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NORTHWEST SYRAHwritten by MARGARETT WATERBURY

A BIG DEAL From the Applegate Valley in southern Oregon to eastern Washington’s Walla Walla Valley, has long been a beloved variety for growers seeking a full-bodied red grape that’s responsive to site conditions and thrives in a range of climates.

The Northwest’s cool climate, like that of Cristom in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, creates a versatile and complex Syrah with spicy and floral notes. Cristom grows its Syrah on the lower slopes of the Estate Vineyards where daytime heat accumulation is high and nights are cold, allowing the Syrah to both ripen and retain its acidity.

43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 92 5/30/19 5:44 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 93 5/30/19 5:44 AM THE EOLA-AMITY HILLS ARE INARGUABLY PINOT COUNTRY. YET SPEND A LITTLE TIME WITH CRISTOM VINEYARDS WINEMAKER TOM GERRIE, AND YOU’LL QUICKLY LEARN THAT PINOT ISN’T THE ONLY RED GRAPE IN TOWN. “Look, I bleed Pinot Noir,” laughs Tom. “But my second favorite? It’s Syrah.”

Tom Gerrie is part of a growing cohort of Northwest winemakers en- parcel that had once been a motocross track. In 2006, they planted their amored with this Rhône variety. From the Applegate Valley in southern first section to Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Viogner, naming it Mae’s Vine- Oregon to eastern Washington’s Walla Walla Valley, Syrah has long been yard after their daughter. a beloved variety for growers seeking a full-bodied red grape that’s respon- “Like Pinot Noir, Syrah is really good at showing a sense of place,” says sive to site conditions and thrives in a range of climates. Plantings in both Herb. “But unlike Pinot Noir, it can grow in a wide range of climates. In states continue to increase, and Northwest Syrahs are garnering national climates like ours, which are on the cooler edge for Syrah, it develops these attention. neat savory characteristics that make it conversational and can pair very Yet even as Northwest Syrah’s prominence has grown, it has remained an well with food.” underdog. If Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red grapes and Pinot Noir Four hours north in Portland, Oregon, Kate Norris at Southeast Wine Col- CLOCKWISE Charles Smith’s popular Jet City tasting room in Seattle showcases how the queen, Syrah might be the youngest prince—rich, unpredictable, se- lective www.sewinecollective.com is celebrating the 2019 release of her 2016 much the company has grown since his first K Vintner Syrah release in 2001. Associate Winemaker Wade Smith with Gloria and Stephen Reustle of Reustle Prayer Rock Vine- ductive, and maybe even a little bit raunchy. He’s sometimes overlooked, Gamine Syrah, made with fruit grown by Herb at that original he but shouldn’t be underestimated. Here’s what to know about this delicious- yards. Sarah Hedges Goedhart, Head Winemaker at Hedges Family Estate. Richard planted in 2006. “I’ve always been obsessed with Syrah,” says Kate. Funk, owner of Saviah Cellars in The Rocks District AVA. Owen Roe sources its grapes ly dark side of Oregon and Washington wine. So in 2013, her business partner Tom bought her a ton of Syrah from Mae’s from both Yakima Valley, Washington and Willamette Valley, Oregon.

SYRAH’S GLOBAL CONTEXT Vineyard as a surprise. The resulting wine was savory, mineral-driven, and distinctly old-world, right in line with Kate’s sensibilities. She’s bought Although the variety is now grown all over the world, France’s Rhône valley fruit from Herb every vintage since. “This 2016 vintage is the best I’ve ever is Syrah’s most famous home. Yet even there, the grape is something of a made,” says Kate. “It has so many layers, and an interesting delicate nature. chameleon. In northern Rhône regions like Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage it’s I’m really happy with it.” used to produce intense, powerful wines with a savory quality that often verges on gaminess. In other regions, it produces a lushly fruity table wine, WALLA WALLA and is often blended with other grapes like Grenache and Mourvédre to add weight to a final blend. In the Walla Walla Valley and elsewhere in Washington, Syrah is a big deal. Outside of France, the new world has enthusiastically embraced Syrah (or In 2018, it was the third most important red grape in Washington’s vintage, Shiraz, as it’s known in Australia). In California, Chile, Argentina, Australia, with 24,300 tons harvested. For context, Oregon’s 2017 Syrah harvest was and South Africa, Syrah often produces big, robust, inky wines with flavors just shy of 3,000 tons. of blackberry, spice, chocolate, and even coffee. Here in the Northwest, a Syrah loves the hot summer temperatures throughout Washington, but it’s varied topography and a creative winemaking spirit gives Syrah full rein to The Rocks District AVA where it makes its most remarkable wines. Just explore every facet of its character, from textured fruit and spice to savory, south of Walla Walla, this tiny 3,767 acre sub-AVA only achieved official smoky wines that mirror the finest expressions of the northern Rhône. recognition in 2015, but it’s quickly emerged as one of the most promising regions for Syrah not just in the Northwest, but the world. Straddling the SOUTHERN OREGON Oregon and Washington border, The Rocks District is distinguished by a Versatile Southern Oregon is home to several Syrah producers of note, deep bed of extremely rocky, gravelly soil created by millennia of erosion by including Cowhorn Vineyard www.cowhornwine.com Plaisance Ranch the Walla Walla river as it changed course across southeastern Washington www.plaisanceranch.com Troon www.troonvineyard.com Reustle Prayer and northeastern Oregon. Rock Vineyards www.reustlevineyards.com and Quady North www.quady- Here, Syrah takes on an unmistakably savory, saline, almost meaty quality north.com which was founded specifically to focus on Rhone varieties. that reminds many of the finest expressions of Syrah from Hermitage in the As a young winemaker, founder Herb Quady despaired at ever being able to northern Rhône. “Sometimes when I walk by a fermenter of Rocks District afford the multi-million-dollar investment required to start his own win- Syrah, it smells just like a delicatessen,” says Rich Funk, owner and wine- ery in California. But when he arrived in Southern Oregon in 2003 and maker at Saviah Cellars www.saviahcellars.com in Walla Walla, Washington. started working at Troon in the Applegate Valley, he saw an opportunity. “Smoked sea salt, cured and smoked meats, tapenade, it’s all there.” “I really like Rhône varieties, and I thought the Applegate could be a Those qualities are most evident in Saviah Cellars’ The Stone Speak Syrah, great place to get in, if not on the ground floor, near the ground floor,” a single vineyard bottling from the Funk Estate vineyard in the Rocks says Herb. He and his wife bought their property in 2005, a hundred-acre District. In the tasting room, it stops people in their tracks. “You can

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43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 94 5/30/19 5:44 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 95 5/30/19 5:44 AM OREGON SYRAH PICKS

CRISTOM VINEYARDS DIVISION WINE CO. SAVIAH CELLARS 2016 Estate Syrah $50 2016 Gamine Syrah $36 2016 The Stones Speak Syrah $55 Nominated for Best Oregon Winery Division Wine Co. co-founder Kate Founded in 2000, Saviah Cellars by The Wine Advocate in 2017, Norris’ personal label Gamine is all was named one of the top 100 win- Wine and Spirits Magazine. Cristom Vineyards has been making about high-acid, food-friendly wines eries by an estate Syrah since 2003, it is in an old-world style. Made from Rich Funk loves the meaty, smoky, produced entirely with Willamette Applegate Valley fruit from Quady savory quality of Syrah grown in The Valley fruit. The 2016 vintage North’s Mae’s Vineyard, the 2016 Rocks District, a new cross-border was co-fermented with about 4% Gamine Syrah is simultaneously sub-AVA in the Walla Walla AVA. The estate-grown Viogner, a traditional lush and transparent, with fig skin, Stones Speak is a single estate wine move that helps lift and lighten the spice, and a refreshing touch of from the Funk Estate Vineyard. www.saviahcellars.com naturally spicy aromatics of Syrah. acidity. www.divisionwineco.com www.cristomvineyards.com

TROON VINEYARD 2016 Côtes du Kubli G.S.M. $30 QUADY NORTH HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE 2014 Flagship Syrah $65 One of the pioneers of the Apple- 2016 Decendants Liégeois gate Valley, Troon Vineyard is in the Cult-favorite Quady North describes Dupont-Syrah $40 midst of a transition to biodynamic its philosophy as “pan-Rhônish,” Hedges Family Estate founders Tom winegrowing. Here, old-school wine- with a focus on minimally handled, Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois making techniques like foot treading cool-climate wines. The Flagship planted their first vineyard in and manual punch-downs are still in Syrah spotlights Mae’s Vineyard, a the Red Mountain AVA in 1989. use. This blend of Grenache, Syrah, LIVE-certified south-facing hillside In 2008, they made the leap to and Mourvédre gets its name from vineyard named after the founders’ biodynamic. Decendants Liégeois the Kubli bench above the Applegate eldest daughter. This age-worthy Dupont-Syrah is made from grapes River where Troon’s vineyards are wine is only made during excep- grown at Les Gosses Vineyard, and located. spent 19 months in a mix of new tional vintages, and has a dense, www.troonvineyard.com concentrated character. and used American and French oak. www.quadynorth.com www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

WASHINGTON SYRAH PICKS COWHORN VINEYARD OWEN ROE 2014 Syrah 8 $45 K VINTNERS Ex Umbris Syrah $21 This boutique biodynamic winery in 2016 Motor City Kitty Syrah $35 Made from grapes grown in the the Applegate Valley is known for a Named winemaker of the year by Yakima, Columbia, and Walla Walla concentrated, inky-dark, blue-fruited both Food and Wine and Wine valleys, Owen Roe’s Ex Umbris Syrah Syrah with layers of earth and spice. Enthusiast, it seems Charles Smith commemorates the 2002 vintage, Taking a cue from France, the Syrah made the right choice when he when a wildfire near the vineyard 8 is co-fermented with a touch of traded a career managing rock and interfered with the grape’s ripening Viogner, giving it an aromatic finish roll bands for one making wine. and produced a particularly unusual and rounded mouthfeel. Vinous K Vintners was his first winery, and wine. A short stay in neutral French called Cowhorn “the quality leader” when it opened in 2001, its very oak barrels keeps the focus on for Oregon Syrah. first release was a Syrah, showing the fruit. www.cowhornwine.com just how important this variety is www.owenroe.com to Smith. www.winesofsubstance.com

REUSTLE PRAYER ROCK àMAURICE LONG SHADOWS 2016 Syrah Reserve $42 2014 Estate Syrah “Fred” $45 2016 Sequel Syrah $60 Named Northwest Winery of This family-owned estate producer Founded by Washington State wine the Year in 2017 by Wine Press in the Walla Walla Valley was the luminary Allen Shoup, Long Shad- Northwest, Reustle Prayer Rock first registered sustainable winery ows brings the top winemakers from Vineyards grows Syrah along with in the state, and is known for its around the world to Washington to about a dozen other grape varieties light-handed, elegant, food-friendly work with their favorite grapes. Se- in the Umpqua Valley. Winemak- wines. Partner and Winemaker quel Syrah was made in partnership er Stephen Reustle strives for Anna Schafer is a rising star, one of with John Duval, the former chief balanced, low-alcohol, food-friendly the youngest ever named Top New winemaker at Penfolds Grange, wines. Their 2016 Syrah Reserve was Winemaker by Seattle Magazine. producers of Australia’s top Shiraz. recognized with a gold medal at the Look for bright red fruit and vibrant www.longshadows.com San Francisco Chronicle competition, floral tones among other awards. www.amaurice.com www.reustlevineyards.com

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43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 96 5/30/19 5:45 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 97 5/30/19 5:45 AM almost see them stop and think, ‘What’s going on here?’” laughs Rich. “That NEWLYVISIT REMODELED OUR was the first impression when I tasted a Rocks Syrah. I had never smelled a wine like this.” WINE CAVE! “These wines are singular,” says Rich. “I’ve worked with 30 blocks of Syrah from around the state, and we can’t get these textures, aromas, and flavors anywhere else. Really, there’s only so many places in the world you can grow this style of Syrah and have it consistently, year in and year out, be excep- tional in quality.”

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Syrah is usually associated with warmer regions than the Willamette Valley, but Cristom Vineyards www.cristomvineyards.com in the Eola-Amity AVA is enthusiastically exploring the outer reaches of Syrah’s cold tolerance. “We are among the pioneering wineries in the Willamette Valley for Syrah,” says Gerrie. After having success with Viogner, Cristom grafted a portion of its to Syrah in 2001, and made their first vintage in 2003. Gerrie says ripening Syrah in a climate as cool as the Willamette Valley can be tricky, but careful clone selection (and a series of exceptionally warm vintages) have helped overcome the challenge. 2017 “We love growing Syrah in a Pinot Noir climate, because you get a lot of Northwest the spice without jamminess or any kind of over-ripeness,” explains Gerrie. Winery of the Year “I think there is a real demand for cool climate Syrahs. They can be really 15 grown and produced on a 200 acre picturesque estate. N O R T H W E S T interesting, complex wines with very floral qualities and a balance between Come enjoy a sit-down wine and food pairing in our European-style wine cave. fruit and spice.” 15 minutes o I-5 in Roseburg, Oregon | ReustleVineyards.com | 541.459.6060 Cristom underscores that floral quality by co-fermenting approximately 4% Viogner with some of their Syrah bottlings, a traditional strategy in- spired by France that brings out lifted floral aromas and helps the wine retain a beautiful, brilliant color. “It’s almost an homage to the old Côte- Rôtie styles,” says Gerrie. “It adds this floral white honeysuckle component It’s the most beautiful in addition to the classic spiciness of the syrah.” coast in the world. AT THE TABLE ace it. Syrah’s big fruit and herb flavors pair beautifully with meat, and its full F body can stand up to flavorful marinades and sauces. Lamb is a home-run pairing, especially when grilled, but beef, pork, or even duck can also be excellent companions to a glass of Syrah. Particularly savory specimens of Syrah are great fun to pair with charcuterie like pate, salumi, or bresaola, which echo its meaty, salty character. “I like Syrah as a food pairing wine because it is so bold, and I like to use a lot of bold flavors,” says Althea Grey Potter, chef at Oui! Wine Bar and Restaurant at Southeast Wine Collective www.sewinecollective.com . “It pairs really well with dishes that have a lot of spices, or even some heat. Rising ten stories from the beach, the Inn At Spanish Head offers magnificent, I might do a harissa-spiced lamb with Syrah, and I like that neither the completely unobstructed views of the central Oregon Coast. All guest and meeting wine nor the dish will eclipse the other.” rooms are oceanfront with floor-to-ceiling windows that frame glorious sunsets, spectacular cloud formations and the ocean waves. Northwest wine lovers won’t be turning their back on Pinot Noir or Caber- net Sauvignon anytime soon. But if winemakers like these have anything to Some say you can actually see the curve of the earth from our penthouse restaurant say about it, we’ll soon be making room for local Syrah in the cellar. “The and bar, Fathoms. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner daily and our seasonal Sunday Northwest can also develop into a globally recognized region for Syrah,” Champagne Brunch. Complimentary valet parking is always available. says Gerrie. “That might sound ridiculous to Pinot Noir lovers, but I really Visit our website for Gift Certificates, unique lodging packages and a tour of our 4009 SW Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR believe that. There’s just so much opportunity for it here.” exceptional rooms. 800-452-8127 • SpanishHead.com

43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 98 5/30/19 5:45 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 99 5/30/19 5:45 AM Photography by Aubrie LeGault celebrating ten wonderful years the allison wonderland Recipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com Wagyu Steak Celebrating a decade in country. with Mushroom Tart RECIPE on page 102

august 30 & 31

two-night stay with special events

friday, august 30 saturday, august 31 Join us in celebrating sparkling wine reception tasting seminar with author karen macneil— our tenth anniversary the wine bible and local vintners wine dinner with author karen macneil— to benefit the nonprofit the wine bible and local vintners garden celebration A dinner for the decade—JORY’s Executive Sample a variety of food, wine, beer, and spirits while charities of Classic Chef Chris Smith prepares a four-course wine pairing enjoying the music of Concert Rock Violinist Aaron dinner that highlights local wines and marks our tenth Meyer and the Dancehall Days Band. Wines Auction. Cheers! anniversary serving Oregon Wine Country. tickets to individual saturday events reserve now are available for a limited time participating wineries contact denise seroyer at WINE PAIRING [email protected] or call alexana winery • anne amie vineyards • antica terra • archery summit • bergström wines 2015 Cristom – Syrah 503.476.0645 to learn more* (Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette brittan vineyards • cramoisi vineyard • cristom vineyards • domaine drouhin • natalie’s estate winery Valley, OR) native flora • ponzi vineyards • rain dance vineyards • rex hill • roco winery • soter vineyards mention this ad at time of booking and receive a complimentary bottle tresori vineyards • utopia vineyard • valley wine merchants • winderlea of oregon sparkling wine

the allison inn & spa | 2525 allison lane | newberg, or 97132 | theallison.com * Guests must be at least 21 years of age to stay or attend. 100 PortraitMagazine.com

43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 100 5/30/19 5:45 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 101 5/30/19 5:45 AM Wagyu Steak with Mushroom Tart recipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith, Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa

MUSHROOM TART 1 sheet puff pastry dough ¼ cup cream sherry 3 cups mushrooms, preferably a 1 Tbsp butter wild mix, chopped Salt to taste 1 shallot, minced Sherry vinegar to taste 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 egg, beaten 1 tsp fresh thyme, minced Cooking oil ½ tsp fresh sage, minced

Method Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until they begin to brown, if pan becomes dry add a little more oil to prevent mushrooms from burning. When mushrooms begin to brown Executive Chef Chris Smith, Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa add the shallots, garlic and herbs, sauté until aromatic and deglaze with cream sherry. Add Butter, and reduce sherry until almost dry. Season with salt and sherry vinegar to taste. Remove from heat and cool.

While mushrooms are cooling, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Remove your puff pastry from the Photography by Aubrie LeGault Beet Steak refrigerator and form shells. These can be any shape you desire, but the easiest method is to cut the dough in recipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith rectangles or squares and run a knife about 3/8 of an inch in from the edge to form two” L” shapes that don’t Recipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa quite connect at two corners. Invert the thin strips so that you form a smaller rectangle with raised sides and “knots at 2 corners where the dough overlaps. This will minimize the amount of wasted dough that you have. Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com INGREDIENTS Place shell forms on a parchment paper lined baking sheet and brush with beaten egg. Bake for about 15 3 large beets, washed minutes at 350 degrees. Remove and let cool. 2 cups orange juice Fill with cooked and cooled mushrooms and bake until warm when ready to eat. 2 cups white wine BEEF BUTTER 1 shallot, sliced 3 Tbsp rendered beef fat (should be able to source from an artisan butcher) 4 cloves garlic 3 Tbsp butter 1 bunch thyme Sea salt 1 Tbsp black peppercorns 1 tsp minced garlic 1 tsp salt Beet Water to cover Method Combine everything and beat together. Method In a deep baking dish combine all ingredients, cover with parch- SYRAH-HUCKLEBERRY JUS ment paper and aluminum foil and bake in oven for about 2 hours 2 cups Syrah Steak at 375 degrees, or until the tip of a knife can be inserted easily. 4 cups beef bone broth or stock RECIPE on page 102 Remove beets from cooking liquid, strain and reserve. Partially 2 Tbsp huckleberries cool beets, when easy to handle remove the skin by rubbing it off 2 tsp butter with a towel. Finish cooling the beets. Slice beets crosswise into Salt and pepper to taste 1.5 inch planks. (You should yield about 2 planks per beet) Method BEET-PEPPERCORN SAUCE Reduce Syrah to ½ cup. Reserved beet braising liquid – reduced to 1.5 cups Add beef broth and further reduce to ½ cup, add huckleberries. 2 cups Syrah Season to taste. And finish by whisking in butter. 1 Tbsp green pepper corns STEAK WITH MUSHROOM TART 1 Tbsp Butter (optional) Season your steaks with salt and black pepper. We recommend a fattier steak such as ribeye or a Wagyu style striploin to pair with Syrah as the fattiness will In a small pot combine Syrah and peppercorns, reduce to about ¼ help mellow out the tannins and create a more harmonious flavor pairing. cup, add reduced braising liquid and further reduce by half. Finish by whisking in butter if desired. Season with salt to taste and black WINE PAIRING On a hot wood or charcoal grill or well-seasoned cast iron pan, sear the steaks and cook to desired doneness. pepper to taste. 2014 Big Table Farm – Syrah Remove from heat and coat with beef butter. (Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon) Allow to rest for 5-7 minutes before slicing. Serving suggestions: Serve beet steaks with mashed or roasted While steaks are resting, finish cooking your mushroom tarts In a preheated oven at 375 degrees. potatoes and your favorite vegetables! Slice steaks and plate with tarts. Finish by drizzling the Syrah jus over the steaks.

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