OWN OME ERIES by Jane E. Daisey, D H S Contributing Writer

During the year 2000, we’re making our way around , each issue visiting a small town and meeting some of the folks who make up the heart of electric co-op country. On this year’s tenth and final stop, we’ll be... Down Home in ChincoteagueChincoteague This Eastern Shore island offers 66 treasures galore, from delicious Clifton 81 95 seafood to its world-famous penning. Weyers Cave By the early 1900s not only oys- Louisa ters, but clams, crabs and fish Millboro Charlottesville 64 Richmond Lively were also part of the seafood 64 Eagle Rock Eagle Rock industry. Sport fishing provided Millboro Pennington Gap some with work, while others hunted isa Roanoke Lou 460 and marketed wildfowl. Smithfield Smith 95 Smithfield 81 Mt. Lake 85 A Natural for Decoys Pennington The interest in hunting led some locals to Gap 77 earn a good living carving decoys to be used in their expeditions or to be sold to hunt “ f once you have slept on an island you’ll was the main source of income. Northern clubs. Ira Hudson made his mark as a boat never be quite the same.” The residents cities were major markets for the famous builder and decoy carver, becoming one of Iof Chincoteague Island, nestled between Chincoteague oysters, influencing islanders Chincoteague’s most famous artists. His Virginia’s Eastern Shore peninsula on the to vote in 1861 not to secede from the Union. grandson Jay Cherrix says he was a humble west and the barrier island of Assateague on the east, understand the meaning of this quote from Rachel Field’s poem. Surrounded by the sparkling waters of Chincoteague Bay and Assateague channel, the island is home to about 3,500 full-time residents, and thou- sands more visit this resort town annually. Chincoteague boasts a rich history of a resilient people who lived off the land, braved the harsh elements, and became fiercely inde- pendent. Its settlers faced isolation from the mainland, and fierce storms like the 1821 hurricane and tidal wave that crossed to engulf Chincoteague. Hurricanes in 1933 and 1936 also flooded the island. These early hardships strengthened the villagers and created a strong sense of sur- vival and camaraderie that has been passed down through the generations. In 1671 the first white settlers laid claim to

the island, which was used as a livestock JANE DAISEY PHOTOS range for the next century and a half. Jay Cherrix stands in his decoy shop in front of a pony he carved for fun. His unique Villagers made a living farming and raising carvings include shorebirds and fish, and range from primitive working decoys to cattle and sheep. By the mid-1800s seafood refined pieces that resemble modern sculpture. 18 Cooperative Living/November-December 2000 Memorial Park views Assateague The beautiful Christ United Methodist Church was built in 1922 by Italian stone Channel and Island. Its lighthouse, built masons. It is one of six churches on the island. in 1867, stands 142-feet high and is open for tours on selected weekends. In 1920 and again in 1924, Chincoteague suffered man who would be embarrassed to know that disastrous fires that de- his carvings have sold for as much as stroyed several of the largest $80,000. In the early days, he sold them for and most important build- only a few dollars per dozen. ings in the town, as well as Today, Jay and many others earn their many homes. The men income carving decoys that are decorative organized the existing fire only and will never be used for hunting. Jay brigade into a larger and bet- combines the skills of his father, who had ter volunteer fire company. been a boat captain, and his grandfather. He In order to help, the women runs “Tidewater Expeditions,” featuring formed the Ladies Auxiliary morning and evening kayak tours, and a in 1924. At the first meeting, quaint decoy-carving shop called “A Work of they decided to have an Art.” He says he feels blessed to work at annual pony penning, round- Stones bearing the dates 1930 and 1957 mark the something he loves every day of his life, sur- ing up the ponies on Assa- growth of the Chincoteague Fire Department building rounded by the beauty of his home. teague Island and swimming on Main Street. In 1918, native John B. Whealton Jr. pur- sued his dream of building a road to connect the island with the mainland. He formed the Chincoteague Toll Road and Bridge Company and, after years of hard work, the road and its six bridges (including a swing bridge as you reach the island) were opened with much ceremony in November of 1922. The toll has since been removed and the road now bears the name John B. Whealton Jr. Memorial Causeway, in honor of the native son who had the vision to end the island’s iso- lation from its neighbors.

The aging swing bridge crosses the channel as you approach the island and is soon to be replaced by a modern structure. November-December 2000/www.co-opliving.com 19 the community as firefighters, emergency medical personnel, and ambulance drivers. Pete and Ellen Richardson have served together for over 35 years, and say they’ve enjoyed working with and helping their friends and neighbors. Paving the Way for Tourism By 1960 the seafood industry was declin-

CHINCOTEAGUE BEACON CHINCOTEAGUE ing and many of the young people were leav- ing to find jobs elsewhere. Some citizens thought of expanding the small tourist indus- try that existed. Leaders such as Robert N. Reed, Chincoteague mayor from 1949 to 1963, worked tirelessly to gain approval to construct a bridge from Chincoteague to Assateague Island, location of the Chinco- teague National Wildlife Refuge and Assa- teague Island National Seashore. This bridge opened in September of 1962, and literally JENNIFER CORDING PHOTO COURTESYJENNIFER CORDING PHOTO OF paved the way for Chincoteague’s modern The annual pony penning, which has provided funding for the Chincoteague Volunteer tourist industry. Fire Company for years, is eagerly anticipated by locals as one big homecoming. Ralph Daisey and his wife Lois were working at the NASA base on the mainland them across the channel to Chincoteague to through the years. The event is held the last when a co-worker dared him to find some- be sold at auction. Over the years, the fire Wednesday and Thursday in July, with the thing to sell to the tourists, if they came. He department added a carnival to the pony pen- carnival running for that entire week, as well says her words stuck in his mind. They ning activities. In 1946 author Marguerite as every Friday and Saturday in July. It’s a opened PonyTails, the island’s first souvenir Henry came to the island, attended the pony tradition that locals eagerly anticipate. shop in 1965, featuring homemade saltwater penning, and bought a pony for herself. Her Relatives living away come home to enjoy taffy and copper-kettle fudge. The business book Misty of Chincoteague was based on the festivities; it’s like one big homecoming. thrived and they left their jobs with NASA to the experience and became a classic in chil- This year marked the carnival’s 75th anniver- run it full-time. Lois says, “We have tried to dren’s literature. With the release of a movie sary, and a spectacular fireworks display was be a family business in every sense of the version in 1960, the island and its annual held on the last night to celebrate the plat- word, never selling anything in the shop we pony penning became famous. The pony inum anniversary. wouldn’t want sold to our own children or swim and auction, along with the carnival, The volunteer firemen and ladies of the grandchildren. We’ve never been open for has provided all the funding for the auxiliary give generously of their time, ener- business on Sunday; we wanted that day for Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company gy and resources throughout the year serving family activities and church services.”

For conferences, reunions, weddings, etc., contact The Chincoteague Center at P.O. Box 52, Chincoteague, VA If You Go... 23336, phone 757-336-0614, fax 757- 336-0615, or at www.chincoteague.org. Stay at family campgrounds, rental hincoteague Island offers a wide cottages, motels, or bed & breakfasts. A range of accommodations, small sample includes Tom’s Cove C restaurants, and activities to suit Family Campground, with fishing piers, all ages and interests. Make reservations a marina, wooded sites, and a recre- well in advance if you plan to visit dur- ation center and store (757-336-6498), ing the height of the tourist season, from Uncle Joe’s Cabins (757-336-5107), June through Labor Day. Island’s Pride Cottages (757-336-6345), For information and a list of annual Island Motor Inn, an all-waterfront events, festivals, and shows, contact the resort featuring a world-class weight Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce and exercise facility overlooking the by mail at P.O. Box 258, Chincoteague, Bay (757-336-3141), The Refuge Motor VA 23336, by phone at 757-336-6161, Inn (757-336-5511), The Channel Bass or visit their Web site at Inn (1-800-221-5620), and The Watson www.chincoteaguechamber.com. House B&B (1-800-336-6787). 20 Cooperative Living/November-December 2000 Countless other natives opened a myriad of businesses to serve the tourists, adding to the economy, increasing the tax base, and providing youth and adults with jobs. The entrepreneurial spirit is still alive as new and unique ventures continue to start. While some prepared for the future, other citizens worked hard to preserve the island’s past. Eight island women raised money and did extensive research to create the Oyster and Maritime Museum, which opened in 1972, preserving the history of the seafood industry, and that of the Assateague Light- house. A citizens group restored the Wallace Jester Barber Shop, one of the oldest frame commercial buildings in town, and opened it in 1995 as the Chincoteague Island Library. It is operated by volunteers and funded by con- tributions. Today a new generation is serving to improve their home. Mayor Jack Tarr, Town Manager Jim West, and Public Works Town Manager Jim West, Public Works Director Jay W. Jeffries, and Mayor Jack Tarr Director Jay W. Jeffries have lived on the (l to r) all work to improve their native community. island all their lives. Jack owns his own elec- trical contracting business with partner and nity complex was built in 1996, housing the many citizen volunteers, and serves its native Dale Holston. Jim previously served town offices, meeting rooms, and the police community well. as Public Works Director for 10 years. Jay department. It includes a beautiful commu- In spite of tremendous growth and devel- was a teacher at Chincoteague High School nity center, available for rent, with space for opment, Chincoteague Island retains its quaint until his recent appointment with the town. meetings, trade shows, concerts, high beauty, community spirit, and peacefulness. school proms, and graduation ceremonies. Many Improvements Made There is something special about living here, A special source of pride is the recently with the sound of waves lapping at the shore- Jim says the town has made many improved Memorial Park. Situated on the line, the smell of salt in the air, the spectacular improvements in the last 10 years: the road shores of Assateague Channel, it features a sunsets over the water, and the steady rhythm and drainage systems have been vastly fishing pier, boat launch, pavilion, picnic of the lighthouse beam at night. Nine-year-old improved; the Curtis Merritt Harbor has tables and grills, modern playground equip- Lindsay Clark, who describes life on an opened on the south end of the island; and ment, tennis and basketball courts, and a island in the book series Kids in Their the town has its own 911 system that also baseball field. This pristine park is a com- Communities, sums it up when she says, “I serves Assateague Island. A large commu- bined effort of the town government and hope I always live on Chincoteague Island!”

The island is famous for its fresh (757-336-9746) and A.J.’s on the Creek seafood and offers a variety of dining (757-336-5888) are also popular. experiences. Capt. Fish’s Steaming Fun activities for the family include: Wharf is an open-air deck restaurant miniature golf, bike rentals, boat rentals, (757-336-5528). Pony Pines Restaurant ice cream parlors, charter boat fishing, parasailing, cruises around the island, and a movie theatre. Clockwise from top left: 1) Outside the Swim and surf fish at Assateague Island Roxy Theater, a visitor kneels to Island National Seashore. On the way look at Misty’s hoofprints, placed in the to the island, stop at the NASA Visitor cement during the East Coast premiere of Center to enjoy hands-on displays and the movie in 1960. 2) Volunteers Harriet special programs for children. Lonergan and Dorothy Duthy talk with Adults can enjoy antique shops, art visitors at the island library. 3) One of sev- galleries, and a variety of unique shops eral bed and breakfasts on the island, The and museums. Channel Bass Inn is a building with a long Chincoteague National Wildlife history as an inn and restaurant. Refuge offers a visitor’s center, walking 4) The Oyster and Maritime Museum is and biking trails, and year-round bird- home to the historic lens used in the watching opportunities. Assateague lighthouse from 1867 to 1961. November-December 2000/www.co-opliving.com 21