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PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

17 Top Experiences ...... 4 4 Welcome to KL, Melaka & 17 Penang ...... 13 TOP Need to Know ...... 14 EXPERIENCES What’s New ...... 16 If You Like ...... 17 Month by Month ...... 19 COCOUNTRYOUNTRYRY &CI& CICITYTYY SHOESTRINGSHO ENCOUNTERENCCOUNTTER PHRASEBOOK 14 Itineraries ...... 21 Need to BigBi trip Know • The original • • Pocket-sized Currency Language » MalaysianPetronas ringgit Towers» Bahasa and Multicountry Shopping ...... 23 (RM) English • Comprehensive • • Easy-to-use It’s impossible to resist the magnetic allure of the Petronas Towers (p 40 ): the 452m-high struc 1 ture is beautiful to look at, as well as being the embodiment of Malaysia’s transformation into a fully developed nation. Designed by architect Cesar Pelli, this glistening, steel-wrapped structure Maximise budget is the focal point of the City Centre (KLCC), a 40-hectare development that also • Adventurous • • Highlights When to Go? includes an imaginatively Your designed Daily tropical park, a fun aquarium, an excellent kids’ museum, a Travel with Children ...... 26 world-class concert Budget hall and one of KL’s best shopping malls. Petronas Twin Towers Budget less than RM100 » Dorm bed: RM12–35 # Georgetown » Hawker-stall meal: GO year-round Regions at a Glance ...... 29 R10 » Plan sightseeing ‚ around walking tours Batu Caves Midrange (11km) RM100 #• Kampung –400 Baru # Kuala Lumpur GO year-round » Double room in midrange hotel: RM100–400 Melaka # GO year-round » Two-course meal in midrange restaurant: 29 RM40–60 Tropical climate, rain year-round » Ticket for theatre Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Little show: RM40 Top End India High Season Shoulder Low Season Looking for other travel resources? regions more than #• Menara KL (Dec–Feb) (Jul–Nov) (Mar–Jun) #• » End-of-year school » July to August, vye » The west coast RM400 at a holidays followed with visitors escaping monsoon season » Double room in five- by Chinese New the heat of the Gulf is over during this star hotel: RM450–1000 Year push up prices States as Malaysia time, when visitor and mean advance enjoys what it calls numbers are at their » Three-course meal glance #• booking of transport Arab Season. The end lowest. plus wine in top-end Merdeka Square and hotel rooms is of Ramadan, usually restaurant plus bottle (Dataran Merdeka) T important. in September, also of wine: RM200 Kuala Lumpur sees increased travel » Half-day Malay Lake cooking course: RM230 Malaysia’s capital of Kuala Lumpur #• activity in the region. Shopping33 Gardens (or KL as it’s commonly called) Food 333 #• is where you’ll most likely arrive Art Galleries 333 and spend the bulk of your time. Surrounding it is the state of Selangor, a prosperous industrial Super Shopping powerhouse with an excellent Shopaholics will be thrilled by KL’s multiplicity of malls. range of easily accessible tourist #• There’s also classic South- attractions including the urban east Asian fresh-produce day planning showcase of Putrajaya, markets and several atmo- the federal government’s spheric night markets, the most famous of which is the administrative hub. one along Chinatown’s Jln Bangsar Two hours’ drive south is the Petaling. Also don’t miss the historic city and state of Melaka; its Central Market, an Art Deco Village II glory days as a leading Southeast souvenir treasure house. #• Asian entrepôt may be long Fantastic Food Mid Valley ‚Megamall (1.5km) over, but this charming low-rise Allow your stomach to lead the way around KL. Tuck in community continues to draw with locals at the fantastic the tourist crowds. The island of hawker stalls along Jln Alor, Penang, 350km north of KL, may Imbi Market or Madras be Malaysia’s smallest state but it Lane. Sample Indian food in BrickÀ elds and Little packs a considerable multicultural India and a brilliant array punch with its fantastic food scene, of international options in heritage buildings of Georgetown Bangsar and along the city’s and cool hill station. party strip, Changat Bukit Bintang. Contemporary Art Access Malaysia’s vibrant contemporary art scene at the National Art Gallery or at exhibitions held in com- mercial galleries such as the Annexe Gallery and Valen- tine Willie Fine Art. p 34

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LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 185 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine KL, MELAKA & PENANG can make sense of what you see

KL, Melaka & population per sq km KUALA Penang Today ...... 186 LUMPUR MALAYSIA UK Lonely Planet in numbers

of the Srivijaya Empire, based in southern Sum History ...... 189 ≈ 120 people ire controlled the entire Straits, Jav 70 12 100,000,000 190+ and became fabulously rich from trade with Malaysian Cuisine ...... 200 the protection of the Srivijayans, a signiÀ cant M languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered up in the Bujang Valley area in the far north KL, Melaka & Culture ...... 210 Penang Today by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet 2nd century on our Thorn Tree guide AD O n e M a l a ysia? Environment & Wildlife .. 219 The t lerant mingling of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures in Ku Langkasuka, one um ur, Melaka and Penang are a large part of what makes these h travel forum of the À rst Hindu- toric cities so appealing. Here, the stories of Mala sia’s diverse ethn Malay kingdoms, is grou s an co onia empires are intertwined – south In ian coo s ser established on the peninsula around the area now known as Kedah. It lasted in one STAY IN TOUCH form or another until the 15th century. lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet

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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 32 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

Penang p142

COUNTRYCOOUNTRYRY &&CI CITYCITYY SHOESTRINGSHO ENCOUNTERENCCOUNTTER PHRASEBOOK • The original • BigBi trip • Pocket-sized • Comprehensive • Multicountry • Easy-to-use • Adventurous • Maximise budget • Highlights

Looking for other travelKuala resources? #_ Lumpur p34

Melaka p113

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Kuala Lumpur, M Penang all have and guesthouse dorm beds (from Directory A–Z ...... 226 RM10) as well as with shared or p rooms and a cho Lonely Planet in numbers air-con. Transport ...... 233 Hotels As a rule, budge poky box rooms thin plywood pa Directory and no windows Health ...... 239 a choice of priva 70 12 100,000,000 190+bathrooms and conditioning. In A–Z tels, ‘single’ norm languagesLanguage spoken ...... seconds pass 242 Lonely Planet guidebooks countriesone double bed, covered means two doub Promotional rates can aid ventilation, t Accommodation bring rooms at many top-end cheaper rooms by our writers between posts sold, and still counting hotels into the midrangeb y thea ceiling, Lonely whic Planet Index ...... 257 Accommodation in Kuala category. A 5% government acoustics and p Lumpur, Melaka and Penang tax applies to all hotel rooms earplugs. on our Thorn Tree ranges from sky-scraping (including at cheaper hotelsguide At midrange À ve-star hotels to grungy where it is invariably included con is standard backpacker dives that scrape in the quoted rate), and al- typically have T Map Legend ...... 263 the bottom of the barrel. The most all top-end hotels levy proper wardrob travel forum good news is that accom- an additional 10% service private bathroo modation can be refreshingly charge. Credit cards are wide- midrange hotel inexpensive. Outside of public ly accepted at midrange and restaurants, bu holidays (around major festi- top-end hotels; cash payment tres and swimm

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 THIS8379 EDITION8000, fax WRITTEN 03 8379 AND8111 RESEARCHED BY lonelyplanet

Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250Simon 6400, toll free Richmond, 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable Celeste Brash management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

kuala-lumpur-melaka-penang-2_Cover.indd 2 18/03/2011 1:34:03 PM Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

KUALA LUMPUR . . . . .34 PENANG ...... 142 Balik Pulau to Teluk Bahang ...... 177 AROUND GEORGETOWN ...... 147 Teluk Bahang & Around . . 177 KUALA LUMPUR ...... 102 THE REST OF North of Kuala Lumpur . . .102 THE ISLAND ...... 174 Batu Ferringhi ...... 180 Klang Valley ...... 106 Penang Hill ...... 174 Batu Ferringhi to Georgetown ...... 182 South of Kuala Lumpur . . .109 Kek Lok Si Temple ...... 175 Botanical Gardens ...... 175 SEBERANG PERAI ...... 183 MELAKA ...... 113 Pulau Jerejak...... 175 Butterworth ...... 183 MELAKA CITY ...... 114 Snake Temple ...... 175 Pulau Aman ...... 184 AROUND MELAKA ...... 140 Batu Maung ...... 176 Ayer Keroh ...... 140 Kampung Pulau Betong . .176 Pulau Besar ...... 140 Teluk Kumbar & Gertak Alor Gajah ...... 140 Sanggul ...... 176 Tanjung Bidara ...... 141 Balik Pulau ...... 176

21

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

‚ Batu Caves (11km)

#• Kampung Baru

Petronas #•Towers Little India #• Menara KL #•

#• #• Merdeka Square Golden (Dataran Merdeka) Triangle Imbi Lake Market #•Gardens #• #• Chinatown

Brickfields #•

Bangsar Village II #• Mid Valley ‚Megamall (1.5km)

Four Days Essential KL

For a bird’s eye overview of the city take your pick between the skybridge and observa- tion deck of the Petronas Towers or the bulbous head of Menara KL atop the jungle- clad hill Bukit Nanas. Explore Chinatown, dropping by its markets and Hindu and Taoist temples, and admire the colonial buildings around nearby Merdeka Square (Dataran Merdeka). Spend the evening in the Golden Triangle – dig into delicious food along Jln Alor, then sample the nightlife along buzzing Changkat Bukit Bintang. Make the Lake Gardens the focus of day two, not missing KL Bird Park, the Islamic Arts Museum and the National Museum. Sample authentic Indian cuisine in either Brickfi elds or Little India. On day three, having enjoyed breakfast at Imbi Market, venture out to Batu Caves; exploring the cave temples only takes a couple of hours, leaving time the same day to wander the sleepy streets of Kampung Baru back in KL. Set aside day four for some ‘me time’: enjoy some retail therapy in giant shopping malls such as Mid Valley Megamall, or indulge in a luxurious spa treatment at Hamman in Bangsar Village II.

of Bukit Forest Forest China- and the Porta de de Porta , SEA CHINA SOUTH ; and see what’s ; and see what’s riverboat cruise walking tours cent concert hall at fi , which has an excel- and historic near Lake Titiwangsa, Jonker’s Walk Night Walk Jonker’s or the restored grandeur . . Ride the funicular railway , the fabulously ornate clan- . Escape the crowds at Penang National Park National Penang , the magni , starting with , stroll the pathways of the lovely, stroll the pathways Wei-Ling Gallery Wei-Ling or the lush surrounds of the Villa Sentosa , Melaka Penang Hill Penang and #• No Black Tie No , becoming acquainted with the delights Penang Kek Lok Si Temple Kek National Art GalleryNational KUALA LUMPUR . Having prepped your stomach on afternoon . Having Putrajaya

#_ Melaka . Tap into Malaysia’s creative scene by spending a creative scene Malaysia’s into . Tap É . THAILAND É Eastern & Oriental Hotel Sultanate Palace Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Tze Cheong Fatt

) , follow the previous itinerary, adding on a day to head out of adding on a day , follow the previous itinerary, , the the main historic sights, including the ff

KA Museum Heritage Baba-Nonya A

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S range of streetside amazing Penang’s by night trawling , go for broke c Trio c fi Penang (STRAIT Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre Lumpur Performing Kuala . Kuala Lumpur INDONESIA Publika your trip with a few days in in your trip with a few days ff St Paul’s Church St Paul’s , . Georgetown graveyard, with sunset views of the city. Time permitting, enjoy a Time permitting, with sunset views graveyard, of the city. Khoo Kongsi olk House olk

Eco Bike Tour Eco Bike ff , where you’ll

town to view modern architecture the of Starting in Su Use Use Lose at the enormous day yourself for half a Round o its fascinating colonial district and Chinatown, a Unesco World Heritage–protected area. Heritage–protected World its fascinating colonial district and Chinatown, a Unesco be sure to visit the Along the way China Santiago town of Peranakan cuisine. Tick o of Peranakan

The Terri The Two Weeks Two the base of the Petronas Towers, or the jazz venue or the Towers, the base of the Petronas playing at the playing Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) of Malaysia Research Institute galleries, including the major KL’s touring day house or an White Box at tea in the elegant surrounds of the of hawker stalls hawker Market

lent vegetarian on the premises. Alternatively restaurant Botanical Gardens beaches and resorts at to the peak and spend the rest of the afternoon strolling the trails in the cool air. Leave a Leave to the peak and spend the rest of the afternoon strolling the trails in the cool air. to explore including the rest of the island, couple of days

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Coordinating Author, Kuala Lumpur Simon fi rst visited KL, Melaka and Penang in 1996. A lot’s changed in Malaysia since, but the country remains one of Simon’s favourites for its easily accessible blend of cultures, landscapes, adventure and lip-smacking range of cuisines. His favourite experience of this research trip was learning to make the glutinous rice balls onde onde at the culinary retreat Bayan Indah. An award-winning travel writer and photographer, Simon has helmed Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide for the past three editions, as well as a shelf- load of other titles for Lonely Planet and other publishers. Find out more about his work and trav- els at www.simonrichmond.com. Read more about Simon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/simonrichmond Celeste Brash Melaka, Penang Celeste fi rst visited Malaysia while studying at Chiang Mai University, Thailand in 1993 and she later moved to Singapore to teach English. The more of Malaysia she’s visited over the years, the more she’s fallen in love with it. She’s sure Malaysian food is the world’s best and the country seems to get better and better with every visit. She’s contributed to over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks including Travel with Children and her award-winning writing has appeared in publications from the LA Times to Islands Magazine. To see more of her writing go to www.celestebrash.com. Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 2nd edition – June 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 216 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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