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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Central Scotland Why Go? STIRLING REGION .....181 The country’s historic roots are deeply embedded in Central Stirling ....................... 181 Scotland. Signifi cant ruins and castles from the region’s history pepper the landscape; key battles around Stirling The Trossachs ...........190 shaped Scotland’s fortunes; and Perth, the former capital, is FIFE.............................195 where kings were crowned on the Stone of Destiny. St Andrews ................ 197 Arriving from Glasgow and Edinburgh, visitors begin to East Neuk .................204 get a sense of the country further north as the lowland belt gives way to Highland splendour. It is here that the majesty PERTHSHIRE & of Scotland’s landscape unfolds in deep, dark, steely-blue KINROSS ................... 207 lochs that refl ect the silhouettes of soaring, sentinel-like Perth ......................... 208 craggy peaks on still days. West Perthshire .........213 Whether in the big-tree country of Perthshire, the bare Perth to Blair Castle ...217 landscapes of Glenshee, or the green Fife coastline dotted with fi shing villages, opportunities to enjoy the landscape abound: walking, cycling, and mountaineering are all easy possibilities. The region also has some of the country’s best Best Places to pubs and eateries, which greet weary visitors at day’s end. Stay » Monachyle Mhor (p 193 ) When to Go » M i l t o n E o n a n ( p 2 1 6 ) » Moor of Rannoch Hotel Stirling Te m p Rainfall (p 217 ) °C/°F Inches/mm 40/104 10/250 » Roman Camp Hotel (p 191) 30/86 8/200 » Spindrift (p 205 ) 20/68 6/150 » Dalmunzie House (p 222 ) 10/50 4/100 Best Places to Eat 0/32 2/50 -10/14 0 & Drink J FDNOSAJJMAM » Peat Inn (p 202 ) May If the weath- August Summer Winter Hit the » Moulin Hotel (p 220 ) er’s kind, it’s a in Fife is a top slopes at Glen- » Breizh (p 210 ) magical time for time for coastal shee for the sight » Seafood Restaurant exploring before walks and crusta- of Scottish crags summer crowds cean feasts. blanketed with (p 203 ) arrive. snow. Sights STIRLING REGION 1 181 Stirling Castle CASTLE Covering Scotland’s wasplike waist, this (HS; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk; h9.30am- region has always been a crucial strate- 6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) Hold Stirling gic point dividing the Lowlands from the and you control Scotland. This maxim has Highlands. For this reason, Scotland’s two ensured that a fortress of some kind has most important independence battles were existed here since prehistoric times. Com- fought here, within sight of Stirling’s hill- manding superb views, you cannot help top stronghold. Separated by 17 years, Wil- drawing parallels with Edinburgh castle – liam Wallace’s victory over the English at but many fi nd Stirling’s fortress more at- Stirling Bridge, followed by Robert Bruce’s mospheric; the location, architecture and triumph at Bannockburn, established Scot- historical signifi cance combine to make it a tish nationhood. The region remains a grand and memorable sight. This means it source of much national pride. draws plenty of visitors, so it’s advisable to Stirling’s Old Town perches on a spec- visit in the afternoon; many tourists come tacular crag, and the castle is among Brit- on day-trips from Edinburgh or Glasgow, ain’s most fascinating. Within easy reach, so you may have the castle to yourself by the dreamy Trossachs, home to Rob Roy about 4pm. and inspiration to Walter Scott, off er great Admission costs for the castle will rise walking and cycling in the eastern half of once the Royal Palace opens. The mooted Scotland’s fi rst national park (p261 ). price at time of research was £14 for adults, REGION CENTRAL SCOTLAND STIRLING 8 Getting Around which would include an audioguide. By the castle car park, the Stirling tourist Trains service Stirling but not the rest of the h region, so you’ll be relying on buses if you don’t office (admission free; 9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to have your own transport. First (%01324- 5pm Oct-Mar) has an audiovisual presentation 602200; www.fi rstgroup.com) is the main and exhibition about Stirling, including the operator. The Central Scotland Rover rail ticket history and architecture of the castle. (£33), valid for three days out of seven, allows Great Hall, Gatehouse, Royal Palace & SIGHTS unlimited train travel between Edinburgh, Chapel SIGHTSSTIRLING Glasgow, Falkirk and Stirling. The current castle dates from the late 14th to the 16th century, when it was a residence of the Stuart monarchs. The Great Hall Stirling and Gatehouse were built by James IV; ob- POP 32,673 serve the hammer-beam roof and huge fi re- With an utterly impregnable position atop a places in the largest medieval hall in Scot- mighty wooded crag (the plug of an extinct land − the result of 35 years of restoration. volcano), Stirling’s beautifully preserved After a long restoration project, the Roy- Old Town is a treasure trove of noble build- al Palace is scheduled to reopen as this ings and cobbled streets winding up to the book hits the shelves. It’ll be a sumptuous ramparts of its dominant castle, which of- recreation of how this luxurious Renais- fer views for miles around. Clearly visible is sance palace would have looked when it the brooding Wallace Monument, a strange was constructed by French masons under Victorian Gothic creation honouring the the orders of James V (in the early 16th cen- legendary freedom fi ghter of Braveheart tury) to impress his (also French) bride and fame. Nearby is Bannockburn, scene of other crowned heads of Europe. Perhaps Robert the Bruce’s major triumph over the the most spectacular is the series of tap- English. estries that have been painstakingly wo- The castle makes a fascinating visit, but ven. Based on originals in New York’s Met- make sure you also spend time exploring ropolitan Museum, they depict the hunting the Old Town and the picturesque path that of a unicorn – an event ripe with Christian encircles it. Near the castle are a couple of metaphor – and are utterly beautiful. Until snug pubs in which you can raise a dram the last one is complete (probably in 2013) to toast Scotland’s hoary heroes. Below the you can watch the weavers at work in the Old Town, retail-minded modern Stirling Tapestry Studio: it’s fascinating to see. doesn’t off er the same appeal; stick to the James VI (r 1567–1625) remodelled the high ground as much as possible and you’ll Chapel Royal and was the last King of love the place. Scots to live at Stirling. 182 Central Scotland HIGHLAND Highlights 1 Opening your Grampian Mountains jaw in amazement at the epic splendour of Loch Garry G Loch arry Glen Lyon (p 215 ) Ericht 2 Admiring \# the views from Blair magnifi cent Stirling 66Atholl Castle (p 181 ), Tay Forest Park Rannoch Moor Loch overlooking ancient # Rannoch 7 #£ Rannoch #\ Loch independence Station Kinloch Tummel R Schiehallion battlefi elds Rannoch (1083m) Loch 3 Pacing through Laidon Allt Mor historic St Andrews 66 Bridge of Aberfeldy (p 197 ) to the famous Fortingall #\ Balgie #\ Tay Old Course \# on Ly #\ 4 Strutting with Kenmore #1 CENTRAL SCOTLAND Glen Lyon peacocks at noble Scone Palace R Ben Lawers (1214m) (p 208 ), where Loch Lyon Loch Tay Scottish kings were crowned Lochay 5 Crunching #\ A local seafood in the Killin lmond To Oban (40mi); picturesque fi shing art Fort William (50mi) ch villages of the East ‚ Lo L e STIRLING REGION STIRLING Neuk of Fife (p 204 ) St Fillans dn #\ Crianlarich #\ ock 6 Nursing a pint Lochearnhead #\ of Ale of Atholl by a Loch #\ Ear n #\ Comrie roaring fi re at the Earn Crieff #\ Moulin Hotel (p 220 ) Balquhidder 7 Experiencing666 /·A84 life at the end of Loch the road amid the The Lubnaig Trossachs bleak landscapes Loch Katrine #\ of Rannoch Moor Callander Stronachlachar \# (p 216 ) R Ben 0¸A821 Lomond 66666Loch T e Achray ith #\ #\ #\ Doune Dunblane Aberfoyle Lake of Menteith Bridge #\ Queen Elizabeth of Allan Forest Park # 6666STIRLING Stirling 2 #^ Stirling Loch Lomond #\ Fintry Carron Valley /·M80 Reservoir 6666The Campsies Strathblane #\ #]Dumbarton 66Firth of Clyde ABERDEENSHIRE Glenshee 183 #å N Tilt o r t 020kmh e# E 010miless /·A93 k Ardle Spittal of #\ Glenshee r e t Ben Vrackie a R Backwater (840m) W Reservoir k ANGUS #\ c Killiecrankie a l Pitlochry B /·A90 #\ #6 Moulin Hotel So uth k Isla E s Forfar \# 6 Lunan Alyth Water \# T ay Blairgowrie a \# Isl PERTHSHIRE & KINROSS STIRLING REGION REGION CENTRAL SCOTLAND STIRLING #\ Dunkeld Coupar Tay /·A93 #\ Angus n /·A9 raa B Bankfoot #\ Dundee #^ la s I Firth SIGHTS 0¸A822 of Tay Methven #\ #\ #4 Scone Palace SIGHTSSTIRLING /·A85 #] Perth 0¸A914 #\ Newburgh #3#\ St Andrews #\ Dunning Cupar #\ \# Auchterarder Auchtermuchty#\ Eden East Neuk of Fife Falkland FIFE #\ #5 Anstruther #\ Milnathort /·A92 #\ Pittenweem #\ Yetts Kinross #\ o'Muckhart #\ Loch #\ en #\ #\ St Monans Leven Lev Earlsferry Elie Tillicoultry \# Dollar #\ Thornton #\ /·M90 Cardenden Ore Devon CLACKMANNANSHIRE #\ #\ Alloa #\ Lochgelly #] Kirkcaldy Ore \# Clackmannan Kincardine Dunfermline \# Culross #\ Firth of Forth #\ \# Aberdour #\ Rosyth #\ Falkirk 56°N EAST LOTHIAN FALKIRK /·M9 e Ty n WEST #_ 3°W LOTHIAN Edinburgh Museum of the Argyll & Sutherland and updates on current archaeological 184 Highlanders, Great Kitchens & Castle investigations Exhibition Argyll’s Lodging In the King’s Old Building is the Museum Admission to the castle also includes a of the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders guided tour of Argyll’s Lodging, at the top (donations encouraged), which traces the his- of Castle Wynd near the bastion itself. Com- tory of this famous regiment from 1794 to plete with turrets, this spectacular lodge is the present day.
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