of Senate and Pickens streets ( 15 2 7 Senate Street) is an interesting old house referred to on marker 24 as HORRY­ GUIGNARD HOUSE: 0 N E O F T H E O L D E S T H O U S E S IN COLUMBIA. BUILT BEFORE 1813, PROBABLY BY PETER HORRY (1747-1815), COLONEL IN REVOLUTION; BRIGADIER GENERAL OF S. C. MILITIA. LATER THE HOME OF JOHN GABRIEL GUIGNARD (1 7 5 1 - 1 8 2 2), SURVEYOR GENERAL OF SOUTH CAROLINA, 1798-1802. A few blocks farther on, the route passes by the parish house of Trinity Episcopal Church. Across the street from it is the BIRTHPLACE OF GENERAL MAXCY GREGG, pointed out by marker 25: MAXCY GREGG, CONFEDERATE GENERAL AND LEADER IN SOUTHERN RIGHTS MOVEMENT, WAS BORN AUG. 1, 1815 IN A HOUSE ON THIS SITE. MEMBER OF COMMITTEE WHICH FRAMED THE ORDINANCE OF SECESSION, DEC. 1860; COLONEL lsT REGIMENT SOUTH CAROLINA VOLUNTEERS; BRIGADIER GENERAL IN 1861. MORTALLY WOUNDED AT FREDERICKSBURG DEC. 13, 1862; DIED TWO DAYS LATER. After crossing Sumter Street the route passes by the John C. Calhoun and Wade Hampton state office buildings and the State House and grounds.

TURN RIGHT AT ASSEMBLY STREET- Proceed North on Assembly Street Six Blocks to Blanding Street. The house on the southwest corner of Senate and Assembly streets is his­ torically interesting. Slaves were sold from the premises. The basement of the dwelling and a small brick building in the rear are shown as quarters where the slaves were kept before sale. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 61

On the cast side of the first block of Assembly Street passed are the State House grounds.

From the intersection of Senate and Assembly streets can be seen the three sheds of Columbia's Curb Market. The two to the north, passed on this tour, were erected in 193 5, the other in 193 8. The market has become a retail and wholesale distributing point for produce from the South Atlantic states. It has proved a boon to the farn1ers of neighboring counties who by imme­ diate sale of their products have been encouraged in diversified farming. Visitors as well as Columbia housewives are interested in the year-round dis­ play of fresh fruits and vegetables, flowers from February through November, and Christmas trees and evergreens in December. Tourists are especially pleased to find such South Carolina specialties as water-ground meal, home­ canned delicacies, "fat lightwood" all the year, and fresh figs, sugar cane, Jerusalem artichokes, and pecans in season. The atmosphere of friendly courtesy makes the market one of the pleasantest places in Columbia.

On the west side of Assembly Street, two blocks north of the Curb Market, are URSULINE CONVENT, St. Peter's Parochial School, and ST. PE­ TER'S CHURCH. Marker S-3 tells of the convent and church:

CURB MARKET, 1939 Drawn by Edward Mason 62 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

FIRST CHURCH BUILT 1824; PRESENT CHURCH 1906. IN THE CHURCHYARD IS BURIED JOHN R. NIERNSEE (1823-85), MAJOR, C. S. A.; ARCHITECT OF THE STATE HOUSE. URSULINE CONVENT LOCATED S-E CORNER MAIN AND BLANDING STREETS 1858-65; VALLE CRUCIS 1865-87; HAMPTON-PRESTON HOUSE 1887-90; ERECTED HERE 1889. The convent is a high school for girls only, the parochial school, an elementary school for boys and girls. The first theatre in Columbia stood on the site now occupied by the convent. It is interesting that Father T. J. Heg­ ~c::. arty, who was in charge of this ~t,::::~­ /-~ parish when the present church .,. and parochial school were built, .. ~ •r~ ...~ ~~ is buried in the vestibule of the i: church. In 1941 the United !-,.. Service O'rganization established a center in the school _building to provide recreational facilities for men in uniform. Note the interesting wall and DooRWAY, ST. PETER,s CHURCH iron fence around the old house Drawn by Edward Mason on the northeast corner of As- sembly and Taylor streets. Also note the view of the Federal. Recreation Building (U. S. 0. Club) on the hill to the north. A beautiful park which occupied this section was sacrificed in 1899 to railroad development. The terraced hill on which the Federal Recreation Building stands is the only part of the park which was not appropriated for commercial purposes. TURN RIGHT AT BLANDING STREET- Proceed East on Blanding Street One Block to Main Street. In the center of the south side of this block is Sidney Park Methodist " Church, a Negro church, which took its name from the former park. TURN RIGHT AT MAIN STREET­ Proceed South on Main Street to the State House. Here the route enters and proceeds through the most concentrated retail shopping district of the city. Even a brief outline of the story of the old SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 63 and new places of business passed would resemble a directory of Main Street firms. Therefore, n1ention is made only of sites which played important and interesting parts in Columbia's history and development. As pointed out on marker S-3 (refer to page 62) Ursuline Convent stood on the southeast corner of Main and Blanding streets from 185 8 until 1865 when it was burned by Union troops. As early as 1792 a newspaper was printed on the southwest corner of Main and Hampton streets. Historic buildings on three corners of the intersection of Main and Washington streets were destroyed in the fateful fire of 1865 when every building on Main Street except the French Consulate was reduced to ashes. The northwest corner, now occupied by the South Carolina National Bank Building, was the SITE OF CITY HALL. The bronze tablet, placed on the front of the building by the bank and the Columbia Sesquicentennial Com­ n1ission of 193 6, records that

COLUMBIA'S FIRST TOWN HALL, BUILT ON THIS SITE BEFORE 1826, INCLUDED A MARKET AND LATER A THEATRE. IT WAS BURNED BY UNION TROOPS FEBRUARY 17, 1865. THE CITY HALL, WITH OPERA HOUSE, REBUILT HERE IN 1874, WAS A MONUMENT TO PUBLIC FRAU D S OF THE RECONSTRUCTION ERA. IT WAS ACCIDENTALLY BURNED 1899. On the northeast corner of this intersection was the Richland District Court House burned by Union troops in 1865; on the southeast corner was the Athenaeum-lecture and exhibition hall, and Columbia's first public library. During the war, until the building was burned, Confederate money was n1ade here. Columbia's third city hall, including a theatre, was built on the northwest corner of Main and Gervais streets in 1900. Municipal offices were located there until 1937 when they were moved to the former United States Post Office and Federal Court House building on the southwest corner of Main and Laurel streets. This theatre was the scen·e of many memorable per£orm­ ances during the days of first-class road shows. It was later converted into a 1novie theatre. In the spring of 1939 the building was torn down to make way for a hotel. One hour and fifteen miles from its starting point this SCENIC ROUTE ends where it began-at the north entrance of the State House. Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 1

( Adds 4.4 Miles-15 Minutes to Main SCENIC RouTE)

START-CORNER SALUDA AVENUE AND HEYWARD STREET- Proceed West on Heyward Street to Pickens Street.

West f ram the corner of Heyward and Pickens streets is a panoramic view of the valley later passed in this loop, including the Pacific Mills Com­ munity, State Fair Grounds, and University Stadium. This extra tour, im­ possible to include in the main SCENIC ROUTE, is offered especially for its picture of the industrial center, the development of which has been of great importance to Columbia since 189 5.

TURN RIGHT AT PICKENS STREET- Proceed North on Pickens Street One Block to Whaley Street. From this corner there is a picturesque view of the State House dome, and the University buildings on the hill to the north. Whaley Street was1 named for W. B. Smith Whaley, in recognition of his service to Columbia in the development of cotton mills.

TURN LEFT AT WHALEY STREET- Proceed West on Whaley Street .9 Mile to Wayne Street. Two blocks west, on the southwest corner of Whaley and Marion streets, is the House of Peace Cemetery, a Jewish cemetery start_ed in 1908. Richland Mill, one of the Columbia Division of Pacific Mills, is on the west side of Main Street, north of Whaley Street, in easy view from the in­ tersection of these streets. Two blocks north of this intersection, also on the west side of Main Street, is the Union Station. Continuing west on Whaley Street the route passes under the Southern Railway tracks, over the Atlantic Coast Line Railroad, and a few blocks be­ yond under the Seaboard Air Line Railway tracks. Immediately beyond the Seaboard tracks Whaley Street becomes one of the main streets of Pacific Mills Community, Columbia's largest n1ill community. Most of the mill officials live in these blocks on Whaley Street.

[ 64] SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 65

On the southeast corner of Whaley and Wayne streets is the South Side Baptist Church, erected in 1901. Two blocks west of this intersection is Whaley Street Methodist Church.

In the center of the parkway at this corner is the "doughboy" monument erected by the people of Pacific Community. Inscription on the north side reads:

DEDICATED TO THE MEMORY OF OUR COMRADES FROM PACIFIC COMMUNITY WHO GAVE THEIR LIVES IN THE WORLD WAR.

On the south side of the monument appears the "Pacific Community Honor Roll 1917-18".

TURN LEFT AT WAYNE STREET- Proceed South and Southeast on Wayne Street, Olympia Avenue, and Bluff Road 1.5 Miles to Stadium Road. (Note: Wayne Street becomes Olympia A venue one block south of Whaley Street. Farther south, when it becomes part of S. C. Route 48, it is called Bluff Road.) On the east side of the first block passed is Trinity Mission, the com­ munity's Episcopal church. In the next block, on the same side of the street, is St. Patrick's Catholic Church. On the west side of Wayne Street, opposite Trinity Mission, is the Pacific Mills' medical dispensary and clinic. On the same side of the street, in the next block, are Olympia and Granby cotton mills, both in the Columbia Division of Pacific Mills. At one time the Olym­ pia Mill was the largest cotton mill under one roof in the world. On the east side of Olympia Avenue, a few blocks beyond the Catholic church, northeast corner of Olympia Avenue and Georgia Street, is St. Luke's Lutheran Church, erected in 1904. On the west side of the road, just beyond the last street in Pacific Mills Con1n1unity, are the buildings of Olympia School. The school was founded in 1901 ; elementary school building erected in 1909; high school, in 1925. The vocational building and the gymnasium were built in 193 8. Olympia School is in the Richland County school system. For the size of its enroll­ ment this vocational school offered broader training than any other in the state at the time of its establishment. 66 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

The building west of the gymnasium is Olympia Armory. It faces Granby Lane, which leads to the forn1er site of FRIDAY'S FERRY (OR EAST GRANBY) referred to on historical marker U-1, erected about two hun­ dred yards south of the lane on S. C. Route 48: 1 MI. WEST WAS EAST GRANBY LANDING OF FR ID A Y'S FERRY (LICENSED 1754) ACROSS CONGAREE RIVER. FLOODS DESTROYED TWO BRIDGES BUILT 179 1 AND 179 6 BY WADE HAMPTON, I. PRESIDENT WASHINGTON CROSSED HERE MAY 22, 1791 ON HIS SOUTHERN TOUR. MT. TACITUS, 3 MI. SOUTH, WAS A PLANTATION OF CHARLES PINCKNEY ( 1 7 5 7 - 1 8 2 4 ), FOUR TIMES GOVERNOR OF SOUTH CAROLINA. Charles Pinckney was also one of the four signers of the United States Constitution from South Carolina, United,.:States senator, and minister to Spain. Much of the granite used to build the State House came from Granby Quarry which was located at the Ea~_t,_ Granby landing of Friday's Ferry. There arc no ruins here to testify to past history. However, near a house on this site there are two tombstones bearing dates 1819 and 1823. Old citizens tell of finding Indian relics nearby. Beyond the historical marker the loop continues southeast on S. C. Route 48. On the east are the State Fair Grounds.

TURN LEFT AT STADIUM ROAD- Proceed Northeast, then Northwest on Stadium Road .7 Mile to Rosewood Drive (Part of S. C. Route 16). On the north are the State Fair Grounds where the State Fair is held an­ nually the third week in October. On the south is the University Stadium, opened in 1934. Its seating capacity is about seventeen thousand five hundred, but attendance of over twenty thousand has been recorded at the larger foot­ ball games. On the west, after the turn on Stadium Road, are the State Fair Grounds and Buxton Brothers' Stables where many famous horses, including Sun Beau, Cavalcade, Seabiscuit, and Stagehand have been trained and wintered. The owners of these stables are glad to show them to interested visitors.

TURN RIGHT AT ROSEWOOD DRIVE- Proceed East across the Atlantic Coast Line Railroad Tracks, under the Southern Railway Tracks, on Rosewood Drive (Part of S. C. Route 16) .6 Mile to South Saluda Avenue. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 67

TURN LEFT AT SOUTH SALUDA AVENUE- Proceed North Four Blocks on South Saluda Avenue to Heyward Street. Two blocks north, on the west side of South Saluda Avenue is Rose Hill Presbyterian Church.

TURN RIGHT AT HEYWARD STREET- Rejoining the Main SCENIC ROUTE at this Intersection. (Refer to page 37.) Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 2

( Adds 3.6 Miles-8 Minutes to Main SCENIC RouTE)

(Omits Main SCENIC ROUTE from Intersection of Devine Street and Bonham Street to Intersection of Claremont Drive and Belt Line Boulevard [Part of S. C. Route 16].)

START-CORNER DEVINE STREET AND BONHAM STREET- Proceed East and Southeast on Devine Street and Garner's Ferry Road (U. S. Route 76) 2.1 Miles to Veterans' Hospital. Beyond the city limits Devine Street is called Garner's Ferry Road, named for the old Wateree River ferry. It is now part of U. S. Route 76. This was one of the first four-lane highways and beautification projects in the South Carolina state highway system. On the left, one mile from the start­ ing point of this SCENIC ROUTE LOOP, is Fort Jackson Boulevard (S. C. Route 760) leading to Fort Jackson. About one-tenth of a mile beyond, just across Gill Creek, is marker W-5 pointing out CAMP JACKSON:

NAMED IN HONOR OF GEN. ANDREW JACKSON. THIS CANTONMENT SITE 1½ MI. NORTH WAS APPROVED BY THE WAR DEPT. JUNE 2, 1917. MAXIMUM STRENGTH WAS RECORDED IN JUNE 1918: 3,302 OFFICERS; 45,402 MEN. 81sT DIVISION WAS TRAINED HERE AUG. 29, 1917- MAY 18, 1918; THE 5TH DIVISION STATIONED HERE OCT. 20, 1920-OCT. 4, 1921. MADE A TRAINING CAMP FOR NATIONAL GUARD 1925.

The marker is at the intersection of Garner's Ferry Road with Wildcat Road-a spur of S. C. Route 760. It was from Wildcat Branch, which crosses Fort Jackson Boulevard about a mile north, that the 81 st or Wildcat Divi­ sion, U. S. Army, took its nan1e. It is said that this was the first division of the American Expeditionary Forces in World War I which adopted a "divi­ sional insignia". In 1940 Camp Jackson, with an increased area, was made a permanent post of the United States Army and renamed Fort Jackson. In World War II Fort Jackson became one of the largest cities in South Caro­ lina and the largest infan try training post in the country.

[ 68] SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 69

A tour through the reservation affords an additional interesting "loop" to the Scenic Route; but is omitted from this guide book because the post is not at all times open to visitors. Though no tour is outlined here, it is understood that families and friends of the men in uniform stationed at Fort Jackson are welcome within the post during weekends and leisure hours.

On the same side of the road, a half-mile east up the hill, which has long been known as Hampton Hill, is n1arker W-4 entitled WOODLANDS AND MILLWOOD, pointing out sites of ancestral Hampton homes:

1½ MI. SOUTH WAS WOODLANDS, BUILT BEFORE 1800 BY WADE HAMPTON, I ( 175 2-18 3 5 ), COLONEL IN REVOLUTION, MAJOR GENERAL IN WAR OF 1812. ¼ MI. NORTH WAS MILLWOOD, BUILT BEFORE 1820 BY WADE HAMPTON, II (1791-1858), AIDE TO GEN. JACKSON, WAR OF 1812. BOYHOOD HOME OF WADE HAMPTON, III (1818-1902), LIEUTENANT GENERAL, C. S. A.; GOVERNOR OF SOUTH CAROLINA 1 8 7 6 - 7 9. UNION TROOPS BURNED BOTH HOUSES 1865.

It is said that the first cotton produced in Richland County was grown at Woodlands plantation. The columns of Millwood, all that was left after the house was burned in 1865, can be seen from the highway up the private road which is west of the marker.

The road to the south off U. S. Route 76 by the west bound­ ary of the Veterans' Hospital leads to the site of Woodlands. No trace of it remains. Two handsome trees which stood in front of the house, and the old spring, not visible from the road, , ·r/f,! are its only identification marks. ,., ••: ! I ; : , J O ~ 1 , ., .._ • The Negro tenant houses nearby RUINS OF MILLWOOD have quaint Dutch ovens and Drawn by C. Hardy Oliver plastered walls which suggest an­ tiquity, but it is not known whether even their foundations were those of the original slave quarters. 70 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Immediately beyond the road leading to Woodlands, on the south side. of Garner's Ferry Road, is a United States Veterans' Hospital, the official name for which is Veterans' Administration Facility. It was erected in 1931-32, opened December, 1932, with separate units for white and Negro patients. In 1937 it was enlarged and now has a capacity of six hundred and six beds-three hundred and sixty-three for white patients and two hundred and forty-three for Negroes. General medical and surgical cases are taken here and a lin1ited number of Negro tuberculosis cases. Visitors are always welcome in the hospital grounds during visiting hours and upon receiving permission through the guard at the gate are privileged to ride through the grounds at any time during the daylight hours.

TURN RIGHT INTO VETERANS' HOSPITAL GROUNDS AT CENTRAL GATE- Drive around Hospital Buildings and Return to Garner's Ferry Road through Same Gate. . TURN LEFT FROM VETERANS' HOSPITAL GROUNDS INTO GARNER'S FERRY ROAD- Proceed Northwest on Gamer's Ferry Road 1.2 Miles to Cross Hill Avenue.

TURN RIGHT INTO CROSS HILL A VENUE- Proceed on Cross Hill Avenue to Belt Line Boulevard (Part of S. C. Route 16).

TURN RIGHT AT BELT LINE BOULEVARD- Proceed North on Belt Line Boulevard to Trenholm Road (S. C. Route 124).

TURN LEFT AT TRENHOLM ROAD- Having Rejoined the SCENIC ROUTE at Intersection of Belt Line Boulevard and Claremont Drive.

(Refer to page 40.) Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. J ( Adds 18.4 Miles-35 Minutes to Main SCENIC RouTE if Sesqui-Centennial State Park Also In­ cluded. If Sesqui-Centennial State Park Omitted Adds Only 10.8 Miles-25 Minutes to Main SCENIC RouTE.) (Omits Main SCENIC ROUTE from Intersection of Devonshire and Forest Drives to Intersection of U. S. Route 1, and Taylor Street [Forest Drive].) START-INTERSECTION OF DEVONSHIRE AND FOR­ EST DRIVES- Proceed East on Forest Drive (S. C. Route 12) 2.3 Miles to Intersec­ tion of Forest Drive and Trenholm Road (S. C. Route 124). About three-quarters of a mile south of the starting point, at the intersec- tion of Forest Drive and Belt Line Boulevard, part of S. C. Route 16, is his­ torical marker SL-1, EARLY COUNTRY HOMES, for inscription of which ref er to page 41. TURN LEFT AT INTERSECTION OF FOREST DRIVE AND TRENHOLM ROAD- Proceed North on Trenholm Road (S. C. Route 124) 3.3 Miles to U. S. Route 1. (Note: S. C. Route 124 ends at U. S. Route 1 at the Town of Dents.) On the southeast corner of the intersection of Forest Drive and Trenholm Road is Trenholm Road Golf Course, a nine-hole course built in 1933. It is privately owned and operated on a commercial basis. On Forest Drive about one hundred yards east of Trenholm Road is historiral marker SL-2, FISHER'S MILL ON GILL CREEK: ABOUT 1 8 0 0, COL. THOMAS TAYLOR ERECTED THE SMALL BUILDING, ¼ MILE UPSTREAM, WHERE COTTON GOODS WERE WOVEN FOR HIS PLANTATION NEEDS. HERE JOHN AND EDWARD FIS HER LATER ESTABLISHED ONE OF THE EARLIEST SPINNING MILLS IN RI CH LAN D COUNTY, USING SL AVE LABOR AND MANUFACTURING COTTON YARN. The road which the route takes runs parallel to Gill Creek a few hundred yards. The ruins of the abandoned mill may be seen beyond the first side road to the right. [ 7 I ] 72 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

The first paved road to the right leads to Forest Lake Club, one of Co­ lumbia's country clubs, organized in I 924, and located on the west bank of Forest Lake, an artificial lake made by damming the waters of Gill Creek. The club's facilities include golf, tennis, swimming, boating, and fishing.

On Trenholm Road, S. C. Route 124, about two miles northeast from its intersection with Forest Drive, is Arcadia, a picturesque suburb built around a series of artificial lakes. Here many Colun1bians have country homes. The cool summer nights in this sandhill section make it especially desirable during the hot months. Not far beyond Arcadia the route crosses the Seaboard Air . Line Railway tracks at Dents. At this point S. C. Route -~~-_-}/1<. i 124 enters U. S. Route 1. About two ·. ~1,, miles southeast of Dents is Fox Hill, .. , '. owned by Pine Tree Hunt Club which . . 1' . . ·f was organized in 19 3 8 and moved to Fox -_ ·:.. >·-:·. --. . . :- : : -1 Hill in 1941. The club's stables and kennels are located here. About one hundred and fifty yards f•t·.. ···••.;_: northeast of Dents on U. S. Route 1, ~, )~:"k:i;. ::. · :· ... ·., · ,. , · -~ which is also known as Jefferson Davis

YELLOW JESSAMINE, STATE FLOWER Highway, marker S-1 points out EARLY Drawn hy Antoinette Rhett SUMMER RESORTS:

LIGHTWOOD KNOT SPRINGS, SITUATED ABOUT TWO MILES NORTH, A P O P U LA R S U M M E R RESORT DURING FIRST HALF OF NINETEENTH CENTURY, WAS .LATER CONFEDERATE TRAINING C A M P FOR R E C R U I T S. A FEW MILES EAST WAS RICE CREEK SPRINGS, ANOTHER EARLY SUMMER RESORT AND THE SITE OF RICHLAND POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE, 1830-1845.

About four miles northeast of Dents, on the east side of U. S. Route 1, is Sesqui-Centennial State Park, established in 1937. The following inscrip­ tion on the tablet erected within the park in 1941 by the South Carolina State Commission of Forestry explains the origin of the park: SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 73

DEDICATED TO THE RECREATION OF THE PEOPLE AND MADE AVAILABLE TO THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA BY THE COLUMBIA SESQUI-CENTENNIAL COMMISSION OF 1936, IN COMMEMORATION OF THE 150TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FOUNDING OF THE CITY OF COLUMBIA. This park provides for swimming and picnicking and will eventually off er boating, fishing, trails for both riding and hiking, and facilities for trailer and tent camping and open air theatricals. TURN LEFT AT U.S. ROUTE 1- Proceed Southwest on U. S. Route 1 Five Miles to Taylor Street. (Note: To include Sesqui-Centennial State Park in this tour: TURN RIGHT AT U.S. ROUTE 1- Proceed East and Northeast on U. S. Route 1, 3.8 Miles to the Park. Return to Dents by the Same Road.) About three and a half n1iles south of Dents this loop enters a Co­ lumbia suburb, Edgewood. On the west side of the road, just within the limits of Edgewood, are Crescent Hill Baptist Church and Crescent Hill Memorial Park. The cemetery was founded in 1934, the church erected in 1944. On the next cross road to the east is Ellen Watkins School, one of the elementary schools in the Columbia public school system, named for Mrs. Ellen Stanley, Watkins in recognition of her services to the city schools. On the west side of the highway about one hundred yards beyond is marker S-2, pointing out the site of SOUTH CAROLINA FEMALE COL­ LEGIATE INSTITUTE:

AT BARHAMVILLE, ABOUT ½ MI. WEST OF THIS POINT, A FAMOUS GIRLS' SCHOOL, FOUNDED BY DR. ELIAS MARKS (1790-1886), WAS LOCATED 1828-65. AMONG THE STUDENTS WERE ANNA MARIA, DAUGHTER OF JOHN C. CALHOUN; ANN PAMELA CUNINGHAM, FOUNDER OF MT. VERNON LADIES' ASSOCIATION; MARTHA BULLOCH, MOTHER OF PRESIDENT THEODORE ROOSEVELT. About a quarter-mile nearer Columbia on the same side of the road is Edgewood Methodist Church, established here in 1884.

TURN RIGHT AT TAYLOR STREET- Rejoining the Main SCENIC ROUTE at this Intersection. (Refer to page 41.) Scenic Route-Extra Loop No. 4 ( Adds 3.9 Miles-11 Minutes to Main ScENIC RouTE) (Omits SCENIC ROUTE from Intersection of Bull Street and Colonial Drive to Intersection of Confederate A venue and Main Street.) 'This route is planned especially to provide a tour including Columbia College and Lutheran Theological Southern Seminary, two denominational educational institutions located in Eau Claire which, though a separate town, is generally thought of as a part of Columbia, and often referred to as North Columbia. START-INTERSECTION OF BULL STREET AND CO­ LONIAL DRIVE- Proceed in a General Northerly Direction Two Miles on Colonial Drive to Columbia College Drive. About a hundred yards from Bull Street the route crosses the Columbia city limits. TURN LEFT AT COLUMBIA COLLEGE DRIVE- Proceed Northwest on Columbia College Drive Two Blocks to Main Street. On the right side of these two blocks of Columbia College Drive is Co-

---=- .::.._ __ /' 'c . - ~...:.:::;:--·~-- --~-<7'- ~---~ =?''-v,=:;:r r ...--7 . . . - j

COLUMBIA COLLEGE Drawn by C. Hardy Oliver

lumbia College, a Methodist college for girls. This school was chartered in 18 5 4 as- Columbia Female College, and opened in Columbia in 18 5 9 in the building on the south side of Hampton Street, between Pickens and Henderson streets, since 1923 occupied by Columbia Bible College. Colum­ bia Female College was closed in 1865 and, because of post-war economic conditions, was not reopened until 1873. The school has been in continuous

[ 74] SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 75 operation since that time. Having outgrown the first quarters, it was mc,vcd to Eau Claire in 190 5 and at that time officially renamed Columbia College. Since 193 8 it has been a member of the Southern Association of Colleges and Secondary Schools. TURN LEFT AT MAIN STREET- Proceed Southwest and Later South on Main Street to Elmwood Avenue. The small wooden church on the right side of Main Street, one block from Columbia College Drive, is St. Paul's Baptist Church, a Negro church. The large brick structure two blocks beyond, on the same side of the street, is Eau Claire Baptist Church. Just beyond Eau Claire Baptist Church is the Lutheran Theological South­ ern Seminary. It was authorized by the Synod of South Carolina in 1830, opened in Lexington, South Carolina in 1831 and, after several changes in location, was moved in I 911 to this site in Eau Claire. This seminary is now owned and operated by six Southern synods of the United Lutheran Church in America. Across from the seminary is Hyatt Park School, an elementary and junior high school in the Columbia public school system, which includes schools beyond Columbia's corporate lin1its, since the school district comprises a larger area than the city. The school was named in honor of F. H. Hyatt, who started developn1ent of this section, which he nan1ed Hyatt Park. He gave the land on which the school stands.

LUTIIERAN THEOLOGICAL SOUTHERN SEMINARY Drawn hy R. E. Fulmer A few blocks beyond, branching northwest fron1 Main Street, is Monticello Road, S. C. Route 21 5 .- On the southwest corner of this intersection is the Eau Claire Legion Hut, called Hyatt Park Community Hut, erected in 1941. 76 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Side roads, about a mile and a mile and a quarter respectively from Main Street, lead west from Monticello Road to the Columbia Country Club and Ridgewood Tuberculosis Camp. The Columbia Country Club was established in 1904 as Ridgewood Coun­ try Club which was reorganized and renamed in 1945. This is the city's oldest country club. In addition to golf links and tennis courts it has an outdoor swimming pool. Ridgewood Tuberculosis Camp, operated under the Richland Anti-Tu­ berculosis Association, was founded by the Daughters of the Holy Cross of Trinity Episcopal Church, May, 1913. However, before it was actually opened in 1914, an appropriation from Richland County supplemented their contribution. It is now supported by the county, the City of Columbia, and public subscription. Many of its twenty cottages, some for white and some for Negro patients, were given by individuals or organizations. It is equipped to care for seventy-eight patients. As the route continues south on Main Street through Eau Claire, it crosses the Columbia city limits just before reaching the Seaboard Air Line Railway underpass. To the right at this point is Earlewood Park, one of Columbia's city parks, named in honor of F. S. Earle, a former mayor. This loop rejoins the main SCENIC ROUTE at intersection of Main Street and Confederate Avenue. (Refer to page 49.) Lake Murray Loop

(33 Miles-I Hour, 15 Minutes)

ONE of the points of interest which no one visiting Columbia should fail to see is Lake Mur­ ray, created by Dreher Shoals Dam, which was at the date of its completion in 193 O, the largest high earthen dam ever constructed. The dam can be approached from Colun1bia via U. S. Route 76 and S. C. Route 60, through Irmo, or via U. S. Route l and S. C. Route 6, through Lexington. The most picturesque trip is to approach SOUTH CAROLINA PINES it by the former route and re­ Drawn by Elizabeth W kite turn to Columbia by the latter.

U. S. Route 76 proceeds north on Main Street a mile and a half from the State House and then turns left into River Drive. This was the road by which Union troops under command of General Sherman entered Co­ lumbia, February 17, 1865. Four blocks out River Drive a granite boulder has been placed marking the site where Mayor Thomas J. Goodwyn sur­ rendered the city. Camp Fornance, a demobilization center during the Spanish-American War, was located in this section.

About a mile and a half beyond are the Columbia Canal and Broad River. To the right from the bridge spanning them can be seen the locks at the northern end of the canal, the ·southern end of which is at the Congaree River bridge at the foot of Gervais Street in Colun1bia. Marker W-8 tells of the history of BROAD RIVER:

[ 77] 78 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

EARLY BOUNDARY BETWEEN CHEROKEE AND CATAWBA INDIANS. NAME FIRST APPLIED ABOUT 1745. FAUST'S FORD, 2 MI. ABOVE, USED IN REVOLUTION. FIRST BRIDGE OPENED 182 9, BURNED 1865 TO DELAY SHERMAN'S ARMY WHICH CROSSED ON PONTOON BRIDGES DOWNSTREAM. BRIDGE REBUILT 1867, BURNED 1925. CONCRETE BRIDGE COMPLETED 1930.

Sherman's troops had shelled Columbia the day before from across the Congaree River, and proceeding up its west bank had crossed the Saluda River and advanced to this point. On the left, a half mile from the bridge, is Riverside Country Club, es­ tablished in 1941. The club's facilities include an eighteen-hole golf course. Three state institutions are passed on this road: six and a half miles from Columbia is the John G. Richards Industrial School (South Carolina Negro Boys' Reformatory), about seven and a half miles out th~ Women's Peni­ tentiary, and not quite a half mile farther, the South Carolina Industrial School for Girls. Just beyond the last of these institutions is Harbison State Forest which was purchased by the South Carolina State Commission of Forestry in 1945 for the demonstration of approved forest practices in the growing and harvesting of timber. The road to the dam leaves U. S. Route 76 and joins S. C. Route 60 about seven miles west of Broad River. It passes the Harbison Agricultural and Industrial Institute, an endowed college for Negroes, established in Abbeville, South Carolina, in 1882 and moved to this location in 1910. A few yards beyond it enters Lexington County, crossing the Columbia, Newberry and Laurens Railroad at Irmo, and proceeds over wooded hills. Approaching the dam the road passes through a stone gateway on which are two tablets erected by the State Highway Commission of South Carolina. The one on the right tells of LAKE MURRAY:

SO NAMED BY SPECIAL ACT OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF SOUTH CAROLINA APRIL 6, 1927 IN HONOR OF . WILLIAM SPENCER MURRAY WHO PROJECTED AND AS CHIEF ENGINEER BUILT THIS GREAT DAM AND ASSOCIATED HYDRO-ELECTRIC WORKS SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 79

The tablet on the left records information concerning LAKE MURRAY DEVELOPMENT:

CONSTRUCTION STARTED CONSTRUCTION COMPLETED

SEPTEMBER 1927 SEPTEMBER 1930

THE DAM KIND ...... EARTH VOLUME ...... 11 MILLION CU. YDS. HEIGHT ...... • . • 212 FT. LENGTH ...... 7,838 FT. BASE WIDTH ...... 1,150 FT.

THE LAKE AREA • • • • • . . . . 78 SQ. MI. SHORE LINE. 520 MI. LENGTH . . • . • . • . . . 41 MI. MAXIMUM WIDTH ...... 14 MI.

THE POWER STATION INITIAL CAPACITY • • • ...... 200,000 H.P. ULTIMATE CAPACITY ...... 300,000 H.P. ANNUAL POWER OUTPUT ...... 360 MILLION KW-HR.

AT DATE OF COMPLETION THE LARGEST HIGH EARTHEN DAM EVER CONSTRUCTED AND THE LARGEST ARTIFICIAL POWER RESERVOIR IN THE UNITED STATES

LEXINGTON WATER POWER COMPANY . . .. OWNER MURRAY AND FLOOD . . . . . ENGINEERS. IN CHARGE W. S. BARSTO\V AND CO., INC. GENERAL CONTRACTOR THE ARUNDEL CORPORATION CONTRACTOR FOR THE DAM ALBERT S. CRANE ...... CONSUL TING ENGINEER

The shores of Lake Murray have proved a popular location for country homes. Here boating and fishing may be enjoyed during every month of the year. Continue across the Dam on S. C. Route 6 into the Town of Lexington, Turning Left at its Main Street into U. S. Route 1, Which Leads East toward Columbia. (Note: If the tourist does not object to dirt roads another suggested route to Columbia is to continue south on S. C. Route 6 for 5.4 miles from Lex­ ington to S. C. Route 602 and turn left at S. C. Route 602, Platt Springs 80 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Road; proceed east 11 miles on S. C. Route 602 to U. S. Route 21-; turn left at U. S. Route 21 and proceed north on U. S. Route 21, rejoining the Lake Murray Loop where U. S. Route 21 and U. S. Route 1 converge. This route passes by the road which leads to the Y. M. C. A. Camp, a few miles south of Lexington, through Red Bank, and by the north entrance to the Co­ lumbia Army Air Base.) Just before reaching Columbia, U. S. Route 1 passes through West Colum­ bia, a suburb which until 1938 was called New Brookland. The city and county boundary line at the center of the Congaree River is clearly indicated by a sign on the bridge. Gervais Street leads into Columbia from the bridge, near the east end of which is market S-7 telling of CONGAREE RIVER BRIDGES: THIS RlVER TOOK ITS _NAME ,FROM THE CONGAREE IND I ANS, A .SIOUAN TRI-BE WHICH. OCCUPIED THE VALLEY UNTIL THE· YAMASEE WAR 1715. FIRST WOODEN BRIDGE, COMPLETED 1827, WAS. BURNED TO DELAY THE ADVANCE OF SHERMAN'S ·ARM:Y , 1865. REBUILT 1870. CONCRETE BRIDGE COMPLETED 1927.

A few yards beyond, marker S-6 records information regarding the CO-

LUMBIA CAN~:r<:. 1 COMPLETED 1824. IMPORTANT LINK IN THE SYSTEM OF WATERWAYS TRANSPORTING FREIGHT BETWEEN THE UP COUNTRY AND CI-iARLESTON. SUPPLANTED BY RAILROADS FOR TRANSPORTATION AFTER 1850. LEASED TO CONFEDERATE GOVERNMENT TO RUN POWDER WORKS. ENLARGED 1880~95 AND SINCE SOLD TO SUCCESSIVE ELECTRIC POWER COMPANIES. The south end of the canal is visible across the road north of the marker. In 1865 Thomas' Battery was erected here for the defense of Columbia. The Confederate Government operated an important armory on the Congaree just below the bridge. Near the east bank of the Columbia Canal is the plant of Columbia Mills Co., which has the distinction of being the first cotton mill operated by elec­ tricity "generated at the wheels and transmitted to motors in the mill". This mill is often called the Columbia Duck Mill, since its principal manufacture is duck. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 81

A block farther east, o_n the _same sid~ _of Ge~vais S.treet, is the Columbia Children's Clinic. In addition to the medical services administered through the clinic its program include~ a :kin:der,IDJ-rt~n, supervised playground and recreation center.

On the same side of Gervais Street, in the next block east of the clinic, a HISTORI~ PRINTING PLANT AND WAREHOUSE is pointed out by marker S-5: ERECTED- 1864 BY EV ANS & COGSWELL WHO REFUGEED FROM CHARLESTON AND C O N T I N U E D H E R E AS O F F I C I A L PRINTERS- AND LITHOGRAPHERS FOR THf Cd:NFEDERACY. PARTIALLY BURNED • ; \ ";' • r • ; BY UN I'O N TROOPS . 1865~ LATER PURCHASED BY STATE. USED AS STATE DISPENSARY WAREHOUSE 1895-1907.

Part of this building has housed the United States Emergency Crop and Feed Loan Office, a unit of the Farm Credit Administration, since its removal to Columbia in 193 5. A few blocks farther, on the opposite side of the street, SITE OF WAY- SIDE HOSPITAL is pointed out by marker S-4:

ESTABLISHED MARCH 1 0, 1 8 6 2 BY A GROUP OF COLUMBIA WOMEN TO CARE FOR SICK AND WOUNDED CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS. SUPPORTED BY VOLUNTARY CONTRIBUTIONS. ABOUT 7 5,0 0 0 MEN WERE CARED FOR BEFORE THE HOSPITAL WAS CLOSED FEBRUARY 1 5, 1 8 6 5. "FROM THIS LITTLE NUCLEUS SPREAD THE GRAND SYSTEM OF WAYSIDE HOSPITALS."

Continuing East on Gervais Street Past the Seaboard Air Line Rail­ way Passenger Station and the Curb Market, the Tour Ends at the Corner of Main and Gervais Streets in Front of the North Entrance of the State House. Across the Congaree

ANYONE interested in South Carolina history will want to cross the Con­ garee River and visit the site of Granby which was located at the west landing of Friday's Ferry. In 1929 the Columbia Committee of The National Society of Colonial Dames of America in the State of South Carolina* erected a marker pointing out the location of this town. The marker records the following: SITE OF GRANBY LAID OUT IN 1735 SEAT OF LEXINGTON CO. 1785-1798 SEAT OF LEXINGTON DIST. 1804-18-t VISITED BY GEORGE WASHINGTON 1791. Robert Mills in his Statistics of South Carolina wrote in 1826: "Granby • • • was once a flourishing town, where much business was done previous to the establishment of Columbia; since which it has declined, and is now nearly deserted. Its insalubrity was another cause of its decline. Had it been located at the junction of the Saluda it would have been still in existence, and probably made the seat of government; this spot being equally healthy with that on which Columbia is situated.,, The Granby marker is erected about a half mile from the town of Cayce on the State Road, which was built by the Board of Public Works of South Carolina between 1820 and 1830. To reach this interesting site take S. C. Route 2, since 1938 called the Robert E. Lee Memorial Highway, through West Columbia to Cayce. Continue to the Cayce railroad station. Cross the railroad tracks and follow the second dirt road to the right; proceed one block and turn left; then one block beyond turn right. Take the left fork of the road not far from the last turn. About two hundred yards to the left of this point are CAYCE HousE, ABOUT 1925 Drawn hy Caroline Guignard

* Formerly called Columbia Committee South Carolina Society Colonial Dames of America. t Not yet determined whether 1820 or 1821 is the correct date. [ 82] SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 83 the ruins of the Cayce House, built about 17 6 5, but not called by this name until many years after the Revolution when it came into the possession of the Cayce family, for whom the town is also named. The marker in f rant of the Cayce House, "Erected by William Capers Chapter Daughters of the American Revolution, Columbia, S. C., May 15, 1925," bears the fol­ lowing inscription:

IN 1775 THE BUILDING UPON THE GROUND ADJACENT HERETO WAS USED AS A STORE. UPON THE FALL OF CHARLES TOWN IN 1780 THE BRITISH SEIZED THE STORE, FORTIFIED IT, AND ESTABLISHED HERE "THE POST AT THE CONGAREES". ATTACKED FEB. 19, 1781, BY GEN. SUMTER, WHO ON THE 2lsT, DESTROYED THE MAGAZINE AND SUPPLIES IN SIGHT OF RAWDON'S ARMY ACROSS THE RIVER, HE HAVING COME FROM CAMDEN TO RELIEVE THE POST. CAPTURED BY LEE, MAY 15, 1781 REOCCUPIED BY RAWDON, JULY 1, 1781 REOCCUPIED BY GREENE, JULY 4, 1781 The "shell" of the Cayce House is practically all that remains of the former historic town of Granby. There are a few old graves enclosed in a fence in a field west of the Granby marker, and also an old cemetery be­ tween the marker and the river. A concrete wharf on the river bank recalls memories of river shipping from the time of Friday's Ferry to 1918. If the tourist is not averse to dirt roads a suggested drive continues south on this road to its intersection with U. S. Route 21, at the boundary line between Lexington and Calhoun counties. The road follows the river and passes many beautiful spots. At the county boundary line the South Carolina Daughters of the American Colonists erected, in 1941, a marker which reads as follows: THE REVEREND CHRISTIAN THEUS THREE-FOURTHS OF A MILE NORTH IS THE GRAVE OF THE REVEREND CHRISTIAN THEUS, A NATIVE OF SWITZERLAND, THE PASTOR OF THE REFORMED LUTHERAN CHURCH OF THE CONGAREES, SAXE-GOTHA TOWNSHIP, 1739-1789, AND THE TEACHER OF THE LOCAL SCHOOL. HIS GRAVE IS NEAR THE SITE OF HIS CHURCH. The Reverend Christian Theus was the first minister of the Gospel in this section of South Carolina. In 19 3 9 the South Carolina Chapter Daughters of the American Colonists marked his grave. 84 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Turn right at the county line, almost a "U" turn, into U. S. Route 21 and return to Columbia via the paved road to complete a round trip of twenty-three miles. About eight and one-quarter miles from the Calhoun County line S. C. Route 215 enters U. S. Route 21. The Columbia Army Air Base is located on S. C. Route 2 I 5 two miles west from this junction. This base was estab­ lished in 194 I, and specialized in training bombardment units. It was one of several Air Force combat training fields in this section during World War II. No tour of it is included here because of visiting restrictions. Another interesting landmark across the Congaree is the ruins of Saluda Factory, which was located on the Saluda River, a short distance west of its convergence with the Broad River to form the Congaree. This factory was built in I 832 and described in 1836 as "a three-story factory of granite". Cotton and woolen goods and cotton yarn were manu­ factured at first by slave labo'r, later suppbnted by white. Sherman's troops crossed the Saluda Riv~r ~t! this point in 1865 and burned the factory and the bridge which was a little below it. After the war the factory was rebuilt as a "substantial frame structure on a base of granite". It was destroyed by fire again in 18 86, and has never been rebuilt. All that is left of this historic old factory, which ran for over fifty years during trying times, are its granite foundations, and the now useless rush of waters through~its spillways. This site is somewhat inaccessible. To reach it follow U. S. Route 1 west from the State House. After crossing the Congaree River Bridge turn into the first road on the right, S. C. Route 43. Continue on S. C. Route 43 for 1. 5 miles to a cross road and turn right and proceed seven-tenths of a mile to a fork in the road. Turn right at the fork and drive one­ tenth of a mile-as far as the road is passable for motor transportation-_- to an open space on the crest of a hill. Paths lead down the hill to the ruins of the factory. Huge granite boulders along the way add to the beauty of the wooded hillside. Its topography suggests the Carolina mountains, while the sand beach on the river's bank, about a quarter-mile below, suggests the coast. There is a beauty and peace£ ulness here difficult to describe. Its appeal will be to the lover of out-of-doors as well as to those interested in the his­ toric past. It has long been a favorite picnic place for Columbians and, though not more than fifteen minutes ride from the State House, the temptation to linger and enjoy the charm of this place is too great not to allow a whole morning or afternoon for the trip. Historical Markers in Lower Richland County

THE portion of Richland County southeast of Columbia is often spoken of as Lower Richland County. One of the old roads through this section was the Bluff Road, S. C. Route 48. Marker U-1, erected near the State Fair Grounds, records interesting his­ tory regarding FRp:t4.Y'S FERRY (OR EAST GRANBY). (Refer to page 66 for inscription~) Marker U-2, erected on this. road where it crosses Mill Creek, records some . . . of the history of EARLY RICHLAND COUNTY SETTLEMENTS: FIRST SETTLEMENTS MADE ABOUT 1740 ON ' · ' ·1 I'' ' · ·,·, i' ' ' THIS CREEK,' ORIGINALLY CALL~D RAr°FORD'S, NOW MILL CRE1ti:· : If6WELVS'/ FEkify ACROSS 0 coNGAREE RivEi nElthVcREEK's M6bTH wAs USED 1756 THROUGrf '. THE REVOLUTION. JOHN PEARSON (174:J_:jg'1~{-j~RN NEAR HERE WAS FIRST KNOWN WHITE CHILD BORN IN BOUNDS OF PRESENT COUNTY. Markers have been erected at three towns in this section. Marker Q-3 at GADSDEN, twenty-one miles from Columbia, on S. C. Route 48, states that this town was NAMED IN HONOR OF JAMES GADSDEN PRESIDENT OF THE L O U I S VI L L E, CINCINNATI AND CHARLESTON RAILROAD. STATION BUILT HERE 1840 WAS THE FIRST RAILROAD STATION IN RICHLAND COUNTY. A STAGE LINE WAS OPERATED TO COLUMBIA UNTIL 1842 AND TO CAMDEN -UNTIL 1848. Marker Q-2 is at HOPKINS, which·· is located about twelve and three- .' ' quarter miles f ram Columbia on a county road a short distance between S. C. Route 48 and U. S. Route 76. The inscrjption on this marker reads: LAND GRANTED TO JNO. HOPKINS 1765. MINERVA ACADEMY LOCATED HERE 1 8 0 2 - 3 4. OLD PLANTATIONS NEARBY: CA BIN BRANCH (HOPKINS, CHAPPELL); ELM-SAY_ANNAH (ADAMS); LIVE OAK (GOV. J. H_. _ADAMS); GREENFIELD (GOODWYN, HOWELL); WAVERING PLACE (TUCKER, HOPKINS, HAYNE); GROVEWOOD (WESTON).

[ 85] 86 A GUIDE TO COLUMBIA

Marker Q-1 at HORRELL HILL, about thirteen and one-quarter miles from Columbia, on U. S. Route 76, records that 300 YARDS NORTH IS THE SITE OF THE RI C H LAND COUNTY COURT HOUSE BUILT ABOUT 1 7 9 4; ABANDONED WHEN COUNTY C O U RT S W E R E A B O L I S H E D . 1 7 9 8. CORN WAS GROUND IN 1781 FOR SUMTER'S ARMY AT JOH~. MARSHALL'S MILL, ON CEDAR CREEK, ¼ MI. EAST. THERE HAS BEEN A MILL ON THIS CREEK SINCE THE REVOLUTION. Also at Horrell Hill, on U. S. Route 7 6, is marker W-3 entitled CON­ GAREE BAPTIST CHURCH:

A FEW MILES SOUTH WAS THEt SITE OF ORIGINAL CONGAREE BAPTIST CHURCH, ORGANIZED 1766 WITH THE ,'I' REV. JOSEPH REESE AS... PASTOR. PROBABLY FIRST CHURCH IN BOUNDS 0 F PRESENT RICHLAND COUNTY. SINCE 1 8 0 0 LOCATED ON TOM'S CREEK 22 MILES SOUTH OF COLUMBIA. This church is now known as Fork Church.

Two other markers erected farther east on the same highway record more facts in connection with this section. Marker W-2 points out ANTE BEL­ LUM PLANTATIONS:

AMONG THE EARLY RICHLAND COUNTY PLANTATIONS BETWEEN THE WATEREE RIVER AND COLUMBIA WERE: DEER POND AND KENSINGTON (SINGLETON); G O O D WI L L ( H U G E R, HEYWARD); NUT SHELL (BYNUM, HEYWARD); THE RAFT AND IVJIDDLEBVRG (CLARKSON).

Marker W-1, erected at the county boundary line, the Wateree River, tells of the WATEREE RIVER FERRIES: RIVER TOOK ITS NAME FROM WATEREE I N D I A N S, A S I O U A N TRIBE WHICH OCCUPIED THE VALLEY UNTIL ABOUT 1715. NEAR THIS SITE WAS SIMMONS' U P P ER FE RR Y U SE D DURING THE REVOLUTION; LATER CALLED BRISBANE'S, THEN GARNER'S FERRY. USED UNTIL BRIDGE COMPLETED 1922. SOUTH CAROLINA'S CAPITAL CITY 87

In 1934 the Columbia Committee of The National Society of Colonial Dames of America in the State of South Carolina* placed a granite boulder marker about twenty-three miles east of Columbia near the intersection of U. S. Route 76 and S. C. Route 26, at the old McCord's Ferry Road crossing of U. S. Route 76. Inscription on this marker records that

THIS ROAD FROM McCORD'S FERRY TO FISHING CREEK WAS LAID OUT BY ACT OF JULY 2, 1766

ORIGINAL SITE OF ZION P. E. CHURCH

This was the first highway established by an Act of the General Assembly in the present bounds of Richland County. S. C. Route 26 follows generally the old McCord's Ferry Road, and is one of the most picturesque roads in the county, especially through the swamp from Eastover to Bates' Ferry Bridge, which replaced the old ferry.

;~ Formerly called Columbia Committee South Carolina Society Colonial Dames of America.

HIGHWAY AND HISTORICAL MARKER Drawn by Edward Mason Numerical Index to Historical Markers

1. Trinity Episcopal Church ...... • • . . . 31 2. Site of Parade Ground ...... 34 3. "Commissioners' Oak" ...... 34 4. "Chesnut Cottage" ...... 4 3 5. Original Site of Winthrop College ...... 44 6. Former Site of Columbia Theological Seminary ...... 44 7. Hampton-Preston House ...... 45 8. Site of Columbia Male Academy ...... 46 9. Ebenezer Lutheran Church ...... 47 1 O. Old State Fair Grounds ...... 49 11. Cemetery of the Columbia Hebrew Benovelent Society ...... 49 12. Governor's Mansion ...... 50 13. Site of Palmetto Iron Works ...... 51 14. Ladson Presbyterian Church ...... 52 15. DeBruhl-Marshall House ...... 53 16. Site of Blanding House ...... 54 17. First Baptist Church··:...... 54 18. Site of Gibbes House: ...... 55 19. Site of Carolina H·all ...... 56 20. Site of Columbia Female Academy ...... 57 21. Washington Street Methodist Church ...... 57 22. First Presbyterian Church ...... 58 23. Last Home of Wade Hampton ...... 59 24. Horry-Guignard House ...... 60 25. Birthplace of General Maxcy Gregg ...... , . . . 60 26. Entrance to Cemetery of the Columbia Hebrew Benevolent Society ...... 50 1-1. University of South Carolina ...... 33 1-2. South Carolina State Hospital ...... 47 Q-1. Horrell Hill ...... 86 Q-2. Hopkins ...... 85 Q-3. Gadsden ...... 85 S-1. Early Summer Resorts ...... 72 S-2. South Carolina Female Collegiate Institute ...... 73 S-3. St. Peter's Church and Ursuline Convent ...... 62 S-4. Site of Wayside Hospital ...... 81 S-5. Historic Printing Plant and Warehouse ...... 81 S-6. Columbia Canal ...... 80 S-7. Congaree River Bridges ...... 80 SL-1. Early Country Homes ...... 41 SL-2. Fisher's Mill on Gill Creek ...... 71 U-1. Friday's Ferry ( or East Granby) ...... 66 U-2. Early Richland County Settlements ...... 85 W-1. Wateree River Ferries ...... 86 W-2. Antebellum Plantations ...... 86 W-3. Congaree Baptist Church ...... 86 W-4. Woodlands and Millwood ...... 69 W-5. Camp Jackson ...... 68 W-6. Early Columbia Racetrack ...... 38 W-7. Sherman's Headquarters ...... 59 W-8. Broad River ...... 78

NOTE: With the approval of the South Carolina Historical Markers Survey their de­ sign for historical markers in this state has been used for these markers.

[ 88] · Alphabetical Index to Historical Markers

No. PAGE Antebellum Plantations ...... W-2 86 Birthplace of General Maxcy Gregg ...... 25 60 Broad River ...... W-8 78 Camp Jackson ...... W-5 68 Cayce House ...... 83 Cemetery of the Columbia Hebrew Benevolent Society ...... 1 1 49 "Chesnut Cottage" ...... 4 43 Columbia Canal ...... S-6 80 "C omm1ss1oners. . ' 0 a k" ...... 3 34 Congaree Baptist Church ...... W-3 86 Congaree River Bridges ...... S-7 80 DeBruhl-Marshall House ...... 15 53 Early Columbia Racetrack ...... W-6 38 Early Country Homes ...... SL-1 41 Early Richland County Settlements ...... U-2 85 Early Summer Resorts ; : ,_ ... ,_·_._ .· ...... S-1 72 Ebenezer Lutheran Church ...... 9 47 Entrance to Cemetery of the Columbia Hebrew Benevolent Society .. 26 50 First Baptist Church ...... 17 54

First Presbyterian Church ...... ✓ ••••• 22 58 Fisher's Mill on Gill Creek ...... SL-2 71 Former Site of Columbia Theological Seminary ...... 6 44 Friday's Ferry ( or East Granby) ...... U-1 66 Gadsden ...... Q-3 85 Governor's Mansion ...... 12 50 Hampton-Preston House ...... 7 45 Historic Printing Plant and Warehouse ...... S-5 8 1 Hopkins ...... Q-2 85 Horrell Hill ...... Q-1 86 Horry-Guignard House ...... 24 60 Ladson Presbyterian Church ...... 14 52 Last Home of Wade Hampton ...... 23 59 McCord's Ferry Road ...... 87 Old State Fair Grounds ...... 10 49 Original Site of Winthrop College ...... 5 44 St. Peter's Church and Ursuline Convent ...... S-3 62 Sherman's Headquarters ...... W-7 59 Site of Blanding House ...... 16 54 Site of Carolina Hall ...... ~ ...... 19 56 Site of City Hall ...... 63 Site of Columbia Female Academy ...... 20 57 Site of Columbia Male Academy ...... 8 46

[ 89] ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO HISTORICAL MARKERS-Continued

No. PAGE

Site of Gibbes House ...... 1 8 5 5 Site of Granby ...... 82 Site of Palmetto Iron Works ...... 13 51 Site of Parade Ground ...... 2 34 Site of Wayside Hospital ...... ' ...... S-4 81 South Carolina Female Collegiate Institute ...... , ... · ., · S--2 7 3 1 South Carolina State Hospital ...... • , 1-i' ·: - 47 Taylor Burying Ground ...... 46 The Reverend Christian Theus ...... 83 Trinity Episcopal Church ...... 1 3 1 University of South Carolina ...... 1-1 3 3 Washington Street Methodist Church ...... 2 1 5 7 Wateree River Ferries ...... W-1 86 Woodlands and Millwood ...... W-4 69

NOTE: Unless otherwise designated where inscription is quoted, markers were erected in 19 3 8 by the Columbia Sesquicentennial Commission of- 193 6.

INDEX TO OTHER INSCRIPTIONS QUOTED PAGE

Confederate Monument ·...... I 7 Doughboy Monument ...... 65 Lake Murray ...... 78 Lake Murray Development ...... 79 Monument to the South Carolina Women of the Confederacy ...... 2 1 Sesqui-Centennial State Park ...... 7 3