Tourism Guide for the , Contents Lushoto History, natural, cultural & built heritage 72 Attractions 73 Facts & Figures 75 Information & Contacts 76

Korogwe History, natural, cultural & built heritage 82 Ndumi Village Ruins Attractions 83 Facts & Figures 85

Foreword 4 Information & Contacts 85 Tanga Region History, natural, cultural History, natural, cultural & built heritage 6 & built heritage 86 Facts & Figures 11 Attractions 86 Organized Tourism Stakeholders 12 Amani Nature Reserve 87 Facts & Figures 91 Tanga City Information & Contacts 91 History, natural, cultural & built heritage 18 92 Attractions 24 Facts & Figures 31 Mkinga, & Kilindi 96 Information & Contacts 33

Tanga Coast Coelacanth Marine Park 38 & Ushongo History, natural, cultural & built heritage 42 Maziwe Island Marine Reserve 44 Attractions 46 Facts & Figures 49 Information & Contacts 50

Saadani National Park 58

Usambara Mountains History, natural, cultural & built heritage 64 its historic heritage to become a major Foreword tourist attraction on Mainland Tanzania.

The Regional As a newcomer on the international Commissioner, and regional tourism map Tanga takes Tanga Region the opportunity to get it right from the start. The emerging tourism industry in Tanga Region is led by a cooperation Captured by the term “Geotourism” by between local private and public tourism National Geographics Traveller, exciting stakeholders. They are determined to new forms of travel are developing help residents and local governments to in the world that sustain and enhance recognise, preserve and use the tourism the unique character of a destination potential of the immense beauty of - its environment, culture, heritage, Tanga Region: the natural environment Traditional Dhow aesthetics and the well-being of its and diverse ecosystems of the Indian residents. Ocean coast, islands, mountains and the Maasai Steppe that all form part of Geotourism includes Ecological, Nature, Tanga Region. Cultural and Heritage Tourism. What they all have in common is that they In addition, Tanga Region also has offer visitors a wider range of authentic significant, valuable and unique built experiences off the beaten track, in heritage in its historical area. Nowhere addition to and beyond the traditional in East Africa exist historical buildings wildlife viewing and beach holidays. of heritage architecture and in large numbers as found in Tanga. And nowhere By enhancing a geographic location is this historical area so well planned and with its nature, history and culture, and developed as in Tanga City. involving local residents as hosts rather than servants, Geotourism creates a Let us all work together and develop the win-win situation. These new forms of significant tourism potential of Tanga Ushongo Beach tourism help local people recognise and Region in order to preserve and make use preserve the immense value of their own of marine and terrestrial environments local environment, unique cultures and and historical heritage! historical heritage, by carefully developing them into tourism products that generate considerable additional income. Maj. Gen. (rtd) Said Said Kalembo Regional Commissioner, Tanga Region Recent examples of successful Geotourism in East Africa include , where tourism has helped immensely to save the famous World Heritage site Historic Stone Town. Bagamoyo is now also following the same path and has started restoring Tanga City 4 5 Usambara Mountains reach up In the scramble for Africa over the to 2,000 meters above sea level last decades of the 19th century, and are part of the international German commercial interests and biodiversity hotspot “Eastern Arc later the German government Mountains” with their rich endemic conquered the inland, bought the flora and fauna. Particularly famous coastal strip from the Sultan and are the “African Violets” (called developed the colony as ‘German “Usambara Violets” in Germany). East Africa’. With its protected port Other attractions include Maasai and fertile hinterland, especially and Paré settlements in Handeni in the Usambara mountains, and and the famous Tanga Tanga became a centre of sisal estates. German colonization and also an administrative centre up to 1890 History when was made the Tanga Region Tanga on the Tanzanian northern capital of the emerging colony. coast close to the Kenyan border has History, natural, a fascinating history as one cultural & built sandbanks. They are bordered by a of the oldest settlements heritage range of uninhabited islands - some along the East African Tanga Region covers 27,348 km2 with historical lighthouses and ruins coast. The word “Tanga” (3% of the total area of the country) such as Ulenge Island and Toten means “sail” in the Kiswahili and has an estimated population Island. Some offer accommodation language, an indication that of nearly two million inhabitants, in small resorts. the protected Tanga Bay has with at least 300.000 living in over many centuries offered Tanga City. While most people in The many interesting destinations a safe haven for local fishers the hinterland are small farmers to visit in and around Tanga Region and the thriving Indian Ocean and livestock keepers, the coastal include: historic Tanga City centre, trade along the East African rural inhabitants live off fishing off-shore islands - Toten, Ulenge, coast. Another translation of and small-scale farming. Others are Yambe and Karange, Maziwe Island “Tanga” refers to the Bondei Lushoto (formerly Wilhelmsthal) engaged in trades, boat building, off Pangani, nearby Amboni Caves, word “farm”. salt harvesting and charcoal making. Gallanos Hot Springs and Tongoni Tanga has the second largest port of Ruins. In 1631, people from the area joined Rapid colonial infrastructural and Tanzania. the Mazrui dynasty of Mombasa in economic development followed Tanga Regions hosts several protected their fight against Portuguese rule from 1889 after the end of the The region offers a wide range of areas: Saadani and Mkomazi National and remained under their influence bloody ‘Bushiri war’ - an uprising of beautiful places to visit: the long Parks, Amani Nature Reserve, thereafter. Tanga and Pangani local Arab rulers (accused of being Indian Ocean coastline with its Coelacanth Marine Park and Maziwe became important trading centres slave-traders by the Germans) and sheltered bays and lagoons, such Island Marine Reserve. for slaves and ivory when the Sultan their followers against the German as Moa Bay, Manza Bay, Kwale Bay, of Muskat and Oman moved to occupation and the sale of the Tanga Bay and Mwambani Bay; The region also has lush mangrove Zanzibar in 1832 and controlled a coast by the Sultan. To open up the Kigombe, Pangani and Ushongo forests, pristine semi-arid forests coastal strip of 10 miles inland of hinterland and especially the fertile have marvellous beaches - all with along the coast and on the islands. the East African coast. and cool Usambara mountains fringing and offshore coral reefs and Tropical rainforests of the scenic for economic development and 6 7 trade, a railway was built from Throughout the colonial history, the Tanga to Moshi and a road network main source of Tanga’s economic Sisal, developed, including the scenic wealth was Sisal, which was the economic base of Tanga’s ‘past glory’ winding paved road from Mombo introduced from Florida, US in 1893 up the mountains to the emerging and soon turned Tanga Region into Tanga’s wealth was for decades founded on Sisal (Agave sisalana), district centre Wilhelmsthal (now the World’s main producer and the “white gold of Africa”. Sisal, a hard natural fibre is indigenous Lushoto). Kiswahili was made the exporter of this profitable crop. to South and Central America, weighs about 150 kilograms when official language of the colony and This lasted for half a century up to fully grown and much resembles a giant pineapple. Sisal plants were African boys were offered education Independence, when nationalization introduced from Florida to East Africa in 1893 by a German, Dr. Hindorf. in the (still existing) Tanga School to resulted in the collapse of the One thousand plants were sent but only 62 survived the journey join the lower ranks of the colonial industry within a few years. (reportedly smuggled in the folds of a large coloured umbrella). Sisal administration. Tropical diseases is a very particular crop, which were researched and a public health World War I brought a massive is drought and disease resistant system was introduced with large- disruption of the economic and requires much sunlight and scale screening and early forms of development of the then prospering a narrow range of moisture. treatment of cholera, tuberculosis, colony. Germany and Britain fought Sisal Farm (1920’s) malaria and sleeping sickness among a long-drawn-out proxy war in The long spiky sisal leaves are others. order to tie up each others’ forces cut by hand, starting usually at and keep them off the European 2 to 3 years after planting, and Tanga town was developed with a battlegrounds. In November 1914 then annually for up to 8 years, when the plant dies after producing range of public, commercial and Tanga made military history with the a long flowering pole that is used for low-cost roofing poles. The sisal famous “Battle of Tanga”: ‘flowers’ are actually seedlings that can be planted directly into the with help of the newly built soil. Harvesting is an arduous task and workers have to be careful of railway the German colonel the sharp black spike at the end of each leaf. Fibres are removed von Lettow-Vorbeck shifted from the leaves in a factory by crushing and scraping. They are then overnight his troops of dried in the sun, graded and packed in bales for export. Sisal fibres settlers and Askari soldiers are turned into ropes, twines, cords, fishnets, mats and carpets, and to Tanga to defend the town more recently, insulation in luxury cars. Modern biogas technology against British warships. The allows using the waste from sisal production for power generation.

Katani House, Tanga City Germans won this battle even though British-Indian The stem oozes a juice rich in starch and sugar, which the Mexicans residential buildings. At the end of troops outnumbered the German ferment into strong liquor called pulque, a practice not known in the 19th century Tanga already had forces 8 to 1. The British claimed East Africa. around 5,000 inhabitants. It was afterwards that the Germans were an important centre for trade and helped by wild bees that got upset By 1956, half the world’s sisal was produced in East Africa (225,000 settlement together with Dar es by the shelling their nests in the tons), with roughly 186,000 of these from colonial Tanganyika. In Salaam, Ujiji, Tabora, Bagamoyo, trees. They actually stung and Tanga Region, sisal covered 5% of the land area. The sisal industry Pangani and Kilwa Kivinje - the chased all troops on the ground. was very labour-intensive and attracted workers from other regions, latter five being either slaving in particular Tabora, Mtwara, and Morogoro. The thriving economy ports or caravan crossings. By 1913, The British retaliated a year and trade also brought a sizeable population of Europeans and Asians, Tanga was the fourth largest town later by bottling up and sinking and turned Tanga into a tribal, religious and racial melting pot. The in Tanzania; by Independence in the legendary German warship town grew rapidly in the 1950s (at an annual rate of roughly 12%) 1961 it was second. “Königsberg” in the Rufiji delta, before settling down to its current level. 8 9 thus gaining control of the coastal He introduced a one-party state From the early nineties, waters of the German colony. Cut and nationalised the economy. the Tanzanian economy off from supplies of their homeland His policy of ‘’Ujamaa and African started recovering and is and often outnumbered, the Socialism’ was popular among - now growing fast. Germans are said to have invented and very generously supported by modern guerrilla warfare that avoids - European left-wing intellectuals But Tanga Region has not and governments, and to yet caught up with its a certain extent also by former glory; Tanga City the Soviet Union and the remains a relatively quiet, socialist countries of the laid-back town - something Eastern Block. that, ironically, is one of the attraction for tourists Local Handicrafts This change of policy after who much prefer peaceful Climate Independence had various and unspoilt places off the The coastal area is warm with an impacts on Tanzania, beaten track. average temperature of around 28° Bombo Hospital, Tanga City and particularly on the C (82° F). Sea breezes make the prosperous Tanga Region, climate very pleasant all year. The open battle and ties the adversary’s due to its relatively export- Facts & Figures central plateau around Korogwe troops with hit-and-run tactics and oriented economy. Most sisal and Tanga Region and Handeni experiences hot days rapid movements over vast areas. other plantations, many businesses and cool nights. In the hilly country According to a popular myth, and buildings in Tanga town were Location between the coast and the northern fighting in East Africa continued for nationalised. Villages were obliged Situated at the north-eastern corner highlands temperatures can drop at two weeks after the Allied forces to move and combine their land of Tanzania, the Region of Tanga nights below 10° C (50° F) in the victory in Europe, because the two for communal farms in the so- links the well known Kilimanjaro “winter season” (June to August). armies could not be found in the called villagization campaign. As Region with Dar es Salaam in the The hottest months are from October bush, being so far away from any food and cash crops had to be sold south and in the north. to February. The main rainy season means of communication! Germany to the government at fixed and Tanga offers its visitors a great is from April to late May where it lost what was considered her most mostly very low prices only, farmers variety of landscapes: from the rains mostly at night, leaving the favoured colony and Britain ruled stopped producing for the market stretched coast with mangroves day with bright sunshine. Tanganyika under a UN mandate and returned to the subsistence and long white-sandy beaches to until Independence in 1961. economy. Within a decade, the the lush mountains covered with Population & Area formerly thriving economy of Tanga rainforests that are overlooking the (census 2002) 1961 - Today collapsed. The downturn of the Sisal vast and hilly inland. District Population Area (km²) Mwalimu (Teacher) Julius Kambarage Industry was also accelerated by a Pangani 43.920 1.700 Nyerere became the first President decline of demand due to upcoming Tanga is one of the 26 regions of Mkinga 106.837 3.000 of independent Tanganyika (called synthetic fibres. Tanzania. Its Regional Headquarters Kilindi 143.792 5.500 Tanzania after the union with is in Tanga City, the biggest town Muheza 171.568 2.300 Zanzibar in 1964) and he remains Nyerere realised that the country and the economic centre of the Tanga City 242.640 600 a national legend until today. He was in trouble and stepped down Region. Tanga Region is divided into Handeni 248.633 8.000 is seen as one of the few African in 1986 to allow his successors to eight districts, each having their Korogwe 260.238 3.100 leaders who could not be accused of liberalise the economy, and later own administration. Lushoto 418.652 4.000 corruption, and who resigned from introduce multi-party policies, Region 1.636.280 28.356 power voluntarily and peacefully. which followed in the mid nineties. Tanzania 42.000.000 945.203 10 11 Biggest Towns Organized Tourism Tanga Cultural Ilya Tours and Safaris Sed Adventures (census 2002) & Heritage Central Market, Tours & Safaris Tanga City(growth rate 4.6) 242,640 Stakeholders Tourism Cluster Ocean Breeze Hotel opp. NMB Bank, Korogwe 44,538 Tanga Region The Tanga Cultural P.O. Box 6128, Tanga Sun Hotel Muheza 34,220 and Heritage Tourism ( + 255 (0)786 671 163 ( + 255 (0)784 689 848 Handeni 18,470 TATONA Cluster initiative is +255 (0)713 560 569 +255 (0)754 826 823 Lushoto 17,660 Founded in 2008, the Tanga Tourism an organised effort to +255 (0)784 660 569 @ info@ Pangani 6,908 Network Association (TATONA) increase the growth @ post@ anna@ takes the lead in efforts to protect and competitiveness ilyatours.com sedadventures.com Main Access Points and develop the tourism potential of the stakeholders www.ilyatours.com TAYODEA Tour Care vRoad involved in Tourism in RH Travels near Bus Stop, Excellent tarmac roads to Arusha, Tanga. domestic Flights Agent Florida Hotel Moshi, Nairobi (Kenya) and to Street No. 4, near ( + 255 (0)27 26 44350 Dar es Salaam Tanga Cultural & Heritage Mkwakwani Lodge, @ youthall2000@ Good all-weather road to Mombasa Tourism Cluster ( + 255 (0)653 192 172 yahoo.com (Kenya) Independence Avenue +255 (0)27 26 45843 www.tayodea.or.tz (Air P.O.Box 5293 @ rhtravels@ Community Care & Airport in Tanga City Baobab Tree Tanga, Tanzania hotmail.com Friendship Association Airstrips at Ushongo/Pangani of the natural ecosystems, built ( + 255 (0)27 264 6114 Starworld Travels&Tours Green Valley Hotel and Saadani heritage and culture of Tanga +255 (0)784 286 158 int. & dom. Flight Agents ( + 255 (0)784 861 969 oBoat Region. By creating regional and +255 (0)655 540 126 opp. Post Office @ cocafatz@ From/to Tanga City - Pemba international linkages to tourism @ info@ ( + 255 (0)27 26 45597 yahoo.com From/to Pangani - Pemba + Zanzibar markets in order to boost Tanga’s tangacultural @ starworldtravel_ economic development, TATONA heritagetourism [email protected] Korogwe Distances has the mission to develop tourism .com TAYODEA Tourist Lutindi Cultural (from Tanga City) that is culturally sensitive, socially Information Center Ecotourism Group Dar es Salaam 355 km responsible, ecologically friendly Market Street, near Msambiazi village, Arusha 440 km and environmentally sustainable. Tour Operators opp. NMB Bank, Tanga 13 km off main road Kilimanjaro Int. Airport 390 km The association comprises members & Information ( + 255 (0)27 26 44350 ( + 255 (0)27 26 41040 Moshi 350 km from Tour Operators and Guides, Centres +255 (0)713 260 027 +255 (0)764 414 491 Mombasa 200 km Hoteliers, Restaurants, Transport @ tayodea@ +255 (0)753 101 618 Pangani 45 km Companies, Manufacturers of Tanga yahoo.com @ lutindi-hospital@ Lushoto 160 km Tourism products and other BlueMango Expeditions www.tayodea.or.tz elct.org Korogwe 95 km stakeholders. Tours & Safaris Handeni 165 km Independence Avenue, Lushoto Pangani Muheza 35 km Tanga Tourism Network Association Sachak House Friends of Pangani Tourist Independence Avenue P.O. Box 661, Tanga Usambara Society Information Centre P.O.Box 6164 ( + 255 (0)717 032 496 Main Street, ( +255 (0)27 263 0006 Tanga, Tanzania +255 (0)716 919 686 opp. NMB Bank @ www.pangani ( +255 (0)27 26 45254 @ cindy@ ( + 255 (0)27 2640 132 tourism.com +255 (0)713 375 367 mathias@ +255 (0)784 420 310 @ [email protected] bluemango @ usambaras2000@ expeditions.com hotmail.com Swimming Children www.tangatourism.com 12 13 14 15 Coral Rag Coast

Mangroves

Rice Fields Sisal Plantation near Usambaras 16 17 rule in Tanga, where most colonial All buildings have a large open officers, settlers and soldiers died courtyard at the back for kitchen, very young from malaria or in the toilets and storage. war. Tanga saw the development of Historical building designs these buildings at the turn of the Tanga has two major types of 19th century. Different from other historic buildings of the German East African towns, the historic (1881-1916) and British (1916-1961) town of Tanga was developed in a colonial periods, robust colonial planned manner, with streets and government buildings and private roads clearly demarcated and open commercial-residential houses. areas for parks and other recreation The latter are mostly two-storey provided for. Because of this, Tanga buildings lining the streets of the is still considered the best planned Tanga City historic centre and were built by town in the country. More than half the local merchant community of the historic buildings are still History, natural, as a fusion of coastal Swahili standing and inhabited. cultural & built at the seafront next to the CRDB styles, Indian and Arabic heritage bank (now a private building) and architecture. a row of similar buildings lining this Tanga’s historical centre street, the Usambara Courthouse, The architectural designs Tanga City has unique resources for the stunning residence of the are over a hundred years cultural and heritage tourism. The German District Commissioner old, and similar to colonial historic centre between the railway of Tanga St Paul-Illaire that now buildings along East Africa’s line and the port is a treasure-trove houses the Palm Court Hotel B&B Indian Ocean coastline in Old Tanga Club of architectural heritage that is (on the road to the Harbours Club) towns such as Zanzibar, special in Tanzania. and close-by the now ruined Cliff Mikindani, Bagamoyo, Block of the Bombo Hospital, the Pangani and Mombasa and Many of the impressive former first hospital in East Africa (1901). Lamu in Kenya. Typically, colonial administration and other Others are Katani House, the Old they have a raised “baraza” public buildings as well as private Tanga School and Mkonge Hotel (the (veranda), thick pillars, commercial-residential houses former Sisal Planters’ Club) and the carved solid timber doors, small are over a century old and still Ismaili Jamat Khana and more. louvered wooden windows and They also reflect a particular in use. The so-called Regional A few monuments remaining of the intricately designed wooden lifestyle of the people who inhabit Block, the former office of the German colonial period can be found balconies. The walls are up to two them up to today. One example is German District Commissioner was in Jamhuri Park, at the seafront feet thick; the roof is raised and the use of the ground floor veranda recently rehabilitated and is being close to the market and opposite opens on the sides to allow the in front of the house opening to the developed into the Tanga Museum. of the CRDB bank: the Clock tower ocean breeze to cool the house. road. People still follow the Swahili Other beautiful surviving landmark and close by the Marine monument, The walls are built with fossil coral cultural tradition of relaxing on buildings, some in urgent need of built in 1889 to commemorate the stone, sand and lime; the ceiling is this shaded baraza, different from repair and maintenance, include sailors who died during the Bushiri made of mangrove poles and lime Mombasa and Zanzibar, where roads the once best hotel in town, the war. Three graveyards also bear plaster, the doors and windows from were often built rather narrow and legendary former Hotel Kaiserhof witness of the European colonial locally available hardwood timber. left no room for verandas. 18 19 Then followed the The German Colonial Period rehabilitation of the impressive former German Public buildings are solid and impressive, making their District Commissioner’s presence felt wherever they stand. The Germans office, the so-called Regional developed a special colonial architecture for tropical Block, which will become areas that included elements of Arabic design from places a museum of history and like Zanzibar, and made maximum use of local materials culture of Tanga. such as coral stone, mangroves, timber, sand and stones, After Urithi had set an and decorating the buildings with intricate arches, example on how to restore Court House mosaics, elaborate masonry and wood craftsmanship. historical buildings with very limited funding, other A sad incidence was the collapse of property owners and organizations the Sakina Building on the corner The British Colonial Period also recognised the value of the of Swahili and India Streets. This architectural heritage and followed building was being fully rehabilitated Buildings were mostly erected after the Second World suit. Rather than pulling such by the owner but due to errors in War and based on architectural designs of that period. buildings down or ‘modernising’ the masonry work, a section of the Examples are the Library, Katani House and others, them, they restored the houses main wall collapsed resulting in the built by commercial companies such as banks and agro- to their original style. Examples inevitable destruction of the whole industrial firms, or by philanthropists who had become include the former Immigration building. wealthy from the booming sisal industry. As Tanganyika office, the former residence of the German District Commissioner This strongly points at the urgency was not a full colony, Britain did not invest as much as (now Palm Court Hotel), the old of having proper guidelines and Germany in infrastructure and public buildings. Khanbhai Building (ground floor), skills in place for rehabilitation the Old Bohora Mosque, the Exim works to prevent similar disasters in Bank building, the Shia Old People’s future - a vision strongly promoted Rehabilitation of the courthouse. Urithi also prepared, Home, the former Riddoch Building by the local tourism industry. heritage buildings in collaboration with experts from and the former Sisal Authority Town The local NGO Urithi (Tanga Heritage Germany, an architectural plan Warehouse. Society) was the first to recognise for rehabilitating the Cliff Block of the value of the architectural the Bombo Hospital, an impressive Unfortunately, some historical heritage and has rehabilitated building overlooking Tanga Bay. buildings with landmark potential several historical buildings with very were demolished, such as the limited funding, mostly donations The rehabilitated buildings were Planter’s Hotel. Others collapsed and small grants of the German then handed over to their original as a result of lack of repairs and Embassy and the North German users - the Usambara Courthouse maintenance, soon sadly joined by town of Eckernförde. The first three to the High Court of Tanga and the the Old Boma next to the Regional rehabilitated buildings include the Old Tanga School to the Municipal Block that is about to collapse. Many Usambara Courthouse, the Old Council to be run as a secondary historic buildings are in a state of Tanga School (the first school of East school. The ‘Msonge’ was renovated serious disrepair; some are even still Africa built in the 1890’s) and the to become a tourist information under threat of being demolished. ‘Msonge’, a small round hut close to centre. Clock Tower 20 21 Guidelines for Conservation Shaaban Robert Tanga is very rich of ‘Conservation and the Heritage Toronto Tanga’s forgotten Kiswahili poet natural & historical Design Guidelines’ Board is involving the Machui village, 10km south of Tanga, has been heritage. This includes for anyone planning or local community in the Immovable features, undertaking building identification, evaluation, the home of one of the greatest writers of the such as natural, works in the historic interpretation and Kiswahili literature, Shaaban Robert. He was scenic and cultural Stone Town. They commemoration of the born in 1909 from parents of the Wayao tribe landscapes with their include an explanation heritage. from southern Tanzania. He was educated in biodiversity including on how to design new Msimbazi school in Dar es Salaam and started rare species; buildings, buildings in compliance work with the colonial civil service as a clerk in ruins, archaeological with the law, an analysis Participatory localities, battlegrounds of traditional stone Heritage Customs Department of Pangani in 1926. During and cemeteries. Tanga’s structures and common Conservation this time he produced much of his literary work. Heritage has also Movable causes of failure, detailed is guided by: features, such as locally descriptions of traditional - A comprehensive From 1944-1946 he joined the Wildlife Department, followed by typical arts and craft, building technologies and what picture? inventory of Heritage work with the Tanga Provincial Commissioner’s Planning Office up historical maps and up-to-date conservation in the city, based on documents, as well as techniques, as well as to 1952. As a member of the East Africa Swahili Committee, the detailed research, to Intangibles, such as advice on how to plan East Africa Literature Bureau, the Tanganyika Languages Board identify its location, cultural and traditional and execute repairs of and the Tanga Township Authority, he dedicated his literary work value and integrity. manufacturing, beliefs traditional buildings. - Acknowledgement and to the promotion and further development of the rich Kiswahili and values, skills, music, respect for the value language. In recognition, he was awarded the Margret Wrong speech, narratives, As times change, people and integrity of Heritage Memorial Literature Prize and also made a ‘Member of the British names, events and wish to change their in the development and ceremonies. buildings or need to carry Empire’ (MBE) by the Queen of England. Today, the road passing property management out repairs. But these the National Museum and leading to the State House in Dar es through a co-ordinated changes, unless properly Salaam bears his name. planning approach and an Historical Heritage guided, can destroy a open dialogue between Conservation town’s special character, citizens, owners, Altogether, Shaaban Robert has produced 22 books of prose, Like in Zanzibar, the which is a main attraction developers, consultants, essays and poems, some of which have become standard reading historical centre of for tourism. Therefore, city staff and councillors Tanga is a unique in Zanzibar, the law in Kiswahili literature classes. He was married twice and had at the earliest cultural asset. The requires anyone wanting ten children. He died relatively young in 1952 and was buried at opportunity and always ongoing collapsing and to do building work in prior to the issuance of Machui near his birthplace, where he is now commemorated with demolition of historical the Stone Town to first any formal approvals. a white marble gravestone. (extracted from Urithi Newsletter landmark buildings and ask permission from the - Protection of heritage Vol.2, No.1, 2001) ill-conceived repairs Stone Town Conservation in any planning and are now threatening its and Development design context. Where survival. Unlike Zanzibar, Authority, which assesses comprehensive protection Tanga has yet to adopt the building application is not feasible, the least a policy of heritage according to these destructive form of Recommended reading on Tanga’s colonial history: conservation. guidelines. Being a pioneer in intervention is essential. Charles Miller, Battle for the Bundu, Capetown, 1974 - An understanding and Tanzania, Zanzibar has Tanga could also take a appreciation of the value William Boyd, An Ice Cream War, London 1982 drawn up: leaf from other places of Heritage through Juhani Koponen, Development for Exploitation, around the world, interpretation and German colonial policies in mainland Tanzania 1884-1914, such as Toronto, where communication. Helsinki/Hamburg 1994 22 23 Attractions The Tongoni ruins consist of mosques Gallanos Toten Island served as a quarantine Tanga City and tombs, remains of residential Hot Sulphur Springs station and European graveyard, houses of the first Shirazi. About 8 km from Tanga City and thus its name ‘Toten Island’, which Tongoni Ruins Resident guides take you through only 3 km from the Amboni caves is German for ‘island of the dead’. Other areas worth visiting include the site and explain its history, you can find the Gallanos Hot In 1884, the last inhabitants of the the well-preserved Tongoni charging a small entrance fee. Springs. These hot and sulphurous Island moved to Tanga. Research is Ruins, which are managed by the springs are visited by local people needed to explore the history of the Department of Antiquities. Tongoni Amboni Caves for their healing properties, is a small fishing village situated The mysterious Amboni Caves 8 km especially for skin ailments. 17 km south of Tanga City. It was north of Tanga City are probably the The colourful greenish- once a prosperous and respected most extensive limestone caves in blue and yellow deposits trading centre in the 15th century East Africa, and were sculptured by in the bottom of the brook established by the Shirazi of Persian nature into a fascinating underground give evidence of sulphur. origin who established many Islamic world of halls, chambers, niches Visitors can take a bath in settlements in East Africa such as and tunnels, some equipped with the springs, when there is Kilwa and Mafia. stalactites and stalagmites. A one enough water (mostly after kilometre stretch can be explored the rainy season), but the with a local guide who can also walk to the springs is in Tongoni was probably the location tell many stories about the history itself interesting, through of the first port before Tanga. Vasco of the caves and of people hiding local ‘shambas’ (fields) and Mosque on Toten Island Da Gama, the Portuguese sailor, is there over the ages. You will see patches of coastal forest. known to have visited Tongoni in formations that locals describe as many ruins on Toten Island, which the Virgin Mary, the Statue Toten Island are also in urgent need of protection of Liberty, also ancient Toten Island is located in Tanga Bay as historical sites. paintings, animal footprints directly opposite Tanga Harbour. and signs of witchcraft and The island is covered by a lush Toten Island also has small beaches offerings. coastal forest with huge baobab and nature trails criss-crossing the trees and has also ruins of early forest and ruins and can be visited The limits of the cave settlements. When the Portuguese by boats, arranged by hotels and system have not yet been controlled part of the coast, Toten tour operators in Tanga. investigated. Local legend Island seems to have been used for a has it that the caves have prison. Later, according to historical Ulenge Island an exit to the north close to records, the island was around 1854 Ulenge Island borders Tanga Bay and Mount Kilimanjaro and an occupied by a considerable number Kwale Bay at the north of Tanga. The extension that comes back of inhabitants. Islamic monochrome island is a typical fossil coral island to the coast. It is dangerous and Chinese blue and white shards that was formed from a fringing to go beyond the known mostly of the 15th, 16th and late reef at the last Ice age about 15.000 Amboni Caves limits of the caves without 18th and 19th centuries have been years ago. The island is covered by April 1498. He made a second visit proper equipment and expertise. found here. There are also ruins of a dense pristine so-called ‘coral- the next year and spent 14 days in two mosques and German tombs of rag’ forest with a highly specialized Tongoni, where he abandoned and The entrance fee is around 3 USD. the turn of 19th century, as well as plant community that has developed destroyed one of his ships, the ‘San A small kiosk in front of the caves foundations and ruins of buildings to survive without any groundwater, Raphael’ for being beyond repairs. offers drinks and snacks. of the German colonial era, when instead depending on capturing the 24 25 moisture from the humid air and is hoped that the Port Authority can in such tombs, but also sometimes A long and winding mangrove storing rainwater during the rainy restore this historical lighthouse to found in ‘mihrabs’ of mosques. creek leading to the village was for seasons. The bedrock of the island is its former glory! centuries used by dhows trading all made up of an impressive substrate Traditional Boat Building along the East African coast from of fossilized coral. You can still see Around the lighthouse, and now Building of traditional boats is still Arabia, India, and as far away as the skeletal structures of corals and overgrown by dense coastal thicket, one of the liveliest crafts found along China. Archaeological artefacts giant clams - a gentle reminder of Ulenge Island also has a number of the Tanga coast. Dugouts (mtumbi), found in abundance around the ruins the passage of millennia. impressive ruins of what once was a outrigger boats (ngalawa), small of this ancient village give evidence sanatorium for lung patients of the planked boats and the legendary of this, such as coins, beads and Ulenge Island has important ruins Bombo Hospital. Old photographs cargo dhows (jahazi) are built and shards of pottery, among others of from the German colonial period show a very beautiful towered repaired using very simple age-old the Chinese Ming dynasty that are that still need to be researched building that was often mentioned hand tools, mostly close to small over 500 years old. Many of the and documented. The impressive in travellers’ reports of the German landing sites in bays and mangrove ancient baobab trees bear marks of historical lighthouse built at the colonial period as their first sight creeks, e.g. at Mchukuni village witchcraft rituals performed until turn of the 19th century was still when they approached Tanga from in Mwambani Bay. Fishermen are today by local people praying to the North. happy to invite you for a sailing trip their ancestors buried in this very on a Ngalawa to the small islands, ancient village. The famous African Towards the ocean, Ulenge or even on a Jahazi (dhow) going to archaeologist Peter Garlake has Island is also bordered by a Pemba, but make sure to bring a life started researching and published healthy coral reef that offers vest, as none of these boats have about the history of the Swahili great snorkelling and diving safety equipment and Tanzania has coast including the Ndumi area in over its shallow reef crest no maritime rescue service either. the 1960s, and more discoveries and down into the drop off wait to be made there. Ndumi

Yambe Island of the Pemba channel. Old Ndumi Village Ruins truly has the potential to become The adjacent uninhabited Ras an archaeological site of national fully intact until 2008, complete Yambe Island Nyamakuu peninsula has foundations importance and prime destination with a Fresnel lens powered by the Yambe Island borders the southeast and ruins of the ancient Ndumi village. for tourism! so-called AGA gas light that, when coast of Tanga Bay opposite of These date probably back to the introduced in the 1920s, functioned the Ras Nyamakuu peninsula. The 14th century and are bordered without a resident lighthouse island is surrounded by coral reefs by a still mostly intact unique keeper. In 2008, scrap metal and totally covered by coastal rag imposing arch at its entrance dealers dismantled and vandalized and mangrove forests. Uninhabited that is probably found nowhere all metal parts of this historical today, German records of the 19th else in Tanzania. Sections of a monument, destroyed the lens and century mention a small resident town wall built in defence against removed all doors, the copper roof village of a local Arab ruler with marauding Maasai probably in and internal staircase. Until that his slaves. Maybe from his time or the 18th century are still held year, the lighthouse could still be earlier, the island has ruins hidden together by roots of fig trees, climbed to enjoy the breathtaking in the forest, a walled grave and including a section with a spy-hole view over Ulenge and Kwale Islands, pillar tomb with large panels, overlooking the creek. Old graves, into Kwale and Tanga Bays and the enclosed by stones decorated with wells and house foundations are turquoise sea between Tanga and a herringbone pattern and a frieze scattered in a beautiful park Pemba that is still plied by dhows of small panels. The herringbone landscape and shaded by huge unchanged for a thousand years. It pattern is a rare and unique feature ancient baobab trees. Ndumi Village Ruins 26 27 Tanga Museum carpets); building local houses from Traditional Beliefs TAYODEA and the Novelty Youth The new Boma - where the German natural products; women creating Traditional healing areas, as the Centre. Among other things they Colonial government was situated - & painting pottery; weaving & locals believe, are spirit places organise International Youth Days, is to be used as the Tanga Museum. designing tie die fabrics; creating where a witch doctor performs National Youth Weeks, Round Table The building has been renovated handbags from Kanga material rituals that are believed to ward Discussions, Youth Work Camps, with support from the German (used daily as customary women’s off evil happenings in your life - or Monthly Youth Dialogue and the Embassy and Tanga’s Sister City clothing); men designing and carving in the reverse side - develop a ritual Tanga Youth Parliament. Eckernförde. Momentarily the NGO wooden products like curios, bowls against an enemy. Visiting a witch URITHI has its office in the Boma, & decorating items. doctor or a local medicine man promoting the cultural heritage in and tasting their products brings Tanga City. Fishing you in contact with centuries Enjoy learning how to fish with the old traditions still performed The museum is still in the process local fisherman and catch fish using today. This can be experienced of being equipped with exhibits and centuries old ways; see how they throughout the year. yet to be opened fully. If you want clean the fish, sell and prepare the to visit the impressive historical catch. Traditional Medicine building and see the existing Natural medicines, devised from exhibits, members of URITHI will Ceremonies generations old procedures, use show you around. Every March and October bands the roots of trees, gums, leaves, Mon - Fri, 09.00 -12.00 from all over Tanzania, Kenya, spring water, ocean water, ( +255 (0) 784 44 00 68 Cameroon, Zanzibar, and Congo blood and coffee. Learning meet at Mkwakwani Stadium for the uses can be an exciting Local Music Activities the ‘Battle of the Bands’ concert. experience and give you a ‘sense of Agriculture Many activities in Tanga run People from all over the East Coast medicine of time’ before laboratory Learn how the locals prepare their throughout the year. Ask your tour of Africa come for the concert. pharmaceuticals were the norm. land, plant, harvest, sell and prepare operator for more information & From January to December the their crops. Visit the local livestock scheduled rallies. circus ‘Mama Africa’ shares creative Music/Dance herders and pastoralists like the entertainment with locals touring You can experience traditional local Maasai and see how they keep Arts & Crafts Africa, visiting Tanga during June. dance and music from the variety of their cows, goats, sheep, chicken, The following artists can be visited In Tanga, various religious groups ethnic groups living in and around ducks and pigs. Visit them in their year round: Women in villages/ are active, like Christians, Muslims, Tanga City. In the bars and clubs in homes and how they manage their town weaving baskets, sewing shirts Hindu, Sikhs and others; most of town you will find live performances livestock. on century old sewing machines; them are open for visitors to their of modern Tanzanian music like women creating beaded jewellery ceremonies. During the four week Taarab, Baikoko, Bongo Flava and Enjoy the rich variety of fruits which and passionate ladies items; hair period of Ramadhan (fasting time Hip Hop and the ‘Old Dance’. Some Tanga Region is famous for, both braiding; designing clay pots; for the Muslims) some shops and entertainment is not active during temperate and tropical climate weaving local mattresses (weaved restaurants may be closed. Pretty the month of Ramadhan. fruits, such as peaches, apples, much every weekend there is a pears, wild raspberries, guava, wedding going on in Tanga, and Joining Youth Groups loquarts, cape berries, as well you can pop in and enjoy the There are several NGOS and as pineapples, mangos, bananas, cultural style. organisations supporting and papayas, passion fruit, oranges, empowering the local young people, mandarins and jack fruit. Kanga (Cloth) e.g. Nguvumali Youth Centre, 28 29 30

1. Bus Stand 2. Bombo Hospital 3. Historical Graveyard 4. Raskazone Peninsula 5. Yacht Club 6. Raskazone Swimming Club 6a Bathing Club 7. Port 8. Tangamano Ground 9. Ngamiani Business Area 10. Ngamiani Market 11. Okaz Supermarket 13. Popatlal Sportsground 14. Burhani Hospital 15. Safi Medics 16. Tanga Medics 17. British WWI Cemetery 18. Katani Sisal House Dar esSalaam One-way Flightto: service iscurrentlynotoperating. stadium (500 m from Scandinavia Thethe the Buses at stop Centre); the not costmorethan3,000 Tsh. advancehelpsalot. Ataxi into intown Hotel/Guesthouseshould a them stepout the bus. Having organized forintensive of prepared discussions be as soon as you so dishonest!); (some flycatchers City the aggressive for known is from Centre. It km 2 about Road, Themain Busstation isonPangani Mombasa Pangani To/from: v (estimation for2009) Main Transport fares Tanga City Facts &Figures ( cost morethan 7,000 Tsh. highway. A taxi into towntown ontheshouldDar esSalaam/Arusha not ofout airportkmThearound is5 PM. 16:00 at Darleaves for again 15:30 PM (departure Dar: 14:00)Coastal Aviationand arrives inTanga at Zanzibar Pemba Lushoto Moshi Arusha Dar esSalaam

Bus Airplane (Residents 60,000 Tsh) (Residents 80,000 Tsh) (Residents 110,000 Tsh)

18,000 10,000 12,000 12,000 2,000 7,000 Tsh

(~ 1.5) (~ 6.5)

Hours (~ 4) (~ 4) (~ 8) (~ 6) USD

136 106 76 (see ‘Pangani’). hire a boat service to ZanzibarFromPangani and Ushongo you can correctdeparture inadvance. check to recommended Pemba-Tanga on Sundays.Zanzibar-Pemba It is Fridays;highly leaves on Zanzibar. to return Thursday The on Tuesdays Pemba, continues to and Residents). leaves Tangafor on It (15,000 way 21,000costs Tsh one Tanga Harbour. Pemba to to trip The Islander” the Zanzibar “SpicePemba starts at and Ferry The 09.00-12.45; Mon-Fri14.00-18.00 ( (close to Main Post Office) Tanga MedicareHospital ( Safi Medics (Hospital Road) ( Burhani (4th Street, Ngamiani) Several privateHospitals: (Hospital Road) Regional HospitalBombo : 1,000 Tsh perday). possibilities to hire bicycles (around around. Furthermore find will you you take (“dalladalla”) to buses and (Motorcycle) “pikipiki” and taxis, “bajaj” (3-wheel- find will you townMotorcycle)Everywhere in b o Major Pharmacies open everyday +255 (0)715310555 +255 (0)272646920 +255 (0)272643938 +255 (0)272647650 Health Get Around Town Boat

31 Central 1. Central Market MasterCard. Bank charges, HTanga City 2. SD Supermarket esp. for transfers can Kola Prieto (x) Hotels ( +255 (0)27 26 44206 3. Post Office vary quite a lot. Changing s-single, d-double +255 (0)784 489 526 4. Clock Tower money after office hours No. in map 5. Jamhuri Park is not recommended s-30,000 6. Library Sea View Hotel (i) on the streets. In case Raskazone 7. Tanga Museum/Old Boma ( +255 (0)784 441 142 of emergency contact Panori (a) 8. Tanga City Council d-30,000/35,000 your Hotel or local Tour ( +255 (0)656 049260 9. Cathedral Malindi (k) Operators. +255 (0)27 26 46064 10. Railway Station ( +255 (0)27 26 42791 11. Central Bakery s-30,000 d-10,000/20,000 12. Stadium * Post d-42,000/55,000 Ocean Breeze (l) 13. Police Post office Independence Mkonge (b) ( +255 (0)27 26 44545 14. Immigration Street, 9:00 – 16.00, Mon- ( +255 (0)27 26 43440 d-10,000/15,000 15. Scandinavia Bus Stand Fri, Letters/parcels within +255 (0)753 248 611 Mbuyukenda (m) 16. Coastal Airline Office Tanzania are transported @ mkongehotel@ 17. Uhuru Park ( +255 (0)714 720 942 by some trustworthy bus kaributanga.com 18. German WWI Cemetery +255 (0)27 26 40094 companies like Raha Leo. mkongehotel.com 19. Fish Market @ mbuyukendahostel@ s-75,000/80,000 R Restaurants elct.ned.org 4 Things To Do d-85,000/90,000 B Bank/ATM s-15,000 Nyinda Classic Hotel(c) F Filing Station d-20,000/25,000 Swimming Raskazone ( +255 (0)754 537 434 New Upare Hotel (w) Tanga Yacht Club: +255 (0)27 26 45051 ( +255 (0)784 956 928 * Shopping Sisal products admission 2,500 TSh; s-40,000/60,000 s-7,000/15,000 Tanga City is the major industrial Katani House (Hospital Road) Restaurant open Regal Naivera Hotel (d) d-8,000/15,000 and economic centre of the region. midday’s and evenings ( +255 (0)784 641 464 You find pretty much everything in Arts & crafts Bathing Club: +255 (0)712 996 668 Chumbageni town – sometimes it might take you Local products are sold at many admission 300 TSh @ regalnaiverahotel@ Tanga Hotel 2007 (h) a little while to get to the one shop places: e.g. Central Market, Swimming Club: yahoo.com ( +255 (0)27 26 45006 selling what you are looking for. Endelevu Cultural Group (Street admission 500 TSh; regalnaivera +255 (0)27 26 45006 No.4), Ukili at Work Group (Street Restaurant open hotel.com s-12,000 Supermarkets No. 7), BlueMangoExpeditions and evenings s-40,000/45,000 SP Motel SD Supermarket (Market Place) Tanga International Conference d-50,000/80,000 ( +255 (0)27 26 44435 Okaz (Makoko Road / 6th Street, Centre (Mwambani). Nightlife Inn by the Sea (e) +255 (0)788 837 307 Ngambiani) La Vida Loca ( +255 (0)27 26 44614 s-15,000/20,000 Central Bakery (Swahili Street, just @ Internet Chichi Night Club s-15,000/20,000 Spider before the railway) Internet cafes are found all around La Grande Casa Chica Raskazone Hotel (f) ( +255 (0)27 26 45004 the town centre and Ngamiani area. These Clubs all on ( +255 (0)713 670 790 +255 (0)718 771 499 Markets Independence Avenue +255 (0)733 670 790 s-15,000/25,000 Central Market (Market St.,Mon-Sun) l Money @ raskazone.hotel@ Ze City Ngambiani (12th Street, Mon-Sun) All major banks have branches in the Tanga Hotel gmail.com ( +255 (0)27 26 42013 Tangamano Market - open air city centre around Market Place. There Eckernfoerde Avenue s-10,000/15,000 (Pangani Road, Clothes and are operating ATM cash machines 24 hrs (Live Band, Fri + Sat) d-20,000/30,000 +255 (0)713 527 515 Utilities, Tue+Thu+Sat) a day, accepting mostly Visa and some suite-40,000/60,000 s-16,000 32 33 Silvarado Hotel (g) s-15,000 Sahare Makundi Raskazone Ngamiani ( +255 (0)27 26 45259 d-20,000 Tanga Beach Resort (v) Local cuisine Swimming Club (6) AL-uruba s-50,000 Soni Innn ( +255 (0)785 171 717 1,500 - 5,000 Indian cuisine (Khayrat Hotel) Savena Inn Street No 11 +255 (0)27 26 45424 Rusha Roho 5,000 – 10,000 Local cuisine ( +255 (0)27 26 46567 ( +255 (0)27 26 45777 @ info@ Local cuisine 500 daily Street No 10 s-16,000/30,000 s-25,000/30,000 tangabeach 1,500 - 8,000 membership required 2,500 – 8,000 Palm Court Hotel (s) resort.com Food Point Pizzeria d’Amore Royal Café ( +255 (0)784 928 300 Chuda s-85/155 USD Local cuisine Italian, int’l. cuisine Local cuisine s-5,000/10,000 New Dolphin Hotel (n) d-115/185 USD 3,000 - 5,000 opp. Mkonge Hotel Street No. 3 ( +255 (0)27 26 46061 Mondays closed 1,200 - 2,800 Mwambani +255 (0)784 400 407 HTanga City Razkazone 7,000 – 12,000 Local Food Stands Tanga International @ dolphinhotel2000@ Restaurants Tanga Yacht Club (5) Panori (a) Street No. 7 Conference Centre yahoo.com Basic price listed Indian, local, int’l. Local, int’l. cuisine ( +255 (0)716 666 617 d-25,000/50,000 cuisine 7,000 – 24,000 Chuda +255 (0)732 976 512 Old Dolphin Central ( +255 (0)27 26 44246 Nyinda @ Reservation@ d-12,000/15,000 Patwas @ [email protected] Executive One Hotel icctan.com Nyinda Executive (o) Indian & local cuisine tangayachtclub.com Local cuisine www.meeting ( +255 (0)655 662 257 3,000 – 7,000 4,000 - 9,000 2,500 - 12,500 pointtanga.net +255 (0)718 260 299 Ocean Breeze (l) 2,500 daily s-22,000/40,000 s-20,000 Local cuisine membership required d-32,000/60,000 d-25000 4,000 – 8,000 Red Sea Motel Cappuccino & Ngamiani ( +255 (0)27 26 47540 EXPRESSO Khayrat Hotel +255 (0)754 847 261 Local cuisine Street No 10 s-15,000 2,500 – 3,500 ( +255 (0)27 26 45508 Waridi Excutive Hotel Exotica +255 (0)716 093 338 ( +255 (0)715 978 475 (Sea View Hotel) @ [email protected] +255 (0)753 182 088 Indian cuisine s-15,000/20,000 s-15,000/25,000 5,000 – 12,000 Central City Hotel Mazoon Food Palace ( +255 (0)27 26 44476 ( +255 (0)27 26 45567 Indian, local, int’l. Savannah +255 (0)27 26 44477 +255 (0)716 462 000 cuisine +255 (0)713 237 137 s-15,000/20,000 2,500 – 10,000 @ centralcityhotelltd@ d-20,000/30,000 Afrique yahoo.com Mtendele Hotel (t) Local cuisine 40,000/50,000 ( +255 (0)654 488 882 2,500 – 5,000 Panama +255 (0)27 26 45304 New Upare Hotel Street No 14 @ mtendele@ Local cuisine ( +255 (0)714 988 519 yahoo.com 2,000 – 6,000 s-15,000 www.mtendele.com Local Food Stands Maua Inn d-20,000/50,000 Roundabout Street No 8 Mkwakwani Stadium ( +255 (0)27 26 46242 1,000 – 3,000 34 35 36 37 Tanga Coast The coastal stretch of Tanga Region ‘living fossil’ Coelacanth fishes that is tropical, well structured with live in deep waters along the outer numerous bays and small uninhabited island drop offs. They were only islands covered by pristine coastal recently discovered in 2003, when forests, surrounded by coral reefs, fishermen started catching them with extensive areas of sea grass accidentally as by-catch in deep-set beds, mangroves, creeks and drops shark nets. Before that, Coelacanths offs. Small fishing villages line the were only found in the Comoros, coast, where locally made dugouts and very few in South Africa and (mtumbwi), outrigger (ngalawa) Indonesia. Coelacanths, a critically and larger wooden planked cargo endangered ‘Cites I Species’, are boats (jahazi) - all powered by the of enormous scientific interest as beautiful age-old traditional lateen they are among the oldest fish on sails - still dominate and ply the Earth, dating from the era when turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, marine animals started moving out reminiscent of an over 1,000 years of the sea and populating the land. old trade that linked East Africa with Coelacanths pre-date even the Arabia and the Indian subcontinent. dinosaurs by over 300 million years! For their protection, the Tanzanian Boat trips can be organised through government has decided to create tour operators in Tanga City. a Marine Park along the Tanga south coast, and in 2009 already gazetted Coelacanth an area stretching from Tanga Bay Marine Park outwards beyond the fishing village Tanga is also of Kigombe. The park also includes immensely Toten Island, Mwambani Bay and privileged the Yambe and Karange Islands, to host a where most of the Coelacanths have s i z e a b l e been found so far. Similar to these population outer coral rag islands in the park, the cliffs of stunningly beautiful of the huge Live Coelacanth and unique Mwambani Bay and further down 38 39 the coast mainly consist of marine Kigombe fossils dating at least 15.000 years Kigombe is situated about 30km ago, when the sea level sank south of Tanga. The village has during the last Ice age and exposed more than 3,000 inhabitants. It is ancient coral reefs. Fossilized corals surrounded by vast sisal fields and and shells like the giant Tridacna actually is the biggest fishing village continuously emerge from the along the Tanzanian coastline. cliff walls and line the beaches of What to do in Kigombe You can stroll along the endless beaches and admire magnificent mangroves. Or you have a look Coconut Indonesia and India are alcoholic drink (about 6 at the Kingfisher house – right at the largest exporters % alcohol). the southern end of the village There is no plant more of copra worldwide. Oil - built in colonial times in the typical of the Swahili extracted from copra is Other uses of coconut early 20th century, from where coast than the coconut used to make cooking are numerous: the you have a beautiful view over palm. Some botanists oil, margarine and soap. trunks are used for fuel, Coastline Kigombe harbour. consider that this charcoal, house and palm originated on the the coastline. A Management Plan Nuts for copra need to boat building and rather The more adventurous can go on a Pacific coast of Central be mature, and they are fine furniture; the dried is now under preparation, which dhow to a paradise-like little sand America, while others will designate zones of protection ready when they fall to leaves produce thatch island and snorkel along some stunning think that the centre the ground. Under ideal (‘makuti’) or can be and multiple uses and hopefully coral reefs – part of the Coelacanth of origin is Melanesia; introduce sustainable fishing conditions, with good made into mats and Marine Park - on the way out. that is roughly from New rainfall, each tree may fences. The coarse fibre techniques in the area. Today the Guinea to Fiji. Anyway, park can be visited through Tour yield over a hundred on the outside of nuts For accommodation and contacts by the time Vasco da nuts a year. is coir, used for ropes, Operators. Once fully established in Kigombe see Pangani Facts & Gama reached East and well managed and a Visitors’ matting and upholstery. Figures. Africa in 1498, coconuts Locally, coconuts are The oil is for cooking, Centre built, this Marine Park will were already here. be a powerful tourist attraction. also sold when they anointing, illumination Malaysian sea-rovers or are immature, when and soap. Half shells Arabs had introduced the flesh is eaten and (the stony endocarp) them centuries earlier. the juice is drunk. A are used for bowls, coconut, when it is at cups, measures, scoops The main product of the stage of being full of and ladles. Besides these palms is the juice, is called ‘dafu’ in this, coconut honey, copra, the thick white Kiswahili. thin and reddish-brown edible flesh contained Palms are also tapped is delicious. Indeed, in the nuts. This copra for palm wine or toddy. without the coconut, or ‘meat’ of the coconut The unopened flower life on the Swahili coast can be dried and is tapped for the sap, would be poorer: it stored for long periods, which can - after a is a great provider to which facilitates its few days - turn into an mankind. export. The Philippines, Lionfish 40 41 History, natural, Several historical sites in and around cultural & built the town serve as reminders of the strong Arabic influence and the later heritage German and British colonial era in History of Pangani Tanganyika. The district boma or Archaeologists have found the headquarters is the most impressive remains of small 15th century building remaining from the period settlements on the bluffs just of Zanzibari rule. People were north of Pangani. The modern buried alive under the pillars during town came to prominence in the construction as it was believed this nineteenth century when - under would ensure strong foundations. nominal Zanzibari rule - it was a major terminus of caravan routes Today to the deep interior. From the 1860s Once a centre of Swahili trade townspeople established large with the African mainland, the plantations of sugar and coconut in town of Pangani is now a sleepy Pangani Mauya along the banks of the river backwater that little remembers its just west of town. The plantations days of splendour. The old German Pangani is situated 45 km south of or your own nets because they are were worked by slave labour and administrative boma still stands Tanga City and lays at the mouth of often not in the best condition. Pangani became an important behind a colonnade of tall shade the , which flows all Eating in town is limited. Some centre of the slave trade. the way down from the Kilimanjaro local restaurants serve fresh grilled After the Sultan of Zanzibar Highlands and meets the Indian fish, seafood or chicken with chips signed treaties with Great Ocean. Pangani has a remarkable and a salad. For a cosy three course Britain outlawing the ocean- history dating back to the 15th candle light dinner better make an going trade in slaves in 1873, century and traces of old buildings arrangement with the lodges in the Pangani became a centre for and monuments still can be seen. area. smuggling slaves across the Its quiet and laid-back atmosphere narrow channel to Pemba, in offers an ideal get-away for those Travelling further south to Ushongo evasion of British warships. seeking to escape the masses of Beach or Saadani National Park is tourists that flock to Zanzibar. possible by crossing the river to In 1888 Pangani was Bweni, a small village on the other the centre of an armed A range of higher budget side. The new car and passenger movement to resist German accommodations are found a few ferry is operating from 6:00 am colonial conquest of the Pangani Old Town kilometres north of Pangani Town to 6:30 pm; charges are 200 Tsh entire mainland coast. The and at Ushongo Beach, 16 km south per person and from 5,000 Tsh for local leader of the resistance was trees and the former prison - painted of the river. High cliffs are forming vehicles depending on size. The Abushiri ibn Salim al-Harthi, born in a fading ochre red - overlooks the the small bays around the coastline, other option to reach Saadani Zanzibar - and slave trader himself. river’s lazy waters. Old houses along giving a stunning view of the Indian National Park is to pass 50 km After his defeat he was hanged by the main road are lived-in examples Ocean. There are a few guesthouses through small villages from Pangani the Germans in Pangani in December of colonial and traditional Swahili in town offering low budget bed & to the Tanga-Dar es Salaam highway 1889. architecture and slowly crumble by breakfast. It is recommended to and enter the Park from there. the monsoon winds. Visitors passing bring enough mosquito repellent through the area may explore what 42 43 remains of the old town on foot. and an ideal destination for families, importance of this ecological system per person to support their project Even a short walk rewards visitors honeymooners and those looking for above and under water. protecting the island and the with a glimpse of the quiet life in an a holiday off the beaten track. surrounding reefs. old trading town along the Swahili The long reef slopes and Coast. Maziwe Island beautiful coral gardens Pangani is a secondary centre of Marine Reserve around the Island are still the sisal industry, servicing sisal (see Tanga Coast for map) visited by sea turtles looking Sea Stars plantations to the north and south Maziwe Island is one of the oldest for breeding places, with of town. Marine Reserves in Tanzania and records of about 200 nests of is located about 15 nautical miles green and olive ridley turtles Ushongo off the coast of Pangani. In 1912 - in a season, when Maziwe Continuing the journey another 16 according to a report of a German was still a forested island. km south, away from the old remains officer – the island was covered by Unfortunately, there is no of history, another important part of a dense forest which was so lush chance of breeding success the coastal Swahili culture can be that he got lost looking for a sailor’s today as sea water now grave. From the 1970s the covers the eggs at high tides trees were cut down and and they rot. The Tanzanian the island reverted to a Government, the Friends sandbank. Around 1983 of Maziwe NGO, the local the last tree was seen on community and the NGO Sea Sense Maziwe and what is left have joined together to find a way When visiting Maziwe Island today, is a sun-kissed sand to protect and save the remaining (and any other marine areas) island, exposed during low turtle nests. On the agenda of the please follow the environmental tide. Established in 1975 it turtle conservation project is close friendly guidelines: was given the status of a monitoring of any turtle activity Reserve to protect this most on the island, relocating nests to 1. Please do not step on corals as important breeding place a protected area on the mainland they break easily. Watch your feet for sea turtles of the East and raising awareness amongst and fins at all times. communities of the importance of 2. Please do not chase, touch Coral Fish African Coast as well as to take care of the important sustainable resource use. Turtles and feed marine wildlife. Feeding seen: a traditional fishing village in reef system around. are on the brink of extinction in fish or any other species can lead Ushongo Beach. No visitor can fail to Tanzania. Ask for more information to them becoming reliant upon the be charmed by the wooden sailing A diversity of nearly 400 species in your Lodge/Resort, visit the Turtle food source and aggressive towards boats that glide gently through the of fish, 35 genera of hard and Conservation Area and Information humans. water in the early morning hours, soft corals, sponges and algae as Centre at Kasa Divers or check 3. Please do not litter on the providing fish for the fishermen’s well as shoreline birds have been under www.seasense.org. island and take all the rubbish back families and surrounding lodges and identified. Just recently a group of home. resorts. bird experts from Denmark counted The entrance fee for the Marine 4. Please do not collect any shells 35,000–38,000 Terns roosting or Reserve is 10 USD per person per or other dead or alive marine Ushongo is still one of the little passing Maziwe, among them the day. creatures. known secrets of the Tanzanian first Black Tern reported in Tanzania. 5. Please do not anchor on the coast with its fabulous and secluded Still a lot of research needs to be A local community called “Friends coral reef. beaches, fringed by coconut palms done on Maziwe to understand the of Maziwe” is collecting 2,000 Tsh 44 45 Attractions system that stretches from Tanga surrounding reefs Fungu Datcha, perfect for those who want to give Pangani & Ushongo up to Saadani. Snorkelling is Fungu Ushongo, Masera and it a try, while more experienced Not only the historical highlights, the opportunity to observe the Kipumbwe Reef are excellent places surfers will find more thrill at the the laid-back atmosphere and the fascinating underwater world to dive with numerous dive sites and reef break on the outside for wave- beautiful beaches are attracting without complicated equipment a relaxed and professional attitude riding and jumping. Different sized tourist to visit this part of the world. and training. Especially the reef to the sport for experienced and boards and sails are available and Pangani and Ushongo are as well a surrounding Maziwe Island features novice divers. Dive groups are training can be arranged. The winds heaven for outdoor adventures and beautiful underwater scenery with usually small and instructions can are usually good in the afternoon; activities. Rich coral reefs run along hard & soft corals and an interesting be given in several languages. always watch for the tide level the coastline, supporting a vibrant marine life. Check the equipment especially surfing along the shallow before renting it. Fogged There are various options open to reefs. masks, unfit fins and leaking those who want to learn to dive, snorkels can take away the from a one day introductory course Sailing whole fun of it. Start the to the PADI Open Water Certification, Get a glimpse of the African sailing snorkel adventure in shallow an internationally recognized tradition and cruise along the coast water and use a life-jacket qualification. Even the youngsters in a Ngalawa or a wooden dhow depending on experience from age 8 can get a first level and conditions of the experience underwater. ocean. Kayaking Diving Looking for more adventure, The Tanzanian coastline is an then get a sea kayak and Diving unexplored and untouched paddle out from the beach underwater world and making an area and Pangani is a new and view the coastline from excellent place to snorkel and dive. dive destination in the warm waters afar. Take snorkel equipment Various hotels offer water sports of the Indian Ocean. A diversity and discover the reefs close including kayaking, windsurfing, of dive sites, from gently sloping to shore or row in one of the island boat trips, sailing and biking. coral gardens to massive bommies small mangrove rivers for surrounded by beautiful reef fish is some bird watching. offering something for everyone. Most of the kayaks are A culture walk through Pangani Sailing town, a Pangani River Cruise or a Blue spotted rays, crocodile fish, “Sit-on-top” style, easy trip to Saadani National Park can be leaf fish and Napoleon fish are to start the trip and never sink. for a day or a sunset cruise; this is arranged by nearby lodges & resorts, regular encounters underwater Kayaks can be hired by hour/half a great way to enjoy the natural Pangani Tourist Office and Tanga and not to forget the presence day in different places and inquire ocean environment. A day cruiser tour operators. For all excursions of the many green turtles. The about the hot spots and weather and a catamaran sail yacht can and activities always take enough depth ranges from 5-35 meters and conditions. be hired for more comfortable water, wear a T-shirt and lots of sun diving is possible all year around travelling. Combine a sailing trip protection. with an average visibility of 15m Windsurfing with sightseeing around Pangani or and an extremely pleasant water Windsurfing is still a popular activity snorkelling at one of the sand islands; temperature of 26-29 C. and beginners and pros can all enjoy it is a truly unique experience. Snorkeling the warm waters and fresh sea Learn more about sailing and take a The coast in this Region is host Maziwe Island Marine Reserve breeze of the ocean. The shallow few hours instructions while staying to a rich and exciting coral reef (see Tanga Coast for map) and the and sheltered areas of the coast are at the beach. 46 47 Fishing official tracks; any road or footpath Facts & Figures next options are the hospitals in Fishing along the coast includes is excellent for a ride, as is the Pangani & Ushongo Tanga City casting along shore, fishing from the beach at low tide. kayak to trips on a motorized Dhow Main Transport fares (2010) Hospital open daily to inshore reefs or deep sea fishing Pangani River Cruise v Bus 8am-12.45 pm; Mo-Fr 2pm – 6pm to the outside fishing grounds. Enjoy The Pangani River meanders the To/from: Tsh Hours a fishing combination by trolling and landscape, fringed with mangroves Tanga 2,000 (~ 1.5) * Shopping bottom fishing using lures or natural and coconut plantations. You might Muheza 2,000 (~ 1.5) Pangani has a small market at the bait. Typical catches are Kingfish, see Mangrove and Pied Kingfisher (Best to go via Tanga) bus station with fresh goods like Barracuda and Trevally, with some hiding in the branches of trees, Buses to Pangani and Ushongo fruits/vegetables. (open daily) luck even a sailfish or a Yellow Fin Colobus monkeys looking for a departing from Tanga bus stand Tuna. shady area, and with a bit of luck are not really on a fixed schedule. @ Internet some crocodile might come up to Another more comfortable and Some lodges/resorts in Pangani and the surface. faster way to get there is by Ushongo offer internet connection. Leave before sunset, when taxi; the price depends on your it is not so hot anymore and negotiation skills, but it should not l Money most wildlife become active exceed 60,000 Tsh to Pangani. To NMB is the only bank operating in again. Make sure there is get to Ushongo from Pangani, ask at Pangani, offering to change cash some roof shade on the the Pangani bus station for leaving money only. There is no international boat, take a cool box of cold dalladallas, the Tourist Office on the ATM service and you cannot change drinks and enjoy a romantic market area or arrange transport traveller cheques in Pangani. sun downer on the River. directly with your lodge/resort. * Post Pangani Culture o Boat Ocean Road following the Pangani Walk To/from: River next to the ferry The pleasant atmosphere of Ushongo (~ 0.5 hrs) Pangani makes for a pleasant Zanzibar/Nungwi (~ 1.5-2 hrs) 4 Things To Do walk to the historical places of interest any time of the The speedboat leaves Mon, Wed, Diving - Ushongo day. The Boma, German Fri; Departure Ushongo (07.30), Kasa Divers – Cemetery, the Slave Prison Pangani (08.00); Dep. Zanzibar/ PADI Dive Resort & Watersports and the memorial garden Nungwi (10.30), Pangani (12.00). ( +255 (0)786 427 645 are found to the west of Fare: 1-4 pax 250-270 USD per boat +255 (0)784 134 056 town. To visit the Slave 5 and more: 45-50 USD per person @ www.kasa-divers.com Depot, stroll down the River Transfers to Pemba or other Beach Crab Dive Centre Fishing Boat Road and continue to the travelling days on request. ( +255 (0)784 543 700 coconut processing area at ( +255 (0)784 134 056 @ www.thebeachcrab.com Biking the river’s mouth. Combine the walk +255 (0)782 457 668 Bike through the tropical coastline stopping at the fossilized remains @ [email protected] Information - Pangani away from busy roads and of a dinosaur north of town. The Pangani Tourist Information Centre experience a different picture tour takes about 2 hours and guides : Health ( +255 (0)27 263 0006 of Pangani, its local villages and can be found in the Pangani Tourist Pangani District Hospital @ www.panganitourism.com breathtaking scenery. There are no Office opposite the bus station. West of Pangani Town 48 49 +255 (0)713 917 754 Ushongo Beach Drifters Lodge HPangani & @ info@ (16 km south ( +255 (0)27 2641071 Ushongo baharipori.com of Pangani) +255 (0)714 542 909 Hotels s-50, d-70 USD Emayani Lodge @ drifters@ s-single, d-double (hb) s-60, d-90 USD ( +255 (0)27 26 40755 mtnloaded.co.za hb-half board (fb) s-70, d-110 USD +255 (0)782 457 668 (hb) s-30/70 USD fb-full board cottage: 230 USD @ info@ Kaskaz Beach Lodge Capricorn emayanilodge.com ( +255 (0)784 489 248 Pangani Beach Cottages (hb) s-105 USD s-60 USD Mkoma Bay 30 km south of Tanga d-80 USD p.p. d-120 USD Tented Lodge Sea Star ( +255 (0)784 632 529 The Beach Crab Resort 4 km north of Pangani @ capricornbeachcot ( +255 (0)784 543 700 ( +255 (0)27 26 30000 [email protected] +255 (0)784 253 311 +255 (0)786 434 001 capricornbeach @ info@ @ mkomabay@ cottages.com thebeachcrab.com gmail.com s-44 USD, d-88 USD camping: 4,500 p.p. mkomabay.com YMCA Hostel (hb) Tented Camp (hb) s-110,000/130,000 4 km north of Pangani s-45,000 d-200,000/250,000 ( +255 (0)787 525 592 d-35,000 p.p. Tinga Tinga Lodge s-15,000 Tsh (hb) Bungalow 2 km north of Pangani d-20,000 Tsh s-105,000 ( +255 (0)784 403 553 Pangani Beach Resort d-75,000 p.p. +255 (0)786 364 310 2 km from Pangani Tulia Beach Lodge +255 (0)27 26 30022 ( +255(0)27 26 30088 ( +255 (0)27 26 40680 @ info@ +255(0)786 156 110 +255 (0)782 457 668 tingatingalodge.com 40 USD p.p. @ info@ s-65/89 USD Stop Over Hotel tuliabeachlodge.com d-47/65 USD p.p. Pangani Town s-45 USD (hb) s-73/97 USD ( +255 (0)784 498 458 (hb) d-55 USD p.p. d-55/73 USD p.p. +255 (0)717 441 011 camping: 10 USD Peponi Beach Resort s-10,000 Tsh Ushongo Beach 30 km south of Tanga Sea Side Cottages ( +255 (0)784 202 962 Community Hostel ( +255 (0)784-214 412 +255 (0)713 540 139 Pangani Town +255 (0)715-477999 @ info@ ( +255 (0)27 26 30318 @ info@ peponiresort.com @ alcposs.spiritual ushongobeach.com s-40/50 USD [email protected] cottage: 70-130 USD d-55 USD d-30/40 USD The Tides Lodge (hb) s-52/67 USD Safari Lodge ( +255 (0)27 26 40845 d-80 USD opp. Police Station +255 (0)784 225 812 camping: 4 USD ( +255 (0)788 286 265 +255 (0)713 325 812 Bahari Pori Beach Resort +255 (0)717 505 637 @ info@ 10 km north of Pangani s-10,000,d-12,500 thetideslodge.com ( +255 (0)754 073 573 Beach Bicycling Anenome Fish (hb) s-200 USD 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 while Swahili fishermen cast their nets and snorkelling. Visit Saadani below a brilliant red sunrise. fishing village, which lies within the reserve. Go out fishing with the Welcome to Saadani National Park! local fisherman for a fresh catch for dinner. Trips to the Park are About Saadani arranged through tour operators. National Park Saadani was very important during Size: 1,100 sq km (430 sq miles) pre-colonial and colonial times. In Location: On the north coast, roughly the 19th century it was a major 100 km northwest of Dar es Salaam as trading post for caravans and also the crow flies, and a similar distance a regional administrative centre for southwest of Tanga City. the German colonial government. An impressive ruin of the German Entrance Fee: 20 USD boma can still be visited. Saadani National Park (1,500 for Tanzanians) Where the Bush When to go Meets the Beach How to get there The Park is accessible all-year The park is the only wildlife giraffe, buffalo, warthog, common ( Air: Charter flights from round, however the access roads sanctuary in East Africa to boast an waterbuck, reedbuck, hartebeest, Zanzibar or Dar es Salaam are sometimes impassable during Indian Ocean beachfront. Saadani wildebeest, red duiker, greater kudu, v Road: Thrice-weekly road the heavy rain season in April and possesses all the attributes that eland, sable antelope, yellow baboon shuttle from Dar es Salaam, taking May. The best game-viewing is in make Tanzania’s tropical coastline and velvet monkey. Herds of up to four hours in either direction. January and February and from and islands so popular with local 30 elephants are encountered with There is no road access from Dar es June to August. and international nature lovers. Yet increasing frequency and several lion Salaam along the coast; follow the it is also the one place where those prides are resident, together with Dar-Tanga highway for 160 idle hours at the beach might be leopard, spotted hyena and black- km to Mkata, then 60km on interrupted by an elephant strolling backed jackal as well as over 200 dirt road to Saadani National past, or a lion coming to drink at species of local and migratory birds. Park. Direct road access the nearby waterhole! Boat trips on the mangrove-lined from Tanga and Pangani via Protected as a game reserve since come with a high chance Ushongo is possible except the 1960s, in 2002 it was expanded of sighting hippos, crocodiles and after heavy rain, and all to cover twice its former area. a selection of marine and riverine year access from Tanga to The reserve suffered greatly from birds, including the mangrove the Park via the Tanga-Dar poaching prior to the late 1990s, but kingfisher and lesser flamingo, while highway. A 4-wheel drive is recent years have seen a marked the beaches form one of the last always required in the Park. turnaround due to a concerted major green turtle breeding sites on Lion Pride clampdown on poachers, supported mainland Tanzania. What to do and helped by local villagers with Explore the many attractions of Contact the conservation drive. Palm trees sway in a cooling oceanic the Saadani National Park through Contact Person: Tourism Warden breeze. White sand and blue water game drives, guided walks and boat ( +255 (0) 785 555 135 Today, a surprisingly wide range sparkle alluringly beneath the tropical safaris on the Wami River. The white @ [email protected] of grazers and primates is seen on sun. Traditional dhows sail slowly past, sandy beaches and the perfectly [email protected] game drives and walks, among them propelled by billowing white sails, clean water invite for swimming www.tanzaniaparks.com 58 59 Accommodation Kisampa Lodge Saange Beach Lodge just outside the Park direction Mkata Saange village just outside the Park ( +255 754 972 694 ( +255 (0) 787 921 421 +255 753 005 442 @ [email protected] @ [email protected] www.oloika-lodges.com [email protected] www.kisampa.com The Saadani Safari Lodge Kisampa Camp: ( +255 (0) 22 27 73294 240/300 USD p.p. sharing +255 (0) 784 585 401 Kisampa Bush Camping: @ [email protected] (exclusively set up for each client www.saadanilodge.com group) 240/300 USD p.p. d-285/400 USD p.p. sharing Sima Beach Retreat: Child (6-16) 227 USD p.p. sharing (private beach camp, exclusively set Honey Moon 500 USD p.p. sharing up for each client group) 240/300 Includes: Full board, park fees & USD p.p., min. 4 pax taxes, airstrip transfer, laundry, one daily shared activity A Tent with a View Mkwaja just outside the Park ( +255(0) 713 323 318 +255(0) 222110507 @ [email protected] www.saadani.com Full Board or All Inclusive (except park fees 20 USD) Tented Banda: 195/275 USD p.p. Suite: 265/375 USD p.p. Single supplement 80 USD per night

Saadani Rest Houses inside National Park ( +255(0) 784 517 212 +255 (0) 762 263 649 @ [email protected] www.tanzaniaparks.com Old Rest House s-20 USD, Res.-10,000 New Rest House s-50 USD, Res.-30,000 d-70 USD, Res.-40,000 Bandas 40 USD, Res.-20,000 Tents 20 USD, Res.-10,000 p.d. Giraffes 60 61 Mangrove forests bind the silt winds. With them, the washed down into river Arab traders brought Mangroves are a group mouths, and provide an Islam, their language of trees that are important refuge and Arabic (which mixed able to survive in salt nursery for young fish with Bantu languages and brackish water. and crabs, as well as and formed the regional These trees belong to habitat for many bird lingua franca Kiswahili), unrelated families and species. All mangrove gunpowder, pottery and all have adaptations to forests in Tanzania are beads. What they took life in waterlogged soils legally protected. back on the Kusi (south- and saline or semi-saline west-monsoon) was water. Some species The Tanga coastline has ivory, slaves, mangrove develop spider-like prop many mangrove forests; timber and poles, roots to prevent the so far nine different and honey from the plant from falling over species have been mangrove flowers. in soft mud; others have identified. Mangrove wood is much knee-like aerial root prized for furniture, projections, which allow For many centuries, poles, building the roots to breathe the termite-resistant scaffolding and house during low tides. mangrove poles were construction. Even the Market, Kitivo / Usambaras Mangroves are at the traded to Arabian very boats that took interface between countries and beyond, these prizes back to land and sea and are mostly by lateen-sailed Arabia were made from vitally important in the Arabic Dhows that were mangrove timber. Dhow protection of coastlines able to reach the east ribs come from the and estuaries from African coast due to white mangrove and erosion by wave action the seasonal Kaskazi the mangrove Heritiera of the sea. Mangrove (north-east monsoon) makes fine dhow masts.

Shellfish Gleaning 62 63 Geology The honey people, the Wambugu, The Usambaras are very old. They are Cushites and came down from arose in a period of rifting between Ethiopia to settle here in the 1700’s. Africa and Madagascar 290-180 The Wambugu were well-known as million years ago. Simply put, two bee-keepers and honey producers. blocks slid against each other along Their neighbours were the a fault or split in the earth; one block Wasambaa, and from the Wambugu was uplifted to be the Usambaras, they purchased bee hives. Even and another slumped to form the today the mountains are known for depression along which the Pangani quality honey. River now flows. The rock types are gneisses, meta-anorthisites The first king of the Wasambaa was and some marble. Note that these Mbegha, who started the Kilindi mountains are not inherently dynasty from the mid 1700’s. fertile, when compared with the Mbegha came into power using fertile volcano Kilimanjaro. marriage and blood partnerships. Usambara Mountains The kingdom reached its height History under Kimweri ya Nyumbai, who History, natural, It’s unclear exactly when the first ruled between early 1800’s to the cultural & built The Usambaras are part of the Eastern humans lived in the Usambaras, 1860’s. The kingdom extended heritage Arc Mountains, a crescent of eleven however people have More visitors are discovering the individual ancient mountain blocks probably been here for Usambaras as an alternative destination that run parallel to the Tanzanian at least 2,000 years. The that doesn’t cost an arm and leg, yet coast. Some of the better known evidence is from the early surprises with the friendliness of people are the Ulugurus, towering over iron-smelting furnaces and excites with its diversity. Morogoro, and the Udzungwas, most excavated by researchers. of which is now a National Park. All lie Hence the forests must have The Usambaras consist of two in Tanzania except for the Taita Hills been exploited at this early mountain blocs; the smaller East in Kenya. stage. These early people Usambaras, lie closer to the coast hunted, gathered fruits, with slightly higher rainfall. This It is important to mention that cultivated sorghum and block is less populated and its primary Conservation International (a U.S. millet, and had livestock. attraction is the Amani Nature based environmental group) has An important event in the Reserve, approached from Muheza. recognized the Eastern Arc Mountains Usambara history was the The West Usambaras are separated - together with coastal forests in arrival of the banana plant Amani Historical Farm from the east by a valley and the Kenya and Tanzania - as one of the from Asia about 1,000 years district centre here is Lushoto, world’s 25 Biodiversity Hotspots. This ago. The farmers took to this crop from the Pare Mountains down to approached from Mombo or from the means that there is an exceptional in a big way, and harvests from the coast at Tanga and Pangani, north-eastern side of the Usambara richness of plant and animal species in bananas were more reliable than and out onto the plains in the south Mountains (see map). One of the best a relatively small area, and endemism from millet and sorghum, so this and east. Early European travellers preserved montane forests in East is high (i.e. many species are unique agricultural revolution must have such as Johann Ludwig Krapf (1848) Africa is privately owned Mazumbai in to these mountains). boosted human population growth. and Burton and Speke (1857) visited the West Usambaras near Bumbuli. Kimweri’s capital. 64 65 The end of the kingdom was in 1898 comparison the whole of Western 2,000 mm falls in Amani every year. for the tourist is made more when a fire destroyed the capital at Europe houses only 71 species of This stability allowed the forests to memorable when accompanied Vuga. The demise of power was due trees. That means 9.6 times as evolve and form many species over by a guide knowledgeable in the to a number of factors, including many tree species in the Usambaras a long period of time. The forests of ecology of these forests. (Contacts epidemics of smallpox, an old as compared to Europe! the Usambaras were once continuous for registered guides see below) disease in Africa that was spread with those of the Central African far and wide by the Arab slave Other examples from this rainforests, but became isolated The most important attraction of the traders. An important slave route biological wonderland: from them perhaps millions of East Usambaras is the Amani Nature was immediately below the Irente • 2,855 plant species in total years ago. So this little refuge in the Reserve with its botanical garden, View point following the Mkomazi • 30 species of amphibians & clouds, left undisturbed by climate butterfly farming, tea & spice flood plain into the interior. reptiles, 15 are endemic; among change that occurred elsewhere, plantations and accommodation on them the Usambara two-horned, could continue with its evolution of site (see Muheza section for more With the demise of the Kingdom three-horned & soft-horned many and unique species. information). Nature reserves are came the Germans as colonists. chameleons better protected than forest reserves They gave the Usambaras special • At least 8 butterfly species Sadly, as Shakespeare once said, as nobody is allowed to collect dead status as a place of rest and are endemic, while 43 species are “Where every prospect recreation, away from the humid, threatened pleaseth only man is vile”. disease-ridden coast. Lushoto was • Interesting mammals such as Man has been an enemy ‘Wilhelmsthal’ and some wished tree hyraxes, Swynnerton’s squirrel, of the forests. Only 6.7 % it would become the capital of the lesser pouched rat and Abbot’s of the original vegetation Deutsch Ost-Afrika. The Germans duiker is left today. Your best also founded the Amani Agricultural bet of finding original and Research station in East Usambaras Highlights amongst birds are: the undisturbed rainforest is in that became famous for botanical green-headed oriole, Amani sunbird, the Amani Nature Reserve experiments testing mainly rubber Usambara-hyliota, -Eagle Owl, (East Usambaras) and and cotton; over 350 people were -Weaver, -Alethe, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Mazumbai Forest (West Cloud Forest employed at its peak. Fischer´s Turaco, Blue-mantled Usambaras). crested flycatcher, bartailed and wood or to herd livestock. Good Biology Narina trogons … the list is endless. Every visitor coming for the beauty news, in 2010 the Shume-Magamba The Usambaras have exceptional and the richness of the Usambara forest reserve (largest in the West biodiversity; occupying only 400,000 Why are the Usambaras so biologically Mountains helps to preserve the Usambaras) will be upgraded to hectares, the mountains house 684 rich? The answer lies in geological natural environment! a nature reserve status. This will tree species and sub-species. By and climatical stability: no major mean a larger operational budget geological upheavals for 30 Forest & Nature Reserves and better protection from arsonists million years. The south- in the Usambaras and wood thieves. This is the first easterly trade winds have There are many forest reserves and forest reserve to be upgraded to a shed their moisture here for one nature reserve in the Usambaras nature reserve and hopefully more 30 million years. Most of the that are under the Department of will follow. rain comes in the ‘Masika’ Forestry and Beekeeping, among season (March to May) and them are Ndelemai near Soni, The jewel in the crown of the West the East Usambaras get the Shagayu near Mtae, and Mkuzu near Usambaras is Mazumbai, a private most rain as they are closest Magamba. These reserves are well reserve, quite remote - about 2 African Violet to the Indian Ocean. Over worth visiting, and the experience hours drive from Lushoto – and well 66 67 worth the effort to get there. It was blessed the place after feeling Natural Resources. They found the industry was doing well and tea was owned by a Swiss family for a long thirsty and water came out. discovery special in human history, exported mainly to England. Today time and is now owned by Sokoine particularly because of the University, using it for student How to get there number of footprints found practices. The sheer size of the There are two common ways to and the perfect condition trees is breathtaking. Camping is reach Nilo by vehicle: from Muheza they are in. The footprints allowed, and campers can relax in through Amani Nature Reserve via are at the surface, clearly the old Swiss-style farmhouse. Derema to Kizerui gate (about 59 visible to the naked eye Nilo Nature Reserve km); and from Korogwe township and at least 1.5 million to Kizara gate via Magoma years old, so probably from predecessors of mankind. division and Kwentonge (78 Tea Plantation km). The footprints are found in a Tanzania produces 32,000 tons a Fees sedimentary deposit, in a layer year (1% of the world’s harvest) Contact the Nature Reserve left after a volcanic eruption. This and ranks fourth in Africa as a tea or Tour Operators for more layer was still soft when people exporter, after Kenya, Malawi and information. and animals passed. The layer must Uganda. Tea factories can be found have been covered by sand or new in Muheza, Korogwe and Lushoto Contact layers that over time again must districts. Plantation tea in Tanzania Conservator have been washed or eroded away. is all of the Assam type. It is grown Botanical Delight ( +255 (0)784 587 805 The sedimentary layer with the at high elevations in the tropics +255 (0)754 609 497 footprints has become solid rock, a where it is warm and wet. Nilo Nature Reserve is among the @ nilonaturereserve@ process which takes more than 1.5 East Usambara tropical rain forest yahoo.com million years. Tea is a tree which left unpruned blocks covering an area of 6,025 ha. would grow to 10 metres; however It is the second largest contiguous Attractions Mambo Caves it is kept at 1 metre, a height forest block under protection after Near Mambo caves have been convenient for plucking. The most Amani Nature Reserve. The Reserve Recent Discovery: discovered close to the footprints tender, fresh leaves are plucked. was established in 2007. Madala Hominid with traces of very ancient habitation Pickers harvest 30-40 kg of leaves Many ecotourism attractions can be Footprints - probably from the same species as a day, and 2-3 thousand tea leaves visited in Nilo Reserve. The highest In April 2009 near Mambo, district those who left the foot prints. The are needed to produce a kilogram of peaks of East Usambaras with an Lushoto in the Usambara Mountains caves must have been created due tea! In Tanga Region tea is produced altitude of 1,506 m. (Nilo Peak) and a unique rock was discovered to a heavy earthquake causing big on big plantations and small family 1,400 (Lutindi Peak) are giving a by Ndege Chombo. The rock has rock falls. Earthquakes with heavy farms. Near Korogowe there are 77 clear 360° view of the East and West many footprints from predecessors impact are not known in recent family farmers who sell the tea to Usambaras. Further attractions are of human beings as well as Tanzania history, which indicates the nearby factory. the Tuvui and Zumbe kuu waterfalls from different animals. Since these sites are very ancient. and the traditional worship areas then different expeditions were A visit to a tea factory or farms are found at Lutindi peak and organized with history professor Mr. Tea in the Usambaras is most interesting; ask a tour Kwemkole village called ‘Hundu’ Mgema from the National Historic Tea was first planted in the 1902 operator! After the visit you are as well as the Holy water point - a Documentary Films Production by German settlers. Large-scale sure to be offered a cup of the historical point where according and Mr. Jumanne Gekora Maburi, commercial production began golden-brown beverage! to the local legend once a Bishop archaeologist at the Ministry of in 1926 and by the 1960´s the 68 69 but once the tree cover seems that coffee, as is removed they become a plantation crop, had Coffee barren landscape after a been abandoned. Cultivation few years. The Germans in the West had to learn this lesson With the failure of the Usambaras at a great loss 100 years coffee in the Usambaras ago. Unfortunately, to the Germans looked for The Germans looked this day the belief lingers other crops to plant in at the resources of on, that tall tropical its place. These included the Usambaras in a forest signifies abundant tree crops such as completely different soil fertility. black wattle (grown for way from the indigenous the tannin in its bark) inhabitants. They were In 1886 the “Deutsch- and the quinine tree interested in economic o s t a f r i k a n i s c h e from Peru (also grown development of the Plantagengesellschaft” for its bark for the colony, especially for was formed as the first extraction of quinine, exporting agricultural German plantation in an anti-malaria drug). products to Germany. the Usambaras. The Other tree crops were Three main areas in primary crop of the first fruit trees like apples, the country were set plantations was coffee, peaches, pears and aside for plantation and the plantation plums, still produced to agriculture, one being establishment was at this day. Tea, as a coffee the Usambaras. the expense of species- replacement, proved to diverse montane forest. be more resilient to the In the 1880´s magnificent, The first estate in the poor quality soils. dense, high forest western Usambaras was covered most of the Sakare, established in Irente, it seems, was one Usambaras, and early 1896, with 20,000 Coffea of these experimental white travellers were full liberica shrubs planted coffee estates from the of enthusiasm about their in the first year, and a last century. The name lush verdance. Seeing further 200,000 planned. “Irente Coffee Estate” such fine forests, these By 1897 there were a lingered on into 1961 travellers concluded that total of 1.25 million when the Lutheran the forests were growing shrubs of Coffea arabica church bought it and the on exceedingly fertile planted in the Usambaras name changed to Irente soils. One of them Farler, on 600 ha, with a further farm. Lately it is known reported that “No more million shrubs planned. as Irente Biodiversity fertile soil could be found However, yields started Reserve, where you in the world.” As it turns shrinking and shrubs may still see patches out, he could not have failed and even the of coffee shrubs still been more wrong. Today introduction of manure growing, living symbols it is known that tropical in 1905 did not improve of the failed dreams of forests look very fertile, the yields. By 1914 it these early colonists. 70 71 further through forest and steep and juice “factories” and the royal cultivated slopes to reach Lushoto, village of Kwembago. Enjoy a picnic half an hour beyond Soni and 34 lunch, rye bread and cheese at km from Mombo. Lushoto is the Irente Biodiversity Reserve. A visit biggest town in the Usambaras to Irente Children’s Home, Irente with a population of over 400,000, School for the blind and the Rainbow a friendly place in a very beautiful school can also be arranged. setting among high forested peaks. Usambara Farms & Flora (4-5hrs) Attractions This walk takes you through the fertile farm lands of Jaegertal Lushoto is among Tanzania’s popular (German for ‘Hunters Valley’) to a cultural tourism programs. The fruit tree nursery where you can tourist office is opened daily 7.30- learn about different varieties of Lushoto 18.00. The West Usambara Cultural fruit trees and their propagation. Tourism Program offers over a dozen You can continue uphill to the village History, natural, different guided tours around West of Vuli to visit local soil conservation cultural & built colonial settlement and plantation Usambara, ranging from three-hour and irrigation projects. You return heritage agriculture. Located at 1,400 m strolls to a challenging five day to Lushoto via the arboretum. The first European to reach Lushoto above sea level, the climate is bicycle trip to Moshi via the Pare was the Missionary Johann Ludwig cool and subtropical and up to Mountains. (see below for contacts Magamba Rainforest (5-6hrs) Krapf who in 1849 was given a warm independence much favoured by of local tour guides and operators) This tour begins with an uphill welcome by king Kimweri I. In 1886 European settlers. In 1912, the walk from Lushoto to the royal the German colonists entered the district already had 13 plantations One Day Usambaras and persuaded the local growing vegetables, fruits, tea, walking tour chiefs to sign away their domain for coffee and a variety of other food Montessori Sisters of Ubiri a pittance. The subsequent German crops. (3-4hrs) advance was made easier because This tour takes you for a - in the later half of the nineteenth Lushoto is the administrative centre short walk from Lushoto to century - Usambara was racked by of the Western Usambara Mountains the Catholic Mission of the chaos. The slave trade had started and has several colonial buildings Montessori Sisters in Ubiri. to invade the mountains, while at that are still being used, such as the At this beautiful landscaped the same time the Sambaa-Kilindi- former District Office (still the same mission you can taste, learn Dynasty was caught up in a civil today) and the historical Post office about and buy locally made war against the Bondei tribe who (built in 1913), as well as several cheese, wines and jams. wanted independence. solid European style residential

plantation houses scattered in the Irente View Point (5-6hrs) Irente View Point After consolidating their rule, surrounding valleys of the Usambara From the famous Irente the German Colonial Government Mountains. Viewpoint you see the village of village of Kwembago, where you founded today’s Lushoto in 1898 Mazinde almost 1,000 metres below learn about the cultural history as “Wilhelmsthal” (after the name When driving up the mountains, and the vast Maasai Plains beyond. of the traditional ruling clan, the of the German emperor), which the scenery becomes even more On the return trip to Lushoto you Kilindi. From Kwembago you have a became an important centre of spectacular past Soni as you wind can visit the Irente cheese, jam beautiful view of Lushoto and the 72 73 Maasai plains. You proceed to the over the Maasai plains. Before Kwamongo and Magila. From lush Magamba rainforest, home to returning to Lushoto you visit a local there, the walk continues black and white colobus monkeys. farm or tree nursery. to the Bumbuli Mission and The return to Lushoto passes via Hospital, an historic German an old German middle school (now Several Days settlement, where you can Sekuco University) and the village walking tours from stay overnight. The walk of Magamba. Lushoto continues to the Mazumbai rain forest reserve, a bird Growing rock Mtae (3-5days) watchers paradise. After From Soni you walk to the top of From Lushoto you pass through enjoying the forest you Calla Lily Kwamongo Mountain peak, famous a tropical rain forest trek over return to Soni via the village for its multicoloured butterflies, via mountains and through valleys to of Mgwashi and Kwesine. : Health the village of Shashui and Kwemula. the villages of Lukozi, Manolo and Hospital From Kwamongo you have views of Sunga before finally reaching your Facts & Figures Private clinic in Lushoto destination at the historical Lushoto Mabwawani Dispensary, village of Mtae. There are Dr. Mtunguja several viewpoints in Mtae Main Transport fares(2010) ( +255 (0)784 459 118 area: Mtae View Point and v Bus Open 7.30 am - 4.00 pm weekdays. Mambo View Point, with a To/from: Tsh Hours Saturday and Sunday closed breathtaking view of the Dar es Salaam 12,000 (~ 8.5) Bumbuli Lutheran Hospital African plains. To reduce Arusha 12,000 (~ 7) (50 km from Lushoto) walking time, catch the bus Moshi 10,000 (~ 5) ( +255 (0)27 26 40361 to Mtae. Tanga 7,000 (~ 4) Pharmacies along the main street Soni Waterfalls Mlalo (3-4 days) The buses usually leave in the * Shopping Mlalo has an alluring famous morning both from and to Lushoto. Markets and small shops old German church and The buses to Tanga leave throughout Around the Central Market close to missionary station, now the day; the first one starts at 06.00 the bus station you’ll find small shops hosting a secondary school. am and the last bus leaves at 04.00 for food and clothing like kangas Soni, Lushoto and Handeni plains. The walk from Lushoto to Mlalo and pm. The direct buses to Moshi, and kitenge. The market is open Your descent is to the village of back takes three or four days with Arusha and Dar es Salaam leave every day, good days are Sunday and Magila at the foot of the growing some sections travelling by bus. It’s early in the morning. An alternative Thursday in Lushoto and Tuesday and rock. best combined with a visit to Mtae. to direct buses: take a minibus Friday in Soni. The walk goes through Magamba to Mombo junction at the foot of tour (5-6hrs) forest; Mtumbi Hill (Usambaras the mountain to connect to other Arts & Crafts From the village of Mbuzii you highest mountain) can be climbed destinations. Mombo is a big stopover Irente Biodiversity Reserve weave slowly down the slopes of the from here. Several good markets place with several restaurants and (Irente Farm) Bangala river valley at times wading are in the area; in Kileti village the a fresh food market. Buses into the 5 km from Lushoto through cool mountain streams that main attraction is pottery. mountains (e.g. Mtae, Mlalo, Mlola) organic jams and juices, muesli, offer a welcome relief to the rising depart around 01.30 pm; buses to rye bread, tilsiter cheese, cottage savannah heat. Throughout the Mazumbai Forest (4-5 days) Bumbuli and Mgwashi leave in the cheese, yoghurt walk you see traditional irrigation This physically challenging walk afternoon from Soni junction (15 Montessori Sisters systems and have beautiful views begins in Soni and passed via km from Lushoto). in Ubiri 74 75 3 km south of Lushoto right and the Catholic @ whitehouse@ @ lushotohighland @ mullersmountain HLushoto Town banana wine, cheese Church on the left. raha.com parkhotel@ [email protected] s-38/50 USD Restaurants and jams Hours: 8.00 am - 4.30 d-15,000 yahoo.com There are very few d-48/50 USD Benedictine Fathers in pm Mon-Fri, 9.00 am - Mandarin Grand Hotel d-30,000/40,000 restaurants in Lushoto, Swiss Farm Cottage Sakarani 1.00 pm Sat ( +255 (0)784 533 816 one is Tumaini ( +255 (0)714 970 271 near Soni, red s-15,000 d-30,000 Irente restaurant in Tumaini +255 (0)27 26 40155 and white wine, HLushoto Masaule Resort Centre (5km from town) Hostel. Other places +255 (0)784 469 292 macadamia nuts and oil ( +255 (0)784 420 310 Irente to eat are the hotels Hotels @ swiss-farm-mkuzi@ Sunga pottery s-single, d-double +255 (0)715 420 310 Biodiversity Reserve and lodges nearby, bluewin.ch village close to Mambo hb-half board @ masaulerc@ (formally Irente farm) small places close to www.swiss-farm- Mtae traditional fb-full board yahoo.com ( +255 (0)788 503 002 market and bus station mkuzi.ch pottery s-20,000 d-25,000 +255 (0)782 724 944 serving local food. Mambo View Point Lushoto Town Tumaini Hostel @ anette.murless@ s-15 USD d-35 USD near Mtae, pottery and Kakakuona Lodge ( +255 (0)27 26 40094 svenskakyrkan.se HLushoto Town woodcarving from the ( +255 (0)27 26 40273 +255 (0)655 455 060 www.elct-ned.org/ Soni Maweni Farm Contacts area +255 (0)754 006 969 @ tumaini@ irente Sed Tours & ( +255 (0)787 279 371 @ info@ elct-ned.org biodiversityreserve Adventures Safaris @ info@ @ Internet kakakuonatz.com s-12,000 d-25,000 s-17,000/30,000 ( +255 (0)784 689 848 Internet cafes are s-25,000 d-30,000 suite-35,000 d-34,000/60,000 maweni.com found nowadays all Karibuni Lodge St Eugene’s Hostel Irente Cliff Lodge s-35 Euro @ anna@ around the town ( +255 (0)784 474 026 3 km from town ( +255 (0)784 866 877 (hb) d-45 Euro sedadventures.com centre. s-30,000 d-35,000 ( +255 (0)27 26 40055 +255 (0)27 26 40026 (fb) d-51 Euro Friends of Lawns Hotel +255 (0)784 523710 @ info@ Usambara Society l Money ( +255 (0)27 26 40005 @ steugenes_hostel@ irenteview.com Kifungilo ( +255 (0)715 420 310 NMB is the only bank +255 (0)784 420 252 yahoo.com s-50/65 USD Mkuzi Creek Resort +255 (0)784 420 310 operating in Lushoto, @ tony@ s-20 USD d-36 USD d-65/80 USD (17 km from Lushoto) @ Usambaras2000@ offering to change cash lawnshotel.com Mviwata Home Stay suite-120 USD ( +255 (0)754 286 970 hotmail.com money only. There is no s-40,000 d-45,000 (diff. places near Lushoto) +255 (0)27 26 40247 Tayodea Tour Care international ATM service common bath ( +255 (0)713 666 017 Mambo/Mtae @ gsempeho@ ( +255 (0)784 861 969 and you cannot change s-14,000 d-18,000 +255 (0)783 527 010 (60km from town) raha.com +255 (0)713 771 087 traveller cheques. Lushoto Sun Hotel @ [email protected] Mambo View Point www.mkuzucreek.net @ Youthhall2000@ NMB: 8.30 am – 4.00 pm ( +255 (0)27 26 40082 ruraltourism@ ( +255 (0)785 272 150 s-30,000 yahoo.com M-F, 8.30 am – 1.30 pm Sat s-12,000 d-15,000 mviwata.org @ info@ d-55,000/65,000 Community Care & Tumaini Bureau de Change Lushoto Executive (hb) s-25,000 mamboviewpoint.org Cottages Friendship Association next to Tumaini Hostel, Lodge Papaa Moze (Malindi) s-50/70 USD 90,000 (max.3pax) ( +255 (0)784 861 969 Main street, changes ( +255 (0)784 360 624 (15 km to Mlalo, d-65/85 USD 20,000 @ [email protected] dollars and euros @ lushotoexecutive 25 km to Lushoto) addt’l person Community Based ( +255 (0)27 264 0094 [email protected] ( +255 (0)784 599 019 Mkuzi Rural Tourism Project lushotoexecutive s-8,000/12,000 (12km from town) Mlalo ( +255 (0)27 26 40183 * Post lodge.co.tz Lushoto Highland Mullers Rangwi Sisters (Rangwi) +255 (0)713 666 017 Situated along the 55/120 USD Park Hotel Mountain Lodge (25 km from Lushoto) @ cbrtlushoto@ main street, past the Lushoto White House ( +255 (0)27 26 40001 ( +255 (0)27 26 40204 ( +255 (0)789 528 129 yahoo.com police station on the ( +255 (0)784 427 471 +255 (0)789 423 991 +255 (0)784 315 661 s-20,000 www.mviwata.org 76 77 78 79 Village in the Usambaras This Tanga Tourism Guide will be reprinted in 2011. Be a part of it... Make AD space yours! Full Page = 700,000 Tsh 1/4 Page = 250,000 Tsh 1/2 Page = 400,000 Tsh 1/8 Page = 125,000 Tsh [email protected] Usambara Mountains 80 81 To allow township expansion the – traditional fishing - Narrow government decided to relocate Bank of river where locals fear offices from old Korogwe to drowning if they cross because of Manundu area, now referred to as a mysterious gravity pull (hence New Korogwe. The combination ‘Ruvu Maajabu’). of the two areas now form the Korogwe Township. For more information contact the Cultural Tourism Program at Motel Attractions White Parrot: ( +255 (0)27 26 41068 Korogwe Cultural Tourism +255 (0)715 340 776 Biking Trails +255 (0)713 299 935 Kilole Ruvu Canoeing Trail (4–5 hrs) @ [email protected] Rice plantations - Kilole Village - Korogwe Coconut Wine Bar - Minazini Lutindi Korogwe is located on the western Korogwe town is at the back door Vijana Uwanjani - Leprosy camp Eco-Cultural Tourism side of Tanga Region at the foot of the Amani Nature Reserve (see Ruins Lutindi is part of the Usambara of the Usambara Mountains. It is Muheza part for more information). Korogwe hydrometric station Mountains and located on the easily accessed by road from Tanga, Between the town and the Reserve Fishing - Wire River crossing escarpments of the Eastern Arc Dar es Salaam, Moshi, Arusha and lie tea estates and beautiful Mountains close to Korogwe, other . Korogwe mountain forest. Ndemaha Water Falls (4–6 hrs) surrounded by beautiful scenery. district has high mountains and flat Old Korogwe - TANU Memorial This place is a good starting point plains with sisal plantations. These History, natural, Gibril Park - Sisal Estates to explore the mountains. mountains are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains. It lies between 400 cultural & built Old Korogwe Trail (4–5 hrs) Lutindi is famous for the Mental and 1,550 m above sea level and heritage Points of interest: Hospital (the first in East Africa) the annual rainfall ranges between Korogwe town is divided into two Rice plantation - Nyumbu founded by German missionaries in 600-1,000 mm. The district has areas: Old and New Korogwe. The Village - Old Korogwe - Anglican 1896. Two Germans were given land the population of about 270,000 town was founded by a person known Mission 1886 - TANU monument on the mountains from the village people. as Nkorogwe from the Zigua people. Gibril Park - Kitopeni Village chief where they founded the He came from the Nguu Mountains hospital. Guided tours are offered The main source of water of Korogwe (Kilindi) and settled in the area. He Hiking Trails town is Pangani ‘Ruvu’ river. ‘Ruvu’ was so famous that after his death Zungumat Hill (4-6 hrs) means ‘never dry water channel’ people honoured him by naming the Treasure hunting site - in Zigua tribal language; the Zigua settlement ‘Korogwe’ after him. Sienna siamea - Mitiki people originate from this area. The tree Pangani river gets its water from In Korogwe the colonial government zone - View points Mt. Kilimanjaro, passing through built a Boma offices that can be the dam Nyumba ya Mungu (‘God’s visited. The Anglican missionaries Ruvu Maajabu (‘Ruvu House’) nearby Korogwe, reaching built their first church in 1886, still wonders’) the Indian Ocean near Pangani existing today. (15 minutes driving) town. Msambiazi Village - River stone and rocks Market 82 83 through the hospital compound with times as ‘Bismarck’s head’. This Facts & black is sold at Lutindi HKorogwe interesting insights into hospital tour is for people with climbing Figures Mental Hospital. Hotels routines, the Tanzanian health experience. s-single, d-double system and several projects like a Korogwe Markets & sisal workshop and tea production. The hospital runs a workshop where small shops White House Inn colourful carpets, doormats or Main Transport Around the Central ( +255 (0)27 26 40554 The community-based cultural- tablemats are made from local sisal. fares (2010) Market close to the +255 (0)754 822 775 eco-tourism group offers tours to This is occupational therapy for the v Bus bus station you’ll s-20,000/25,000 the nearby attractions like walking patients. A tea production unit with To/from: Tsh Hours find small shops for d-25,000/30,000 safaris into the indigenous forests organic classic black tea blended Tanga 3,000 (~ 2) food and clothing like White Parrot Motel and through villages to spectacular with different spices is situated on Moshi 7,000 (~ 4.5) kangas and kitenge. ( +255 (0)27 26 41068 view points: the grounds, and much more is to Arusha 8,000 (~ 6) The market is open s-35,000/50,000 be explored and to learn about this Lushoto 3,500 (~ 3) every day. d-40,000/60,000 old missionary site. Korogwe Transit Hotel Direct buses to/from Supermarket ( +255 (0)715 700 445 Full board accommodation Tanga, Dar es Salaam, Near the Bus stand, 8.00 +255 (0)783 451 233 is offered on the hospital Lushoto, Arusha, Moshi am - 4.30 pm d-20,000 compound in a small guest and Mwanza pass daily Lutindi Mental Hospital house. Camping is possible through Korogwe. The @ Internet Guest House on suitable areas. town is situated half Internet service is ( +255 (0)27 26 41040 The income of all these way between Arusha available in town. +255 (0)764 414 491 activities helps run the and Dar es Salaam. @ lutindi-hospital@ hospital and is used for l Money elct.org nature conservation projects : Health NMB Korogwe, operating s-18,000 d-36,000 Hiking in the villages. Magunga District an ATM without VISA or Hospital MasterCard services Segera Junction Short walks (30 minutes to 2 hours) How to get there Anglican Mission CRDB Korogwe Branch, 20 km from Korogwe lead to Lutindi View, Point Masusu From Korogwe follow the main road Hospital operating an ATM for Segera Highway Motel or to the nearby tea fields. to Msambiazi village. There you Kwandolwa Sisters VISA card, MasterCard, ( +255 (0)27 26 40815 Half day tours (4-5 hours) will be turn right and continue 13 km on Convert Plus, Maestro, Circus. +255 (0)715 982 506 guided to the Magamba View Point a winding road up the mountain. Hospital Hours: 8.30 am – 4.00 s-22,000 d-30,000 and through the lush rainforest, There is a connecting road to get Lutindi Mental Hospital pm (Mon-Fri), 8.30 am – camping-5 USD where you easily see chameleons to Lushoto, 80 km distance on a 1.30 pm (Sat) and Colobus monkeys. A special panoramic road via Bumbuli and Pharmacies HKorogwe attraction is: you are guaranteed to Sakarani Mission in Soni (a map can along the main streets * Post Restaurants see the famous African violet! be provided for this drive). Situated along the Korogwe * Shopping highway, near to NMB Highway Restaurant A full day trip goes to the 1,450 Contact Arts & Craft BANK Hours: 8.00 am – local food m high Mashindei Mountain. This Lutindi Cultural-Eco Tourism Group Colourful sisal doormats 4.30 pm (Mon-Fri), 9.00 White Parrot Motel tour takes about 8 to 9 hours and ( +255 (0) 27 26 41040 and other sisal articles am – 1.00 pm (Sat) local food is a challenging experience. You can +255 (0)764 414 491 as well as spiced tea climb the peak of this remarkable +255 (0)753 101 618 like orange, cinnamon, mountain known during colonial @ [email protected] cardamom or plain 84 85 for the evolution of an astonishing ago, the oldest ones already in rich and complex tropical rainforest the 1920s. In fact, the core of the ecosystem – in fact the second most present ANR consists of six previous biodiversity place in Africa. Forest Reserves namely Kwamkoro, Kwamsambia, Mnyuzi scarp, Amani Amani Nature Reserve Zigi, Amani East and Amani West. This mountainous and heavily However, this legal status was forested reserve leads to the considered insufficient for an area of most accessible part of the East such high biodiversity conservation Usambaras and is one of Tanzania’s values and hence Amani Nature most attractive and under-visited Reserve was proposed. destinations. Amani means peace in Kiswahili. The Reserve offers People are thought to have been beautiful scenery, unusual and living in the East Usambara Muheza wonderful flora and fauna, a Mountains for even more than Muheza is a small district town in the grave stones with them. Thankfully constant chorus of cicadas and tree 2,000 years. The oldest settlements North East of Tanzania 35 km inland things have changed. By the 1920’s frogs, joined by the screeching of known within the area date back from Tanga City. It lies at the foot of Magila was a thriving community bush babies at night. In the Reserve to early iron age in the 3rd century the East Usambara Mountains on the with a school, hospital and convent. is one of Africa’s largest botanical AD. Most of Amani plateau was edge of the coastal plain. Until July In time however - especially with gardens with enough linking trails densely forested with scattered 2007 stretched from the rail and road links - the nearby through primeval rainforest to keep settlements concentrated mainly the Kenyan border to just north of Muheza village became the district you in raptures (or blisters packs) for along the western escarpment. The the Pangani river, with a total area town. a whole week, even if your interest indigenous dwellers of the Amani of 4,922 km². 90% of the 280,000 in botanical things is limited to the plateau were the Washambaa. population lived in the rural areas. Attractions greens on your plate. During the German colonial era from In July 2007 Muheza District was split East Usambara Mountains the 1890’s forest land was cleared in two roughly along the line of the Some 40 km inland from the Location for agriculture plantations. At the with to the Indian Ocean the mountains of Amani Nature Reserve (ANR) is same time, forest conservation north and Muheza to the south. East Usambara rise abruptly from located in Muheza and Korogwe was emphasised as well and eight the coastal low lands, their steep districts. The main access to the forest reserves were established escarpments levelling off about a ANR is via Muheza town. The in the East Usambaras by 1913. History, natural, kilometre above sea level into a distance from Tanga to Amani HQ In 1902 the Germans established cultural & built deeply furrowed plateau. The range is 65 km and 35 km from Muheza, a research centre – ‘Biologisch- heritage is separated both physically and passing along the Sigi Information Landwirtschaftliches Institut‘ - at In the 1870’s Anglican missionaries biologically from West Usambaras by Centre (25 km from Muheza). Amani which concentrated on were given land by the local chief the 4 km wide Lwengera Valley. With biological and agricultural research. in a rocky area at the foot of the the exception of the dry low lands History Magoroto Hill at a place called Magila to the north the climate is warm and Amani Nature Reserve (ANR) was where a leper colony was already humid influenced by the proximity of officially gazetted on 8th May established. Mostly because of the Indian Ocean. Rainfall averages 1997, with an area of 8,380 ha malaria, missionaries of that era had 2,000 mm a year, which together and a boundary of 149 km. Most a life expectancy of 18 months when with deeply weathered red loam of the forests around Amani were they arrived and they brought their soils has created ideal conditions gazetted as Forest Reserves decades Chameleon 86 87 It was the first of its kind in Africa. and Forestry Research Institute. for the diversity of their flora and During the same time Amani In 1951 all herbarium collections, fauna, and for the remarkably Botanical Garden with an area of staff and equipment of the station high degree of endemic plants about 360 ha was established. were moved to Muguga, Nairobi and and animals found in the forests the silvicultural research activities (i.e. species that occur only here Commercial logging of timber began to Lushoto. The buildings were and nowhere else in the world). during the German colonial era. later handed over to the National For instance, over 500 birds and View Point Logging by the Germans at Amani Institute for Medical Research who 1,921 indigenous vascular plant big waterfalls namely Derema and was conducted mainly through the occupies the area to date. species have been reported from the Ndola; three picnic sites – supplied extraction of Ocotea usambarensis, East Usambaras alone. Among these with sanitary equipment – invite Milicia excelsa and Beilschmiedia Sawmilling gained momentum there are as many as 64 endemic taking a rest from hiking. kweo. A railway line and a station accompanied by industrial logging or near-endemic plant species master’s house were constructed at from early 1970’s. Mainly Sikh (near-endemics occur also in a few To allow visitors to walk around the Zigi to facilitate logging between Sawmills with support from adjacent Eastern Arc mountains Reserve on their own, nine trails have the years 1904-1910. Sawmills were Finland contributed to the that have a similar environment been labelled, mapped and well installed at Kwamkoro and Zigi rapid deforestation of Amani. and geological history). Perhaps documented in the leaflets and trail during the logging period. However, due to global concern the most famous of all are the 11 guide books which are available at on the biological and watershed African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.), the Reserve HQ: Mbomole Hill Trail, During the British colonial era, more conservation values, the Finnish one species of which (S.ionantha) Monga Trail, Ndola Trail, Turaco Bird forest reserves were established Government was convinced Baron von Saint-Paul-Illaire, the Trail, Kwamkoro Nature Trail, Derema and by 1942 the reserved area had to cease logging and support then German commissioner to Trail, Zigi Trail, Amani Research about doubled in the Usambaras. reforestation instead. In 1989, the Tanga, brought to Europe for the Centre Tour, and Sigi Spice Tour. Tea plantations were created in East Usambara Conservation and first time in the year 1891. Since 1940’s at the Amani plateau with Agricultural Development Project then, this small, lovely herbaceous Some walks pass by the Lwengera a consequence of clearing some was formulated and in 1990 the plant has continued its victorious village historical and cultural sites East Usambara Catchment world conquest on windowsills. like sacred caves and the remains Forest Project was established of an Iron Age fort settlement. with support from FINNIDA and Activities Bird watching IUCN. One of its main objectives These following activities are More than 500 bird species has been was to create Amani Nature offered in the reserve: hiking, recorded in East Usambara and most Reserve. walking on trails in the nature forest are found in Amani Nature Reserve. Amani and nature drives, night walks, Many bird watchers visits Amani looking Biodiversity of the camping, butterfly farming visit and for endemic and endangered birds natural forests. The British built a East Usambara Mountains bird watching. including Usambara Eagle Owl (Bubo small hydropower station at Zigi to The Usambaras stand out as an vosseleri), Usambara Weaver (Ploseus provide electricity for Amani. exceptionally diversified ecosystem The three view points are a special nicolli), Amani Sun bird (Anthreptes The Amani Research Centre was in mainland Africa and are ranked as attraction in the Nature Reserve. pallidigaster) and Long Billed Tailorbird re-opened under the name of the one of the 25 biodiversity hotspots You can observe the land pattern (Orthotomus moreaui). East African Agricultural Research and centres of plant diversity of the East Usambaras as well as Station. Later, forestry was made in the world. Their biological the agricultural peasants and tea Amani Botanical Garden one of the important research significance has been compared estates from Kiganga Hill, Ngua One of Africa’s largest Botanical components and the name was to the Galapagos Islands. The and Mbomole Hill viewpoints. Gardens (founded 1902) the garden changed to be East Africa Agricultural mountains are known world-wide Further attractions are the two contains more than four hundred tree 88 89 species (both indigenous and exotic) both guest houses. Facts & Two buses to Amani There are now 2 ATM and over 300 species of butterfly. leave Muheza between but you cannot change Two campsites are available in the Figures 01.00 pm and 02.00 traveler cheques. How to get there Reserve - one with fixed water closet Muheza pm and pass Amani to From Muheza the Amani Nature at ANR HQ, the second one (Kiganga) Main Transport Kwamkoro or Bulwa. * Post Reserve is well indicated, leading on allowing mobile sanitary system. fares (2010) Situated by the a rough (all weather) road to Longuza v Bus : Health market, near NMB plantation forest. A 4-wheel-drive Other nearby guest houses include To/from: Tsh Hours Teule District Hospital BANK, Hours: 8.00 am car is required for continuing uphill the Emau Hill Forest Camp, Amani Tanga 1,500 (~ 1) Muheza town – 4.30 pm (Mon-Fri), to the Zigi gate (9 km from ANR HQ) Hill Guest House, the Roman Moshi 9,000 (~ 4.5) ( +255 (0)27 26 44121 9.00 am – 1.00 pm and to Amani. After the Zigi gate Catholic Mission and Malikitanda Arusha 10,000 (~ 6) 07.30 am - 03.30 pm (Sat) you will pass through the botanical Tea Research (for details see Lushoto 5,000 (~ 3) @ www.teule.or.tz garden until you reach the Amani Facts&Figures in Muheza). muhezaddh@ Nature Reserve Headquarters, which All direct buses to/ kaributanga.com HMuheza is at the crest of the ridge. Conference from Tanga going Hotels Amani Nature Reserve has one large to Dar es Salaam, * Shopping s-single, d-double Fees conference facility. Internet facility Lushoto, Arusha, Moshi Shopping in Muhewaza Contact the Nature Reserve or Tour is accessible at the HQ. and Mwanza pass daily is limited. Around the Muheza Town Operators for more information. through Muheza. The Central Market in the Golden Land Motel Butterfly Farming town is situated half town centre a little ( +255 (0)27 26 41242 Contacts The Amani Butterfly Project is one way between Segera up the hill, you’ll find +255 (0)719 002 261 Conservator of the uniquely livelihood projects and Tanga. small shops for food and @ motelg.land@ Amani Nature Reserve which are currently implemented clothing like kangas and yahoo.com ( +255 (0)27 26 40313 in the East Usambaras. It became Vehicles heading to kitenge. The market is s-25,000 d-30,000 @ amaninaturereservefbd@ operational in 2003 following Amani Nature Reserve open every day. yahoo.com various awareness and mobilization sometimes start at the Amani www.amaninature.org meetings and trainings in butterfly bus stand, some buses @ Internet Nature Reserve farming and environmental tend to hang around at There is an internet Sigi Rest House Accommodation education activities. Today the the start of the road cafe at the central gas ( +255 (0)27 26 40313 Two Guest houses are situated in project aims at promoting butterfly to Amani; walk 200 station with limited @ amaninature Amani Nature Reserve: one built farming in the East Usambara m into town from the access. Some hotels in reservefbd@ at the lower side known as Zigi Mountains and the conservation of bus stand (the stand Amani Nature Reserve yahoo.com Rest House and another one at the the local biodiversity and to create is on your left) and and in the area offer s-10,000 ANR Headquarters in Amani village, a model for future insect/ butterfly where road forks, bear internet access. Amani Medical offering self-contained rooms. Food farming projects in other areas of right and turn right Research Centre and drinks services are provided at Tanzania again. The unmarked l Money ( +255 (0)27 26 40313 stand for Amani is 50 NMB (near the market) s-25,000 d-30,000 Contact m along on the left is the only bank Emau Forest Camp ( +255 (0)784 802 899 before the railway operating in Muheza, ( +255 (0)782 656 526 +255 (0)655 802 899 crossing opposite the offering to change cash @ [email protected] @ papilio@ encouraging named money only. Hours: 8.30 www.emauhill.com amanibutterfly ‘Death Row Electronics’ am – 4.00 pm Mon-Fri, for prices see website Rural Road project.org shop. 8.30 am – 1.30 pm Sat. 90 91 570 mm in the lowland to 1,910 mm Euro-Africa migrant birds. in the highland. The temperature The Mkomazi National Park is the varies from 18 to 29 ºC; July and south most extension of Sahel in August being the coolest months. East Africa and the second largest trans-frontier protected area in East Vegetation Cover Africa after the famous Serengeti Mkomazi National Park is within National Park. the Sudanian phytogeographical zone dominated by Acacia and What to do Commiphora woodland species. Its Operational Activities vegetation is characterized by two • Day game watching physiognomic types: the dry upland • Guided walking safaris forest in the western mountainous • Bird watching area, and plain vegetations with • Eco–tourism in the villages Mkomazi National Park bushed and wooded grassland. adjacent to the Mkomazi NP The Mkomazi National Park is halfway between Kilimanjaro and Tanga between Arusha and Tanga. This Region; its northern border is the Wild Animals Rhino and Wild dog viewing will route goes through Mkomazi and the Tsavo West National Park in Kenya. The Park is rich in giraffes, Coke’s be gradually introduced using the Usambara Mountains, and thus offers The Park is 130 km long from east to hartebeests, buffalos, gerenuks, experience from Kenya Wildlife perfect stopovers from the northern west and 41 km from north to south. Grant gazelles, Lesser kudus and Service (Tsavo West and Meru parks and Kilimanjaro to the Indian Water bucks. Larger carnivores National Parks). Guidelines for rhino Ocean and Tanga Region. Physical Features include lions, leopards, hyenas, silver- viewing will be used to monitor and The northern part of Mkomazi backed jackals, wild dogs and wild control the activity in the Special History National Park is highly dominated cats. The largest terrestrial mammal Use Zone. The word Mkomazi is coined from by the northern Pare - Usambara - the elephant – lives in the Park too! the Pare language, which is a mountain range arc in Tanzania, Facilities & Services combination of the two words ‘Mko’ formed of metamorphic rocks. Attractions • Tracks for game watching (a traditional wooden spoon used The Park’s altitude varies between and site seeing by the for eating) and 900 – 1,600 metres above sea Mkomazi has a great diversity • Tourist guiding ‘Mazi’ (water). This suggests that level. The open plains consist of of landscapes with small mosaic • Camping service (at both the water in the Park is too scarce Precambrian rocks covered with habitat types, creating niches for a public and special campsites) to even fill a wooden spoon. Indeed, superficially alluvial soil deposits. rich biodiversity. This makes it one • Tours into Mkomazi NP can be the Park lacks water sources due to The predominant soils in the Park of the richest savannahs in Africa organized by local tour little rainfall in the area. are the red to reddish brown sandy and possibly in the world with operators (see pages 13 & 77) clays, which cover hills and ridges. rare and endemic fauna and Mkomazi Game Reserve was flora, e.g. the Black rhinos upgraded to the highest conservation Climate and Wild dogs. It is the only status by being declared as a The climate of Mkomazi National Park in Tanzania with large National Park with a size of 3,245 Park is semi-arid. The long rains and visible population of km² on 14th March 2008. occur between February and May, Gerenuk (Litocranius walleri) while the short ones last from and massive concentrations of Location September through November. Oryx (Oryx beisa). In addition, Mkomazi National Park is located Mean annual rainfall ranges from it forms a special habitat for Zebras 92 93 Fees @ [email protected] Entrance s-33,000/60,000 20 USD (1,500 Tsh for Tz) d-38,500/93,500 Guided Walk executive-55,000/107,800 20 USD (5,000)/day/p.p. suite-66,000/118,800 Camping (own tent) Orlando Lodge 30 USD (2,000)/day/p.p. ( +255 (0)27 27 56878 Car (below 2 t) +255 (0)787 679 944 40 USD (10,000) s-25,000 Car (above 2 t) Modern Rest House 150 USD (25,000) ( +255 (0)27 27 57399 +255 (0)762 585 419 How to get there s-15,000 v Road Same Lodge The Park is easily accessible via Same town ( +255 (0)27 2758812 on the surfaced highway road connecting +255 (0)756 145 806 Arusha and Dar es Salaam. The distance s-15,000 from Tanga is about 250 km, from Lushoto Kamwala Tours & Safaris Lodge 80km, from Kilimanjaro International ( +255 (0)27 27 57022 Airport 142 km and from Moshi 112 km. +255 (0)715 499 242 Entry into the Park is currently through the @ [email protected] Zange gate. However, special arrangement s-12,000 can be made to use the other gates. Amani Lutheran Centre ( Air ( +255 (0)27 27 58098 Only Kisima airstrip is registered by +255 (0)756 764 988 the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority @ [email protected] and used by chartered flights. s-7,000, d-10,000 Mambo View Point When to visit the Park (Mtae/Usambara Mtns) Late June to early September is the see ‘Lushoto’ section for details best time to watch large mammals Tona Lodge and birds, scenic beauty is at its (40 km from 40 Same) peak in March to June. ( +255 (0)754 852 010 @ tonalodge.org Accommodation s-12 USD Babu’s Tented Camp (inside the Park) Pangani River Campsite ( +255 (0)27 25 03094 (Near Mkomazi town) +255 (0)784 402 266 ( +255 (0)766 019 633 @ [email protected] @ panganirivercamp.com www.babuscamp.com camping 5 USD s-300 USD d-270 USD Zebra Camp Site Elephant Motel ( +255 (0)787 377 775 ( +255 (0)27 27 58193 @ untamedhorizons.com +255 (0)754 839 545 s- 35 USD 94 95 blocked the entrance to Tanga port. Japanese attack. The underground Kronborg transported supplies for bunkers, holding generators for anti the German troops under Colonel submarine loops, gun placements Von Lettow-Vorbeck and the famed and living quarters are still there and embattled German warship today. (See detailed information: Königsberg that was hiding in the http://indicatorloops.com/ vast Rufiji delta in the south, after manza.htm) she had sunk the British cruiser Pegasus in Zanzibar port in 1914. Maboza is the fishing village right When chased and under fire from along the main road where the the British warship Hyacinth, ‘dagaa’ fisherman land early in the Kronborg’s captain beached her morning to sell their nightly catches. inside Manza Bay and set the timber deck cargo alight, making Moa bay is an important site of Mkinga, Handeni, Kilindi the British believe that the ship was ancient Arabic settlements and Tanga Region has three more boat building are the prime coastal destroyed. After Hyacinth had given culture. In the days of the sisal Districts that are a little bit further activities. her up and departed, the Germans boom, the local sisal growers off the beaten track, but provide extinguished the fire, set up a shipped their produce out of Moa. interesting features for tourists. Further inland, agriculture takes base on land (still called “Boma” They used a small gauge railway precedence with coconut, sisal, peninsula today) and recovered that has unfortunately not survived. Mkinga cashew, fruit plantations as well as most of Kronborg’s supplies Mkinga in the north of Tanga City livestock keeping. of arms and ammunitions. stretches up to the Kenyan border These allowed Lettow- and Mombasa, via Horohoro border Offshore activities Vorbeck to continue the war post (66 km from Tanga). Mkinga is Offshore, several beautiful reefs until after the armistice in one of Tanzania’s newest districts, with sand bars pop up at low tide; 1918. Kronborg remained a dissected from the vast Muheza snorkelling, diving, sailing, fishing partly submerged wreck in district. New District headquarters is well worth the time. Many local Manza Bay until 1956, when and planned surrounding settlements fisherman and boat owners would she was salvaged and towed are currently constructed, and the be happy to take people out to these to Dar es Salaam and her road from Tanga to Horohoro will be diverse and ‘untouched’ places. The remaining cargo of coal sold Sport Fishing (soon) upgraded to tarmac. famed Pemba channel is known for its to the East African Railways and Relics of the shipping store and jetty billfish fishing, including six different Harbours, thus powering trains and can still be seen. The road north takes you past species: black, blue and striped ships 40 years after being brought several fishing villages including marlin, broadbill swordfish, sailfish to East Africa! The wreck is still Duga is the last settlement before Chongoleani, Kwale, Boma and the rare shortbill spearfish. indicated in today’s marine maps, reaching the border and has the peninsula, Maboza, and Moa. The but nothing can be found at the site main police station in this area. coastline follows an extremely Manza Bay was the site of several anymore. irregular pattern including huge military and naval deployments The valley of the borders bays (Kwale, Manza and Moa) and both in the 1st and 2nd World During WW2 the Allies used the the Mkomazi National Park and is vast mangrove forests dispersed Wars. During WW1 in 1915, the Manza Bay entrance to set up the site of numerous gemstone with occasional beaches. Fishing as German ship Kronborg took refuge part of the East African coastal mines, being inhabited by Maasai well as sea salt manufacturing and in Manza Bay when British warships defences against an imminent pastoralists. 96 97 There is one Hotel in Mkinga Bwawani Hotel offering standard accommodation: outside Chanika, foot of Handeni Fish Eagle Point Hill, self-contained Rondavels Sisal Plantation Mkadini beach, 40 km from Tanga 15,000/25,000 City on Mombasa Road, turn off Sawe Hotel Sea Turtle to Manza or also known as Boma middle of town, near post office Peninsula self-contained rooms ( +255 (0)784 346 006 20,000 +255 (0)782 748 698 Mama Zekuze @ [email protected] near German Boma and District [email protected] Hospital, self-contained rooms www.fisheaglepoint.com 10,000/15,000 (fb) 65/100 USD p.p. Kilindi Handeni West of Handeni and very much Handeni is the home of the Maasai off the beaten tracks is Kilindi. Its Plain. It opens sheer endlessly from rural atmosphere with no major the Usambara Mountains southwards. settlements gives an interesting Visiting Maasai Villages can be a insight in the life of local farmers, superb highlight of a Tanzania trip if still lived by two thirds of the organized by tour operators. Tanzanian citizens.

There are few hotels in Handeni town offering standard accommodation: The lack of tarmac roads makes a visit of Kilindi quite challenging, requiring local guidance. 98 99 Bombo Hospital, Tanga City

Hotel Kaiserhof, Tanga City

Old Pangani Town

Forest Carved Door

Ngalawa Farm near Lushoto Acknowledgements We really wish to thank the following people for going out of their way and spending Sponsors many hours of volunteer work to make this Tourism Guide possible: Alex Berg, Laurent Herman, Musa Dengo, Herman Erdtsieck, Ikwabe Koroso, Anette & Peter Murless, Halima Omari, Christoph Pörksen, Sibylle Riedmiller, Cindy Wenzel and the many contributors correcting and improving sections of the guide. This book was written under the supervision of the former City Director of Tanga, Mr. Majuto Mbuguyu, and the acting City Director of Tanga, M. J. Gikene. Special thanks to our graphic designer Camiel Dhooge.

Some texts are based on a variety of public sources, incl. URITHI newsletters and regional web pages.

Picture Credits E. Grotenhuis (covers), L. Schoonman (URITHI), M. Pörksen, S. Riedmiller, A. & P. Murless, A. Maas, Kiboko, H. Heile, M. Yllera, D. Marty, K. LUSHOTO Hissmann/J.Schauer, L. Mundt, K. Langjahr, C. Wenzel, H. Erdtsiek, N. Schneider, R. Suter, Mkomazi & Saadani National Parks (TANAPA) MKINGA

KOROGWE TANGA MUHEZA

KILINDI PANGANI

HANDENI

Contact Writing, editing and designing of this guide has been done entirely as volunteer work. For feedback, suggestions and updates please contact Printing of the first edition of this guide has been financed by the Tanga City Council Tanga Tourism Network Association (TATONA) (P.O. Box 178 Tanga, [email protected]). [email protected] We thank the German Development Service for advisory support.

Tanga Tourism Guide – 2nd edition, January 2011 Please be responsible with this guide, leave it at a hotel, give it to a fellow traveler, share! Produced by Tanga City Council

Tourism Guide for the Tanga Region, Tanzania