Wines to Wait Too Long to Crack Them Open

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Also recommended: n Château La Raz Caman Paris AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 FRANCE 45° Bordeaux n Château des Tourtes, Cuvée Prestige AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 n Château Maison Neuve AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 Report by Jane Anson, Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent Reds Château Montlandrie The Côtes de Bordeaux: 10% of Bordeaux still hovering at around 20% overall in the wines in this vintage show perfect freshness AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 wine produced in the region each year, 1000 export stakes however (compared to 39% for and lift, and there are some excellent varietal 17.5/20pts (91pts/100) Highly recommended winegrowers, four beautiful areas lying to the Bordeaux as a whole, and well over 70% for the characteristics of sauvignon blanc, sémillon and [email protected] Right Bank of the Dordogne and Garonne more famous classified names). That means it is muscadelle. So for both styles, there is no need Form an orderly queue (I’ll be right there rivers. As pleasurable to visit as they are to not always easy to get hold of the best wines to wait too long to crack them open. Some of the alongside you) for an affordable wine from the search out in your local wine store, the names without visiting the area – lucky then that local bigger styles could benefit from an hour opening legendary Denis Durantou of Pomerol’s l’Eglise Dordogne to remember with the Côtes de Bordeaux are winemakers are also welcoming more and more before drinking – but the most important thing Clinet. Durantou bought this estate in 2009, Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon and Francs. The four visitors to their own estates each year. There with these bottles is to find a few friends to and has been steadily replanting the vineyard regions grouped together from the 2009 are four local wine festivals in the Côtes, plus a share them with, and open them alongside a ever since, but there are still some old vines vintage, with one aim – to make things simpler Marathon held in the city of Blaye, harvest range of food styles. Their soft fruitiness, and Garonne among the new, planted high on a limestone for wine drinkers when looking to choose walks in Cadillac, and an annual reconstruction medium weight in terms of tannins and structure ridge. This is elegant, everything is where it pleasurable, fruit-filled bottles of wine that of the famous Battle of Castillon where the make them highly accessible for food matching. should be, with clean fresh summer fruit, and offer some of the best value for money in the English were defeated at the end of the a touch of restraint. This is a winemaker who whole Bordeaux region. Hundred Years War (an event that saw the area knows how to rein things in, but it would return to France only after the love affair benefit from a good half an hour of opening These are mainly small family estates (the between the English and Bordeaux wine had Wines to try before tucking in. This is a good wine, everything average is between 37 to 50 acres), making been firmly established). Both Cadillac and that you want a petit château to achieve. 97% red wine, with merlot as the main grape Francs have beautiful historic châteaux that are Whites variety. Many are producing organic or open to visitors and that date back to the Grand Vin de Château Haut Bertinerie biodynamic wines, and all are committed to Middle Ages, and all four regions have local AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 Clos Puy Arnaud respecting the environment, preserving the Maisons des Vins which offer regular tastings 17.25 (90+) Highly recommended AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 sun-drenched south-facing slopes (the and wine tourism events. Vines have been www.myliko.co.uk A full 90% Sémillon, and 5% each of Sauvignon One of the oldest estates in the Blaye region, 17 (90) Highly recommended meaning of the word Côtes) that protect their planted in these regions since Roman times, Excellent sauvignon nose, best varietal flavour of Blanc and Sauvignon Gris makes this wine stand owned by Stéphane Heurlier. This cuvée comes £23 Vintage Roots, www.vintageroots.co.uk grapes while offering stunning views down and you will find the landscape dotted with any wine in this tasting. The wine offers lovely out. I have to say I still got plenty of citrus and from 50% Sauvignon Gris, 20% Sauvignon I am a long-time admirer of winemaker valleys to the rivers below. And all work historic châteaux, manor houses, fortresses crisp gooseberry and cut grass flavours, with a grassy aromas on the nose, but with a roundness Blanc and 30% Sémillon, and is well structured. Thierry Valette, who easily makes some of the together under the Côtes de Bordeaux umbrella and UNESCO World Heritage sites such as the citrus tang, and is seriously enjoyable stuff. and structure that showed the majority grape Sauvignon Gris and Sémillon are excellent best wines of Castillon. This has poise, elegance with one interest in common – to produce Citadelle de Blaye, a military fortress variety. A good foodie white wine. 13.5%abv. complements to each other, and the apricoty, and complexity. A really good wine, confident easy-to-enjoy wines that respect the place that overlooking the Gironde Estuary. lower-acidity range of white fruits serves this and bright. From biodynamic grapes, aged for they have come from. Château Puyanché well. 8 months in oak (15% new) and 6 months in The Côtes wines excel in easy-drinking years AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 Château Montfollet Le Valentin cement tanks. Blend is 70% Merlot, 30% Since joining together to form one group, such as 2011. This is a vintage where tannins are 16-16.5 (86-87) Recommended. AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 Cabernet Franc, 14%abv. exports for the Côtes de Bordeaux have risen soft, and wines will be ready to drink from now www.godardbellevue.com 16 (86) Recommended Château Les Bertrands, Cuvée Prestige 39% in just the last two years alone. They are and for the next three to five years. The white Stuart Calder www.chateaux-solidaires.com AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 Lovely grip on this wine, clear layered fruit Dominique Raimond winemaker here. This is 15.5 (85) Recommended Château La Croix Lartigue flavours, very attractive lime blossom and fresh good, subtle, needs some airing to aerate the www.chateaulesbertrands.com AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 citrus flavours. Like this a lot. Round edge 40% of Sémillon, which is blended with 60% www.topselection.co.uk 17 (90) Highly recommended comes through on the mid palate. Sauvignon Blanc, aged in oak. Fresh, crisp, good sauvignon character, balanced Great wine from Simon Blanchard, Stéphane by some toasted almond notes. Good value for Derenoncourt and Julien Lavenu (who bill a more structured foodie style of white. 100% themselves on the bottle as Les Trois Origines). Château Les Faix Château Berthenon Sauvignon Blanc, with six months in French As is fairly typical from Castillon, alcohol is high AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 oak, and lees stirring. at 14%abv but this tastes excellent, lots of fruit, 16 (86) Recommended 15.5 (85) Recommended really enjoyable, round and sweet with silky www.tutiac.com www.chateauberthenon.com tannins, impactful without being overpowering. Nice fresh profile, grassy and hay rather than Fairly large, 32 hectares estate in Blaye, making Découverte, Les Vignerons de Tutiac 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, aged in oak citrus, very delicate, 12%abv and it does feel here a lovely Sauvignon Blanc wine, light and AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 for 16 months (one third new oak). light and delicate. Not huge impact, but gentle, refreshing at 12.5%abv, but still with plenty of 15.5 (85) Recommended enjoyable, 100% Sauvignon Blanc. flavour going on here, some lime, citrus zest, www.tutiac.com oy R good zing, not huge persistency, but enjoyable. Good, fleshy, well-structured, rich mouthfeel Château Clos Chaumont from a touch of skin contact before direct AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Château Lacaussade Saint-Martin, pressing of the grapes. Layered on top of 17 (90) Highly recommended ‘Trois Moulins’ Grand Vin du Château La Bretonnière this is a lovely sprightly citrus zing. Aged on www.closchaumont.com AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2012 fine lees in stainless steel tanks, all aimed at Both the second and first wine from this property 16 (86) Recommended 15.5 (85) Recommended keeping typicity of the fruit. 12%abv, were tasted, and I enjoyed them both, although

Photograph:CIVB/Philippe www.lacaussade-saintmartin.com [email protected] 100% Sauvignon Blanc. this one won the day. Hubert de Bouard is ➢ Decanter promotion decanter promotion

consultant, and has been able to make the most Grand Vin de Château Haut Bertinerie Château Fontpeyre Clément much. After five minutes in glass things open of numerous investments made by owner AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 and evolve, excellent potential. Pieter Verbeek since he bought in the early 16.5 (88) Recommended 16.5 (88) Recommended 1990s. Blend is 53% Merlot, 25% Cabernet www.myliko.co.uk www.chateaucafol.com Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc. Enjoyable One of the biggest and most reliable names in Lovely wine, all fireside smoky cinders Château Courrèges right from first nose, with a blast of good clean Blaye, this is a blend of 60% Merlot, 40% followed up by brambly fruits. 13% abv, blend AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 fruit, promise of more to come without being Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines. They have is 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. 16.25-16.5 (87-88) Recommended overpowering. As the palate lengthens out, get gone for maximum effect here with a full 14% www.vignobleslandeau.fr fleshy fruit, a tiny bit drying, but things are abv from the blend, and that does threaten to Strikingly modern stripey label, which is a brought back by a mouth-watering finish, and unbalance things, but they pull it back in from Château Reynon useful indication for the fact that this has its good persistency. Enjoyable second wine also, the brink with lashings of yummy dark fruits. AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 own clear identity. Made from a blend of old Charmes de Clos Chaumont. Lyre trellising is used at the estate to ensure 16.25-16.5 (87-88) Recommended vines of Malbec and a larger proportion of the Cabernet Sauvignon gets to full ripeness, £12.50 The Wine Society, Merlot, from Vignobles Landeau. 14%abv, so which is how I guess they have got such lush www.thewinesociety.com fairly high, but well-defined flavours, on the Domaine de l’A blueberry flavours going on. A modern wine, Consultant and oenology professor Denis dark, brooding spectrum, more on the cassis, AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 and a good one. Dubourdieu owns this pretty estate, and has blackberry, some liquorice, tight tannins, and 16.75 (89) Recommended made it his home since 1976. It has been the a brust of fresh mint on the finish. Silky Probably the most well-known of all Castillon site of many of his experiments with improving texture, enjoyable. châteaux, and as usual it does not disappoint. Château Glorit viticulture and winemaking, and straight Talented winemaking from Stéphane AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 from the first nose you get the benefits of Derencourt’s home esate, this has a lovely 16.5 (88) Recommended that – there is fatter, richer fruit than many Château de Ricaud, Réserve des Coteaux purple blush, almost en primeur vibrancy, www.alliancebourg.com of the other wines tasted. On the palate, AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 nose fruity but restrained. Really like this, An enjoyable wine from vigneron Denis some toasted oak flavours, and good structure. 16.25-16.5 (87-88) Recommended clean attack, great fruits, just thrown by Blend is 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, Domaine de l’Aurage Coudroy. The grapes here are made up of 70% It is still a little short on the finish, but this is £9 Thienot UK, Champagne & Châteaux heat coming through on finish. 80% Merlot, with 9 months in barrel (of both one and two AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet a wine that you would be very happy to A good wine from the ever-reliable Vignobles 20% Cabernet Franc. years old oak, so no new). 16.5 (88) Recommended Franc. Pretty tasty, with round, ripe fruit, gentle crack open. Dourthe. This is enjoyable classic Bordeaux. £30 Corney & Barrow, touches of mocha, but nothing overly intrusive. Good fruit, ripe flavours, they clearly managed www.corneyandbarrow.com Simple, enjoyable. the reception of the grapes after harvest Château Biac Château Godard-Bellevue 13.5%abv. A distinctive nose strikes you from Domaine du Seuil smoothly and quickly, everything feels AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 the off, I get strong coffee and liquorice, AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 smoothed out, no unripe hints, soft oak 16.75 (89) Recommended 16.5 (88) Recommended heading to over extracted but holds back Château Monconseil-Gazin 16.25-16.5 (87-88) Recommended fattening out the mid-palate. Blend is 90% Approx £30 www.fmvwines.com www.godardbellevue.com before goes too far, good ripe creme caramel, AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Approx £11 Virgin Wines www.virginwines.co.uk, Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Consultant at this property is Patrick Leon, Stuart Calder with that smoky seductive feeling balanced out 16.5 (88) Recommended Fine Wines Direct Wales, Verdot. ex-Mouton Rothschild winemaker (or rather, Oak ageing, 14%abv. Enjoyable rusticity here, by ripe, oozing fruits. This spends 20 months Approx £12 The Wine Society, Theatre of Wine www.finewinesdirectuk.com; Matthew Clark his son is more usually found here these days). smooth texture, has good feeling, something to in a special Radoux barrel. 90% Merlot, Ever-reliable winemaker Michel Baudet has Blend of 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and From first nose you feel the ambition of this grab on to, nice coffee and mocha, quite meaty 10% Cabernet Franc. got the best out of a challenging vintage once Merlot, from the Allison family. This is young Château La Cassagne-Boutet wine. The estate has an excellent terroir, and and masculine, with a good kick from 12 months again. Up on the Gazin plateau, and coming right now, needs time to unfurl, on first AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 has had lots of recent investment. Lush, deep oak ageing (30% new oak). Blend is 65% Merlot, in at 13%abv, this has dark brambly fruits, attach get a touch of green pepper, but that 16.25 (87) Recommended fruit. Doesn’t feel like a 2011, which is a 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Château Côte Montpezat, succulent blackcurrants with a touch of gives a pleasant juiciness rather than any www.chateaulacassagneboutet.com compliment. Quite clear dark chocolate, mocha, Cuvée Compostelle sweet vanilla that shows an elegant use of indication of unripeness, and is followed up Bright, firm fruit and plenty to enjoy in this feels slick, with plush damson jam fruits. There AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 oak. The family has been making wine here quickly by good fleshy fruits. Nice use of oak, wine, from the Vergez family. The blend here is is an enjoyable second wine B de Biac (tasted Château Réaut 16.5 (88) Recommended for 115 years. get an infusion of sweetness without being too Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, and the mix also), which is a little more rustic, less polished, AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Cambridge Wine Merchants, of the dark spice of Malbec and the softer floral but charming for that. 16.5 (88) Recommended www.cambridgewine.com notes of Cabernet Franc have been well £15.25 www.bbr.com Modern-style wine from Vignobles Bessineau. handled, offering a lift on the finish but plenty This feels plump right from the first attack, The label is a touch busy, but appealing all of weight in the mid palate. Château Mont Pérat flush with dark fruits; damson and black cherry the same with its link to southwest France’s AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 compote, really quite strong, pure fruit flavours, Compostelle pilgrim’s trail. A high 14.5%abv, 16.5 (88) Recommended impressive. This estate is run by Yannick but things balance out well, with good ripe Château Lapeyronie www.despagne.fr Evenou, managing director of Château La fruits, mocha chocolate dusting that is highly AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Flush of heat on the attack, but like the full, ripe Dominique in Saint Emilion, and is backed appealing. Good use of oak, and a blend of 16.25 (87) Recommended feel of the fruit here. Get plum, damson, sweet by a consortium of Bordeaux and Burgundy 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and [email protected] cherry, cedar oak, again that contemporary investors, as well as smaller investors. 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A turbo-charged blend of 70% Merlot, 15% flush, a touch of reduction perhaps but will Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, with open up, no need to wait for this wine to be 14% abv. The rich red fruit balance things out, enjoyable. From the Despagne family, blend Château Cap de Faugères Château Maison Neuve and there are appealing traces of coffee beans of 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 from the oak. Lovely smooth texture. Same 10% Cabernet Franc. 16.5 (88) Recommended 16.5 (88) Recommended owner has La Font du Jeu in Castillon Côtes de £15 Bordeaux Index, www.bordeauxindex.com www.chateau-maisonneuve.com Bordeaux, another wine which showed well in The Silvio Denz Castillon estate that lies just 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, from a this tasting. Château Beynat, Cuvée Léonard metres away from his now classified Saint family property with 40 hectares of vines

AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Emilion vines. Well balanced at 13.5%abv, good overlooking the village of Saint Palais. On the F R 16.5 (88) Recommended tannic frame filled out by mouth-watering, juicy nose, there is firm red fruit, medium cherry Château la Clarière Laithwaite www.chateaubeynat.com summer fruits, fairly ripe, but not overly so, am intensity, with a deftness of touch, and a fresh AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Good clean nose, deep dark autumn fruits. picturing tucking into this with a steaming bowl life that is very attractive, a touch of cold 16.25 (87) Recommended

Lovely rich fruits, this has heat but still balance. of fresh tomato pasta. cinders smoke in the mid palate. Photograph:123 £22 Directwines.co.uk ➢ Decanter promotion decanter promotion

A wine that offers regular drinking pleasure, things at this Blaye property (which I believe lovely 18th century property, run by Cécile Château Ségonzac, Vieilles Vignes from Henry Laithwaite’s pretty estate in the sells large amounts to the UK through a Calais and Thierry Mallié-Verdier. Summer fruits and AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 village of Sainte-Colombe. The estate was cash-and-carry). The blend is Merlot and softly spicy cloves on the nose, filling things 16 (86) Recommended bought by his father Tony Laithwaite in Cabernet Sauvignon, with a touch of Malbec. out with a touch of rounded oak notes. www.chateau-segonzac.com 1980, but his son has now taken over the Pretty juicy, like the cassis tang, and remains This is successful – you can feel the additions Today run by Charlotte and Thomas Herter, property. This has a deft touch on the full and firm all the way to the finish line. that they have made in the Prestige Cuvée the estate has been certified organic since the extraction, ensuring the fruit is firm but compared to their main château version (also 2012 vintage. Just right amount of rusticity on fresh and light, get redcurrants and crushed tasted), but it works, and doesn’t feel in any the nose, and real personality, enjoyable. The raspberries. 12 months in French oak. Blend of Château Lagrave-Aubert way overdone. Vieilles Vignes cuvée is made from vines aged 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 between 40 and 62 years old, and is aged in 10% Cabernet Franc. 16.25 (87) Recommended oak for 12 months. www.aubert-vignobles.com Château Vieux Planty, Prélude Oak ageing for 18 months after vinification AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Château des Demoiselles from Vignobles Aubert of La Cousapaude in 16 (86) Recommended Château Berthenon, Cuvée Chloé AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Saint Emilion, coupled with low temperature [email protected] AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 16.25 (87) Recommended winemaking and manual punching down of Sweet cedar wood and crushed cherries from 16 (86) Recommended £12.50, Spirited Wines, www.spiritedwines.co.uk, the cap during vinification. Cheerful, bright winemaker Arnaud Ovide. Blend is 70% Merlot, www.chateauberthenon.com Nicolas, www.nicolas.co.uk cherry flavours that carry through to the palate, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, softly enjoyable, The bottle is so heavy need two of you to lift it up, Round rich, smattering of digestive biscuit, this has a lightness of touch that I am enjoying, overall potential. and comes complete with a metal label to add a touch of sweet oak from the one year barrel fruit is on the freshly ripe not over ripe scale, few more pounds! However, if we (and the planet) ageing, feel a little heat rising off the wine, plenty to sink in to. can forgive them for that, there is a good rich alcohol puts things a touch out of balance, Château de Laussac blend of 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon in but overall this is enjoyable, nicely teased AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 here. As the bottle clearly tells you, this is a wine out fruit. 13%abv, from blend of 70% Merlot, Château Mondésir-Gazin 16 (86) Recommended with ambition – it has spent 18 months in new 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. A Ducourt family AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 www.vignoblesrobin.com oak, and is well textured, bristling with fruit. wine – good name to remember for quality 16.25 (87) Recommended From winemaker A.N. Robin, from a blend of wines at lower prices. www.mondesirgazin.com, 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc grown of Swig, www.swig.co.uk southern-facing slopes. This is a little burnt, get Château Laroche, I like this, from a confident blend of 80% Merlot some figs, prunes and cinammon spices. AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Château La Bretonnière, and 20% Malbec. High alcohol, but here you Unlikely to age well, but if you’re happy to open 16 (86) Recommended Cuvée Excellence don’t notice it too much as good fleshy dark now, and share a bottle with a few friends over £7 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 fruit, clear definition and tannic hold, staying a plate of lasagne or curry, there’s a lot to enjoy. £10 (Cuvée Elise) 16.25 (87) Recommended power. And a mouth-watering acidity to finish Also enjoyed their cuvée Sacha (presented in Mark Walford, Richards Walford and Company, [email protected] off. Great winemaking from Marc and Laurence same tasting). r-w.co.uk Enjoyable wine from owner Stéphane Heurlier. Pasquet. No chemical weedkillers or pesticides I tasted a range of wines from Vignobles The blend is dominated by 85% Merlot, with used on the vines, and grapes always harvested unbalanced, but there is good dark fruit here, masculine, drops of tar. You might not think Dudon, and all were good, but I have selected 15% Cabernet Sauvignon bringing up the rear. entirely by hand. and good persistency on the finish. I am saying all of this as a compliment, but Château Le Grand Moulin, in the end this one, which has a soft cherry red This is a little difficult to settle down with, it has won me over. Grande Réserve colour, and very nicely placed fruit. A mouth- and the 14.5%abv just needs a nudge more AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 watering finish, and nothing is overpowered by fruit to justify it, but once it had been in the Château de Belcier Château Tertre de Belves 16 (86) Recommended the 13.5% alcohol. This is not a big wine, far from glass for a while, the fruit flavours began to AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Château Brethous, www.grandmoulin.com it, but pretty, 70% Merlot, 13% Cabernet really open up. Also enjoyed the main 16.25 (87) Recommended 16.25 (87) Recommended Cuvée Prestige Nose offers clean fruit, good defintion and Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, château bottling (shown in same tasting). £20.40, Alexir House Ltd £15 Hedonist Wines, www.hedonistwines.com AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 ripeness. Nice coffee overtones, this is modern and would be just great with pizza or easy Barrel aging for this blend of Merlot and Diane and Olivier Sulzer have made this hefty 16 (86) Recommended maybe a little too abrupt, certain in your face supper. Their Cuvée Elise is slicker, with Cabernet Franc, with a tiny swirl of Malbec. The 14% wine from 100% Merlot grapes with 14 www.castelnau.co.uk, tanins and tautness, but potential. Blend is 75% overtones of chocolate if you would rather Château d’Anvichar smoky oak notes are pretty apparent right from months in new French oak (both 225 litres and www.winesofquality.co.uk Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, go for that style, also recommended. AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 the first nose. This is a big masculine beefcake the larger 400 litres to limit the oak flavours a Organic wines, certified since 2012, at this 13% abv. 16.25 (87) Recommended of a wine, 14% abv, lashing of fruit, a crowd touch). Even with the heat that inevitably [email protected] pleaser I would imagine. Biggest property in the accompanies the alcohol, this has a light touch, Château Les Hauts de Palette Anne-Marie and Vincent Galineau have made this tiny Castillon village of Les Salles (and named and builds in flavour over the mid palate to the AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 wine, and have put their mobile number of the after a former owner who lost his head in the close of pay, which is a characteristic of good 16 (86) Recommended back label… seems very open and welcoming French Revolution, if you would like a little quality wines, and at a fair price. [email protected] of them. Quite modern from the off, these guys story to accompany your drinking…). £11.99 Rosin Fine Wines Ascot are not afraid of a bit of oak, very much cloves Charles Yung et Fils are the owners at this and smoky bacon flavours mixing in with Château Lamothe de Haux, estate. Charming wine, perhaps a little sweet damsons and crushed raspberries. Château La Raz Caman Première Cuvée from the oak influence (are they using chips, as No surprise to learn that this is 100% Merlot, AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 get quite strong vanilla flavours?) but this offers aged in barrel (although no new). 16.25 (87) Recommended 16.25 (87) Recommended hugely approachable, enjoyably tasty flavours, www.larazcaman.com www.chateau-lamothe.com, and no harsh drying finish even with the oak. 58% Merlot, 20% Malbec, 15% Cabernet £33 Rodney Densem Wines One to crack open without fuss. 13%abv. Château Cap Saint-Martin, Sauvignon 7% Cabernet Franc - all displayed on The estate is run by Anne Néel and her Cuvée Prestige front label unusually, nice consumer friendly children Maria and Damien Chombart. AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 touch from winemaker Jean Francois The wine comes in at 13.5%abv, and there is Château Lagarosse, Cuvée les Comtes 16.25 (87) Recommended Pommeraud. Enjoyable wine from this 40 clear oak influence, with strong smoky AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 www.cap-saint-martin.fr hectares family estate, now on its seventh bacons swirls through the cherry compote 15.75 (86) Recommended Béatrice and Pierre Ardoin are doing good generation. Again alcohol is a touch fruits. Definite personality going on, hefty, www.lagarosse.fr ➢ Decanter promotion decanter promotion

Owned by Steve Loo and his Hong Kong-based Château Floreal Laguens Château les Guyonnets, Cuvée Prestige company Carlico, working alongside winemaker AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Benoit Coq, this Tabanac estate has seen plenty 15.75 (86) Recommended 15.5 (85) Recommended of investments since the new team took over in [email protected] www.chateau-les-guyonnets.fr 2011, so with this vintage. Steven Blais is the René Floreal Laguens owner, blend 46% Merlot, Sophie and Didier Tordeur have made this consultant (from Michel Rolland team). There 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, special cuvée of old vines. I also tasted their has been a clear and conscious effort to flesh get that freshness and aromatic lift from the main Château Les Guyonnets, which is also out the wine, plump things up a little, perhaps Cabernet Franc, there is a real sense of delicacy worth looking out for, although far more they have overused the oak (staves would be and elegance to this wine, like it. understated. This old-vine cuvée has turned my guess) so imagine this might dry out within up the oak and the alcohol, as you have to five years, but there’s plenty to enjoy right now, expect whenever you see this style of wine, and this style of wine is not made for sticking in Château Le Thys but it has a lovely dark plum colour, and a cellar. Clear layers of fruit -ripe blueberries AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 the rich fruit on the nose is layered in with and crushed raspberries. It’s a modern with all 15.5-15.75 (85-86) Recommended touches of chocolate. Only issue is a touch that is good and bad about that. www.chateau-birot.com hot in alcohol (14.5%), but this makes an Charming right from the off. They have impact and has great potential if opened for teased some riper fruit out of the vintage, an hour or so before drinking. Château Montfollet Le Valentin so we have here the warmer side of the AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 spectrum with raspberries and strawberries. 15.75 (86) Recommended Helene and Eric Fournier-Casteja have made Château de Paillet-Quancard www.chateaux-solidaires.com wine here since 1989, and raised their five AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 From winemaker Dominique Raimond, an boys at the estate. Today their fourth son 15.5 (85) Recommended interesting blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Malbec. Arthur is taking over thing. A little short on £7.50 Producteurs et Vignerons de France; I’m really enjoying how many winemakers in the finish, but this should have a few years Hayward Bros; Move Sussex; the Côtes are using Malbec in their blends, ageing in it. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet www.chevalquancard.com certainly gives a point of difference from other Sauvignon, 13%abv. Sweet cherry and charred oak on the nose. planted at the highpoint of the vineyard in Château Chatard n Château Ricaud regions. Alcohol comes in at 14%, but the dark Modern, contemporary, consumer-friendly Haux, a very attractive village that is itself AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 spice of Malbec is a good buffer for the heat. This wine from négociant house Cheval Quancard. on one of the highest points of the Cadillac 15.25 (84) Recommended n Château Frédignac, Cuvée Prestige is tight and touch, you need to give it a good Château la Croix Blanche I like this – no hard edges, tannins smooth but Côtes de Bordeaux hills. www.chateau-chatard.com AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 swirl, give it time to open, but good potential, AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 present, tastes almost like a Chilean Merlot, This is a good example of slightly rustic but n Château Roque le Mayne and should go another couple of years also. 15.5 (85) Recommended feels like it has been made to a recipe, and really enjoyable wine. Tannins are present, the AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Matthew Clark very successfully so. Blend is 80% Merlot, Château des Milles Anges fruit is firm and just ripe enough, no overblown n Château La Carelle Fresh, floral, pretty, from a blend of 85% 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 flavours, and a reasonable 12.5%abv. Simple but AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Château Petit Boyer Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, with 13.5%abv. 33% new oak barrels. 15.25 (84) Recommended good, from the Larrat family. n Château Labesse AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 This is ready to drink, not built to age in this www.milleanges.com AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 15.75 (86) Recommended particular vintage, but a very enjoyable wine. Fresher, higher acidity, nice mouth-watering n L’identité Château La Nauze www.petit-boyer.com Vinfied two thirds in stainless steel, one third L’Esprit de Bel Air la Royère finish, quite delicate, flavours cascade down Château Terre-Blanque, Cuvée Noémie AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 A touch of reduction on the nose but it clears to in oak barrels. AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 and they are gooseberry and cranberry. So AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 n Château La Fleur Fompeyre let the oak, fruit and alcohol waft upwards in 15.5 (85) Recommended could perhaps have pushed ripeness a little 15 (83) Recommended AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 the glass, giving both punch and personality. www.bel-air-la-royere.com further but gives it a real charm. If you like www.terreblanque.com n Château La Nauze This is a blend of old vines, with 10% Malbec, Château Marsau Touch of oak on the nose, cloves and coffee, understated wines, this is a good choice. Blend of 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 a little tight, holding back until you give it a Sauvignon from 40 year old vines looked n Clos des Lunelles 70% Merlot. A swirl of cinnamon spice, you 15.5 (85) Recommended good 15 minutes in the glass. Blend is 15% after by Odile and Thierry Bazin. The alcohol AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 could butter this over toast. Vinified by Jean- Approx £15. www.bordeauxindex.com; Malbec, which accounts for this dark black Château Tour Grand Mayne cuts through the fruit at a full 14.5%abv and n Château Fauchey Vincent Bideau, who back in 2006 won ‘Best www.farrvintners.com; www.hedonism.co.uk; spice, mixed with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 you can feel it, cuts through the fruit. If you AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 Young Talent’ award in Bordeaux. 13.5% abv. www.bbr.com; www.frw.co.uk; and 70% Merlot. 15.25 (84) Recommended can ignore that, there is good texture, and n Château Ogier de Gourgue www.lhkfinewines.com www.vignobles-robin-lafugie.com a sense of richness. AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 100% Merlot, 13.5%abv, plenty interesting Fresh, raspberry summer fruit on the nose. n L’Acanthe de Dudon fruit flavours going on here, with layers of La Parcelle 045 Nice persistency, lilting freshness, charming Also recommended: AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 redcurrant and light early summer cherries AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 wine. Vignobles Robin Lafugie, 13%abv n Château Les Vieux Moulins, n Château Laroche Bel Air adding interest. Good persistency. 15.5 (85) Recommended without sufficient fruit to balance means Cuvée Les Hélices AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 www.laparcelle045.fr the end is cut a little short. AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 n Château Dudon, The name refers to the number on the local n Closerie de Bailli Cuvée Jean-Baptiste Dudon Château les Tourelles commune’s map where this tiny parcel of half a AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 hectare of vines is located. Created in 2011 by Château des Tourtes, Cuvée Prestige n Château Barbé n Château Haut Grelot, Côteau de Méthez 15.5 (85) Recommended Emmanuel Tignol (technical manager of AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 AOC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 VineTrail Ltd, www.vinetrail.co.uk; Château Tour de Sarrail, although these are his 15.25 (84) Recommended www.vignoblesdarriet.fr own vines and not connected to the day job), www.vignoblesraguenot.fr Deep cherry red in colour. Although on the making this the first vintage. Certainly going for Blend of 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet first attack, the fruit flavours suggest that there a different approach with his grey-on-black Sauvignon, from Vignobles Raguenot. The was a struggle to reach full ripeness, this is still label, this is a blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet wine has spent 12 months in (30% new) oak a very pretty wine; we have crab apple, Sauvignon and Malbec (20% apiece), and the barrels, and offers a good structure. A little redcurrants, gooseberries – maybe not the three combine to give a savoury, spicy edge to rustic, but good acidity, tannin visible super ripe autumnal fruits, but attractive, the wine. 13%abv, oak is a little dominant at the without being drying, and overall an fresh and light. Overall the wine has definition moment, which makes the finish a touch enjoyable wine. Their Cuvée Classique also Union des Côtes de Bordeaux 1, cours du XXX Juillet, 33000 BORDEAUX and personality. abrupt, but good silky texture. From vines did well in this tasting. Tel. +33 (0)5.56.00.21.99 [email protected]