observations of travelers con- as Culture: The Kazakh cerning the abundance of festive entertainment at weddings and Experience memorial feasts of the , and also the rich materials of Alma Kunanbaeva1 folklore. The portrayal of elaborate Stanford University, USA feasts is infinitely varied and evocative, for example, in the Kazakh epic “Koblandy-batyr”, the Kyrgyz epic “Manas”, and in any The have an amusing what?” “Everything!” “Did you other epic tales of the Central anecdote often told at the table: give him ?” “What Asian nomads. Once a Kazakh came to town on earth is that?” “Go buy a to buy food for an upcoming toi sheep, boil it whole in water, One of the basic reasons for (feast) celebrating the dump it in front of him, and such misunderstanding regarding expected birth of a child. He he’ll leave.” The Uzbek had no the diet of the nomads is, if you met there his Uzbek friend. choice; so he did it. And he wish, historical and ecological. Let The Uzbek was delighted at the had no sooner served the me explain. The fact is that the chance to display his hospitality , when the Kazakh began food values of the traditional and invited the Kazakh home to hurry, washed his hands, (steppe) and contemporary as a guest. It was impossible thanked everyone, tasted the (farmed) products of animal to refuse, and the Kazakh, meat, drank the broth and husbandry hardly bear com- even though he was in a hurry immediately began to say his parison. Above all this is to return home, agreed. The goodbyes. “I apologize, friend, connected with the nature of the Uzbek brought him home and but I’m in a rush — it’s possible vegetation cover of the pastures began to entertain him that my wife has already given and the grazing pattern of the generously. There was flat birth. I simply didn’t realize animals. Even today, the quality , grapes, honey, dried that your pasture is so far from of the sheep in and fruits, unusual sweets and a the city. Well, so be it. the USA, for example, cannot be great deal of green . Farewell.” compared. Here is an example. (“Thank God, it’s hot,” the When publishing this tale, one In 2002 in Washington a Kazakh Kazakh thought, “but it’s ought to give it a title — for delegation of 18 people, invited to so...pale, it hasn’t steeped very example, “The Dumb Kazkah,” or participate in an international long.”) At the end of the day the “Dumb Uzbek,” or even “Two celebration of the countries of the they brought in a plate of worlds — Two Civilizations”….2 A historic (The Silk Road: greasy . (“Why on earth is more academic title would be Connecting Cultures, Creating it made with raisins and nuts appropriate: “The Role of Stewed Trust. The 36th Annual Smith- — maybe they don’t have Meat in the Hospitality Ritual of the sonian Folklife Festival On the enough food?” the Kazakh said Kazakhs,” “ On the Question of the National Mall, Washington, D.C.), to himself.) After the the Semiotics of Food,” etc., etc. despite the perfectly satisfactory Kazakh, to the surprise of his food both in the hotel and at the Uzbek hosts, stayed for the All of the well-known literature festival grounds, decided to find a night. The wish of the guest is on the ethnography of nomads way to eat “normal” (that is, law. In the morning, they had starts with the premise about their traditional) beshbarmak3 — the tea, and again at the midday being deprived of any agricultural Kazakhs’ favorite meat dish. Our meal; in the evening they products, and, in connection with hospitable American friends served soup. (“Fairly tasty, but that, the impoverished nature of straight away found a farm located too full of potatoes.”) And the nomadic diet. It is normal to not far from the capital, took us again the Kazakh stayed for the state laconically that the basis of there, allowed our experts to night, although for some the ’s diet is meat and select the best sheep, slaughter reason he began to worry. The — that is, those things which can it on the spot and themselves host was already unhappy that be obtained directly from their begin to prepare it. The entire he had invited him home. animals. Meat and milk products procedure was videotaped. Groaning, he went off to the are distinguished for their high Everyone was bursting with market to buy something for protein content and indeed enthusiasm and taking pains to the table and in his heart maintain the energy of individuals ensure the best possible outcome, lamented that he simply engaged in heavy physical labor. but in the end they were couldn’t get rid of the Kazakh. However, the diet of the nomad in disappointed. The meat was But a wise man said, “Did you fact never was limited to them. different. The conoisseurs quickly feed him?” “Fed him.” “With One need but recall the numerous discovered the chief reason: the

48 grass in that area was too watery, dentally, “the mistake of someone most honored guest. Before resulting in meat that was who was helping,” and thus serving it, the lower jaw is cut off “watery,” lacking in flavor, and express a sense of insult. (Here and the host makes a cross- “porous.” In addition, the sheep, is a case of a play on words using shaped cut on its forehead. The which for the most part were absolute homonyms—lung, okpe, person who receives the head penned up, had not developed and insult, okpe). The guest was must share with all those present, enough muscle mass. Our then expected to explain how his accompanying his action with Kazakhs carefully considered all action in the past or unfortunate formulae of good wishes. Thus, the factors. Thus it became clear conduct had insulted the hosts and they give out the ears and eyes to that even today people can tell a insofar as possible correct his the young (so that they learn to lot from the taste of meat: the mistake. listen and be observant), the sex of the animal, whether it was tongue and palate to the poets (as The slaughter of animals, free-range or penned up, whether a symbol of eloquence) and to the carried out according to Kazakh it was a lamb or a mature sheep, singers (as the emblem of a custom (in contrast, for example, and how exactly it had been silvery, virtuosic, and ringing to the Mongolian), requires cooked. throat), and pieces of the singed maximum removal of blood: the skin (kuika) to the others. Brains blood should be carefully collected In traditional society, the sheep are not given to the young, since and buried in a safe place. It is to be slaughtered was first shown it is considered that only the wise thought that blood, if it remains to the guest, then laid on its left are worthy of that honor. A dish in the tissue, is the first thing to side, its legs tied in pairs, its throat prepared from finely chopped spoil. The division of the flesh cut without injuring the spine, and brains mixed with meat and requires a knowledge of animal the blood drained. Then an (mipalau – pilaf of brain) is given anatomy, since all bones need to incision was made in the skin and to toothless seniors, in the belief remain unharmed. In the case of the carcass “undressed” — the that this mixture is especially a ritual meal, the bones would be skin was peeled off by hand, nutritious. starting with the abdominal cavity, carefully collected and buried, in then the legs and finally the spine. order that the numbers of the It is clear that the ritual has a The abdomen was cut up, the herds be restored. Meat which magic function, in the of stomach and innards carefully remained on the bones is sliced which, by partaking together, a removed and cleaned off to the and salted, whereby, according to single social group is created and side. The stomach was emptied Kazakh belief, the curing, the its structure made apparent. of its contents, turned inside out, ripening of the meat supposedly A special place in wedding ritual washed and then the lining continues. It would then be dried is occupied by a dish around which scraped off, care being taken not for at least one night, with the aim is distributed boiled and thinly to harm the walls. The intestines of removing any moisture, firming sliced tail fat and liver (kuiryk- were washed, thrice stretched on it up and concentrating its flesh. bauyr), where the alternation of the spout of a tea kettle with cold The head and extremities are the dense and dark with the water and then turned inside out. seared on an open fire, the innards tender and light symbolizes the The small intestine (ashy ishek — washed and used to make kuyrdak paired opposites of male and “sour tasting intestine”) was (boiled innards with ), a dish female, and the liver, as the organ crushed and boiled together with that can be quickly prepared. The which generates blood, sym- the meat, as were the kidneys (a remaining meat is divided into 12 bolizes kinship and birthing. If, at treat for children). The animal’s muscle groups, parts which the time of the betrothal, both lungs were not highly valued as correspond to the 12 parts of the parties to the union receive this food, but were important in the human body or the 12-year dish, then the betrothal is healing practice of the shaman or calendrical cycle. Each part has its considered to be legally binding baqsu. Held by the windpipe, they own social status and significance and a subsequent refusal by one would be used to flagellate the ill in the subsequent sitting. Each of the sides to marry will create person in order that the disease guest, depending on his place in great unpleasantness. be transferred to the sheep’s the social order, is obliged to receive his share. To the son-in- lungs. Then the lungs would either During the wedding, when the law, for example, always goes the be given to the dogs or buried. movement of the young couple is breast (tyos) , and to the young There was one other way of using accompanied by showering them bride the kuiymshak (the last the lungs, in what we might call with grain and sweets, at the vertebrae). silent speech, a traditional way of entrance to the yurt or house of expressing an unspoken reproach. The head of the sheep, which the groom the bride feeds the fire In such a case, a piece of boiled has been cooked separately, — that is, throws on fat or pours lung would be served to a guest occupies a special place in the on it melted . While doing as though by oversight, acci- meal and is given to the oldest or this she invoked the goddess

49 Umai, the protector of women in — a , in which large Tuzdyk can even rescue childbirth, whose name has the chunks of meat and fat are unsuccessful meat. For example, sound of the word mai (fat), and sprinkled with , pepper and if the meat had been stored too asks a blessing on her married life. wild (nowadays ordinary) ; long in the freezer, it is possible In this way the bride joins the kin karta — the tenderest part of the to freshen it after the initial boiling of her husband, since the burning large intestine which has been by it in tuzdyk. of the butter also symbolizes the turned inside out; zhal — the very The quality and the texture of feeding of the ancestors of the juicy part under the mane; zhaia the dough also has an infinite given clan. — the firm, cured and dried soft number of variations and depends part of the haunch. Having crossed the threshold, at very least on five basic factors: the bride meets her in-laws, who, 1. on the type of (finely or The techniques of preparation holding hot, freshly-baked flat coarsely ground, from milled or of include salting, bread in the bosom, embrace the whole grain, from hard or soft marinating, and also drying and bride. In this ritual the bread wheat, home-made or com- curing with juniper smoke. symbolizes the placenta, and the mercial); 2. on the nature of the Depending on the time taken for whole procedure the making of the liquid (whether the dough is mixed each procedure and the bride into a daughter.4 The with icewater, warm or hot water); combination of methods, Kazakhs say that a bride selected 3. on the amount of salt (lightly innumerable taste combinations by god is created at birth from the salted or saline solution); 4. on the may be imparted to the end remains of her future mother-in- presence or absence of eggs in the product, horse meat. This product law, who then discovers as a result dough; and, 5. on the amount of of itself has endless variety, a closer relationship with her. kneading (soft or firm dough). depending on the type of pasture, A no less magical substance is feed, the age of the animal, etc. In the preparation of the dough, the dish zharys kazan (literally, a etc. From this follows the its feel is extremely important. “cauldron-contest”), in which combination of different kinds of While working it, one pays meat is heaped up and put to boil meat into one dish, in a way particular attention to the quantity at the moment when labor in analogous to how seven notes and of liquid ingredients, adding flour childbirth begins. The readiness of three chords provide the basis for as needed and achieving the the dish, the completion of its all European music of the last requisite firmness and springiness , is supposed to influence three centuries. Thus, Kazakhs by comparison with human skin — the readiness of the fetus to be perceive a symphony of aromas, for example, they say about born and facilitate a natural and tastes, colors and textures in the dough: it is light and soft like a safe birth. myriad embodiments of a single child’s cheek (or a baby’s behind), dish — et, which is known in the or it is springy and firm like the Apart from mutton, Kazakhs literature as beshbarmak (literally, breast of a nursing mother, etc. use , goat, and horse “five fingers”). It is served in The mixing of the dough always meat. The last of these is the most conjunction with dough which has alternates with letting it rest — highly valued. Only specially fed been rolled out and boiled in broth until, as they say, the dough is and tethered mares are and on which are placed pieces of “sated” and ready to be rolled out. slaughtered, ones which have stewed meat which has been cut It is rolled out with a long rolling never been ridden or used in other into large chunks. Poured over this pin of narrow diameter, to the work. The special regime of combination of dough and meat point where the dough forms a feeding such mares is called zhylki is an onion , tuzdyk, whose circle of the thickness and bailau (the tying of the mare), and quality determines the taste of the transparency of a sheet of paper. the slaughter of the mare in early entire dish. Rings or half rings of Such dough when boiled will not winter, sogym. Sogym becomes a juicy, crisp onion are covered with fall apart nor will it stick to itself. holiday for the whole community, fat skimmed from the broth, each member of which receives a Such tender and white dough salted, peppered and then portion. The first meal after the goes well with tender and light- simmered on a slow flame. slaughter is one in which all colored mutton. Camel and horse Heaven help the person who members of the community meat, on the other hand, require overcooks the onion — it will all gather at one table (dastarkhan). a darker and thicker dough, pieces be spoiled! The onion should of which are cut up into smaller In a somewhat analogous retain its crispness and having just portions and boiled longer so that fashion to the white and dark meat begun to secrete onion juice, they absorb the broth. of a Christmas turkey, horse meat replaces it with concentrated broth has dozens of parts which differ and becomes transparent. Only Beshbarmak is served on in taste, texture and use. Thus: once have I tasted French onion several dishes — in earlier times kazy, whole, salted and cured ribs soup which could be compared flat wooden ones, and now in a casing of intestine; shuzhyk with the Kazakh tuzdyk sauce. enameled or ceramic ones — so

50 that one dish will serve three to await asatu as a reward and past now makes me shudder. But four individuals of the same age promise of good fortune in life. nowhere and never have I seen group. Each dish has a name such strong, healthy and hardy depending on which cuts of meat At the end of the meal they people as I did in my childhood. are on it. For example, bas tabak serve hot broth (sorpa) which, Anyway, that already is another is the main dish, zhambas tabak according to the elders, con- lifetime… has the cuts from the abdomen, tributes to easier digestion of the k’iuieu tabak is the dish with the meat. I have heard tell of special breast for the son-in-law, etc. dishes which were prepared only The meal, which begins with an by men when hunting. Along with invocation, concludes with the Beshbarmak is normally eaten ordinary meat cooked on a spit ritual bata beru (the bestowing of over an open fire, my imagination with the right hand. Eating with blessings) and dastarkhan kaiyru the hand allows one not only to is stirred by so-called esip. Elders (closure, literally the “return” of insist that the size of the stomach sense the temperature of the food the dastarkhan), after which (and thus be certain that the of any being equals the volume of people engage in relaxed its soft tissues. Thus the stomach mouth never will be burned) but conversation and music making. also assemble and combine of captured game would be stuffed according to taste the dough, a Any leftover food is taken away with its meat (with salt and wild piece of meat and some onion into and sorted, the onion removed, edible herbs), sewn up, buried in an appetizing portion. Moreover, the dough and meat stored sand and a fire lighted over it. The while sitting on the floor, it is separately. The broth is poured off, meat slowly braised literally for difficult to handle a fork with layers the bones cleaned and everything hours. The walls of the stomach of dough and pieces of meat on it left for the next day. Some people turned into a solid container, inside taken from the gravy without even prefer day-old beshbarmak, of which the aromatic and soft dripping on the table cloth, the rug when it tastes so good to eat the meat stewed in its own gravy. and one’s own clothing. In using cold meat with traces of aspic from Each time I heard these tales I a fork, it is necessary to hold out the broth in its folds along with regretted that I had not been born the left palm and inevitably scorch hot bread. Alternatively, one can a boy and thus could not go it with dripping gravy, which can cut the cooled and hardened hunting. then only be licked off or endlessly dough into narrow strips, fill it with Among the mythological cleaned with napkins. Kazakhs are small pieces of meat, and heat it hunting tales connected with food convinced that the right hand is in a little broth to prepare a special is the story about the great hunts especially suited to eating this dish, naryn, or fry the dough in of the past when a giant wild bull dish. There is even a specific joke. butter and eat it separately. When was cooked on a spit. It sup- They ask: “Why is the thumb diluted with water, the con- posedly happened in this way. The shorter than the rest of the fingers centrated broth serves as the base various kinds of game were and off to one side?” And they for soups called kespe, containing dressed, the heads and ex- answer: “So that it will be easier freshly rolled out dough which is tremities removed. Then they to shape the food into a portion, then wrapped into a roll and cut began to place one animal inside lift it to the mouth and then place into narrow strips. the other in a specific sequence. it in the mouth with a single I have always been struck by First they sewed a pigeon movement of the thumb.” this endless transformation and (kogershin) into a steppe grouse (Kazakhs know that it is especially reworking of one dish into others. (ular), then the grouse was sewn important to have a thumb when The basic principle is completely into a goat (eshki) the goat into a eating pilaf, since easily sticks waste-free production. Literally wild sheep (teke), and the sheep together in a lump.) everything went into the food. into a bull (buka), which had not been skinned. And all this The traditional concluding ritual Even the congealed fat removed together was roasted slowly all of the meal is now becoming but from the broth was melted and night over the fire, having been a memory — asatu, when the used for frying or in making dough hoisted on a truly gargantuan spit. elder feeds with his own hands and for bread. This fat, like butter, may Toward morning, the bull from his own dish all the young be stored for a long time in a dried practically was burned to a crisp unmarried participants in the sheep’s stomach, from whose and came apart like a ceramic meal, thus bestowing on them a walls it is believed some beneficial dish, its contents being cooked to blessing and wish for long life and substances are absorbed which perfection and ready to eat. sharing his social status. impart medicinal qualitities. Then the fat may be used to treat Children, who compete for the The confused details of this illnesses of the skin and joints. right before the meal to pour typically male dish — details water on the hands of guests for Just remembering the quantity whose symbolism already has washing and then offer a towel, of cholesterol I consumed in the been half forgotten — such as the

51 selection of animals, their number, create the impression that the stage is the addition of flour and the cutting apart of the joints of Kazakhs eat only meat, literally the mixing of a soft, non-sticking the animals and birds before the from morning to late at night. dough. At that point part of the start of the preparation process, Meat is indeed consumed by all dough is set aside in a covered and in an even greater degree — members of a Kazakh family, the container (best of all one made of the lighting of the fire and the all only exceptions being for pregnant clay or ceramic) as a reserve, and night vigil until dawn — connect women, who should not eat camel fat is added to the remainder, after in certain ways with an analogous meat or certain parts of a sheep. which the dough is formed into ritual of preparation of nauruz But in general to characterize the loaves. The leavening remains kozhe (a new year’s soup) by Kazakhs as exclusively meat alive for 7-10 days. Generally it is women in the night of the spring eaters would be a mistake. Fresh about then that it is time to bake equinox (March 21-22, the Nauruz meat is prepared primarily on the more bread for the family. holiday). Women cook soup all occasion of receiving guests; in night in a huge hemispherical the daily diet, they rely on grain The attitude of Kazakh women kettle, rythmically and without and milk products. to the ripening dough is indeed pause tracing the path of the sun maternal: it is protected from Unlike with meat, whose basic in the way they stir it with a paddle drafts, from sharp drops in qualities to a considerable degree (pispek) (from the verb pis — temperature, even from un- are predetermined by natural and cook, to be cooked, to stick into, necessary agitation. It is common seasonal conditions, products to stir up with a paddle). The to cover the dough with a specially made from flour are the main paddle is a stick with a cross-piece sewn blanket. It is even forbidden stage on which the cook may at the bottom (analogous to the to praise the rising dough, so as demonstrate her talents. There is stirring stick used for agitating not to jinx it, etc. a wide spectrum of and kumiss). In addition to the heaped other dishes made from flour, The cult of ancestors, which is up meat, generally they put into ranging from kuimak (a thin blin, strictly observed by Kazakhs, this soup five different grains — rather like a French crêpe), cooked requires regular preparation of millet, oats, wheat, rice and corn. on a flat frypan and made of liquid shelpek or zheti nan (seven However, the selection of mixed from and breads), round, sourdough flat ingredients may vary depending intended for immediate con- bread fried in fat. (The number on what is available (for example, sumption, to flat breads baked on of these breads should be a beans may substitute for corn), coals in two frypans, which hold multiple of the magic number and even the inclusion of water between them the sourdough. seven.) This is to be done on and meat in the number of Thursdays, or when one has countable ingredients may be Even today the most popular dreamed about deceased optional. Only women of child- food made with flour is balls of relatives, or in connection with a bearing age may participate in this dough fried in boiling oil (to a visit by guests who knew and ritual. At dawn, they give to the degree similar to small donuts). loved the deceased. It is believed elders the separately cooked head The so-called baursak or kyiksha that the spirit of the ancestors of an ox (who cooks it, where, and are not round but cut from rolled (aruakh) is fed by the aroma or how are not clear from the out sourdough. Leavening dough smoke from the frying of shelpek. stories), and then all eat nauruz with commercial yeast is a rather kozhe. There is an obvious late invention. Instead, people The best recipe for shelpek is correlation in the symbolism of used as a leavening ashytky, the to mix into soft dough one cup of these two somewhat parallel ritual remains of the previously over-ripe, even bubbling, sour dishes, the hunters’ and that for prepared bread. The art of making , which had been left nauruz. They both are prepared the initial ashytky was kept secret, overnight in a warm place, along at night, in both there must be five although it is possible to develop with a pinch of salt, a sprinkling ingredients. However, the one, for a certain general understanding of and two pinches of soda. men, is distinguished by the fixed about the stepwise process of The dough made in that way is nature of its components, even as creating such a sourdough starter covered and left in a warm place the second is marked by their at home. The first stage is the for an entire day. Then in the fluidity. Whereas the first is liquid leavening (ashytky kamyr) evening one must carefully and entirely restricted to the closed with salt in sour milk; the second tenderly knead it and divide it into male society of the hunt, the stage is the fermentation of this seven portions, roll out the balls second involves exclusively leavening in a warm place; the with a large rolling pin and let women, although in the final third, the feeding of the leavening them rest, then fry them on both reckoning it is in principle open to with sugar or honey; the fourth sides in a deep frypan filled half the whole community. stage is an inelastic dough, mixed way with oil. It is with flour until it is about half important to have the fat at the To tell about meat products may prepared (but still sticky); the fifth right temperature, which can be

52 determined by tossing into the oil blankets and left to ferment butter creates a new delicacy — a bit of flour, which should sizzle overnight. It is essential not to let kospa. (The more delicate irimshik but not burn. Fat that is too hot it cool or to shake it. By morning is obtained from fermenting of chars the bread and does not allow there forms in the pan a product steamed milk in a calve’s stomach it time to breathe; insufficiently which compares with thick yogurt, and by subsequently boiling it hot oil begins to absorb into the which Kazakhs call katyk. Its down, although this technique is dough and makes the bread too consistency is such that when a already becoming a thing of the greasy and heavy. The bread spoonful is removed, whey quickly past.) should be enjoyable and light—it collects in its place. If the katyk is eaten hot, while declaring is passed right away through Yet one more dairy dish, which “Kabyl bolsyn” (“May it be cheesecloth, the remaining is especially appreciated in the hot accepted!”). coagulate forms so-called suzbe, summer, is a broth called kozhe from which all the acidity has been — a drink fermented from airan The process of the stepwise removed with the whey. This and boiled grain, There several transformation of the end product delicacy is a special favorite of varieties of summer broths, which can be seen especially clearly in children and elders. In order to differ depending on the kind of dairy dishes. store suzbe, one must suspend it grain: tary kozhe — millet; bidai The Kazakhs use milk from all and allow the remaining liquid to kozhe — wheat; zhugeri kozhe — types of animals in varying drain, then mix it with flour and corn; arpa kozhe — oat. These combinations. Nowadays the salt which have been roasted, cold soups even compete with majority of milk products derive form it into balls and dry it on the what the Kazakhs consider to be from cow’s milk, since it is the roof of a porch in the sun. The the royal drinks — kymys (mare’s most readily obtainable. Kazakhs result is tushy-kurt — mild , milk) and shubat (camel milk). observe a single rule for all types usually rather high in fat content Well, maybe not quite…they are of milk: before beginning any and easily chewable. If katyk is so highly rated only if kumiss and preparation, the milk has to be stirred, so as to activate the shubat should not be available. scalded. Otherwise it is considered process of fermentation by Starting even as long ago as raw, unripe, and not brought to introducing air, and over the next Herodotus, much has been written life by heat. Of course this reflects 10-15 days new katyk is added, about fermented mare’s milk popular experience, since raw milk the result is a different product — being an inseparable part of may contain harmful bacteria. so-called airan, which one can nomadic culture. Here I would The cream is removed from the drink as it is or, if diluted by half note though two characteristics of boiled milk and butter made from with water, make into a drink kumiss which are not generally it in wooden churns.5 At one time called shalap. When airan has known. First of all, it is a tried the butter was preserved in the been drained, salted, rolled into and true means of treating stomachs of sheep, in which it not small balls and dried in the sun, tuberculosis. Even today there are only did not become rancid, but one gets ashy kurt — salty sour special kumiss treatment clinics, even breathed through the pores cheese, which then is broken into like sanatoria, in the Kazakh city of the skin, absorbing healing pieces and will keep as long as one of Borovoe (Burabai) in Kokchetau enzymes from the tissue of the wishes. Kurt which has been district and also in Bashkiria. A stomach. Over time such butter broken up may be added to broth, second quality of kumiss is that it became as well a healing which, in addition to sourness, is an aphrodisiac and remedy for ointment, which helped in skin acquires healing qualities and thus impotence and nervous disorders. diseases and in healing wounds. is used to treat head colds. (Since Such giants of Russian culture as it makes one sweat, the broth Lev Tolstoi and Sergei Rach- In working with milk, the made from kurt eliminates maninov in their day underwent primary task is the gradual coughing and fever.) Airan also is successful treatment with Bashkir elimination of superfluous liquid. diluted with sheep’s milk, which kumiss. Here again we have an obvious thickens in this mixture (two kinds process of thickening, con- of milk) and adds lightness as if There are certain misun- centration, and condensation — of beaten eggwhites, the resulting derstandings generally connected the change in the consistency of dish known as akta. with the neophyte’s first attempt the end product, achieved by to join the clan of kumiss means of fermentation. Sour Even the whey which remains enthusiasts. Its taste is unusual cream is added to warm milk (the after straining, rich in proteins and and unexpected for the taste temperature level is easily minerals, is not thrown away. buds, which anticipate the checked — the hand should feel When boiled down to dryness in a somewhat sweet delicacy of neither heat nor cold), mixed, and cauldron, it forms an orange- something like milk. It would be then wrapped in a specially sewn colored grainy mass, irimshik, a better approach to expect a felt cover or woolen scarves and which when mixed with melted taste which is reminiscent of beer,

53 whose varieties are indeed infinite. contains from its inception homemade dishes are, for So it is with kumiss, which varies, substances which allow it to example, pilaf, beshbarmak, for example, with the season — remain unaltered — according to shelpek and baursak. summer, autumn and winter — the Kazakh culinary under- and with the length of standing, it does not age quickly One of the dishes which has fermentation — young, one-day — despite the fact that in fresh been part of the required (saumal), two day, i.e., already milk quite naturally every day and repertoire of my family and ripe and somewhat intoxicating hour there are living processes at which accompanies me from city (tunemel), and finally, aged — work. I remember well how to city, from country to country truly intoxicating (ushkundik). Kazakh elders greeted with and from continent to continent is When first trying kumiss — this is skepticism the first refrigerators dairy suzbe, analogous to the advice for kumiss neophytes — and freezers. Although they had American farmers’ cheese one should start with small such great economic benefits, at “Friendship.” The variant of the portions and not on an empty the same time, as was believed in recipe adapted to American stomach, in order not to upset the the villages, they forced food ingredients is remarkably simple. digestion. products in a somewhat be- Pour into a heavy saucepan6 three wildered fashion to freeze in one-liter cartons (three quarts) of One of the secrets of good strange, uncomfortable and Bulgarian cultured , kumiss is careful stirring. In the unnatural poses. It was as though place it in the evening in a cold days when kumiss had a special they were seized suddenly and oven, turn on the heat set at 350 place in a traditional yurt, a high unexpectedly by freezing and degrees (F), and cook for exactly leather bag of kumiss with a forcibly detained… one hour. Then remove and cool; paddle (pispek) in it usually stood let it rest and settle until morning. to the right of the entrance on a In considering the current stage In the morning, holding the mass wooden platform. Each person of the development of Kazakh which has formed with the hand, entering the yurt and passing by food, I can appreciate more clearly carefully pour off the whey (which it was expected to stir the kumiss how far the cuisine of the nomads can be used for preparing bread with this paddle. When kumiss has departed from its traditional or bliny or for cosmetic purposes) was poured, it was done in a sources. Possibly just as far as and serve — the suzbe is ready! steady stream using a special ladle the nomads themselves have Lovers of more solid suzbe can and raising it high to allow the moved… Instead of interaction drain the mass using cheesecloth. stream of kumiss to fall freely, with food — interaction which is At this stage of preparation, suzbe absorb oxygen and foam. very like basic human stages of is an ideal . One can add development such as recognition, to it, according to taste, sour Shubat (fermented camel milk) attachment, touching, conception, cream or yogurt, jam or dried fruit is lighter, softer and has a higher birth, growth, transformation, (fresh raisins are especially good), fat content than kumiss. This disappearance and resurrection — an apple or a banana. If one drink is not so alcoholic and is very there is the consumption of pre- strains it further, one obtains a nutritious. Shubat is especially prepared , prepared by new and quickly prepared dish. valuable for exhaustion and strangers. That is, it is con- For this one needs half a pound of stomach or intestinal problems as sumption of products which a suzbe, one egg, one tablespoon well as for diabetes. When person obtains without observing of sugar and one tablespoon of fermenting, camel milk does not and even knowing the processes flour. Mix it all together, and make become more concentrated or of their preparation. Modern seven balls from the mixture, solidify, but retains a naturally cuisine has become impersonal dredge them in flour, gently pat thick, almost velvety uniformity. If and part of the inexorable stream them with the hand and fry in one boils this milk, it begins to of mass industry and culture. vegetable oil on both sides until a curdle and the resulting mass, Food (tamak, as) for oneself, one’s golden crust forms — thus one which is sweet and light, becomes family and one’s guests has been gets syrniki (irimshik salyp a special dish, balkaimak (“honey transformed into a product (azyk- pisirgen nan) or cheese fritters. cream”). tulik, produktylary!), identical for They are very good served with each and every person. Natural kumiss and shubat are sour cream, preserves or honey. practically unobtainable outside There are, however, house- From the same suzbe, yet further the areas where they traditionally wives who try to preserve, if not squeezed and drained, one can were produced, just as the in all its richness even prepare homemade kurt. majority of Kazakh dairy dishes and original form, in practice For this one needs to mix with the cannot be prepared other than on impossible, then at least some suzbe, which has been sqeezed the . The apparent components of it along with the dry, two tablespoons of dry explanation is the odd fact that the procedures for their preparation at roasted flour, two tablespoons of whole milk with which one begins home. Among these still popular melted butter, half a teaspoon of

54 salt. Shape the resulting mass into minutes. Pilaf is cooked tightly shape, as is the case with the elongated “” (as always, covered. All other details are left Chinese wok, allows the flame of making seven of them), and let to creativity and experience. the campfire (or gas burner) to them dry in the sun while covered heat the cauldron equally, and the with cheescloth. That’s all there Let me share a few little thickness of the wall retains the is to making kurt. (Incidentally, secrets: 1. Pilaf will be tastier if temperature well. The closest Kazakh children like kurt just as one adds apart from the meat result can be obtained by the use much as modern city kids like itself a few lamb ribs (the bones of a Dutch oven. However, we chewing gum.) intensify the flavor); 2. one should admit that Kazakh students in braise the meat before boiling off their dormitories today prepare Probably the most productive the excess moisture; 3. it is better pilaf in pots and in deep frypans. time for traditional , to salt the meat the night before as I recall, was the period of the using it; 4. twenty minutes after Kazakh pilaf varies, and only 1970s and beginning of the 1980s, adding the boiling water to the when all are taken into account when new dishes appeared, along rice, use a flat spoon to shape the can one form a kind of idealized with the relative abundance of rice into the center of the pot like image of what it should be. To a ingredients and access to new the dome of a yurt and with the greater or lesser degree then any technology such as gas stoves, handle create an opening in the given version is a reasonable ovens and refrigerators. In the center going right down to the approximation. The same can be process of enriching and varying bottom — rather like the smoke said about any kind of popular the Kazakh table, of course a role hole in a yurt — in order that the creation: for example, the ideal was played by the interaction of rice can breathe; 5. when the form of a song is composed of the Kazakhs with the foods of a good plates have been laid and the totality of all its variants, and it is many other peoples of Central family called to the table, with the precisely this fact which makes Asia. It was then that manty burner turned off, cover the pilaf one want to listen to it again and (Chinese ) became a with a clean towel and then once again… regular feature of Kazakh food, as again the pot lid in order to allow did (Dungan from the pilaf to rest. The towel The kazan is the ideal vessel for stretched dough), Siberian absorbs excess moisture. In five preparing yet another popular dish , Russo-Ukrainian borshch to ten minutes remove the lid and today, dymlama. In conclusion, with beets, and also a variety of the towel, carefully mix the lower let me share the recipe. canned preserves (marinated and layers of meat with the rice, and Dymlama is meat braised with salted tomatoes, cucumbers, serve. root . Cut the meat apples, cabbage, mushrooms), (lamb or beef) into large chunks, and piquant Korean marinades Yet one more opportunity for quickly sear it in fat, add onion, which still fill several aisles in the creativity is to add herbs salt, pepper (or other herbs) and city market of Almaty. The (barberry, cumin, peas, nuts, then add layers of various root abundance of rice grown in the raisins), but here we already are vegetables (lightly salted), sliced Kazakh south, especially in returning to the more refined pilaf to the size of a hen’s egg. This is Kyzylorda, has made pilaf, of the Uzbek neighbor, who so best done in the following especially, almost daily fare for the generously received that sequence, from the heavier and Kazakh family. apocryphal Kazakh of the anecdote with which we began our firmer to the lighter and softer: Kazakh pilaf is very simple to journey into the world of Kazakh carrot, potato, rutabaga (or prepare. It contains five basic cuisine… turnip), beets, eggplant (in its ingredients: rendered fat, mutton, skin), green cabbage cut into onion, carrots and well washed It goes without saying, that in wedges including the core, and rice, over which is poured boiling contemporary conditions, es- then at the top tomatoes, split in water. Salt and pepper to taste. pecially abroad — for example, in half, and bunches of parsley and Preparation time is an hour and a the U.S. — the demanding dill (which will be discarded when half: 20 minutes to clean and slice traditional cook will complain that the dish is done). Do not add even the vegetables, 30 minutes to the mutton is not the same, the a drop of water! Cover tightly with braise the meat (the meat is rice is not the same, the water is a lid and braise one and a half to braised separately for 10 minutes, chlorinated, etc. However, these two or even two and a half hours with the onion for another 10 excuses are not important for the over low heat. Do not open the minutes, and then another 10 true master of traditional pilaf; lid, and do not stir the contents. minutes with the carrots). After rather, what is important is the pot When the dish is done, the meat adding the rice and water (to a in which pilaf should be prepared. is completely tender and has level of one finger’s width above We are talking here of the kazan, absorbed all the juices, and each the rice), cook for another 40 the heavy metal cauldron with a vegetable retains its shape, color minutes. All in all, just 90 hemispherical bottom. That and taste. There is not much

55 gravy, but it is exceptionally tasty. as the creation of the world. That Notes As far as quantities go, one should is, we are talking here about food use approximately the same as the embodiment of the 1. This article was translated from weight of each ingredient. The organizing principle of the world, Russian by Daniel C. Waugh. choice of vegetables may vary like the above-mentioned kumiss 2. Incidentally, I never once heard with the season. The best time is paddle, which turkic cultures this story from Uzbeks, and when autumn when the vegetables have consider to be in the category of I told it I sensed their be- just been dug out. the world tree. It is no accident wilderment and embarrassment. that the process of preparing Of course it is good to have kumiss is sometimes compared recipes already at hand, and the 3. The Kazakhs themselves call metaphorically with a shamanistic more the better, since that way this dish et (meat), and act. there is a choice. Yet I believe beshbarmak (five fingers) is a that if the marvellous recipes of Underlying traditional food later Russian borrowing, derived the cuisine of our sedentarized culture is the entire traditional from the fact that a dish should Central Asian relatives should with culture of a people. It is not only have a name which distinguishes time become part of world cuisine, a culture of food, but food itself is it from the ingredients. that in no way would diminish the culture. 4. In a similar fashion childless culinary creativity rooted in the parents adopt orphans as their centuries old life experience of the About the author sons or daughters. nomads. At very least I would hope that not only the perfect final Educated in Almaty, Moscow and 5. The second half of the 20th product, but the very process of St. Petersburg, Alma Kunan- century saw the introduction of its the interaction amongst food, baeva is a Visiting Professor at innovations in the churning of people, and society at large will Stanford University’s Department butter at home. Hence the unique not be ignored by those who today of Cultural and Social Anthropol- Kazakh popular method of take an interest in our experience. ogy, where she teaches courses churning butter in first-generation Then it will become clear that on the culture of Central Asian vertical washing machines with an along with the effort to have an nomads. She has written the prin- agitator on the bottom. This has always perfect, easily repeated cipal entries on Kazakh traditional no effect on the quality of the and reliably guaranteed dish which music for the New Grove’s Dictio- butter, which, when collected, is will be completely satisfying, there nary of Music and Musicians and well rinsed and then, as a rule, is another pleasure, that of the Garland Encyclopedia of World lightly salted. unpredictability and experimen- Music, published a book, The Soul tation. There is an impressionistic of Kazakhstan, and been involved 6. I bought mine for 25 cents at a subtlety of detail and a minimal in a broad range of educational flea market in Berkeley. It is an amount of reflection in the infinite programs, among them ones aluminim pressure cooker without variations of one and almost the sponsored by the Aga Khan Trust a lid and missing its handle. same dish created without a for Culture. She is also President recipe. Its essence is to create of Silk Road House in Berkeley, a human warmth and even the soul. pioneering non-profit cultural and Thus the culinary arts become educational center supported by elevated to mythological stature the Silkroad Foundation.

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