Fashioning Women Under Totalitarian Regimes: "New Women" of Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia Victoria Vygodskaia Rust Washington University in St
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Washington University in St. Louis Washington University Open Scholarship All Theses and Dissertations (ETDs) 5-24-2012 Fashioning Women Under Totalitarian Regimes: "New Women" of Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia Victoria Vygodskaia Rust Washington University in St. Louis Follow this and additional works at: https://openscholarship.wustl.edu/etd Recommended Citation Vygodskaia Rust, Victoria, "Fashioning Women Under Totalitarian Regimes: "New Women" of Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia" (2012). All Theses and Dissertations (ETDs). 732. https://openscholarship.wustl.edu/etd/732 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by Washington University Open Scholarship. It has been accepted for inclusion in All Theses and Dissertations (ETDs) by an authorized administrator of Washington University Open Scholarship. For more information, please contact [email protected]. WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY IN ST. LOUIS Department of Germanic Languages and Literatures Program in Comparative Literature Dissertation Examination Committee: Lutz Koepnick, Chair Milica Banjanin Erin McGlothlin Max Okenfuss Lynne Tatlock Gerhild Williams Fashioning Women Under Totalitarian Regimes: “New Women” of Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia by Victoria Vygodskaia-Rust A dissertation presented to the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences of Washington University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy May 2012 Saint Louis, Missouri Acknowledgements I am grateful for all the intellectual challenges and support I have received at Washington University in St. Louis. From the very first seminar on (on Reformation, Witches, and Travel with Prof. Gerhild Williams), I was exposed to the most interesting primary sources and pertinent scholarship and became part of stimulating discussions. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to my “Doktorvater,” Lutz Koepnick, and my dissertation readers, Lynne Tatlock and Max Okenfuss, whose seminars especially kindled and fostered my academic interests, proved helpful in writing my comprehensive exams and eventually led me to this dissertation topic. I benefited immensely, both academically and personally, from the insightful and thorough comments and guidance I received from Profs Koepnick and Tatlock during the dissertation writing process; I am also very thankful for Prof. Okenfuss’s perspectives on the history of Late Imperial and revolutionary Russia. I admire their work and feel extremely fortunate to have been able to study and grow with such stellar scholars and teachers. They have enriched my experience at Washington University in St. Louis by pointing out my areas of growth and encouraging me to develop and clarify my own voice. I am deeply indebted to my German friends Annika Neesen and Christiane Neudorfer who at various points of this project offered help and advice. Annika and Tobi Neesen assisted me twice with obtaining a German visa and opened their home in Lüneburg for me to do research in the museum libraries of Hamburg, Berlin, and Frankfurt am Main. I enjoyed discussing my findings with Christiane, who traveled to Frankfurt am Main just to prove how welcoming and warm Germany can be. I appreciate the hospitality and friendship of these individuals more than I can ever express. I would also like to thank the knowledgeable staff of Stadtmuseum Berlin, Modeabteilung; Institut für Stadtgeschichte/Frankfurter Modeamt; Staats- und Universitätsbibliothek Hamburg; the librarians at the Minsk National Library, and especially Juliet at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, who provided access to German and Russian fashion magazines and women’s political journals and who helped resolve a number of technical difficulties that arose during my research. ii To my parents, brother Zhenia, extended family, close friend and scholar Irina Basovets, and high school teacher Alla Romanovna Patrikeeva who showed interest, excitement and patience when hearing me speak about my dissertation, as well as provided babysitting and fun experiences for my young daughters – my most warmest thanks. Our walks, shared delicious meals, skyping and email, and everything else in between made research trips to my home country so special. And finally, I would like to express my gratitude to my American family: my mother-in-law, Wendy Rust, the late Kim McDowell, and, most importantly, my best friend and amazing husband, Jon K. Rust, whose practical help, hugs, love, and encouragement sustained and revitalized me over the course of dissertation writing. I could not have done without Jon’s feedback and proofreading, his gentle and kind humor, and never ending patience and support. I dedicate this project to him and our daughters, Yuliana and Katya. iii Table of Contents Acknowledgements i List of Illustrations Introduction 1 Chapter 1 : A Brief History of the Woman Question in Russia and Germany 9 1.1 Origins of the Woman Question Debate in Russia 12 1.2 Russian Women’s Liberation Movements 22 1.3 The Woman Question in Late Imperial Russia 25 1.4 Origins of the Woman Question Debate in Germany 38 1.5 German Women’s Movements 46 1.6 The Woman Question in the Weimar Republic 58 Chapter 2 : From New Woman to Soviet Woman 71 2.1 A Star of Russian Modernism: Anastasia Verbitskaia 73 2.3 Chronicling Pre-Revolutionary Russia: !"# $%&'&() 81 2.4 ! Feminist Bolshevik : Aleksandra Kollontai 85 2.5 A Trumpeter of Socialist Realism: Anna Karavaeva 105 2.6 Narrating Soviet Civilization: *&+,-./,0 and !/,% 111 Chapter 3 : From New Woman to Aryan Woman 120 3.1 Vicki Baum: The Working Mother in the Weimar Republic 121 3.2 The New Woman as a Motherly Scholar: Helene 131 3.3 The New Woman as an Entrepreneur: Pariser Platz 13 137 3.4 New Woman as a Commercial Artist: Die Karriere der Doris Hart 139 3.5 New Woman as a Progressive Housewife: Zwischenfall in Lohwinckel 142 3.6 Gertrud Bäumer: the Spiritual Mother of the German Liberal Bourgeois Women’s Movement 145 3.7 Ina Seidel:A Visionary of German Womanhood 167 3.8 German Mother, the Mother of Germany: Das Wunschkind 176 Chapter 4 : Controlling the Body, Disciplining the Mind: Nazi and Bolshevik Paradigms of Emancipation 187 4.1 ‘The Woman Question Solved!’ : The Nazi and Bolshevik “Liberation” of Women 188 4.2 Strengthening the Body, Disciplining the Mind : Nazi and Bolshevik Organizations and Women 210 Chapter 5 : Dressing Women under Totalitarian Regimes 242 5.1 Proletarian “Fashion” 244 5.2 Nazi “Haute Couture” 270 iv Conclusion 293 Bibliography 304 v List of Illustrations page Illustration 1: ad from Volk und Rasse (August 1936) 195 Illustration 2: Propaganda posters on liberated Soviet Woman 197 Illustration 3: Propaganda posters on sexual license in Soviet Russia 200 Illustration 4: Propaganda posters on Stalinist feminine ideal 205 Illustration 5: Propaganda posters on Komsomol 219 Illustration 6: Propaganda posters on the BDM 220 Illustration 7: Propaganda posters on the BDM continued 221 Illustration 8: BDM activities, Deutsche Moden-Zeitung (1937) 224 Illustration 9 and 10: Women parachutists, Woman Worker (July 1936), poster on women achievers by Galina Shubina (1935) 234 Illustration 11: poster Oh My Motherland is a Spacious Country by Galina Shubina (1938) 236 Illustration 12 and 13: Pasha Angelina and Yadlovskaia Woman Worker (1937) 238 Illustration 14: Constructivists Fashions: Varvara Stepanova (1923) 254 Illustration 15: Creations of Inna Mukhina 255 Illustration 16: Fashion designs by Lamanova and Exter, from Shveinaia Promyshlennost’ (Vol 7, 1931) 256 Illustration 17: Two Types of Femininity in the 1920s Russia, from Woman Worker (1923) and News Of Fashion (1925) 258 vi Illustration 18 and 19: 4 1&-,(. (1929) and Shveinaiia Promyshlennost’ 260 (1939) Illustration 20: Woman Worker (1939) and Shveinaiia Promyshlennost’ (1931) 267 Illustration 21 and 22: Soviet Propaganda Posters on Fitness 268 Illustration 23 and 24: Elegante Welt (1934) and a cover page of Deutsche Moden-Zeitung (1936) 273 Illustration 25 and 26: article from Deutsche Moden-Zeitung (1936) and article from Die Dame (1937) 274 Illustration 27: BDM girls, Die Dame (1935) 276 Illustration 28: ad from Die Dame (1938) 277 Illustration 29: cover page from Elegante Welt (1933) 278 Illustration 30: Elegante Welt (1937) 279 Illustration 31 and 32: Nazi Women in Die Dame (1935) and hat advertisements from Elegante Welt (1937) 281 Illustration 33: cover page from NS-Frauenwarte (1940) and photo of Gertrud Scholtz-Klink 286 vii Introduction In the 1920s and 1930s, women in Russia and Germany faced a formidable task: to aid in the creation of vital, prosperous, and mighty nations. As Lenin, Stalin, and Hitler emphasized, the revolutionary changes – the violent demise of autocracy in Russia and the overthrow of the Weimar Republic in Germany – aimed at the construction of harmonious communities in which women were promised to play an instrumental role. Furthermore, the so-called Woman Question, the National Socialists and the Bolsheviks claimed, was solved under their leadership: in Germany, women were restored to “nature- intended” roles, while in Russia, women allegedly received previously inaccessible rights and freedoms. The grandiose transformation of the state and the individual envisioned by the Bolsheviks and the Nazis, e.g., the creation of “new men and women,” included the elimination of undesirable classes (Russia) or nationalities (Germany) and inculcation of the rest of the population with particular characteristics, values, and morals. In order to become members