Food Drink& What’s the boeuf ? French chef Fred Berkmiller serves his verdict on Scottish produce See pages 6&7

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IVEN that Scotland’s natural larder is stocked Scotland’s superb produce is so abundantly with some of the finest beef, venisonG and seafood in the world, now matched by its eateries the quality of venues for enjoying all that glorious local produce has for quality, says Robin McKelvie historically sometimes been disap- pointing. But there’s been a seismic shift in recent times and Scotland are now said to be worth more than The quality of Scotland’s produce now boasts an eclectic array of top £5 billion a year to the Scottish is in little doubt and it is no surprise notch outlets to match the coun- economy, with food exports rising that France – often hailed as having try’s superb ingredients. a staggering 63 per cent between the world’s finest cuisine – is one of Whether you want to savour 2007 and 2011 alone. Scotland’s largest export customers. your scallops pan-fried at a stall More than 300,000 people are The French and many other coun- by the sea, pop into a farm shop now thought to be employed in tries know all about the quality of for some organic goodies with the this booming sector, the success of Scotland’s salmon, beef and lamb, family, or indulge in a Michelin star which is built on simple founda- but also now about the previously have long known about Scotland’s ing annual festivals and create new feast, there is plenty on offer today tions: good provenance, proper lesser-known superb soft fruits, whisky, but they are just learning – events too. in Scotland. Join us for a tastebud- sourcing and, above all, quality all crustaceans and molluscs. They as are many Scots – about the first- Look out for highlights such as tingling tour of a country with a the way from farms, right through rate boutique ales and ciders the May’s Whisky Month, which com- growing reputation around the to intermediate producers and nation now boasts. bines the existing whisky festivals world for its food and drink. ultimately chefs and waiting staff. Next year marks one of the big- of Speyside and Islay with new We will take you to all corners of Scotland has come a long way. gest years in Scotland’s his- events, plus an ambitious attempt the land in search of high-quality Once, the idea of the country being tory. Politics aside, the to stage the world’s largest ever sit- ingredients, thoughtful sourcing a foodie destination would have year-long festivities of the down lunch in South Queensferry and, most importantly, reveal a rich been laughed off with tales of deep massive Homecoming in September, as part of the Forth smorgasbord of venues where you fried confectionery and other culi- 2014 will have food and Bridges Festival. can enjoy the produce. nary disasters, but Scotland today drink as one of its five cen- Also on the menu during Home- The food and drinks industry in is a gastronomic oasis with no tral pillars. There will be coming 2014 will be the likes of Scotland has always been impor- fewer than 16 Michelin-starred dedicated foodie events Dundee Flower and Food Festival, tant, but these days it is seriously restaurants, five of them in the up and down the country, Gastrofest and Flavour Fortnight. big business. In fact, food and drink capital alone. designed to augment exist- So join us now on this gastro-

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fine fare Scottish salmon and, inset left, Scotch whisky are appreciated the world No more heroes? Not the case over. Picture: Thinkstock

EvEry revolution needs its heroes and heroines, and Scot- land’s recent food and drinks ren- aissance is no exception. It’s been led by a small army of inspired innovators, from the visionaries who saw a gap in the cheese mar- ket and then radically changed the whole industry, chefs who have eschewed simple sourcing in favour of a stringent quest for 100 per cent sustainable seafood, and others still who saw the poten- tial in a remote, half derelict croft HaiL TO THe CHefS for an establishment that would Shirley Spear, top left, become recognised as one of the Roy Brett, left, and Tom Kitchin, Scottish stars in top 50 restaurants in the world. the foodie firmament Starting off with our croft- converting super chef, self-taught Shirley Spear is as real a food her- Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Fish Fight selling cookbook author, and the oine as you could wish for. When campaign, and Ondine has been man behind two Michelin star she apologises for not everything named the UK’s Fundraising res- restaurants, his eponymous Kitch- at her Skye restaurant, The Three taurant of the year by the Fisher- in and Castle Terrace, not to men- Chimneys, being local, she simply men’s Mission. tion this year’s new gastropub, means that they have had to bring Another big growth area in Scran & Scallie. in some white fish from Mallaig, recent years is cheese. No longer Kitchin’s rise has been a mix- across the water. is Scottish cheese a poor relation ture of steady, meteoric, and in- nomic tasting tour. We have an ar- Borders. We then head north into Shirley may be taking a bit of a to its French or English coun- exorable. After studying catering ticle on Scotland’s drinks offerings Fife, Perthshire and Tayside for our backseat from the kitchen these terparts. This is in no small part at Perth College he trained as an as an aperitif, moving on to swing main courses, discovering the com- days, but her uncompromising due to I.J. Mellis, who has done as apprentice at Gleneagles, before you around the country, kicking mon charms of each, such as high commitment to the local ethos much as anyone to nurture the working in the kitchens of some off with some amuse-bouche sur- quality soft fruits and a rich choice still shines, from tiny wild flow- growth of Scottish cheeses. of the great three Michelin star prises in the Lothians, Glasgow of restaurants, as well as their dis- ers through to seafood caught After 15 years in the industry, chefs, including Alain Ducasse and beyond, before heading south tinct attractions such as Arbroath by fishermen who she is on first he started offering farmhouse and Guy Savoy. to Dumfries and Galloway and the Smokies and Scotland’s only two name terms with. cheese to consumers and the res- It is no small accolade that the star Michelin restaurant. Seafood superstar roy Brett, of taurant trade from his specialist seminal restaurateur, Albert roux, “Scotland today is a Our tour draws to a close with Edinburgh’s Ondine, is not one to shop in 1993, displaying great bestowed on Kitchin when he de- the seafood of Argyll and Bute, settle merely for local produce. In- knowledge of the product and scribed him as the Scottish chef gastronomic oasis with before a final petit fours flourish in stead, he has set out an ambitious how to treat it properly. He now most likely to have their restau- 16 Michelin-starred the Highlands and Islands, where drive for his restaurant to use only has branches in Edinburgh, Glas- rant awarded three Michelin stars, more world class produce and MSC (Marine Stewardship Coun- gow, Aberdeen and St Andrews. a step that would further cement restaurants, five of them impressive dining venues await. cil) certified sustainable seafood. Tom Kitchin, meanwhile, is Kitchin’s place as one of Scot- in the capital alone” Hungry yet? If not, you soon will be. roy is also a supporter of Hugh today revered as a Tv chef, best- land’s true food and drink heroes.

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NO SMALL BEER Scotland’s got the bottle for Innis and Gunn’s ales are proving a hit with more than just the whisky, Canadian drinkers writes Robin McKelvie

O many people around indalloch, Polmont and Lunan, as the world, Scotland well as a micro-distillery and ware- means whisky, the spirit house in Glenrothes and a brand savoured in bars from new distillery on the wild ardna- TorontoT to Tokyo. Whisky seems murchan peninsula. to be on an inexorable rise both at Conjuring up images of the old home and abroad, but it has also days, when local communities been joined in recent years by a played a whisky-drenched game new wave of producers intent on of cat-and-mouse with the excise putting Scotland on the beer and – men, small stills are becoming whisper it – the cider map too. more en vogue. a shining exam- Even during the global recession ple on Islay is Kilchoman. In 2005, sales of uisge beatha (the much- this became the island’s first new eulogised “water of life”) gushed distillery in 124 years – as well as forth, with new markets such as its smallest. In its first year it only China and India replacing dips in yielded seven casks and it remains demand from traditional whisky charmingly boutique in scale and drinking countries such as Spain mindset, with information boards and France. Indeed, export sales hit in their café evoking the days of The pace of growth in boutique has put the north-east coast on the the “Cider Shed” on South Belton a record-high of £4.27 billion in the omnipresent illicit still. beers and ales in Scotland has been map for more than fishing with a Farm in East Lothian since 2008. 2012. This is up 90 per cent on just moving on to less potent drinks, breathtaking at times. Edinburgh- range of brilliantly marketed beers It was joined in 2010 by Waulk- a decade ago, a figure that equates beer, or more specifically ale, has based Innis & Gunn has not only and ales that have caught the imag- mill Cider, based in Langholm, to about one-quarter of total UK enjoyed a renaissance and inde- punched its way into bars, restau- inations of younger drinkers and Dumfries and Galloway. Its muckle food and drinks exports. pendent producers have emerged rants and shops in Scotland, but it connoisseurs. as well as exporting Toon Rosie cider (Langholm is as demand has ramped up, in- in what amounts to nothing short is now the most heavily imported beyond Scotland, it now has its known as the muckle Toon) is vestment has gathered pace too, of a craft beer revolution. The avant British bottled beer into Canada. own bars in Edinburgh, Glasgow, made from local fruit. Such is the with existing distilleries renovated garde of this new wave, including Then there is BrewDog, which across England and Stockholm. quality of its cider that 2013’s crop and expanded, and closed distiller- arran Brewery, Cairngorm Brew- Cider is most often associated has sold out and the company ies, such as Glen Keith on Speyside, ery, Orkney Brewery, Fyne ales “The pace of growth in with England, normandy and – has started exporting it too, an- re-opened. new distilleries are slso and Harviestoun Brewery, have boutique beers and ales thanks to some shrewd marketing other sure sign that today there is being built. Earlier this year, the expanded and become household – Ireland, but here, too, Scottish pi- more to Scotland’s drinks produc- Scottish Government announced names, muscling into delis and on in Scotland has been oneers are making inroads. Thistly tion industry than just its thriving funding for new distilleries at Ball- to supermarket shelves. breathtaking at times” Cross Cider has been produced at national spirit.

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6 Food & Drink gallic player Fred Berkmiller loves to showcase top-quality Scottish produce, such as a rib of Dexter beef from Dumfriesshire, at Modern take on his restaurants, which include L’Escargot Bleu, Auld Alliance far right. Picture: Scott Taylor

HE French may have a reputation for blindly French chef Fred Berkmiller is a placing their cuisine above all others but it is notT a view shared by every French- zealous convert to most things man. Fred Berkmiller, chef patron at L’Escargot Blanc in Edinburgh’s Scottish, finds Jonathan Trew West End and L’Escargot Bleu on Broughton Street, may have been born in Tours and weaned on Markets and realised that there are Finnan haddie from Boulogne, the boeuf Bourguignon but he is an fantastic products closer to home,” chef has no truck with, say, a Scot- enthusiastic champion of Scottish he says. “Scottish producers are tish brie. produce. so willing to pass on knowledge. “I’m happy to tell everyone how From Dexter cattle raised in They have so much passion. Now, great Scottish seafood, and lamb Dumfries to scallops harvested in why would I buy chicken from and beef are, but you won’t get Orkney, Berkmiller has long been a Paris when we have fantastic poul- me to say that the strawberries are passionate advocate of food grown, try from Gartmorn Farm or from great,” explains Berkmiller. “If you reared and fished here. His menus Linda Dick? Her chickens are the think they taste good it is because are French in execution but stud- most amazing I have ever had.” you have never had the real thing. ded with pig’s cheeks from Sunny- While Berkmiller is a fervent And as for the brie… side Farm in Sanquhar; duck from supporter of Scottish produce, “You have to be honest. Saying Gartmorn Farm in Clackmannan- he does not wave the flag indis- that Scotland doesn’t produce the shire and Wagyu beef from Black- criminately. This may make him best of everything doesn’t take ford Farms in Perthshire. Even the a marked man in Tayside, but he away from where it can genuinely snails he serves in his restaurants has few kind words for the Scot- claim to produce the best.” He kept trying to get the sack “I’m over 40 now and, come from the isle of Barra. tish strawberry. In his restaurants, If Jamie, Heston and Nigella but his boss would not let him This was not always the case. At his cheeseboards remain firmly make life in the kitchen look glam, go. Berkmiller even tried sabotag- as a chef, I feel it is a a previous restaurant, he would use French. One or two Scottish chees- then Berkmiller’s introduction to ing his nascent career by treading duty to pass on what imported French foods. His con- es pass muster for Berkmiller but the stove was rather more prosaic. on his own glasses but, thought- version to more local sourcing was woe betide the man who tries to “I was sent to a kitchen in Sainte- fully, his Mum simply drove to the we have learned and gradual but definite. sell him a Scottish take on French Maure de Touraine when I was 13. restaurant with another pair. our experience” “I started to do a bit of work produce. Just as a Scottish fish- It was a routiers’ [truckers] restau- “To be honest, the boss was a with Slow Food and the Farmers’ monger might sniff at the idea of a rant and it was hard,” he says. b*****d, but if I had the chance to

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allowed to prep poultry or rabbits he says. “We need to rediscover In March, students from the Lycée what we have learned and our straight from the farm. I would the real flavour of a chicken or a Hotelier de Dinard, a Breton cater- experience.” spend hours in the cellar pluck- good steak? What can you bring ing college, came to Scotland. In Berkmiller has spent most of ing and gutting the animals that to a steak that has been properly October, Berkmiller took chefs his life in the UK, much of it in Ed- the restaurant owner had brought reared and cooked? We need to from Martin Wishart’s restaurants, inburgh. He moved to London in back from his mate’s farm. It’s com- learn how to enjoy the true flavour the Kitchin, the Pompadour and 1988, met his wife Betty, and they pletely banned now and I think of the product itself.” Brasserie de Luxe, Centotre and moved to Scotland in 1995, work- that’s wrong. We have a generation Berkmiller shares his passion L’Escargot Bleu to Brittany. Among ing with Pierre Victoire. In 1998, who feed a duck in a park, but can’t for ingredients through his Bud- other destinations, the Scottish Berkmiller went into partnership make a connection between that ding Chefs programme. For the contingent visited an oyster farm, with a colleague and opened Petit and a duck on a plate.” last three years, he has led ex- a butter producer and an artisan Paris in the Grassmarket. L’Escargot Berkmiller’s approach to food is change trips between groups of pork producer. The visit culminat- Bleu launched in early 2009 and not exactly “back to basics”, but he young French and Scottish chefs. ed with the Scottish chefs cooking Blanc soon after. does think that while many con- a Breton banquet for 100 guests. While his accent remains firmly temporary chefs have great tech- “Budding Chefs aims to encour- on the Continental side of La Man- go back now I would thank him nique, their food often lacks taste. age young French and Scottish che, home is where the hearth is. because he did teach me about It looks good but has no heart. He chefs to widen their horizons Berkmiller’s hearth usually has a food. He would grow veg in his is toying with the idea of offering and to come and see what each cock-a-leekie soup bubbling away garden; conserve fruit over the stripped-back, single-ingredient country is producing and what on it. Made with Linda Dick chick- winter; salt his own hams. You dishes on his menu – just a cou- we are doing in our kitchens,” en, obviously. “I am French but I don’t see that anymore. On the first ple of prime scallops or a perfect explains Berkmiller. “What is bet- don’t feel as French as I am,” he rainy day, we would head out in Highland cattle steak. ter than passion and sharing that says. “I love being here because we his van collecting snails,” he recalls. “I think we have forgotten passion? I’m over 40 now and, as have passionate people producing “Back then we were still what some products taste like,” a chef, I feel it is a duty to pass on food in Scotland. I love it.”

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kids’ delight The fish suppers from Anstruther’s two outstanding chippies are reason enough to Eating out’s make the trip to Fife Picture: Paul Parke the in thing in Edinburgh With a wave of new openings, the city’s restaurant scene is buzzing, says Jonathan Trew kitchen confidence Tom Kitchin and Dominic fter a year which saw Mark Greenaway, in time for Jack opened Scran and big name openings by Christmas. Scallie in April. Inset, the the Galvin brothers at Simplified versions of dishes Timberyard Main picture: Julie Bull the Caley Hotel and from restaurant Mark Greenaway atimberyard, the radford family’s and updated french bistro clas- latest venture since the Atrium sics are promised. there is even dentials of its founders mean that edinburgh has not seen the belly-busting burgers, ribs and closed, 2014 is looking a little talk of a five-course grazing menu the emphasis is more on the gas- same explosion in gourmet burger pulled pork plates. quieter in terms of hotly antici- matched with beer, wine and spir- tro than the pub. Having said that, and BBQ joints that Glasgow has In terms of the far east, join- pated restaurant launches in edin- its to showcase Scotland’s drinks they stock a fine range of locally recently. However, at the more ing the city’s well established Chi- burgh. But the scene is by no means producers. Among the new restau- produced beers, a key feature of “dude food” end of the foodie nese are ting thai Caravan, Ong moribund. rant’s backers are the edinburgh- all the new bars riding the current spectrum, the Huxley at the rut- Gie and Harajuku Kitchen. In the Stockbridge is a hive of activ- based team who run foodies, the popularity of the craft ale wave. land Hotel and the Other Place in Old town, ting thai Caravan has ity. Having relocated his epony- UK-wide series of food festivals. Opened at around the same Canonmills, both relatively new bought zingy thai street food to mous, fine dining restaurant to the new venture will be in a time, the Vintage in Leith is argu- arrivals, have been winning fans the capital while in tollcross Ong North Castle Street in January, similar market to Scran and Scal- ably the most vibrant of the new with their finger-licking dogs, Gie specialises in barbeque which Mark Greenaway is not resting lie, the Comely Bank road venture wave craft beer bars. An amazing diners cook at hotplates on their on his laurels. Slipping into the opened in April by tom Kitchin array of artisan, UK-produced char- “Edinburgh’s high-end tables. Also in tollcross, Harajuku North West Circus Place premises of the Kitchin and Dominic Jack cuterie is just one of the reasons scene is well catered for Kitchen is a deli and bistro which recently vacated by Cafe fish, of Castle terrace. At launch, it was their food menu is as big a draw as has grown from a farmers’ market the chef plans to open a second billed as edinburgh’s latest gastro- their constantly changing roster of but you can also eat very stall. If you fancy some razor clam restaurant, Bistro Moderne by pub although the Michelin cre- genre-defying guest beers. well on a limited budget” nigiri, then you know where to go.

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EDINBURGH has always been a ment cocktail bar has a vintage drinkers’ city and it caters well for barber theme, and its back-story every hue of toper. From the swish involves three generations of pan- gin palaces of George Street to the das – proof that Edinburgh’s bar dwindling band of traditional tenders may be serious about their howfs, the capital has always been cocktails but can still spell fun. a great city in which to celebrate Tucked away on Advocates or drown your sorrows. Close in the Old Town is the Dev- Led by places such as the Hang- il’s Advocate. From the same peo- ing Bat, BrewDog and the Holy- ple who run the Bon Vivant bars, rood 9a, it has happily joined the known for their cocktails and UK’s love-in with craft ale bars. wine lists, the Devil’s Advocate At the same time, a new batch of shaker maker also explores the world of whisky. Edinburgh-based players are re- Cocktail bars are on From the South African Bain’s viving the city’s reputation as a the rise in Edinburgh Cape Mountain brand to Ameri- centre of brewing excellence. Yet, can rye, their back bar is a happy welcome as these new craft beer Voodoo Rooms, Bramble, the Last stable as Bramble and The Last hunting ground for liquor lovers. bars are, one could argue that our Word Saloon and the Bon Vivant Word, offers a seasonal cocktail Taking a more focused view, cocktail joints are the most inno- are often in the winners’ pen at list of 13 beverages made from Scotch is the new whisky bar at vative sector of the city’s drinks national cocktail competitions. just 13 drink brands in an ascetic the Balmoral. With over 400 Scot- trade. In the last few months, a hand- approach which fosters creativity. tish malts, it is said to have the Ignoring London, Edinburgh ful of new openings has widened The same spark can be seen most extensive range of any pub- has the most lively and cultured and deepened the city’s cocktail in the just-launched Panda and lic bar in Scotland. A shot of the cocktail scene in the UK. Bar keeps gene pool. On Queen Street, the Sons, also on Queen Street. Run by 1940 Macallan will put more of a from watering holes such as the Lucky Liquor Co, from the same Voodoo Rooms alumni, this base- dent in the wallet.

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advertiser profile campbells prime meat Lapping it up in Lothian Delights await beyond the City

CampBells is a family-run concern order individually in the traditional Bypass, says Robin McKelvie that’s been in business for over way and not in a production line, 100 years and is renowned for which makes a huge difference to supplying an extensive range of the quality and ensures the taste hink the Lothians and Stornoway black pudding and its fresh meat, fish and deli products remains consistent every time. thoughts of Edinburgh lesser-known sibling, Stornoway on a daily basis to scotland’s Christopher Campbell, managing inevitably dominate, but white pudding. Their range of top michelin star hotels and director, says: “We have received there is far more to this cheese is excellent too, while the restaurants. a phenomenal response from slicet of Central Scotland than just café serves up delicious homebak- anyone enjoying meat, fish or household customers who are the capital. Delve beyond the City ing. deli at martin Wishart, Nick Nairn or enthusiastic about having fresh Bypass and a wealth of restaurants, in Midlothian, the Sun inn is an Tom Kitchin restaurants quality produce as well as speaking food producers and farm shops award-winning gastropub that classical approach has probably already tasted directly with our butchers and emerge across the Lothians, West, lies just beyond the City Bypass, Ducks at Kilspindie Campbells products and can order fishmongers for expert advice Mid and East. but feels miles away from the offers proper fine dining the same prime quality via and personalised meat cuts. This West Lothian’s foodie hub is the city bustle. Good provenance is while, below left, quails’ www.campbellsmeat.com. success is due to being able to historic town of Linlithgow. here, paramount, with seafood coming eggs are on sale at The company delivers fresh customise and personalise at every the old world charm of Living- from Welch Fishmongers in new- Fenton Barns farm shop straight to customers’ doorsteps interaction we’ve had with our ston’s Restaurant, just off the main haven and steaks from butcher across the UK mainland in one household customers.” thoroughfare, is spiced up with John Gilmore, with meals finished working day, with all meat traceable Having started as a family creative dishes like seared scallops off with a coffee from Myrtle out. Their food hall stocks locally- back to farm and born, bred and business, Campbells places strong paired with smoked and maple- Espresso in Fife or a beer from the grown vegetables, organic meat, slaughtered in scotland. emphasis on family traditions glazed pork belly, topped with a independent Stewart Brewing. Scottish cheeses and free range Campbells dry-ages its beef for and values which is constantly cumin foam. Moving into East Lothian, a organic hens’ eggs, duck eggs and at least 21 days which improves the highlighted in its customer service. Just across the wealth of foodie opportunities quail eggs, as well as their own flavour of the meat and makes it This Christmas, it is offering a road is Taste, a deli open up as the Lo- brand homemade pies, pâtés, ter- more tender. The company is proud series of Christmas packs and a 20 with a café in the thians spill down rines, soups and puddings. of its scottish heritage and its very per cent discount for readers of this back. The deli of- from the Lam- Local produce shines through, own scotch beef brand. “Campbells supplement. For more information fers up their own mermuir hills be it East Lothian asparagus in the Gold” utilises scotch beef, lamb on Campbells’ exclusive Christmas creations, plus and reach summer, or Jerusalem artichokes and specially selected pork to offers for Food & Drink readers, steak pies fea- the north Sea in winter, a theme that also ex- guarantee the best quality meat. please call 0844 573 8456 or visit turing Orkney proper. Of the tends to their café. Campbells’ butchers prepare each www.campbellsmeat.com. island Gold farm shops, Fen- Two gastronomic temples stand beef, plus ton Barns, stands out on the East Lothian restaurant Come and Stay for only £49 Gosford Bothy Farm Shop when dining @Ducks New Head Chef at Ducks in Aberlady!! Butchery &Cafe Paulo has come from 4AARosette /1Michelin Star Danesford House in Marlowtocook for you. His food is Christmas 2013 outstanding. Over the winter we running some greatoffers Local Free Range Bronze Turkeys in the restaurant and the rooms so you can get ataste for Gosford Wild Boar Chipolatas &Stuffing Paulo’sfood before we relaunch Ducks in early spring. Ourown Dry Cured Streaky Bacon Call 01875 870 682 or LocalProperly Hung Beef,Lamb, email [email protected] Wild Boar &Pork to book this offer,itissubject to availability, Local &Homegrown vegetables we would love to look after you. Free Range Eggs & Quote Scotsman food offer. Many more festive foodie goodies..... Ducks at Kilspindie, 01875871234 Main Street, Aberlady,EH32 ORE FindUsOnFacebook Tel: +44 (0)1875 870682 Follow us on Twitter @gosfordbothy www.ducks.co.uk SPECIAL FEAturE 11

Thistly Cross cider. Duck’s Restau- rant offers proper fine dining, with the added bonus of a collection of 70 single malt whiskies. Seasonal local dishes include grouse two ways with dauphinoise potatoes, kale and a Madeira jus. Still further east, the old Victo- rian resort of North Berwick un- furls a necklace of sandy beaches as the Firth of Forth meets the North Sea. The highlight of the local catch is lobster. They don’t believe in drowning lobster thermidor style Champany at the bit in these parts so you can enjoy the sweet local lobster as simple as can be right on the harbour at the WEST Lothian rarely troubles which they store and present Lobster Shack. Its owners recently the foodie map of Scotland, but their Colston Bassett stilton. opened up the nearby Rocketeer, there is one restaurant that defi- The Champany Inn’s stellar where you can sit down to a grilled nitely deserves its place on it. In- purpose-built cellar is stocked deed, to call it a restaurant does with fine wines, ports and sher- “Local produce shines it a disservice as they have had a ries from all around the world, Michelin star and also boast bed- with a particular emphasis on through in East Lothian, rooms, a less formal chop house, South Africa. Highlights include be it asparagus in the a live lobster tank and a vast sub- the Burgundy whites and several summer, or Jerusalem terranean wine cellar. They also limited-edition vintages from mature their own beef and have the Cape Winemakers Guild artichokes in winter” their own label wine in a deeply in South Africa. All are cork impressive operation. bottlings. The recently opened lobster washed down with a glass The Champany Inn is the poly- Champany Cellars wine shop of East Lothian’s Thistly Cross cider. math of the West Lothian food also offers an entry level red, More sophisticated dining and drink scene, with legendary white and rosé, plus a Blue Label awaits at the Macdonald Marine stalwarts Anne and Clive David- quartet of single variety wines Hotel and Spa, where John Paul at son at the helm. Starting with the for special occasions. front. Both lie in the genteel wa- duce meets a classic French out- The Marine offers freshly-caught steaks, they select their own cat- It was always going to be diffi- terfront golf resort of Gullane. La look and Francophone techniques, and locally cured seafood, East tle then hang and butcher it on cult for Champany to hold onto Potiniere is owned by award-win- with dishes such as steamed North Lothian beef and pork, chicken site. As well as all the usual cuts its Michelin star, bestowed 20 ning chefs Keith Marley and Mary Sea skate wing with aubergine cav- and eggs that are all free-range. and perhaps Scotland’s finest years too late in 2008, but they Runciman. As founder members of iar, saffron potato and sauce vierge. Choose from mains such as chateaubriand, they offer both already had a solid customer base the Scotch Beef Club, their sourc- Legendary Edinburgh restaura- slowly braised beef cheek with sirloin and fillet on the bone and and they have always refused to ing is key, whether it is from local teur Malcolm Duck, meanwhile, creamed potatoes and a rosemary a porterhouse guaranteed to sat- tamper with what is a rock-solid farms or fishermen, or from their is the man at the helm of Duck’s jus, or confit belly of outdoor isfy the most rabid carnivore. culinary model no matter the own kitchen garden. at Kilspindie House in sleepy Ab- reared pork served with sautéed They also stock their own vagaries of the zeitgeist. Greywalls, meanwhile, boasts erlady. Choose between Donald’s bok choy and marmalade. Wher- fresh lobster and hot-smoke Given its continued insistence the Scottish Hotel Restaurant of Bistro and Duck’s Restaurant. The ever you dine in the unhurried their own salmon in-house. on top quality across steaks, sea- the Year 2012 in the shape of Chez former features well-sourced bis- calm of East Lothian, it feels like Their oysters come from Loch food, cheese and wine, the Cham- Roux from the much-celebrated tro classics as well as local twists you are a million miles away from Gruinart on Islay, and they have pany Inn fully merits its place on chef, Albert Roux. Here, local pro- like moules mariniere with local the bustle of the capital. won awards for the manner in the foodie map of Scotland.

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SPECIAL FEAturE 13

Glasgow is every gourmand’s dream city, writes robin McKelvie advertiser profile S Edinburgh basks in oysters and langoustines are done the limelight of its four CLAWS CELEBRE simply and perfectly, while other good spirits Crabshackk in Michelin-starred gastro- shellfish appears jazzed up with It’s a great time of year to Glasgow Picture: Robert Perry nomic palaces, glasgow Asian spices. The highlight is a discover The Good Spirits Co Ahas had to watch jealously from seafood platter for two at £70. (www.thegoodspiritsco.com), the sidelines, devoid of a star since The city’s hotel restaurants these but not just to snap up some the closure of gordon ramsay’s days are no slouches either as the Christmas presents. This Amaryllis back in 2004. This does elegant dining room in the heart specialist whisky and spirits not tell the whole story, though, of glasgow at blythswood Square store sells whisky, bourbon as Scotland’s largest city is in fact demonstrates. Carnivores are and rye whiskey, rum, home to a vibrant dining scene that rarely able to see past the charcoal vodka, tequila and mezcal, invigorates the city and stretches Josper grill, which cooks steaks gin, cognac and armagnac, well beyond its urban boundaries. to perfection, with twice-cooked liqueurs, cocktail ingredients Michelin-starred kitchens there hand-cut chips on hand too. Other and other spirits. It also may not be, but superb value ea- warming winter dishes include stocks quality champagne teries and creative talents there gartmorn chicken from Clack- and fortified wine along with are aplenty. Take Cail bruich, a mannanshire, served as a hot pot a range of bottled craft beer restaurant committed to local with fondant potatoes, celeriac and its Spanish cedarwood, produce and foraging. its chefs purée, roast root vegetables and its walk-in cigar humidor is filled think nothing of popping over own roasting juices. with a tempting selection the road down to the banks of the beyond the city limits, the signa- of Cuban and other cigars, river Kelvin in search of wild gar- ture restaurant at Cameron house as well as lighters, cutters, lic and herbs. Their main dishes on Loch Lomond does veer into cases and home humidors. feature plenty of finesse too, such Michelin star territory, even if the The Good Spirits Co hosts as poached sole with a lobster chef behind the restaurant is Edin- superb tastings, with the mousse, cocoa beans, squash puree, burgh’s Martin Wishart. The Auld emphasis on quality and samphire and lobster emulsion. Alliance is sublimely celebrated broadening horizons. The glasgow’s pubs have always with such treats as comte cheese- purpose-built tasting room enjoyed a reputation for their crusted Scrabster turbot with cara- accommodates up to 30 gregarious, informal nature melised onion, walnuts, pomme people for regular tasting and that spirit carries into West in class boulangère and sauce vin jaune. nights, ad-hoc tastings for the butchershop bar & grill in doon the watter, the Arran private groups, or hen and the West End. The décor may Taste Trail has opened up an is- stag parties. be knowingly reminiscent of place are West Kilbride oysters and ing in glasgow such an enjoyable land that boasts its own distill- Current tastings bring the new York, but the ambience is cold smoked Troon-landed rain- experience. Since 2009, Crabshakk ery, brewery, no fewer than three spirit of Christmas quintessentially glasgow with the bow trout in a beetroot gazpacho has offered a cocktail of crammed- cheese producers, smokehouse, ice to the fore, with sort of open, informal service that and a celeriac remoulade. it is not together, often communal dining, cream maker and chocolatier. The port, Christmas wins repeat custom. The highlight just seafood that excels here in the stellar fresh seafood and inventive highlight among the local restau- cocktails and a of an extensive steak menu is their West End – try roast saddle of wild cooking. The usual suspects such as rants is the bistro at the douglas Christmas Day hulk of chateaubriand with all the Scottish rabbit served with a confit hotel, with its excellent steaks and tasting trimmings. leg of rabbit, spring roll, Stornoway “One fun restaurant seafood. to tingle The Finnieston is one of a new black pudding, winter chanterelles sums up what makes gazing out across the Firth of your wave of pubs that has raised the cu- and a Calvados apple puree. Clyde, the glittering lights of Edin- taste linary bar. gone is the ubiquitous One brilliantly fun restaurant dining in Scotland’s burgh’s Michelin firmament don’t buds. ping of the microwave and in its perfectly sums up what makes din- largest city so enjoyable” seem to shine so brightly.

Perfect Hampers &Gifts from Billington’s Recent winners of BBC Good Food Guide AwardFor “Best Deli in Glasgow” Billington’sofLenzie specialises in artisan and locally sourced products with an extensive deli counter featuring homemade meats and a selection of quality products sourced from all over the world. Having recently launched their online Hamper &Gifts site offering fantastic quality gift ideas at incredibly reasonable prices, pickone of their suggested gifts or set your ownbudget and instructions, makes the perfect Christmas Gift. www.billingtonshampers.co.uk Billingtons of Lenzie, 114 Kirkintilloch Road, Lenzie, G66 4LQ TeL: 0141 776 8090 Trip advisor Reviews -

‘This is by far the best seafood restaurant we’ve ever been to...... small cosy family friendly restaurant ....staffvery attentive....and the seafood platter was simply out of this world. Can’t wait to return to Oban and this fabulous little gem of arestaurant.’ ‘Incredible food only surpassed by one of the most stunning views you will ever enjoy in arestaurant. Fantastic service too.’ ‘The Seafood Temple packs amazing seafood, great service and fabulous views into asmall and unique space. A really delightful dining experience for any traveller to Oban’ Serving Fresh Locally Sourced Seafood...

The Seafood Temple is asmall niche and intimately run restaurant serving locally sourced produce in asimple way with arelaxed atmosphere enhanced by the unique views over the island of Kerrera. Our Ethos is FRESH &LOCAL. Our home cooking is straight from sea to plate, you will under no circumstances be served fish that has been frozen. We seek to make customers’ experience unique and memorable, offering atrue taste of Argyll which is why we are internationally recognised and recommended. We are an ideal location for small intimate weddings and private functions. Whether it is a christening, family reunion, Christmas party or any other special event in your life you can guarantee the temple will have the perfect setting to accommodate for amemorable evening.

THE SEAFOOD TEMPLE 01631 566 000 Dungallan Park, GallanachRoad, Oban, PA34 4LS WWW.OBANSEAFOOD.COM 16 Food & Drink

kids’ delight The fish suppers from The coastal region offers high quality from the Anstruther’s two outstanding chippies are reason enough to simple to the sumptuous, says Robin McKelvie make the trip to Fife Picture: Paul Parke Fife flies flag for fishy feasts

ife is often overlooked That fife offers first-rate chip- The produce culled from the in food and drink circles, pies should be no surprise given land is impressive too, with boun- but if you neglect it you the swathe of coastline in the tiful soft fruits and red meat. There are missing a trick. This is region and its still active fishing are numerous pick-your-own fruit fan epicurean oasis awash with su- villages. fife stretches its tenta- farms and farm shops. One of the perb seafood, bountiful soft fruits, cles along the northern shores most enjoyable is the Pillars of boutique cheese producers, award- of the firth of forth, before turn- Hercules, which offers its own fruit winning chippies and great value ing north around the east Neuk and vegetables along with many fine dining restaurants. along the North Sea towards the other organic goodies. They even This eastern region is home bake their own bread on site and to not one, but two of the finest “This is an epicurean boast a café which also hosts film chippies in Scotland and they are oasis awash with superb and dinner evenings. just yards from each other in the An even more family friendly whitewashed fishing village of seafood, bountiful soft foodie option is Cairnie fruit farm. Anstruther. The Anstruther fish fruits, and fine dining” Open from spring through to late as a large bouncing pillow and a carrot, honey and ginger soup Bar is a multi-award winner with autumn, their pick-your-own is 30-metre flying fox. spiced with coriander cream, or unusual options like monkfish and River Tay. Along this litto- the stuff of local legend. for Back on the coast, things step pan-fried lemon sole with Glamis sustainable choices such as pol- ral are picturesque fish- kids there is a “Mega Maze” up a culinary notch at the Wee asparagus, new potatoes, wood- lock, which can be enjoyed in their ing villages such as and a host of other attrac- Restaurant in North Queensferry, land sorrel and dill hollandaise. 52-seater restaurant or takeaway. elie, Pittenweem, tions including a go-cart where Craig Wood and his wife Another Craig (this one’s a The Wee Chippy, a little further St Monans and track, giant straw bale Vicki offer affordable quality din- Millar) is also working wonders west along the waterfront, offers a Crail, each with climbing fortress, tram- ing in the shadow of the forth just along the coast at his epony- more “no nonsense” operation, but their own eating polines, swings, slides and Bridge. Having honed his skills in mous Craig Millar @ 16 West end the quality of the fresh fish and the and drinking op- a “young farmers’ yard” Michelin-starred kitchens, Wood in St Monans. This former Seafood brilliant simplicity of their nigh- tions to back up their with rides on pedal tractors, dishes up Scottish produce in crea- Chef of the Year makes the most of perfect fish supper is the same. harbours and beaches. loaders and trailers, as well tive ways such as Pillars of Hercules the east Neuk catch.

ORDER YOUR CHRISTMAS CHEESE NOW! end Farm S och hop L Wide selection of Scottish Farmhouse Cheeses Christmas Lunch Menu Local including Produce available from . our own: 1st to 22nd December Anster Coffee (inclusive) Open St Andrews Shop Booking Essential . 7days Farmhouse Cheddar Red Anster Closed 24th December 2013 to 2nd Pottery, aweek, January 2014 (inclusive) 9am -6pm Smoked Anster Crafts Waxed Truckles &Gifts FREE BOWL OF SOUP Also available: with this advert. Christmas Cakes, Down in the valley with the Lomond Hills to the north and Benarty Hill to the south, you will find Soups, Chutneys, Lochend Farm shop, only ashort walk away from the picturesque village of Scotlandwell near Kinross. Here you will enjoy the display of Lochend grown vegetables, not to mention our famous carrots, Preserves, Biscuits, Wines, produced here on the farm and harvested daily. We stock afull range of buffalo, Aberdeen Angus beef, Gifts and Hampers Puddledub pork and free range chicken. On the shelves we have local honey, candles, cheese, butter, oatcakes, jams, chutneys -all from local suppliers. We try to commit to Scottish products. Freshly prepared meals, Awarm, cosy wee coffee shop serves homemade soup, baking, pies and if you time it right, bread hot snacks &homebaking from the oven! The walls are coloured with artist paintings and crafts from the surrounding area. served daily If you are in the area why don’t you pop in for aFAIR TRADE coffee or tea. Hope to see you soon. St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Co Lochend Farm Shop, Scotlandwell, Kinross-Shire Falside Farm, Pittenweem, KY10 2RT•Tel: 01333 312580 Tel: 01592 840745 www.standrewscheese.co.uk •Email: [email protected] SPECIAL FEAturE 17 For the love of cheese

OF ALL the farm and small-scale food production that has mush- roomed in Scotland in recent years, perhaps the most impres- sive has been the nation’s new wave of cheese producers. These bijou operations often grow out of dairy farms seeking to diversify; a shining example of this is the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company in Fife. The Stewart family has farmed at Falside for more than 50 years, with dairy production always central to the business. Seeing In 2008, the first “Anster” cheese diminishing returns in dairy, was produced, and production farmer’s daughter Jane Stewart has since continued apace three decided to learn the art of cheese days a week ever since. making from scratch, using milk The Anster is made from un- from her husband Robert’s herd pasteurised Holstein Friesian of Holstein cows. milk. The process uses only Turning to cheese was no natural rennet to set the milk mere business decision, as Jane and the curd is milled through explains: “We have always loved a traditional peg mill, yielding a cheese, so our interest in it comes distinctive crumbly texture. from a genuine passion. I saw Traditional cast iron presses that no-one else in Fife was mak- form the cheese into the desired ing cheese from their own herd texture. During maturation, na- so thought I’d take a stab and see ture is again allowed to do her what we could come up with.” work, adding a thin, grey rind She took a cheese-making which enhances the flavour. An- course at Reading University, fol- ster cheese is now found in many Sangster’s first won a Michelin Inland Fife is no slouch either. its class, with a multi-course tast- lowed by a fact-finding trip to farm shops, delis and restaurants. star in 2009, and has impressively Indeed, perhaps Fife’s finest res- ing menu at £65 per person (£115 if Wales and south-west England, Jane is now recognised as a held on to it ever since. This Elie taurant awaits in the form of the you want matching wines) featur- where many of Britain’s artisan visionary who saw what could eatery is run by chef Bruce Sangster Michelin-starred Peat Inn. Semi- ing the likes of oyster panna cotta, farmhouse cheeses originate. be done with a struggling dairy and his wife Jackie, with a light, un- nal chef and food writer Geoffrey cured salmon, avruga caviar and Inspired by award-winning farm. Her cheese is perhaps best pretentious touch and a menu that Smeddle steers a tight “restaurant cauliflower purée or slow braised Welsh cheese-maker Leon enjoyed at the onsite Butterpat is at the affordable end of Michelin with rooms” here with his wife, featherblade of Scotch beef, St Downey, she returned to Fife Coffee Shop with a glass of wine dining. Provenance is key, with Katherine. Local produce is para- George’s mushrooms, tomato con- to set-up her own operation. By and homemade scones. Fittingly, local seafood starring alongside mount, with lobster and langous- fit, broad beans and glazed shallots. 2007 the Stewarts had a brand- the Butterpat enjoys a sweeping seared Ross-shire scallops and a tine landed at the local fishing port The Peat Inn is yet another rea- new building to house their view from the Stewarts’ farm, out twice-baked Isle of Mull Cheddar of Anstruther a highlight. son for foodies to ignore unher- cheese dairy, complete with a over the fertile land to the Firth cheese soufflé. The Peat Inn is great value for alded Fife at their peril. viewing gallery and coffee shop. of Forth and far beyond.

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Picture caPtion Anstruther fish bar County with Picture: Paul Parke the culinary kudos clout Perthshire’s rich store of fine produce and starry chefs is a revelation, says Robin McKelvie dining stable Chef ong gone are the days with first-rate ingredients, from Scott Scorer, above, showcases the region’s when the world did not bountiful soft fruits and wild rich larder at the appreciate what superb mushrooms, to salmon, trout, elegant retreat of natural produce Scotland beef and lamb, not to mention a Ballathie House. Left, lis blessed with in such abundance, string of fine restaurants, including 63 Tay Street and gone too are the days when Scotland’s only two-Michelin-star foodies thought Scotland’s chefs temple of gastronomy. did not know how to prepare and Kicking off in the county capi- Pallister is also the talent be- the hotel’s award-winning no 1 a consistently high standard of cook this world-class produce. tal of Perth, the restaurant scene hind a brace of restaurants at the The Bank Bistro, with potted Perth- cooking in the heart of Perth. Local nowhere is this more evident is unrecognisable from 20 or even Parklands Hotel, that graceful old shire venison to start and a choice venison is again on the menu this than in Perthshire, a region awash ten years ago. At the top of the tree dame on a bluff overlooking South of locally reared Aberdeen Angus winter, with a loin served with a is local boy made good graeme Inch Park. At the fine dining 63@ steaks on the chargrill to follow. potato hot pot and a creamed spa- Pallister, whose “local, honest and Parklands, sourcing is key in mains Deans @ Let’s Eat also offers ghetti of carrot, celeriac and turnip, simple” gastronomic mantra neat- such as haunch of Perthshire veni- laced with a sloe sauce and apricot ly chimes with the zeitgeist. son with Dauphinoise potatoes, “Perthshire is a region and prune Dauphinoise. His landmark 63 Tay Street of- green lentils, girolle mushrooms The renaissance in Perth- fers such delights as cauliflower and a redcurrant jus. awash with first-rate shire’s restaurants has spread its soup with curried cream and Scot- The red meat comes from ingredients, not to tentacles way beyond the city. tish kipper, and beef brisket Bour- butcher Simon Howie in Perth and Follow the River Tay north and you guignon with curly kale, mustard Macdonald Brothers in Pitlochry. A mention a string of soon reach the elegant retreat of potato puree and bacon. more relaxed atmosphere infuses fine restaurants” Ballathie House on a private estate Peace of Mind from WiltshireFarm Foods

•Wecan take careofyour mealtimes and tailor our service to suit you •All our drivers arefully DisclosureScotland checked •Weare proud to have Main meals from achieved Customer Service £2.95 Excellence Awardin2012 The frozen meals service with FREE delivery,straight into your freezer Shop -Visit -Eat WiltshireFarm Foods Ahidden gem at Lochleven in Kinrosshire with alarder full of festive spirit. Broich Road, Crieff, PerthshirePH7 3SG Channel Farm, Kinross-shire, KY13 9HD Tel: 01764 655859 01592 841000 Email: [email protected] www.lochlevenslarder.com www.wiltshirefarmfoods.com SPECIAL FEAturE 19

turns the neat trick of offering well sourced Scottish produce such as cit- rus cured smoked salmon with dill City quick on slow food uptake and cherry tomato salad, or a blade of Scottish beef, alongside a tapas MANY Scottish foodies tend to menu. think of the slow food movement The nearby Royal Hotel veers as either something brand new more towards the hunting, shoot- or just arrived on these shores. ing, fishing brigade with a main In fact, Scotland’s newest city of dining room that showcases red Perth became Scotland’s first Cit- meats, freshwater fish and game. taslow member in 2007 and has One restaurant that perfectly not looked back since. sums up the charms of Perthshire The concept of Cittaslow began is The Roost in Bridge of Earn, just a in 1999 when four Italian towns short detour off the M90. This cosy collaborated in a shared attempt family-run eatery is serious about to promote local produce, tradi- sourcing, but also about cooking tional cooking and hospitality; and service, creating a welcoming putting them at the heart of local and unpretentious experience. life. Today, more than 100 towns Expect such delights as home- and cities have been awarded cured Scotch salt beef or Perthshire Cittaslow status. Not just about stall good The farmers’ market at everyday choices to increase sales rabbit rillettes with pickled vegeta- food, the Cittaslow doctrine em- Perth was the first of its kind in Scotland of Fairtrade products and bring bles and crostini. braces some 60 separate strands about positive change for farmers While Perthshire now offers a of civic life, from environmental everything from sweet local jam and workers in developing coun- wealth of restaurant options, one concerns to the more commonly and tangy smoked venison to tries.” And Perthshire is one of name still towers head and shoul- espoused commitment to foster elderflower wine or and boutique Scotland’s leading members. ders above the rest. Perthshire- and develop “slow food”. Perthshire beers. The term can be a little woolly, born Andrew Fairlie is not only Perth was an ideal candidate Aligning with the Cittaslow, but what Fairtrade boils down to the county’s current culinary dar- given that Perthshire produces 90 philosophy, the Carse of Gow- is Fairtrade products being avail- ling, but perhaps Scotland’s most per cent of Scotland’s soft fruits, rie Heritage Orchards project able and actively promoted in celebrated culinary darling too. while its rivers conjure up some is a multi-agency initiative that markets, shops and restaurants. His Andrew Fairlie at the Gle- of Scotland’s finest trout and aims to “safeguard and enhance Perth and Perthshire also host neagles Hotel is Scotland’s only salmon and its farms rear some orchards within an historic fruit- numerous events where the Fair- two-star Michelin restaurant. His of the country’s most prized lamb growing area by raising aware- trade ethos is further promoted. on the banks of Scotland’s longest sourcing and cooking is truly flaw- and beef. With just under 50,000 ness of their commercial, eco- In a modern world where mo- river. Multi award-winning head less, drawing on Perthshire’s and inhabitants, the city has adopted tourism and biodiversity value”. bile phones constantly beep and chef Scott Scorer is the man at the Scotland’s rich culinary larder with the slow food ethos with gusto. The first stage involved auditing celebrity chefs bully many people helm, dishing up such delights as highlights such as home-smoked Perth also strongly demon- the condition of the orchards and into cobbling together something sirloin topped with fried rooster Scottish lobster, or cepes and strates the Cittaslow commitment has now moved on to the future in an ever decreasing amount of potatoes and chanterelles from the Crowdie gratin laced with wild to “Buy Local, Eat Local” as it was management of the orchards and time, slow food comes as a relief. Ballathie Estate – which boasts its mushrooms and a truffle coulis. the first place in Scotland to open the promotion of their produce. As does a city where slow food own herd of Aberdeen Angus and Fairlie even sources lamb from a Farmers’ Market. These may be Fitting in neatly with Perth’s and the Cittaslow mentality are Charolais. his own shepherd brother, a rela- commonplace around Scotland Cittaslow focus is Perthshire’s taken seriously. When Cittaslow Further inland, many towns and tionship that says it all about a re- today, but the modern farmers’ pioneering approach to Fairtrade. was created, its pioneers dreamt villages offer restaurants and cafes gion that has helped cement Scot- are a relatively recent phenom- Fairtrade towns are generally de- of it being a journey rather than where local produce bursts to the land’s reputation as a country of enon. Held on the first Saturday fined by the European Union as a destination, and Perth is still a fore. In bijou Comrie there are a cou- the finest produce – and the chefs of each month, Perth’s is one of “any community in which peo- foodie hub taking delicious steps ple of options. The Deil’s Cauldron who know what to do with it. the largest in Scotland, and offers ple and organisations use their along that journey.

It’s awonderful gift

Ourhandmadepreserves, winners of the World Jampionships 2years running, are made from Perthshirefruit which our bees have helped pollinate.

Ouraward winning Scottish Heather Honey has recentlybeen found to have the same (if not better) health benefits Adining voucher from RestaurantAndrew Fairlie at Gleneagles–Scotland’s than Manuka honey. only two Michelin star restaurant–makes aunique and memorable gift.

100% Natural www.andrewfairlie.co.uk

SundayTimesBest UK Restaurant2012 E: [email protected] www.heatherhills.co.uk Heather Hills Farm, BridgeofCally, Perthshire PH10 7JG Tel:01250 886252 20 Food & Drink For a surprise, just follow the smokie signals Food fans: Stick Tayside on your FISH COME TRUE Arbroath Smokies are to-visit list, says Robin McKelvie covered by the EU’s Protected Food Name Scheme; The Blue Marlin ention tayside and Arbroath, they brought the famous in Dundee, left, serves up delicious Cullen great food and drink in Smokies with them. today, more Skink, right the same sentence and than a dozen local businesses still you may garner a few produce this delicious smoked msurprised looks. # haddock delicacy to a timeless this eastern enclave shouldn’t recipe. be a mystery – its soft fruits, for the fishermen may be gone, but instance, are well known, but it’s there is still top-notch seafood to rooms, too, if you want to complete have since poured in, including seafood restaurant Blue Marlin. As neighbouring Perthshire’s straw- be savoured in Auchmithie at the the hedonistic experience. praise from celebrity chef Gary well as traditional treats such as a berries and raspberries that tend to But ‘n’ Ben. on the menu are, of Heading inland, the Angus Glens Rhodes. As well as homemade deliciously creamy Cullen Skink, hog the limelight. course, Smokies, but also locally are a scenic oasis alive with deer dishes, Johanna and Philip make the menu is spiced up with mains tayside’s seafood, too, is superb, landed lobster and crab. and all manner of game and game their own chocolates. such as grey sole fillet dipped in but it never seems to attract the the star attraction is the But birds. Kirriemuir is the place to it is fair to say that Dundee has panko and then deep fried, served same praise as the haul from up ‘n’ Ben Fruits de Mer, a platter of not always enjoyed the best of with oriental spiced roast potatoes, the coast in Peterhead and Fraser- smoked fish and shellfish for just “A flurry of drinking and reputations for fine food and drink. a mandarin and basil salad and a burgh. Delve into tayside, though, £21.95. the But ‘n’ Ben also prides eating outlets are slated Lately, though, bright spots have fiery wasabi mayonnaise dip. and you will soon realise that there itself on sourcing as much seasonal emerged with the likes of Jute at Pushing east into the beachfront is far more on offer than just its fruit and vegetables from local to be part of big plans Dundee Contemporary Arts, with suburb of Broughty Ferry, there is famous Arbroath Smokies. farms as possible. for Dundee’s waterfront” zesty, thoughtful dishes such as sea a choice of characterful pubs and Arbroath Smokies were awarded Also near Arbroath is the award- bass with sweet potato fries and a cafes. the Glass Pavilion makes european Union protection winning Gordon’s Restaurant in relax in a café or enjoy something sweet and sour chunky salsa. the most of its prime position in 2004. no mere marketing inverkeilor. As well as seafood, more substantial. Johanna Dundee’s waterfront is in the overlooking the sands, and does concoction, they originated just other local delights include Glamis Woodhead and her husband Philip midst of a revamp too, with a a decent plate of fish and chips, outside Arbroath, in Auchmithie. estate roasted loin and slow-cooked turned their backs on executive flurry of eating and drinking or mouthwatering dishes such as When fishermen from the village haunch of roe deer with a shallot jobs to set up their own artisan deli outlets slated to be part of the big linguini laden with prawns, clams, relocated to the harbour at and hazelnut puree. there are and café here, 88°. the accolades plans. For now a shining light is mussels and scallops.

BBruce rymer Ltd ProvidingMeat To People Café in Newport on Who Care How it Tastes TayNow Open! STUFFED PORK LOIN £3.96lb =£8.74kg Christmas Day Lunch SCOTCH CHICKEN Bookings being taken between FILLETS 12 and 430pm £3.98lb =£8.77kg Adults £47.50 Under 12s £20.95 and Under 5s £10.95 At KitschnBake we takecake The Family Butcher seriouslybut Winner of the BBC Good Food Guide Hogmanay Party nottoo seriously.. “U.K.’s Best Sausages” featuring the awardwinning band ©photosbyzoe ORDERS ARE NOW The Big Show and includes Afantastic addition to Newport on Tay’s evolving scene created by adelicious 4course meal the KitschnBake team. An eatery aware BEING TAKEN FOR ALL of the importance of quality products £45 per person matched with friendly service. YOUR FESTIVE FAYRE Ingredients supplied by small, local, like Book now to avoid disappointment. minded companies. This brand new space has uninterrupted views over the River 9StDavid Street, Brechin Visit our website for full details at To discuss Tay to Dundee. Perfect for enjoying our your sweet treat needs spectatular Scottish sunsets, dolphin www.northern-hotel.co.uk watching and our award winning baking. Call01382 542704 The BBQ Specialist Email: [email protected] 2Clerk Street, Brechin DD9 6AE 16-18 Boat Rd, Newport DD6 8EZ T:01356 625400 |[email protected] |www.northern-hotel.co.uk www.blog.kitschnbake.co.uk Tel. 01356 624 645 AdveRtising FeAtuRe 21 Argyll and Bute is rapidly becoming the seafood heartland of Scotland, writes Robin McKelvie

pot luck Oban’s fishermen cull langoustines, mussels and lobster from the rich inshore waters. Inset, Creggans Inn on loch Fyne

A taste for the fruits of the sea

cotland is renowned for Just metres back from the pier, creggans Inn, where you can its seafood and nowhere the Waterfront Fishouse Restau- feast on the likes of seared loch advertiser profile can it better be appreciated rant is arguably the finest seafood Fyne Scallops with Stornoway than in argyll and Bute. restaurant in oban. Book ahead for black pudding and anise juices the seafood temple Sthis dramatically scenic western a coveted window seat overlook- or red mullet laced with herb THE Seafood Temple Restaurant in littoral and its isles are fertile ter- ing oban Bay and tuck into home- crushed potatoes, wilted red chard, Oban hints at a reverence for fish, ritory for all manner of shellfish made lobster ravioli, Isle of Mull chargrilled fine beans and a but the reality goes far beyond and pelagic species, which thrive scallops, perfectly cooked white beetroot reduction. anything its name suggests. When in the cold, nutrient-rich waters fish or plump local langoustines. alternatively, just enjoy a pint Eilidh Smith bought the Temple in fed by the Gulf Stream. the good Moving south-east, the loch from nearby Fyne ales and a half 2011, she was realising a dream she news for Scottish seafood lovers is Fyne Seafood Bar and Restaurant is a dozen oysters in the creggan’s had nurtured for more than 20 years, that no longer is all of the best of perhaps the most famous seafood MacPhunn’s Bar. and the result is a venture where the catch hauled off to london and restaurant in argyll. It re-opened on the very southern tip of every detail has been carefully Madrid – a rich bounty of seafood earlier this year after a major over- cowal is the gleaming multi-mil- considered. restaurants is now dotted around haul. the best tables overlook the lion pound Portavadie Marina, A passion for cooking is at the the region’s coves, bays and isles. eponymous loch, and you can heart of the menu, with everything White fish comes from D Watt and the heart of foodie argyll and survey the oyster and mussel beds “The heart of foodie fresh, local and homemade, so the Son on the Railway Pier in Oban, the Bute is undoubtedly oban, which outside the restaurant. For a real choice varies according to seasonal smoked salmon from Murray Smoked styles itself as the “Seafood capital treat, sharing a heaving seafood Argyll and Bute is availability, and, in the case of the Products just 30 miles south of Oban, of Scotland”. this is no idle boast, platter is the only option. Oban, which styles seafood, weather conditions. and the butcher is Grants of Taynuilt. as Scotland’s busiest ferry port is lying just across loch Fyne Teamwork also plays a big part Eilidh brings new meaning to fresh also a working fishing harbour on its eastern shores is the often itself as the “Seafood in the Seafood Temple’s success, and local, with many of her choices with a flotilla of small boats fetch- neglected cowal Peninsula, where Capital of Scotland” as Eilidh sets great store by her literally being the perfect illustration ing langoustines, mussels and a flurry of restaurants await, offer- tight-knit group of staff who work of the “sea to plate” philosophy. The lobster from the inshore waters, ing shellfish from inshore waters which offers 230 berths for boats seamlessly together. The teamwork restaurant’s atmosphere is bright and larger trawlers which chase and fresh fish landed at tarbert. and lots of accommodation options. is also clearly apparent in her and welcoming, with friendly and the white fish further out. near the top of the loch, right Its signature restaurant special- suppliers, all of whom she can list by knowledgeable staff happy to advise arrive by ferry and oban’s sea- on the water, is the whitewashed ises in ultra-fresh seafood sourced name, with evident respect for the on menus and accompanying wines. food is unmissable. a bright green from loch Fyne and tarbert, quality of their produce. The seafood here is undoubtedly shack occupies a prime position such as pan-fried scallops spiced Lobsters, crabs and langoustines the main event, beautifully presented on the pier. they will let you taste with chilli and garlic butter new are supplied by her fisherman to its best advantage, but everything a bit of crab or scallop before com- potatoes. brother, Drew, and other local boats. else on the menu is of similar high mitting to buy. It is no risk to them the newer lodge offers a more Mussels are from Balvicar, farmed by quality. Desserts are homemade and as, with seafood this fresh, buy you relaxed experience with the likes Jack MacGregor, scallops from the delicious, and the final perfect detail will. For a fraction of what you of seafood taster plates and fish Isle of Mull, smoked mussels from is the restaurants setting on the would pay in a city restaurant you and chips, making for an ideal end Kintyre and the Pacific Oysters from Oban seafront with an outstanding can tuck into half a dozen king to a day exploring argyll and Bute, the renowned Caledonian Oysters view over the island of Kerrera. scallops or a whole lobster as the a region that is rapidly becoming Farm at Loch Creran. See obanseafood.com seagulls squawk overhead. Scotland’s seafood heartland. 22 Food & Drink Dumfries and Galloway’s many joys are unfairly overlooked, says Robin McKelvie

charm farm Cream o’ Galloway offers ice Discover a cream and an adventure playground hidden delight

umfries and Galloway – slow braised, roasted belly and is an unsung foodie sautéed fillet – a sign of a chef who corner of scotland. it knows both how to source and should be much more how to cook. dheralded than it is, with a coastline Dumfries and Galloway is also that provides delicious seafood awash with pubs, inns and hotel and a fertile hinterland that pro- restaurants that serve up unbeat- vides both prime dairy produce able value food for those on a and first-rate beef and lamb. tighter budget. Portpatrick on the Kicking off with the region’s rhinns of Galloway is arguably two restaurant big hitters, Knocki- the most picturesque town in the naam Lodge boasts a michelin star, region. Here the Crown Hotel offers while Blackaddie House deserves boat-fresh local crab claws and lob- one. Knockinaam Lodge reclines ster in its bar. The restaurant adds in its own wee cove on a secluded a touch more finesse with its excel- bay – it is easy to see why Winston lent value seafood platter, which Churchill and franklin D roosevelt comes in at just under £20. chose to hold a top-secret confer- The deceptively plain-looking ence here at the end of the second exterior of Campbell’s in Port- World War. patrick hides a superb value restau- café at readinglasses in Wigtown, Gatehouse-of-fleet, is ideal. The stocks sulwath beers, brewed in Today diners can enjoy delights rant set up in 1998 by robert and meanwhile, hides at the back of main aim of the attraction is to Castle Douglas, local irvings bis- of locally-sourced mains like roast Diane Campbell. They have their the renowned women’s bookshop. promote awareness about their cuits, and its own ice cream, beef cannon of Galloway lamb with own boat, which comes in handy. it is worth seeking out for the local award-winning ice cream, but and cheese. a potato and shallot rösti, grilled On the menu are local lobster, artisan Wigwam bread plus its there is plenty else on site includ- Whether you are looking to black pudding and baby vegetables. grilled mixed shellfish platters and homemade Galloway beef lasagne, ing an indoor play area, an adven- indulge in a michelin-star feast in a ian mcAndrew’s Blackaddie surf and turf, the latter combining cottage pie and chilli. ture playground, pedal karts, bikes, plush dining room surrounded by Country House Hotel is hidden their fresh catch with the best of for families looking for a day slides and nature trails. the intoxicating ghosts of Church- away inland, in sleepy sanquhar. Galloway beef. out, Cream o’ Galloway near Tours are available of the cream- ill and roosevelt, or you are just much-heralded chef mcAndrew Dumfries and Galloway also has ery and, of course, there is the in search of a health-conscious brings serious quality to this grace- many informal eateries and food “The region is awash highlight – tasting the produce. chippie, or even a café with a book- ful old hotel in the southern up- shops. The Balmoral in Dumfries with pubs, inns and The tours proudly display the shop handily attached, you will lands. Provenance is at the crux of may well be the region’s finest new dairy facilities, which aim to find it in Dumfries and Galloway. his work, with local Clash farm chippie, using health conscious restaurants that serve keep calves with their mothers This southern belle deserves to be rare breed pork served three ways rapeseed oil. The award-winning up unbeatable value” during milking. The shop here unsung no longer.

Gamedealers, Fishmongersand Award Winning, Traditional Smokehouse Mail Order aSpeciality

We Supply Venison - haunches, saddles, casserole, steaks, mince, burgers, sausages, roasts etc Gamebirds - pheasant, partridge, mallard, woodcock, woodpigeon etc Always agreat selection of fresh fish and shellfish available. Smoked Produce - Award Winning oak smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, trout fillets, venison, duck breasts, goose breasts and chicken breasts etc. Poultry - barbary duck breasts, goose breasts, corn fed chicken supremes, quail, poussin, guinea fowl supremes. Free range geese and turkeys available for collection or local delivery only. Please Visit Our Online Shop at www.baronycountryfoods.co.uk Phone: 01387 860487 or email [email protected] Carse of Ae, Lochmaben, Lockerbie, DG111SE SPECIAL FEAtuRE 23 Food well worthy of Sir Walter

The Borders has Scott the lot, fine dining The Horseshoe at Eddleston and right, one of its writes Robin McKelvie famed dishes, smoked salmon tartar.

HE rolling hills of the Christmas menus, with chestnut, Borders are renowned Traquair ale and Gorgonzola pie for their ballads, abbeys with roasted vegetables an option. and the romantic writ- On the High Street Coltman’s, Tings of Sir Walter Scott, but they run by Kenny and Karen Coltman, also excel for food and drink. has a deli at the front, where local Here you will find everything produce features heavily. Through from salmon and trout from the the back, in their dining area, the River Tweed, through to seafood mantra is “fresh seasonal produce, from Eyemouth and the highly cooked simply, without fuss”. acclaimed lamb from those rolling Melrose is another trim Borders hills, which can all be enjoyed in market town dotted with delis and myriad bars, inns and restaurants. food stores. The Market Square An eclectic variety of fish and shellfish is landed at Dunbar, Eye- “An eclectic variety mouth and St Abb’s. At the latter of fish and shellfish port, you can enjoy fresh lobster down by the old harbour, while is landed at Dunbar, in Eyemouth you can buy seafood Eyemouth and St Abb’s” just across from the fishing boats, or tuck into some of the best fish itself dishes up a brace of culinary recently replaced the “Inn” in its Alistair Craig, uses this pro- the charm of a historic country suppers you will ever savour at treats. Burt’s Hotel features both a moniker with “Restaurant with duce to conjure up such elegant house hotel in the Borders hills. Mackays of Eyemouth. They also bar area serving food and a more Rooms”) sits further north in dishes as honey roast St Brides The Cringletie Hotel’s Suther- do a more decadent grilled lobster refined restaurant. Seasonal sleepy Eddleston, within easy strik- Farm chicken laced with len- land Restaurant was awarded three and chips. delights include the likes of local ing distance of Edinburgh. It uses tils, shallots, cavolo nero and AA Rosettes last year. Highlights Moving inland, the town of wild venison, haggis and a neeps produce from its own kitchen gar- a black pudding bon bon in a include starters such as spiced Peebles is something of a foodie and tattie Dauphinoise, with a den, which is augmented by local Madeira sauce. home-cured salmon with yoghurt hub with its High Street and side confit butternut squash and truffle producers. The former chef at the Horse- marshmallow and sorbet and streets sporting a sprinkling of shiitake mushroom jus. The Horseshoe’s local suppli- shoe, Patrick Bardoulet, has moved pickled cucumber, and mains like delis and food shops. Val Brunton’s Just across the road, the same ers tend to pop up on menus on, but only a few miles along the “Borders Pig Cooked from Head to long established restaurant, the family, the Hendersons, run the throughout the Borders. They in- road to Cringletie House, where he Toe” with crushed potato in a cider Sunflower, cuts a steady Modern Townhouse, a hotel with both a clude Peelham Farm at Foulden, continues to marry fine locally- sauce. For a real treat savour the Scottish line, with a handy family- brasserie and a restaurant. Teviot Dryhope Estate in the Yarrow Val- sourced ingredients with his clas- six-course tasting menu, a pleas- friendly toy box on hand too. Local smoked salmon and venison star. ley and Ettrick Valley Smokehouse. sical French training and a creative ure that Sir Walter Scott would no ingredients make their way on to The Horseshoe (which has Head chef at the Horseshoe, touch. It all comes wrapped within doubt have approved of.

SPECIAL FEATurE 25 Raise a glass to Grampian’s larder

The north-east has a lot more Picture caPtion Innes and Gun. No on the menu than you might credit needed think, writes Jonathan Trew

ntil fairly recently, talk million pound concern which was of food and drink in this year crowned the fastest grow- Grampian might have ing food and drink company in revolved around vener- the UK. ableu products such as Aberdeen At the beginning of this year, Angus beef, fish landed at Peter- it opened a state-of-the-art, eco- head, whisky and the famous row- friendly brewery in Ellon. Body ie. However, since 2007, BrewDog swerving conventional financing has been the Grampian company from the banks, the project was with the loudest bark. funded through a crowd-sourced the independent brewer has equity offer marketed online. Lotta bottLe BrewDog never shied from controversy. it Just as the BrewDog brewery has proved a massive may not be to everybody’s taste has sustainability built into its success; inset, Nick but the marketing strategy of the DnA, green ethics are at the heart Nairn has a new venture Ellon-based firm always grabs of another award-winning Gram- headlines. From bottles sheathed pian business. in January, the Bay in tweed-draped road kill to driv- Fish and Chips shop in Stone- Sea haddock used in the shop’s Within the last month, native, ers bought the tamdhu distillery ing a tank around Westminster, haven was named as fish suppers. the latest venture from nick nairn, from the Edrington Group. Previ- the maverick beer and pub com- Britain’s independent Since Peterhead is the UK’s larg- opened. the celeb chef opened his ously a moth-balled site, tamdhu pany knows how to seize atten- takeaway of the Year. est white fish port, it is no surprise second cook school in the Granite single malt whisky relaunched at tion and, via the clever use of social the Bay has been a that Grampian has more than its City last year after being wowed by the Spirit of Speyside festival this media, how to build fierce brand pioneer in using sus- fair share of seafood restaurants. both Aberdeenshire’s natural pro- May. the distillery had been dor- loyalty among the usually tainable and traceable Well-established venues such as duce and the oil-fuelled resilience mant since 2009 but soaring global sceptical 25-35-year- fish. Opened in 2006, the Silver Darling in Aberdeen and of its economy. nairn’s new res- demand for Scotch convinced the old demographic. it was the first UK the tollbooth in Stonehaven have taurant in the Hilton Garden inn family-owned ian Macleod Distill- Since its 2007 chippy to gain recently been joined by Rock and Aberdeen City Centre specialises ers that the plant could be viable. launch, when it chain of custody Oyster, a newcomer to Aberdeen’s in Scottish produce such as Orkney Apart from the brazen excep- started selling certification by Union terrace. Formerly of Santini scallops, Dornoch lamb and locally tion of BrewDog, Grampian’s food its beer from the Marine and Amore Dogs in Edinburgh, landed langoustines. and drink producers don’t always the back of a Stewardship head chef Ryan Fowler showcases Older food and drink brands talk up their achievements quite as van, BrewDog Council for Scottish produce in dishes such as are also experiencing a new flush much as they might. they should is now a multi- the north Arbroath Smokie fishcakes. of life. in 2011, ian Macleod Distill- shout more loudly.

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he highlands and lies another seafood oasis. lochlev- islands may be most re- en seafood Café runs its own boat nowned for their epic and has its own filtration tanks. landscapes and rich his- You can just pop in and take some ttory, but this dramatically remote crustaceans or molluscs home, but corner of europe is also a hotbed of a much more enjoyable experience world-class food and drink. sprin- is settling into its restaurant. at £77, kled around the hills and glens, the seafood platter for two is worth and swimming in the rivers and every penny; it’s £85 if you prefer sea lochs, are myriad delights with the roasted creamy version. slice of heaven plenty of venues for enjoying all the an even more refined marine Dairy cheesecake from the Three Chimneys glorious local produce too. feast awaits at Crannog Restaurant Restaurant. Below, the With so much coastline along its on the banks of loch linnhe in seafood platter at the sinewy littoral and those myriad is- Fort William. delve inside this dis- Lochleven Seafood Cafe lands it is no surprise that the high- tinctive red-roofed seafood temple lands and islands bring in a hefty right on the old pier and enjoy the catch of seafood through a string fruits of the local fishermen’s la- choose from david Barnett’s fine the adjacent Torridon inn. Both has won numerous awards and of fishing harbours, with smaller bours before heading out on one of dining – think the likes of roast champion solid food provenance. accolades, even being recognised boats working out of isolated the cruises that they offer from just west coast John dory with razor aviemore may be a bustling as one of the top 50 restaurants in moorings too. outside. The daily seafood specials clam gratin – along with a whisky resort town in summer and win- the world by Restaurant maga- Much of the produce is spirited are the highlight, dictated by that bar in the main hotel or just enjoy ter these days, but it is a bit short zine. This old croft was brilliantly off to expensive city restaurants days’s catch. the more cost-conscious menu at of quality places to eat. help is on converted in 1984 into a sublime and out of scotland, but you can some of the best food and drink hand at the nearby hilton Coylum- gastronomic escape by self-taught enjoy it at simple venues like the in the highlands can be enjoyed in bridge. The highlight is the Bis- husband and wife team shirley and Kishorn seafood Bar. Just back from its better hotels. The ultra remote tro, where the scottish fillet steak eddie spear. the banks of loch Carron, this little five star The Torridon sits in the comes with a decadent local strath- Today, the spears let a hand- gem lays on a heaving seafood plat- wilds of Wester Ross on the shores don Blue cheese sauce. The many picked team run things, with ter for two laden with local lobster, of the eponymous loch. You can whisky distilleries of speyside are Michael smith making a name for crab, langoustines and oysters for just a short drive away from here. himself in the kitchen. You will just £25. its croissants with king “This dramatically Perhaps the most famous res- want to stay over in the luxuri- scallops in garlic butter are a thing remote corner of Europe taurant in the highlands and is- ous suites after dinner, enjoying a of wonder too. is also a hotbed of world lands lies on the much-eulogised venue that encapsulates the finest Further south, just off the road “isle of Mist”. skye is home to the aspects of food and drink in the between Oban and Fort William, class food and drink” legendary Three Chimneys, which scottish highlands and islands.

ONLINE Allarburn SHOP

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Scotland’sleading family owned Butchers Fresh Meat, Fish and Deli Products for every Kitchen

At Campbells we are now taking orders for our Traditional Christmas Dinner packs. We have three Family packs available offering excellent value for money and with all the trimmings you will need to make your Christmas Dinner that extra bit special. Included in our Christmas packs are the best quality poultry and meats along with the following - Virginia Smoked Streaky Bacon, Pigs in Blanket, Sage and Onion Stuffing, Scotch Smoked Salmon, Arran Kilbride Cheddar Cheese, Danish Blue Cheese Wedge, Morangie Brie Highland Fine Cheese Traditional Family Christmas Pack -£50 Includes all of the above plus aWhole Fresh Hen Turkey with giblets Family Christmas Pack 2-£40 Includes all of the above plus aGammon Joint Platinum Christmas Pack -£60 Includes all of the above plus Scotch Silverside of Beef, Prawns and Pannacotta mix All meat is fresh and traceable back to farm

This Christmas we are offering all families the chance to have their perfect festive dinner. Make it Special and order at www.campbellsmeat.com or call us on 0844 573 8756 Any orders (besides Christmas packs) placed before 26th December will receive a20% discount off our RRP. Please Quote: scotxmas at checkout to receive discount

FREE Standard Deliveryonorders over £50* Assured Meat Like us on Follow us on Quality *Excl. Sat delivery, and some outlying areas Scotch 100%