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The Best of Denmark

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The Best of Denmark c524666 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 9:14 AM Page 4 1 The Best of Denmark Denmark presents visitors with an embarrassment of riches—everything from exciting Copenhagen to historic castles, unusual offshore islands to quaint vil- lages, and more. To help you decide how best to spend your time, we’ve com- piled a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the following pages, you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends. 1 The Best Travel Experiences • A Week Down on the Farm: The • On the Road on a Bike: Den- best way to see the heart of Den- mark is relatively flat, making it mark and meet the Danes is to one of the best countries in Europe spend a week on one of their for touring on two wheels. You farms. Nearly 400 farms, all over pass green hills, half-timbered vil- the country, take in paying guests. lages, castles, manor houses, beech Stick a pin anywhere on a map of forests, and lakes as you roll along. Denmark away from the cities and Cyclists are given high priority in seacoast, and you’ll find a traffic. You can set out on your thatched and timbered farm, or own, but a company that’s loosely perhaps a more modern home- affiliated with the Danish tourist stead. Almost anyplace makes a office is Bike Denmark, Olaf good base from which to explore Poulsens Allé 1A, DK-3480 Fre- the rest of the country on day densborg (& 48-48-58-00; www. trips. You join the host family and bikedenmark.com). It offers eight other guests for meals. You can different self-guided bike tours of learn about what’s going on at the Denmark. Some depart from farm, and pitch in and help with Copenhagen; others cover parts of the chores if you like. Activities Funen and, in some cases, south- range from bonfires and folk danc- ern Sweden. Tours last for 5 to 10 ing to riding lessons or even horse- days, and cover 20km to 60km and-buggy rides. Although the (13–37 miles) per day. Detailed official agency that used to arrange maps and directions are given to such holidays is no longer in exis- each cyclist, who proceeds at his or tence, many visitors seeking this her own pace along itineraries kind of offbeat accommodation especially selected for their expo- often surf the Internet for farms sure to areas of historic interest or that advertise their willingness to natural beauty. Luggage is trans- receive guests. Or, decide which ported ahead of time and awaits part of Denmark you’d like to be participants in their hotel rooms at located in, then contact the nearest the end of a long day of cycling. tourist office to see which farms • A Day (& Night) at the Tivoli: are willing to accept paying guests. These 150-year-old pleasure gardens are worth the airfare to c524666 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 9:14 AM Page 5 THE BEST SCENIC TOWNS & VILLAGES 5 Copenhagen all by themselves. to 100 warriors. And if you’re in They’re a little bit of everything: Ribe, check out the Museum of open-air dancing, restaurants, the- the Viking Age, where a multime- aters, concert halls, an amusement dia room, “Odin’s Eye,” introduces park . and, oh yes, gardens. the visitor to the world of the From the first bloom of spring Vikings through an all-around until the autumn leaves start to sound and vision experience. See fall, they’re devoted to light- chapters 4 and 5. hearted fun. The gardens are • In the Footsteps of Hans Christ- worth a visit anytime, but are ian Andersen: To some visitors, especially nice at twilight, when this storyteller is the symbol of the lights begin to glint off the Denmark. The fairy tale lives on in trees. See chapter 4. Odense, on the island of Funen, • On the Trail of the Vikings: where the shoemaker’s son was Renowned for 3 centuries of fan- born in 1805. His childhood tastic exploits, the Vikings home, a small half-timbered house explored Greenland, North Amer- on Munkemøllestræde where he ica, and the Caspian Sea from lived from 1807 to 1817, has been roughly A.D. 750 to 1050. Their turned into a museum. You can legacy endures in Denmark. Relive also visit the H. C. Andersens Hus, the age at the Nationalmuseet in see the large store of memorabilia Copenhagen, which displays bur- (including his walking stick and ial grounds of the Viking period, top hat), and take a few moments along with the largest and richest to listen to his tales on tape. But hoards of treasure, including relics mostly you can wander the cobble- from the “Silver Age.” Even Viking stone streets that he knew so well, costumes are on exhibit. At and marvel at his life and works. In Roskilde, explore the Viking Ship the words of his obituary, they Museum. It contains five vessels struck “chords that reverberated in found in a fjord nearby, the largest every human heart,” as they still of which was built in Ireland do today. See chapter 5. around 1060 and manned by 60 2 The Best Scenic Towns & Villages • Dragør: At the doorstep of Ærø, lies 29km (18 miles) across Copenhagen, this old seafaring the water south of Svendborg. A town once flourished as a bustling 13th-century market town, it is a herring-fishing port. Time passed Lilliputian souvenir of the past, it by, however, and for that we can complete with little gingerbread be grateful. It looks much as it houses. You expect Hansel and used to, with half-timbered ocher- Gretel to arrive at any moment. and-pink 18th-century cottages— See chapter 5. all with thatched or red-tiled • Ribe: On the peninsula of Jut- roofs. The entire village is under land, this is the best-preserved the protection of the National medieval town in Denmark. It’s Trust. A 35-minute ride from the famous for its narrow cobblestone Danish capital will take you back lanes and crooked, half-timbered 2 centuries. See chapter 4. houses. An important trading cen- • Ærøskøbing: This is storybook ter during the Viking era, it’s Denmark. The little village on the known today as the town where country’s most charming island, the endangered stork—often the c524666 Ch01.qxd 4/17/03 9:14 AM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF DENMARK subject of European myth and leg- Cathedral) in the city and nearby. end—flies back in April to nest. On the outskirts you can explore The medieval center of Ribe is everything from the 1554 Renais- protected by the National Trust. sance castle Egeskov to a 22m (72- From April until mid-September, a ft.) long 10th-century Viking ship night watchman circles the town, (at Ladby, 19km/12 miles north- spinning tales of its legendary days east of Odense). See chapter 5. and singing traditional songs. See • Ebeltoft: On Jutland, this well- chapter 5. preserved town of half-timbered • Odense: Thousands of Hans buildings is the capital of the Mols Christian Andersen’s fans visit the hill country. It’s a town of sloping storyteller’s birthplace every year. row houses, crooked streets, and Denmark’s third-largest city has a local handicraft shops. The Town medieval core, and you can walk Hall looks as though it were its cobblestone streets and admire erected for kindergartners to play its half-timbered houses, includ- in. In Ebeltoft you can also visit ing the H. C. Andersens Hus. the 1860 frigate Jylland, the oldest Odense is also a worthwhile desti- man-of-war in Denmark. See nation in its own right, with many chapter 5. attractions (including St. Canute’s 3 The Best Active Vacations • Biking: A nation of bikers, Den- Mosedalvei 15, DK-2500 Copen- mark has organized the roads to hagen (& 39-27-88-44). suit the national sport. A network • Fishing: For centuries, Danes of bike routes and paths is pro- relied on what fishers could pull tected from heavy traffic, and out of the sea for their diet. Since much of the terrain is flat. Bicy- then, no smørrebrød buffet has cling vacations are available as been complete without a selection inclusive tours that cover bike of shrimp, herring, and salmon. rental, ferry tickets, and accom- The preparation of plaice, cod, modations en route. Some deluxe eel, perch, and trout are culinary tours transport your luggage from art forms. The seas off Funen’s one hotel to the next. For more 1,095km (680-mile) coastline, information, contact the Danish especially within the Great Belt, Cycling Federation, Rømersgade have yielded countless tons of 7, DK-1362 Copenhagen (& 33- seafood, and that tradition has 32-31-21; www.dcf.dk). encouraged anglers and sport • Camping: There are a number of enthusiasts to test their luck in the pleasant, well-equipped camp- rich waters of the Baltic. Many grounds near Copenhagen and outfitters can introduce you to the elsewhere, and a total of 516 mysteries of fresh- and saltwater throughout the country. For infor- fishing. One of the most consis- mation about campsites and facil- tently reliable is Ole Dehn, Søn- ities, contact the tourist dergard 22, Lohals, DK-5953 information office in the town or Tranekær (& 62-55-17-00; www. region that appeals to you. You can oledehn.dk). Its most popular also write to a nationwide organ- offering involves half-day deep- ization devoted to marketing sea fishing tours on the Great Danish campgrounds to the rest of Sound, which cost 220DKK the world, the Campingraadet, ($29) per person.
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