Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Madagascar: The Eighth Continent 30 October – 23 November 2017 Western Endemics Extension: 30 October – 3 November Helmet Vanga Extension: 19-23 November Tour Leader: Jay Packer This Scaly Ground-Roller represents just one of Madasgascar’s six endemic families. Note: All photos in this trip report were taken by Jay Packer. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 1 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Introduction Madagascar has been called the 8th continent because of its extreme isolation. As the southern supercontinent Gondwana broke up, Madagascar cleaved from Africa 135 million years ago. India followed some 45 million years later, racing towards its future collision with Asia. For 90 million years, Madagascar was been cutoff from the rest of the world, an island approximately the size of Texas, with nothing but time to evolve some of the most bizarre birds, mammals, and plants found on Earth today. And so it was to Madagascar that Tropical Birding and six adventurous clients headed, in search of the endemic species (approximately 110), endemic families (6), and even endemic orders (2) of birds. There are only 39 orders of birds in the world, and they include the major “types” of birds like ducks, hawks, perching birds, etc. Incredibly, Madagascar has 2 of these 39 orders, the mesites and the cuckoo-roller, all to itself. The trip was a resounding success. We tallied 170 species of birds, including all six endemic families – the mesites (we had all three), cuckoo-roller, ground- rollers (we had all five), Malagasy warblers, asites, and vangas. Of course, no one goes to Madagascar for the birds alone. Across life’s spectrum, the island is filled with endemic groups of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and so much more. We had 26 mammalian species (including 21 lemurs), 29 species of reptiles (including 11 chameleons), 7 amphibians, and no doubt an equally impressive number of insects, plants, fungi, and spiders most of which went unrecorded but were still appreciated none-the-less. 30 October 2017 Before flying out for the start of the western extension, we began the tour in the capital city of Antananarivo. In the morning, we made a quick trip to Lake Alarobia, a small lake on the northern edge of town. In addition to becoming acquainted with common birds that would soon become familiar friends, we were hoping to see two local species that can prove difficult to find: Meller’s Duck and Madagascar Pond-Heron. Both were cooperative. We enjoyed long looks at a pair of Meller’s Ducks shortly after arriving. The Madagascar Pond-Herons made us work for them, hiding out amidst several hundred similar Squacco Herons. After a thorough scan with the scope, however, their electric blue bills and bright red legs gave them away. We enjoyed lengthy views of two different birds. Other highlights included two confiding Comb Ducks, abundant Black Herons, shy Madagascar Grebes, and several electric Malagasy Kingfishers that offered extended This Malagasy Kingfisher stole the show on the first morning, scope views at close range. Involuntary oohs posing for digi-scoped pictures with the phone. and aahs were heard from pretty much everyone, including the guide. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 2 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 We then made our way to the airport for our flight to the coastal city of Majunga where we spent the night. 31 October 2017 We arose early in the morning and made our way to the boat to explore a small slice of the extensive delta where the Betsiboka River drains into the ocean. Our targets this morning included two endangered birds: Bernier’s Teal and Madagascar Sacred Ibis. The ibis is currently recognized as an endemic subspecies of the widespread Sacred Ibis, but as with most creatures in Madagascar, one suspects that a single genetic study is the only thing standing between it and full species status. The Sacred Ibis in Madasgascar can be told from their African cousins by their yellow eyes (as opposed to black) and pure white flight feathers, lacking black on the tips. We enjoyed numerous close views of several ibis foraging on the mudflats as the tide receded. Madagascar Sacred Ibis, an endemic subspecies or species. Madagasy birds differ from their African cousins by their yellow eyes (not black) and pure white flight feathers (as opposed to black on the tips). Bernier’s Teal was a little harder to find, making us slightly nervous as time wore on. In the end though, this just made our success in finding them that much sweeter. We located two birds feeding in brackish water along the mudflats. The species prefers nesting on freshwater marshes, which are under threat of human disturbance, mostly due to rice cultivation. Such a dichotomy in habitat preference is highly unusual for a dabbling duck. Other highlights this morning included large numbers of Lesser Flamingos, shorebirds (including some Old World gems like Terek Sandpiper, Greater Sandplover, and Common Ringed Plover), and Saunders's Tern. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 3 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Satisfied with our excursion, we headed across the delta—more like a bay, really—to the small village of Katsepy. Here, we enjoyed Namaqua Dove, a nesting pair of Madagascar Hoopoes, and a stunning Madagascar Bee-eater – none of which were the reason we came. No, the purpose of our visit was Crowned Sifaka, an endangered lemur that lives in the forest around the village. After a well-earned break with some refreshing drinks, we located a small family of confiding individuals resting in the shade as the day rapidly warmed up. We returned to Majunga for lunch and afterwards took the rest of the day off to escape the afternoon heat. Two Crowned Sifakas seek refuge from the sun in the shaded trees around Katespy. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 4 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 1 November 2017 The morning saw a two-hour drive, as we made our way down to Ankarafantsika National Park. The distance isn’t far, but the road conditions in Madagascar make for slow going. On the drive, we spotted a Sooty Falcon gliding above the hills along the road, like some over-sized swift on steroids. We also enjoyed our first looks at a colony of Sakalava Weavers. We reached the park at 7:00 AM, piled out of the bus, lathered ourselves in sunscreen, and headed into the forest of Circuit Retendrika where we hoped to see one of the park’s most prized birds, Schlegel's Asity. The asities are one of Madagascar’s six endemic families. They are passerines that feed on fruits and flowers and serve as one of the major seed distributors in Malagasy forests. The two sexes show marked differences in plumage, with males developing electric wattles of neon skin around their eyes during the breeding season. Schlegel's Asity is one of the harder of the four asity species to see, preferring the canopy of moist and transitional forests in Northwest Madagascar. In the end we prevailed, locating two birds—a young male and a female. But it was hard work searching for them in the heat that settled over us like an unwelcomed blanket. Other highlights of the morning included a Frances's Goshawk, a nesting Madagascar Green-Pigeon, a small flock of unusually cooperative Madagascar Buttonquail, three species of coua (Crested, Red-capped, and Coquerel's), a roosting Torotoroka Scops-Owl, brash Broad-billed Rollers, an assortment of vangas (Blue, Sickled-billed, and White-headed), Long-billed Berneria (a Malagasy warbler), both Madagascar Green and Souimanga Sunbirds, and many more. This male Schlegel’s Asity was a satisfying bird to find in the forest canopy of Ankarafantsika National Park. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 5 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Long-billed Berneria, a member of the Malagasy warblers, one of six endemic Madagascar bird families. Stripe-throated Jerry is not placed in the Malagasy Warbler family but is instead classified as a cisticola. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 6 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 This day-roosting Torotoroka Scops-Owl was an unexpected surprise on our morning walk. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 7 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Though the Madagascar Magpie-Robin may be common, that doesn’t make it any less charming. The Madagascar Sparrowhawk is seen less frequently than its smaller counterpart. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 8 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 Koch's Giant Day Gecko, one of the many phenomenal geckos in Madagascar. www.tropicalbirding.com +1- 409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 9 Tropical Birding Trip Report Madagascar: The Eighth Continent: Oct-Nov 2017 If there’s one truism about Ankarafantsika, it’s that it’s hot, with high temperatures pushing 38°C (100°F) during the summer months like November. So, worn out from the heat of the morning, we took lunch and rested up for the evening’s outing to Lake Ravelobe. Here, we chartered a boat for the hour before sunset, enjoying a flock of White-faced Whistling-Ducks, an assortment of herons (Great, Little, and Cattle Egrets, Black, Squacco, and Striated Herons), Kittlitz’s and Three-banded Plovers, and various other species now familiar to us.