Critical Review on Smart Clothing Product Development

Volume 6, Issue 4, Fall 2010

Minyoung Suh, Kate Carroll, and Nancy Cassill College of Textiles, North Carolina State University 2401 Research Drive, Raleigh NC 27695-8301 [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Review on historical development of smart clothing implies the most challenges in smart clothing product development, the research approaches under a bias towards technology. The perspectives of design research, physiological considerations, and textile technology are suggested as a framework to consider the multi-disciplinary nature of smart clothing. Current smart clothing products are reviewed based on the issues aroused in the product development process, which is how fashion and technology can coexist in functional clothing. Market segments for smart clothing are re-considered in order to accommodate the user requirements for smart clothing.

Keywords: Smart textiles, textile technology

Introduction diverse market segments is discussed with a Smart clothing is defined as a new brief identification of future research. garment feature which can provide interactive reactions by sensing signals, Historical Development of Smart processing information, and actuating the Clothing responses (Textile Institute, 2001). Similar In 1990s mainly for military use in terminology such as interactive clothing, United States and European countries, smart intelligent clothing, smart garment, and clothing has prospered in the field of smart apparel is used interchangeably medical and sportswear. Four different representing for this type of clothing. This stages were distinguished according to paper will use smart clothing but refer to all. historical innovations in research and The purpose of this paper is to development (R&D) and in the market conduct a critical review on the smart (Ariyatum et al., 2005). Significant advances clothing literature and its developmental in R&D and in textile and clothing market issues, focused on how fashion and are depicted chronologically in Table 1. technology can make harmonious coexistence in a functional apparel product. The multi-disciplinary strategies for smart clothing product development are investigated from the perspectives of design research, physiological considerations, and textile technology. Historical developments and current smart clothing development for Article Designation: Scholarly 1 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 4, Fall 2010

Table 1. History of Smart Clothing in R&D and Market 1980 1997 2001 2005 1ST STAGE 2ND STAGE 3RD STAGE 4TH STAGE ∙ Steve Mann, Cyberman ∙ Alexandra Fede with Du Pont ∙ Infineon Technologies, MP3 project and Mitsubishi player jacket ∙ Konarka Technologies and Textronics, ∙ MIT Media Lab., Lizzy ∙ SoftSwitch, Softswitch ∙ Tokyo Univ., Transparent Wearable power generator project technology Clothes project ∙ Idaho National Laboratory, Solar energy ∙ Sensatex, US military ∙ Tampere Univ., Intelligent R&D ∙ Information Society fabric project textiles survey Technologies, Wealthy project ∙ Philips Research, Vision ∙ Georgia Tech., Wearable

of Future project Motherboard

∙ Bristol Univ., Sensory ∙ Eleksen, Fabric keyboard

Fabric project Smart Textile ∙ SoftSwitch, Fabric Keyboard ∙ Eleksen, Logitech Keycase ∙ Fibretronic, ConnectedWear Market ∙ Philips & Levis, ICD+ Jacket ∙ Sensatex, Smartshirt

∙ North Face, Self-heating Jacket ∙ Levis, iPod jean ∙ Vivometrics, LifeShirt Smart ∙ Zegna, Bluetooth iJacket ∙ Burton, MD Jacket Clothing ∙ Zegna, Solar Jacket ∙ Burton, Amp Jacket Market ∙ Metallica, Metallica M4 Jacket ∙ GapKid, FM radio shirt ∙ Oakley, Solar beach tote ∙ Adidas, Self-adapting shoes

Source: Ariyatum, B., Holland, R., Harrison, D., & Kazi, T. (2005). The Future Design Direction of Smart Clothing Development. Journal of Textile Institute, 96(4), 199-212. Fibretronic (n.d.). Wearables Reaches its 10th Year. Retrieved August 5, 2009, from http://fibretronic.com

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First Stage, 1980s to 1997 devices the wearers are carrying. Previously, The concept of smart clothing has the flow of information was from users to been initiated from the idea of wearable the environment, but currently it became computer. Clothing is selected since it is the reverse or both directions. Wearable most universal interface between human and technology tries to accept, analyze, and computer that all are very familiar with. The transform information from environment to focus of first stage projects was computing assist the user. For example, smart clothing hardware in portable form merely to express attracts great interests to create renewable advanced technologies. The clothing and wearable energy sources from solar provided only a platform to support power or kinetic energy of the wearer. technological devices. Outcomes in this stage were portable rather than wearable and Framework not marketable at all. Smart clothing is understood as an object of interdisciplinary research from Second Stage, 1998 to 2001 different disciplines. It is important to The second stage could be review how researchers view smart clothing characterized by the fashion and textile as research objects and how different sectors joined in product development. The disciplines define the intelligence integrated number of collaborative projects between into the products on the basis of different electronic and fashion fields rapidly research paradigms. According to Textile increased. The collaboration between Institute (2006c), smart clothing is located Phillips Electronics and Levi Strauss in 1999 on the intersectional province of design was widely considered to be the very first research, physiology, and textile technology commercial wearable electronic garment. (Figure 1). The applications became more wearable, but Design research focuses on product they could not meet requirements of the development issues and includes the mass market. Most outcomes were still in objectives of environment and primitive level because technology was communication. The product development underdeveloped. process is important because redesign costs become higher as the process goes closer to Third Stage, 2002 to 2005 production, while costs to change designs While earlier smart clothing focused remain lower in development stages. on technical feasibility, product Physiological concerns are related closely to marketability attracted more interests during human factors such as sensory comfort and this stage. Many development teams realized mobility. Comfort includes psychological the needs for inputs from fashion industry and physiological aspects. Psychological and user requirements. The approach has aspects will be put aside in this paper, and changed from a technical concern to a user- human body and its reaction to centered one. Miniaturization of electronic environmental changes will be discussed devices created more opportunities to with the physiological considerations. achieve higher mobility and comfort, while Lastly, textile technology takes care of the technical functions kept increasing materials, which are e-textiles and the (Ariyatum & Holland, 2003). incorporation with the clothing. Compatibility of dissimilar properties in Fourth Stage, 2006 to current technology and clothing is the most Smart clothing for digital media challenge from textile point of view. The player approaches to market maturity. It was multi-disciplinary nature of smart clothing is remarkable that some of high fashion brands related to the integration of design research, jumped into smart clothing development physiology, and textile technology as (e.g. Zegna Sport). Intelligence of smart illustrated in Figure 1. clothing is not limited to manage personal

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Figure 1. Multidisciplinary Approach to Smart Clothing Source: Textile Institute (2006c). Intelligent Textiles and Clothing (Mattila, H. Ed.), Florid: CRC Press. Design Research Samuel, 1989; Figure 2). It takes seven steps In business and engineering, new to identify users’ needs and develop a product development is the creation of product to meet identified needs. On the physical products or services to respond to other hand, Crawford and Di Benedetto customer needs (Ulrich & Eppinger, 2004). (2003) presented very managerial point of The ideas are transformed into reality view. The process begins with business through the product development process. It opportunity and existence of sales potential is a set of sequential activities and tasks rather than the problem recognition in their which translate customer needs into product new product development process model design. Design is creative, but the process (Figure 2). Other developmental and leading to successful designs can be made evaluative steps follow the business plan predictable and transparent (Regan et al., established at the early stage. 1998; Watkins, 1988). Research on the According to Crawford & Di product development process aims to Benedetto (2003) and DeJonge (1984), maximize the effectiveness of successful product development processes are product development by increasing overlapped and iterative. A loop structure is reliability of actions and decisions earlier in created by going back to any of previous the development process (Regan et al., steps until completion of a whole problem as 1998). Previously suggested models go well as a series of smaller associated through the five steps of idea generation, problems. The activities shown in Figure 2 design, prototype development, evaluation are not merely sequential, but overlapping. & design refinement, and production Each stage begins before the previous one is planning as illustrated in Figure 2. completely finished. Therefore, the designers should keep all the procedures in Product Development Process mind throughout the whole process. Most systematic product Clothing Product Development Process development approaches are based on Clothing product development engineering design process theory (Lewis & process follows the new product

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development process in general. According model. Activities involved in creating to Regan et al. (1998), the clothing design clothing products within an apparel process is congruous with engineering manufacturing company were listed out and design process theory. The desire of people named Merchandising Taxonomy. to look beautiful and updated in fashion is a Merchandising process consists of line big opportunity for apparel manufacturers planning, line development, and production. and design problems are found in staying up Products are developed through the line to date with fashion trends. The development stage which includes line characteristics of clothing products and concept, creative design, line adoption, and fashion industry should be addressed to technical design processes. Clothing product understand the process. development models found from previous Clothing product development researches are summarized on the orange- process is highly affected by the size and colored rows in Figure 2. nature of the firm and its fashion orientation (Glock & Kunz, 2005). The size of an Functional Clothing Product apparel firm affects product volume and the Development Process number of people with product development Functional textile and clothing responsibilities. For small firms, still development has prevailed in the field of common in the apparel business, product sportswear and sporting equipment (Textile development tasks may be performed in less Institute, 2005; O’Mahony & Braddock, systematic ways, for example, by the owner 2002). Functional clothing provides special or single designer; whereas designers in functionality to the wearer such as large firms are the part of the product protection or assistance which the development team. The stronger the fashion conventional garment cannot. It is worn by focuses of the product, the more important the specific group of people at special the designers’ influence in the product occasion (e.g. fire-fighting, space, sports). development process (Glock & Kunz, 2005). The overall process for functional Most apparel firms place relatively heavy clothing is not very distinguishable from the emphasis on originality and fashion-forward typical clothing design framework. products. According to Regan et al. (1998), However, the information-gathering stage clothing products are characterized 80% by focusing on the needs and preferences of the aesthetics and 20% by function; whereas, target customer has much more emphasis in other products are 80% function and 20% functional design, as shown in the following aesthetics. However, even aesthetics is not studies. Previous product development solely intuitive. It can be achieved by taking frameworks for functional clothing are the productive development process step by depicted on last four green rows in Figure 2. step. Watkins (1988) proposed seven Gaskill’s model (1992) put more steps to successful design for functional value on merchandising and market-oriented clothing (Figure 2). DeJonge (1984) put product compared to engineering design much importance on early development process. Wickett et al. (1999) expanded the stages in which initial requests are made for Gaskill’s model. The focus is shifted from a design solution (Labat & Sokolowski, market availability to product feasibility. 1999). If the problems are thoroughly The stages after final adoption were accepted, analyzed, and defined in the early specified and named as technical stages, the rest of the process becomes more development, which includes fit/style productive. Many new ideas are generated perfecting, production pattern making, and then sorted out to pick the most material/garment specification, and sourcing promising one. Future research (Carroll & processes. These were expected to increase Kincade, 2007; Lamb & Kallal, 1992) overall efficiency during the production. suggests that prototype construction and Glock & Kunz (2005) also have evaluation to explore the feasibility of several factors in common with Gaskill’s potential solutions.

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Figure 2. Product Development Processes

Source: Lewis, W. & Samuel, A. (1989). Fundamentals of Engineering Design. New York: Prentice Hall. Crawford, M. & Di Benedetto, A. (2003). New Products Management. New York: McGraw-Hill. Gaskill, L. (1992). Toward a Model of Retail Product Development: A Case Study Analysis. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10(4), 17- 24. Wickett, J., Gaskill, L. & Damhorst, M. (1999). Apparel Retail Product Development: Model Testing and Expansion. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17(1), 21-35. Glock, R. & Kunz, G. (2005). Apparel Manufacturing Sewn Product Analysis, Macmillan: New York, USA. Watkins, S. (1988). Using the Design Process to Teach Functional Apparel Design. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 7(1), 10-14. Rosenblad-Wallin, E. (1985). User-oriented Product Development Applied to Functional Clothing Design. Applied Ergonomics, 16, 279-287. Lamb, J. & Kallal, M. (1992). A Conceptual Framework for Apparel Design. Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 10(2), 42-47. Carroll, K. & Kincade, D. (2007). Inclusive Design in Apparel Product Development for Working Women with Physical Disabilities. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 35(4), 289-315.

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Functional clothing development process is can be neglected in functional clothing in contrast with conventional clothing development. development in terms of the location of core Depending on the different stages. Generally, clothing products start background researchers are mainly oriented with market needs and go through product- from, the user analysis put focuses on oriented processes where critical decisions specific concerns. Park and Jayaraman are made in design and evaluation phase (2003) identified the key user requirements (Glock & Kunz, 2005; Wickett et al., 1999; during Smartshirt ™ development process Gaskill, 1992; Figure 2). Determination of from the perspective of functionality, physical specifications of the products (e.g. usability, wearability, durability, colors, fabrics, silhouette, and style) maintainability, and affordability. Their differentiates conventional clothing product prior concerns were based on function- development. The consumer seeks a benefit related requirements and aesthetic that will give satisfaction, but is not the consideration was fairly neglected. The center of the process. Satisfaction is approach of McCann et al. (2005) to view confirmed not by wear-testing, but by the smart clothing was very apparel-oriented. second purchase they might have They categorized the end-user needs for (Resenblad-Wallin, 1985). smart clothing into four: demands of the On the other hand, functional body, demands of the end-use activity, clothing development can be characterized demands of the culture, and aesthetic by user-oriented processes. Heavy work load considerations. Demands of the body focus is put on the initial research phase when the on human physiology to feel good. Demands users and use-situation are investigated. of end-use activity and culture are dealing Studying consumer preference between with the issues of being physically and functional needs and aesthetic desires played socially appropriate, respectively. Aesthetic the most important role (Carroll & Kincade, considerations are the application of the 2007; McCann et al., 2005; Rosenblad- elements and principles of design into an Wallin, 1985; DeJonge, 1984). The harmonious outcome. consumers wear functional clothing because In order to accommodate user they have special needs, but they do not requirements during the functional clothing want to be limited in other needs such as development process, Carroll and Kincade comfort and aesthetics (Lamb & Kallal, (2007) introduced a co-design phase where 1992). designers and consumers share their ideas to design a product. The consumers are directly User Analysis involved throughout the product The user value for clothing development process. The participation in comprises functional and symbolic attributes the actual design process helps consumers (Rosenblad-Wallin, 1985). Functional value communicate with designers and is to provide protection and comfort, while manufacturers efficiently and their needs symbolic value is the impression the wearer can be reflected on the products. gives to other people by exterior appearance. FEA consumer needs model (Lamb & Application for Smart Clothing Kallal, 1992) which consists of functional, The concept of smart clothing can expressive, and aesthetic considerations. be understood within the scope of functional Functional considerations are equivalent to clothing. Functional clothing is worn for the functional attributes. Expressive special functional needs such as protection considerations refer to communicative from extreme environments or symbolic aspects of dress, while aesthetic accomplishment of high-tech performance. considerations take care of human desire for Smart clothing integrates functional clothing beauty. Functional, expressive, and aesthetic design and portable technology and can be needs vary with the target consumers and regarded as one of the functional clothing in their cultural basis and none of these aspects Article Designation: Scholarly 8 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 4, Fall 2010

which technological functions are thermal protective clothing (Koscheyev et automatically activated and deactivated. al., 2000). Although innumerable research Generally, thermal comfort can be projects and products were developed in calculated from the measure of practice, there has been no theoretical characteristics of the clothing, the climate guideline established for smart clothing conditions, and the level of physical activity product development. If we approach smart (Textile Institute, 2006b). For smart clothing clothing from the functional clothing point application, additional factors needs to be of view, the pending issue is how to position involved. The heat generated by electronics the new component, the integrated may break thermal equilibrium in a garment technology, into the process. This issue will system and damage to other technological be covered later in Fashion and Technology. elements if auxiliary cooling does not take place. A printed circuit board made up of Physiological Consideration layer of impermeable resin prevents Smart clothing should be developed evaporative heat loss and accumulates on the physiological basis in order to trapped heat. Trapped moisture may cause a implement the smart applications which short circuit or corrode interconnections maintain the comfort and usability of (Dunne et al., 2005). Both physical impacts ordinary clothes. The demands of the body of functionality on the human body and the were highlighted as essential design impacts of human physiological reaction on considerations for functional clothing. technology should be taken into account. According to McCann et al. (1999), the demands of the body were protection, Tactile Comfort anthropometry, ergonomic of movement, The interaction between fabric and thermo-physiological regulation, and human skin will stimulate various sensory psychological considerations. Bryson (2007) receptors on the skin and may cause addressed water regulation, thermal uncomfortable feelings such as tickle, itch, regulation, and physical sensation. Critical prickle, and abrasion of the skin (Textile physiological concerns for smart clothing Institute, 2006a). For the clothing, overall found in literature can be joined together tactile feeling is related more to pressure into the issues of thermal comfort (heat and comfort which includes heaviness and moisture regulation), tactile comfort tightness rather than prickliness, itchiness, (physical sensation) and mobility and roughness (Textile Institute, 2006a; (movement, fit, and size) issues. Barker, 2002). A technological component, while Thermal Comfort ever decreasing in dimension and weight, The body constantly generates heat adds extra weight and pressure on a human from the metabolism and loses this heat to body (Dunne et al., 2005). Since the level of the environment. A balance must be tolerable pressure varies at different maintained between the rates of heat positions on the body, careful distribution of production and heat loss (Textile Institute, technological component is required when 2006a). Discomfort becomes apparent when the smart clothing is developed. If a specific the body feels too hot or too cold. Thermal body area is exposed to excessive loads, balance is closely related to the transport or there occurs muscle fatigue. In addition, conservation of heat and moisture since metabolic rate increases when the throughout the garment system (Barker, body tries to work against the heavy and 2002). Thermal comfort of the clothing has stiff clothing, unwanted heat production may been investigated in terms of thermal also occur. Continuous high pressure may protection. The most functional clothing in develop of various tissue lesions, such as this field of research is firefighters’ turnout pressure sores and ulcers (Textile Institute, gear (Barker et al., 2006). Zone selection, 2006a). thermal profiles, and physiological thermal modeling were important to develop the Article Designation: Scholarly 9 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 4, Fall 2010

Mobility example, functional preference for extended Mobility issues have attracted great power supply of portable devices such as concerns in performance sportswear such as laptop computers or cell phones must result swimsuit and diving suit (O’Mahony & in huge and awkward looking batteries Braddock, 2002). The ease of movement is additionally attached. Unfortunately, with dependent on garment design and the the current advances in technology, it seems relative size between body and clothing. hard to fully satisfy both functional and High stretch fabrics have provided aesthetic worlds. This can be regarded as the opportunities for the functional clothing to matter of choosing between practical accommodate both tight-fitting and body usefulness and aesthetic desirableness. As movement (Textile Institute, 2006a). many other new products, the developmental Mobility within clothing is reduced issue, whether it is style or function as technological function increases. If oriented, is continually challenged when wearable technology incorporates bulky and designing a new smart clothing (Powell & stiff areas, they must be situated at specific Cassill, 2006). locations on the body in order to avoid the abrasion and preserve the mobility. Dunne et Fashion and Technology al. (2005) suggested the places where The apparel is one of the products volume and stiffness already exists; highly appealing to aesthetic preference of shoulder, upper back, and abdomen. The the user. Aesthetically pleasing design is an selection of location varies according to integral part of the success in fashion and wearer’s gender or age and technical apparel industry. Although technical aspects functionality. For example, upper chest of have the strong influences in smart clothing the male and upper back of the young is a development, we cannot expect fashion planar surface, while it is not true for the industry to adapt itself to technology. Before opposite groups (Dunne et al., 2005). This we start designing smart clothing, we have may go more challengeable when to ask to ourselves which should be a technological functionality depends on decisive factor, form (style or fashion) or specific body area in order to operate as function (technical performance or intended, such as sensors or actuators. technology). For most cases, consumers want to Smart clothing designers are enjoy most advanced technology without accustomed to taking into account the losing their fashion sense. Products designed interactions between human physiological awkward in style simply cannot attract reactions and physical characteristics of users’ attention. For example, walking aids garment. The wearer should not be limited should not look like something that people in comfort and mobility as a result of with a walking problem use. It needs to be intelligent adaptation in clothing (Bryson, designed as if it were not there or at least it 2007; Dunne et al., 2005; McCann et al., were a part of fashionable accessories such 2005; Koscheyev, 2000). At the same time, as shoes or handbags (Murata, 2008). technological devices must not be damaged Although some people may want to hide or lose the efficiency by any external technology out of their sight, others may interruption (e.g. posture or movement) and want to give visible forms to the technology, body wastes (e.g. sweat or heat) that the simply in order to show other people that wear creates. those functions are there. Sometimes, the functional form can Textile Technology survive in an aesthetic purpose even after its Functional forms do not necessarily practical function is taken away. Sports emerge as a consequence of pleasing the shoes, developed from conventional aesthetic preferences of the users. Rather, it footwear, have established their own look as is natural that the design to satisfy functional a fashion and spread to affect other casual demands inherently conflicts with the and even formal footwear. Now, many shoes aesthetic demands (Bryson, 2007). For are designed similar to sports shoes, though Article Designation: Scholarly 10 JTATM Volume 6, Issue 4, Fall 2010

the people who wear them may never Degree of Technology Integration actually indulge in any sporting activity Until every part of technology can (Marzano et al., 2000). Fashion designers be made out of textile material without any borrow the high-tech textiles originally functional limitation, technical components intended for extreme sports and use them for cannot b completely integrated into the ready-to-wear and haute couture. Extreme clothes. To empower the appearance, sportswear look can be found in many technology must be simplified and invisible fashionable wardrobes as designers consider as much as it can. If technology is not the look of the new sport clothing modern invisible, it should have an attractive and glamorous (O’Mahony & Braddock, appearance and become fashionable 2002). accessories of the clothing such as a button or a zipper. Degree of body and technology integration has been classified into three categories shown in Table 2.

Table 2. Degree of Technology Integration

Degree Type Description

High Implanted Such as implants or tattoos Integration Technology is integrated into the fabric as an Wearable intrinsic part

Embedment Technology is physically attached or embedded into clothing or textile substrates

Contents Clothing is the container for technology

Low Handheld Such as mobile devices

Source: Seymour, S. (2008). Fashionable Technology: The intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology. Wien: Springer Wien New York.

Degree of integration is highly Similarly, Ariyatum et al. (2005) located dependent on the demands for sportswear products on the middle point of expressiveness and functionality of smart purchasing criteria spectrum constructed clothing. Expressiveness is based on the with the bipolar values of practical function socio-cultural and psychological aspects of and emotional fashion attributes. This the dress, while functionality is oriented position is suggested to be appropriate for from the practical assistance embedded smart clothing (Ariyatum et al., 2005). technology can provide to the wearers. Smart clothing must address a practical Seymour (2008) defined three levels of function as do electronic devices, and expressiveness versus functionality in smart attractive design and emotional values as do clothing and they are shown in Table 3. fashion clothes.

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Table 3. Level of Expressiveness versus Functionality

Level Description Example

1 The fashionable wearables are implements for Expressiveness High Fashion personal expression and the functionality is less

important.

2 Sportswear The fashionable wearables have a defined function

and some need to be stylish.

3 Workwear The functionality is the focal point. The necessity

for personal expression is limited by strict pre-

Functionality defined functionalities and restrictions.

Source: Seymour, S. (2008). Fashionable Technology: The intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology. Wien: Springer Wien New York.

Current Development of Smart Clothing information on US market segments According to Ariyatum & Holland provided by British Chambers of Commerce (2003), the major applications of smart (BCC) is shown in Figure 3. clothing can be categorized into military, Two of the four applications will be medical, communication, entertainment and studied in terms that which products are sports/recreation. The growth rates vary developed in the market: entertainment and dramatically by the application segment. biomedical segments. These are most The highest growth is expected in consumer promising field which take two third of entertainment, medical status monitoring, overall smart clothing market. and military applications. Detailed

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Figure 3. US Smart Clothing Market by Segment

Source: British Chambers of Commerce, 2008

Smart Clothing for Medical Use center in real-time through wireless network. Firstly designed for military They made remote patient monitoring purpose, Smartshirt™ by Sensatex uses possible. plastic optical fiber transferring signals at a Degree of technology integration in regular interval and detects the injuries such Smartshirt™, Lifeshirt™, and Wealthy is as gunshots of a soldier in the battlefield. summarized in Table 4 for their major Later on, this technology is transferred for functionalities. All need additional civilian use to accommodate smart wear for equipments for measuring and processing. medical and sports purpose. Vivometrics They are not practical for unnoticeable also released the first Lifeshirt™ for health monitoring. Only primitive emergency-service workers and they technologies such as optical fibers and expanded the market to general consumer electrocardiogram electrodes are integrated, after adjusting the manufacturing cost. For while other complicated technologies such most health monitoring smart clothing, the processor and sensors are at embedment or processor unit acquires data from the sensors contents level. and transmit them to the remote medical

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Table 4. Integration of Technology for Medical Use

Degree of Integration Technology Function Integration Method

Smart Optical fiber Signal transfer Integration Woven Shirt™ Processor Data transmission Embedment Pocket

Life Electrode Cardiopulmonary signal Contents Inserted in slit Shirt™ Sandwiched in Respiband Respiratory data Embedment between linings Processor Data transmission Handheld

Wealthy Electrode Electrocardiogram Integration Knitted

Piezoresistive Respiratory data Contents Pocket sensor Body movement

Temperature Skin temperature Embedment Sewn on lining sensor

Processor Data transmission Contents Pocket

Author: Suh, M. (2009)

Smart Clothing for Entertainment keypad technology for DIY application. This For the smart clothing with built-in kit is developed to fit to any jackets or bags MP3 player controller, the market is allowing everybody to create their own approaching to maturity. A lot of recent smart clothing. commercial products are based on Smart clothing represents the future Fibretronic Embedded Textile Devices of both the textile and clothing industry and (Figure 4). It is created by embedding micro electronic industry. As the convergence printed circuit board within the structure of between these two industries brings large fabrics and bonding it for permanent opportunities and challenges, it draws great fixation. Wires for signal transfer were attention and investment from different woven on the strap and supposed to be fields. Currently, however, none of smart connected to external MP3 players. The clothing applications is considered a full controllers are set in forms of keypad or integration of high technology and fashion joystick (Figure 4) allowing the functions design, since most research attempts are such play/pause and volume control. The focusing on solving technical problems such decreasing cost encouraged its widespread as integrating microchip and processors into adoption and availability. In 2009, the clothing and overcoming wash and care Fibretronic released a developer kit of their issues.

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(a) (b) Figure 4. Fibretronic Embedded Textile Devices: (a) keypad, (b) joystick Source: Fibretronic (n.d.) from http://fibretronic.com

Conclusion functionalities that we think necessary Smart clothing has opened a new during the day (Marzano et al., 2000). For lifestyle to the consumers and business the first time, an industry that has revolution to the industry. We will not only traditionally been dominated by fashion and have to decide which jackets or pants would style engaged itself in another totally be matched together but also have to different industry, the electronics industry. customize those garments in terms of the

Figure 5. Key Researches from Different Disciplinary Approaches Author: Suh, M. (2009)

Smart clothing is defined to locate of each discipline. The key researches for in the intersectional area of design research, each field are listed in Figure 5. Successful physiology and textile technology. product development for smart clothing is Historical and current development of smart possible only when these researches are clothing product is summarized and integrated to work together. developmental issues related to smart Current market segment divided by clothing are reviewed from the perspective technical functionalities (Figure 6a) reflects

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that how we have been product-oriented considered according to the target users as when we consider the smart clothing so far. suggested in Figure 6b. The requirement of Through the literature, we saw that user expressiveness and functionality can be analysis is so important for functional understood clearly if smart clothing market apparel product development. Smart takes the user-oriented viewpoints. clothing market segment needs to be re-

(a) (b)

Figure 6. Mapping of Smart Clothing Market Segments: (a) by product-oriented segment, (b) by user-oriented segment Author: Suh, M. (2009)

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Crawford, M. & Di Benedetto, A. (2003). McCann, J., Hurford, R., & Martin, A. New Products Management. New (2005, October). A Design Process York: Irwin McGraw-Hill. for the Development of Innovative DeJonge, J. (1984). Forward: the Design Smart Clothing that Addresses End- Process. In Watkins, S. (Ed.), user Needs from Technical, Clothing: The Portable Environment Functional, Aesthetic, and Cultural (pp.vii-xi) Iowa: Iowa State View Points. Paper presented at the University Press. meeting of the 2005 Ninth IEEE Dunne, L., Ashdown, S., & Smyth, B. International Symposium on (2005). Expanding Garment Wearable Computers, Osaka, Japan. Functionality through Embedded McCann, J. (1999). Establishing the Electronic Technology. Journal of Requirements for the Design Textile and Apparel, Technology Development Performance and Management, 4(3). Sportswear. M.Phil. Thesis, Fibretronic (n.d.). Wearables Reaches its University of Derby, 1999. 10th Year. Retrieved August 5, O’Mahony, M. & Braddock, S. (2002). 2009, from http://fibretronic.com Sportstech: Revolutionary Fabrics, Gaskill, L. (1992). Toward a Model of Fashion, and Design. New York: Retail Product Development: A Thames & Hudson. Case Study Analysis. Clothing and Park, S. & Jayaraman, S. (2003, May/June). Textiles Research Journal, 10(4), Enhancing the Quality of Life 17-24. through Wearable Technology; The Glock, R. and Kunz, G. (2005). Apparel Role of a Personalized Wearable Manufacturing Sewn Product Intelligent Information Analysis. Infrastructure in Addressing the Koscheyev, V. (2000, July). Physiological Challenges of Healthcare. IEEE Considerations in the Design of Engineering in Medicine and Clothing and Protective Equipment Biology Magazine, pp. 41-48. for Extreme Environments and in Powell, N. & Cassill, N. (2005). New Modeling Human Heat Exchange. Textile Product Development: Paper presented at the meeting of Processes, Practices, and Products. the IEA 2000/HFES 2000 Congress, Journal of Textile Institute, 97(2), San Diego, CA. 155-166. Lamb, J. & Kallal, M. (1992). A Conceptual Regan, C., Kincade, D., & Sheldon, G. Framework for Apparel Design. (1998). Applicability of the Clothing and Textile Research Engineering Design Process Theory Journal, 10(2), 42-47. in the Apparel Design Process. Lewis, W. & Samuel, A. (1989). Clothing and Textiles Research Fundamentals of Engineering Journal, 16(1), 36-46. Design. New York: Prentice Hall. Rosenblad-Wallin, E. (1985). User-oriented Marzano, S. (2000). New Nomads: An Product Development Applied to Exploration of Wearable Electronics Functional Clothing Design. by Philips. Rotterdam: 010 Applied Ergonomics, 16, 279-287. Publishers. Sensatex (n.d.). Retrieved August 5, 2009, from http://www.sensatex.com/ Seymour, S. (2008). Fashionable Technology: The intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology. Wien: Springer Wien New York.

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Talk 2 My Shirt (n.d.). Everything You Ulrich, K. & Eppinger, S. (2004). Product Want to Know about Wearable Design and Development. New Electronic, Retrieved August 5, York: McGraw-Hill. 2009, from Vivometrics (n.d.). Retrieved August 5, http://www.talk2myshirt.com 2009, from Textile Institute (2006a). Biomechanical http://www.vivometrics.com/ Engineering of Textiles and Watkins, S. (1988). Using the Design Clothing (Li, Y. and Dai, X. Ed.). Process to Teach Functional Florida: CRC Press. Apparel Design. Clothing and Textile Institute (2006b). Clothing Textiles Research Journal, 7(1), 10- Biosensory Engineering (Li, Y. and 14. Wong, A. Ed.). Florida: CRC Press. Watkins, S. (2005). Clothing: the Portable Textile Institute (2006c). Intelligent Textiles Environment, Iowa: Iowa State and Clothing (Mattila, H. Ed.). University Press. Florida: CRC Press. Wickett, J., Gaskill, L. & Damhorst, M. Textile Institute (2005). Textiles in Sport (1999). Apparel Retail Product (Shishoo, R. Ed.). Florida: CRC Development: Model Testing and Press. Expansion. Clothing and Textiles Textile Institute (2001). Smart Fibers, Research Journal, 17(1), 21-35 Fabrics and Clothing (Tao, X. Ed.). Florida: CRC Press.

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