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[email protected] warwick.ac.uk/lib-publications Trained to Consume: Dress and the Female Consumer in England, 1720-1820 Serena Dyer A thesis submitted in part fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in History Department of History University of Warwick September 2016 i CONTENTS Abstract v Declaration vi Acknowledgments vii Abbreviations viii List of Figures ix List of Tables xiv List of Graphs xiv INTRODUCTION 1 0.1 Understanding Consumption 11 0.2 Material Culture: Approaching Dress and Fashion 18 0.3 The Gendered Consumer 25 0.4 Methodology and Sources 30 0.5 Thesis Structure 40 SECTION ONE: THE CULTURE OF THE CONSUMER 47 Chapter One 48 Political Economy, Consumption, and the Consumer 1.1 The Rise of the Consumer 49 1.2 Gender and the Consumer 54 1.3 Luxury and the Consumer 57 1.4 Credit, Control, and the Consumer 61 i 1.5 The Active Consumer and the Conscious Consumer 66 1.6 The Consumer, Luxury, and Foreignness 71 1.7 Taxation and the Consumer 76 1.8 Conclusion 81 Chapter Two 83 Representing the Consumer: Idleness and Productivity