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Presentation in England THE JEWISH CHRONICLE THE JEWISH CHRONICLE 46 LIFE THEJC.COM 2 OCTOBER 2020 2 OCTOBER 2020 THEJC.COM LIFE 47 EDITED BY CATHY WINSTON TRAVEL EXPLORE [email protected] PHOTOS: DAVID GREVETT/REBECCA BARNES/PIXABAY Looking down the Aoos river (left) from Konitsa bridge (above), Epirus is also home to the dramatic Vikos Gorge (above right), ancient Lake Pamvotis (right)and rafting on the Voidomatis river (below), plus seaside Parga (below left) and local culinary delicacies including bougatsa (below right) Naturally Think you know Greece? Rebecca Barnes discovers the country’s best- goat’s and sheep’s milk and even A short drive away is the the Egyptian vulture, which is an kept secret in the medicinal Greek mountain tea region’s biggest draw, the Vikos endangered species globally. concocted from a plant growing at Gorge, said to be the world’s deep- Following one of the wooded diverse region of high altitudes in rocky soil. est canyon. I’m thankful that my hiking trails in the Unesco-listed Epirus At the highest point in Papigo head for heights isn’t too bad as Vikos-Aoos Geopark region, we village sits luxury hotel Mikro our guide Tasos leads us to a lofty climb the high arched Konitsa Papigo 1700, with panoramic vantage point high in the Pindus stone bridge and watch a herd of views of the Vikos Gorge from mountains. goats tumble down the riverbank Greek its terrace, plus a small spa. The The Oxia viewpoint sits at an to drink the Alpine water, presum- s my oar slices visitors to Greece, when you discov- second oldest lake in Europe, Lake across the road in front of us. We mountain hideaway is housed in altitude of 1,370m, and we focus ably a welcome respite in the Sep- chaotically into er the many natural wonders on Pamvotis, and with the traditional also pass rows of colourful bee- a restored building dating back on hugging the stone wall and not tember heat. the crystal-clear the mainland you’ll wonder why Zagori mountain villages on its hives, distant hilltop villages and to 1700 and features 15 individu- looking down until we reach the If you feel no Greek holiday is river, our guide it’s taken you so long to venture doorstep, Ioannina is home to one mountains as far as the eye can see. ally designed rooms and a hand- end of the narrow ledge — where complete without at least one Christos shouts, there. For starters, everywhere you of Greece’s eight Jewish communi- Food is taken seriously here ful of suites featuring fireplaces we are rewarded with stunning beach, Parga is less than 90 min- “You’re supposed look there are vistas that demand ties — the city has around 40 Jewish and the region is blessed with and Jacuzzis. views of the gorge, the valley of utes’ drive from Ioannina. This to paddle not you stop to drink them in — brood- residents, along with a Jewish may- abundant locally grown, organic We park in the village and our Mega Lakos and some unforget- seaside resort has that archetypal GETTING THERE stir the water, ing mountains, traditional vil- or who was elected in 2019. produce with a farm-to-fork phi- luggage is whisked up to the hotel table photo opportunities. “If you Greek island vibe with labyrin- VFLIGHTS TO Thessaloniki Rebecca!” But I soon hit my stride, lages, ancient arched stone bridges The boutique-style Metropolis losophy. One morning we pick in a buggy, leaving us to mean- stay a while you can see everything thine cobbled streets, bustling cost from around £125 with Agiving my arms the best workout and dense, green landscapes. It’s a Hotel is our base here for a couple up bougatsa, a local speciality pie der up the steep approach on down there, including wild goats,” harbour and plenty of inviting tav- British Airways and Aegean ever, to help power the inflatable nature lover’s dream and the per- of days — ideal for exploring the containing sweet or sometimes foot. While this is undeniably the Tasos tells us. ernas and bars in which to while Airlines, around three hours from raft downstream, slowing occasion- fect destination for active holiday- old town and castle which was savoury fillings, typically cheese ultimate secluded location, it’s Vitsa is also on the border of away an evening. Ioannina. Flights to Preveza ally to scoop up the fresh water and makers, as well as those looking to built in 528 and is a city within a or custard. It’s deliciously simple perhaps not ideal for those with the largest national park on the Climbing the wide steps in the airport cost from around £60 with quench our thirst. escape the crowds in the cities and city, with residential buildings and and authentic, if rather indulgent mobility issues. Greek mainland, Northern Pindos old town up to the Venetian castle, easyJet, around 90 minutes from Minutes later we’re jumping on the popular islands. narrow cobbled alleys. for breakfast. The following morning, we National Park, which was estab- we take in the views of the waves Ioannina. Car hire is available at into the icy — 4˚C to be exact — It’s best to factor car hire into After dark, the streets come alive At lunchtime, sublime suste- visit Vitsa, one of the largest of the lished to safeguard the region’s and harbour as the sun sets, bath- both airports. waters of the Voidomatis river your holiday plans: our road trip as many of the old stone buildings nance comes in the form of bowls 46 Zagori villages, with a no-car natural points of interest includ- ing the town in golden light. And A double room at the in Greece’s Epirus region. After was in conjunction with the Thema are transformed into uber-cool of Greek salad containing the rule and stone mansions built ing the Aoos Canyon, Voidomatis on the way back down we quench Metropolis Hotel costs from almost an hour of physical effort Project, launched to introduce visi- bars. We stop off for a reviving sweetest tomatoes and hunks of by well-to-do tradesmen in the river and Vikos Gorge. our own thirst al fresco at a terrace around £68. metropolishotel.gr in the September heat, it’s a real tors to the area and three culture, espresso freddo at a lakeside café, creamy feta cheese. We devour 18th and 19th centuries. Wander- Along with the unspoiled bar overlooking the harbour. A room at 1700 Mikro Papigo adrenaline rush. And it’s just one wellness and gastronomy routes. and grab a bite to eat at fashion- these under shady sycamore ing the traditional cobblestone scenery, you may spot one of the With so much to discover in costs from £100 (minimum stay of the surprises to be found in this In this age of social distancing, able street food outlet Folk. trees at the Achilles watermill streets, we forage blackberries, endangered mammals and birds this diverse region, take a tip two nights). mikropapigo.reserve- under-the-radar region, in the Thema’s app is also ideal for self- In Epirus, you never know what’s restaurant, overlooking the Kala- grapes, walnuts, hazelnuts and residing in the park, including from the laid-back atmosphere online.net north west of the country, on the guided tours around the region’s round the corner: one afternoon mas river. sweet cherry tomatoes along the one of the 100 brown bears, the in Epirus — leave plenty of time to For more information on Thema border with Albania. many places of interest. driving along a winding mountain You’ll also find excellent wines way, before relaxing in the central rare Balkan chamois — 50 per cent explore. This little-known corner Project, a programme funded by While sun, sea and UV are argu- Our first stop is the region’s capi- road, we come to a swift standstill from the Zagori and Metsovo areas, square under the shade of the of Greece’s chamois population of Greece is somewhere not to be the EU, Greece and Albania, visit ably the biggest attractions for UK tal city, Ioannina. Built next to the as a large herd of wild goats trot high-quality cheese made from 600-year-old plane tree. currently live in the park — and rushed. thema.eu.com.
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