Dining in Athens
DINING IN ATHENS
Athens is a haven of bustling eateries, ouzeries, ‘souvlaki’ (shishkebob) joints, even Michelin-rated international restaurants and other international cuisine. Our hotel is just two tram stops from Syntagma Square (where you’ll want to view the changing of the guard), Plaka (the heart of old Athens) and the Acropolis. Some informative websites are: • “Matt Barrett’s Top 10 Things to Do in Athens”: www.athensguide.com/top-10/index.htm • www.athensinfoguide.com • http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/city-guides/athens-greece/
Syntagma, Plaka and Monastiraki boast mainly Greek restaurants (simple eateries are known as “tavernas” as opposed to more formal restaurants), although right on Syntagma Square you’ll find the requisite McDonald’s, plus Everest sandwiches and Loxandras souvlaki (on Ermou St).
On Mitropoleos Street at Nos. 12-14, is O Tzitzikas kai O Mermigas (‘The Grasshopper and the Ant’), an excellent “mezedopoleio” which serves “mezedes”, like Middle Eastern ‘mezes’ and Spanish ‘tapas’. Call ahead for reservations: 210-324-7607.
Off of Stadiou St., near Syntagma, is a sophisticated, slightly upscale restaurant called Pasaji, serving ‘modern’ Greek food. From Syntagma Square, go one block on Stadiou St, turn right at Voukourestiou St, and on the left is City Link - the Stoa Spiromiliou (a covered walkway), where the restaurant is located. Tel: 210-322-0714.
PLAKA Kydathinaion St joins Adrianou St right through the heart of Plaka all the way to Monastiraki (from Syntagma Sq, go up Filellinon St three blocks; Kydathinaion St starts on the right). Both streets are lined with shops and restaurants. Kydathinaion St runs through a charming square (Filomousou Etairias Sq.), where Byzantino is located – a Greek restaurant with authentic and fairly-priced Greek food. Plenty of locals eat there as well as tourists. The square has other restaurants and cafes to choose from.
MONASTIRAKI Packed with tourists and locals alike, you can find all sorts of treasures in the shop-lined pedestrian-ways of Monastiraki, what used to be Athens’ flea market. Take a break from shopping at THE classic ‘souvlaki joint’, Thanassis, at the very end of Mitropoleos St, right before it ends at Monastiraki Square. Thanassis specializes in kebab (combination pork/beef mince-meat). Order it wrapped in pita bread, or served on pita bread on a plate.
Adrianou St, which originates in Plaka (see above section about the Plaka), passes directly in front of the Ancient Agora (marketplace) archaeological site in Monastiraki, and is lined with charming cafes and restaurants – all have a fabulous view of the Acropolis and Agora, with its reconstructed Stoa of Attalos (museum inside) and the Temple of Hephaistus (also known as the “Thisseio”).
KOLONAKI The upscale neighborhood of Kolonaki (‘little hill’), adjacent to Syntagma Square, is full of chic shops, bistros and cafes, boutique eateries and exclusive restaurants. The cafes on Kolonaki Square are the places to ‘see and be seen’ where Athens’ fashionable set hang out for coffee and people watching.
Two favorite restaurants in Kolonaki are: -- Oikeio (pronounced ‘ee-kee-o’, meaning ‘home’/’household’), a small, charming restaurant with reasonably priced gourmet Greek food. 15 Ploutarchou St. Reservations recommended, Tel: 210-725- 9215. -- Brasserie Valaoritou, a stylish yet casual café/restaurant offering tasty Greek and international cuisine. Open also for lunch. 15 Valaoritou St. Tel: 210-364-1530, www.brasserie.gr
For ouzo and “mezedes”, try To Ouzadiko, which claims to have over 650 ouzos! 25-29 Karneadou St – in a small shopping center, Tel: 210-729-5484. Psyrri has many ouzeries as well – see below.
Lykavittos Hill (also spelled, “Lykabettus”) in Kolonaki has a restaurant and café with great views of the city. At the top is St. George’s church. Also on the mount is the Lykavittos Amphitheater, which hosts summer concerts. Accessible via the “teleferik” (cable car), which starts in Kolonaki on Aristippou St and actually goes through the mountain.
“FIX” PEDESTRIANWAY A short taxi ride or a healthy walk from the Athenaeum InterContinental Hotel, the low-key pedestrianized Drakou Street is located near the shell of the old “Fix” brewery, which burned down decades ago. It has a “Goody’s” fast-food restaurant (but fairly good quality!) on the corner, plus restaurants, souvlaki eateries, wine bars, and cafes. Starting from Syngrou Avenue, Drakou Street begins exactly at the “Fix” tram stop (one stop after the “Kasomouli” tram stop, which is the tram stop nearest the InterContinental. Take the tram going towards “Syntagma”).
PSYRRI & GAZI Popular and fun, a ‘night on the town’ should include Psyrri or Gazi. Psyrri’s charming pedestrianways are full of cafes, ouzeries, restaurants, bars, clubs, theaters and galleries, just north of Monastiraki Square (end of Mitropoleos St). Many ouzeries and restaurants feature live music – it’s fun just to wander around, along with the after-theater or weekend crowds – this is definitely an Athenian stomping ground, trendy but not touristy.
Gazi is centered around Athens’ old gas works and has been transformed into a super-chic haven of modern art galleries and museums, high-end cafes, clubs and restaurants. It is THE “in” area — along with Psyrri — of Athenian nightlife. Located to the west of the Acropolis-Monastiraki-Plaka areas, and just northwest of Piraios St (also known as Tsaldari Panagei St), in a neighborhood also known as “Rouf”. The nearest metro station is “Kerameikos” on the blue line: Take the tram from the “Kasomouli” stop near the InterContinental going towards “Syntagma” — get off at Syntagma (end of tram line) — take the metro ‘blue’ line going towards “Egaleo” and get off at the “Kerameikos” station.
A couple favorite eateries in Gazi include O Skoufias, located at Vasileiou Megalou 50, Tel: 210-341- 2252, and Prosopa, Konstantinoupoleos 4 & Vasileiou Megalou 52, Tel: 210-341-3433.
MARINA FLIZVOU This is a charming coastal boardwalk along a marina full of sailboats and yachts, lined with cafes, tavernas, ouzeries, and shops, about a 40-minute tram ride from the InterContinental. Embark at the "Kasomoulis" stop, around the corner from the InterCon. Take the line towards "S.E.F.-Peace & Friendship Stadium". Disembark at the "Trocadero" stop.
Located right on the Marina Flizvou boardwalk is Mina’s Greece, an interesting, Greek gourmet ‘delicatessen’-style shop selling traditional Greek products (oil, olives, sweets, etc). Tel: 211-405-8781.
+++++++ The New York Times recommended the following restaurants in its article, “Choice Tables: How to Eat Well in Athens”, by Frank Bruni (January 16, 2011), http://tinyurl.com/3o7vc2c: • Margaro, Hatzikyriakou 126, Piraeus; (30-210) 4514226. Dinner for two, with wine, is about 45 euros. • Karavitis, Arktinou 35, Athens; (30-210) 7215155. Dinner for two, with wine, is 55 euros. • Doris, Praxitelous 30, Athens; (30-210) 3232671. Lunch for two, without wine, is 40 euros. • Vassilenas, Aitolikou 72, Piraeus; (30-210) 4612457; vassilenas.gr. Dinner for two, with wine, is 90 euros. • Vlassis, Maiandrou 15, Athens; (30-210) 7256335. Dinner for two, with wine, is 85 euros.
SHOPPING IN ATHENS
Athens has plenty of temptations for shoppers, from wonderful handicrafts and exquisite shoes and jewelry, to inexpensive ancient motif souvenirs. Men and women can find high quality items like shoes and clothing in many shops near downtown (Syntagma Square area) like Ermou, Mitropoleos and Aiolou Streets. For designer clothing, go to the area of Kolonaki (‘little hill’, area next to Syntagma) at Voukourestiou St, Solonos and Acadimias Streets as well. Prices are about the same as in other EU countries.
In the adjacent tourist areas of Plaka and Monastiraki, at the foot of the Acropolis, the visitor will find souvenirs and Greek art. Monastiraki used to be a real ‘flea market’, but now, along with the Plaka, it is a delightful maze of pedestrianized lanes with shops, cafes and restaurants; it also offers jewelry, antiques and old books (There’s a metro stop at Monastiraki, Line 1 – blue line). Prices are generally fixed, although it never hurts to ask for a ‘better price’! After shopping, enjoy a refreshment at one of the cafes or restaurants on Adrianou St while enjoying an amazing view of the Acropolis, the ancient Agora with the Stoa of Attalos and the Temple of Hephaistus (also known as the “Thisseio”).
A multitude of jewelry shops, most of them located in Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma Square and Kolonaki areas, have a wide selection of reproductions of ancient Greek jewels and traditional and modern designs in gold and silver. The two most famous jewelers are Lalaounis and Zolotas, both located on Stadiou St. near Syntagma Square. Worth a visit is the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelery Museum, which houses more than 3,000 designs of jewels (12 Kalisperi St, Tel: 210-922-1044, 923-7358).
The Attica shopping center is centrally located near Syntagma Square, with its main entrance on Panepistimiou St. (also known as Eleftheriou Venizelou St) Similar to a department store, its several floors house a variety of quality boutiques, selling mainly clothing, shoes, accessories and cosmetics. Hours: 10:00am-9:00pm Monday – Friday; 10:00am-7:00pm Saturday; closed Sunday.
Other Shopping Centers: - Fokas: Located on Ermou St, off of Syntagma Square. Shopping complex similar to “Attica”. - The Mall: On Kifissias Avenue in the northern Athens suburb of Maroussi. Also has restaurants and movie theaters. Modelled on the traditional North American “mall”. - Notos Galleries: On the corner of Aeolou and Stadiou Sts., one block from Omonia Square. (“Omonia” metro stop, Line 2 – red line)
Shop Hours -- Some large stores are open 10:00am – 9:00pm, and in Monastiraki & Plaka, 9:00-7:00pm, otherwise: Mon & Wed: 9:00am – 3:00pm Tue, Thurs, Fri: 9:00am – 2:30pm & 5:30pm – 8:30pm Sat: 9:00am – 3:00pm Sunday: closed
You will notice the small yellow kiosks (“periptera”) all over the streets of Athens and Greece generally. The equivalent of mini-supermarkets, they sell newspapers and magazines and nearly everything you may need in a pinch. Some even stay open 24 hours. International press is available at kiosks downtown, including the daily International Herald Tribune (attached to the English version of the Greek daily, Kathimerini), and Athens’ weekly English-language newspaper, The Athens News, published every Friday.