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CALIFORNIA Erhouse alifornia has become a values pow- CALIFORNIA erhouse. Long-known for its high quality and diversity, but not nec- C essarily for top-rated wines that were also well-priced, the state now excels on all fronts. Multiple trends have con- EAM verged to usher in this new era, including DR IN the push into emerging regions, experi- ’ mentation with less-familiar grapes and Our editors select their greater precision in both vineyard and favorite values from the Golden State, cellar. The selections that follow include everything from zesty reds to sleek whites with something for everyone to creamy sparklers, all rated 88 points or higher and priced at $25 or less. It’s time BY KEITH NEWTON to explore all that this diverse and boun- ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN JOHNSON tiful state has to offer. APRIL 30, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 69 WS043021_values.indd 69 2/17/21 2:09 PM NOW FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT ome of the most intriguing values coming out of the Golden State are a group of alternative reds and whites made from less-familiar grapes. Senior editor MARYANN WOROBIEC’ S S MaryAnn Worobiec has been tracking down the best of these bottlings, many of them sourced from small vineyard sites in emerging regions. Their inspiration comes TOP PICKS from France (think of white grapes such as Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Viognier), Italy (the red grapes Barbera and Sangiovese) and Spain (Albariño for whites, Tempranillo for reds). These wines offer a range of styles Paso’s Tablas Creek is a Rhône-specialist and perennial new to the California scene, with flavors and textures leader for value. Blending five different grapes together, certain to draw attention. More than anything, they show- “ this white is wonderfully food-friendly. case the restless energy driving California wine today. 93 | $25 | TABLAS CREEK | Patelin de Tablas Blanc Paso” Robles 2019 | Aromatic and complex, with orange blos- som, almond cake and Fuji apple notes. Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette Blanche. (M.W.) Aromatic whites made from alternative grapes are an exciting place to look for bargains, like this version “ from Evan Frazier of Ferdinand Wines. 91 | $20 | FERDINAND | Albariño California Vista Luna Vineyard” 2019 | This opens up sleek and elegant, bursting with distinctive, precise and intense notes of fresh pear, lime and blood orange. A thread of saline weaves in and out. (M.W.) Stephanie Terrizzi at her Giornata winery in Paso Robles The Sierra Foothills are a source of charming wines, 92 | $25 | MINER | Viognier Paso Robles 2019 | There’s great including Italian-inspired reds such as this approachable purity to the pineapple, lemon curd and apricot flavors, ending with Barbera from vineyards planted in the 1980s. touches of peach blossom and candied orange peel. A fresh thread “ of acidity and a supple texture leave an elegant impression. (M.W.) 89 | $25 | LAVA CAP | Barbera El Dorado County 2017 | The fresh,” juicy 90 | $20 | HORSE & PLOW | Draft Horse Red North Coast cherry and berry flavors at the core of 2018 | Blueberry, huckleberry and cherry cobbler flavors are focused, this red show a sense of elegance, with balancing fleshy ripeness with juicy acidity, ending with a long, polished tannins and details of cumin, expressive finish. Carignane, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Syrah. (M.W.) cocoa powder and black tea. (M.W.) 90 | $22 | BOKISCH | Garnacha Blanca Borden Ranch Vista Luna Vineyard 2019 | Sleek and citrusy, with lemon blossom, lime zest, grapefruit and apple flavors that are both elegant and powerful, with a refreshing finish. (M.W.) 89 | $22 | FERRARI-CARANO | Siena Sonoma County 2017 | Juicy, 90 | $25 | GIORNATA | Barbera Paso Robles 2018 | Stunning and with fresh, tangy acidity weaving in and out of flavors of maraschino cherry, vibrant, with fresh and generous raspberry, blackberry and wild strawberry red licorice and spiced plum. Sangiovese, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Cabernet flavors at the core, accented by hints of green tea and licorice. The pure fruit Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Grenache and Tannat. (M.W.) and juicy, creamy texture make this memorable. (M.W.) 89 | $24 | DASHE | Delta Reds California 2017 | Plump black cherry, 89 | $17 | TANGENT | Albariño Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard 2018 | blueberry and sarsaparilla flavors are generous and juicy, with appealing Vibrant and mouthwatering, showing flavors of ruby grapefruit, passion fruit spice, cola and black tea notes and a complex, harmonious finish. Carignane, and lemon curd that are intense, reverberating on the long, fresh finish. (M.W.) Barbera, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, Teroldego, Tannat and Zinfandel. (M.W.) 89 | $18 | LEO STEEN | Chenin Blanc Dry Creek Valley Saini Farms 89 | $25 | CRUSE WINE CO. | Monkey Jacket North Coast 2018 | 2019 | Intense flavors of yellow apple, ripe melon and stone fruit show spice Fragrant, with dried lavender, spearmint, loam and black licorice details to and chamomile notes on a succulent frame, ending with a thread of minerality the vibrant, juicy cranberry and tangy cherry fruit. Appealing for its elegance, on the finish. (M.W.) freshness and transparency. Valdiguié, Carignane, Syrah and Pinot Noir. (M.W.) JULIA PEREZ APRIL 30, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 73 WS043021_values.indd 73 2/17/21 2:10 PM.
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