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All About Ciabatta GREATEST HITS May 18 - 19 All About Ciabatta By ZACH LANGENKAMP ALL ABOUT CIABATTA Guild Member and Director of Product Development, Blue Baker, College Station, TX Hosted by: The Culinary Institute of America San Antonio, TX When the class list for the year was The first day was spent making the Heather Gasaway – Facility Liaison announced by The Guild, I eagerly traditional formula of ciabatta in different Instructor: scanned through the locations, hoping ways. The first was the most traditional Didier Rosada for another class in Texas. When I saw formula that was made using a poolish H the “All About Ciabatta” class listed preferment and employed a short mix plus for San Antonio, I was doubly excited, three folds during the bulk fermentation as it was also being taught by Didier to build the strength of the dough. While Rosada! The two-day class was graciously this is the most traditional method to The Culinary Institute of America in hosted by the San Antonio branch of make ciabatta, many bakers find it difficult San Antonio, TX, has introduced an The Culinary Institute of America. It was to return to the dough every 45 minutes Associate in Applied Science (AAS) certainly a wonderful experience to have for another fold. In direct response to that degree in baking and pastry arts, full use of their baking classroom and situation, we made two successive doughs based on the curriculum offered at great equipment, and two instructors in which the gluten was almost fully the college's campuses in Hyde Park, generously donated their precious developed in the mixer, and they received NY and St. Helena, CA. weekend time to help with the class. no folds during the bulk fermentation. These doughs used two different Classes emphasize extensive Didier started the class by telling us that, preferments to illustrate the differences hands-on experience in baking and despite the name, the class wasn’t really in flavor and aroma between bread pastry techniques and production. about ciabatta; the class was all about made with a poolish and with a biga. We Additional studies cover topics learning various techniques (through finished off the day by mixing a ciabatta in design, equipment technology, making ciabatta) that can be applied to that received no folds and was retarded nutrition, and management. Near making any bread. Didier was careful to overnight in the cooler. the end of sophomore year, students stress many times throughout the two gain practical experience at the days that what defines true artisan bread The results after baking were quite school’s two restaurants, which are is the process that is used to make that phenomenal, and also a little surprising open to the public. bread, and what makes a baker an artisan in how alike the crumb structure was baker is understanding and respecting in all the breads. Didier successfully This expansion of the baking and that process. He used the various types demonstrated the two approaches to pastry program is under the direction of ciabatta we made during the class to building strength in a very wet dough. of Alain Dubernard, Department illustrate the fundamental bread baking The first was to add all the water at Chair for Baking and Pastry Arts. process and how it can be altered or the beginning and use a short mix in tweaked to fit different ingredients or conjunction with folds to build strength. timetables, while still respecting its The second used the double hydration integrity. MP FROM LEFT: Didier Rosada preparing a ciabatta dough for final cutting. The Ancient Grains Ciabatta PHOTOS: ZACH LANGENKA ZACH PHOTOS: bread lines – suMMER 201 3 { 11 } GREATEST HITS method of mixing: adding most of the MP water at the beginning of the mix (to get to a baguette consistency), developing the gluten, and then adding the remaining water after building strength in the dough. Both methods resulted in a beautiful, classic ciabatta shape with a moist, open crumb. LANGENKA ZACH PHOTOS We spent the second day of class making flavor variations of ciabatta that Didier created. All of these doughs were mixed using the double hydration method and soaker, toasted pecans, agave syrup, an improved mix for gluten development, oats, and currants for a final product that needing no folds during bulk fermentation was bursting with flavor in addition to for strength. The first was the Ancient providing many health benefits. Grains Ciabatta, made using a sponge with teff flour and a poolish with amaranth The final bread was arguably the most flour. While this bread didn’t have very highly anticipated by the class: Didier’s much of the teff and amaranth in the Breakfast Ciabatta. This formula combined total formula, the two ancient grain flours traditional ciabatta ingredients with were used entirely in the preferments, those normally found in a brioche, for a maximizing their flavor and creating a sweet, wonderful breakfast bread. We wonderful bread. added some egg, butter, and sugar to CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Functional Ciabatta. Didier striking a sweeten and enrich the dough, and after Next up were the three variations using pose about to answer a question. The developing the gluten, incorporated dark multiple grains and soakers for a heartier Ciabatta for Retarding. chocolate chunks and candied orange ciabatta. The Ciabatta Integrale used peel as well. It probably goes without 20% whole wheat flour, a cracked wheat saying that these all disappeared by the soaker, and a whole wheat sponge to continuously discovered little nuggets of end of the day. deliver nutrition and loads of flavor. knowledge and skill from Didier during the The Multigrain Ciabatta was similar, in A large part of my reason for taking this two days, usually when he was answering that it also used whole wheat flour but class was that Didier was teaching it, a one of the many insightful questions of employed a whole wheat poolish rather sentiment that was echoed by most of the other students. One of the survey than a sponge, and a soaker made of the other students on the first day. I am questions at the end asked us to rate how rolled oats, flax, sesame, and sunflower continuously amazed not only by Didier’s our expectations were met; at first I felt seeds for a great grainy flavor and texture. mastery of the bread baking craft, but this a bit unfair, as my own expectations Finally, the Functional Ciabatta combined also his ability to instruct others and pass were so high to begin with, but even so, a whole wheat poolish with a flax seed on some measure of that skill as well. I they were exceeded in this great class. H PHOTOS JENNIFER BAKER PHOTOS Kathleen Busche plays the gluten harp after Didier Rosada demonstrates the Improved/Double Hydration method of mixing ciabatta dough, which eliminates the necessity of folds and saves time and labor in the ciabatta process. { 12 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA.
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