COLO MBIAN BOA CARE GUIDE GENERAL INFORMATION

BY PHIL GOSS

This care sheet applies specifi cally to the Colombian boa constrictor, but can be applied to all localities and subspecies of Boa constrictor. Please conduct further research if keeping other subspecies. GENERAL INFORMATION

Boa Constrictor (Boa constrictor imperator)

The Colombian boa constrictor is the most widely kept boa constrictor in the pet industry (there are nine accepted subspecies of Boa constrictor, and many localities of some subspecies). Other common names include the common boa and red-tailed boa, although the true red-tailed boa is Boa constrictor constrictor, which is larger and found in countries including Suriname, Guyana, Peru and Brazil. There may be B. c. constrictor in southeastern Colombia, but these are rarely seen in the reptile world. Colombian boas have become popular due to being docile and having more “personality,” in that they seem to be more curious about their surroundings than some other snakes. Colombian boa constrictors make great pets, and they are available in a vast array of appealing color and pattern morphs. Proper care can be provided even by beginner hobbyists, but due to their potentially large size and lengthy life span, boas are best suited for moderate- and advanced-level keepers. With reptile health and wellness prioritized, this care sheet should help ensure quality keeping of the Colombian Boa Constrictor. GENERAL INFORMATION

Boa Constrictor Availability

Boa constrictors are readily available in the pet industry, and many breeders specialize in Colombian boa morphs. They have been bred in captivity for decades, and litters are born nearly all year. The majority of boa litters occur from May through August, so late summer and fall see the highest availability of babies. Sometimes they can be found in exotic shops or reptile shops online.

Prices vary greatly, depending on the type of boa constrictor you want, and where you purchase it. Wild-phase or normal-colored boas can sometimes be purchased for $60 to $75 at reptile shows, shed skin, possible respiratory infection (auditory or $150 to $200 in retail stores. Low-color breathing can be a sign of this) or spinal kinks or hypomelanistic (reduced black pigment) boas may deformities. be as low as $75 at reptile shows, but new and Check for snake mites, which are small, black, “designer” morphs can cost in excess of $5,000. parasites that resemble ticks.

Be sue to purchase your boa from a reputable source. Look for active snakes lacking any retained GENERAL INFORMATION

Boa Constrictor Size

Female Colombian boa constrictors may reach 10 feet in length, though this is rare for B. c. imperator, and the average adult size for females is usually 6 to 8 feet. Males are smaller, usually 5 to 7 feet in length. Some Central American boa constrictors remain much smaller—if you would like a smaller boa constrictor, look into Central American locality types, such as those from Belize, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Smaller subspecies include Boa c. longicauda and B. c. sabogae, though keep in mind that these localities and subspecies have not been bred in captivity as long as the Colombian boa, so they may not be as docile and could require extra attention to calm them down.

Boa Constrictor Life Span

Boas are very long-lived reptiles. There are documented cases of captive boas living longer than 40 years; however, the average captive life span is 20 to 30 years. Please consider this carefully before bringing a boa home. HOUSING

Boa Constrictor Housing

Many caging options are available for boa constrictors. Reptile terrariums can be used, but reptile-specifi c plastic enclosures made from high- quality plastics that maintain proper humidity are much more suitable for boas than anything else. A rack system is something to consider should you advance into breeding boas, or if you plan to have many boas living with you. Custom enclosures are another option.

Young boa constrictors have simple needs; a large, beautifully decorated cage is not the best choice for them. While a new boa is acclimating, simple housing is preferred, and the enclosure should be prepared prior to your new boa’s arrival home. An appropriate fi rst cage for a baby boa would be no larger than 30 inches long by 12 inches wide, in which it will feel very secure. HOUSING

Naturally, as the young boa grows, a larger cage will be required. Boa constrictors are terrestrial and fl oor space is more important than height. Young boas may climb, but do so much less as they grow. Typical full-grown adult boas should be housed in cages no smaller than 4 feet long by 2 feet wide (with larger-than-average snakes in larger enclosures).

A hide box/shelter should be provided, which will allow the boa to feel safe and secure. There are many commercially manufactured types available for snake habitat products. The Zilla Habba Hut is one good option for reptile hides. Offer two hides, one on the warm side of the enclosure and one on the cool side. A stressed You may also provide rocks, sticks or other baby boa may stay on one side of the cage if only one structures, but be sure they are positioned securely hide is provided, which may discourage the snake from and free of parasites. A variety of reptile habitat thermoregulating properly. accessories are available at stores or online. LIGHT & TEMP LIGHT Boa Constrictor Snake Lighting and Temperature & Boas control their body temperature through TEMP Belly heat can be provided using various devices. thermoregulation, and the cage should have a Under-tank heaters are the most readily available, warm side and a cool side. This is very important! such as a Zilla heat pad. Heat cable and heat tape Do not place the heat source in the center of the are other possibilities. Any heating device should cage, place it at one end. Then if the boa gets too be controlled with a proportional thermostat or warm, it will move toward the cooler side, and if it rheostat, such as the Zilla heat and temperature is too cool, it will move to the warmer side. That’s controller. Some heat sources, especially heat tape, thermoregulation! can get too hot for some enclosures, and they must

The temperatures in the cool end your boa cage be regulated not just for the boa’s safety, but yours, should not drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. too. If using these devices, especially if you’re The warm side should be 85 degrees, with a hot using a glass enclosure such as an aquarium, be spot of 90 degrees provided by an under-cage sure some ventilation is provided around the heat heating device that will provide “belly heat.” Boa source. If heat builds up, it can crack the bottom constrictors greatly prefer this, so they can coil over of a glass tank, or cause other caging materials to the rising heat. melt or overheat. LIGHT & TEMP LIGHT &TEMP

Overhead lighting is not usually needed. If an Terra natural daylight reptile lamp, can be used overhead bulb is used, it should be placed directly to provide a photoperiod (day/night cycle) and over the source of the belly heat. Be sure to check to better observe your boa. Full-spectrum bulbs the temperature of your hot spot while the bulb is with UVB like the Solar Glo all in one reptile lamp, on. If the belly heat being provided from the under- may provide physical and physiological benefi ts enclosure device is not warm enough, overhead to boas, but this has not been proven. UVB lighting lighting will assist in maintaining a proper hot spot, is not needed for the proper care of boas, and the but overhead lighting or an overhead heating vast majority of boa keepers do not use it. Still, it device alone is not recommended for boas. won’t harm your boa, so feel free to provide it just in case there is some benefi t. A low-wattage fl uorescent bulb, such as the Exo in case there is some benefi t.

Boa Constrictor Snake Substrate SUBSTRATE

Boas can be kept on several types of substrate. Newspaper, aspen, white or brown butcher/ wrapping paper, and cage carpet are the most often used substrates. Fir and cypress barks are also acceptable but not often used by breeders. If using cypress bark or mulch, be sure it does not become too damp as it holds humidity very well. When using aspen bedding or carpet, the cage can be spot cleaned often, with a full change occurring as needed. If using paper, the entire substrate should be changed each time cage SUBS TRATE FOOD

cleaning occurs.

Boa Constrictor Food temperatures and do not excessively handle boas after meals. It is very important to allow your new boa to acclimate to its new surroundings before feeding. Never feed a new boa constrictor a meal that is Never attempt to feed a new boa for at least fi ve larger than the snake’s mid-body girth. It should days after you bring it home. I assure you your new never exhibit a bulge after eating. Especially in boa will be fi ne without food during this time. If you young boas, a meal that is too large may lead to feed it too soon, while it may still be stressed from regurgitation. An established boa will handle a the move to your home, the snake may regurgitate. meal resulting in a small bulge just fi ne. If this occurs, be sure your temperatures are correct, and do not attempt to feed the boa again for two weeks. The most common causes of regurgitation are improper temperature and stress from being handled, so be sure you provide proper cage FOOD

Pet boa constrictors should be fed only quality mice or frozen/thawed prey. If you purchase one that is eating rats. They need no additional food or supplementation. Be live rodents, it will often take frozen/thawed prey that sure you buy your rodents from a good source to prevent is presented from a pair of tongs. Pre-killed rodents are disease and mites. Boas 2 years old and younger should always best, whether they are frozen/thawed or freshly be fed one appropriately sized rodent every seven to killed, because live rodents may harm your boa. If your 10 days. Excessive feeding may lead to regurgitation, snake does not kill its prey (boas will not eat if they are improper growth, and even premature death. Once boas not hungry or are kept under improper conditions), the near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed every 10 rodent may bite or even kill your boa. Even if the boa does to 14 days. It is okay to feed your boa more or less often, constrict its prey, the rodent may bite before it is killed. but be sure to monitor weight so the boa does not become Never leave your boa unattended with live rodents. obese or underweight.

Most boa constrictors available as pets will be eating HUMIDITY

Boa Constrictor Water and Humidity

A water bowl is a necessity. This allows your boa a place to drink and helps provide the proper humidity for your boa. The humidity in the cage should be 60 to 70 percent; use a hygrometer (humidity gauge) to track the percentage.

Water must always be clean and should be changed as needed and the bowl cleaned. Some boa constrictors will defecate or urinate in the water, which must be cleaned immediately if this occurs. Be sure to scrub and rinse the bowl, using an antibacterial dish soap and hot water. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, and run the water bowl through your dishwasher monthly if possible. Disposable forms of water bowls, such as deli cups, are another option.

Young boas will often soak before or during a shed cycle. This aids in shedding their skin, but usually occurs only when proper cage humidity is not being met. A boa that is constantly in the water bowl usually indicates the humidity is too low, the temperature is too high, or the boa has mites.

After a shed, be sure to check the tip of your boa’s tail. HUMIDITY

SHEDDING ISSUES ARE USUALLY A RESULT

Young boas will sometimesOF retainINSUFFICIENT a small piece of (two hours if you’re combating a particularly tough shed skin there. If caught soon after theHUMIDITY shed, this shed) and repeat as necessary. Be sure to check old skin is usually easy to remove by gently pulling on your boa regularly, as they will often defecate the skin off. Always be careful when attempting while soaking. Change the water and clean the this. If it’s sticking, usually a dip in warm water container if this occurs. At end of the shed cycle, will make removal easy. This skin retention does remove the water and place a small towel in the not necessarily mean you have husbandry issues. container so your boa can rub on it to help shed its Sometimes the skin simply tears before the shed is old skin. removed completely. If you notice retained skin on other areas of your boa’s body, you may need to adjust the humidity levels.

Shedding issues are usually a result of insuffi cient humidity. A soak or two during the shed cycle will U I greatly help if you are experiencingH low-humidity M issues. Place a quarter-inch of warm water in an appropriately sized plastic container, and place your boa inside with a secure lid in place. Then place the container in your boa’s cage, positioned so the inside of the container has a warm side and cool side. This will keep the water warm and the humidity high. Do not place it directly over the belly heat or under a basking bulb. A few holes in the lid or sides of the container will provide ventilation. I Soak your boa in the container for up to an hour D T Y HANDLING

MOST BOAS CALM QUICKLY AFTER REPEATED SESSIONS OF BEING HANDLED Boa Constrictor Handling and Temperament

Boa constrictors are usually very docile and The boa constrictor makes a great pet for reptile tolerate handling very well. They often seem to hobbyists of all levels, and it remains a cornerstone enjoy being held and will seek out an area on your in the reptile community. Personally, I believe boa arm or shoulders and enjoy your body warmth. constrictors are as good as it gets in the snake They may crawl around for a few minutes before hunkering down to grab some heat.

If your boa seems to have a bad attitude, check its enclosure temperatures, humidity levels and overall husbandry. Most boas calm quickly after repeated sessions of being handled.