Tropical Birding Trip Report : The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Madagascar: The Eighth Continent

30 October – 23 November 2017 Western Endemics Extension: 30 October – 3 November Helmet Extension: 19-23 November

Tour Leader: Jay Packer

This Scaly Ground-Roller represents just one of Madasgascar’s six endemic families.

Note: All photos in this trip report were taken by Jay Packer. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 1

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Introduction

Madagascar has been called the 8th continent because of its extreme isolation. As the southern supercontinent Gondwana broke up, Madagascar cleaved from 135 million years ago. followed some 45 million years later, racing towards its future collision with . For 90 million years, Madagascar was been cutoff from the rest of the world, an island approximately the size of Texas, with nothing but time to evolve some of the most bizarre , , and plants found on Earth today. And so it was to Madagascar that Tropical Birding and six adventurous clients headed, in search of the endemic (approximately 110), endemic families (6), and even endemic orders (2) of birds. There are only 39 orders of birds in the world, and they include the major “types” of birds like , hawks, perching birds, etc. Incredibly, Madagascar has 2 of these 39 orders, the mesites and the -roller, all to itself. The trip was a resounding success. We tallied 170 species of birds, including all six endemic families – the mesites (we had all three), cuckoo-roller, ground- rollers (we had all five), Malagasy warblers, asites, and . Of course, no one goes to Madagascar for the birds alone. Across life’s spectrum, the island is filled with endemic groups of mammals, , amphibians, and so much more. We had 26 mammalian species (including 21 lemurs), 29 species of reptiles (including 11 ), 7 amphibians, and no doubt an equally impressive number of , plants, fungi, and most of which went unrecorded but were still appreciated none-the-less.

30 October 2017

Before flying out for the start of the western extension, we began the tour in the capital city of Antananarivo. In the morning, we made a quick trip to Lake Alarobia, a small lake on the northern edge of town. In addition to becoming acquainted with common birds that would soon become familiar friends, we were hoping to see two local species that can prove difficult to find: Meller’s and Madagascar Pond-. Both were cooperative. We enjoyed long looks at a pair of Meller’s Ducks shortly after arriving. The Madagascar Pond- made us work for them, hiding out amidst several hundred similar Squacco Herons. After a thorough scan with the scope, however, their electric blue bills and bright red legs gave them away. We enjoyed lengthy views of two different birds. Other highlights included two confiding Comb Ducks, abundant Black Herons, shy Madagascar Grebes, and several electric Malagasy that offered extended This Malagasy stole the show on the first morning, scope views at close range. Involuntary oohs posing for digi-scoped pictures with the phone. and aahs were heard from pretty much everyone, including the guide.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

We then made our way to the airport for our flight to the coastal city of Majunga where we spent the night.

31 October 2017

We arose early in the morning and made our way to the boat to explore a small slice of the extensive delta where the Betsiboka River drains into the ocean. Our targets this morning included two endangered birds: Bernier’s Teal and Madagascar Sacred . The ibis is currently recognized as an endemic of the widespread Sacred Ibis, but as with most creatures in Madagascar, one suspects that a single genetic study is the only thing standing between it and full species status. The Sacred Ibis in Madasgascar can be told from their African cousins by their yellow eyes (as opposed to black) and pure white flight , lacking black on the tips. We enjoyed numerous close views of several ibis foraging on the mudflats as the tide receded.

Madagascar Sacred Ibis, an endemic subspecies or species. Madagasy birds differ from their African cousins by their yellow eyes (not black) and pure white flight feathers (as opposed to black on the tips).

Bernier’s Teal was a little harder to find, making us slightly nervous as time wore on. In the end though, this just made our success in finding them that much sweeter. We located two birds feeding in brackish water along the mudflats. The species prefers nesting on freshwater marshes, which are under threat of human disturbance, mostly due to rice cultivation. Such a dichotomy in preference is highly unusual for a dabbling duck. Other highlights this morning included large numbers of Lesser Flamingos, shorebirds (including some Old World gems like Terek Sandpiper, Greater Sandplover, and Common Ringed Plover), and Saunders's . www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 3

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Satisfied with our excursion, we headed across the delta—more like a bay, really—to the small village of Katsepy. Here, we enjoyed Namaqua Dove, a nesting pair of Madagascar Hoopoes, and a stunning Madagascar Bee-eater – none of which were the reason we came. No, the purpose of our visit was Crowned Sifaka, an endangered lemur that lives in the forest around the village. After a well-earned break with some refreshing drinks, we located a small of confiding individuals resting in the shade as the day rapidly warmed up. We returned to Majunga for lunch and afterwards took the rest of the day off to escape the afternoon heat.

Two Crowned Sifakas seek refuge from the sun in the shaded trees around Katespy. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 4

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

1 November 2017

The morning saw a two-hour drive, as we made our way down to Ankarafantsika National Park. The distance isn’t far, but the road conditions in Madagascar make for slow going. On the drive, we spotted a Sooty Falcon gliding above the hills along the road, like some over-sized on steroids. We also enjoyed our first looks at a colony of Sakalava Weavers. We reached the park at 7:00 AM, piled out of the bus, lathered ourselves in sunscreen, and headed into the forest of Circuit Retendrika where we hoped to see one of the park’s most prized birds, Schlegel's Asity. The asities are one of Madagascar’s six endemic families. They are that feed on fruits and flowers and serve as one of the major distributors in Malagasy forests. The two sexes show marked differences in , with males developing electric wattles of neon skin around their eyes during the breeding season. Schlegel's Asity is one of the harder of the four asity species to see, preferring the canopy of moist and transitional forests in Northwest Madagascar. In the end we prevailed, locating two birds—a young male and a female. But it was hard work searching for them in the heat that settled over us like an unwelcomed blanket. Other highlights of the morning included a Frances's Goshawk, a nesting Madagascar Green-Pigeon, a small flock of unusually cooperative Madagascar , three species of (Crested, Red-capped, and Coquerel's), a roosting Torotoroka Scops-, brash Broad-billed Rollers, an assortment of vangas (Blue, Sickled-billed, and White-headed), Long-billed Berneria (a Malagasy warbler), both Madagascar Green and Souimanga , and many more.

This male Schlegel’s Asity was a satisfying to find in the forest canopy of Ankarafantsika National Park. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 5

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Long-billed Berneria, a member of the Malagasy warblers, one of six endemic Madagascar bird families.

Stripe-throated Jerry is not placed in the Malagasy Warbler family but is instead classified as a cisticola.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

This day-roosting Torotoroka Scops-Owl was an unexpected surprise on our morning walk.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Though the Madagascar Magpie-Robin may be common, that doesn’t make it any less charming.

The Madagascar Sparrowhawk is seen less frequently than its smaller counterpart.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Koch's Giant Day Gecko, one of the many phenomenal geckos in Madagascar.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

If there’s one truism about Ankarafantsika, it’s that it’s hot, with high temperatures pushing 38°C (100°F) during the summer months like November. So, worn out from the heat of the morning, we took lunch and rested up for the evening’s outing to Lake Ravelobe. Here, we chartered a boat for the hour before sunset, enjoying a flock of White-faced Whistling-Ducks, an assortment of herons (Great, Little, and , Black, Squacco, and Striated Herons), Kittlitz’s and Three-banded Plovers, and various other species now familiar to us. The real star of the show was a pair of endangered Madagascar Fish-Eagles. We spent some time watching as they called to each other from the trees along one of the lake’s channels.

An endangered Madagascar Fish-Eagle by in the evening at Lake Ravelobe.

Privileged to have shared a moment with the eagles, we left the lake and strolled up the main road where we enjoyed the antics of a family group of Coquerel’s Sifakas. With their maroon and white pelage, this has to be among the most dapper of Madagascar’s lemurs.

Back at the hotel for dinner, we were “serenaded” by the raucous calls of Broad-billed Rollers who saw no reason to stop just because the sun had set and the constant hoots of Torotoroka Scops-.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

2 November 2017

After an early morning start, we headed out on the Circuit Coquereli to explore the dry tropical forests and search for one of the park’s most coveted birds, the rare and elusive Van Dam’s Vanga. This endangered species is unfortunately threatened by habitat loss and Ankarafantsika is one of the only spots in Madagascar to find it. Along the way, we enjoyed some really special birds. A pair of white-breasted mesites was a crowd favorite. These bizarre ground dwelling birds are in their own , a high-level taxonomic group of three species found only in Madagascar and believed to be most closely related to sandgrouse, doves, and pigeons. The wonders in Madagascar never cease! We also enjoyed cracking looks at Red-capped (Madagscar’s colorful version of a terrestrial cuckoo), a surprisingly cooperative Madagascar Sparrowhawk (the larger and less frequently seen of the island’s Accipiters), Ashy Cuckooshrike, and a host of other vangas including Blue, Rufous, and Sickle-billed. The object of our desires proved elusive though. When we finally located a pair of Van Dam’s Vangas, we had a brief but tense moment where the birds flew from tree to tree at the top of the canopy, never staying long enough to give us looks. Finally, after three or four minutes of unbearable anticipation, we had a pair that sat still for a moment, giving everyone great looks!

A Red-capped Coua eyed us curiously as he crossed the path. Couas are an endemic subfamily of the .

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

This Warty defies gravity by using its tail to move between branches.

The endemic subspecies of Ashy Cuckooshrike is sometimes considered a full species.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

As one does in the intense afternoon heat, we took a mandatory break for rest and relaxation. Having seen almost every species we hoped to, we set out in the evening with the goal of finding a couple of remaining stragglers that hadn’t revealed themselves to us yet. Up first, we returned to Lake Ravelobe, approaching through the forested along the lake’s eastern edge. Here we found a Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfisher, an elusive jewel of the forest that likes to sit still for long periods and softly call. This particular individual had a female friend nearby, and we were captivated by his display, where he would flick his wings as he called to her.

This Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfisher flicks his wings in display for a nearby female.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Along the lake’s edge, we finally caught up with a Madagascar Jacana. Everyone got great looks as the bird, an immature, foraged on the shore.

This immature Madagascar Jacana has feet that are half the length of its body.

On the walk back to our rooms, we had our first look at a Cuckoo-Roller, a female that left us stunned as she soared and screamed above our heads. This bird is so bizarre that scientists now classify it as the other endemic avian order in Madagascar, only distantly related to , hornbills, , bee-eaters, and others. With a wailing call and eyes that seem to bulge out from the wrong place on the sides of their large heads, this species always seems to me the most improbable of Madagascar’s birds, like something that shouldn’t actually exist. We also enjoyed a small flock of Grey-headed Lovebirds along the main park road.

With the light fading fast, we hopped in the car and made our way to a nearby pond, walking through rice fields to reach it. Here a pair of African Pygmy-Geese graced us with their presence to close out the day. This species is widespread on the mainland in Africa but can be surprisingly tough to find on Madagascar. The pink water in the sunset made for a beautiful backdrop to the male’s boldly patterned face.

Having cleaned up at Ankarafantsika and seen all of our targets, we declared the Western Extension a success and returned for dinner and slumber.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The exquisitely patterned but diminutive African Pygmy-Goose is always a pleasure to see.

3 November 2017

Today was a travel day as we drove from Ankarafantsika to the capital, Antananarivo. That’s not to say one can’t fit in a few good birds along the way. We were particularly pleased to find Madagascar along the rocky waters of the Betsiboka River, where we also had our first solid looks at Madagascar Cisticola. As we made our way through Madagascar’s central highlands, we enjoyed good views of Madagascar .

Once in Tana (as the capital’s called by locals), we met our additional guests for the main leg of the tour. We relaxed at the hotel and prepared for our departure the following day.

4 November 2017

Before taking our flight to the southwestern city of Tulear, we returned to Lake Alarobia, the same lake we visited our first day in the capital. With new participants having just joined the group, we were keen to find some of the same targets we had a week ago. Indeed we had many of the same birds, with the highlights being a pair of Comb Ducks, a handful of Meller’s Ducks, and three Madagascar Pond-Herons amongst the hundreds of Red-billed Teal, and numerous and heron species. A White-throated also gave us our first looks of the trip. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 15

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Meller’s Duck, an endangered species endemic to the eastern half of the island, can be found near the capital.

After our short stop at the lake, we made our way to the airport for our afternoon flight to Tulear. A short drive later, we reached the coastal city of Ifaty and the beautiful grounds of our hotel, covered in bougainvilleas and set back from the ocean overlooking the Channel. We rested during the evening and dreamed of the spiny forest that awaited us the next morning.

5 November 2017

We had breakfast early and made our way to the spiny forest in a nearby private reserve. Here, the scenery is so bizarre that one can scarcely help but feel they’ve stepped onto the set of a Hollywood movie, into a magical forest inhabited by strange creatures. Well, it’s not Hollywood but it is magical, and it does have strange creatures. The spiny forest is a unique habitat characterized by plants that have adapted to lives with intense drought punctuated by brief intermissions of rain. Over 95% of the plants in this region are endemic, making it the most unique of all regions in Madagascar, perhaps even the world. This is the land of the famous baobab trees, ancient and swollen sentries that have stood for centuries. Octopus trees send out their twisting tentacled branches, covered in spines. A diverse variety of endemic euphorbs, like Silver Thicket, dominate the plant communities here. It truly is other-worldly.

It is in this amazing setting that we began to look for birds at first light. A Madagascar Cuckoo sat patiently for scope views as Madagascar Bee-eaters and Madagascar Hoopoes called in the background. Greater Vasa www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 16

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Parrots noisily called as flocks of Grey-headed Lovebirds streaked past overhead. Chabert’s Vangas flew in from time to time, while flocks of electric yellow Sakalava Weavers and Red Fodies added color to the scene.

A Greater Vasa , one of three endemic to the region, flies over the spiny forest.

Things got really exciting when we heard the call of the Long-tailed Ground-Roller. We had to work for a while to track one down, but in the end, great looks were had by all. This bird is bizarre by any measure. Elusive and shy, it has a boldly patterned throat and face, with beautiful turquoise blue in the wings and tail. The tail is long and it runs on the ground, flying only as a last resort. Like other ground-rollers, the species nests in the ground by digging a burrow in the sandy soils. In fact, given the shy nature of bird, local peoples in Madagascar used to believe that the species hibernated during winter by sleeping in their burrows. In fact, the birds are just hard to see, doubly so outside of the breeding season. The ground-rollers belong to one of Madagascar’s six endemic bird families and are most closely related to the bee-eaters, kingfishers, and true rollers.

Other highlights this morning included Thamnornis—an enigmatic and drab bird that scientists have now decided is a member of the Malagasy warblers, Subdessert Mesite, and Lafresnaye's Vanga, including one bird sitting on a nest. This species looks quite similar to Van Dam’s Vanga, but there is no overlap in range and the bill is light gray, not black.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

A Long-tailed Ground-Roller pauses in the early morning sun in the dry and sandy spiny forest.

As the morning heated up, we left the spiny forest and ventured down to the edge of a coastal forest and the salt pans of Ifaty to look for Madagascar Plover. At the we saw two distant Crab Plovers. We were disappointed at the salt pans though as we couldn’t find any Madagascar Plover. In the morning, we had to content ourselves with other Old World shorebirds. After lunch, however, we returned and successfully tracked down the plover. Everyone enjoyed long looks through the scope.

We returned to the spiny forest in the late afternoon for more birding and a night walk. We managed to see a few new birds, including Archbold's and Hook-billed Vanga. The newtonias used to be classified as Old World warblers but are now understood to be little vangas that flit about the trees in a warbler-like fashion.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Archbold's Newtonia is told from by the reddish-brown tones on the forehead and around the eye. It is found only in the dry forests of southern Madagascar.

The Hook-billed Vanga is a major predator of small reptiles like and geckos. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 19

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

As dusk fell, we saw our first lemur in the spiny forest, the Petter’s Sportive Lemur. We then came across the most remarkable scene, as a family of Gray Mouse Lemurs, having slept in a dead snag during the day, were now taking turns trying to build the courage to leave the safety of their hole. We watched in amazement as three and then four individuals stuck their heads out at once. When it was finally dark enough, we were shocked to count ten individuals who left the tree in a steady stream to head out into the night.

Three Gray Mouse Lemurs check if it’s dark enough to come out from the tree they’ve been sleeping in all day.

The fun wasn’t over yet though. In the dark of night, we came across a Madagascar Hissing , a giant of the spiny forest. (Any cockroach that’s three inches long surely deserves the title of giant, wouldn’t you agree?) These insects “hiss” by blowing air through breathing holes on the sides of their body.

A Lesser Hedgehog was also a big hit among the participants. Though this bizarre may superficially look like a hedgehog, it actually belongs to a diverse group of African insectivorous mammals and is more closely related to the golden moles and elephant shrews of the mainland.

The day a resounding success, we returned to the hotel for dinner and some much-needed sleep.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The famous Madagascar Hissing Cockroach is an impressive 3 inches long and calls the spiny forest home.

The Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec is actually not closely related to hedgehogs at all!

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

6 November 2017

We returned once more to the spiny forest in the morning for our final looks at this mysterious bird community. In addition to many of the same birds from yesterday, we were privileged to find a day roosting Madagascar Nightjar. We had previously heard the birds at night but had yet to lay eyes on one.

This Madagascar Nightjar on a day roost in the spiny forest gave everyone great looks.

Late in the afternoon, we visited a region outside Tulear known as La Tabla, literally the table. This ancient reef, now a limestone plateau, has a unique scrub habitat that holds some special birds. Here we found a Verreaux's Coua on a nest in dense vegetation, which we enjoyed through the scope from a safe distance. Another highlight of the afternoon was numerous Subdesert Brush-Warblers. These inquisitive birds seemed to pop up everywhere we went. Namaqua Doves, a , Chabert Vangas, Crested Drongos, and Madagascar rounded off the list.

As night fell, we returned to Tulear for dinner.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

7 November 2017

Today the group took a boat trip through the Mozambique Channel to the small island of Nosy Ve and the coastal town of Anakao. The morning started off well, with endemic and dark Humblot’s Herons seen nesting on a cliff face overlooking the ocean. Peregrine Falcons patrol the skies here, nesting on the cliffs too.

A Humblot Heron can be seen (above right) with a Gray Heron (center) nesting on cliffs near Tulear.

The very small island of Nosy Ve is a known spot of unique Crab Plovers and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, and we had fantastic looks at both. Crab Plovers are a one-of-a-kind shorebird, the only member of their family. They nest along the coast of the Indian Ocean mostly around the Arabian Peninsula and expand outward after the breeding season, reaching Madagascar for the winter. Red-tailed Tropicbirds are found in the Indian and Pacific oceans, so for many North American birders, it is the last of the three tropicbird species to see. These graceful fliers really stood out against the shallow tropical blue waters. The island also had good numbers of , most of which were Lesser Crested Terns but we managed to pick out a pair of Great Crested Terns too. The ubiquitous Madagascar Cisticola was the only present on the island. In addition to the birding, we relaxed for a while on the island. Several in our group even went for a swim!

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Wintering Crab Plovers can usually be found on the narrow spit of land at Nosy Ve

Nesting Red-tailed Tropicbirds also take refuge on the small island of Nosy Ve.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Fuzzy Red-tailed Tropicbird chicks wait patiently for their parents to return, protected from the sun’s heat by the low vegetation that covers the island.

Malagasy people still use boats not that different than their sea-fairing ancestors. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 25

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

We saw a large flock of Lesser Crested Terns, identified by their more slender yellow-orange bills.

A pair of Great Crested Terns were also present. They have thicker, greenish-yellow bills.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

After thoroughly enjoying ourselves on Nosy Ve, we traveled to the nearby coastal town of Anakao. Not only is this a great place for lunch, but it contains one bird that’s hard to find away from the coast – the charming Littoral Rockthrush. The word littoral refers to a shoreline and in ecology, the littoral zone denotes the area where the water meets the land. Unfortunately, the rockthrush isn’t quite aquatic (wouldn’t that be cool!), but it does cling to the coast in southern Madagascar, the only place in the world it’s found. Compared to other members of the group, the bird is subdued, with males a pale silvery blue on the upperparts and rusty orange on the breast. Females are more demure, gray with faint streaking on the breast. Originally classified as thrushes, as it turns out, the rockthrushes are actually Old World flycatchers. They weren’t hard to find either. When we arrived for lunch, we agreed to take a short break for bathrooms and cleaning off our sandy feet. That plan didn’t work when the first person to walk to the bathroom immediately had the Littoral Rockthrush. Everyone scrambled to come over and get a look at the confiding birds.

After a delicious lunch of fresh fish, we relaxed under the shade of the restaurant as we watched the hordes of Sakalva Weavers flying around the restaurant, going about their busy business of weaving nests.

In high spirits after a successful morning, we visited the Tulear Arboretum where we had another roosting Madagascar Nightjar and finally located a Madagascar Buttonquail for the participants that weren’t on the Western Extension. It was a good day.

Male Sakalava Weavers are electric, with their yellow heads and pink skin around the eye. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 27

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The male Littoral Rockthrush is quite dull compared to other rockthrushes. This individual claimed the restaurant and the forest around it for himself.

The female Littoral Rockthrush is entirely gray without any color.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

8 November 2017

Saying goodbye to the spiny forest, we headed east to Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. On the way, we were thrilled to find a large flock of Madagascar Sandgrouse coming down to drink from a river along the highway.

The dry deciduous forest of Zombitse marks a transitional zone between the wetter forests on the eastern part of the island and the spiny forests further west. Established in 1997, the park protects a number of unique birds and lemurs, chief among them Appert’s Tetraka and Verreaux's Sifaka.

Shortly after arriving, we located a day-roosting White-browed Owl. This species is endemic to Madagascar and unique in that it belongs to a group of Asian and Australian owls known as boobooks or hawk-owls and is the only member of the group found outside that region. Time will tell if it really belongs to this group or has simply been misclassified. Whatever its taxonomic affinities, it’s a cool bird, moderately sized with broad barring on the breast and its namesake white eyebrows.

This endemic White-browed Owl sleeps and keeps an eye on us at the time.

After enjoying our owl, we devoted our efforts to finding Appert’s Tetraka, a Malagasy warbler that wasn’t described to science until 1972. We came across a pair that were surprisingly confiding. Other highlights of the morning included great looks at a male Cuckoo-Roller, Lesser Vasa-Parrot, , and . www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 29

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Zombitse Sportive-Lemurs seem to always look a little lost and confused.

Appert’s Tetraka, described in 1972, is one of the reasons Zombitse National Park was established.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

A Giant Coua sounds off in Zombitse National Park. Note the odd pattern inside the mouth. For unknown reasons, coua chicks have outrageously bold patterns inside their mouths that fade as the birds age. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 31

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Concerning mammals, we found Zombitse Sportive-Lemur without much trouble. These chunky lemurs are on the smaller side of the spectrum and seem to have a penchant for sleeping in the fork of a tree or a hollowed out stump. Once you find them, you get good looks since they sit still. Verreaux's Sifaka on the other hand proved more difficult to find. So difficult that we’d almost given up. We ate lunch, expecting to leave shortly after, while some of the local guides at the park kept looking on our behalf. Good thing too. They found a family group and we got killer looks as individuals lounged and loafed in the heat of the early afternoon. Sifakas are big lemurs, and while they vary in size from species to species, the largest have bodies two feet long and weight over 10 pounds, making them the second largest type of lemur. When sifakas come down from the trees, they have a peculiar way of moving on the ground, hoping along on their back to legs as they wave their front legs around for balance. Verreaux's Sifaka is found in the south and southwest of the island where, like many sifakas, it is unfortunately endangered due to habitat loss. Zombitse remains one of the best places to find it.

A Verreaux's Sifaka smiles for the camera. Zombitse is one of the best places in Madagascar to see this species.

With all of our targets under our belt, we continued on to our hotel in Isalo, a rocky and scenic national park with vast grass covered fields. After a rest and a swim, we worked the grass for Madagascar Partridge. We located one male that gave us a couple of quick looks in flight as he whizzed past. A Banded Kestrel hovered briefly overhead, a very unexpected find. Everyone enjoyed great looks at Madagascar Munia coming into the marsh by a small pond. Madagascar Bee-eaters chirped merrily all around us. It was not a bad way to spend an evening. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 32

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

After dinner, we headed to a riparian strip of forest behind the hotel to look for owls. Our main target was the Torotoroka Scops-Owl for the participants that weren’t on the Western Extension and thus hadn’t seen one yet. We quickly heard them and after a short wait, located a bird close to us at eye level that gave excellent looks. All total, we had at least four individuals softly hooting up and down the strip of forest that follows a creek bed. As we enjoyed our small owl, we heard a White-browed Owl calling from the courtyard. Having seen this species so well earlier today on a day roost, and with the time getting late, we enjoyed his music but didn’t search for him and returned for some much-needed sleep.

9 November 2017

Today we endured an all-day drive from Isalo to Ranomafana National Park. The roads in Madagascar make travel difficult. It’s common to get stuck behind large trucks or buses and drivers must always be mindful of potholes that are more suitable for small bathtubs than kitchenware. Mora, mora is a Malagasy phrase one learns soon after arriving which translates to slowly, slowly. To break up the travel, we stopped at the small town of Anja which manages a forest that holds what is arguably Madagascar’s most famous resident, the iconic Ring-tailed Lemur. For many people, this black-and-white striped primate is the first thing that comes to mind when they think of the island. The lemurs here are quite accustomed to guests and pay people no mind.

Grateful for the break, we slogged on down the road to reach Ranomanfana just after dark.

A Ring-tailed Lemur sleeps off a hard night at the community forest in Anja. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 33

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

10 November 2017

The of Eastern Madagascar are the richest bioregion on the island, with an astounding 80 to 90% of the plant and communities endemic. We began our exploration of this exciting habitat at Ranomafana, a national park established in 1991 to conserve the unique species that call the place home.

We had an incredible first day, seeing many of the park’s hardest to find birds and getting fantastic looks at others. Early in the morning, we got phenomenal views of a male Velvet Asity. During the breeding season, the asities develop patches of electric neon skin around the eyes known as caruncles. We enjoyed one male that sat still for an extended period of time allowing close approach.

In the breeding season, male Velvet Asities develop electric patches of skin around the eyes known as caruncles.

Other highlights of the day included two species of ground-roller—-like and Rufous-headed, Common Asity, scope views of a nesting Crossley’s Vanga, Forest Fody, and Yellow-browed Oxylabes—a Malagasy Warbler that’s often very difficult to find. Madagascar Blue-Pigeon, Blue and Red-fronted Couas, Ward's Vanga, Madagascar Brush-Warbler, Cryptic Warbler, and Nelicourvi Weaver rounded out the list.

Turning to mammals, we had intimate views of several lemurs, including Milne-Edwards’ Sifaka, Red-bellied, and Golden Bamboo Lemurs. The latter is a bamboo specialist not described to science until 1986, serving as a catalyst for the establishment of the park. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 34

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

These Milne-Edwards’ Sifakas were content to hang out on the ground at Ranomafana.

Check out the finger pads on the hands of a Milne-Edwards’ Sifaka! That’s one way to not fall out of the trees. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 35

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The superb Pitta-like Ground-Roller is perhaps the easiest of the five species to lay eyes on.

This Rufous-headed Ground-Roller made us work hard for a look but it was all worth it in the end. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 36

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Female Red-bellied Lemurs have white bellies and lack the white spots below the eyes of males.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

11 November 2017

Day two of our Ranomafana experience began with high hopes of finding several remaining targets that can be quite difficult. Chief among these was Brown Mesite. The last of three mesite species to see on the trip, this species can be much tougher to find because it inhabits such dense forests. More than once we came across people on the trail who told us they had been looking the last two or three days to no avail. One guy looked downright dejected. Like them, we had looked but failed to find the birds yesterday. So it was with great excitement that we located a pair on the slopes of a high elevation ridge. The pair eventually came to the top of the ridge where we were standing, giving incredible views.

A Brown Mesite walks on the cloud forest floor in the upper reaches of Ranomafana National Park.

We had other good birds too. A rarely seen Henst's Goshawk perched briefly and gave some looks flying by, a pair of Madagascar Wood-Rails took their sweet time sauntering down the trail in front of us, two Malagasy warblers—Spectacled and Gray-crowned Tetrakas—were cooperative, and an assortment of vangas come out for the day—Tylas, Red-tailed, Blue, Ward’s, White-headed, and Pollen’s. The Pollen’s Vanga was especially nice to see, as Ranomafana is the best place in Madagascar to find them, and at times, they can be quite tricky to lay eyes on.

Worn out from two solid days of hiking in the hills, we returned to our hotel, tired but happy. A few went on a night walk, where we had four species of chameleons and a delightfully charming Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 38

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

In contrast to the female, the male Pollen’s Vanga is a monochrome bird.

Female Pollen’s Vangas are like males, but have a tawny breast.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

12 November 2017

The morning we were to leave Ranomafana, we made a quick stop at a nearby meadow and rice fields for several target birds. We missed Grey Emutail and Madagascar , though we would find both later on the tour. We were able to get looks at a Madagascar Snipe that flew by. While waiting on the edge of the rice paddy, we had our first Madagascar Harrier-Hawk in. The bird seemed to be actively hunting and perched several times, allowing everyone scope views. On our way out, we found a that left us speechless—Baron’s Mantella. The bright colors are aposematic—a fancy word in ecology that refers to the warning signal given by a poisonous species that essentially says to would-be predators, “don’t eat me.” Though not deadly like the toxins of S. American , the toxins in their skin are enough to make a predator sick and thus learn to avoid them.

After our morning excursion, we drove to Antsirabe for the night, stopping in Ambositra for lunch.

The exquisitely patterned Baron's Mantella. If birder’s didn’t like birds, they’d come to Madagascar for frogs.

13 November 2017

Today saw a long drive to Andasibe; the price that must be paid for all the great birds, I suppose. We did have some fun along the way. We visited a craft center and workshop in Antsirabe where local people show tourists how they make crafts from spare parts and raw materials. We saw women embroidering beautiful tapestries, a www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 40

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 guy that made toy rickshaws out of bicycle parts, and perhaps most fascinating, a demonstration of how zebu (cow) horn is cut, shaped, and polished to make everything from spoons to jewelry to dominoes.

We moseyed on down the road towards Andasibe, stopping only once for birds at the Maramunga River to scan the rocks belong for Madagascar Pratincole. Sadly, this species has become more difficult to find in many places in Madagascar. It didn’t look like we were going to have any luck here either, until we spotted a single bird far up the river through the scope. For those not on the western extension, it was their first of the trip.

We reached Andasibe by nightfall and after dinner, quickly turned in for bed, tired from the day’s travel.

14 November 2017

Much like Ranomafana, Andasibe-Mantadia is comprised of eastern habitat. While there is certainly overlap between the two, there are also species here that are either much easier to find or simply not present at Ranomafana. Before going on, a word about Andasibe-Mantadia. The park is actually two parks, Mantadia National Park and the Analamazaotra Special Reserve, located by the small village of Andasibe. To make matters even more confusing, the old French name for Andasibe is Perinet, and you will sometimes see the place referred to by that name as well. For the sake of convenience, I will refer to the general area simply as Andasibe, specifying more precise locations where appropriate.

We began our time at Andasibe in the Analamazaotra Reserve. The birding was a bit slow this morning, with mixed species flocks few and far between. We still managed some great birds, however. A Madagascar Cuckoo sat out in the open for an extended period of time, giving everyone lengthy scope (and binocular) views. This species is almost oppressive in its never ceasing song. You can go out on a night-walk and still hear Madagascar Cuckoo singing in the darkness. It’s less of a song, really, and more of a three to four-noted curse that gets seared into your eternal memory. But I digress. Despite being so vocal, they can be surprisingly difficult to see. So today’s views out in the open were nice.

Another highlight was a pair of Cuckoo-Rollers that came in close and stayed around for a while. We observed the male and female calling back and forth to each other, and the male left and came back with food at one point. It seems that love was in the air.

On our way back for lunch, we stopped along the main road to check some roosting spots of several owls. Up first, we found a pair of Malagasy Scops-Owls, sometimes called Rainforest Scops-Owls. Until recently, this species and Torotoroka Scops-Owl were considered one and the same and went by the name of Madagascar Scops-Owl. The two look virtually identical and may well be inseparable by appearance. They sound quite different however, with Torotoroka giving slower, low-pitched barking hoots and Malagasy giving higher- pitched, faster hoots. Still, there is some question if these are different species, as some reports indicate their voices intergrade and the limits of their ranges are currently poorly understood. After enjoying the scops-owls, we managed to spot a Madagascar Long-eared Owl on its roost, Madagascar’s largest owl.

The activity was a little better in the park when we returned in the afternoon. A Green Jery gave us confiding looks, and we saw a White-throated Oxylabes, a beautifully patterned Malagasy warbler if you like half a dozen shades of brown. We also finally laid eyes on Madagascar Flufftail (two females) near the entrance to the visitor’s center. look a lot like rails, but they have some odd features (males and females look different, as one example) and recent genetic data says their closet relatives are the sungrebes and finfoots, not rails. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 41

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The pine trees may not be native but the endemic Madagascar Long-eared Owl in them is.

The oft heard, seldom seen, Madagascar Cuckoo.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The bold pattern of the Lowland Streaked Tenrec makes this mouse-sized mammal thrilling to see.

As good as the birds were though, the mammals today were off the charts. Early in the morning we came across a Lowland Streaked Tenrec, a spiny critter that’s half black, half yellow, and half snout. This mouse-sized insectivore uses its nose to find and feed on its favorite food—. They will also feed on other when available. Unusual for , they are active both day and night and will sometimes form groups.

We also had a fantastic day for lemurs, seeing five different species. The crowd favorite was undoubtedly the Indri, Madagascar’s (and thus the world’s) largest living lemur. What makes Indris so incredible is that they sound like humpback whales and are so loud, they can be heard over a mile away. Can you imagine? Standing in a rainforest with green vegetation in every direction and hearing what can only be described as a screaming humpback whale in the forest? Well, that’s Madagascar for you.

We also enjoyed the beautiful Diademed Sifaka and Common Brown, Eastern Woolly, and Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemurs. The bamboo lemur is especially impressive because, like other bamboo lemurs, it has the necessary biochemistry for digesting a bamboo diet rich in cyanides that would kill other mammals.

We turned in the for the evening around 5 o’clock, but not before a stop in Andasibe that got us the giant Comet , an endemic insect with a wingspan pushing 8 inches (20cm)! www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 43

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The Indri is the largest living lemur in the world, weighing over 20 pounds (10kg).

With a song that sounds like a humpback whale, the Indri vocalizations are unforgettable.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Diademed Sifakas may be one of the most beautiful lemurs in Madagascar, with golden-orange legs.

The Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur eats bamboo shoots, a diet rich in cyanide that would kill other mammals.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Eastern Woolly lemurs have big eyes and small ears, giving them an owl-like appearance.

A true bug of unidentified affinities (Order ) caught our attention on the trails.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Comet are huge but rarely seen. They have wingspans of 20cm (8in). Adults moths do not feed and live only four or five days. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 47

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

15 November 2017

If yesterday was a little slow in the morning, today more than made up for it, giving us one of our best days of the tour. We bounced our way along the poorly maintained road into Mantadia with high hopes of finding the remaining two ground-rollers in Madagascar. We were not disappointed. A hike into the forest produced a pair of Short-legged Ground-Rollers. This species is the most arboreal of the group, spending more time in trees than on the ground. For those of us that had gone birding in the New World tropics, we were struck by how much this bird reminded us of a puffbird. (The two are not closely related and any similarities are the result of convergent .)

We carried on down the road to a small stream where our last remaining member of the family, the fantastically patterned Scaly Ground-Roller, was being seen with some frequency. We found one alright, coming into a nest. We took our time and patiently waited, taking care to remain at a safe distance. And just like that, within the span of an hour, the last two ground-rollers were in the bag. In ten days, we saw all five species.

Short-legged Ground-Roller is the most arboreal of the group, spending more time in trees than the ground.

We stopped by a small pond in the park late in the morning where we enjoyed great scope views of Madagascar Grebe, Broad-billed Rollers, Madagascar Swamp Warblers, and a charming Madagascar Wagtail walking on lily pads. We returned for lunch, euphoric with our good fortune this morning. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 48

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The exquisite Scaly Ground-Roller is a secretive bird of the eastern rainforests that’s always a crowd pleaser.

Like others in it’s family, the Scaly Grond-Roller nest is a burrow dug into the soil. The opening is covered with leaves for camouflage.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

A Giant African Snail slithers his way along a log. These snails reach lengths of 8in (20cm)!

This Eastern Madagascar Tree Boa came down from the trees and gave us all a great look.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The Madagascar Blue Pigeon belongs to a group found only in Madagascar and two neighboring islands.

Madagascar Grebe is a striking member of the family found across the island in ponds and wetlands.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

After lunch, we returned to the nearby Analamazaotra Reserve, where we were yesterday. We were greeted by a Pitta-like Ground-Roller running up the trail, intent on reminding us that he was still beautiful too. The real star of the show, a bird that we’d been looking for since Ranomafana, was Collared Nightjar. Madagascar has two nightjar species, both endemic. The Madagascar Nightjar is widespread and can be found in virtually any habitat across the island. The Collared Nightjar on the other hand is confined to eastern rainforests and poorly known from only a few locations. Also, as best I can tell at the time of writing, its song remains undescribed to science, with no published recordings online or elsewhere. After days of searching, we finally came across an individual roosting on the ground. It’s not hard to see why the birds are so hard to see. Their camouflage is superb! We left the bird in peace and continued down the trail, where we were able to appreciate a , a pair of Malagasy Spinetails (a type of small swift), and both Souimanga and Madagascar Green Sunbirds.

Do you see a bird? If you can’t find it, the next page has some close-ups…

After wrapping up at the reserve, we went down by the small river that runs through the village of Andasibe. This is a good vantage point for spotting Madagascar Starling as they perched on the tall trees nearby, but we dipped on them yesterday when we looked. Our fortunes improved this afternoon when we had four birds stop by, both males and females. One individual even came down low in a small tree on the side of the road, giving us glorious views in golden afternoon light.

Grateful for our successful day, we returned to the hotel for dinner and sleep. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 52

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Collared Nightjar is a master of camouflage. This same bird can be seen on the right side of the picture above.

Collared Nightjar is seen less frequently than Madagascar’s other endemic nightjar, the Madagascar Nightjar.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

16 November 2017

On our last morning here, we visited a small community reserve on the edge of Andasibe. It was a great morning for couas, with cracking views of Blue, Red-fronted, and Red-breasted Couas. The latter was especially satisfying as we’d been hearing them the last several days without an opportunity to track one down. Alas, we couldn’t stay long as a road trip to our next stop awaited us. After a modest drive over continuously worsening roads—they were paved when we started!—we reached Saha Forest Camp, a lodge of idyllic bungalows set tastefully on the edge of the Saha Forest. We noted a leisurely flying over the rice paddies and took rest in the evening and made plans for the morning’s hike.

17 November 2017

With the main leg of the tour nearing its end, we focused on finding a few birds that we had previously missed. One such bird was the Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfisher. For those participants not on the western extension, we just hadn’t managed to get views of this handsome beast despite looking at both Ranomafana and Andasibe. We solved that problem this morning with one of the most cooperative kingfishers we’d ever seen.

Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfishers can be hard to find when they sit still, but once found, can be quite confiding.

Up next, we focused on tracking down two master skulkers that had eluded us, the Brown and Gray Emutail. These endemic warblers are in the same family as the grassbirds of Africa and Asia. They get their name from www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 54

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 tail feathers that are so wispy and sparse that they look like Emu feathers. Brown Emutail is a bird of montane forests that runs around on the ground like a mouse in thickets of damp vegetation. It can be incredibly hard to see. We must have tried getting looks at three or four birds before finally getting a couple of glimpses at an individual darting between openings. Using only our eyes was the best strategy since the bird was so close.

Up next we went in search of Gray Emutail, which required a pilgrimage to a nearby wetland. Once again, we found ourselves questioning our sanity for driving on roads that were no longer maintained and were quickly being reclaimed by vegetation. Once at the wetland, we heard the object of our desires, but they weren’t close and had no plans to come closer. So we made the decision to take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and wade in to the muddy waters to track one down. It took a little while, but we got perfect views and were rewarded with a Madagascar Snipe and multiple African Stonechats for our efforts.

If runners get a runner’s high, can birder’s call this a wetland high? Sometimes you have to get wet feet to find Gray Emutail.

We closed out the day with a short night walk that produced a few chameleons, a sportive lemur, and a bizarre ‘hammerhead’ flatworm, the major predator of earthworms. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 55

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

A short night walk at Saha Forest Camp produced this Perinet’s Chameleon.

Another unexpected find was this Weasel Sportive Lemur.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

An unknown species of ‘hammerhead’ flatworm (Phylum Platyhelminthes), possibly Bipalium kewense. This worm was approximately 8-10in (20-25 cm) long. Flatworms such as this are predators of earthworms. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 57

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

18 November 2017

Having seen everything we could hope for at Saha, we did the unthinkable. We slept in this morning. For our leisure on the last morning, we were rewarded with a relaxing and delicious breakfast and scope views of a male Cuckoo-Roller who came to say his goodbyes to the group. We packed our bags and headed down the bumpy road to Tana. At dinner we enjoyed good food as we reflected on the trip and reminisced on trips past.

19 November 2017

As a group, we had planned to say our final goodbyes in the morning at breakfast. Unfortunately, despite checking and double checking (and then checking again once more), the three of us continuing on to the extension were told wrong departure times for our charter flight to the Masoala Peninsula. Thus the day began with an unexpected wake-up call and a mad dash to the airfield. All’s well that ends well, however, and we were soon aboard our small plane heading to the northeastern part of the island.

The Masoala Peninsula is home to magnificent lowland rainforests, clear waters, and pristine beaches. It has a few special birds and mammals too. It’s the best place in Madagascar to find Helmet Vanga, a bird with no equal on an island of unique birds.

After collecting our bags at the Maroantsetra Airport, we headed down to the docks where we met our local guide whose intimate knowledge of the area we would rely on to help find our target birds. We boarded a small boat to the island of Nosy Mangabe, a great place to find a variety of chameleons. The little island lacks couas, one of the major predators of geckos and chameleons, and thus these reptiles can be found more readily and at higher densities than spots on the mainland peninsula. We reveled in the incredible camouflage of the Common Leaf-tailed Gecko and relished the Brown Leaf Chameleon, one of the world’s smallest at just 1.3in (3.5cm) long. We also enjoyed seeing Malagasy Kingfisher and Madagascar along the beach. Sometimes birds take on new beauty when seen in new settings.

The island of Nosy Mangabe lacks predators like couas and is an excellent place for geckos and chameleons.

Having thoroughly enjoyed our time at Nosy Mangabe, we continued on the boat across the bay to the Masoala Forest Lodge. A large colony of Madagascar Flying Foxes (big fruit bats) was a nice addition on the way. Upon www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 58

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 arriving, we got checked into our rooms—raised bungalows set back from the beach but in earshot of the crashing waves.

Outside one of the rooms, we witnessed an amazing yet tragic scene, as a Hook-billed Vanga was trying to kill a young Panther Chameleon. The chameleon was in bad shape, with multiple puncture wounds. And while we had inadvertently scared the vanga off its prey, he hung around close, not willing to just walk away from a meal he had worked so hard to secure. Beauty and tragedy, such is the circle of life.

Hook-billed Vanga, slayer of chameleons.

Not wanting to waste any time, we got right to work searching for birds, taking a walk on the trails behind the lodge. As sometimes happens in the late afternoon, it was fairly slow. We didn’t have anything too noteworthy, though a male Rufous Vanga gave us great looks. Chabert Vangas, Ashy Cuckooshrikes, Crested Drongos, and Souimanga Sunbirds made appearances. We also heard a pair of Brown Mesites calling in the distance. Thankful that we had already seen that bird so well earlier in the tour, we headed back to the lodge.

Before dinner, we took advantage of the last hour of light to go for a swim in the Indian Ocean. To say that it was a beautiful evening seems wholly inadequate. The sunset was stunning, the sky a canvas of pastels, reflected in the water below. The water was warm and the waves gentle. It was a beautiful end to the day.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The sunset on our first night on the Masoala Peninsula was simply stunning.

After a shower, we came down to the lodge dining area for dinner. Meals are served communally in an open air covered building, and we were soon making friends with other guests at the lodge, people from Germany, , and . We retired for bed, excited about the possibilities we hoped tomorrow would bring.

20 November 2017

We began early in the morning with breakfast just before first light. We were greeted by a swarm of ten or so Madagascar Pratincoles flying in all directions above the lodge hunting insects in the pre-dawn haze. Seeing these large shorebirds in flight gives one the impression of giant long-winged swallows. Definitely a really cool bird if you’re not used to their profile in flight.

After breakfast, we hiked out to an area of Pandanus forest. Pandanus is a of tree with giant palm-like fronds that grows in areas with wet soils, even swamp conditions. We stood for a long time in the morning at a clearing on the edge of the swamp, hoping for Bernier’s Vanga. This Pandanus specialist is rarely seen away from the Masoala Peninsula, and even here, it’s very local and hard to find. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 60

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Unfortunately, we had no luck at our first stop. Other birds cooperated though. We enjoyed Blue and White- headed Vangas and a beautiful pair of Nelicourvi Weavers. Eventually we moved on and headed into the swampy forest, navigating our way around the many shallow streams on the forest floor. As we crept along with our eyes glued upward, the hair on the backs of our neck stood straight when we heard the unmistakable descending trill of a Helmet Vanga, like a bomb whistling on the way down. It was close too! Our hearts raced as we search the canopy. And searched… And finally lost hope. The bird seemed to have moved on unseen. When it started to lightly rain, we feared we might have lost our opportunity.

Our luck changed when we found a big mixed flock containing all of our dreams. We knew a flock was present when we came across several Crested Drongos, a , and a pair of White-headed Vangas. They were all working the vegetation after the rain stopped, and it just felt like more birds were here than we were seeing. Suddenly a medium-sized bird flew down from somewhere above us. We didn’t see where it landed, but as we carefully scanned, we spotted a Helmet Vanga sitting quietly in front of us. Quiet gasps were heard. Our luck with the flock wasn’t done either. We found an additional two Helmet Vangas and then three recently fledged juveniles, followed by great looks at a male and female Bernier’s Vanga! One couldn’t write a better script.

The giant blue bill of a Helmet Vanga was a welcome sight after an intense morning search.

We wrapped up the morning with a Madagascar and a White-throated Oxylabes on the way back, and with the pressure off, took the rest of the day to swim and relax. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 61

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

We also saw three recently fledged Helmet Vangas. One bird was so young that it could barely fly.

This Blue Coua was no stranger to the grounds of the lodge.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

The male Bernier’s Vanga looks a lot like a blackbird or oriole.

The female Bernier’s Vanga is arguably prettier, with fine black barring over her entire brown body.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

21 November 2017

Having seen the two vanga stars-of-the-show, we were free to do as we pleased. So on this morning, we took a short boat trip to the primary rainforest within the official boundary of Masoala National Park. On the way over, we enjoyed side by side comparisons of Great and Lesser Crested Terns sitting next to one another on the rocks.

We had some fantastic birds this morning, though birds we had seen before on the trip. Chief among these was another Scaly Ground-Roller that we found by the side of the trail. We didn’t think it possible, but this bird gave even better looks than the individual we saw earlier at Andasibe. We also enjoyed another pair of Bernier’s Vangas and a day-roosting White-browed Owl.

One can’t see Scaly Ground-Roller any better than this.

The high point of the morning, however, was probably the supreme views we had of vocalizing Red-ruffed Lemurs. If Indri vocalizations give you a sense of awe, the deep, monstrous roars of ruffed lemurs leave one both amused and slightly terrified. This species is found only on the Masoala Peninsula, where it inhabits the massive trees of the primary rainforest. A highly social species, they call to each other in the mornings and spend considerable time grooming each other. Despite all their bark and fury, they can be difficult to spot as the vegetation is so thick that it often conceals them. We were fortunate to have such good looks.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Two Red Ruffed Lemurs scream to one another to start the day.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Parson’s Chameleon are masterful ambush predators, waiting for prey to walk within striking distance.

Another highlight of the morning hike was a Parson’s Chameleon. Perhaps the largest chameleon in the world (there’s one speices that gets longer, but Parson’s is heavier), we saw a youngster that was a mere foot in length (30cm). Fully grown, this species exceeds lengths of two feet (60cm), about the size of a house cat. Chameleons use their camouflage to sit back and strike prey with a long, sticky tongue that shoots out at incredible speeds. The individual we saw had positioned himself some 18 inches (45cm) back from the truck of a tree, waiting for prey to appear. They’ll take anything they can eat too, and while insects make up the bulk of their diet, small birds like Souimanga Sunbird and Madagascar White-eyes are definitely on the menu in they get close enough.

In the afternoon, we enjoyed the bird communities of the Masoala Peninsula in a unique fashion, canoeing up a river as far as we could go, then hiking back to the lodge through the forest via the trail system. On the river, we had incredible views of a Madagscar Pratincole sitting on her “nest.” Pratincoles don’t build nests, but rather lay their instead on the ground or in a rocky depression.

On the river, looking for specific birds seems to fade into the background as it’s less about what you find and more about what finds you. We enjoyed great looks at Madagascar Paradise-Flycatchers which were plentiful, a Black-crowned Night-Heron, and a Malagasy Kingfisher that darted down the river every time we drifted closer.

At dinner, we enjoyed one last evening of comradery with our new found friends at the lodge. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 66

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

A Madagascar Pratincole sits on her nest, a depression in the rocks where she lays her eggs.

Madagascar Paradise-Flycatchers were common and easily seen on the rivers of the Masoala Peninsula.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

After a final breakfast in paradise, we loaded up for the boat trip back to Maroantsetra and then our chartered flight back to the Madagascar capital of Tana. It was an incredible month in Madagascar!

– Jay Packer

The view from the air of Madagascar’s capital, Antananarivo, a city of red soil and rice paddies.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Bird and Other Species Lists:

The following bird list records all species seen or heard on the trip. Not all species were seen by all participants.

The of the bird list follows the eBird checklist as of December 2017.

KEY: Species marked with (E) are endemic to Madagascar, (Essp) are endemic subspecies, (BE) are breeding endemics, and those marked with (RE) are regional endemics found on Madagascar and one or more nearby islands. Non-breeding migrants are marked (NBM) and are listed as (I).

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata Comb (Knob-billed) Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos African Pygmy-goose Nettapus auritus Meller's Duck (E) Anas melleri Red-billed Duck (Teal) Anas erythrorhyncha Bernier's Teal (E) Anas bernieri (Pheasants, , and Allies) Madagascar Partridge (E) Margaroperdix madagascarensis Podicipedidae (Grebes) Madagascar (Little) Grebe (E) Tachybaptus pelzelnii Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos) Lesser Flamingo (NBM) Phoenicopterus minor Phaethontidae (Tropicbirds) Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon rubricauda Scopidae (Hamerkop) Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) Gray Heron (Essp) cinerea firasa Humblot's Heron (E ) Ardea humbloti Purple Heron (Essp) Ardea purpurea madagascariensis Great (White) Egret Ardea alba Little (Dimorphic) Egret (RE) garzetta dimorpha Black Heron (Egret) Egretta ardesiaca Cattle Egret ibis (Common) Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Madagascar (Squacco) Pond-Heron (BE) Ardeola idae Striated (Green-backed) Heron (Essp) Butorides striata rutenbergi www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 69

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Threskiornithidae ( and Spoonbills) Madagascar (Crested) Ibis (E) Lophotibis cristata (Malagasy) Sacred Ibis (Essp) Threskiornis aethiopicus bernieri Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) Madagascar Harrier-Hawk (E) Polyboroides radiatus Frances's Goshawk (Sparrowhawk) (RE) Accipiter francesii francesii Madagascar Sparrowhawk (E) Accipiter madagascariensis Henst's Goshawk (E) Accipiter henstii Black (Yellow-billed) Kite (NBM) Milvus migrans (parasitus) Madagascar Fish-Eagle (E) Haliaeetus vociferoides Madagascar Buzzard (E) Buteo brachypterus Mesitornithidae (Mesites) White-breasted Mesite (E) Mesitornis variegata Brown Mesite (E) Mesitornis unicolor Subdesert Mesite (E) Monias benschi Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) White-throated Rail (RE) Dryolimnas c. cuvieri Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus pyrrhorrhoa Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata (Flufftails) Madagascar Wood-Rail (E) Canirallus kioloides Madagascar Flufftail (E) Sarothrura insularis Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets) Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) Black-bellied (Grey) Plover (NBM) Pluvialis squatarola Greater Sandplover (NBM) Charadrius leschenaultii Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Common Ringed Plover (NBM) Charadrius hiaticula Madagascar Plover (E) Charadrius thoracicus Three-banded Plover (Essp) Charadrius tricollaris bifrontatus White-fronted Plover (Essp) Charadrius marginatus tenellus (Jacanas) Madagascar Jacana (E) albinucha

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) Whimbrel (NBM) Numenius phaeopus Ruddy Turnstone (NBM) Arenaria interpres Curlew Sandpiper (NBM) Calidris ferruginea Sanderling (NBM) Calidris alba Madagascan Snipe (E) Gallinago macrodactyla Terek Sandpiper (NBM) Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper (NBM) Actitis hypoleucos Common Greenshank (NBM) Tringa stagnatilis Turnicidae (Buttonquail) Madagascar Buttonquail (E) Turnix nigricollis Dromadidae (Crab Plover) Crab Plover (NBM) Dromas ardeola (Pratincoles and Coursers) Madagascar Pratincole (BE) ocularis Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) Saunders's Tern (NBM) Sternula saundersi Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Great Crested (Swift) Tern Thalasseus bergii Lesser Crested Tern (NBM) Thalasseus bengalensis Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse) Madagascar Sandgrouse (E) Pterocles personatus (Pigeons and Doves) Rock Pigeon (Dove) (I) Columba livia Madagascar Turtle-Dove (RE) Streptopelia p. picturata Namaqua Dove (Essp) Oena capensis aliena Madagascar Green-Pigeon (RE) Treron australis xenius/australis Madagascar Blue-Pigeon (E ) Alectroenas madagascariensis Cuculidae (Cuckoos) (E) Coua cristata Verreaux's Coua (E) Coua verreauxi Blue Coua (E) Coua caerulea Red-capped Coua (E) Coua ruficeps ruficeps [Green-capped Coua] (E) [Coua ruficeps olivaceiceps] Red-fronted Coua (E) Coua reynaudii Coquerel's Coua (E) Coua coquereli Running Coua (E) Coua cursor www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 71

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Giant Coua (E) Coua gigas Red-breasted Coua (E) Coua serriana Madagascar (RE) Centropus toulou toulou Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo (BE) Cuculus rochii Strigidae (Owls) Malagasy (Rainforest) Scops-Owl (E ) Otus rutilus Torotoroka Scops-Owl (E) Otus madagascariensis Madagascar Long-eared Owl (E) Asio madagascariensis White-browed Owl (E) Ninox superciliaris Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and allies) Collared Nightjar (E) Gactornis enarratus Madagascar Nightjar (RE) Caprimulgus m. madagascariensis Apodidae (Swifts) Malagasy Spinetail (Mad. Sp-Swift) (RE) Zoonavena grandidieri grandidieri Madagascar (Black) Swift (RE) Apus balstoni balstoni African Palm-Swift (Essp) Cypsiurus parvus gracilis Leptosomidae (Cuckoo-Roller) (Madagascar) Cuckoo-Roller (RE) Leptosomus discolor Upupidae (Hoopoes) Madagascar Hoopoe (E) Upupa marginata Alcedinidae (Kingfishers) Malagasy (Madagascar) Kingfisher (Essp) v. vintsioides Madagascar Pygmy-Kingfisher (E) Corythornis madagascariensis Meropidae (Bee-eaters) Madagascar Bee-eater Merops superciliosus (Rollers) Broad-billed Roller (BEssp) Eurystomus g. glaucurus Brachypteraciidae (Ground-Rollers) Short-legged Ground-Roller (E) leptosomus Scaly Ground-Roller (E) Brachypteracias squamiger Pitta-like Ground-Roller (E) pittoides Rufous-headed Ground-Roller (E) Atelornis crossleyi Long-tailed Ground-Roller (E) Uratelornis chimaera Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras) Madagascar Kestrel (RE) Falco newtoni Banded Kestrel (E) Falco zoniventris Sooty Falcon (NBM) Falco concolor www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 72

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Peregrine Falcon (Essp) Falco peregrinus radama (Old World Parrots) Greater Vasa-Parrot (RE) Coracopsis vasa v./drouhardi Lesser Vasa-Parrot (RE) Coracopsis nigra n./libs Grey-headed Lovebird (E) Agapornis canus Philepittidae (Asities) Velvet Asity (E) Philepitta castanea Schlegel's Asity (E) Philepitta schlegeli (Common) Sunbird-Asity (E) Neodrepanis coruscans Vangidae (Vangas & Helmetshrikes) Archbold's Newtonia (E) Newtonia archboldi Common Newtonia (E) Newtonia brunneicauda Dark Newtonia (E) Newtonia amphichroa (E) Tylas eduardi Red-tailed Vanga (E) madagascariensis (E) Leptopterus chabert Crossley's Vanga (Babbler) (E) Mystacornis crossleyi (Madagascar) Blue Vanga (RE) Cyanolanius m. madagascarinus Hook-billed Vanga (E) Vanga curvirostris Ward's Flycatcher (Vanga) (E) Pseudobias wardi Rufous Vanga (E) Schetba rufa Helmet Vanga (E) Euryceros prevostii Bernier's Vanga (E) Oriola bernieri Sickle-billed Vanga (E) Falculea palliata White-headed Vanga (E) Artamella (Leptopterus) viridis Pollen's Vanga (E) polleni Lafresnaye's Vanga (E) Xenopirostris xenopirostris Van Dam's Vanga (E) Xenopirostris damii Campephagidae (Cuckoo-) Ashy (Madagascar) Cuckoo- (RE) Coracina cinerea cinerea Dicruridae (Drongos) Crested Drongo (RE) Dicrurus forficatus forficatus Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers) Madagascar Paradise-Flycatcher (RE) Terpsiphone mutata mutata (Crows, Jays, and Magpies) Pied Crow Corvus albus

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Alaudidae (Larks) Madagascar Lark (E) Mirafra hova Hirundinidae (Swallows) Plain (Brown-throated) Martin (Essp) Riparia paludicola cowani Mascarene Martin (RE) Phedina borbonica Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls) Madagascar Bulbul (RE) Hypsipetes m. madagascariensis (Reed-Warblers and Allies) Madagascar Brush-Warbler (RE) t. typica Subdesert Brush-Warbler (E ) Nesillas lantzi Madagascar Swamp-Warbler (E ) Acrocephalus newtoni (Grassbirds and Allies) Brown Emu-tail (E) brunneus Gray Emu-tail (E) Amphilais seebohmi (Malagasy Warblers) White-throated Oxylabes (E) Oxylabes madagascariensis Long-billed Bernieria (Greenbul) (E) Bernieria madagascariensis Cryptic Warbler (E) Cryptosylvicola randrianasoloi Thamnornis (Warbler) (E) Thamnornis chloropetoides Yellow-browed Oxylabes (E) Crossleyia xanthophrys Spectacled Tetraka (Greenbul) (E) Xanthornixis zosterops Appert's Tetraka (Greenbul) (E) Xanthornixis apperti Grey-crowned Tetraka (E) Xanthornixis cinereiceps Rand's Warbler (E) Randia pseudozosterops (Cisticolas and Allies) Common Jery (E) tenella Green Jery (E) Neomixis viridis Stripe-throated Jery (E) Neomixis striatigula Madagascar Cisticola (RE) Cisticola cherina Zosteropidae (White-eyes) Madagascar White-eye (RE) Zosterops maderaspatanus Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers) Madagascar Magpie-Robin (E) Copsychus albospecularis Forest Rock-Thrush (E ) Monticola s. sharpei Littoral Rock-Thrush (E ) Monticola imerina African Stonechat (Essp) Saxicola torquatus sibilla

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Sturnidae (Starlings) (I) Acridotheres tristis Madagascar Starling (E) Saroglossa aurata Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters) Souimanga Sunbird (RE) souimanga s./apolis Madagascar (Green) Sunbird (RE) Cinnyris notatus notatus Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits) Madagascar Wagtail (E) Motacilla flaviventris Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) House Sparrow (I) Passer domesticus (Weavers and Allies) Nelicourvi Weaver (E) Ploceus nelicourvi Sakalava Weaver (E) Ploceus sakalava Red (Magagascar) Fody (RE) Foudia madagascariensis Forest Fody (E) Foudia omissa Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies) Madagascar Munia (Mannikin) (E) Lonchura nana

Mammals

Cheirogaleidae (Mouse & Dwarf Lemurs) Gray Mouse Lemur (E) Microcebus murinus Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur (E) Cheirogaleus medius Lepilemuridae (Sportive Lemurs) Weasel Sportive Lemur (E) Lepilemur mustelinus Zombitse Sportive Lemur (E) Lepilemur hubbardi Petter's Sportive Lemur (E) Lepilemur petteri Lemuridae (True Lemurs) Eastern Lesser (Gray) Bamboo Lemur (E) Hapalemur griseus Golden Bamboo Lemur (E) Hapalemur aureus Greater Bamboo Lemur (E) Prolemur simus Ring-tailed Lemur (E) Lemur catta Common Brown Lemur (E) Eulemur fulvus White-fronted Brown Lemur (E) Eulemur albifrons Red-bellied Lemur (E) Eulemur rubriventer Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur (E) Varecia variegata www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 75

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Red Ruffed Lemur (E) Varecia rubra Indridae (Woolly Lemurs, Sifakas & Indri) Eastern Woolly Lemur (Avahi) (E) Avahi laniger Verreaux’s Sifaka (E) Propithecus verreauxi Coquerel's Sifaka (E) Propithecus coquereli Diademed Sifaka (E) Propithecus diadema Milne-Edwards Sifaka (E) Propithecus edwardsi Crowned Sifaka (E) Propithecus coronatus Indri (E) Indri Indri Pteropodidae (Fruit Bats) Madagascar Flying Fox (E) Pteropus rufus Tenrecidae (Tenrecs) Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec (E) Echinops telfairi Lowland Streaked Tenrec (E) Hemicentetes semispinosus Nesomyidae (African ) Eastern Red Forest Rat (E) Nesomys rufus Lowland Red Forest Rat (E) Nesomys audeberti

Reptiles

Crocodylidae Nile Crocodile (Essp?) Crocodylus niloticus Chamaeleonidae Antongil Leaf Chameleon (E) Brookesia peyrierasi Brown Leaf Chameleon (E) Brookesia superciliaris Elongate Ancient Leaf Chameleon (E) Palleon nasus Short-horned Chameleon (E) brevicorne Parson's (Giant) Chameleon (E) Calumma parsonii O'Shaughnessy's Chameleon (E) Calumma oshaughnessyi Cryptic (Blue-legged) Chameleon (E) Calumma crypticum White-lined Chameleon (E) Furcifer antimena Oustalet's Chameleon (E) Furcifer oustaleti Warty Chameleon (E) Furcifer verrucosus Panther Chameleon (E) Furcifer pardalis Opluridae Three-eyed (E) Chalarodon madagascariensis www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 76

Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Cuvier's Madagascar Swift (RE) Oplurus cuvieri Merrem's Madagascar Swift (E) Oplurus cyclurus Gekkonidae Common Leaf-tailed Gecko (E) Uroplatus fimbriatus Common House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Speckled Day Gecko (E) guttata Koch's Day Gecko (E) Phelsuma kochi Standing's Day Gecko (E) Phelsuma standingi Gerrhosauridae Malagasy Keeled Plated Lizard (E) Tracheloptychus madagascarensis Madagascar Plated Lizard (RE) madagascariensis Western Plated Lizard (E) Zonosaurus laticaudatus Scincidae Elegant Skink (E) Trachylepis elegans Boidae Eastern Madagascar Tree Boa (E) Sanzinia madagascariensis Colubridae Madagascar Cat-eyed (E) Madagascarophis colubrinus Blonde Hognose Snake (E) Leioheterodon modestus Gold-collared Snake (E) Liophidium rhodogaster Striped Madagascar Garter Snake (E) Thamnosophis lateralis

Amphibians

Microhylidae Narrow-mouthed Frog (E) Anodonthyla moramora Mantellidae Madagascar Jumping Frog (E) Aglyptodactylus madagascariensis Tsarafidy Pandanus Frog (E) Guibemantis pulcher Free Pandanus Frog (E) Guibemantis liber Ivohimanita Madagascar Frog (E) Mantidactylus majori Baron’s Mantella (E) Mantella baroni Climbing Mantella (E) Mantella laevigata

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Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017

Invertebrates

Citrus Swallowtail Papilio demodocus African Monarch Danaus chrysippus aegyptius Indian Ocean Satyr (RE) Heteropsis sp. Giant African Land Snail Lissachatina fulica Golden Orb-web Nephila sp. Giant Pill Millipedes (E) Zoosphaerium / Sphaeromimus Flatid Leaf Insect (E) Phromnia rosea Giraffe-necked Weevil (E) Trachelophorus giraffa Scorpion (E) Opisthacanthus sp. Madagascar Hissing Cochroach (E) Gromphadorhina portentosa Conehead Katydid Colossopus grandidieri Comet Moth Argema mittrei Madagascar Sunset Moth Chrysiridia rhipheus large robber fly species Asilidae sp. "hammerhead" flatworm species Bipalium kewense(?)

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