Big Easy Beckons

6K Sunday, December 25, 2011 GuideLive.com TRAVEL dallasnews.com The Dallas Morning News The BigEasy beckons

Revitalized New Orleans boasts terrific surprises Some of New Orleans’ historic hotels are right on top of the French for new, frequent visitors Quarter action.

Photos by Eric Mohl/Horizon Writers’ Group Many French Quarter buildings feature ornate ironwork.

By KAREN CATCHPOLE Horizon Writers’ Group

EW ORLEANS — What other city has a coin laun- dry in a building that used to house the recording studio where Fats Domino, Little Richard, Ray N Charles and Dr. John recorded seminal tracks? Where else will your favorite local bartender hand you a to-go cup so you can take your favorite adult beverage with you? When was the last time there was real, live dancing in the

streets where you live? You don’t have to go far to find Take your adult beverage along music in New Orleans. with you as you stroll around New These are just a few of the things Breakfast near bed Orleans and see the sights. that keep me coming back to New Orleans, also known as the Cres- My top breakfast spot has always cent City or the Big Easy. New York been Camellia Grill, which is locat- may be so nice they named it twice, ed in a building that looks like a but they named New Orleans three miniature Southern plantation times. house. The perpetually smiling I’m not the only one who loves waiters all seem to have worked New Orleans. here their whole lives, serving diner In 2010, the city hosted 8.3 favorites to early risers and all- million visitors who generated $5.3 nighters. This Garden District billion, the highest tourism revenue classic requires a journey from the in the city’s history. All over town, French Quarter all the way up St. hotels, bars and restaurants are Charles Avenue. Now Camellia opening and icons are being Grill has opened a more convenient spruced up to get a piece of the French Quarter location (540 action. Chartres St., 504-522-1800, camel- During a recent trip to New liagrill.net). It replicates the ele- Orleans, I branched out beyond my gantly S-shaped marble countertop tried-and-true favorites and ex- and the Southern diner menu of the plored fresh finds. Add them to uptown original, including creamy your list of New Orleans musts to be freezes, but without the commute. French Quarter architecture such as this, the Olivier House Hotel, was sure you’re experiencing the best of inspired by the French, who settled New Orleans, and the Spanish who the latest developments. See REVITALIZED Page 5K rebuilt after devastating fires razed the city. The Dallas Morning News dallasnews.com FROM THE COVERS GuideLive.com Sunday, December 25, 2011 5K Tintin turns up throughout Brussels

Continued from Page1K quaffing beer in this city could Doré. Somewhat off the beaten fascinating study of the artist result in a connection with the tourist track, this funky, histor- Hergé and a vast collection of next to me. ubiquitous Tintin. After I ic place was once a favorite the artist’s personal photo- Brussels, of course, is spent one day wandering haunt of Hergé’s. (It was also graphs, sketches, documents known for its food: waffles, around and through the fairy popular with Magritte and the and original drawings. chocolate, mussels and frites. tale-like Grand Place, I ended surrealists.) The walls of the Back in Brussels, I couldn’t It’s also famous for its beer. I up at the unassuming store- cozy rooms are covered with leave for the United States quickly learned that even front of Le Fleur en Papier old photos, verses, framed without a visit to the popular letters and more. Even better, Place du Sablon. In the Upper they made their own choco- Town of Brussels, it’s home to lates! (Who knew beer paired many respected chocolate so well with chocolate?) shops: Pierre Marcolini, Leon- Later, on my way back to my idas and Godiva. I was on my hotel, I strolled through the way to the famous chocolatier ornate and fashionable Gal- Wittamer when I discovered eries St.-Hubert. With its that the life-size statue of Tin- 19th-century domed glass roof, tin in front of the Comic Strip St.-Hubert is known for being Café was almost right next the first shopping arcade in door. I would have stopped and Europe, and it remains one of had my photo taken with the the most elegant. Champagne city’s favorite character, but I shops and chocolate stores didn’t have much time, and Tourism Flanders abound within, including the there was a line. As much as I Tintin and his sidekick Snowy, appearing high atop the Neuhaus Chocolatier, with a now consider myself a fan of offices of Le Lombard, are a Brussels landmark. window display entirely devot- Tintin, I still know I’m more a ed to Tintin. Prints from Her- fan of chocolate. gé’s books were backgrounds to When you go Tintin-decorated tins spilling Donna Tabbert Long is a Hotel Amigo: Rue de l’Amigo1-3; roccofortehotels.com out chocolates, each wrapped freelance writer in Minnesota. The Comics Café — Brasserie, Bookstore, Gallery: Place du in a miniature frame from a Grand Sablon, 8; open every daynoon to midnight; Tintin cartoon strip. “Blister- comicscafe.be ing barnacles,” as Hergé’s char- Belgian Comic Strip Center: Rue des Sables, 20; open Tuesday acter Captain Haddock might to Sunday10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; comicscenter.net say; they seemed like the per- Le Fleur en Papier Doré: Rue des Alexiens, 55; open Tuesday to fect souvenir. Saturday11 a.m. to midnight and11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday; Serious Tintin admirers fleurenpapierdore.be could no doubt recite all of Neuhaus Chocolatier: Galerie de la Reine, 25-27; open Monday Captain Haddock’s alliterated to Saturday10 a.m. to 8p.m. and Sunday and holidays 10 a.m.-7 curses from Hergé’s 23 com- p.m.; neuhaus.be pleted Tintin books. Such Hergé Museum (Musée Hergé): Rue du Labrador, 26 B-1348 Louvain-la-Neuve; open Tuesday to Friday, 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. admirers will definitely want and Saturday and Sunday from10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; to visit the Musée Hergé, locat- museeherge.com; tintin.com ed about 30 minutes out of the Pierre Marcolini: Rue des Minimes,1; marcolini.be city in Louvain-la-Neuve. Godiva: Place du Grand Sablon, 47/Grote Zaval 47; godiva.be Even fair-weather fans will Leonidas: Place du Grand Sablon, 41; leonidas.com find the short journey worth- Wittamer: Place du Grand Sablon, 6,12,13; wittamer.com while. The magnificent con- For more information on visiting Brussels, go to: temporary building is built to Donna Tabbert Long/ visitflanders.us; visitbrussels.be; American Airlines offers several evoke the feeling of a ship, Special Contributor flights to Brussels daily from Dallas/Fort Worth International Liliane Opsomer/Special Contributor relating to Tintin’s travels to La Boutique Tintin near Airport. Tintin is depicted in a mural of a fire escape at 37 Rue de exotic lands. The museum is Brussels Grand Place sells l’Etuve in Brussels. more for grown-ups; it offers a all things related to Tintin.

When you go Revitalized New Goop.com — run by actress Gwyneth Paltrow, a New Orleans booster whose brother and father both went to Tulane University — offers city tips and publishes guest posts from her fabulous friends. Recently, singer Michael Stipe offered his Orleans beckons best-of list (goop.com/newsletter/96). Hotel openings to watch: ■ The Hyatt Hotel in New Orleans had been closed since Continued from Page 6K both genders) enjoy traditional Hurricane Katrina damaged it in 2005. It re-opened on Oct.19 dishes such as oysters Rocke- after a $275 million renovation that upgraded the 32-story Happiest happy hour feller along with a perpetually hotel to a Hyatt Regency (601Loyola Ave., 504-561-1234, full cocktail glass served at neworleans.hyatt.com) complete with a John Besh restaurant. An army of restoration their tables, which, it is as- ■ In the spring of 2012, the W French Quarter (316 Chartres workers and a $170 million sumed, they will not vacate St., 504-581-1200, starwoodhotels.com) will unveil a $10 million budget — the largest single until dinner time. renovation, including new guest rooms designed with tarot investment in post-Katrina “Welcome in!” is the greet- card and jazz themes, and a Cajun tapas bar. revitalization in downtown ing you get when you enter the ■ The landmark Audubon Building, which stood vacant for adecade, is returning as The Saint Hotel (931Canal St., New Orleans — have brought assertively blue Commander’s Eric Mohl/Horizon Writers’ Group the Roosevelt Hotel (123 Bar- Palace (1403 Washington Ave., 504-522-5400, thesainthotelneworleans.com). The Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar dates to 1732 and is said to beaux-arts building, completed in1909, will feature opening one St., 504-648-1200, the 504-899-8221, commanders be the oldest building used as a bar in the U.S. rates of $149 and a rooftop bar. rooseveltneworleans.com) palace.com) in the Garden painstakingly back to life. One District. Where Galatoire’s team of workers spent more feels like a private club in checked into Soniat House with the April unveiling of Access than a year refurbishing the which visitors are tolerated, (1133 Chartres St., 504-522- their new Apple Suites kitted Getting around: Cabs come when they’re called in New crystal chandeliers in this Commander’s, which was 057, soniathouse.com). Here, out with a wall-mounted LCD 504-room hotel, which was Orleans. The most reliable cab company I’ve used is United started in1880, feels like a 30 antiques-filled rooms and screen connected to an Apple Cabs (unitedcabs.com). Put their dispatch number built in1893. private club whose members suites in two facing buildings TV, which wirelessly talks to all (504-522-9771) in your cellphone so it’s handy when you need Don’t miss the antique relish the chance to playfully instantly take you back to a your other Apple products. it. French clock in the lobby. This show off to strangers. more genteel time with some The real draw, though, is Allen masterpiece from the late Unsung festivals: Mardi Gras (mardigrasneworleans.com) Creative takes on Creole of the most elaborate ironwork Walter; just don’t call him a and the Jazz & Heritage Festival (nojazzfest.com) are both 1800s was purchased by Nico- classics come at surprisingly in the Quarter and original mixologist. Walter prefers world-famous for a reason. However, New Orleans is full of less las Cagefrom a local antiques reasonable prices. “Angry architectural details through- spirits handler, which is appro- well-known excuses to party. dealer, but the actor was ulti- Oysters” fried on a bed of out. priate since he has recently ■ Held on the Wednesday between the two Jazz & Heritage mately persuaded to sell it to roasted corn, the pork-cheek An expansive street-side taken over the hotel’s bar, Festival weekends, Chaz Fest (May 2, $30, chazfestival.com) is the hotel. confit and the grilled Pacific porch is the perfect place to called Loa, a voodoo term for abackyard throwdown meant to give local bands who didn’t Just off the hotel’s historic sardines were all deliciously watch New Orleans stroll by. benevolent ghosts. Here, sur- make the official Jazz Fest roster a chance to perform. lobby lies the thoroughly mod- done, not to mention the 25- Baked-to-order biscuits in the rounded by bordello chic, ■ The second annual Street Fare Derby (August, $10 ern Domenica (504-648- cent martinis. Sensibly, they’re morning don’t hurt either. Walter brews his own bitters, advance, $15 day of, $40 VIP with prices subject to change, 6020, domenicarestaurant limited to three per person I’d also never stayed close to makes his own sodas and con- streetfarederby.com) will be held at the Fair Grounds Race .com). Overseen by celebrity “’cause that’s enough.” Ask for raucous Bourbon Street and cocts seasonal cocktails that he Course featuring more than 25 of the city’s best food trucks as chef John Besh, Domenica the Garden Room to enjoy the wasn’t entirely sure I wanted calls potations. It’s seriously well as quarter-horse racing. quietly offers one of the best ample sunlight and the leop- to. Then I discovered Hotel Le delicious stuff. Free food, fun and ferries: daily happy hours in town, ard-print carpet. Marais (717 Conti St., 504-525- ■ Enjoy free oysters and live music every Friday at uptown which is saying something in Opened in 2003, Ralph’s on 2300, hotellemarais.com). Do some good music club and bar Le Bon Temps Roulé (4801Magazine St., New Orleans. From 3 to 6 p.m., the Park (900 City Park Ave., Completely renovated and 504-897-3448). the gourmet pizza menu fea- 504-488-1000, ralphsonthe reopened in January, the stark- New Orleans tourism might ■ Some Friday night shows are free during the summer at turing pork sausage with scal- park.com) is the least tradi- ly chic hotel makes liberal use be booming, but the wounds legendary music venue Tipitina’s (501Napoleon Ave., 504-895-8477, tipitinas.com). lions and oven-dried tomatoes, tional of this lunch trio; it of purple, one of the three inflicted by Hurricane Katrina ■ The YLC Concerts at the Square series in Lafayette or clams, chilies and garlic, is serves “contemporary Creole” colors of Mardi Gras, and artsy are still far from healed. To half price. That’s just $6.50 for Square puts on free outdoor concerts every Wednesday dishes such as their Rouxben black-and-white photos of the help the city rebuild and to starting at 7 p.m. throughout the spring and summer a10-inch pie. Beer, wine by the sandwich, Louisiana seafood city and the state. More im- learn more about local restau- (wednesdayatthesquare.com). Proceeds from food and drink glass, and cocktails are also crepes and corn-fried oyster pressively, the hotel manages rants, check out The Man Who sales support the Youth Leadership Council. half price. remoulade salad as well as to create a serene environment Ate New Orleans (tmwanola ■ A free Canal Street Ferry ride across the Mississippi River classics such as fried chicken just steps from Bourbon Street .sitebrew.net). Produced by from the French Quarter to the town of Algiers and back offers and cheeseburgers. All orders with quiet rooms, friendly staff filmmaker Morgan Spurlock the best views of the New Orleans waterfront and skyline Lazy lunching come with views of the moss- and a welcoming bar that (Supersize Me), this documen- (friendsoftheferry.org). The whole idea of ladies draped oaks in City Park across opens onto a stone courtyard tary chronicles Presbyterian who lunch might not have the street, which is also a good with a small pool. There’s even minister Ray Cannata’s quest started in New Orleans, but it’s spot for walking it off. awell-stocked business center to eat at every restaurant in and one of its most powerful Harvest (no-hunger.org), and been perfected at the city’s and an efficient gym. New Orleans, or at least the saving graces. Proceeds from Musicians Village grande dame Creole restau- French Quarter 742 that fit his definition. the documentary, which will be (nolamusiciansvillage.org). rants. quarters Div(in)e bar Cannata wrapped up his epic shown in theaters in the fall Visit the newly transformed During Friday lunch at feat on Oct. 21 at a meal before going to DVD in the New Orleans soon. The city’s 106-year-old Galatoire’s (209 Despite spending dozens of The International House dubbed the Last Supper. winter, help pay for ongoing boom shows no sign of slow- Bourbon St., 504-525-2021, nights in New Orleans, I’d Hotel (221Camp St., 504-553- The reverend, a New Jersey rebuilding efforts in New ing; who knows what this galatoires.com), conservatively never stayed in a classic French 9550, ihhotel.com) is a celebri- transplant, believes food is at Orleans through Make It Right unstoppable city will have to dressed members of society (of Quarter historic hotel until I ty haunt, now even more so the heart of his adopted city (makeitrightnola.org), Second offer next.